LH3RARY  OF  pRff*C 


JAN  1 8 2012 

THEOLOGICAL  seminary 


G440.M34  M34  1897 
McLean,  Archibald, 
1850-1920. 

Circuit  of  the  globe  : 


T 0 3 7h  w^r  &h 


y ; . . 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/circuitofglobeseOOmcle 


A.  McLEAN. 


A Circuit  of  the  Globe 


A SERIES  OF  LETTERS  OF  TRAVEL  ACROSS 
THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT,  THROUGH  THE 
HAWAIIAN  REPUBLIC,  JAPAN,  CHINA,  THE 
STRAITS  SETTLEMENTS,  BURMA,  INDIA, 
CEYLON,  AUSTRALIA,  EGYPT,  PALESTINE, 
SYRIA,  TURKEY,  GREECE,  ITALY,  SWITZER- 
LAND, GERMANY,  SCANDINAVIA,  FRANCE 
AND  ENGLAND. 


By  A.  McLEAN, 

Corresponding  Secretary  of  the  Foreign  Christian  Missionary  Society. 


\ 


WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION 

By  j.  h.  garrison, 

Editor  of  the  Christian  - Evangelist. 


LIBRARY  OF  PRINCETON 
ILLUSTRATED.  JAM  1 3 2012 

THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY 


ST.  LOUIS: 

CHRISTIAN  PUBLISHING  COMPANY. 
1897. 


Copyrighted,  1897, 


BY 

CHRISTIAN  PUBLISHING  COMPANY. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


A.  McLean,  . . . Frontispiece 

Facing  page 

Facing  page 

Devoid,  Niels, 

356 

Arnold,  T.  J., 

169 

Ewers,  D.  A., 

289 

Adams,  M.  D.,  .... 

240 

Four  Generations  in  China, 

185 

Arab  School,  an,  .... 

309 

Frost,  Miss  Adelaide  G., 

209 

Armenian  School  in  Constantinople, 

321 

Farrar,  Miss  Bessie, 

209 

Armenian  Patriarch, 

329 

Franklin,  Miss  Stella, 

212 

Armenian  Catholicos, 

341 

Franklin,  Miss  Josepha, 

212 

Armenian  Patriarch, 

341 

First  Church  in  Honolulu,  Sandwich 

Bentley,  W.  P.,  and  Family,  Shang- 

Islands, 

216 

hai,  China,  .... 

152 

Faris,  E.  E., 

368 

Boys’  School  in  Chu  Cheo,  China, 

165 

Garvin,  T.  D., 

33 

Butehart,  Dr.,  .... 

169 

Garst,  C.  E., 

57 

Bungalow  in  Hurda,  India, 

197 

Garst,  Mrs.,  and  School, 

Tokyo, 

Beggars  in  Hurda,  India, 

197 

Japan, 

65 

Bungalow  in  Mungeli,  India, 

205 

Guy’s,  Mrs.,  Charity  School, 

Tokyo, 

Bungalow  in  Bina,  India, 

229 

Japan, 

113 

Burgess,  Miss  Mattie,  Bina,  India, 

233 

Garrett,  Mrs.  Frank, 

136 

Baldwin,  Dr.,  ..... 

240 

Garrett,  Frank, 

136 

Boyd,  Miss,  .... 

240 

Graybiel,  Miss  Mary, 

209 

Bungalow  in  Mahoba,  India, 

244 

Girls’  Orphanage,  Bilaspur, 

India, 

221 

Boys’  School  in  Bilaspur,  India, 

248 

Girls’  School  in  Bilaspur, 

India, 

221 

Benares,  India,  .... 

265 

Gordon,  E.  M.,  Mungeli,  India, 

225 

Bardsley,  John,  .... 

289 

Gordon,  Dr.  Anna  M.,  Mungeli,  India, 

225 

Bardsley,  Mrs.  John, 

289 

Great  Mosque,  the,  Delhi, 

India, 

265 

Burford,  ‘Win.,  .... 

289 

Gore,  T.  J.,  . . . 

277 

Brooks,  J.  A.,  London,  Eng., 

365 

Greek  Patriarch, 

341 

Bates,  T.  H.,  Cheltenham,  Eng., 

365 

Gow,  L.  H.,  Southampton, 

Eng., 

365 

Black,  H.  M.,  Liverpool,  Eng., 

365 

Hearnden,  Mrs.  E.  P., 

136 

Biddle,  Dr.  H.  N.,  .... 

368 

Hong- Kong, 

145 

Class  in  English,  Tokyo,  Japan, 

80 

Hearnden,  E.  P., 

169 

Christians  and  Missionaries  in  To- 

Hunt, W.  R.  , . 

169 

kyo,  Japan, 

89 

Hunt,  Mrs., 

169 

Chinese  Mandarin,  .... 

121 

Hospital  in  Bilaspur,  India, 

229 

Chinese  Pagoda, 

128 

Hoick,  Dr.,  and  Family,  Copenhagen, 

Chinese  Priest  Begging, 

128 

Denmark,  . 

361 

Chinese  Gambling, 

176 

Hawk,  Jeu,  and  Family,  Portland, 

Coffman,  G.  W.,  Damoh,  India, 

253 

Ore., 

233 

Colbourne,  J., 

289 

Indian  Prince,  an, 

257 

Coliseum,  The,  .... 

352 

Indian  Maharajah,  an, 

257 

Durand,  Dr.  C.  S., 

200 

Johnson,  Miss  Kate,  Tokyo, 

Japan, 

97 

Davies,  J.  A., 

277 

Judson,  Miss  Hattie, 

200 

Davies,  Mrs.  J.  A., 

277 

Jackson,  Mrs.  H.  L., 

200 

Dunn,  F.  G.,  ..... 

289 

Jerusalem,  . . . . 

312 

Dancing  Dervishes, 

305 

Johnson,  A., 

356 

LIST  OF  ILL  US  TEA  TIOXS 


Facing 

Jain  Priest,  .... 
Kelly,  Mary,  ..... 
Kerr,  Dr.  J.  C.,  Canton,  China,  . 
Kinsey,  Miss  Ida,  Bina,  India, 
Kingsbury,  Miss, 

King  of  Siam  and  Children, 
Kutub-Minar,  Delhi,  India, 
Kevorkian,  Dr.,  Garabed, 

Li  Hung  Chang,  .... 
Lyon,  Miss,  ..... 
Lohr,  Mrs.,  ..... 
Lepers  in  Hurda,  India, 

Leo  Xm., 

Larsen,  K.,  ..... 

Madden,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  M.  B., 

Meigs,  Mrs.  F.  E., 

Memorial  Hospital  in  Nankin,  China, 
Macklin,  Dr.,  Miss  Daisy,  Nankin, 
China,  .... 

Mission  Buildings  in  Nankin,  China, 
Macklin,  Dr.,  .... 

Moll  and,  C.  E., 

Meigs,  F.  E.,  .... 

Macklin,  IBs.,  .... 
MeGavran,  Mrs., 

McGavran,  J.  G., 

Mitchell,  Ben,  Bina,  India, 

Mitchell,  Mrs.  Ben,  Bina,  India, 
Merrill,  Dr.,  .... 

Miller,  Dr.  A.  C.  and  Dr.  Lillian  B., 
Bilaspur,  India, 

Mohammedan  University,  Cairo, 
Maori  Warrior,  .... 
Maori  Chief,  ..... 
Maston,  A.  B.,  .... 

Nilsen,  Enid,  ..... 
Oldham,  Miss,  .... 

Oxer,  Dr.  Rose,  .... 
Orphanage  in  Damoh,  India, 

Pandita  Ramabai,  Poona,  India, 
Preparing  to  Burn  the  Dead, 

Parsee  Girls,  ..... 
Pyramids,  the,  .... 

Parthenon,  the,  .... 


Facing  page 

Rioch,  Miss,  .... 

Robinson's,  Sue  A.,  Grave,  Hurda, 

80 

India,  ..... 

104 

Railway  in  China,  a,  . 

Rioch,  Miss  Mary,  and  Class  of  Girls, 

176 

Tokyo,  Japan, 

192 

Rambo,  Mrs.,  . . . . 

212 

Rambo,  W.  E., 

212 

Rapkin,  Geo.,  Margate,  Eng., 

365 

Rankin,  A.  C.,  . . . 

277 

Stileman,  Lieut., 

33 

Stevens,  Dr.  Nina,  .... 

57 

Stevens,  E.  S., 

57 

Smith's,  Josephine,  Grave, 

Smith’s,  Josephine, Memorial  Chapel, 

104 

Akita,  Japan, 

104 

Saw,  A.  F.  H., 

169 

Saw,  Mrs.,  ..... 

169 

School  Chapel  in  Hurda,  India, 

205 

Spradlin,  Miss  Alice,  . 

209 

Selby,  Isaac, 

277 

Suez  Canal,  .... 

296 

St.  Peter’s,  Rome,  .... 

312 

St.  Sophia,  Constantinople, 

321 

School  in  Constantinople, 

337 

Shishmanian,  Mrs., 

345 

Shishmanian,  G.  N., 

345 

Stockford,  Jesse, 

365 

Taj  Mahal, 

244 

Thompson,  Miss  Mary, 

200 

Temple  in  Southern  India,  . 

272 

Todd,  E.  M.,  Chester,  Eng., 

365 

Verbeck,  Dr.,  .... 

57 

Verco,  Dr.  Joseph,  .... 

277 

Wiriek,  Miss,  .... 

57 

Ware,  James, 

169 

Williams,  E.  T.,  .... 

169 

Williams,  Mrs.,  .... 

Wharton,  G.  W.,  and  his  Helpers, 

169 

India,  .... 

216 

Water  Carrier,  .... 

237 

Wester,  H.  N., 

356 

Xavier,  Francis,  .... 

188 

page 

237 

136 

188 

233 

240 

269 

272 

345 

121 

169 

240 

261 

329 

356 

57 

136 

145 

152 

160 

169 

169 

169 

169 

212 

212 

233 

233 

240 

253 

305 

281 

281 

289 

356 

80 

209 

212 

188 

261 

269 

296 

352 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Introduction  7 

I.  Across  the  Continent  .....  9 

II.  A Plea  for  Missions  in  America  ...  13 

III.  From  San  Francisco  to  Honolulu  . . 17 

IV.  The  Evangelization  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  23 

V.  The  Hawaiian  Islands 29 

VI.  “ The  Isles  Shall  Wait  for  His  Law  ” . 38 

VII.  From  Honolulu  to  Yokohama  ...  43 

VIII.  Japan 50 

IX.  My  First  Sunday  in  Japan  ....  56 

X.  A Trip  to  the  North  of  Japan  ...  63 

XI.  A Week  in  Tokyo 75 

XII.  Missionary  Methods  in  Japan  ...  83 

XIII.  The  Work  of  the  Disciples  of  Christ  in  Japan  90 

XIV.  Christianity  in  Japan 96 

XV.  Trampling  on  the  Cross  . . . 101 

XVI.  Some  Curious  Things  in  Japan  . . . 107 

XVII.  From  Tokyo  to  Kobe 112 

XVIII.  From  Kobe  to  Shanghai 119 

XIX.  A Glimpse  of  Shanghai  ....  124 

XX.  From  Shanghai  to  Nankin  ....  131 

XXI.  Nankin  and  Round  About  ....  137 

XXII.  Chu  Cheo  and  Lu  Hoh  .....  143 

XXIII.  Hankow,  Wuhu,  Nankin  and  Shanghai  . 148 

XXIV.  Peking  and  the  Great  Wall  and  Return  . 154 

XXV.  From  Shanghai  to  Hong  Kong  and  Canton  161 

XXVI.  Christianity  in  China 166 

XXVII.  The  Work  of  the  Disciples  of  Christ  in  China  172 

XXVIII.  Some  Curious  Things  in  China  . . .179 

(5) 


6 


TABLE  OF  COS  TEXTS 


PAGE 

XXIX.  China  and  the  Chinese  ....  186 

XXX.  From  Hong  Kong  to  Calcutta  . . . 193 

XXXI.  India  and  Her  Peoples  ....  201 

XXXII.  Calcutta  and  Serampore 207 

XXXIII.  India  and  Christianity  ....  212 

XXXIV.  The  Work  of  the  Disciples  of  Christ  in  India  217 

XXXV.  Benares 228 

XXXVI.  Cawnpore  and  Lucknow  ....  232 

XXXVII.  Delhi  and  Agra  236 

XXXVIII.  Bombay,  Poona  and  Nellore  . . . 241 

XXXIX.  From  Madras  to  Colombo  ....  245 
XL.  Large  Ingatherings  in  India  . . . 249 

XLI.  Things  Indian 255 

XLII.  From  Ceylon  to  Australia  ....  262 

XLIII.  Adelaide 266 

XLIV.  From  Adelaide  to  Sydney  ....  270 

XLV.  The  Victoria  Missionary  Conference  . .275 

XL VI.  A Brief  Campaign  in  Melbourne  and  Vicinity  280 
XL VII.  From  Melbourne  to  the  Ship  . . . 284 

XLVIII.  Concerning  the  Australian  Churches  . . 288 

XLIX.  From  Adelaide  to  Ismailia  ....  292 

L.  From  Ismailia  to  Alexandria  ....  298 

LI.  From  Alexandria  to  Jaffa  ....  308 

LII.  From  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  and  Return  . . 313 

LIII.  Things  Palestinian 323 

LIV.  From  Jaffa  to  Constantinople  . . . 328 

LV.  Constantinople,  Giol  Dagh  and  Bardezag  332 

LVI.  Missions  in  Turkey 336 

LVII.  Constantinople  and  the  Turks  . . . 342 

LVIII.  From  Constantinople  to  Copenhagen  . . 349 

LIX.  In  Scandinavia 354 

LX.  From  Cohenhagen  to  London  . . . 359 

LXI.  From  London  to  Cincinnati  ^ 364 

LXII.  Some  Impressions — Conclusion  . . . 369 

Index  377 


INTRODUCTION. 


He  who  goes  abroad  to  visit  strange  lands  and  peoples,  and 
comes  in  contact  with  strange  scenes,  customs,  laws  and  lan- 
guages, if  he  but  have  eyes  to  see  and  a mind  to  understand, 
can  tell  many  things  to  interest  and  instruct  those  who  are  denied 
the  privileges  of  such  a journey.  When  the  traveler  who  is  to  tell 
us  the  story  of  his  travels  is  a man  of  cultivated  mind,  enriched  by 
wide  reading,  and  with  a consecrated  heart  and  life,  who  under- 
takes “A  Circuit  of  the  Globe,”  not  from  idle  curiosity,  but  on  a 
high  and  holy  embassy,  connected  with  the  extension  of  Christ’s 
kingdom  in  the  world,  and  as  the  official  representative  of  a great 
missionary  society,  his  report  of  what  he  saw  and  heard,  and  his 
reflections  thereon,  possess  a special  and  peculiar  value.  There  are 
many  globe-trotters  in  these  days  who  go  around  the  world  without 
seeing  or  hearing  anything  that  is  of  any  great  value  to  anybody. 
But  this  volume  is  the  record  of  one  who  had  been  sent  by  his 
brethren  to  investigate  the  problem  of  missions  in  other  lands,  and 
especially  to  note  the  condition,  progress  and  needs  of  our  own 
missions  in  the  Old  World. 

It  was  at  the  national  convention  at  Richmond,  in  1894,  that 
Prof.  B.  C.  Deweese,  at  a proper  place  in  the  proceedings,  pre- 
sented a preamble  and  resolutions  setting  forth  Mr.  McLean’s  long 
and  faithful  service  to  the  society,  his  unstinted  labors  and  sac- 
rifices to  further  its  interests,  his  need  of  a rest,  the  encourage- 
ment that  a visit  from  him  would  impart  to  our  missionaries  in 
foreign  lands,  and  resolving  that  the  society  send  him  on  a visit 
to  our  foreign  mission  stations,  the  details  respecting  time  of 
departure,  duration  of  tour,  etc.,  to  be  left  to  his  discretion  after 
conference  with  the  executive  committee. 

This  preamble  and  resolution  were  received  by  the  Convention 

with  a spontaneous  applause  that  left  no  doubt  as  to  the  sentiment 

(7) 


8 


ISTBODUCTIOX 


of  the  delegates  on  the  subject.  It  was  unanimously  adopted  and 
in  a few  moments  a large  sum  was  raised  to  cover  the  expense  of 
his  journey.  The  journey  was  begun  in  the  following  August  and 
occupied  over  a year. 

During  the  absence  of  Secretaiy  McLean,  the  financial  secre- 
tary, F.  M.  Rains,  who  had  heartily  forwarded  the  movement  to 
send  his  associate  around  the  world,  cheerfully  assumed  the  extra 
work  which  this  arrangement  involved,  and  carried  it  on  with  such 
energy  and  ability  as  to  increase  the  receipts  of  the  society  in  spite 
of  the  bal’d  times. 

The  readers  of  our  various  papers  which  published  these  letters, 
not  only  read  them  as  they  appeared,  with  the  deepest  iuterest,  but 
they  have  demanded  their  publication  in  permanent  form.  This 
demand  was  anticipated  by  the  publishers,  however,  who  requested 
the  Secretary  to  arm  himself  with  a kodak  and  bring  back  some  per- 
manent impressions  of  places  and  persons  he  might  see  in  his  travels. 
Many  of  these,  with  other  pictures,  appear  as  illustrations  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages,  and  form  an  interesting  feature  of  the  book.  The 
faces  of  the  faithful  missionaries  and  the  buildings  in  which  they 
live  and  carry  on  their  work  will  serve  to  strengthen  the  links  that 
bind  these  brave  workers  abroad  to  the  churches  at  home  in  an 
indissoluble  fellowship  of  sacrifice,  of  joy  and  of  triumph. 

It  can  scarcely  be  doubted  that  the  publication  of  this  volume 
of  Missionary  Letters,  written  from  the  field  while  the  author  was 
in  living  contact  with  the  work  and  its  needs,  and  pulsing,  as  they 
do,  with  the  mission  spirit,  will  deepen  the  interest  in  the  cause  of 
missions  among  the  churches,  and  thus  help  to  hasten  the  subju- 
gation of  the  world  to  the  reign  of  Jesus  Christ  our  Lord.  That  it 
may  accomplish  this  beneficent  mission,  while  serving  as  a memorial 
to  our  faithful  and  beloved  Secretary,  when  he  has  finished  his  use- 
ful labors  on  earth,  will  be  the  hope  and  the  prayer  of  all  who  have 
followed  him  in  his  “Circuit  of  the  Globe.” 

J.  H.  Garrison. 

Bose  Hill,  St.  Louis. 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


i. 

ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 

At  the  Annual  Convention  of  the  Foreign  Christian  Missionary 
Society,  held  in  Richmond,  Va.,  in  October,  1894,  it  was  decided 
that  I should  make  a circuit  of  the  globe  in  the  interest  of  world- 
wide missions.  It  was  thought  that  I would  learn  much  about  the 
nature  and  needs  of  the  work  that  I could  never  learn  by  cor- 
respondence ; that  I would  cheer  the  hearts  of  the  workers  on  the 
fields,  and  that  I would  I’eturn  built  up  in  mind  and  in  body,  and 
prepared  for  more  efficient  service.  A handsome  sum  was  raised 
to  defray  expenses. 

The  tour  mapped  out  is  as  follows:  From  Cincinnati  to  San 

Francisco;  thence  to  Japan,  by  way  of  Honolulu;  from  Japan  to 
China,  and  from  China  to  India;  from  India  to  Australia;  thence 
through  the  Indian  Ocean  and  the  Red  Sea  to  Egypt;  thence  to 
Jaffa,  Jerusalem  and  Beirut;  thence  to  Cyprus,  Smyrna,  Constanti- 
nople, and  other  points  in  Turkey;  thence  to  Athens,  Corinth  and 
Rome;  thence  across  Europe  to  Copenhagen  and  several  cities  in 
Norway;  thence  to  Hamburg,  Cologne,  Paris,  London,  Liverpool, 
New  York,  and  home.  I go  to  Australia  because  some  of  the 
churches  there  are  co-operating  with  us  in  India.  They  support 
Miss  Mary  Thompson  and  two  native  helpers.  This  tour  will 
occupy  about  a year,  and  will  cost  about  $2,000. 

Before  starting  on  this  long  journey  good  friends  arranged 
several  receptions.  The  first  was  in  the  Mt.  Healthy  Church,  on 
the  evening  of  July  21,  1895.  This  is  the  church  I served  for  ten 
years.  The  house  was  tastefully  decorated.  Brief  and  eloquent 
addresses  were  made,  appropriate  songs  were  sung,  and  earnest 
prayers  were  offered.  The  memories  of  that  hour  will  go  with  me 
around  the  world;  they  will  abide  with  me  forever.  Mt.  Healthy 
is  noted  as  the  home  of  Alice  and  Phoebe  Cary.  Here  they  were 
born  and  educated,  and  here  they  did  much  of  their  best  work. 


10 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


The  trees  they  planted,  the  well  from  which  they  drank,  the  house 
in  which  they  lived,  are  objects  of  interest  to  their  innumerable 
admirers.  At  the  edge  of  the  village  David  S.  Burnet  had  once  a 
famous  school  for  girls.  There  he  and  Benjamin  Franklin  lived 
and  published  The  Reformer  and  The  Christian  Age.  The  Mt. 
Healthy  Church  is  first  and  last  and  always  a missionary  church. 
The  good  people  of  this  place  have  found  by  actual  experience  that 
there  is  that  which  scattereth  and  yet  increaseth.  The  name  of 
this  church  is  known  in  every  field  and  by  every  missionary.  Iu  the 
corner-stone  of  the  building  there  is  one  thing,  and  only  one, 
namely,  a Bibie.  This  church  stands  for  Biblical  Christianity. 
On  the  next  Sunday  evening  the  churches  in  and  about  Cincinnati 
abandoned  their  regular  services.  A thousand  people  assembled. 
Some  came  from  quite  a distance.  The  exercises  throughout,  the 
songs,  the  Scripture  lesson,  the  prayers  and  the  talks  were  pre- 
eminently missionary.  The  great  commission  was  emphasized,  the 
workers  were  tenderly  and  lovingly  remembered,  some  of  the  diffi- 
culties and  needs  of  the  work  set  forth.  No  one  went  away  with- 
out a better  knowledge  of  missions  and  a deeper  interest  in  the 
missionaries.  Cincinnati  has  been  intimately  connected  with  our 
missionary  work  from  the  beginning.  Here  the  American  Chris- 
tian Missionary  Society  was  organized.  The  Foreign  Society  was 
located  here  because  Isaac  Errett,  W.  T.  Moore,  W.  S.  Dickinson, 
Jacob  Burnet,  James  Leslie  and  Dr.  E.  Williams  lived  here. 
Here,  too,  was  the  home  of  the  Christian  Standard.  Its  editor 
had  been  Corresponding  Secretary  of  the  American  Society  for  four 
years.  Nearly  every  number  contained  some  missionary  informa- 
tion. The  editor  made  his  appeals  to  the  hearts  and  consciences  of 
his  readers,  and  his  appeals  were  not  in  vain.  On  Monday  H.  M- 
Hickok  gave  a farewell  banquet.  He  invited  the  leading  spirits  in 
our  missionary  societies  and  in  our  journalism  and  some  personal 
friends  to  meet  him  at  the  Grand  Hotel.  Twenty  guests  sat  down 
with  him.  After  partaking  of  the  good  things  provided,  some 
admirable  speeches  were  made.  It  was  a delightful  occasion.  The 
spirit  of  the  Lord  was  present.  The  cause  of  missions  was  helped 
by  this  banquet. 

On  Wednesday  morning  a group  of  personal  friends  came  down 
to  the  station  to  see  me  off.  E.  E.  Faris,  the  bright  young  Texan, 
who  goes  to  Africa  as  our  pioneer,  was  my  traveling  companion  that 
day.  On  reaching  St.  Louis  we  found  a number  of  friends  on  the 
platform  waiting  for  us.  That  night  the  churches  gave  up  their 
prayer- meetings  and  came  together  to  manifest  their  interest  in 


ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT 


11 


world-wide  missions.  After  an  hour’s  service  in  the  auditorium, 
we  adjourned  to  the  parlors  for  social  intercourse  and  for  refresh- 
ments. Nothing  was  left  undone  to  make  the  stranger  feel  at  home. 
To  the  Disciples  of  Christ  St.  Louis  is  an  interesting  city.  Here 
the  Christian-Evangelist  is  published.  Here  W.  W.  Dowling  edits 
Our  Young  Folks  and  the  Sunday-school  supplies  sent  out  by  the 
Christian  Publishing  Company.  Here  is  the  Christian  Orphans’ 
Home.  Here  Mrs.  J.  C.  Black,  the  superintendent  of  Children’s 
Work  in  connection  with  the  Woman’s  Board,  lives.  Here  O.  A. 
Bartholomew  carries  on  his  work.  In  seven  years  he  has  built 
seven  churches  in  St.  Louis,  and  many  others  in  different  parts  of 
the  country.  From  this  city,  Dr.  A.  W.  Hitt  and  Miss  Sue  A. 
Robinson  went  to  India. 

The  next  morning  I left  St.  Louis  for  Kansas  City.  E.  S.  and  G. 
W.  Muckley  and  Judge  Clarke  came  down  to  the  depot  to  meet  me. 
They  refreshed  my  spirit.  I was  hungry  and  they  fed  me.  While 
talking  about  the  work  in  that  city  and  other  places  the  time  passed 
rapidly.  Kansas  City  is  the  seat  of  the  Missouri  Board  of  Missions. 
Here,  too,  the  Board  of  Church  Extension  has  its  principal  place  of 
business.  Here  G.  W.  Muckley  has  his  home.  From  this  city  he 
goes  out  to  inform  the  churches  about  the  work  and  to  bring  back 
their  contributions  to  its  support.  The  next  stop  was  made  at  Den- 
ver, the  Queen  City  of  the  Plains.  At  its  gates  W.  S.  Priest  was 
waiting  to  extend  a cordial  welcome.  That  night  the  churches, 
with  their  ministers,  met  in  the  South  Broadway  Temple  to  speak 
words  of  good  cheer  and  to  listen  to  a brief  account  of  the  progress 
of  the  work.  J.  W.  Ingram,  W.  S.  Priest,  Judge  Barnum  and  Mel- 
ville Putnam  spoke  for  the  churches  and  spoke  hopefully  and 
impressively.  Denver  has  suffered  greatly  from  the  panic.  Thou- 
sands are  out  of  employment.  Many  of  those  who  had  saved 
something  in  other  years  have  had  to  live  on  their  earnings,  and 
now  have  nothing.  The  churches  are  making  heroic  struggles  to 
meet  their  obligations  and  to  help  in  the  regions  beyond.  With  the 
return  of  better  times  the  debts  will  be  paid,  new  churches  will  be 
established,  and  thousands  will  be  given  to  help  the  work  in  other 
fields.  The  hard  times  are  not  without  their  advantages.  They 
consolidate  the  membership  and  drive  them  closer  to  God.  Let  the 
good  men  in  Denver  take  heart  and  hope  and  hold  on  until  the  day 
dawns  and  the  mists  and  shadows  flee  away.  The  night  is  far  spent, 
the  day  is  at  hand. 

From  Denver  to  Salt  Lake  City  is  a distance  of  seven  hundred 
and  sixteen  miles.  The  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railway  is  the 


12 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


scenic  line  of  the  world.  For  several  hours  Pike’s  Peak  is  clearly 
seen  in  the  distance.  This  giant  lifts  his  snowy  head  over  fourteen 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  There  is  no  more  mag- 
nificent scenery  in  the  Alps  or  the  Himalayas  than  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  Denver  is  a mile  above  the  sea.  The  highest  point  on 
the  road  is  nearly  a mile  above  Denver.  The  train  is  scheduled  to 
make  the  distance  between  Denver  and  Salt  Lake  City  in  twenty- 
nine  hours.  B.  F.  Clay  was  on  the  platform  waiting  for  me,  and 
drove  me  to  the  parsonage,  where  Mrs.  Clay  and  Master  Sam 
repeated  the  welcome.  That  night  I spoke  to  a large  audience  in 
the  Endeavor  Church.  The  building  is  convenient  and  beautiful. 
A ride  of  eight  hundred  and  seventy-one  miles  through  Utah, 
Nevada  and  California,  brings  the  traveler  to  the  city  beside  the 
Golden  Gate.  Galen  Wood  preaches  in  Ogden.  J.  E.  Denton 
preaches  in  Sacramento.  I undex’stand  that  there  is  no  church 
between  these  two  cities  on  the  Central  Pacific  Railway.  In  San 
Francisco  I spent  some  time  in  the  hospitable  home  of  H.  H.  Luse. 
No  missionary  passes  through  San  Francisco  without  being  enter- 
tained by  this  family.  E.  W.  Mathews,  editor  of  the  Pacific  Chris- 
tian, went  with  me  to  Santa  Cruz  to  attend  the  State  meeting.  No 
Secretary  ever  had  a more  royal  welcome.  Nothing  was  lacking  to 
make  my  visit  pleasant  and  effective.  The  large  audience  listened 
intently  for  an  hour.  At  the  close  of  the  service  they  gave  irue  the 
right  hand  of  fellowship  and  sent  me  away  with  their  prayers  and 
good  wishes.  Nor  was  that  all.  At  the  suggestion  of  A.  C.  Smither, 
they  made  a generous  offering  toward  the  expenses  of  my  long  jour- 
ney. This  was  the  culmination  of  a series  of  ovations,  beginning  in 
Boston  and  extending  across  the  continent.  This  afternoon  I go 
aboard  the  City  of  Peking  and  sail  out  through  the  Golden  Gate 
toward  Honolulu.  Now,  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ  himself  and  God 
our  Father,  who  loved  us  and  gave  us  eternal  comfort  and  good 
hope  through  grace,  comfort  our  hearts  and  establish  us  in  every 
good  word  and  work. 


A PLEA  FOR  MISSIONS  IN  AMERICA. 


Years  ago,  so  the  story  runs,  a band  of  skeptics  crossed  the  Mis- 
sissippi near  where  St.  Louis  now  stands;  they  sang  unclean  songs; 
they  drank  wine  and  beer,  and  vowed  that  Jesus  Christ  should 
never  cross  that  river.  If  one  will  start  from  St.  Louis  and  go 
west  till  he  reaches  the  Golden  Gate,  he  will  see  and  know  that 
Jesus  Christ  has  crossed  the  Mississippi.  Or  if  he  will  go  south 
through  Arkansas  and  Texas  and  Arizona  and  New  Mexico,  or 
north  through  Iowa,  Minnesota,  Dakota,  Montana,  Washington, 
he  will  see  indubitable  evidences  all  the  way  that  our  Lord  is 
trusted  and  served  in  all  this  western  country.  On  the  crest  of 
the  Rockies  and  the  Sierras,  and  in  the  fertile  valleys  between, 
wherever  two  or  three  are  gathered  together,  there  He  is  in  the 
midst.  Christian  people  are  going  everywhere;  churches,  schools, 
and  Christian  institutions  of  all  kinds  follow.  No  power  can 
exclude  Christ  and  the  Gospel.  Japan  and  China  and  India  tried 
to  do  that,  and  failed.  As  well  try  to  keep  out  the  sunshine  and 
the  dew;  as  well  try  to  keep  out  the  sweet  influences  of  spring 
and  summer.  Skeptics  may  join  hearts  and  hands  in  such  an 
attempt;  He  that  sits  in  the  heaven  shall  laugh.  The  West  no 
less  than  the  East  belongs  to  Christ,  and  he  shall  have  it. 

Let  no  one  think  that  everything  has  been  done.  The  fact  is, 
there  remaineth  much  land  yet  to  be  possessed.  Here  and  there 
forts  have  been  established,  but  the  victory  is  far  from  being  com- 
plete. The  saloon  is  omnipresent.  Beer  cars  are  seen  in  every 
train.  Gambling  runs  riot.  Many  who  were  active  in  the  churches 
at  home  have  lost  their  faith,  and  are  in  haste  to  get  rich.  What 
then?  Those  who  have  the  truth  must  carry  it  everywhere,  and  fill 
all  hearts  and  homes  and  institutions  with  its  spirit.  Everything 
opposed  to  Christ  must  give  place,  as  the  wolf  and  the  bear  give 
place  to  civilization.  In  order  to  do  this,  the  churches  must  arouse 
themselves  and  put  forth  such  efforts  as  have  never  been  witnessed. 
For  be  it  known  that  the  powers  of  darkness  are  mustering  and 
marshaling  themselves  for  the  conflict;  they  are  entrenching  them- 
selves in  the  great  West.  The  strong  man  armed  keeps  his  house 

13 


14 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


and  his  goods;  one  stronger  than  he  must  come  and  bind  the  strong 
man  and  take  away  the  armor  wherein  he  trusted,  and  spoil  his 
goods.  This  is  a critical  period  in  the  history  of  the  West,  for  it  is 
a formative  period. 

Great  populations  are  pouring  in.  The  nation  gains  more  from 
immigration  than  from  all  her  mines  of  gold  and  silver.  Capable, 
energetic  and  ambitious  men  come  here  to  better  their  condition. 
In  1835  there  were  not  5,000  white  inhabitants  in  all  the  vast  region 
between  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Pacific.  Now  there  are  in  this  ter- 
ritory Chicago,  Milwaukee,  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis.  In  1840 
Chicago  had  a population  of  4,500;  now  it  has  1,438,000.  In 
1834  there  were  two  log  houses  where  Milwaukee  now  stands;  the 
present  population  numbers  204,000.  In  1842  a trading  house  was 
built  ou  the  site  of  St.  Paul.  A small  community  of  whites  and 
half-breeds  engaged  in  barter  with  the  Indians  and  trappers.  In 
1850  St.  Paul  was  in  the  wilderness;  wild  animals  and  Indians 
haunted  the  grounds  about  it.  St.  Paul  has  now  133,000  people 
within  her  borders,  and  Minneapolis  has  164,000.  In  1870  Duluth 
was  laid  out  ou  speculation  in  the  woods.  Duluth  is  now  “the 
zenith  city  of  the  unsalted  seas,’’  and  has  a population  of  33,000. 
San  Francisco  in  1844  had  a population  of  fifty  souls;  now  she  has 
300,000.  Kansas  City,  Denver,  Seattle,  Tacoma  and  Portland  have 
grown  in  the  same  way.  The  time  to  reach  these  immigrants  is  on 
their  arrival.  They  are  then  free  to  listen  to  the  plea  we  make. 
In  ten  years  it  will  be  tenfold  more  difficult  to  reach  aud  win  them. 

We  hear  of  “the  wild  and  woolly  West.”  In  a ride  of  two 
thousand  miles  I did  not  see  one  prairie  dog,  or  one  jackrabbit,  or 
one  coyote,  and  only  a score  or  two  of  Indians.  The  Wrest  is 
neither  wild  nor  woolly.  The  people  are  as  intelligent  and  enter- 
prising as  in  the  East.  Some  one  said  to  Knowles  Shaw  that  the 
people  of  the  West  were  “the  scum.”  He  said  they  are  like  the 
scum  that  rises  on  milk.  The  papers  of  San  Francisco,  Salt  Lake 
and  Denver  contain  all  the  news  found  in  the  great  dailies  of 
Chicago  and  New  York.  San  Francisco  in  many  respects  reminds 
one  of  Boston.  The  streets  are  wider,  and  are  not  suffering  from 
curvature  of  the  spine.  But  the  schools,  and  churches,  and  shops, 
and  homes,  and  sidewalks,  and  street  cars  are  not  much,  if  any, 
behind  those  of  “the  Hub  of  the  Universe.”  There  is  poverty  and 
there  is  vice  ou  the  Pacific  Coast,  but  these  things  are  found  on  the 
Atlantic  Seaboard  as  well.  Preachei’s  say  it  is  hai’der  to  build  up 
churches  in  the  West  than  in  the  East.  The  spirit  of  the  men  who 
ci’ossed  the  plains  in  1849  is  still  hei’e.  The  people  want  wealth, 


A PLEA  FOE  MISSIOXS  IX  AMERICA 


15 


and  they  want  it  at  once.  Solomon  said.  “If  the  axe  is  dull,  one 
must  put  forth  more  strength.”  So  if  it  is  harder  to  make  con- 
verts and  build  up  self-supporting  churches,  wre  must  work  the 
harder.  At  Reno,  Nevada,  we  saw  a few  Indians.  They  were 
dressed  and  acted  like  white  folks.  Some  were  smoking  cigars  or 
cigarettes,  thus  showing  that  they  are  bone  of  our  bone  and  flesh  of 
our  flesh.  Of  the  300,000  Indians  of  the  West,  66,000  pay  taxes. 
The  noble  savage,  so-called,  is  cultivating  the  arts  of  peace.  He 
has  been  created  anew  in  Christ  Jesus. 

One  who  has  not  traveled  over  this  country  has  only  a faint  con- 
ception of  its  extent  and  resources.  Texas  alone  is  considerably 
larger  than  the  German  Empire,  California  is  larger  than  Turkey, 
Oregon  is  larger  than  England  and  Scotland  and  Wales.  I have 
traveled  from  ocean  to  ocean,  and  from  the  lakes  to  the  gulf.  The 
more  I travel  the  vaster  the  country  appeal’s.  There  is  room 
in  this  magnificent  domain  for  a thousand  millions  of  people. 
Then  our  population  will  not  be  as  dense  as  that  of  Britain.  The 
Gospel  must  be  carried  into  every  city  and  hamlet  of  this  broad 
land.  Wherever  the  beer  keg  can  go  the  Bible  must  go.  If  the 
Bible  could  go  in  advance  and  keep  out  the  accursed  thing  forever 
it  would  be  better.  Wherever  men  go  to  mine  gold  or  silver  or 
copper,  or  to  raise  corn  or  wheat  or  fruit,  or  to  engage  in  any  form 
of  work,  there  the  ministers  of  the  Gospel  must  go  and  preach  the 
unsearchable  riches  of  Christ.  It  will  avail  nothing  that  we  have 
three-fourths  of  all  the  coal  in  the  world  within  our  borders,  that 
we  have  wide  and  fertile  fields,  that  we  raise  more  hogs  and  cattle 
than  any  other  nation,  that  in  manufactures  and  mechanical  appli- 
ances we  lead  the  world,  that  we  are  the  richest  of  nations,  if  we 
are  not  a righteous  people,  and  if  our  God  is  not  the  Lord.  Let  us 
know  and  remember  that  it  is  righteousness  that  exalteth  a nation. 

We  are  well  able  to  do  the  work  which  the  Lord  requires  of  us. 
We  must  plan  and  work  on  a larger  scale  than  in  former  years. 
We  must  spend  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  where  we  have 
been  spending  tens  and  fifties.  There  are  mines  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  with  machinery  that  cost  a million  dollars.  See  what 
vast  sums  have  been  invested  in  railroads!  Capitalists  pour  out 
money  like  water.  They  spend  any  amount  in  the  sure  and  certain 
hope  of  profits  in  the  years  to  come.  We  must  go  at  this  work  as 
men  go  into  great  business  ventures.  We  must  capture  the  great 
cities.  What  has  been  done  in  Kansas  City,  in  Des  Moines,  in  St. 
Louis,  can  be  done  anywhere.  It  can  be  done  in  Chicago,  in  New 
York,  in  New  Orleans,  in  Boston,  in  Cincinnati,  in  Indianapolis. 


16 


A CIBCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Greater  triumphs  can  be  won  if  we  will  do  our  whole  duty.  God 
says  of  each  of  these  great  centers  of  population,  as  he  did  of 
Corinth,  “I  have  much  people  in  this  city.”  We  cannot  do  the 
Lord’s  work  without  a very  much  larger  expenditure  of  money  and 
a much  lai'ger  evangelistic  staff  than  we  have  thus  far  dared  to 
even  dream  about.  In  Salt  Lake  City  our  people  were  offered  a lot 
in  a most  desirable  section  if  they  would  erect  a building  upon  it. 
They  could  not  accept  the  offer.  There  are  hundreds  of  such 
opportunities  in  the  new  and  growing  West.  We  ought  to  be 
ready  to  seize  every  one.  We  are  playing  at  this  work;  we  are 
trifling  with  a great  trust.  We  need  to  hear  the  voice  of  God  like 
a tire-bell  at  midnight,  “Awake,  thou  that  sleepest,  and  arise  from 
the  dead,  and  Christ  shall  give  thee  light.” 

There  is  not  only  room  for  the  Disciples  of  Christ,  but  there  is 
urgent  need  of  them.  Our  growth  in  Missouri  shows  this.  The 
fact  that  we  have  increased  in  fifty  years  from  almost  nothing  to 
130,000  amounts  to  a demonstration.  The  great  churches  in 
Mexico,  Columbia,  Sedalia,  Warrensburg,  Holden,  Harrison ville, 
St.  Joseph,  Liberty,  Lexington,  Springfield,  Kansas  City,  Topeka, 
Salina,  Denver,  Salt  Lake  City,  Sacramento,  Oakland,  Los  Angeles 
and  San  Francisco,  could  not  have  been  called  into  existence  if  we 
had  no  vital  truths  for  this  generation.  While  recognizing  all  the 
good  there  is  in  other  communions,  we  must  hold  to  our  conviction 
that  in  some  important  matters  they  are  at  sea  in  a fog.  It  is  for 
us  to  publish  the  truth  which  God  has  revealed  to  us  till  all  shall 
see  it.  It  is  high  time  for  us  to  understand  what  God  would  have 
us  do.  We  must  make  the  spread  of  the  Gospel  of  the  glory  of 
Christ  our  first  and  supreme  concern.  This  is  a time  for  heroic 
giving.  It  is  a time  for  men  to  go  out  without  purse  or  scrip  or 
two  coats,  assured  that  God  will  supply  their  need  accoi’ding  to  his 
riches  of  glory.  If  we  do  this  we  shall  have  such  a measure  of 
prosperity  at  home  as  shall  cause  the  scoffer  to  say,  “God  is  in 
these  people  of  a truth.”  The  churches  thus  planted  and  watered 
will  be  missionary  from  the  first,  and  will  do  their  utmost  to  send 
the  Gospel  into  all  the  ends  of  the  earth.  The  Lord  help  us  to  see 
our  duty  and  to  perform  it. 


III. 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  HONOLULU. 

On  the  third  of  August,  at  three  p.m.,  the  City  of  Peking  left  her 
dock  for  Hong-Kong.  She  is  to  touch  at  Honolulu,  Yokohama, 
and  Nagasaki,  on  the  way.  Honolulu  is  2,100  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco; Yokohama  is  3,478  from  Honolulu.  As  we  steamed  down 
the  Bay  and  saw  the  enormous  docks  and  the  number  of  ships  going 
in  all  directions,  and  saw  the  crowded  city  stretching  away  for 
miles,  it  seemed  incredible  that  half  a century  ago  San  Francisco 
was  a village  of  fifty  people  living  in  log  huts  and  bartering  food 
and  clothing  for  tallow,  hides  and  horns.  San  Francisco  is  now  one 
of  the  great  cities  of  the  world.  What  New  York  is  to  the  East, 
that  San  Francisco  is  bound  to  be  to  the  West.  S.he  must  always 
be  the  chief  port  of  entry  to  the  commerce  of  the  Pacific.  In  an 
hour  and  a half  we  were  beyond  the  Golden  Gate  and  the  Seal 
Rocks.  Here  the  pilot  left  us,  and  we  felt  that  our  voyage  was 
fairly  begun.  Gradually  the  land  faded  from  our  sight.  There 
was  a tinge  of  sadness  in  this  thought.  It  was  like  leaving  home 
for  the  first  time.  America  now  leads  all  nations.  What  she  is 
now  is  nothing  compared  with  what  she  shall  be.  Her  welfare 
means  the  welfare  of  the  world.  “ Blessings  brighten  as  they  take 
their  flight.”  So  our  country  seems  more  and  dearer  as  we  leave 
it  for  a season. 

“Great  God,  we  thank  thee  for  this  land, 

This  bounteous  birthland  of  the  free ; 

Where  peoples- from  afar  may  come 
And  breathe  the  air  of  i liberty. 

“Still  may  her  flowers  untrampled  spring, 

Her  harvests  wave,  her  cities  rise ; 

And  yet,  till  Time  shall  fold  his  wing, 

Remain  earth’s  loveliest  paradise.” 

Before  we  left  the  dock  a group  of  people  sang  “All  Hail  the 
Power  of  Jesus’  Name”  and  “God  be  With  You  Till  We  Meet 
Again.”  It  was  plain  that  there  were  missionaries  on  board. 
Probably  no  ship  leaves  this  port  for  the  Orient  without  having 
some  missionaries  among  her  passengers.  God  is  thrusting  out 
young  men  and  women  of  culture  and  consecration  into  his  harvest. 

2 17 


18 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


As  the  spiritual  life  of  the  churches  is  deepened,  workers  will  go 
out  in  ever-increasing  numbers.  H.  H.  Luse  and  Jeu  Hawk  came 
down  to  bid  me  farewell.  The  first  represented  the  Occident;  the 
second,  the  Orient.  The  first  was  born  in  Pennsylvania;  came 
West  and  settled  in  Oregon,  and  afterwards  removed  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. Jeu  Hawk  was  won  to  Christ  by  Miss  Sue  A.  Robinson,  one 
of  our  missionaries  to  India.  He  was  educated  in  Drake,  and  now 
is  in  charge  of  the  Chinese  Mission  in  Portland.  The  San  Fran- 
cisco workers  were  at  Santa  Cruz,  else  a large  number  would  have 
been  on  the  dock.  I thought  then  of  the  great  host  of  Disciples  of 
Christ  who  are  interested  in  this  trip,  and  who  assured  me  that 
they  would  pray  for  me,  and  I was  comforted.  May  their  prayers 
bring  down  blessings  upon  their  own  heads,  like  rain  upon  the 
mown  grass  and  like  the  showers  that  water  the  earth. 

Our  ship  was  built  in  1874.  She  was  a fast  boat  in  her  time.  She 
makes  three  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  a day,  burning  seventy 
tons  of  coal.  The  greyhounds  of  the  Atlantic  consume  over  four 
hundred  tons  and  cover  five  hundred  miles.  The  officers  are 
Americans;  the  crew  is  made  up  of  Chinese  and  Japanese.  The 
officers  are  gentlemanly  fellows.  They  give  civil  answers  to 
proper  questions.  They  take  an  interest  in  the  passengers,  and 
try  to  make  them  feel  at  ease.  The  chief  steward,  Mr.  W.  S. 
Chandler,  was  especially  kind.  I crossed  the  Atlantic  twice, 
and  found  the  bearing  of  the  officers  there  very  different.  Civility 
adds  much  to  one’s  comfort.  On  the  train  as  we  passed  through 
Nevada,  I asked  a Pullman  official  how  many  large  places  there 
were  between  Ogden  and  Sacramento.  He  drew  himself  up  and 
said  with  crushing  force,  “If  I were  to  enumerate  all  the  large 
places  between  Ogden  and  Sacramento,  I would  not  have  time  for 
much  else  to-day.”  As  there  is  not  one  large  place  between  the 
points  named,  something  I discovered  after,  it  would  not  have  taken 
his  lordship  long  to  give  me  the  information  I sought.  As  it  was,  1 
wilted  and  said  no  more.  Not  only  this  ship,  but  the  entire  fleet 
is  manned  with  Orientals.  One  of  the  officers  spoke  of  the  crew  in 
high  praise.  They  are  polite,  sober,  willing  and  efficient. 

We  have  few  passengers,  less  than  twenty  in  the  cabin,  and  not 
over  fifty  in  the  steerage.  This  is  more  enjoyable  to  the  passengers 
than  profitable  to  the  company.  Our  ship  will  carry  a hundred 
cabin  passengers  and  a thousand  steerage.  With  a small  list  every 
one  can  have  a state-room.  At  table  one  receives  more  attention. 
On  deck  there  is  ample  space  to  walk  and  sit.  The  passengers  are 
pleasant  people.  One  is  an  officer  in  the  German  Army.  One  lives 


FROM  SAX  FRANCISCO  TO  HONOLULU 


19 


in  Honolulu,  and  is  full  of  information  respecting  the  islands.  Sev- 
eral represent  large  business  houses.  The  missionaries  interest  me 
most.  Three  of  these  four  are  women.  It  is  a significant  fact  that 
more  women  are  offering  than  men.  Robert  Oust  says  we  shall 
soon  have  to  change  Wellington’s  famous  order  and  say,  “ Up 
ladies,  and  at  them.”  Mrs.  Nevius  goes  to  Chefoo.  She  has  been 
in  China  forty  years.  Her  illustrious  husband  died  recently.  She 
is  going  back  home.  A medical  missionary  is  going  out  for  the  first 
time.  She  goes  to  Chinkiang.  One  of  the  group  has  been  in  Japan 
six  years.  She  and  her  parents  had  been  traveling  extensively  in 
the  East.  She  became  interested  in  missions  and  remained  in 
Japan.  She  is  now  on  her  way  back  after  a year’s  furlough.  An 
ordained  minister  is  going  to  Amoy.  They  are  the  happiest  people 
on  board.  Their  faces  shine.  They  have  heard  the  jo}Tul  sound, 
“ Jesus  saves.”  They  are  going  out  to  publish  glad  tidings.  Their 
faces  illustrate  their  message,  and  commend  it  to  the  sad-hearted 
peoples  of  the  East.  There  is  no  suggestion  of  the  ascetic  or  the 
Pharisee  about  them.  They  are  as  full  of  mirth  and  as  ready  for 
any  innocent  games  as  any  on  board.  The  ladies  wear  no  jewelry, 
dress  very  simply,  and  look  remarkably  attractive.  Dr.  Groodell,of 
the  Turkish  mission,  was  one  of  the  happiest  of  men.  His  asso- 
ciate rebuked  him  for  his  mirth,  and  asked  him  if  he  expected  to 
enter  heaven  laughing.  He  said  he  would  rather  enter  heaven 
laughing  than  crying.  He  was  incorrigible.  There  was  no  more  to 
be  said.  Missionaries  have  obeyed  the  Lord’s  command,  and  they 
have  entered  into  his  joy. — There  are  some  Chinese  passengers  in 
the  cabin.  The  women  wear  bloomers  and  smoke  cigarettes.  Are 
these  the  harbingers  of  the  coming  woman?  Their  dress  may  be 
more  comfortable,  but  to  the  eye  of  an  amateur  is  less  comely  than 
the  present  style.  There  is  one  thing  lacking  in  our  list.  There  is 
not  a bride  on  board.  The  captain  states  that  he  has  had  twenty- 
one  in  a single  voyage.  The  raw  material  is  here,  but  not  the 
sweet,  finished  article.  This  is  quite  a loss.  A bridal  party  on  a 
train  or  on  a boat  is  as  good  as  a play.  The  fact  that  there  should 
be  a superabundance  of  brides  on  one  voyage,  and  none  on  the  next, 
constrains  one  to  believe  with  John  Calvin  in  total  depravity. 

The  Chinese  passengers  in  the  steerage  are  not  without  interest. 
They  play  cards  and  dice  early  and  late.  The  Chinese  are  a race  of 
gamblers.  They  stake  their  money  as  long  as  it  lasts.  When  it  is 
gone  they  stake  themselves  or  their  children.  Rice  is  their  princi- 
pal article  of  food.  The  way  they  shovel  the  rice  into  their  mouths 
with  their  chopsticks  is  a marvel  to  the  uninitiated.  In  addition  to 


20 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


rice  they  eat  dried  fish,  fresh  and  salt  meat,  and  vegetables.  They 
have  a common  bowl  containing  some  liquid  resembling  vinegar. 
Into  this  they  dip  their  meat  or  vegetables,  as  the  disciples  did  at 
the  last  supper.  This  is  to  make  their  food  palatable.  Their  diet 
does  not  seem  very  inviting,  but  it  makes  great,  brawny  and  athletic 
fellows.  There  is  no  cabin  passenger,  notwithstanding  all  the 
savory  food  and  all  the  delicacies  served  to  him,  that  can  compare 
with  some  of  these  Chinese  in  muscular  development.  So  life  has 
its  compensations.  The  rich  have  more  than  heart  can  wish  for, 
and  dyspepsia  besides.  The  poor  have  little,  but  they  have  good 
appetites  and  superb  digestion.  In  point  of  comfort,  the  upper 
class  has  not  much  advantage  over  the  lower. 

On  board  ship  we  have  every  comfort  and  every  convenience  that 
we  could  have  on  shore.  The  state-rooms  are  spacious,  and  are 
supplied  with  everything  needed.  They  are  lighted  with  electricity. 
Every  day  you  can  have  a bath  in  salt  water.  Pow  Sing  will  call  you 
at  any  hour  you  may  wish.  The  table  is  excellent.  The  bill  of  fare 
must  have  been  designed  for  epicures.  Meats  and  vegetables  and 
fruits  and  milk  are  kept  in  huge  ice-chests.  Fowls  and  sheep  are 
kept  on  deck  waiting  their  doom.  No  one  need  go  hungry.  The 
first  evening  the  chief  steward  explained  the  arrangement  for 
meals.  You  can  have  coffee  in  your  room  when  you  wish  it. 
Breakfast  is  served  at  half-past  eight;  tiffin  at  one;  dinner  at  seven. 
If  you  should  feel  famished  between  breakfast  and  tiffin,  or  between 
tiffin  and  dinner,  or  before  turning  in  for  the  night,  you  can  have 
tea  and  cake  and  fruit.  The  cooks  are  artists.  They  would  do 
credit  to  any  hotel.  The  service  cannot  be  excelled.  The  “boy,” 
Ah  Hee  by  name,  is  intelligent  and  obliging.  In  his  soft  slippers  he 
moves  as  noiselessly  and  as  swiftly  as  a cat.  He  anticipates  your 
wish  and  hastens  to  supply  it.  He  does  not  address  you  as  “ Sir  ” 
or  as  “ Boss.”  He  offers  you  the  bill  of  fare,  and  inclines  his  ear. 

When  the  voyage  began  I thought  I would  get  out  of  it  all  I 
could.  I proposed  to  play  high  jinks  at  sea.  The  first  morning  I 
touched  an  electric  button  with  my  toe,  and  Ah  Sam,  a bright-faced 
Celestial,  with  a queue  reaching  down  to  his  heels,  appeared.  I 
ordered  coffee.  In  the  twinkling  of  an  eye  it  was  before  me.  Hav- 
ing partaken,  I turned  over  like  a door  on  its  hinges,  and  fell 
asleep.  An  hour  later  another  Celestial  appeared  and  announced 
that  the  bath  was  ready.  I felt  conscience-smitten  at  first,  but  soon 
became  reconciled  to  it.  The  “boy”  was  paid  for  this  service. 
Besides,  he  was  so  affable  and  acted  as  if  he  were  receiving  a favor 
rather  than  conferring  one,  that  conscience'  soon  ceased  to  smite. 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  HONOLULU 


21 


After  three  or  four  days,  however,  I found  that  this  arrangement 
was  not  satisfactory.  Heretofore,  when  urged  to  eat  more  than 
three  times  a day  I have  pleaded  the  statute  of  limitations.  I found 
it  expedient  to  return  to  the  old  order.  Capacity  for  eating  is 
like  capacity  for  singing  or  speaking.  It  is  a gift;  it  cannot  be 
acquired.  Coming  down  the  Sierras  a girl  of  spme  thirty  sum- 
mers sat  opposite  me  at  the  table.  She  began  with  a drink 
that  to  an  innocent  prohibitionist  looked  suspiciously  like  a 
cocktail.  Then  she  had  a bottle  of  Apollinaris  water,  then  a 
pot  of  tea,  meanwhile  drinking  several  glasses  of  ice-water.  She 
ordered  and  inclosed  a breakfast  such  as  would  have  satisfied  Sam- 
son or  Goliath,  or  both.  She  read  while  eating,  to  improve  her  mind. 
When  she  was  done  she  wiped  her  tapering  fingers  and  her  rosy  lips, 
and  looked  as  if  she  had  been  sipping  nectar  and  tasting  ambrosia. 
An  omnivorous  girl  amuses  me.  Such  an  appetite  here  would  be 
a treasure. 

Life  on  a ship  is  a lazy  life.  There  is  nothing  to  do,  and  all  day 
and  all  night  in  which  to  do  it.  Carlyle  said  that  every  man  is  as 
lazy  as  he  dare  be.  Who  has  not  found  it  so?  The  first  few  days 
one  chafes  a good  deal.  The  demon  of  work  still  possesses  hiun 
When  Charles  Lamb  was  retired  on  a pension  he  did  not  know  what 
to  do  with  himself.  His  desk  and  his  soul  had  grown  together.  He 
wanted  to  be  back  again.  So  one  feels  for  a time.  I work  eight 
hours  a day,  and  am  getting  a reputation  for  industry.  But  eight 
hours  compared  with  the  hours  I worked  for  twelve  years  are  child’s 
play.  Sometimes  I long  to  be  back  in  the  Mission  Rooms,  sharing 
in  the  work  and  in  the  joy.  But  my  prophetic  soul  tells  me  that  I 
shall  soon  feel  like  joining  the  society  spoken  of  by  Ian  MacLaren, 
“The  Amalgamated  Sons  of  Rest — a society  with  conscientious 
objections  to  work  between  meals.”  We  get  no  letters  and  no 
papers,  we  know  nothing  and  care  little  about  what  is  going  on  in 
the  great  world.  This  is  a season  for  rest  and  for  storing  energy. 
After  it  is  over  one  will  feel  like  a race  horse.  He  will  enter  upon 
his  work  rejoicing  in  it,  as  a strong  man  to  run  a race. 

Birds  have  followed  us  all  the  way.  Where  do  they  build  their 
nests?  How  do  they  live?  They  sow  not,  neither  do  they  reap,  nor 
gather  into  barns;  God  feedeth  them.  He  will  care  for  us.  We 
are  as  safe  on  sea  as  on  shore.  There  are  watchful  eyes  in  every 
part  of  the  ship  day  and  night.  If  a fire  should  break  out  it  can  be 
extinguished.  Twice  a week  there  is  fire  practice.  In  case  of  a 
storm  the  ship  would  ride  the  waves  like  a duck.  In  case  of  a 


92 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


wreck  there  are  boats  enough  to  carry  all  on  board.  We  lie  down 
at  night  and  sleep  feeling  as  secure  as  if  we  were  at  home. 

In  1888  I crossed  the  Atlantic  twice.  The  days  and  nights  were 
cold.  Passengers  sat  on  deck  wrapped  in  heavy  rugs.  They  wore 
their  winter  clothing.  We  have  had  warm  weather  from  the  first. 
There  has  been  fno  need  of  an  overcoat  or  of  a rug.  One  can  sit 
on  deck  for  hours  and  watch  the  play  of  the  waves  and  listen  to 
their  music.  Their  glory  and  beauty  remind  one  of  the  words, 
“The  sea  is  his,  and  he  made  it.”  On  the  Atlantic  you  see  ships 
every  day.  We  have  seen  one  only  since  we  left.  What  does  that 
mean?  This,  that  the  bulk  of  the  commerce  of  the  world  belongs 
to  Christian  nations.  As  China  and  Japan  receive  the  Gospel,  the 
Pacific  will  be  covered  with  ships  as  is  the  Atlantic. 

On  Friday  night  we  dropped  anchor  before  Honolulu,  and  waited 
for  the  day.  We  have  had  a delightful  passage.  There  has  been 
no  fog,  no  storm,  and  no  sickness.  On  Monday  the  screw  lost  one 
of  its  blades.  This  accident  broke  up  the  monotony  and  was  a 
positive  refreshment.  The  captain  and  engineer  decided  to  go  on. 
By  using  all  the  sails  we  have  made  as  good  progress  with  three 
blades  as  otherwise  we  would  have  made  with  four.  One  passenger, 
evidently  a son  of  Belial,  insists  that  the  accident  was  because  of 
the  psalm-singing  before  leaving  the  dock.  Whatever  the  cause, 
we  have  lost  no  time  and  are  nearing  port  with  thankful  hearts. 
God  is  good.  He  has  given  us  a prosperous  voyage.  He  has 
answered  the  prayer  we  offered  when  starting,  “ Keep  us,  Lord, 
for  the  ocean  is  so  wide,  and  our  boat  is  so  small.”  Blessed  be  his 
glorious  name  forever,  and  let  the  whole  earth  be  filled  with  his 
glory ! 


IV. 


THE  EVANGELIZATION  OF  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS. 

In  1809  a native  of  these  Islands  sat  on  the  doorsteps  of  Yale 
College  and  wept.  His  name  was  Henry  Obookiah.  In  a civil  war 
his  father  and  mother  had  been  slain;  he  had  been  taken  prisoner. 
Escaping,  he  made  his  way  to  New  Haven.  He  thirsted  for  knowl- 
edge, and  went  to  the  college  buildings  hoping  that  his  thirst  might 
be  slaked.  Hope  failing,  he  sat  down  and  wept.  A resident  grad- 
uate found  him  and  took  him  as  a pupil.  That  autumn  Samuel  J. 
Mills  visited  New  Haven  to  awaken  an  interest  in  missions.  Oboo- 
kiah told  him  his  story.  “The  people  are  very  bad;  they  pray  to 
gods  made  of  wood.”  He  longed  to  be  able  to  read  the  Bible  that 
he  might  go  back  and  teach  them  to  pray  to  God  up  in  heaven. 
Mills  wrote  Gordon  Hall,  “What  does  this  mean?  Bro.  Hall,  do 
you  understand  it?  Shall  he  be  sent  unsupported  to  reclaim  his 
countrymen?  Shall  we  not  rather  consider  these  Southern  Islands 
a proper  place  for  the  establishment  of  a mission?”  Other 
Hawaiian  lads  came  to  America,  and  after  their  conversion  wished 
to  go  back  and  preach  Christ  to  their  own  people.  Obookiah  did 
not  live  to  publish  the  glad  tidings  in  his  own  land.  He  died 
before  completing  his  college  course.  A sketch  of  his  life  was  pub- 
lished. It  created  a profound  and  widespread  interest.  It  called 
foi’th  legacies  from  the  dying,  tears,  prayers  and  donations  from 
the  living.  Two  years  later  the  American  Board  sent  a band  of 
missionaries  to  evangelize  these  Islands.  In  the  band  there  were 
three  Hawaiians  and  seven  Americans  and  their  wives.  They 
sailed  in  the  brig  “Thaddeus.”  * 

The  ten  Islands  of  this  group  have  an  area  of  a little  less  than 
Massachusetts.  The  people  were  in  the  lowest  depths  of  bar- 
barism. They  were  a race  of  thieves,  gamblers  and  drunkards. 
Children  wore  no  clothing;  men  and  women  almost  none.  The 
king  visited  the  missionaries  on  board  ship.  He  wore  a narrow 
scarf  about  his  waist,  a silk  scarf  thrown  over  his  shoulders,  a 
string  of  beads  around  his  neck,  and  a wreath  of  feathers  around 

* See  “The  Hawaiian  Islands.”  by  Anderson;  “The  Hawaiian  Mission,”  by 
Bartlett  and  Hyde,  for  further  information. 

23 


24 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


his  head.  Polygamy  and  polyandry  were  prevalent.  A man  could 
marry  as  many  wives  as  he  could  feed;  he  could  turn  them  adrift 
at  pleasure.  A woman  could  have  as  many  husbands  as  she  chose: 
she  could  turn  them  off  and  take  others.  The  king  had  five  wives. 
Each  one  had  her  day  of  service,  when  she  followed  her  lord  with  a 
spit-dish  and  a fly-brush.  Parents  prostituted  their  daughters,  and 
husbands  their  wives  for  gain.  Two-thirds  of  the  children  were 
either  strangled  or  buried  alive.  Aged  parents  were  buried  alive, 
or  left  to  die  of  neglect.  Maniacs  were  stoned.  Captives  were 
tortured  and  slain.  Government  and  religion  were  oppressive. 
There  was  no  law  but  the  will  of  the  chief.  The  people  were  ruled 
with  a rod  of  iron.  They  had  no  rights  that  the  chiefs  were  bound 
to  respect.  The  land  and  all  its  products  and  the  people  belonged 
to  the  rulers.  It  was  a crime  punished  with  death  for  a common 
man  to  let  his  shadow  fall  on  a chief,  or  for  a woman  to  eat  Avith 
her  husband,  or  to  eat  fowl,  pork,  cocoanut,  or  banana.  When  a 
chief  died  the  people  knocked  out  their  front  teeth,  shaved  their 
heads,  burned  themselves,  broke  through  all  restraints,  and  prac- 
ticed all  manner  of  crime,  as  if  it  A\rere  a virtue.  All  ages  and  both 
sexes  gave  scope  to  the  vilest  passions,  of  self-torture,  robbery, 
licentiousness  and  murder.  Whatever  the  priest  wanted  for  the 
god — food,  a house,  land,  or  human  sacrifice — must  be  forth- 
coming. When  the  people  built  a temple,  some  of  them  were 
offered  in  sacrifice  at  its  dedication.  It  was  among  such  people 
that  the  missionaries  were  to  live  and  Avork.  So  dark  was  the  pros- 
pect that  a clergyman  said  to  them  before  sailing,  “Probably  none 
of  you  will  live  to  see  the  downfall  of  idolatry.”  But  God  is 
better  than  our  fears,  better  than  our  hopes  even. 

After  a voyage  of  five  months  the  missionaries  caught  a glimpse 
of  Hawaii.  In  a few  hours  a boat  put  off  and  soon  returned. 
One  of  the  native  workers  was  seen  swinging  his  hat  in  the  air  and 
heard  shouting,  “The  idols  are  no  more.”  He  learned  that  the  old 
king  Avas  dead,  and  that  his  son  succeeded  him;  that  the  images  of 
the  gods  Avere  all  burned ; that  the  men  ate  with  the  Avomen ; that 
but  one  chief  Avas  killed  in  settling  the  affairs  of  the  government, 
and  he  for  refusing  to  destroy  his  gods.  The  missionaries  wrote, 
“Sing,  O heavens,  for  the  Lord  hath  done  it.”  What  was  pre- 
dicted they  should  not  live  to  see  Avas  done  before  their  arrival. 
Surely  God  had  anticipated  them  Avith  the  blessing  of  goodness.  A 
council  of  chiefs  Avas  called  to  decide  whether  they  should  be 
allowed  to  remain.  The  king,  seeing  that  the  strangers  had  one 
wife  each,  objected  that  if  he  received  them  he  Avould  have  to 


THE  EVANGELIZATION  OF  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


25 


content  himself  with  one.  Some  foreigners  did  not  want  them 
to  stay.  They  said:  “They  have  come  to  conquer  the  Islands.” 

The  chiefs  replied:  “In  that  case  they  would  not  have  brought 

their  women.”  The  decision  was  favorable.  Not  only  the  king, 
but  the  high  priest  threw  his  weight  into  the  scale.  The  missiona- 
ries began  work  at  once.  The  king  and  the  chiefs  were  the  first 
pupils.  In  three  months  the  king  could  read  English;  in  six 
months  several  chiefs  could  both  read  and  write.  The  first  convert 
was  the  king’s  mother.  She  was  the  daughter  of  a race  of  kings, 
the  wife  of  a king,  and  mother  of  two  kings.  Her  person  was 
sacred.  There  were  times  when  no  one  might  see  her.  When  she 
walked  abroad  at  the  close  of  day,  whoever  saw  her  fell  prostrate 
to  the  earth.  Several  of  the  high  chiefs  followed  her  example. 
Within  five  years  after  the  missionaries  landed  it  was  decided  to 
recognize  the  Lord’s  day,  and  to  adopt  the  Ten  Commandments  as 
the  basis  of  government.  It  was  made  unlawful  for  women  to  visit 
ships  for  immoral  purposes.  In  eight  years  the  converts  numbered 
fifty,  and  the  Sunday-school  scholars  26,000.  The  workers  made 
repeated  tours  of  the  Islands,  and  pressed  home  the  claims  of  the 
Gospel.  The  effect  was  wonderful.  The  natives  came  in  compa- 
nies to  inquire  what  they  should  do  to  be  saved.  Ten  or  twenty 
would  be  in  the  mission  house  conferring  with  the  missionary,  and 
as  many  more  would  be  outside  waiting  their  turn.  The  inquirers 
numbered  2,500.  They  were  kept  waiting  for  a year,  and  then 
admitted  to  the  church  only  on  the  strictest  examination.  So 
inviting  was  this  field  that  the  American  Board  sent  out  thirty-two 
new  workers,  male  and  female,  making  a total  staff  of  sixty-four. 
Scarcely  had  they  reached  the  field  when  one  of  the  most  remarka- 
ble awakenings  in  the  history  of  the  Church  began.  The  congrega- 
tions were  immense.  They  numbered  from  four  to  six  thousand. 
Men  preached  from  seven  to  thirty  times  a week.  There  were 
conversions  at  almost  every  service.  From  1838  to  1843  there 
were  27,000  admitted  to  the  churches.  The  next  twenty  years  there 
were  over  20,000,  making  the  whole  number  added  about  50,000. 
In  a little  book  entitled  JEshcol,  the  story  is  told  of  the  work 
of  Titus  Coan.  He  labored  at  Hilo.  His  parish  was  from  one  to 
three  miles  wide,  and  a hundred  miles  long.  He  had  15,000  people 
in  his  charge.  They  were  vicious,  sensual,  and  shameless,  living 
like  wild  animals.  Under  his  preaching  nearly  the  whole  popula- 
tion turned  out  to  hear  the  Word.  The  sick  and  lame  Avere 
brought  on  litters,  or  on  the  backs  of  men;  the  infirm  crawled  to 
the  trail  where  the  man  of  God  was  to  pass,  that  they  might  catch 


26 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


some  word  of  life.  The  interest  deepened.  It  was  found  that  the 
missionary  could  not  go  to  the  people;  so  they  came  to  him.  Two- 
thirds  of  the  entire  population  left  their  homes  and  built  their 
cabins  near  the  mission  house.  The  village  of  Hilo  saw  its  popula- 
tion of  one  thousand  increase  to  ten  thousand.  For  two  years  this 
camp-meeting  lasted.  There  were  meetings  daily  for  prayer  and 
preaching.  Mr.  Coan  once  preached  three  times  before  breakfast. 
Often  he  had  no  leisure;  no,  not  so  much  as  to  eat.  In  twelve 
months  he  admitted  5,000  to  the  church.  Among  these  were  men 
and  women  who  had  been  idolaters,  unclean,  robbers,  sorcerers, 
thieves  and  drunkards.  In  his  ministry  he  had  12,000  conversions. 
As  many  people  can  read  in  that  district  in  proportion  to  the 
whole  population  as  in  Illinois,  and  the  Lord’s  day  is  better 
observed  than  in  New  England.  The  institutions  of  civilization 
have  taken  the  place  of  the  old  savage  life.  These  people  were  not 
content  with  having  the  Gospel ; they  wanted  to  send  it  to  those 
who  had  it  not.  They  have  sent  workers  to  the  Marquesan,  to  the 
Marshall,  and  to  the  Gilbert  Islands.  In  1870,  when  the  American 
Board  withdrew  from  this  field  and  left  the  churches  to  maintain 
and  to  manage  the  work,  it  was  reported  that  the  natives  gave 
$30,000  that  year  for  Christian  objects;  thirty  per  cent  of  their 
ministers  were  foreign  missionaries;  twenty-two  per  cent  of 
their  contributions  were  for  the  foreign  field.  Their  church  build- 
ings are  worth  $250,000.  Such  is  an  outline  of  what  forty  ordained 
workers,  their  wives,  and  their  lay  helpers,  under  the  blessing  of 
God,  accomplished  in  fifty  years.  Had  Obookiah  been  alive  he 
would  have  said,  “Behold,  what  hath  God  wrought!  ” He  would 
have  seen  Honolulu,  once  a village  of  grass  huts,  a substantial 
city' ; a race  of  once  naked  savages  clothed  and  in  their  right  mind; 
a nation  of  readers,  whereas  he  left  them  without  an  alphabet; 
Christian  marriage  instead  of  polygamy  and  polyandry;  property 
secure  everywhere,  whereas  once  it  was  safe  nowhere;  hundreds  of 
churches  and  common  schools;  two  female  seminaries;  a normal 
and  a high  school;  a theological  seminary;  twenty-nine  native 
preachers,  beside  eighteen  male  and  female  missionaries;  some 
20,000  living  church  members,  and  a government  with  a settled 
constitution,  a legislature,  and  courts  of  justice. 

Are  no  deductions  to  be  made?  Yes.  The  converts  are  not  all 
just  men  made  perfect.  They  do  not  rank  as  high  as  do  the  people 
in  the  United  States.  It  would  not  be  reasonable  to  expect  that 
people  removed  only  one  generation  from  barbarism  would  show 
the  stability,  the  culture,  the  moral  excellence  of  those  who  have 


THE  EVANGELIZATION  OF  THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


had  the  Gospel  for  a thousand  years.  It  would  be  fairer  to  com- 
pare them  with  the  churches  in  the  apostolic  age.  Here  as  there 
the  tares  grew  among  the  wheat.  In  Corinth  a crime  was  com- 
mitted that  was  unknown  among  the  heathen.  Yet  this  very 
church  was  enriched  in  all  utterance  and  knowledge  so  that  it  came 
behind  in  no  gift.  In  Hawaii  there  were  those  who  were  living 
epistles  known  and  read  of  all  men.  They  were  the  joy  and  crown 
of  the  workei’s.  If  some  were  babes  when  they  ought  to  be  full 
grown  men,  and  if  some  apostatized,  we  need  not  marvel.  Such 
things  have  happened  before  and  will  again.  Besides,  it  should 
be  borne  in  mind  that  these  people  have  been  exposed  to  peculiar 
temptations.  During  the  whaling  season  the  foreign  population 
equals  one-half  the  population  of  Honolulu.  Their  influences  are 
not  good.  Before  the  Gospel  came  women  swam  out  to  the  ships. 
When  the  missionaries  interfered,  they  imperiled  their  own  lives. 
The  house  of  Mr.  Richards  was  twice  assailed  by  men  from  English 
and  American  ships.  They  threatened  to  destroy  the  property  and 
to  take  the  lives  of  the  missionaries  if  the  laws  interfering  with 
their  lustful  indulgence  were  not  abrogated.  Had  it  not  been  for 
the  natives  they  would  have  executed  their  threats.  The  popula- 
tion of  the  Islands  is  declining.  Before  the  missionaries  came, 
war,  infanticide  and  licentiousness  cut  down  the  people  as  the 
reaper  cuts  down  grass.  Since  then  drink,  measles,  small-pox, 
leprosy,  and  vile  diseases  introduced  by  seamen,  have  increased 
the  mortality.  The  use  of  clothing  has  had  its  disadvantages. 
The  natives  dressed  heavily  and  then  undressed  and  sat  in  the 
draft  and  took  cold.  Cold  developed  into  rheumatism  and  con- 
sumption. When  they  drank  they  drank  to  excess.  A savage  peo- 
ple know  nothing  of  moderation.  At  one  time  the  king  and  the 
people  formed  a great  temperance  society;  what  was  drunk  on  the 
Islands  was  for  the  most  part  by  foreigners.  There  is  cause  for  sad- 
ness in  the  thought  that  the  Hawaiian  people  are  dying  out.  But 
the  work  done  among  them  was  not  in  vain.  Thousands  were  born 
into  the  kingdom.  A whole  race  was  uplifted  and  ennobled.  The 
missionaries  established  free  schools  in  every  district.  They  gave 
the  people  a literature  in  their  own  tongue.  Children  were  taught 
to  read,  write,  sing  by  note;  they  were  taught  arithmetic,  grammar 
and  geography.  They  were  given  the  open  Bible,  the  Magna 
Charta  of  all  our  liberties,  the  source  of  all  our  blessings.  If  the 
nation  should  cease  to  exist,  the  work  done  has  been  worth  many 
times  what  it  cost.  From  first  to  last,  about  a million  dollars  was 
spent  on  this  mission.  That  would  not  pay  for  one-fourth  of  an 


28 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


iron-clad.  It  would  not  defray  its  current  expenses  for  a year.  It 
is  a paltry  sum  when  eternal  issues  are  at  stake.  The  Indians  near 
Boston  and  near  Philadelphia  perished;  but  the  labors  of  John 
Eliot  and  David  Brainei’d  were  not  in  vain.  The  chui’ches  that 
Paul  planted  on  his  missionary  toui’s  have  disappeared,  but  he  did 
not  live  and  die  to  no  pui-pose.  God  has  been  honored  and  obeyed. 
The  power  of  the  Gospel  was  demonstrated  when  demonstration 
was  needed.  A good  work  was  done.  One  competent  witness 
said:  “The  deeper  I pushed  my  inquiries,  the  stronger  became  my 

conviction  that  what  had  been  on  your  part  necessai-ily  an  experi- 
mental work  in  modern  missions,  had,  under  God,  proved  an  emi- 
nent success.  Every  sunrise  brought  me  new  reasons  for  admiring 
the  power  of  divine  grace,  which  can  lift  the  poor  out  of  the  dust 
and  set  him  among  princes.”  He  found  the  Bible  in  almost  every 
hut;  prayer  a popular  habit,  and  the  Lord’s  day  more  strictly 
observed  than  in  New  York.  Richard  Heni'y  Dana  states  that  in 
no  place  in  the  world  were  the  rules  which  control  vice  and  regu- 
late amusement  so  strict.  They  are  reasonably  and  fairly  enforced. 
He  found  no  hut  without  its  Bible  and  hymn  book  in  the  native 
tongue;  and  the  practice  of  family  prayer  and  gi’ace  before  meat, 
though  it  be  no  more  than  a calabash  of  poi  and  a few  dried  fish, 
and,  whether  at  home  or  on  a journey,  as  common  as  in  New 
England  a century  ago.  Dr.  A.  P.  Peabody  said:  “Fifty  years 

ago  the  half-reasoning  elephant  or  the  tractable  and  troth-keeping 
dog  might  have  seemed  the  peer  or  more  of  the  unreasoning  and 
conscienceless  Hawaiian.  From  that  very  race,  from  that  very 
generation  with  which  the  nobler  brutes  might  have  scorned  to 
claim  kindred,  have  been  developed  the  peel’s  of  saints  and  angels.” 
This  is  the  Lord’s  doing,  and  it  is  marvelous  in  our  eyes. 


y. 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS. 

Our  ship  reached  her  moorings  in  Honolulu  on  Saturday  morn- 
ing, August  10th.  We  remained  thei*e  three  days  for  repairs.  T. 
D.  Garvin  came  on  board  and  invited  me  to  his  home.  W.  C. 
Weedon  was  on  the  pier  to  repeat  the  welcome  already  extended. 
Mrs.  Garvin  had  a hot  breakfast  waiting.  She  knows  the  direct 
route  to  the  heart.  Miss  Wirick  had  arrived  on  the  Belgic  the 
night  before,  and  was  domiciled  with  the  Garvins.  She  was  on  her 
way  from  Tokyo  to  Des  Moines.  Miss  Harrison  and  Miss  Beard 
and  the  gentlemen  who  are  members  of  the  preacher’s  family 
showed  me  much  kindness.  This  brief  stay  enabled  me  to  see  the 
place  and  the  people,  and  to  learn  some  things  that  otherwise  I 
should  never  know. 

The  Hawaiian  Islands  lie  between  the  Tropic  of  Cancer  and  the 
Equator.  They  extend  from  northwest  to  southeast  a distance  of 
three  hundred  and  eighty  miles.  They  are  in  the  track  of  com- 
merce between  the  United  States  and  Australasia,  and  Panama  and 
China.  They  are  now,  and  must  continue  to  be,  an  important  com- 
mercial center.  They  are  not  a group,  it  has  been  said,  but  a string 
of  islands,  or  rather  a string  of  pearls  in  the  sapphire  center  of  the 
great  American  seas.  They  are  of  volcanic  origin.  They  contain 
many  extinct  craters,  while  on  one  island  there  are  two  craters  still 
active.  On  the  Island  of  Maui  there  is  the  largest  extinct  crater  in 
the  world.  The  mountain  is  ten  thousand  and  thirty  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  crater  is  twenty  miles  in  circumference  and  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  feet  deep.  London  and  New  York  could  both  be 
placed  in  it.  The  Island  of  Hawaii  has  the  two  largest  active  vol- 
canoes on  the  globe.  One  is  as  high  as  Pike’s  Peak.  Oahu  is  the 
most  important  Island,  since  it  contains  the  capital,  Honolulu,  and 
possesses  the  best  harbor.  Hawaii  is  much  the  largest,  and  gives 
its  name  to  the  group.  Though  the  Islands  are  within  the  tropics, 
the  weather  is  mild.  The  average  temperature  for  the  year  is  74°. 
The  average  of  the  coldest  months  is  69°,  the  average  of  the  warm- 
est is  78°.  The  trade  winds  and  ocean  currents  moderate  the  heat. 
The  weather  consists  of  sunshine  and  breezes. 

29 


30 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Captain  Cook  discovered  and  brought  these  Islands  into  connec- 
tion with  the  rest  of  the  world  in  1778.  He  called  them  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  after  his  patron,  the  Earl  of  Sandwich,  but  the  official 
name  is  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  Cook  left  goats  and  pigs  and  seeds 
of  melons,  pumpkins  and  onions  with  the  natives.  He  left,  too, 
diseases  unknown  before,  which  spread  and  caused  misery  and 
death.  For  a time  Cook  was  worshiped  as  a god.  Pigs  were  offered 
and  prayers  were  recited  to  him.  He  was  installed  as  an  incarna- 
tion of  the  god  Lono.  He  moved  among  them  as  an  earthly  deity, 
observed,  feared  and  worshiped.  His  men  were  looked  upon  as 
supernatural  beings.  The  messengers  sent  to  the  other  islands  said: 
“The  men  are  white;  their  skin  is  loose  and  folding;  their  heads 
are  angular;  fire  and  smoke  issue  out  of  their  mouths;  they  have 
openings  in  the  sides  of  their  bodies  into  which  they  thrust  their 
hands,  and  draw  out  iron,  beads,  nails  and  other  treasures;  and 
their  speech  is  unintelligible.”  On  his  second  visit  Cook  was  killed. 
The  natives  grew  weary  of  the  conduct  of  his  crews.  Quarrels 
arose  and  several  perished.  George  Vancouver,  a captain  of  the 
British  navy,  visited  the  Islands  three  times,  in  1792,  in  1793,  and  in 
1794.  He  introduced  orange  trees  and  grape  vines  and  cows  and 
sheep.  He  refused  to  sell  firearms  or  ammunition.  He  wras  a friend 
of  the  natives,  and  his  name  is  held  by  them  in  grateful  and  loving 
remembrance.  Horses  were  introduced  by  Captain  Cleveland  in 
1803.  Some  of  the  men  that  visited  the  Islands  were  kind  and  cour- 
teous and  did  what  they  could  to  uplift  and  ennoble  the  natives. 
The  most  were  not  so.  They  debased  and  debauched  them;  they 
outraged  and  robbed  and  shot  them  without  cause.  The  king  that 
was  on  the  throne  in  Cook’s  time  and  Vancouver’s  time  put  an  end 
to  petty  wars  and  feudal  anarchy  and  consolidated  the  Islands  under 
one  government,  and  thus  prepared  them  in  part  for  Christianity 
and  civilization. 

The  first  missionaries  landed  in  1820.  Some  Botany  Bay  convicts 
had  pi’eceded  them  and  circulated  all  sorts  of  evil  reports  about 
them.  It  was  a question  whether  they  would  be  allowed  to  remain. 
God  decided  the  issue  in  their  favor.  It  was  not  long  till  the  term 
missionary  became  one  of  honor.  If  a man  was  decent  and  paid  his 
debts  quarterly  he  was  set  down  as  a missionary,  though  he  might 
have  no  more  to  do  with  the  spread  of  the  Gospel  than  Claus 
Spreckles  has  to-day.  The  missionaries  found  the  idols  abolished. 
But  although  idolatry  was  formally  and  legally  done  away,  its 
superstitions  were  destined  to  survive  for  generations  to  come,  and 
to  blend  with  and  color  their  conceptions  of  Christianity.  In  the 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


31 


first  group  of  missionaries  there  were  two  clergymen,  five  laymen 
and  their  wives,  and  three  natives  that  had  been  educated  in 
America.  The  names  of  the  clergymen  were  Hiram  Bingham  and 
Asa  Thurston.  To  some  the  whole  enterprise  seemed  the  very  acme 
of  folly.  A ship  owner  said:  “These  women  are  fools.  They 

cannot  live  there,  and  will,  everyone  of  them,  be  back  within  a year, 
and  I have  given  my  captains  orders  to  give  them  their  passages 
whenever  they  apply.”  He  had  more  of  the  milk  of  human  kindness 
in  him  than  faith.  These  women  were  neither  fools  nor  cowards. 
They  did  live  there,  and  many  of  them  died  there.  The  first  ser- 
mon was  preached  April  25,  1820,  by  Mr.  Bingham,  from  the  text: 
“ Fear  not,  for  behold  I bring  you  good  tidings  of  great  joy.”  The 
first  church  was  built  the  next  year.  It  was  a thatched  house.  In 
course  of  time  a second  was  built  on  the  same  site.  It  was  of 
thatch  and  seated  2,000.  Some  years  later  a large  stone  building 
was  erected.  The  stones  were  carried  for  about  a mile  on  the 
shoulders  of  the  men.  Trees  were  cut  on  the  mountains  and 
dragged  to  the  sea  and  floated  around  to  Honolulu.  This  house 
still  stands.  A slab  of  marble  in  memory  of  Mr.  Bingham  states 
that  he  preached  there  for  twenty  years,  taught  confiding  kings  and 
queens  and  chiefs,  faced  dangers,  bore  calumny  from  abroad,  aided 
in  reducing  the  language  to  writing,  translated  the  most  of  the 
Bible,  composed  books,  hymns  and  tunes,  baptized  a thousand  con- 
verts, planned  this  edifice,  and  with  his  loving  people,  on  June  8, 
1839,  laid  the  adjoining  corner-stone,  beneath  which  was  placed  a 
Hawaiian  Bible,  which  was  first  published  May  10,  1839.  From 
here,  amid  loud  wailings  of  many  of  his  flock,  he  sailed  on  August 
3,  1840,  to  visit  his  native  land;  but  never  returning  was  not  with 
them  when  on  July  12, 1842,  with  joyful  acclamations  they  thus  dedi- 
cated this  church  to  Jehovah  our  God  for  ever  and  ever.  More 
than  once  his  life  was  in  peril.  A drunken  sailor  brandishing  his 
knife  said,  “You  are  the  man  every  day.”  Another  aimed  a blow 
at  him  with  an  ugly  club.  His  pupils  interfered  and  saved  his  life. 
He  had  interfered  with  their  passions  and  lusts;  that  was  the  head 
and  front  of  his  offending.  The  first  printing  was  done  in  1822. 
The  first  marriage  was  solemnized  the  same  year.  The  relations 
between  the  sexes  had  been  very  loose  in  the  dark  days.  Almost 
everything  connected  with  the  lives  of  the  people  had  to  do  with 
religion,  except  marriage.  The  missionaries  introduced  a new  order 
of  things.  The  original  workers  were  strongly  reinforced  from  time 
to  time.  The  good  work  spread  all  over  the  Islands.  The  whole  peo- 
ple were  gathered  into  churches  and  schools  and  Christian  homes. 


32 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


They  were  clothed  and  in  their  right  mind.  Missionaries  were  sent 
to  the  Gilbert,  to  the  Marshall,  and  to  Marquesas  Islands.  When  the 
Jubilee  was  obsei'ved  the  motto  seen  everywhere  was  this:  “The 

life  of  the  land  is  perpetuated  by  righteousness.”  Back  of  the  old 
stone  church  is  the  graveyard  where  the  missionaries  and  their  fam- 
ilies are  buried.  Under  royal  palms  and  firs  they  rest  from  their 
labors.  This  is  holy  ground;  it  is  God’s  acre.  I saw  the  mauso- 
leum where  the  ashes  of  kings  and  queens  repose,  but  no  place  in 
Honolulu  stirred  my  soul  so  deeply  as  this. 

Next  to  the  churches  the  most  interesting  place  in  Honolulu  is 
the  Bishop  Museum  of  Potynesian  Ethnology  and  Natural  History. 
This  museum  is  the  most  extensive  and  the  most  complete  of  its 
kind  in  existence.  It  contains  between  fifty  and  sixty  thousand 
curiosities.  Every  group  in  the  Pacific  is  represented.  In  this 
museum  we  can  see  how  the  natives  lived.  Here  are  models  of  their 
houses,  and  specimens  of  their  furniture  and  clothing  and  orna- 
ments. We  can  see  how  they  prepared  and  served  their  food. 
Here  are  their  canoes  and  fishing  tackle  and  surf  boards  and  weap- 
ons of  war.  Here  are  the  tools  they  used  and  the  gods  they  wor- 
shiped. Here  are  specimens  of  the  animal  life  of  the  Pacific, — birds, 
fish,  snakes,  kangaroos,  insects  and  shellfish.  The  Curator,  W.  T. 
Brigham,  A.  M.,  is  a very  intelligent  and  interesting  gentleman. 
He  took  us  through  and  explained  everything.  It  was  a rare  treat. 
The  houses  of  the  people  were  of  frame  and  thatched  with  straw. 
The  king’s  palace  looked  like  a haystack.  The  building  of  a house 
was  a religious  act.  The  priest  must  select  the  timber  and  decide 
the  time  for  cutting  it.  He  must  select  the  site.  A man  must  be 
sacrificed  and  placed  under  the  main  post.  After  the  building  was 
thatched  the  priest  must  locate  the  door.  A raised  portion  of  the 
floor  served  for  a bed.  There  was  no  chimney;  the  smoke  got  out 
as  best  it  could  or  stayed  within.  The  thatch  soon  got  full  of  ver- 
min, and  the  house,  being  poorly  ventilated,  became  musty  and 
unwholesome.  The  furniture  was  simple.  It  consisted  of  a few 
calabashes  to  hold  food  and  clothing,  some  dishes  for  pig,  dog  or 
fish,  some  water  bottles,  a few  rolls  of  mats  and  bundles  of  cloth. 
The  mat  could  be  used  for  a bed,  or  for  a coat,  or  for  a sail.  The 
chiefs  used  no  spoon  or  fork.  The  greasy  nature  of  roast  pig  or 
dog  or  the  sticky  nature  of  poi  made  finger-bonds  a necessity.  Slop 
basins  were  used  to  receive  the  refuse  of  the  food,  such  as  fish 
bones  and  banana  skins.  These  were  often  inlaid  with  the  teeth  or 
bones  of  slain  enemies.  We  saw  one  that  must  have  had  two  hun- 
dred teeth  in  it.  A chief  when  dying  would  strictly  charge  his 


T.  D.  Garvin. 


Lieut.  Stileman. 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


33 


friends  to  see  that  his  bones  were  buried  where  no  enemy  could  find 
them  to  make  of  them  arrows  to  shoot  mice,  or  fish-hooks,  or  to 
adorn  his  slop  basin.  Clothing  was  made  from  the  bark  of  a tree. 
It  was  beaten  out  thin  on  a wooden  anvil,  they  had  a method  of 
coloring  it.  Some  patterns  are  quite  pretty.  I he  principal  source 
of  food  was  the  taro  plant.  This  was  beaten  in  a wooden  dish  with 
a stone  pestle.  When  it  fermented  it  was  called  poi.  It  is  palat- 
able and  nourishing.  It  was  man’s  work  to  prepare  food;  it  was 
woman’s  work  to  prepare  clothing.  Their  ornaments  consisted  of 
bracelets,  fans,  anklets,  bangles,  necklaces,  ear-rings  and  combs, 
made  of  beautiful  shells.  Their  canoes  were  well  made.  Their 
weapons  of  war  are  poor  things  compared  with  Krupp  guns,  but 
they  answered  their  purpose.  The  stone  adze  was  their  chief  cut- 
ting tool.  With  it  they  felled  trees  and  made  canoes  and  paddles 
and  spears  and  idols.  They  had  gouges  and  chisels  which  were 
made  of  sharks’  teeth  and  drills  made  from  shells  or  lava  splinters. 
They  used  lava  and  corals  of  various  surfaces  to  polish  with.  With, 
these  simple  instruments  they  accomplished  surprising  results. 
They  made  bowls  as  round  as  if  they  had  been  turned  in  a lathe. 
Among  the  thousands  of  things  seen  were  pillows  of  quaint  designs, 
sandals,  scratchees,  stone  lamps,  loving  cups,  spittoons,  bone  needles, 
large  tureens  in  which  human  flesh  was  served  at  cannibal  feasts, 
coats  of  armor,  cloth  shields,  swords,  fish-nets,  mirrors,  pipes.  One 
curious  thing  was  a chief’s  belt  with  one  hundred  and  twenty 
human  teeth  fastened  to  it.  The  teeth  indicated  that  he  had  killed 
and  eaten  that  number.  The  teeth  were  trophies  and  were  worn  as 
an  Indian  savage  wore  his  scalps.  The  idols  do  not  resemble  any 
thing  in  heaven  above  or  on  earth  beneath.  No  doubt  these  gods 

are  still  worshiped  by  a few.  We  saw  in  one  case  an  offering  that 

was  made  in  June  of  the  current  year.  It  consisted  of  two  bottles 
of  whisky.  Each  had  a corkscrew  for  the  convenience  of  the 
spirits,  who  have  no  teeth. 

In  one  room  are  portraits  of  all  the  kings  and  queens,  beginning 
with  Kamehameha  the  Great  (1737-1819)  down  to  the  present  time. 
Not  only  so,  but  there  are  portraits  of  many  distinguished  people 
who  were  connected  with  the  Islands  in  some  way.  The  Curator 
pointed  out  Princess  Ruth.  She  weighed  about  four  hundred 

pounds.  It  took  five  men  to  help  her  into  the  saddle  when  she 

went  out  for  a ride.  She  measured  around  the  waist  sixty  inches. 
Once  she  proposed  to  compress  her  waist  as  foreigners  do.  She  got 
a corset  and  got  a number  of  court  flunkies  to  assist.  She  emptied 

her  lungs  and  asked  them  to  haul  in  the  slack.  She  repeated  this 
3 


34 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


process  two  or  three  times,  but  when  she  began  to  breathe  every- 
thing broke,  and  she  was  as  large  as  before.  She  despaired  of  a 
wasp  waist.  Once  the  Curator  tried  to  waltz  with  her.  He  might 
as  well  have  tried  to  get  his  arm  around  a hogshead.  He  wished 
he  had  been  able  to  take  Sydney  Smith’s  advice  and  dance 
with  her  by  sections  or  read  the  riot  act  and  disperse  her.  There 
are  books  of  all  kinds  in  this  room  relating  to  the  Islands.  The 
one  that  interested  me  most  was  a copy  of  the  Hawaiian  Bible  pub- 
lished in  1839.  It  contains  2,331  pages.  In  addition  there  are 
Bibles  in  the  following  tongues:  Tahitian,  Malagasy,  Rarotongan, 

Tongan,  Maori,  Gilbert  Island,  Marshall  Island.  The  Curator 
pointed  out  a cannon  ball  that  was  fired  at  Mr.  Richards’  house  to 
compel  him  to  pei'mit  the  women  to  visit  the  ships  as  they  did  while 
in  their  heathen  blindness.  “ Mr.  Richards  did  not  scare;  a bit,” 
was  the  only  comment.  One  of  the  blackest  chapters  in  human 
history  is  that  which  records  the  deeds  of  some  British  and  Ameri- 
can seamen  in  their  dealings  with  the  natives.  It  would  have  been 
better  for  them  if  a millstone  turned  by  an  ass  had  been  hung  about 
their  necks  and  they  cast  into  the  sea. 

We  visited  the  Palace  and  saw  several  members  of  the  Cabinet. 
As  we  drove  up  ex-Queen  Liliuokalani  came  out  on  her  balcony. 
She  is  a state  prisoner,  and  is  not  allowed  to  receive  visitors.  We 
found  the  Legislature  in  session.  The  question  before  both 
houses  was  that  of  a subsidy  toward  a cable  between  the  Islands 
and  the  United  States.  In  the  lower  house  an  interpreter  repeated 
every  speech;  the  Senate  needed  none.  The  government  is  a 
Republic  in  name.  In  some  important  respects  it  differs  from  our 
American  notion  of  a Republic.  For  example,  the  Constitution 
was  “ promulgated;  ” it  was  not  adopted  by  the  people.  The  Con- 
stitutional Convention  elected  a President  to  serve  six  years.  His 
successor  will  be  elected  by  the  Legislature.  But  in  his  election 
there  must  be  a majority  of  all  the  Senators.  The  aim  seems  to 
be  to  keep  all  the  power  in  the  Senate.  No  man  can  be  a Repre- 
sentative unless  he  owns  property  in  the  Republic  worth  not  less 
than  one  thousand  dollars  over  and  above  all  incumbrances,  or  has 
received  a money  income  of  not  less  than  six  hundred  dollars  dur- 
ing the  year  preceding  the  election.  To  be  a Senator  one  must  own 
property  worth  three  thousand  dollars,  or  have  been  in  receipt  of 
twelve  hundred  dollars  during  the  year  just  before  the  election. 
And  no  one  can  vote  for  a Senator  who  lias  not  real  property  worth 
fifteen  hundred  dollars  over  and  above  all  incumbrances,  or  per- 
sonal property  worth  three  thousand  dollars  over  and  above  all 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


35 


incumbrances,  or  has  actually  received  a money  income  of  not  less 
than  six  hundred  dollars  the  year  before  the  date  of  the  election. 
The  franchise  is  in  the  hands  of  the  property-holders  very  largely. 
There  is  no  such  thing  as  manhood  suffrage.  All  agree  that  the 
government  is  wisely  and  honestly  and  economically  administered. 
It  is  by  far  the  best  government  the  Islands  have  ever  had. 

The  commerce  of  the  Islands  is  constantly  increasing.  In  1893 
the  imports  and  exports  amounted  to  $16,089,467.08.  In  ten  years 
(1884-1893)  they  aggregated  $157,815,052.77.  There  are  eighty-one 
corporations  registered  with  an  actual  paid-up  capital  of  $21,937,- 
160.  The  gross  income  for  the  year  ending  July  1,  1893,  was 
$10,004,187.  The  cultivation  of  sugar-cane  is  the  chief  industry. 
In  1893  the  crop  was  150,000  tons.  This  at  seventy  dollars  a 
ton  represents  $10,500,000.  The  rice  crop  is  estimated  at  30,000,- 
000  pounds.  The  raising  of  cattle  comes  third.  The  coffee  indus- 
try is  yet  in  its  infancy,  but  5,000  acres  being  planted.  The  people 
claim  that  it  is  the  best  coffee  in  the  world.  The  real  and  personal 
property  is  assessed  for  taxation  purposes  at  nearly  $40,000,000.  It 
is  said  that  all  the  tropical  trees  and  fruits  will  flourish  on  the 
Islands.  At  the  present  time  one  can  see  the  orange,  lemon, 
citron,  bread-fruit,  mango,  persimmon,  almond,  cocoanut,  pine- 
apple, banana,  fig,  lime,  tamarind,  plum,  algeroba,  grape,  pear, 
banyan,  and  almost  every  variety  of  palm.  Beside  these  the  soil 
produces  yams,  potatoes,  beets,  carrots,  onions,  peas,  beans,  corn, 
melons,  cabbage,  cauliflower,  squash  and  tomatoes.  Taro  is  largely 
grown  and  used.  The  revenue  from  all  sources  amounts  to  $1,625,- 
000.  The  public  debt  is  $3,400,000.  The  government  pays  for  free 
schools  $240,000  a year.  Practically  every  man  and  woman  and 
child  on  the  Islands  can  read  and  write.  The  government  pays 
$170,000  for  the  support  of  the  lepers.  They  are  segregated  on  the 
Island  of  Molokai.  They  have  5,000  acres  set  apart  for  their  use. 
On  three  sides  they  are  surrounded  by  the  sea,  and  on  the  fourth 
there  is  a precipice  over  2,000  feet  high.  It  was  there  that  Father 
Damien  did  his  work  and  won  immortal  fame. 

The  natives  are  dying  out.  Captain  Cook  estimated  that  there 
were  400,000  people  on  these  Islands.  This  estimate  was  too  high. 
In  1832  there  were  130,313.  Between  1850  and  1884  there  was  a 
decrease  of  62,385.  The  population  in  1894  was  100,044.  Of  this 
number  41,736  are  Hawaiians;  15,000  are  Chinese;  21,600  are 
Japanese,  and  21,708  are  Americans  or  Europeans.  The  property 
is  now  for  the  most  part  in  the  hands  of  the  whites.  The  indus- 
trial development  of  the  Islands  has  changed  the  character  of  the 


36 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


population.  On  the  street  one  sees  people  from  all  parts  of  the 
world.  Honolulu  is  cosmopolitan.  There  are  on  the  streets 
Portuguese,  Chinese,  Japanese,  South  Sea  Islanders,  Scotch, 
English,  Germans,  Canadians,  Americans,  and  Hawaiians.  The 
population  being  changed,  there  is  now  a new  religious  problem. 
The  American  Board  felt  that  it  could  withdraw  from  the  field 
thirty  years  ago.  But  new  peoples  are  coming  in.  As  this  indus- 
trial development  continues,  more  and  more  will  come.  A walk 
with  W.  C.  Weedon  through  the  Chinese  and  Japanese  quarters 
near  midnight  shows  that  there  is  room  for  all  who  wish  to  work. 
The  Hawaiian  Evangelical  Association  is  doing  a great  work;  still 
there  are  thousands  whom  the  Gospel  has  not  touched.  The 
Roman  Catholics  entered  the  Islands  in  1827.  Their  claims  were 
backed  with  French  cannon.  They  have  now  a strong  staff  and 
many  adherents.  The  Church  of  England  sent  some  workers  here 
in  1862.  They  have  not  made  much  headway,  so  far  as  I could 
learn. 

For  several  years  there  have  been  a number  of  Disciples  in  Hono- 
lulu. Their  homes  and  their  business  interests  are  hei’e.  They 
are  incurable  Disciples.  They  want  their  children  to  grow  up  in 
the  faith.  Nearly  two  years  ago  they  invited  T.  D.  Garvin  to  settle 
among  them  and  to  organize  a church.  One  year  ago  a congrega- 
tion of  eleven  members  was  organized.  They  number  now  thirty- 
five.  Nine  others  were  added,  but  these  were  organized  into 
another  church  on  board  the  British  ship  of  war,  The  Hyacinth. 
Lieutenant  Stileman  is  their  minister.  A Sunday-school  was 
organized  last  December.  There  was  then  one  scholar;  now  there 
are  fifty.  A chapel  is  in  course  of  erection,  and  will  soon  be  ready 
for  use.  It  will  not  be  as  fine  as  the  Union  Central  Church,  which 
cost  $137,000,  but  it  will  answer  all  purposes  just  as  well.  Last 
year  six  men  assumed  all  the  expenses  of  this  enterprise.  It  was  a 
brave  thing  to  do,  but  they  did  it.  Miss  Harrison  is  at  work  among 
the  Japanese.  The  day  I was  there  one  was  baptized  in  a pool  that 
once  was  used  only  by  the  great  chiefs  for  bathing  purposes.  Dr. 
Garvin  has  baptized  a hundred  Japanese  since  he  came  to  Hono- 
lulu. Many  of  these  are  scattered  far  and  wide.  Some  of  them 
will  carry  the  good  seed  into  their  new  homes,  and  God  only  can 
foresee  the  results.  On  Sunday  I spoke  twice  in  Harmony  Hall, 
and  once  to  the  Japanese  through  Miss  Harrison.  The  audiences 
wei’e  good  and  attentive.  Among  them  were  Hon.  A.  S.  Willis, 
American  Minister,  and  his  wife  and  son.  They  invited  us  to  break 
bread  with  them  on  Monday.  Under  their  hospitable  roof  we 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


37 


forgot  time  and  space,  and  fancied  we  were  back  in  an  old  Ken- 
tucky home.  There  was  some  feeling  at  first  against  our  people 
organizing  a church  in  Honolulu.  But  that  feeling  is  giving  way. 
Dr.  McArthur  told  the  pastors  that  if  the  Disciples  had  not  begun 
a work,  he  would  urge  the  Baptists  to  send  a man  there  at  once. 
As  it  is,  there  is  no  need. 

In  1820  Honolulu  had  a population  of  4,000,  living  in  grass  huts; 
a few  cocoanut  trees,  no  flowers,  no  greensward,  no  water,  no 
horses  or  carriages.  All  around  was  a barren  waste.  Now  it  is  a 
well-built  town,  with  beautiful  groves  and  flowers  of  every  kind, 
carriages  and  horses  without  number,  electric  light,  water-works,  a 
kindergarten,  schools  for  boys  and  girls,  a college  and  seminary, 
a public  reading  room,  a Young  Men’s  Christian  Association, 
eighteen  papers  and  magazines,  the  Queen’s  Hospital,  with  its 
magnificent  grounds,  the  Lunalilo  Home  for  the  aged  poor,  elegant 
mansions  occupied  by  men  who  have  made  colossal  fortunes,  the 
Palace  and  the  Temple  of  Justice,  the  telephone,  and  all  the 
appointments  of  modern  civilization.  W.  M.  Hopper  took  me  to 
the  Punchbowl,  an  extinct  volcano  back  of  the  city.  One  might  go 
over  the  world  and  not  see  a finer  view.  At  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain is  the  beautiful  city;  far  away  in  one  direction  is  Pearl 
Harbor;  in  another  direction  is  Diamond  Head;  back  of  you  are  the 
mountains;  before  you  is  the  wide  ocean.  It  was  a glorious  sight. 
While  there  the  thought  was  suggested,  suppose  Captain  Cook 
could  revisit  this  place,  what  would  he  think?  He  would  think  he 
had  lost  his  bearings,  and  was  borne  by  wind  and  wave  to  the 
“Paradise  of  the  Pacific.” 

My  visit  in  Honolulu  was  exceedingly  pleasant.  The  friends 
there  did  everything  in  their  power  for  my  comfort  and  for  my 
profit.  Miss  Beard  and  Mrs.  Hopper  placed  their  carriages  at 
my  service.  Dr.  Garvin  went  with  me  evex-y where.  I saw  more 
than  1 could  have  seen  in  a month  had  I been  alone.  The  native 
women  wear  their  Mother  Hubbard  di’ess  on  the  sti’eet  and  to 
church,  but  I soon  foi’got  that.  Even  the  mosquitoes  were  better 
than  their  i*eputation.  Only  one  thing  disturbed  my  equanimity. 
W.  C.  Weedon  gave  my  shoes  to  his  Japanese  servant  to  clean. 
He  looked  at  them  in  dismay,  and  said,  “Big!  Me  could  live  in 
them.”  Aside  from  this  unfeeling  remark  of  the  diminutive 
Asiatic,  all  my  memories  of  Honolulu  are  delightful. 


VI. 


“THE  ISLES  SHALL  WAIT  FOR  HIS  LAW.” 

As  we  steam  out  from  Honolulu  towards  Japan,  we  cannot  but 
think  of  the  islands  lying  to  the  south  of  us.  A glance  at  the  map 
of  the  Pacific  will  show  how  numerous  these  are.  “The  whole 
ocean  is  studded  with  ocean  gems,  as  if  the  mirror  of  the  starry  sky 
above  it.”  Three  hundred  of  these  islands  have  been  evangelized, 
and  are  centers  of  light  and  life. 

The  Hawaiians  felt  at  an  early  day  that  they  ought  to  carry  the 
Gospel  to  those  sitting  in  darkness  and  in  the  shadow  of  death. 
They  rightly  felt  that  only  thus  could  they  retain  the  truth  which 
they  had  received,  and  become  strengthened  and  established  in  the 
faith.  In  1853  two  native  pastors  and  their  wives,  in  answer  to  a 
call  from  the  Marquesas  Islands,  volunteered  for  that  field.  Rev. 
P.  W.  Parker,  an  American,  accompanied  them  that  he  might 
counsel  and  encourage  them.  A Roman  Catholic  priest  demanded 
that  these  missionaries  should  be  sent  away,  on  the  ground  that 
these  Islands  belonged  to  the  French.  One  of  the  chiefs  said: 
“No;  the  land  is  not  yours.  It  belongs  to  this  jrnople.  There  never 
was  a Frenchman  born  here.  These  teachers  must  not  be  sent 
back.”  Some  years  afterward  a native  was  invited  to  dine  on 
board  a whale-ship.  He  would  not  eat  anything  until  he  had  asked 
a blessing.  In  his  broken  English  he  said:  “O  Great  Fader! 

Got  no  fader;  got  no  moder;  got  no  broder;  got  no  sister!  Make 
first  the  sea;  make  first  the  dry  land;  make  first  the  moon  and 
stars;  make  first  the  trees;  then  he  make  man.  And  now  Great 
Fader,  give  man  his  belly  full.  Amen.”  This  might  have  been 
couched  in  smoother  language,  but  it  would  be  difficult  to  make  it 
more  expressive  or  more  appropriate.  ‘Once  an  American  whale- 
ship  touched  at  these  Islands  for  supplies.  The  mate,  on  going 
ashore,  was  seized  and  dragged  away  to  be  killed.  Some  young 
men  had  been  stolen  by  another  ship  to  be  sold  as  slaves.  The  day 
of  vengeance  had  now  come.  The  mate  was  in  their  power. 
Through  the  interposition  of  a Christian  girl  and  one  of  the  mis- 
sionaries the  mate  was  saved  and  sent  back  to  his  ship.  President 

Lincoln,  hearing  of  this,  sent  two  gold  watches  and  two  silver 

38 


THE  ISLES  SHALL  WAIT  FOR  HIS  LAW 


39 


medals,  and  other  gifts,  costing  live  hundred  dollars  in  all,  to  be 
distributed  among  the  deliverers.  The  missionary  wrote  to  the 
President,  “When  I saw  one  of  your  countrymen  ill-treated,  and 
about  to  be  baked  and  eaten,  as  a pig  is  eaten,  I ran  to  deliver  him, 
full  of  pity  and  grief  at  the  evil  deed  of  those  benighted  people. 
As  to  this  friendly  deed  of  mine,  its  seed  came  from  your  great 
land,  and  was  brought  by  certain  of  your  countrymen  who  had 
received  the  love  of  God.  It  was  planted  in  Hawaii,  and  I brought 
it  to  plant  in  this  land  and  in  these  dark  regions,  that  they  might 
receive  the  root  of  all  that  is  good  and  true,  which  is  love.”  When 
this  letter  reached  Washington,  the  President  was  dead  and  the 
nation  in  mourning. 

Other  workers  were  sent  to  the  Marshall  Islands  and  to  the  Gil- 
bert Islands.  In  the  last  named  group  there  are  nine  Hawaiian 
missionaries  and  their  wives.  One  of  the  most  precious  incidents 
of  my  stay  in  Honolulu  was  a visit  to  Dr.  Hiram  Bingham  and  his 
family.  He  is  a son  of  the  pioneer  missionary  of  the  same  name. 
His  wife  is  a born  linguist  and  a born  missionary.  She  is  a 
descendant  of  the  Brewster  of  the  Mayflower.  His  sister  is  the 
wife  of  the  sainted  Titus  Coan.  His  son,  the  third  Hiram  Bing- 
ham, is  a student  in  Yale,  and  expects  to  go  to  China  as  a medical 
missionary.  Dr.  Bingham  now  lives  in  Honolulu,  but  he  has  given 
his  life  to  the  Gilbert  Islands.  He  and  his  wife  were  left  alone 
with  God  among  a savage  people.  Those  who  think  that  the 
natives  without  the  Gospel  are  innocent  and  happy,  would  do  well 
to  interview  Dr.  Bingham.  The}’  began  the  study  of  the  language 
at  once.  As  none  understood  English,  this  was  slow  work.  They 
picked  up  one  word  after  another  till  in  six  months  they  were  able 
to  address  the  people  on  Gospel  themes.  They  visited  the  Islands 
and  preached  Christ  wherever  they  found  an  open  door.  They 
took  their  own  food  and  cooking  utensils  and  bedding  with  them. 
They  heard  from  the  great  world  beyond  only  once  a year.  They 
undertook  to  reduce  the  language  to  a written  form.  There  are 
only  thirteen  letters  in  this  language.  In  1859  Dr.  Bingham  began 
the  translation  of  the  New  Testament.  In  fourteen  years  it  was 
completed.  In  1883  he  began  the  Old  Testament.  This  was  com- 
pleted in  seven  years.  Mrs.  Bingham  greatly  assisted  him.  Two 
natives  aided  him  on  the  Old  Testament.  When  they  came  to  the 
last  verse  a photographer  took  a picture  of  the  translators  and 
their  tools.  Dr.  Bingham  gave  me  a copy.  No  other  gift  could  be 
so  highly  prized.  Mrs.  Bingham  has  written  a book  of  Bible 
stories.  They  have  also  prepared  a hymn-book. 


40 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


The  London  Missionary  Society,  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Soci- 
ety, the  Church  Missionary  Society,  and  the  United  Presbyterian 
Society  of  Scotland,  have  sent  workers  to  these  islands.  It  was  in 
Fiji  that  John  Hunt  and  Janies  Calvert  did  their  work.  John  Will- 
iams and  his  associates  labored  in  the  Hervey  and  Samoan  groups 
and  won  them  to  Christ.  Norfolk  Island  was  the  scene  of  the 
labors  of  Patteson.  Marsden  and  Selvvyn  did  their  work  farther 
south  among  the  Maoris.  The  New  Hebrides  were  evangelized  by 
Geddie,  Gordon  and  Paton.  Several  efforts  were  made  to  drive 
Paton  away;  lie  would  not  go.  He  would  stay  at  any  cost.  They 
sought  to  kill  him;  he  would  not  be  killed.  He  lived  to  see  four- 
teen thousand  converts.  He  still  lives,  and  may  see  as  many  more. 
He  tells  of  his  effort  to  print  the  Bible.  He  was  not  a printer,  but 
by  persistence  he  got  the  types  in  their  proper  place.  When  the 
first  page  was  printed,  he  went  out  and  threw  up  his  hat  and 
shouted  and  danced  for  joy.  It  was  long  after  midnight;  the 
natives  were  sound  asleep;  and  he  was  a missionary.  But  his  dance 
was  like  David’s  when  he  brought  back  the  ark;  it  was  an  act  of 
worship.  When  water  failed,  he  proposed  to  dig  a well.  The  peo- 
ple thought  he  was  insane.  They  had  seen  the  water  come  down 
from  the  clouds,  and  never  heard  of  it  coining  up  from  the  heart  of 
the  earth.  When  they  did  strike  water,  they  changed  their  minds 
and  regarded  him  as  a god.  He  describes  the  dress  of  a bride. 
Over  her  grass  skirts  she  wore  a man’s  overcoat,  buttoned  from  her 
chin  to  her  toes.  Over  that  she  wore  a man’s  vest.  To  each 
shoulder  she  fastened  a man’s  shirt;  one  was  red  and  the  other  was 
striped.  When  she  walked  these  moved  like  wings.  Then  she 
took  a pair  of  man’s  pantaloons  and  placed  the  body  of  them  over 
her  head  and  allowed  the  legs  to  hang  down  her  back.  Her  head 
dress  was  made  of  a red  shirt,  and  one  sleeve  hung  over  one  ear, 
and  the  other  sleeve  over  the  other  ear.  In  this  apparel  she  came 
to  the  altar  in  a July  day.  The  humorous  is  blended  with  the 
heroic. 

On  Savage  Island  all  captives  and  strangers  were  sacrificed  for 
their  inhuman  feasts.  A number  of  Society  Island  converts  deter- 
mined to  make  an  effort  to  introduce  the  Gospel  among  them. 
The  effort  cost  the  participants  their  lives.  Some  three  years  later 
a native  convert,  named  Luke,  sought  permission  to  make  another 
trial.  He  was  taken  in  a ship  as  near  the  island  as  was  thought 
prudent  for  it  to  go.  Luke  took  a bundle  of  clothes  and  a New 
Testament,  and  fastening  them  on  his  head  leaped  into  the  sea  and 
swam  ashore.  He  was  seized  and  was  about  to  be  sacrificed.  He 


THE  ISLES  SHALL  WAIT  FOR  HIS  LAW 


41 


made  himself  understood  and  was  allowed  to  deliver  his  message. 
The  people  were  interested  and  spared  him  till  the  next  day. 
Having  gained  their  ears  he  soon  gained  their  hearts.  Two  or 
three  years  later  the  missionary  ship  ventured  near  these  shores. 
They  found,  to  their  astonishment  and  delight,  the  whole  island 
revolutionized.  Savagery  had  been  renounced,  and  the  whole  peo- 
ple wanted  to  be  taught  the  Christian  way.  In  course  of  time  some 
workers  from  this  island  went  to  New  Guinea.  They  were  all  mas- 
sacred. The  question  was  asked,  Who  will  take  their  place? 
Twenty  arose  and  offered  themselves  for  this  desperate  service. 
So  the  work  spreads  from  island  to  island.  The  Gospel  must 
propagate  itself.  Those  who  have  it  cannot  keep  the  good  news  to 
themselves.  The  natives  of  the  Friendly  Islands  were  so  ignorant 
they  did  not  know  of  fire.  They  ate  everything  raw.  They  did  not 
know  that  water  would  boil.  One  missionary  says:  “When  I 

kindled  a fire  and  boiled  some  water,  I could  scarce  restrain  them 
from  worshiping  me  as  a god.  You  can  imagine  how  they  mar- 
veled when  myself  and  wife  reduced  their  language  to  writing,  and 
printed  the  word  of  God  on  our  little  printing  press.”  This  man 
lived  to  see  thirty  thousand  converts  on  this  group.  Montgomery 
wrote : 

“The  immense  Pacific  smiles 
Round  ten  thousand  little  isles, 

Haunts  of  violence  and  wiles ; 

But  the  powers  of  darkness  yield, 

For  the  Cross  is  in  the  field, 

And  the  Light  of  life  revealed.” 

It  is  even  so.  War  and  waste  are  giving  place  to  fruitful  strifes 
and  rivalries  of  peace.  These  islands  that  once  produced  nothing 
now  produce  figs,  limes,  oranges,  bananas,  bread-fruit,  guavas, 
melons,  pineapples,  yams,  sweet  potatoes,  peanuts,  tea,  coffee, 
hemp,  leather,  silk,  wax,  timber,  copper,  tin,  gold.  And  people 
who  once  were  as  stupid  as  death,  and  as  indifferent  as  the  grave, 
are  now  intensely  interested  in  the  Word  and  work  of  life. 

The  Lord,  speaking  through  the  prophet,  said:  “The  isles  shall 

wait  for  his  law;”  “The  isles  shall  wait  for  me,  and  on  mine  arm 
shall  they  trust;”  “Surely  the  isles  shall  wait  for  me.”  These 
prophecies  have  been  largely  fulfilled.  The  Gospel  has  reached 
Madagascar,  Formosa,  Java,  Sumatra,  Celebes,  Borneo,  New 
Guinea,  New  Zealand.  Over  the  door  of  the  postoffice  in  Hong 
Kong  are  the  words:  “As  cold  water  is  to  a thirsty  soul,  so  is 

good  news  from  a far  country.”  In  Ceylon  a Brahman  was  asked 


42 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


if  he  worshiped  the  gods.  He  said,  “The  gods  worship  me.”  A 
traveler  saw  some  trees  marked  “X.”  He  asked  what  this  mark 
indicated.  He  was  told  that  every  X tree  was  devoted  to  the  Lord. 
He  saw  a woman  throw  a handful  of  rice  into  the  pot  for  every 
member  of  the  family,  and  then  two  handfuls  into  a pot  near  the 
tire.  She  said,  “This  is  the  Lord’s  rice  pot,  and  I remember  him 
when  cooking  each  meal.”  So  on  every  continent  and  every  island 
of  the  sea  the  Gospel  is  having  free  course  and  is  being  glorified. 
So  it  must  continue,  for  the  promise  confirmed  with  an  oath  is  this, 
“As  I live,  saith  the  Lord,  all  the  earth  shall  be  filled  with  my 


VII. 


FROM  HONOLULU  TO  YOKOHAMA. 

The  Hawaiians  are  passionately  fond  of  music  and  flowers.  The 
Royal  Band  plays  when  ships  arrive  and  when  they  depart.  Friends 
cover  those  about  to  leave  with  wreaths  and  garlands.  The  ship 
and  officers  and  passengers  are  decorated.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  M. 
Hopper,  W.  L.  Templeton  and  W.  C.  Weedon,  drove  me  to  the 
ship  and  arrayed  me  in  becoming  style,  and  stood  on  the  pier  wav- 
ing good  wishes  and  farewells  as  long  as  they  could  distinguish  one 
passenger  from  another.  Their  wreath  made  my  room  fragrant  for 
a week;  their  kindness  will  be  precious  for  all  time. 

There  is  another  Hawaiian  custom  that  is  not  so  beautiful.  When 
a ship  comes  in  or  goes  out,  scores  of  boys  swim  out  and  call  on  the 
passengers  to  throw  a nickel  or  a dime  into  the  sea  that  they  may 
show  how  they  can  dive  and  get  it.  These  lads  are  “ tolerably 
amphibious.”  They  swim  like  fish.  When  a coin  is  thrown  they 
dive  instantly  and  some  one  catches  it  before  it  reaches  the  bottom. 
It  would  be  better  if  passengers  did  not  encourage  this  somewhat 
demoralizing  practice.  The  boys  earn  a precarious  living.  The 
strong  and  swift  succeed  fairly  well;  the  weak  and  slow  get  little  or 
nothing.  It  would  be  better  for  these  stout  lads  to  earn  a living  in 
some  other  way. 

When  our  ship  was  across  the  bar  we  looked  about  a little.  It 
was  plain  that  our  passenger  list  was  greatly  increased.  We  took 
on  four  hundi'ed  Japanese  in  Honolulu.  The  Government  imports 
Japanese  and  Chinese  and  Portuguese,  and  leases  them  to  the 
planters.  They  come  on  a three  years’  contract.  When  the  con- 
tract expires  they  can  remain  on  the  Islands  or  return  home.  The 
Government  sees  that  the  rights  of  these  people  are  conserved. 
Truant  officers  see  that  all  children  of  a certain  age  are  in  school. 
A portion  of  their  wages  is  deposited  in  the  Savings  Bank  every 
month  to  their  credit.  This  is  paid  over  to  them  in  bulk  when  the 
contract  has  been  fulfilled.  With  this  amount  of  capital  they  can 
stai’t  in  business  in  a small  way  on  the  Islands,  or  they  can  return 
home  and  buy  a small  property  or  go  into  business  there.  Those 

43 


44 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


that  took  passage  on  the  City  of  Peking  had  finished  a term  of 
three  years.  As  times  are  dull  on  the  Islands,  and  as  the  fare  was 
reduced  to  ten  dollars  or  less,  this  large  number  decided  to  return 
to  Japan.  The  Japanese  are  warmly  attached  to  the  land  of  their 
birth,  but  not  so  much  so  as  the  Chinese.  The  Japanese  take  their 
wives  with  them;  the  Chinese  do  not.  If  a Chinese  dies  on  board 
ship  or  in  a foreign  land  his  body  is  embalmed  and  sent  to  the 
Flowery  Kingdom.  Should  the  annexation  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands 
ever  become  a live  question  in  the  United  States  this  system  of  con- 
tract labor  would  have  to  be  dealt  with.  The  planters  say  they 
would  be  ruined  if  they  had  to  pay  American  prices  for  labor. 

The  list  of  cabin  passengers  has  been  more  than  doubled.  As 
usual,  we  have  people  of  all  kinds.  Some  are  going  on  business 
and  are  sensible  people.  Some  are  making  the  grand  tour  just 
because  it  is  the  thing  to  do.  They  have  struck  oil  or  pay  dirt  or 
something  else,  and  can  afford  to  go.  They  are  well-dressed,  have 
as  many  diamonds  as  they  can  display,  and  look  as  if  they  did  not 
need  to  offer  the  Scotchman’s  prayer  for  a “ good  conceit  of  them- 
selves.” When  they  open  their  mouths  and  expose  their  minds, 
and  set  forth  their  plans  and  purposes,  the  disenchantment  is  com- 
plete. Coleridge  met  a handsome  man  at  a dinner  party.  His  head 
was  covered  with  great  knobs  as  if  the  brain  was  too  large  for  the 
skull.  He  seemed  to  be  Solon  and  Solomon  and  Aristotle  and 
Bacon  in  one.  “ I wish  he  would  speak,”  thought  Coleridge.  “ In 
his  capacious  mind  are  treasures  of  knowledge  and  wisdom  by  which 
we  all  might  profit.”  Toward  the  close  of  the  banquet  he  did 
speak,  and  this  is  what  he  said:  “Pass  me  them  dumplings; 

them’s  the  jockies  for  me.”  It  was  enough.  The  poet  and  philos- 
opher was  satisfied.  There  are  people  who  cross  the  Atlantic  and 
the  Pacific  every  year  ostensibly  to  improve  their  minds.  The  x'eal 
reason  is,  it  is  the  thing  to  do.  It  requires  more  than  a letter  of 
credit  and  a vulgar  display  of  diamonds  and  an  extensive  wardrobe 
to  make  such  a trip  with  profit.  A ride  from  Sleepy  Hollow  to 
Frogtown  and  return  would  do  them  as  much  good.  The  steamship 
and  railroad  companies,  the  hotels  and  dealers  in  bric-a-brac  make 
something  out  of  them.  The  rustics  among  whom  they  dwell  will 
regard  their  trip  as  a nine  days’  wonder,  but  that  is  all.  If  they 
were  willing  to  deny  themselves  and  use  this  money  to  give  some 
boy  or  girl  an  education,  or  to  aid  some  worthy  enterprise,  they 
would  make  far  better  use  of  their  time  and  their  means.  How  is 
the  world  advantaged  by  any  number  of  people  carrying  their  low 
aims  and  vulgar  conceptions  of  life  and  their  bad  grammar  around 


FROM  H02WLULU  TO  YOKOHAMA 


46 


it  simply  because  they  have  more  money  than  they  can  use  at  home? 
There  are  men  and  women  who  travel,  and  every  day  is  a feast  to 
them,  and  when  they  return  they  make  good  use  of  what  they  have 
learned,  but  they  are  not,  as  a rule,  the  people  who  make  a display 
of  their  wealth. 

When  we  started  from  San  Francisco  I thought  we  were  on  a 
temperance  ship.  No  one  would  think  so  now.  It  is  astonishing 
how  many  respectable  people  drink,  and  the  amount  they  drink. 
Women  drink  as  much  as  men.  A man  orders  a quart  of  cham- 
pagne for  dinner.  He  and  his  wife  drink  every  drop  of  it.  He  has 
a quart  of  beer  or  claret  for  lunch,  and  as  much  Apollinaris  for 
breakfast,  and  a bottle  or  two  during  the  day.  Christian  men  and 
women  drink  on  board  ship  on  the  plea  that  the  water  is  bad.  The 
water  is  not  bad,  but  even  if  it  were  it  would  still  be  more  whole- 
some than  the  villainous  stuff  with  which  they  saturate  themselves. 
On  this  ship,  years  ago,  a European  clergyman  was  accustomed  to 
take  a class  of  wine  before  going  to  bed.  One  good  woman  saw 
him  and  took  the  glass  from  his  hand  and  threw  it  overboard  and 
gave  him  a piece  of  her  mind  besides.  I wish  she  were  with  us  now. 
The  human  appetite  is  a curious  thing.  It  got  our  first  parents  into 
trouble  in  Eden,  and  it  has  been  getting  their  offspring  into  trouble 
ever  since.  Now,  as  in  Paul’s  day,  there  are  those  whose  stomach 
is  their  god. 

Four  days  out  from  Honolulu  we  crossed  the  one  hundred  and 
eightieth  meridian  and  dropped  a day.  Had  we  been  going  the 
other  way  we  would  have  added  a day.  We  woke  one  morning  and 
called  it  Friday;  we  woke  the  next  morning  and  called  it  Sunday. 
We  lost  one  whole  day  and  can  never  find  it  unless  we  retrace  our 
path.  The  Captain  told  us  that  he  crossed  the  meridian  once  on  his 
birthday.  He  had  no  birthday  and  did  not  count  that  year.  The 
ladies  exclaimed,  “Wasn’t  that  lovely!  I would  like  to  cross  on 
my  birthday.”  In  going  east  he  once  had  two  Easter  Sundays 
together.  Some  cannot  understand  this  yet.  It  is  a great  mystery. 
We  have  had  all  sorts  of  diagrams  and  explanations.  To  most  it 
will  remain  an  insoluble  problem. 

Captain  Ward  asked  me  to  conduct  service  on  Sunday.  On  Brit- 
ish ships  the  captains,  I believe,  read  the  Episcopal  service,  unless 
there  is  an  Episcopal  clergyman  on  board.  When  I crossed  the  At- 
lantic in  1888,  there  were  on  board  Dr.  Noble,  Dr.  Gladden,  Dr.  El- 
linwood,  and  many  others,  but  the  captain  read  the  service.  He  was 
not  5,  religious  man.  On  the  way  back  there  were  several  ministers 
among  the  passengers,  but  no  one  was  asked  to  lead.  The  captain, 


4G 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


a profane  man,  took  the  service.  Our  ship  is  under  the  American 
flag,  and  every  captain  is  at  liberty  in  such  matters.  We  met  for 
worship  under  some  disadvantages.  The  social  hall  had  been 
swept  away  by  a typhoon  a year  ago.  The  books  and  seats  went 
with  it.  We  met  on  deck  in  the  open  air.  Some  books  were  found. 
The  passengers  brought  their  chairs  together.  The  ship  rolled  and 
tossed  not  a little.  But  we  got  along  very  well.  The  text  was: 
“Ye  know  that  the  rulers  of  the  Gentiles  lord  it  over  them,  and 
their  great  ones  exercise  authority  over  them.  Not  so  shall  it  be 
among  you:  but  whosoever  would  become  great  among  you  shall  be 
your  minister;  and  whosoever  would  be  first  among  you  shall  be 
your  servant:  even  as  the  Son  of  man  came  not  to  be  ministered 
unto,  but  to  minister,  and  give  his  life  a ransom  for  many.”  The 
pagan  thought  that  the  great  man  was  the  man  that  was  served,  and 
the  larger  his  retinue  of  servants,  the  greater  the  man.  Christ 
taught  that  the  great  man  is  the  man  who  does  most  to  sei’ve  and 
save.  The  world  has  called  Cyrus,  and  Alexander,  and  Pompey, 
and  Frederick,  and  Constantine,  and  Napoleon  great.  This  appel- 
lation was  given  by  court  flunkies  and  flatterers.  The  men  whose 
names  shall  be  held  in  everlasting  honor  and  love  are  the  men  who 
have  done  most  to  help  and  bless  their  kind.  It  is  not  by  self-asser- 
tion, but  by  service  and  self-sacrifice,  that  greatness  and  eternal  life 
are  won.  The  audience  was  most  respectful.  A reference  was 
made  to  George  the  Fourth.  At  that  point  one  auditor  bobbed  up 
and  strutted  off  in  high  dudgeon.  Perhaps  he  was  related  to  George 
and  resented  any  allusion  that  was  not  complimentary.  In  the 
afternoon  a service  was  conducted  in  Japanese  by  S.  R.  Sasaki.  He 
spoke  from  the  thirteenth  chapter  of  First  Corinthians.  In  the 
evening  Rev.  A.  D.  D.  Fraser  conducted  a service  of  song.  This  ser- 
vice closed  appropriately  with  the  hymn,  “Jesus,  Saviour,  Pilot 
Me.”  It  was  a good  day.  It  was  the  most  pleasant  day  of  the  voy- 
age. Several  were  thankful  for  the  services,  which  they  spoke  of 
as  helpful. 

The  conversation  at  the  table  and  on  the  deck  is  of  the  most 
trivial  character.  I have  not  heard  a bright  remark,  or  a noble  sen- 
timent, or  an  anecdote  worth  remembering  since  I came  on  board. 
The  talk  is  about  the  run,  or  about  the  food,  or  about  the  prospect 
of  reaching  land.  Passengers  are  giving  their  mind  a rest.  They 
must  be.  They  think  with  their  teeth.  What  is  lacking  in  thought 
is  made  up  in  strong  language.  The  soup  is  “ perfectly  lovely;  ” 
the  hash  is  “ perfectly  beautiful;  ” the  baked  beans  are  “ perfectly 
delicious;”  mangoes  are  “horrid;  ” and  onions  are  “dreadful.” 


FROM  HONOLULU  TO  YOKOHAMA 


47 


One  man  sleeps  “magnificently.”  I have  listened  to  tittle-tattle 
and  extravagant  expressions  till  my  soul  is  sick.  There  is  some 
advantage  in  being  deaf  and  dumb.  I wish  we  had  some  savage 
chief  here  to  pronounce  these  misused  words  tabu  for  the  next 
ninety  days.  Some  things  have  been  said  that  would  be  important 
if  they  were  new  or  true.  “ Prohibition  does  not  prohibit;  ” “Pro- 
hibition is  a stupendous  failure  in  Kansas  and  Iowa;  ” “Prohibi- 
tionists are  fools  and  fanatics;”  “Missionaries  are  on  the  wrong 
track;  if  they  would  teach  the  natives  to  sewer  their  cities  and 
observe  sanitary  laws  they  would  do  them  good;  but  to  send  them 
the  Gospel  is  casting  pearls  before  swine.”  Some  “chestnuts” 
have  a tough  life.  The  nine  lives  of  a cat  are  not  a circumstance  in 
comparison.  Men  and  women  who  know  no  more  about  these  ques- 
tions than  a mule  knows  about  metaphysics  talk  as  dogmatically  as 
if  they  were  omniscient.  One  passenger  maintains  that  there  are  no 
gentlemen  in  America.  There  are  none  who  came  over  with  the 
Conqueror  and  fought  at  Hastings;  there  may  be  none  that  came 
from  the  castles  on  the  Rhine  or  on  the  Danube.  But  there  are 
men  who  have  done  things  far  nobler,  and  things  that  fairly  entitle 
them  to  be  called  gentlemen. 

“Kind  hearts  are  more  than  coronets, 

And  simple  faith  than  Norman  blood.” 

The  way  American  girls  are  being  changed  into  Countesses  and 
Duchesses  and  Marchionesses  and  Princesses  shows  that  the  nobility 
of  the  Old  World  does  not  consider  itself  essentially  superior  to  the 
people  of  America. 

The  books  read  are  novels  and  guide-books.  The  novels  as  a 
rule  are  poor  stuff.  They  indicate  the  caliber  and  culture  of  their 
readers.  I have  read  “Beside  the  Bonnie  Brier  Bush”  twice.  I 
gave  it  to  a Scotch  missionary.  He  devoured  it  at  a sitting.  This 
is  a noble  book.  No  one  can  read  it  without  being  made  better.  I 
have  read  Froude’s  “ Oceana,”  and  some  other  solid  works.  I can 
understand  how  Stanley  threw  away  book  after  book  till  his  Bible 
only  was  left.  The  more  one  reads,  the  more  this  Divine  Book 
becomes  to  him,  and  the  more  evident  its  immeasurable  superiority 
becomes.  It  is  at  once  the  newest  and  the  oldest  of  books.  It  is 
the  most  fascinating  book  to  read  on  train  or  ship,  in  the  wilder- 
ness or  in  the  city.  We  are  supposed  to  be  on  a vacation, 
“There  is  nothing  but  space  and  color  and  breath  of  the  sea;  no 
soil,  no  mail,  no  rail,  nothing  but  rest  and  God.”  We  drink  in 
ozone  from  every  wave  and  every  breeze.  The  mind  is  being  fer- 


48 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


tilized  and  invigorated.  Let  us  hope  that  because  of  this  season  of 
inaction  it  will  give  expression  to  thoughts  that  will  shine  and 
sparkle,  to  truths  that  will  wake  to  perish  never. 

A daily  walk  about  the  ship  is  not  without  interest.  The  sheep 
and  chickens  and  turkeys  have  nearly  all  disappeared.  They  have 
found  their  way  into  the  pot,  and  then  into  the  human  stomach,  the 
final  receptacle  of  so  many  things.  Man  claims  to  be  “lord  of  the 
fowl  and  the  brute.”  It  would  be  interesting  to  know  what 
the  fowl  and  the  brute  think  of  this  omnivorous  being.  The 
Japanese  sleep  on  the  upper  deck.  There  are  berths  below,  but 
they  are  stifling  hot.  They  spread  their  blankets  and  pillows  on 
the  deck  and  lie  down  by  the  hundred.  An  awning  keeps  off  the 
sun  and  rain.  Their  clothing  is  very  simple.  An  average  outfit 
does  not  cost  over  seventy-five  cents.  They  wear  no  hat.  Their 
sandals  are  worth  about  five  cents  a pair.  They  eat  rice  and  vege- 
tables and  meat,  and  drink  tea.  They  smoke  cigarettes  or  pipes. 
Women  and  men  smoke.  They  gamble  as  continuously  as  the 
Chinese.  No  one  would  think  from  these  that  cleanliness  was  a 
national  trait.  One  is  reminded  rather  of  the  man  who  said  he 
made  it  a rule  to  wash  once  a year,  whether  he  needed  it  or  not. 
Their  babies  are  like  babies  elsewhere.  They  would  look  sweeter 
if  their  parents  would  wash  them  instead  of  shaving  their  heads. 
These  coolies  are  bone  of  our  bone  and  flesh  of  our  flesh.  It  would 
be  interesting  to  look  into  their  minds  and  learn  their  hopes,  fears, 
yearnings.  The  barrier  of  language  keeps  a stranger  afar  off.  It 
is  interesting  to  watch  the  machinery  that  never  sleeps  and  never 
tires,  the  officers  taking  the  log  and  observation,  and  the  Chinese 
scouring  the  deck  and  polishing  the  brass  and  iron,  so  that  the  ship 
is  clean  and  bright  throughout.  A cat  and  dog  below  are  great 
pets  of  the  seamen  and  of  the  passengers.  Two  men  are  in  irons. 
They  are  partially  insane,  and  are  tied  to  keep  them  from  doing 
mischief.  The  cabin  passengers  sit  on  their  easy  chairs,  and  read 
or  flirt  as  they  feel  inclined.  The  married  women  do  more  flirting 
than  the  widows  or  the  maidens.  Only  one  man  has  been  seriously 
sick,  and  he  made  no  end  of  fun  for  the  others.  He  was  a fool  to 
go  to  sea.  If  he  gets  ashore  alive,  he  will  not  venture  again.  He 
berates  the  company  for  tossing  him  about,  and  then  charging  him 
for  it.  That  is  adding  insult  to  injury.  The  purser  told  him  as 
long  as  he  could  smoke  he  was  not  very  sick.  That  was  the  straw 
that  broke  the  camel’s  back.  That  made  him  appear  a pretender. 
He  got  angry  and  got  well.  For  two  days  the  ship  rolled  a good 
deal.  The  passengers  went  tobogganing  about  the  deck.  But  no 


FROM  HONOLULU  TO  YOKOHAMA 


49 


one  was  hurt.  We  are  as  safe  as  if  we  were  on  shore.  Our  ship  is 
practically  unsinkable.  We  are  in  God’s  care  and  keeping.  He  is 
the  confidence  of  all  the  ends  of  the  earth  and  of  them  that  are 
afar  off  upon  the  sea.  No  sparrow  falls  to  the  ground  wuthout  his 
permission.  Day  after  day  we  sail  on,  seeing  no  ship  and  no  land. 
We  are  impressed  with  the  vastness  of  this  wide  ocean.  “It  is,” 
as  Byron  said,  “boundless,  endless,  and  sublime,  the  image  of 
eternity.”  As  we  watch  and  think  we  are  reminded  of  Faber’s 
sweet  lines: 

“There  is  a wideness  in  God’s  mercy, 

Like  the  wideness  of  the  sea ; 

There  is  a kindness  in  his  justice, 

That  is  more  than  charity.” 

As  we  approach  Japan  letters  are  written.  Trunks  are  packed. 
The  passengers  are  in  commotion.  Everybody  is  alive  and  alert. 
Those  who  leave  the  ship  in  Yokohama  and  those  who  do  not  are 
alike  in  earnest.  The  long  voyage  is  over.  We  are  safe  in  port. 
We  have  heard  nothing  from  the  great  world  since  the  3d  of 
August.  We  shall  soon  know  what  has  happened  in  the  meantime. 
Some  will  hear  good  news,  and  some  doleful  tidings.  But  God  is 
good  and  makes  all  things  work  according  to  the  counsel  of  his  own 
will. 


4 


VIII. 


JAPAN. 

We  cast  anchor  in  the  Bay  of  Tokyo,  August  24.  This  is  the 
bay  into  which  Commodore  Perry  steamed  in  1853.  Then  there 
were  a few  junks  to  be  seen;  now  the  Bay  is  covered  with  ships  from 
all  parts  of  the  globe.  It  was  not  long  before  a hundred  boats  came 
out  to  take  the  passengers  ashore.  Most  of  the  men  in  these  boats 
wore  only  a loin-cloth.  It  was  a strange  sight.  We  felt  that  we 
were  in  a different  world  from  the  one  we  had  left.  In  one  of  the 
boats  I saw  H.  II.  Guy  and  two  Japanese  Christians.  They  had 
been  waiting  for  us  for  three  days.  A familiar  face  in  a strange 
land  is  a pleasant  sight.  It  is  like  rivers  of  water  in  a dry  place ; 
like  the  shadow  of  a great  rock  in  a weary  land.  They  took  charge 
of  me  and  my  baggage,  and  in  a few  minutes  we  were  on  the  pier 
in  Yokohama.  We  were  not  detained  long  in  the  Custom  House. 
The  officers  did  not  ask  me  to  open  anything.  They  took  my  word 
that  I had  no  dutiable  goods  in  my  possession.  Some  did  not  fare 
so  well.  Some  wealthy  people  had  to  open  their  trunks  and  display 
all  their  finery. 

Yokohama  is  the  chief  commercial  port  of  Japan.  Ships  pass- 
ing between  Australia  and  China  and  Japan  and  America  call  here. 
Yokohama  is  the  port  of  Tokyo.  Both  cities  are  situated  on  the 
same  Bay.  Seventy- five  years  ago  Yokohama  was  a village  of 
eighty-seven  houses;  nowit  has  a population  of  110,000.  The  for- 
eign part  resembles  an  English  city.  The  streets  are  narrow ; the 
buildings  are  solid  and  unattractive ; the  business  for  the  most  part 
is  conducted  by  Englishmen.  The  merchants  are  not  there  for 
their  health  or  for  any  benevolent  purpose.  They  are  there  for  the 
money  they  can  make.  They  charge  much  more  for  their  goods 
than  men  do  at  home.  Some  of  them  are  warm  friends  of  missions 
and  illustrate  in  their  own  lives  the  truths  of  the  Gospel,  but  not 
all.  If  all  who  come  here  from  Christian  lands  were  Christians  in 
deed  and  in  truth,  the  work  of  evangelizing  Japan  would  be  much 
easier  than  it  is.  At  the  same  time  it  is  admitted  that  these  men 
have  made  a substantial  contribution  to  the  advancement  of  Japan. 
They  have  introduced  new  methods  and  new  appliances, and  have 


JAPAN 


51 


insisted  on  the  rights  and  the  worth  of  the  individual  as  the  Japa- 
nese did  not.  Yokohama  has  its  temples  and  churches  and  art 
stores  and  other  places  of  interest.  In  one  temple  an  idol  sits  on  a 
rock  amid  flames  of  fire,  having  a two-edged  sword  in  the  right 
hand  and  a rope  in  the  left.  The  meaning  is  said  to  be  this:  It 

cuts  asunder  vile  thoughts  with  the  sword,  purifies  the  mind  with 
the  fire,  ties  up  passions  with  the  rope  and  keeps  them  completely 
under  the  sway  of  reason.  How  many  worshipers  understand  this 
is  not  stated. 

A ride  of  two  miles  in  a jinricksha  brought  us  to  the  railroad 
depot.  A jinricksha  is  a little  wagon  hauled  by  a man.  The  two 
wheels  are  about  four  feet  high.  It  has  a cover  for  rainy  weather. 
The  jinricksha  was  invented  by  a missionary  who  had  a sick  wife. 
This  is  now  the  chief  means  of  going  about  in  Japan.  A man  will 
run  along  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour.  The  passenger  is 
expected  to  get  out  and  walk  up  steep  hills.  The  fare  is  three  and 
a half  cents  an  hour.  The  jinricksha  men  form  a guild.  This  is 
their  life  work.  For  a young  man  this  seems  well  enough,  but 
when  a man  gets  past  sixty  or  seventy  it  does  seem  that  he  ought  to 
have  a lighter  task.  These  little  carriages  fill  the  streets.  There 
are  thousands  of  them  in  every  city.  They  have  the  right  of  way. 
The  Japanese  seldom  drive  horses.  You  see  a few  hauling  carts  or 
serving  as  pack-horses.  But  they  are  slow,  sad  brutes.  They  do 
not  look  as  if  they  had  a spark  of  ambition  in  them.  Their  harness 
is  cumbersome  and  uncouth.  It  is  enough  to  make  a self-respect- 
ing animal  wish  he  could  hide  or  kill  himself.  The  weight  comes 
on  the  collar  and  on  the  saddle.  The  horses  used  by  the  police  and 
in  the  army  are  fine  animals.  Oxen  are  used  in  the  same  way. 
They  draw  by  a rope  fastened  about  their  necks.  If  the  load  was 
heavy  it  would  choke  them.  Horses  and  oxen  are  sometimes  shod 
with  straw  shoes.  Most  of  the  hauling  is  done  by  human  beings. 
You  can  see  them  hauling  timber,  stones,  rice  and  charcoal  in  bulk, 
iron  castings,  and  supplies  of  every  kind.  The  jinricksha  makes 
good  time,  but  it  is  not  a comfortable  carriage,  and  a passenger  is 
glad  when  he  reaches  his  destination.  A stranger  cannot  help  but 
think  of  and  pity  the  coolie  who  bears  him  along. 

A ride  of  eighteen  miles  on  a railroad  brought  us  to  Tokyo. 
The  railroad  is  of  the  English  pattern.  The  cars  are  divided  into 
compartments.  One  can  go  first,  or  second,  or  third  class.  The 
fare  is  very  reasonable.  One  can  travel  third-class  for  half  a cent  a 
mile;  second-class  for  less  than  one  cent;  or  first-class  for  less 
than  two  cents.  We  passed  through  rice,  millet,  sugar-cane  and 


52 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


cotton  fields;  along  pear  orchards  and  lotus  beds;  past  temples  and 
picturesque  villages  of  Old  Japan.  Reaching  Tokyo,  we  took  a jin- 
ricksha for  our  home,  a distance  of  four  miles.  There  is  a street 
railway  in  this  city,  but  it  did  not  go  our  way.  We  were  glad  when 
we  reached  the  mission  premises.  We  were  most  cordially  wel- 
comed by  Mrs.  Guy.  Tokyo  is  a city  of  over  a million  souls.  It 
covers  one  hundred  square  miles.  Since  the  Revolution  of  1868  it 
has  been  the  capital. 

Japan  is  called  the  Land  of  the  Rising  Sun.  The  Empire  con- 
sists of  four  large  islands  and  three  thousand  small  ones.  It  has  an 
area  of  147,000  square  miles.  It  is  about  as  large  as  California. 
The  greater  part  of  Japan  is  covered  with  mountains.  Only  about 
twelve  per  cent  of  the  land  is  cultivated,  or  can  be  cultivated. 
These  islands  are  of  volcanic  formation.  The  earthquake  shocks 
number  about  five  hundred  a year.  Rice  and  cotton  are  raised  in 
great  abundance  on  the  main  island.  Tea  and  silk  are  also  raised. 
One-half  the  value  of  all  the  exports  comes  from  raw  silk;  and  the 
larger  part  of  the  remainder  comes  from  tea.  In  the  southern 
islands  cotton,  rice,  tobacco,  sugar,  sweet  potatoes,  oranges,  yams 
and  other  fruits  of  a warm  latitude  flourish.  In  the  Shinto  tem- 
ples in  early  times  prayers  were  offered  for  the  growth  of  rice, 
millet,  barley,  beans  and  sorghum.  Millet,  barley  and  beans  are  the 
principal  articles  of  food  among  the  country  people;  with  the  city 
people  rice  is  the  great  staple.  The  land  is  always  made  to  bear 
two  crops  a year. 

Little  is  known  about  the  origin  of  the  Japanese  people.  The 
authorities  are  not  agreed.  One  man  thinks  they  are  the  descend- 
ants of  the  Ten  Tribes.  Another  thinks  they  are  of  the  same  stock 
as  our  North  American  Indians.  The  more  probable  view  is  that 
they  are  Mongols.  It  is  likely  that  they  are  a mixed  race.  The 
Ainu  wei’e  the  aborigines  of  Japan.  They  live  now  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  Empire.  They  are  a hairy  people.  Their  food  and 
clothing  and  houses  are  of  the  most  primitive  character.  They  sel- 
dom wash  themselves  or  their  clothes.  They  worship  rocks,  rivers, 
and  mountains.  They  are  afraid  of  the  spirits.  The  Mongolians 
reached  Japan,  so  it  is  .thought,  by  way  of  Korea.  They  drove  out 
or  exterminated  most  of  the  aborigines.  In  some  cases  they  inter- 
married. The  Japanese  in  the  main  have  “yellowish  skin,  the 
straight  hair,  the  scanty  beard,  the  broadish  skull,  the  more  or  less 
oblique  eyes,  and  the  high  cheek  bones,  which  characterize  all  well- 
established  branches  of  the  Mongol  I'ace.”  But  some  have  full  and 
long  beards.  Some  are  as  fair  as  if  they  were  Caucasians.  It  is 


JAPAN 


53 


with  some  difficulty  that  they  can  be  distinguished  from  them. 
The  average  height  of  the  Japanese  men  is  5.02  feet;  of  the 
women,  4.66  feet.  It  will  be  seen  that  they  are  a small  race. 
Yet  some  of  them  are  fine,  large  fellows.  The  population  of  the 
Empire  is  nearly  41,000,000.  Most  of  the  people  live  in  cities  and 
villages. 

For  more  than  a thousand  years  the  government  was  an  absolute 
monarchy.  The  Mikado  was  a descendant  of  the  Sun-Goddess,  and 
held  in  his  hand  the  supreme  authority.  He  selected  some  one  of 
his  own  sons  or  some  prince  of  the  imperial  family  to  succeed  him. 
It  was  customary  for  Mikados  to  abdicate  and  go  into  retirement. 
Thus  one  began  to  reign  when  he  was  nine  and  abdicated  when  he 
was  twenty-six.  Another  began  to  reign  at  eight  and  abdicated  at 
twenty-three.  Another  began  to  reign  at  five  and  abdicated  at 
twenty.  Another  still  began  to  reign  at  two  and  abdicated  at  four. 
There  were  as  many  as  four  or  five  Mikados  living  at  the  same  time. 
The  Mikado  that  resigned  was  said  to  ascend  to  the  rank  of  an  abdi- 
cated, Mikado.  It  often  happened  that  the  Mikado  had  no  choice 
in  the  matter.  The  men  who  had  the  power  wanted  to  keep  it  in 
their  own  hands.  If  a Mikado  began  to  assert  his  independence,  he 
was  forced  to  give  way  to  some  one  who  would  be  more  obedient  to 
his  masters.  Nominally,  the  Mikado  was  supreme;  really,  he  was  a 
puppet  in  the  hands  of  his  ministers.  One  family  monopolized  all 
the  important  offices  of  the  government  for  four  hundred  years. 
The  wives  and  concubines  of  the  emperors  were  taken  from  that 
family.  Other  families  were  jealous  of  this  one.  As  a result,  there 
were  plots  and  counterplots,  and  wars  and  rumors  of  wars.  Fur- 
thermore, it  was  customary  for  men  who  had  reached  middle  life  to 
retire.  It  was  not  deemed  becoming  for  a man  to  engage  in  the  tug 
for  wealth  and  power  till  old  age.  The  abdicated  Mikados  some- 
times had  their  wives  and  court,  and  exercised  far  more  influence 
than  while  they  were  on  the  throne. 

For  seven  hundred  years  the  government  of  Japan  was  dual. 
There  were  two  Emperors,  one  a spiritual  and  one  a tem- 
poral. The  Mikado  lived  in  seclusion  and  was  seen  by  no  one  but 
his  wives  and  ministers.  He  was  taught  that  it  was  unfitting  that  a 
descendant  of  the  gods  should  mingle  in  ordinary  earthly  affairs. 
The  administration  of  the  government  was  left  to  the  Shogun.  In 
theory  the  Mikado  was  still  the  source  of  all  authority,  but  the 
Shogun  wielded  all  power.  The  Mikado  lived  in  Kyoto;  the  Sho- 
gun lived  in  Yedo.  Sometimes  the  Shogun  was  dealt  with  as  was 
the  Mikado.  All  power  was  taken  from  him  and  was  exercised  by 


54 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


his  chief  retainers.  At  such  times  the  government  was  a triple 
one.  But  the  Shogun  was  not  a son  of  the  gods,  and  could  be  dis- 
placed by  a successful  general  of  another  clan.  This  happened 
several  times.  There  grew  up  around  the  Shogunate  a feudal  sys- 
tem. The  land  was  divided  by  the  Shogun  among  his  followers. 
By  so  doing  he  bound  them  to  his  house.  The  feudal  barons  gov- 
erned their  own  provinces.  They  assessed  and  collected  taxes, 
made  roads  and  bridges,  promoted  education,  punished  crime, 
enforced  contracts.  In  Japan  there  was  no  such  thing  as  law  ema- 
nating from  the  capital.  Below  these  feudal  barons  were  the 
Samurai.  They  were  the  fighting  class.  Below  these  again  were 
the  farmers,  artisans  and  merchants. 

Japan  was  “the  land  of  the  gods.”  Other  peoples  were  bar- 
barians, and  the  sacred  soil  must  not  be  polluted  with  their  pres- 
ence. This  could  not  continue.  China  and  California  being 
opened  to  trade,  Japan,  lying  between,  must  be  opened  also. 
There  must  be  ports  into  which  ships  could  go  in  a storm,  and  into 
which  they  could  go  for  coal  and  provisions  in  time  of  need.  The 
shipwrecked  must  be  cared  for.  The  opening  of  Japan  became  a 
necessity.  Commodore  Perry  visited  Japan  in  1853.  He  bore  a 
letter  from  President  Fillmore  to  the  Emperor.  He  had  four  ships 
in  his  squadron.  Such  a force  had  never  been  seen  in  Japanese 
waters.  The  officials  wanted  him  to  leave,  but  he  would  not  till  he 
had  executed  his  commission.  He  was  determined  to  exhaust  every 
peaceful  resource  before  resorting  to  coercive  measures.  A Japan- 
ese writer  says  that  it  was  fortunate  that  Japan  was  not  brought 
into  contact  with  the  world  earlier  than  it  was.  Had  it  been,  it 
might  have  fared  as  did  Mexico  and  Peru.  He  regards  Perry  as 
one  of  the  greatest  friends  of  humanity  the  earth  has  seen.  Unlike 
Cortes  and  Pizarro  and  Clive,  he  woke  up  a hermit  nation  without 
wounding  its  pride.  The  next  year  Perry  returned  for  an  answer  to 
the  President’s  letter.  The  upshot  of  this  expedition  was  that  a 
treaty  of  peace  and  amity  between  the  two  nations  was  formed. 
Two  ports  were  opened  for  trade;  coal  and  provisions  were  to  be 
furnished  American  ships  when  they  needed  them;  the  shipwrecked 
were  to  be  cared  for,  and  Consuls  or  agents  of  the  United  States 
were  to  be  allowed  to  settle  in  Japan.  The  Empire  being  opened 
to  our  nation,  it  must  open  its  gates  to  all.  In  dealing  with  the 
foreigners  the  right  of  the  Shogun  to  make  treaties  was  called  in 
question.  The  conservatives  gathered  about  the  Mikado  in  Kyoto. 
The  blame  of  admitting  the  hated  foreigners  and  making  treaties 
with  them  was  laid  at  the  Shogun’s  door.  Japan  was  awakening 


JAPAN 


55 


from  the  slumber  of  ages.  A dual  government  was  felt  to  be  an 
anachronism.  Feudalism  was  felt  to  be  a thing  of  the  past. 
Embassies  were  sent  to  Europe  and  America.  They  reported  what 
they  saw  and  heard.  The  Shogun  was  urged  to  resign.  He  did  so, 
and  the  office  was  abolished.  The  feudal  barons  surrendered 
powers  which  they  had  held  for  centuries.  The  Mikado  emerged 
from  the  seclusion  in  which  he  had  lived,  and  took  part  in  the 
affairs  of  the  nation.  To  emphasize  the  change  that  had  taken 
place,  he  removed  his  capital  from  Kyoto  to  Yedo,  and  changed  the 
name  of  the  city  to  Tokyo. 

The  change  could  not  stop  with  the  termination  of  the  Sho- 
gunate  and  the  feudal  system.  If  Japan  was  to  preserve  its  inde- 
pendence, it  must  have  a modern  army  and  navy;  it  must  have 
schools  of  all  grades;  it  must  have  a postal  system,  the  telegraph, 
railways;  it  must  disestablish  Buddhism  and  cease  to  persecute 
Christianity.  All  this  has  been  done,  and  much  more.  Once  all 
ships  over  fifty  tons  were  burned.  Only  the  junks  remained. 
Japan  has  now  as  fine  ships  of  war  as  any  other  nation.  Her  postal 
system  is  unexcelled.  Nor  is  this  all.  Absolutism  has  granted  a 
constitution.  The  Emperor  has  sworn  to  forego  many  of  the 
powers  claimed  by  his  predecessors.  This  ruler,  desiring  to  pro- 
mote the  welfare  of,  and  to  give  development  to,  the  moral  and 
intellectual  faculties  of  his  subjects,  and  hoping  to  maintain  the 
prosperity  of  the  state,  gave  the  constitution.  In  this  document  it 
is  said  that  no  Japanese  shall  be  arrested,  detained,  tried  or  pun- 
ished, unless  according  to  law.  The  right  of  property  of  every 
Japanese  subject  shall  remain  inviolate.  Except  in  special  cases  no 
house  shall  be  entered  or  searched  without  the  consent  of  the  owner. 
The  constitution  is  not  perfect,  but  it  is  a great  stride  in  advance. 
The  Emperor  exercises  the  legislative  power  with  the  consent 
of  the  Imperial  Diet.  He  declares  war,  makes  peace,  and  con- 
cludes treaties.  He  and  his  successors  shall  rule  in  an  unbroken 
line  for  eternal  ages.  The  suffrage  is  based  on  property  and  not  on 
manhood.  This  disfranchises  the  bulk  of  the  nation.  But  making 
all  deductions  and  abatements,  it  must  be  conceded  that  a new  day 
has  dawned  on  Japan.  And  as  revolutions  never  go  backward  we 
may  feel  sure  that  what  has  been  accomplished  is  only  an  earnest  of 
what  is  to  come. 


IX. 


MY  FIRST  SUNDAY  IN  JAPAN. 

The  morning  was  cool  and  bright.  After  breakfast  and  worship 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Guy  took  me  to  see  the  first  Sunday-school.  The 
hour  of  meeting  was  eight  o’clock.  The  school  met  in  one  of  the 
buildings  used  for  the  charity  schools.  The  first  piece  sung  was 
Knowles  Shaw’s  noble  hymn,  “Bringing  in  the  Sheaves.”  Imagine 
my  feelings  on  listening  to  a hymn  written  by  one  of  our  own  illus- 
trious men!  It  was  like  meeting  an  old  friend  in  a strange  land. 
In  his  youth,  Knowles  Shaw  was  wild  and  wayward.  He  went  to 
balls,  and  played  the  fiddle  while  the  others  danced.  This  wild  lad 
gave  his  heart  to  God.  His  was  a thorough  and  genuine  conver- 
sion. He  preached  and  won  thousands  to  the  faith.  His  sweet 
songs  have  been  naturalized  in  every  land,  and  are  sung  round  the 
globe.  He  died  in  the  prime  of  life,  but  his  work  abides.  The 
Scripture  was  read  and  prayer  offered.  Ivodaira  San,  Mrs.  Guy’s 
Bible  woman,  taught  the  children.  The  lesson  was  “ Christ  Send- 
ing Out  the  Twelve.”  The  children  responded  to  the  questions  as 
promptly  and  as  heartily  as  at  home.  This  was  my  introduction  to 
the  work  in  Japan.  Here,  in  a non-Christian  land,  children  were 
being  taught  of  God.  My  soul  was  deeply  stirred.  One  little  girl 
was  pointed  out  by  Mrs.  Guy.  Her  father  was  a soldier  and  was 
killed  in  the  war.  Her  mother  was  left  with  several  children. 
Because  of  her  poverty  she  feels  that  she  must  sell  this  child.  God 
only  knows  all  that  that  means.  If  she  is  sold,  she  will  be  doomed 
to  a life  of  shame  and  sorrow.  Such  things  are  not  uncommon  in 
this  land.  But  when  a child  that  we  have  known  and  loved  is  thus 
sold,  we  feel  differently.  Mrs.  Guy  hopes  to  be  able  to  take  this 
girl  into  her  own  home,  and  bring  her  up  in  the  nurture  and  admo- 
nition of  the  Lord. 

At  nine  o’clock  we  went  to  another  school.  The  singing  and 
the  responses  were  as  hearty  here  as  at  the  other.  The  lesson  was 
“ The  Transfiguration  of  Christ.”  Some  of  the  children  had  faces 
as  bright  and  as  full  of  interest  as  one  can  see  in  the  schools  of 
America.  They  sang  “Jesus  Loves  Me,”  and  “When  He  Com- 
eth,” as  if  they  understood  and  believed  them.  Others  were  there 

56 


3.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  M.  B.  Madden. 


1.  Dr.  Nina  Stevens. 
5.  Dr.  Verbeck. 


4.  C.  E.  Garst. 

TOKYO.  JAPAN. 


2.  Miss  VVirick. 
li.  E.  S.  Stevens. 


MY  FIRST  S VXD  AY  IX  JAP  AX 


57 


for  the  first  time.  Their  faces  were  blank  and  dull.  They  did  not 
know  what  to  expect.  A few  were  suffering  from  some  disease. 
Their  heads  wei’e  covered  with  blotches  and  knobs.  Evidently  the 
sins  of  the  fathers  are  being  visited  upon  their  children  to  the  third 
and  fourth  generations.  One  of  the  workers  testifies  that  he  is  sur- 
prised in  finding  how  much  Bible  truth  has  been  sown  by  the  chil- 
dren taught  in  the  Sunday-schools.  They  carry  the  essence  and  the 
aroma  of  the  Gospel  into  homes  that  are  closed  to  the  Bible 
women.  Parents  say  that  their  children  tell  every  night  what  they 
have  learned  in  the  Bible.  The  mother  of  one  of  the  smallest  and 
most  uninteresting  girls  told  the  missionary  that  she  had  heard 
about  Christ  from  her  little  girl,  and  wanted  to  hear  more.  So  the 
Scripture  is  fulfilled — “A  little  child  shall  lead  them.” 

At  half  past  ten  there  was  a preaching  service;  Nishioka  San 
spoke.  He  urged  his  hearers  to  bring  forth  fruits  meet  for  repent- 
ance. He  set  forth  what  the  Lord  required  of  them  as  his 

redeemed  children.  After  the  sermon  we  had  the  communion. 
We  sat  together  in  heavenly  places  in  Christ,  and  partook  of  the 
emblems  of  his  broken  body  and  shed  blood.  I trust  we  drank 
deeply  into  his  spirit  at  the  same  time.  The  service  was  orderly 
and  impressive.  The  audience  gave  earnest  heed  to  the  words  that 
were  spoken.  Though  I did  not  understand  what  was  said,  I felt, 
“Surely  God  is  in  this  place.  This  is  none  other  than  the  house  of 
God,  and  this  is  the  gate  of  heaven.”  We  were  separated  by  race 
and  by  language,  and  by  habits  of  thought  and  life,  but  we  were 
one  in  Christ.  For  in  one  Spirit  were  we  all  baptized  into  one 
body,  whether  Japanese  or  American,  and  were  all  made  to  drink 
of  one  Spirit.  I was  asked  to  say  a few  words.  Emai  San  inter- 
preted for  me.  After  the  benediction  I was  introduced  to  all 
present.  I was  assured  over  and  over  again  that  I was  a welcome 
visitor.  The  people  of  Japan  do  not  shake  hands.  The  women  do 
not  kiss  each  other.  They  salute  by  bowing  low  and  bowing 
repeatedly.  Each  strives  to  go  lower  than  the  other. 

In  the  evening  we  had  a sermon  from  Emai  San  from  the  text, 
“Blessed  are  they  that  mourn : for  they  shall  be  comforted.”  At 
this  service  a young  man  made  the  good  confession  and  was  bap- 
tized. The  audience  came  forward  to  congratulate  him.  They  did 
this  by  bowing  low  and  speaking  a few  appropriate  words.  So  the 
Gospel  runs  and  is  glorified.  The  good  seed  is  sown  at  all  hours, 
according  to  the  Divine  command : “In  the  morning  sow  thy  seed, 

and  in  the  evening  withhold  not  thine  hand;  for  thou  canst  not  tell 
which  will  prosper,  either  this  or  that,  or  whether  both  will  be 


58 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


alike  good.”  Some  may  fall  on  rocky  ground,  or  among  thorns,  or 
by  the  wayside,  but  some  will  surely  fall  on  good  ground  aud  bring 
forth  fruit  a hundred  or  a thousand  fold.  God’s  word  shall  not 
return  to  him  void,  but  shall  accomplish  that  which  he  pleases,  and 
prosper  in  the  thing  whereunto  he  has  sent  it.  There  is  in  the 
grounds  of  one  of  the  temples  in  Japan  a young  tree  growing  out  of 
a mammoth  stump.  One  is  alive  aud  vigorous;  the  other  is  dead, 
and  must  give  place  and  feed  the  new  life  that  has  grown  out  of  its 
heart.  One  must  increase;  the  other  must  decrease.  So  it  is  with 
the  Gospel  in  Japan.  It  must  prosper  and  prevail,  for  it  is  alive 
and  has  in  it  the  power  of  an  endless  life.  At  the  close  of  each 
service  the  audience  sat  down  and  engaged  in  silent  prayer  for  a 
few  moments.  This  was  better  than  if  they  had  slapped  each  other 
on  the  back,  or  proceeded  to  light  their  cigars,  or  to  talk  about  the 
baseball  score,  or  any  other  irrelevent  topic.  There  was  no  flirting- 
or  writing  of  notes.  The  young  men  did  not  take  the  young  ladies 
to  church  or  escort  them  home.  There  is  no  courtship  in  Japan. 
Marriage  is  arranged  for  by  middlemen,  and  not  by  the  parties  most 
deeply  concerned.  The  young  people  get  married,  but  they  miss  a 
deal  of  fun. 

The  audience  was  a study.  It  was  evident  that  some  were  with- 
out Christ.  Their  faces  were  hopelessly  sad.  How  could  these 
people  be  happy?  Life  with  them  is  an  incessant  struggle  after 
food  and  raiment.  The  catechism  which  they  repeat  every  morning 
is  this:  “What  shall  I eat?  What  shall  I drink?  And  where- 

withal shall  I be  clothed?  ” There  is  nothing  in  their  experience  or 
in  their  horizon  to  fill  them  with  hope  and  joy.  Their  worship  in 
the  temples  does  not  elevate  and  spiritualize  them.  The  priests  are 
no  better.  There  is  as  much  animation  in  the  face  of  a mummy  as 
there  is  in  theirs.  They  have  blank,  leathery  faces.  The  faces  of 
the  Christians  are  very  different.  The  face  of  Mrs.  Guy’s  teacher 
shines  as  the  face  of  Moses  did  when  he  came  down  from  the 
mountain.  She  has  seen  the  glory  of  the  Lord.  She  is  busily 
engaged  in  his  service  and  she  has  entered  into  his  joy.  The  Gospel 
makes  beautiful  faces.  So  it  is  said,  “ But  we  all,  with  unveiled 
face  reflecting  as  a mirror  the  glory  of  the  Lord,  are  transformed 
into  the  same  image  from  glory  to  glory,  even  as  from  the  Lord  the 
Spirit.”  The  first  convert  in  Japan  has  a handsome  face.  It  is 
intelligent  and  spiritual.  The  same  thing  is  seen  at  home.  People 
come  into  the  church,  and  their  faces  have  no  expression  and  no 
illumination.  They  look  as  if  they  were  carved  out  of  a turnip. 
After  they  are  in  harness  for  a season  they  are  transfigured.  Their 


MY  FIRST  SUNDAY  IN  JAPAN  59 

faces  look  like  porcelain  that  has  a light  within.  In  the  church 
and  on  the  street  I have  watched  the  faces  of  the  people.  The 
young  ai’e  pretty.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  girls.  They  marry 
young  and  they  age  young.  It  is  said  that  there  is  no  word  in 
Japanese  for  “old  maid.”  All  of  a marriageable  age  are  married. 
Mothers  do  not  wean  their  children  till  they  are  six  or  seven  years 
old.  Sometimes  a woman  nurses  three  children  at  the  same  time. 
Their  vitality  is  sucked  out  of  them.  Small  wonder  that  they  fade 
early  in  life.  As  they  grow  older  they  lose  the  beauty  of  youth, 
and  there  is  no  other  to  take  its  place.  One  sees  few  handsome 
faces  among  the  old  in  Japan.  In  Christian  lands  this  is  not  the 
case.  Nor  is  it  the  case  here  among  the  believers.  As  Christians 
advance  in  years  they  grow  more  handsome  and  more  attractive. 
The  hoary  head  when  found  in  the  way  of  righteousness  has  a 
glory  and  a beauty  far  surpassing  anything  that  youth  can  show. 
As  the  outward  man  perishes,  the  inward  man  is  renewed  day  by 
day. 

The  oldest  man  I met  in  the  Tokyo  church  has  a fine  face.  He 
has  been  ennobled  and  glorified  by  the  Gospel.  Some  of  the 
women  in  the  audience  had  black  teeth.  That  signifies  that  they 
are  married,  and  that  they  are  not  believers.  It  is  not  known  how 
this  abominable  custom  originated.  Perhaps  some  jealous  husbands 
compelled  their  wives  to  black  their  teeth,  as  in  other  lands  they 
cut  off  their  wives’  noses  so  that  their  neighbors  would  not  fall  in 
love  with  them.  The  present  Empress  and  the  missionaries  use 
their  influence  against  this  practice.  It  is  doomed  to  disappear. 
There  were  some  Buddhist  women  present.  The  workers  hope  that 
they  will  yet  be  won  to  the  faith.  They  are  kept  back  by  the  ties 
that  bind  them  to  the  graves  of  their  kindred  and  by  their  associa- 
tions with  the  temples.  They  are  a part  of  a great  system,  and  it  is 
not  easy  to  prevail  upon  them  to  come  out  and  take  the  conse- 
quences. Many  have  done  this  already,  and  many  more  will  cer- 
tainly do  so. 

As  we  went  to  church  and  as  we  returned  we  saw  that  there  is 
no  Sunday  in  Japan.  That  is  an  infallible  proof  that  we  are  in  a 
non-Christian  land.  The  schools,  banks,  government  offices,  and 
some  stores  in  the  Foreign  Concession  are  closed,  but  the  people  as 
a whole  work  away  as  usual.  There  is  no  difference  on  the  streets 
or  in  the  workshops  and  stores.  In  the  temples  one  day  is  like 
another.  The  only  difference  is  in  the  feast  days.  The  people  feel 
that  they  cannot  afford  to  rest  one  day  in  seven.  They  think  they 
would  starve  if  they  did.  Oue  of  the  serious  pi’oblems  the  mission- 


50 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


aries  have  to  deal  with  grows  out  of  the  non-observance  of  the 
Lord's  day.  If  a convert  is  employed  by  an  unbeliever,  his  employer 
may,  and  often  does,  insist  on  having  his  service  every  day  in  the 
week.  Should  the  servant  lose  his  place  he  may  lose  his  good  name 
at  the  same  time.  The  Japanese  work  not  only  every  day  in  the 
week,  but  early  and  late  as  well.  They  think  they  could  not  live  if 
they  worked  only  ten  hours  a day.  Merchants  are  at  their  place  of 
business  at  three  or  four  in  the  morning  and  remain  there  till  nine 
or  ten  in  the  evening,  or  even  later.  The  same  is  true,  to  a great 
extent,  of  mechanics.  True,  they  do  not  work  under  our  high 
pressure.  Flesh  and  blood  could  not  stand  that.  They  are  poor 
and  they  keep  working  constantly,  hoping  thereby  to  keep  the  wolf 
from  the  door.  With  all  her  industry  Japan  is  a poor  nation.  She 
cannot  compare  with  the  nations  that  observe  the  Lord’s  day,  and 
that  labor  ten  hours  or  less  a day.  “ It  is  vain  to  rise  up  eai'ly  and 
sit  up  late,  and  to  eat  the  bread  of  sorrows,  for  so  he  giveth  his 
beloved  sleep.”  On  Sunday  night  the  streets  were  unusually  full 
of  people,  and  the  merchants  were  selling  more  goods  than  in  the 
day.  The  explanation  given  was  that  women  of  the  middle  class, 
not  having  servants,  were  ashamed  to  be  seen  buying  and  carrying 
home  their  purchases  by  day.  They  wait  till  it  is  dark,  and  then  go 
out  and  buy  what  they  need  and  carry  it  home. 

The  cholera  officers  swarm  everywhere.  Already  17,000  have 
fallen  victims  of  this  disease  this  year.  In  Tokyo  one  hundred  die 
a day.  The  people  are  poor  and  half  starved.  They  have  no 
strength  to  withstand  the  plague.  If  they  had  robust  constitutions 
and  superabounding  vitality,  the  rate  of  mortality  would  be  very 
much  lower.  The  lack  of  proper  sanitary  conditions  has  con- 
tributed to  the  ravages  of  the  cholera.  In  some  respects  the  Jap- 
anese are  the  cleanest  people  in  the  world;  in  other  respects  they 
are  far  from  this.  They  bathe  themselves  several  times  a day. 
They  wash  and  scour  their  houses  continually.  They  think  Ameri- 
cans and  Europeans  extremely  filthy.  But  an  American  city  is  far 
cleaner  and  far  [more  wholesome  than  a Japanese.  A city  with  few 
or  no  sewers  can  not  be  clean.  The  stenches  in  certain  parts  of 
Japanese  hotels  and  homes  are  insufferable.  Where  all  the  filth 
and  offal  are  kept  rotting  under  the  same  roof  as  that  which  covers 
the  family  and  the  guests,  the  place  can  not  be  healthy.  It  is  not 
strange  that  the  Japanese  fall  beneath  this  pestilence  as  grass 
before  the  reaper.  It  would  be  strange  indeed  if  they  did  not. 

That  night  several  thoughts  were  suggested  by  the  experiences 
of  the  day.  As  in  the  first  Christian  century,  so  now  the  wise  and 


MY  FIRST  SUNDAY  IN  JAPAN 


61 


noble  and  great,  as  a class,  stand  aloof.  They  were  not  in  the  Sun- 
day-school nor  in  the  church.  They  glory  in  their  wisdom  and 
power  and  station.  They  feel  that  they  are  rich  and  need  nothing. 
A few  of  the  highest  class  have  been  won  to  the  faith.  Among 
these  are  the  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court,  several  judges  of 
the  Court  of  Appeals,  a Cabinet  Minister,  the  Vice-President  of  the 
Lower  House  and  several  members  of  the  same.  But  now,  as  then, 
God  chooses  the  things  that  are  not  to  bring  to  naught  the  things 
that  are,  that  no  flesh  should  glory  in  his  presence.  The  things 
that  are  hid  from  the  wise  and  prudent  are  revealed  unto  babes. 
“ Even  so,  Father,  for  so  it  seemed  good  in  thy  sight.”  It  is  easy 
to  see  why  our  Lord  likened  the  kingdom  of  God  to  a child.  It  is 
the  humble  and  teachable  spirit  that  enters  therein.  , 

Man  and  beast  need  one  day  in  seven  for  rest.  They  do  more 
and  live  longer  in  consequence.  Man  needs  bread,  but  he  does  not 
live  by  bread  alone.  He  has  a stomach  to  feed  and  a back  to  clothe, 
but  he  is  a soul.  We  need  time  for  thought  and  memory  and  hope. 
We  cannot  be  profitably  engaged  from  youth  to  old  age  iu  “the 
tug  for  wealth  and  power,  the  vain  low  strife  that  makes  men  mad 
and  wastes  their  little  hour.”  We  are  made  in  the  image  of  God 
and  capable  of  entertaining  thoughts  that  wander  through  eternity. 
Who  can  tell  how  much  the  Lord’s  day  has  been  worth  to  Scotland, 
to  England  and  to  America?  Who  can  tell  how  much  it  has  been 
worth  to  himself?  We  need  to  be  admonished  frequently,  for  we 
forget  so  soon.  “This  is  the  day  the  Lord  has  made;  we  will 
rejoice  and  be  glad  in  it.” 

“Thou  art  a port  protected 

From  storms  that  round  us  rise  ; 

A garden  intersected 
With  streams  of  Paradise.” 

Japan  has  taken  long  strides  in  the  right  direction,  but  Japan  is 
yet  very  far  from  being  a Christian  nation.  Some  thought  at  one 
time  that  by  the  close  of  the  present  century  the  work  of  the  mis- 
sionaries would  be  done.  Some  expected  that  Christianity  would 
be  adopted  as  the  national  religion.  This  expectation  is  not  likely 
to  be  realized.  Government  offices  and  banks  and  schools  may  be 
closed  on  Sunday  by  an  imperial  edict  or  by  an  Act  of  Parliament, 
but  not  thus  can  the  heart  of  the  nation  be  touched  and  renewed. 
The  presence  and  services  of  the  missionaries  will  long  be  needed. 
While  Japan  is  not  yet  Christian,  there  are  forces  at  work  that  are 
destined  to  effect  this  great  change.  In  the  Roman  Empire  there 
were  numerous  groups  of  believers.  The  statesmen  of  that  day  did 


D2 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


not  think  them  worthy  of  notice.  If  a historian  spoke  of  them  it 
was  with  a sneer.  Christianity  was  to  the  wise  of  that  time  “ a 
detestable  superstition.”  But  from  these  little  groups  of  believers 
influences  went  forth  that  changed  customs,  literature,  laws,  wor- 
ship, life  and  everything.  So  shall  it  be  in  Japan.  As  we  bowed 
that  night  around  the  family  altar  we  thought  of  our  Lord’s  words, 
“I  beheld  Satan  as  lightning  fall  from  heaven.”  The  victory  was 
prospective,  but  it  was  as  certain  as  if  it  had  been  an  accomplished 
fact. 

“Jesus  shall  reign  ■where’er  the  sun 
Does  his  successive  journeys  run, 

His  kingdom  spread  from  shore  to  shore 
Till  moons  shall  wax  and  wane  no  more.” 


X. 


A TRIP  TO  THE  NORTH  OF  JAPAN. 

In  order  that  I might  see  Japan  to  the  greatest  advantage  and 
in  the  shortest  time  practicable,  it  was  thought  by  the  missionaries 
that  it  would  be  well  for  me  to  visit  the  churches  in  the  north  of 
the  Empire  first;  after  that,  see  the  work  in  Tokyo  and  Yokohama; 
and  after  that  again,  see  the  leading  cities  of  the  South,  namely, 
Kobe,  Osaka,  Kyoto  and  Nagasaki.  The  first  thing  to  do  was  to 
secure  a passport.  This  can  now  be  had  for  the  asking.  No  one 
can  travel  in  Japan  or  live  outside  the- Foreign  Concessions  without 
a passport.  There  is  a reason  for  this.  If  a foreigner  should  com- 
mit any  crime,  he  cannot  be  tried  in  a Japanese  court.  If  a native 
has  a claim  against  a foreigner  the  same  is  true.  He  can  be  tried 
only  before  the  Consul  of  the  nation  to  which  he  belongs.  The 
Japanese  Government  can  not  try  him  in  its  own  courts  for  violat- 
ing its  laws,  but  it  can  recall  his  passport,  and  thereby  compel  him 
to  live  in  the  Foreign  Concession  or  leave  the  country.  Every  for- 
eigner in  Japan  is  located.  He  is  constantly  under  police  surveil- 
lance. Before  you  are  in  a hotel  five  minutes  a policeman  calls  and 
asks  to  see  your  passport.  The  proprietor  of  the  hotel  records  your 
name  and  number.  So  before  you  can  buy  a railroad  ticket  you 
must  produce  your  passport  and  thus  convince  the  agent  that  you 
have  the  Emperor’s  consent  to  travel  within  his  domain.  A child  in 
arms,  no  less  than  his  parents,  must  have  a passport  in  order  to  go 
anywhere.  When  the  new  treaties  go  into  effect  in  1899,  this  nui- 
sance will  be  abated.  Then  foreigners  can  go  and  come  at  will. 
Then,  too,  Consular  courts  will  be  abolished,  and  foreigners  and 
natives  must  appear  before  the  same  tribunals  and  answer  for  any 
charges  preferred  against  them.  Ten  years  ago  it  was  a difficult 
matter  to  get  a passport.  It  took  weeks  and  months  and  no  small 
amount  of  pressure  to  secure  this  document  from  reluctant  officials. 
Now  it  can  be  had  in  a few  minutes  and  without  any  charge  or  any 
condition. 

It  was  arranged  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Guy  should  act  as  my  escorts 
part  of  the  way.  They  are  most  agreeable  traveling  companions. 

The  baby  went  along  and  added  immensely  to  our  joy.  A little 

63 


64 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


child  makes  the  whole  world  kin.  Dignified  judges  and  lawmakers 
unbent  and  noticed  us  because  of  the  pretty  boy.  When  you  are  in 
a strange  land  and  do  not  understand  a word  of  the  language,  and 
the  people  do  not  understand  a word  of  what  you  say,  jmu  are  in  a 
helpless  and  pitiable  condition.  At  such  a time  you  find  it  hard  to 
entertain  a very  high  opinion  of  those  men  whose  misconduct  in 
building  the  Tower  of  Babel  caused  the  confusion  of  tongues.  I 
have  not  been  left  for  an  instant  without  an  interpreter,  and  so 
have  gotten  along  smoothly  enough.  Had  I been  left  without  a 
guardian  I should  have  fared  differently.  Our  first  stop  was  at 
Nikko.  Here  I had  my  first  experience  in  a Japanese  hotel.  The 
proprietor  and  his  wife  and  chief  clerk  and  all  the  servants  in  sight 
bowed  their  heads  to  the  earth  as  we  approached.  They  assured  us 
that  we  did  well  in  coming.  After  removing  our  shoes  we  were 
shown  to  our  rooms.  There  was  neither  chair  nor  table  in  sight. 
The  only  furniture  in  the  room  was  a recess  with  a scroll  hanging  in 
it.  Some  mats  were  brought  in  and  we  were  asked  to  sit  down.  I 
tried  to  sit  on  my  feet,  but  it  was  not  a brilliant  success.  Either 
my  feet  are  too  large,  or  my  backbone  is  too  long,  or  my  joints  are 
not  constructed  properly.  Perhaps  if  my  ancestors  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  sit  on  their  feet  for  “ ages  eternal,”  to  borrow  a Japanese 
phrase,  I could  do  it  as  easily  and  as  gracefully  as  the  natives,  but 
with  all  my  efforts  and  good  intentions,  I must  confess  that  I can 
not.  My  guardian  apologizes  for  me  when  guests  are  in  the  room. 
The  first  thing  brought  in  is  a tray  containing  a little  fire  and  a spit- 
toon. Smoking  is  universal  in  Japan.  The  priests  in  the  temple 
and  the  teachers  in  the  schools  and  the  people  in  the  theaters 
smoke.  The  pipe  holds  only  a pinch  of  tobacco.  Four  or  five 
puffs  exhaust  it.  The  cost  of  smoking  on  this  scale  is  not  more 
than  two  cents  a week.  They  could  not  smoke  as  Americans  do  on 
their  incomes.  The  next  thing  brought  in  is  another  tra}r  contain- 
ing tea  and  sweets.  The  cups  hold  a tablespoonful.  The  tea  is 
served  without  cream  or  sugar.  In  a Japanese  hotel  there  is  no 
dining-room  where  all  the  guests  eat.  You  eat  in  your  own  room. 
The  bill  of  fare  is  different  from  that  served  in  American  hotels. 
It  has  no  bread,  no  butter,  no  cheese,  no  potatoes,  seldom  any  meat, 
no  tea  or  coffee,  no  pepper  or  salt.  Rice  is  the  main  dish,  and  is 
cooked  and  served  without  seasoning.  Besides  rice,  you  have  fish, 
soup,  eggs  in  some  form,  and  vegetables,  either  fresh  or  pickled. 
These  last  are  intended  to  be  relishes.  Each  guest  has  his  own 
food  on  a lacquered  tray.  This  tray  is  placed  before  you  on  the 
floor.  You  find  no  knife  or  fork  or  spoon;  chopsticks  answer  all 


MRS.  GARST  AND  SCHOOL,  TOKYO,  JAPAN, 


A TRIP  TO  THE  NORTH  OF  JAPAN 


65 


purposes.  It  is  astonishing  to  see  how  deftly  a native  can  dispose 
of  any  dish  with  chopsticks.  I tried  mine.  I got  them  by  the 
wrong  end,  and  could  not  make  them  lift  anything.  When  I got  a 
piece  of  food  so  that  I could  move  it  I could  not  find  my  mouth. 
The  little  maid,  with  all  her  inborn  and  inbred  politeness,  could  not 
help  laughing  outright.  In  her  own  mind  she  set  me  down  as  a 
full-fledged  barbarian.  The  food  is  clean  and  palatable  and  digesti- 
ble. You  look  about  for  a washstand  and  find  none.  Y ou  are 
expected  to  carry  your  own  soap  and  towel  and  to  go  to  the  public 
wash-room  whenever  it  suits  your  convenience.  Travelers  carry 
their  own  pillows,  sheets,  mosquito  bar,  and  insect  powder.  The 
hotel  supplies  the  floor  and  some  rugs.  The  mats  and  thatched 
roofs  of  Japanese  houses  afford  fleas  a superb  refuge.  If  you  wish 
to  sleep  in  peace  you  must  protect  yourself.  With  all  this  protec- 
tion a bed  on  the  floor  is  not  quite  to  the  taste  of  a pampered 
American  who  has  been  accustomed  to  a mattress  with  springs 
under  it.  The  bath  is  a curiosity.  The  water  is  kept  at  a point 
near  boiling.  One  water  lasts  the  whole  day.  The  family  and 
the  guests  are  expected  to  use  it.  Some  fastidious  persons  object 
to  this  feature  of  a Japanese  bath.  Knowing  that  we  were 
likely  to  have  some  scruples  on  this  point,  the  clerk  came  to  us  and 
told  us  that  the  bath  was  ready.  We  asked  him  if  it  had  been  used 
since  it  was  filled.  He  said  that  it  had  not.  He  added  that  a 
Korean  had  been  in  it,  but  a little  thing  like  that  did  not  count 
with  him.  Before  lying  down  to  sleep  you  try  to  lock  your  room. 
You  can  not  lock  it.  Three  sides  are  screens  and  can  be  lifted  out 
bodily.  The  screens  are  made  of  paper.  There  is  no  door  with 
hinges  that  you  can  lock.  A burglar  or  a rat  could  walk  in  any 
hour  of  the  day  or  night.  You  put  your  valuables  inside  your  fly- 
net  and  sleep  the  sleep  of  the  weary.  The  people  about  the  hotel 
are  all  politeness.  They  bow  when  we  go  out,  and  assure  us  that  we 
shall  be  welcome  when  we  return.  We  come  back,  and  they  bow 
again  and  thank  us  for  our  kindness.  Fancy  an  American  hotel 
clerk  bumping  the  floor  with  the  top  of  his  head  whenever  a guest 
went  out  or  came  in ! When  we  left,  each  one  received  a present 
and  a letter  of  recommendation  to  other  hotels.  For  our  food  and 
lodging  we  paid  sixty  cents  a day.  In  other  hotels  in  the  interior 
we  paid  twenty-five  cents.  Aside  from  this  difference  in  price,  one 
hotel  is  like  another  hotel.  All  have  the  same  bill  of  fare. 

The  Japanese  have  a proverb  to  the  effect  that  no  one  ought  to 
use  the  word  “ magnificent  ” till  he  has  seen  Nikko.  Chamberlain 

says  of  this  place  that  it  has  a double  glory — a glory  of  nature  and  a 
5 


66 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


glory  of  art.  “Mountains,  cascades,  and  monumental  forest  trees, 
liad  always  stood  there.”  Japanese  artists  have  produced  there  the 
most  perfect  assemblage  of  shrines  in  the  whole  land.  One  of  the 
greatest  of  the  Shoguns,  the  founder  of  a dynasty  that  swayed 
the  destinies  of  Japan  for  two  hundred  and  fifty  years,  lies  buried 
above  the  temples.  His  gi’andson,  a man  almost  equally  renowned 
in  Japanese  history,  is  also  buried  there.  Their  family  and  fi’iends 
spared  neither  pains  nor  money  to  make  the  grounds  and  buildings 
near  their  tombs  as  magnificent  as  possible.  The  temples  are  square 
wooden  buildings.  Externally  there  is  nothing  striking  or  beautiful 
about  them.  They  do  not  compare  in  either  size  or  grandeur  with 
the  cathedrals  of  Europe.  They  were  not  built  to  accommodate 
great  audiences.  Men  and  women  go  to  Nikko  to  worship,  but  not 
in  our  sense  or  according  to  our  method.  They  pray  for  a few 
seconds  in  one  place,  and  then  hasten  on  to  another  place,  and  so 
continue  till  they  have  made  the  rounds  of  every  temple  and  pagoda 
and  shrine  within  the  inclosure.  People  do  not  visit  this  place  to 
hear  words  of  instruction  or  admonition  from  the  lips  of  some  elo- 
quent preacher.  For  this  reason  no  vast  auditorium  is  needed. 
The  glory  and  the  beauty  of  these  buildings  are  seen  within.  In  the 
Buddhist  temples  there  are  numerous  idols.  You  may  see  the 
Buddha  in  pure  gold,  and  the  Goddess  of  Mercy,  and  Fudo,  and 
many  others.  On  the  walls  and  on  the  ceilings  are  the  works  of  the 
most  famous  Japanese  artists.  They  have  carved  lions,  tigers, 
dragons,  cats,  flowers  and  trees  of  almost  every  kind,  birds  and 
sages.  In  one  group  there  are  three  monkeys.  One  has  his  hands 
on  his  eyes,  another  on  his  ears,  another  on  his  mouth.  The  lesson 
is  that  a good  man  should  have  neither  eyes  nor  ears  nor  mouth  for 
evil  things.  In  one  shrine  we  saw  the  sacred  horse.  One  of  the 
gods  of  the  place  rides  on  him  when  he  goes  out.  We  inquired  as 
to  his  pedigree  and  age  and  record  and  value,  but  could  get  no 
answers.  He  is  selected  because  he  has  four  white  feet.  More 
magnificent  than  the  temples  and  the  grounds  are  the  trees  in  and 
about  Nikko.  There  is  an  avenue  of  white  cedars  which  extends 
for  twenty  miles  toward  Tokyo.  Along  this  avenue  the  mighty  Sho- 
guns were  borne  by  their  retainers  when  they  went  to  Nikko  to 
worship  the  gods  and  to  make  offerings  to  the  spirits  of  their  ances- 
tors. There  are  tens  of  thousands  of  those  noble  trees  about  the 
grounds.  They  lift  their  massive  trunks  a hundred  feet  or  more 
into  the  air.  It  is  a most  glorious  vision.  We  stayed  there  a day 
longer  than  we  expected  because  we  heard  that  some  friends  were 
on  their  way  to  Nikko  to  see  us. 


A TRIP  TO  THE  NORTH  OF  JAPAN 


67 


Our  next  stop  was  at  Hanobuchi.  The  Garst  family  were 
spending  a few  weeks  there.  Miss  Alice  Miller  and  W.  K.  Azbill 
were  visiting  them.  We  had  a warm  welcome.  The  house  in 
which  we  ate  and  slept  and  talked  cost  only  sixty  dollars,  but  we 
were  as  comfortable  and  as  joyful  as  if  we  had  been  in  a palace. 
Several  missionaries  from  Sendai  and  the  region  round  about  were 
spending  their  vacation  at  this  place.  They  asked  me  to  speak  to 
them  on  Sunday  afternoon.  After  the  service  we  walked  over  to  a 
Shinto  temple  and  some  shrines  in  a grove  about  a mile  distant. 
This  temple  is  said  to  be  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  old.  In  one 
small  shrine  there  is  a wooden  horse.  His  worshipers  have  thrown 
in  beside  him  about  fifty  pairs  of  straw  shoes.  The  rice  placed  in 
bis  manger  supplies  the  mice  and  rats  with  food.  On  the  way 
borne  we  walked  through  the  village.  The  people  are  fishermen 
and  farmers.  The  children  ran  about  the  streets  naked.  The  men 
and  women  wore  scant  clothing.  The  dogs  barked  at  us  as  if  we 
were  intruders.  On  our  return  we  canvassed  the  situation.  It  was 
agreed  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Garst  should  go  with  me  to  Akita  and  the 
adjacent  towns.  They  had  lived  in  the  North,  and  knew  the  people 
and  the  roads. 

Monday  morning  we  were  off.  That  night  we  reached  the  point 
where  we  were  to  leave  the  railroad.  On  reaching  our  hotel  a 
policeman  called  to  inspect  our  passports.  He  had  hardly  gone 
when  the  hotel  clerk  came  in  and  asked  permission  to  record  the 
same.  He  spent  twenty  minutes  examining  the  outside  of  the 
envelopes.  Not  finding  what  he  wanted,  he  touched  the  floor  with 
the  top  of  his  head,  and  asked  if  he  might  examine  the  contents  of 
the  envelopes.  He  asked  our  ages  and  caste.  He  was  told  that  we 
belonged  to  the  heavenly  caste.  After  an  hour  or  so  he  took  his 
leave.  About  midnight  he  was  back  again.  He  begged  to  see  our 
passports  once  more.  The  names  of  the  Garst  children  were  on 
both  passports,  and  the  children  were  not  present.  That  fact  must 
be  reported  to  the  authorities  in  Tokyo. 

The  next  moiming  we  were  in  our  jinrickshas  at  six.  We 
reached  our  destination  a little  after  midnight.  We  made  fifty 
miles  that  day.  We  had  two  men  each,  and  changed  men  eight 
times.  Most  of  the  day  we  were  climbing  the  mountains.  The 
scenery  is  as  fine  as  can  be  found  in  West  Virginia.  The  roads 
are  well  made.  The  bridges  are  narrow  and  slight.  No  heavy 
loads  pass  over  them.  At  one  town  on  the  way  we  met  two 
believers,  and  had  a service  with  them  in  the  hotel.  One  is  a trav- 
eling merchant.  They  were  urged  to  be  ready  for  every  good  work. 


68 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


Opportunities  are  constantly  presenting  themselves;  they  were 
taught  to  be  prepared  to  make  the  most  of  them.  The  day  was  the 
Shinto  “All  Saints’  Day.”  It  was  the  day  for  making  offerings  at 
the  graves  of  their  ancestors  and  for  feasting  and  for  attending  the 
temples.  Such  a day  usually  ends  with  a general  spree.  For  this 
reason  we  found  it  difficult  toward  evening  to  get  men.  By  patient 
and  persistent  effort  we  succeeded.  We  reached  our  hotel  a little 
weary,  but  thankful  that  no  evil  had  befallen  us,  and  that  this  was 
the  point  for  which  we  started.  On  Wednesday  we  left  Yuzawa 
for  Innai,  a town  twenty  miles  distant.  We  visited  the  public 
school  of  this  place.  One  of  the  Akita  Christians  teaches  here. 
When  she  was  studying  the  claims  of  Christianity,  she  sat  up  late 
on  winter  nights  without  any  fire.  Her  father  asked  her  why  she 
did  so.  She  said  she  would  go  to  sleep  if  she  was  warm.  As  long 
as  she  was  cold  she  would  keep  awake.  There  are  seven  teachers 
and  four  hundred  pupils  in  this  school.  As  long  as  we  were  in 
sight  the  children  yelled  with  all  their  might.  Probably  we  were 
the  first  Caucasians  they  had  seen.  Our  visit  was  an  event  in  their 
lives.  We  were  introduced  to  the  principal  and  to  several  of  his 
assistants.  He  smoked  his  pipe  and  drank  his  tea,  and  paid  very 
little  attention  to  us.  He  bowed  very  slightly  when  we  entered  and 
when  we  left.  He  feels  as  large  as  the  Mikado.  Perhaps  he  is. 
Innai  is  a mining  town.  Kudo  San  is  the  evangelist.  Besides 
preaching,  he  has  a school  of  seventy  scholars.  The  audience  at 
this  point  was  made  up  mostly  of  young  men.  They  were  really 
fine-looking  fellows.  The  address  was  based  on  the  words,  “I 
have  written  unto  you,  young  men,  because  ye  are  strong,  and  the 
word  of  God  abideth  in  you;  and  ye  have  overcome  the  evil  one.” 
In  the  midst  of  a rough  population  these  young  men  live  so  that 
their  lives  commend  the  Gospel  to  the  people.  As  one  result,  the 
community  is  becoming  more  favorable  to  Christianity.  As 
another  result,  believei’s  are  being  added  to  the  Loi’d.  We  ai’e  told 
that  the  church  is  made  up  of  young  men,  because  the  young  are 
more  easily  won  than  the  old.  It  is  made  up  mostly  of  men, 
because  no  Bible  woman  has  been  here  to  work  among  the  women. 
After  the  service  we  returned  to  Yuzawa  and  had  a second  service 
there.  The  teacher  whom  we  saw  in  the  moniing  came  back  with 
us.  She  traveled  forty  miles  that  she  might  join  in  the  sei’vice. 
Thei’e  are  two  or  three  believers  in  this  place.  They  meet  to  break 
bread.  Yuzawa  is  a dark  place.  The  believers  were  exhoi-ted  to  let 
their  light  shine.  The  next  morning  we  were  on  the  road  before 
suni’ise.  We  wanted  to  make  fifty  miles,  but  fell  short  five.  It 


A TRIP  TO  THE  NORTH  OF  JAPAN 


69 


was  election  day,  and  the  politicians  were  about.  Many  of  the  men 
were  still  drunk,  and  we  could  not  go  as  far  as  we  wished. 

On  Friday  we  went  to  Arakawa.  The  church  in  this  place  has 
quite  a history.  A Christian  from  Akita  went  there  to  work  in  the 
mines.  By  his  zeal  and  devotion  he  led  another  to  Christ.  These 
two  won  others.  They  built  a little  chapel.  The  owner  of  the 
mine  is  a zealous  idolater.  He  is  a plutocrat  and  owns  the  place. 
They  were  obliged  to  build  outside  the  gate.  The  most  zealous  of 
these  men  was  dismissed  on  account  of  his  preaching.  He  was 
gone  a year,  but  is  now  back  again.  AATe  had  a service  here.  The 
address  was  based  on  the  words,  “ Be  thou  faithful  unto  death,  and 
I will  give  thee  a crown  of  life.”  That  evening  we  left  for  Akita, 
I’eaching  it  about  nine  o’clock. 

On  Saturday  morning  we  visited  the  school  and  spoke  a few 
words  to  them.  In  the  afternoon  we  went  down  to  the  seaport  of 
Akita  and  spoke  in  the  chapel.  The  audience  was  large.  Noto 
San  is  the  evangelist.  He  is  a baker  and  lives  near  by.  On  the 
way  home  we  visited  the  cemetery  whei’e  Mrs.  Josephine  AY.  Smith 
is  buried,  and  scattered  some  flowers  on  her  grave.  This  saintly 
woman  was  born  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  died  here.  In  her  life  of 
purity  and  devotion  we  see  the  best  imitation  of  the  Christ.  In 
her  case 

“Love  took  up  the  harp  of  life 

And  smote  the  cords  with  might ; 

Smote  the  cord  of  self  that,  trembling, 

Passed  in  music  out  of  sight.” 

At  night  the  church  gave  us  a reception. 

The  next  morning  we  went  to  Sunday-school.  Afterwards  we 
had  a preaching  service.  The  sermon  was  suggested  by  the  text, 
“Be  perfected;  be  comforted;  be  of  the  same  mind;  live  in  peace: 
and  the  God  of  love  and  peace  shall  be  with  you.”  There  was  a 
meeting  for  women  in  the  afternoon,  led  by  Mrs.  Garst.  In  the 
evening  Mr.  Garst  preached.  At  both  services  I spoke  briefly. 
AATe  had  a good  day.  Akita  is  the  place  in  which  our  work  in 
Japan  began.  Here  the  first  church  was  organized.  Here  the 
children  built  the  Josephine  AV.  Smith  Memorial  Chapel.  From 
this  point  the  work  branched  out  into  other  centers. 

Monday  morning  we  took  our  leave  of  Akita  and  started  for 
Honjo.  Our  road  was  between  the  mountains  and  the  Sea  of 
Japan.  The  country  is  poor;  the  people  are  chiefly  fishermen. 
Part  of  the  day  we  rode  in  an  omnibus.  The  horse  was  emaciated. 
A boy  went  along  to  hold  his  head  steady  and  to  help  him  up  hill. 
AYe  walked  most  of  the  way.  This  outfit  is  inspected  and  approved 


70 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


by  the  government  every  month.  We  were  over  four  hours  making 
twelve  miles.  We  saw  this  horse  fed.  His  dinner  consisted  of 
dirty  water  tinctured  with  meal.  The  owner  does  not  know  that  a 
horse  cannot  thrive  on  a cold  bath  and  on  such  thin  gruel.  If  this 
company  could  see  a horse  at  his  best  estate,  and  know  what  he  is 
in  strength,  in  speed,  and  in  beauty,  they  would  not  send  out  such 
animals  as  they  now  have  to  distress  their  patrons.  In  Honjo, 
Tashiro  San  is  in  charge  of  the  work.  He  is  a man  of  good  repute, 
and  deservedly  so.  The  church  here  has  had  some  trouble.  An 
evil-minded  man  sought  to  get  possession  of  the  property.  He  was 
defeated  in  the  courts,  but  the  fact  that  a suit  was  brought  dam- 
aged the  work.  The  believers  were  urged  to  hold  fast  the  begin- 
ning of  their  confidence  unto  the  end.  We  were  assured  that  a 
better  day  is  dawning.  It  took  us  a day  and  a half  to  reach  Shonai. 
Here  we  had  a service  in  the  chapel.  Here  the  Garst  family  spent 
four  happy  years.  Their  former  friends  were  delighted  to  see 
them.  The  work  at  this  point  received  a great  impetus  from  the 
conversion  of  a drunkard.  The  people  said  that  a religion  that 
could  work  such  a change  must  be  true.  It  took  us  two  days  more 
to  reach  Sendai,  and  one  day  more  to  reach  Tokyo. 

On  this  long  trip  into  the  country  we  got  a better  knowledge  of 
Japanese  life  than  we  could  have  gotten  had  we  stayed  in  the  large 
cities.  In  the  cities  the  people  are  adopting  foreign  ways.  They 
dress  and  live  in  many  respects  as  Americans  and  Europeans. 
Where  we  were  they  live  very  much  as  they  did  before  the  advent 
of  Commodore  Perry  and  the  entrance  of  foreign  ideas.  We  were 
able  to  get  a more  accurate  view  of  mission  work  as  a whole  than 
we  could  have  gotten  otherwise.  We  saw  many  proofs  of  the  fact 
that  the  leaven  of  the  Gospel  is  at  work.  Ten  years  ago  the  hotels 
would  not  entertain  a missionary.  They  pretended  that  they  xvere 
full.  Now  they  are  anxious  for  his  patronage.  A priest  in  a 
remote  village  told  one  of  our  men  that  his  temple  and  its  services 
were  a part  of  the  Jehovah  worship.  An  old  man  in  the  same 
place  was  asked  if  there  was  any  prospect  that  the  people  would 
soon  give  up  the  worship  of  the  Fox-god.  He  said:  “If  you  will 

come  and  preach  a few  sermons,  I think  they  will.”  The  Bible  is 
read  in  all  parts  of  the  Empire.  The  people  are  glad  to  get  a copy. 
At  nearly  every  place  we  visited  we  heard  of  some  who  are  inquir- 
ing about  Christianity.  We  met  and  talked  with  several  of  this 
class.  We  learned  of  some  baptisms  at  different  points.  The 
Japanese  move  from  place  to  place  a great  deal.  Many  of  them 
exemplify  the  Gospel  in  their  own  lives  and  press  its  claims  upon. 


A TRIP  TO  THE  NORTH  OF  JAPAN 


71 


their  associates.  Beyond  question  the  truth  is  spreading.  The 
picture  is  not  all  bright.  We  heard  of  some  who  have  gone  back. 
Iniquity  abounds,  and  it  is  not  strange  that  the  love  of  some  grows 
cold.  Nothing  saddens  the  heart  of  a missionary  like  the  apostasy 
of  his  own  children  in  the  faith.  This  trial  is  not  peculiar  to 
Japan. 

In  the  farming  districts  the  people  do  not  live  on  their  farms, 
but  are  grouped  in  villages.  They  go  out  to  their  work  in  the 
morning,  and  return  to  their  homes  in  the  evening.  As  rice  is  the 
main  crop,  and  as  rice  grows  in  water,  perhaps  this  arrangement  is 
a necessary  one.  One  of  the  hindrances  to  the  spread  of  the  Gos- 
pel among  the  farmers  grows  out  of  this  fact.  The  village  is  a 
unit.  There  is  almost  no  individuality  among  the  people.  If  a 
man  does  not  join  in  the  worship  in  the  temple  and  in  the  grave- 
yard, and  participate  in  the  feasts,  he  is  in  danger  of  being  boy- 
cotted. If  each  man  lived  on  his  own  farm,  he  would  be  more 
independent.  This  is  one  reason  why  so  few  farmers  have  been 
won  to  the  faith.  In  the  cities  it  is  different.  There  one’s  circle 
of  acquaintances  is  small.  There  even  neighbors  know  very  little 
and  care  almost  nothing  about  each  other.  Nevertheless,  among 
the  farmers  there  are  some  who  have  heard  and  believed  and  have 
been  baptized.  One  of  our  evangelists  is  at  work  among  this  class. 
He  is  a man  of  uncommon  earnestness.  Once  he  was  dissipated. 
After  his  conversion  he  resolved  that  he  would  serve  the  Lord  with 
as  much  zeal  and  fidelity  as  he  had  served  the  devil.  He  is  a burn- 
ing and  shining  light.  His  field  is  a large  one.  His  reports  are 
encouraging.  Under  the  preaching  of  the  Gospel  these  farming 
communities  will  be  reached  as  a whole.  Then  they  will  abandon 
idolatry,  and  accept  Christianity  in  a body. 

We  saw  and  heard  something  of  the  poverty  of  the  people. 
Miners  earn  not  more  than  fifty  dollars  a year.  This  is  not  a large 
sum  if  one  has  a family  to  support.  Thousands  of  skilled  laborers 
earn  no  more  than  this.  Rice  is  cheap,  to  be  sure,  and  many  have 
little  else.  The  money  used  shows  the  same  thing.  There  are 
coins  representing  a tenth  of  a cent.  In  the  hotels  and  temples  and 
elsewhere  we  saw  great  quantities  of  copper.  It  would  seem  as  if 
most  of  the  business  was  done  with  this  kind  of  currency.  In  Cali- 
fornia at  one  time  the  smallest  coin  in  use  was  a quarter  of  a dollar. 
Money  was  abundant.  The  community  was  prosperous.  The 
houses,  as  a rule,  are  small  and  cheap.  They  did  not  cost  more 
than  two  hundred  dollars  on  an  average.  Many  of  them  did  not 
cost  a third  of  that  sum.  In  some  large  towns  most  of  the  shingles 


72 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


on  the  roofs  are  held  in  place  by  cobble-stones.  The  roofs  are 
paved  and  resemble  streets.  One  man  said  to  us  that  in  time  of 
Hood  these  stones  held  the  house  on  its  foundation;  but  in  an 
earthquake  they  were  a source  of  peril  to  the  family.  We  called  to 
see  one  family.  We  found  three  old  people  living  in  a shed  five 
feet  wide  and  eight  feet  long.  How  they  live  at  all  is  a mystery. 
Thousands  must  lie  down  hungry  every  night. 

In  Akita  we  saw  a class  of  people  that  interested  us  exceedingly. 
They  were  once  called  Eta.  The  word  signifies  non-human.  They 
were  supposed  to  be  below  the  level  of  humanity.  They  were  said 
to  be  the  descendants  of  Korean  prisoners.  They  made  their  living 
by  digging  the  graves  of  criminals,  and  by  killing  and  skinning  cat- 
tle. In  1871  there  were  nearly  300,000  Eta  in  the  Empire.  Then 
they  were  raised  to  the  rank  of  human  beings  by  an  imperial  edict. 
Their  political  disabilities  were  removed,  but  they  are  still  socially 
ostracised.  Men  are  not  restored  to  their  original  position  in  this 
way.  At  the  time  of  the  Revolution  there  were  about  a million  out- 
casts in  Japan.  For  these  Christ  died,  and  to  them  the  Gospel  of 
his  grace  comes  with  its  offer  of  peace  and  joy  and  eternal  life. 

The  land  is  full  of  idols  and  superstition.  In  the  treaty  ports 
the  people  have  lost  faith  in  the  old  religions,  and  have  not  yet 
accepted  the  Gospel.  This  is  true  especially  of  the  student  class. 
But  in  the  interior  this  is  not  the  case.  The  present  condition  of 
Japan  reminds  one  of  the  times  in  Israel,  when  on  every  high  place 
and  under  every  green  tree  there  were  idols  of  some  kind.  We  saw 
temples  and  shrines  and  images  of  the  Buddha,  and  sacred  tablets 
everywhere.  The  Fox-god  seems  to  be  exceedingly  popular.  We 
met  some  women  going  to  a distant  temple.  We  learned  that  they 
felt  that  they  would  not  be  human  beings  at  all  if  they  did  not  make 
a pilgrimage  to  this  place.  We  met  a man  carrying  a shrine  on  his 
back.  The  people  could  make  offerings  without  leaving  their 
homes  or  their  work.  He  would  recite  a prayer  for  a money  con- 
sideration. One  man  carried  about  a lion’s  head  to  eat  up  the 
cholera  germs.  He  would  save  any  family  if  they  would  pay  his 
price.  In  the  temple  we  found  some  eating  rice  and  drinking  sake 
and  gossiping.  Others  were  beating  drums  and  repeating  prayers. 
There  is  much  yet  to  be  done.  Those  who  have  no  faith  and  those 
whose  faith  is  erroneous  must  be  guided  into  all  truth. 

The  Japanese  eat  little  animal  food;  in  former  days  they  ate 
almost  none.  This  abstinence  is  one  of  the  fruits  of  Buddhism. 
The  founder  of  this  system  used  to  sweep  the  ground  before  he  sat 
down  lest  he  should  kill  or  injure  some  living  creature.  He  taught 


A TRIP  TO  THE  NORTH  OF  JAPAN 


73 


his  followers  that  it  was  wrong  to  take  life  to  supply  man’s  need. 
Fish  was  allowed  for  the  hardness  of  man’s  heart  only.  In  the  tour 
through  the  country,  extending  over  ten  days,  we  saw  many  horses, 
only  two  or  three  cows,  a few  chickens,  but  no  pig  and  no  sheep. 
In  one  place  we  inquired  for  beef,  and  were  told  that  we  could  not 
have  any  for  two  days.  That  was  in  a town  of  ten  thousand  peo- 
ple. In  another  place  we  tried  to  get  a chicken,  but  failed.  Until 
recently,  chickens  were  kept  as  time-keepers.  Their  crowing 
announced  the  dawn.  The  only  sheep  and  pigs  I have  seen  in 
Japan  are  in  the  zoological  gardens  in  Tokyo. 

Living  apart  so  long  the  Japanese  know  nothing  of  the  progress 
made  by  other  nations.  They  do  not  use  animals  and  wind  and 
water  and  steam  and  electricity  to  bear  their  burdens  and  to  do 
their  work.  They  have  horses  now,  but  they  are  not  used  exten- 
sively. Away  from  the  railways  the  mail  is  carried  in  a hand-cart 
or  on  a man’s  shoulder.  Charcoal,  rice,  sand,  stone,  timber,  and 
almost  everything  else  is  transported  in  the  same  way.  It  is  not  an 
uncommon  thing  to  see  two  men  or  a man  and  his  wife  hauling  a 
load  of  some  kind.  We  met  a man  and  a woman  hauling  stone.  The 
woman  pulled  with  a breast-strap  and  carried  her  infant  on  her  back. 
We  saw  men  and  women  carrying  fire-wood,  and  hay  and  vegetables. 
We  traveled  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  wagons  propelled 
by  human  strength.  The  men  sweat  as  if  they  were  in  a furnace. 
All  the  while  one  feels  disposed  to  get  out  and  walk.  This  is  a 
painful  method  of  travel.  Cheap  as  coolie  labor  is,  one  can  ride  on 
the  best  railway  in  the  world  for  a third  of  what  it  costs  to  ride  in 
these  little  wagons.  The  worry  is  considerable.  You  reach  a place 
and  are  told  that  there  are  no  men.  You  are  asked  if  you  are  in  a * 
hurry,  and  if  you  wish  one  man  or  two.  If  you  are  in  a hurry,  you 
will  be  told  that  if  you  are  willing  to  pay  for  two  men  you  can  get 
one.  If  men  are  present  they  must  have  time  to  think  whether  they 
will  go  on  to-day  or  wait  till  to-morrow.  One  would  think  that 
they  would  be  glad  to  go  at  once.  But  these  men  are  never  in  a 
hurry.  Haste  is  undignified.  At  every  turn  you  must  pay  extra. 
The  foreigner  is  rich  and  can  be  “ squeezed.”  Give  one  man  a tip 
and  you  must  give  every  man  a tip.  The  news  will  be  passed  all 
along  the  line.  It  would  seem  that  these  men  would  be  ambitious 
to  make  a reputation  for  promptness  and  efficiency.  What  do  they 
care  for  reputation!  They  have  lived  from  hand  to  mouth  all  their 
days.  Years  of  oppression  have  taken  all  heart  and  all  hope  out  of 
them.  Several  times  Mr.  Garst  told  them  that  a traveler  from 
across  the  seas  was  present,  and  that  they  owed  it  to  Japan  to  con- 


74 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


tribute  to  his  progress  and  comfort,  so  that  he  might  get  a favor- 
able impression  of  the  country.  Strange  to  say,  this  appeal  to 
their  pride  succeeded  when  everything  else  failed.  Sometimes  we 
had  to  resort  to  the  police.  They  wear  the  chrysanthemum,  the 
badge  of  the  Emperor,  and  their  word  is  law.  We  felt  relieved 
when  we  reached  the  railroad,  and  realized  that  the  “squeezing” 
was  over. 

There  were  many  pleasant  things  about  this  trip.  The  believers 
came  out  to  meet  us,  and  to  see  us  off.  They  were  glad  we  came, 
and  assured  us  that  our  visit  would  do  good,  and  that  their  prayers 
and  good  wishes  would  follow  us  all  our  days.  My  companions  left 
nothing  undone  that  could  add  to  my  comfort.  C.  E.  Garst,  by  his 
knowledge  of  the  people  and  their  language,  by  his  unfailing  good 
humor  and  patience,  helped  me  much.  On  a long  journey  like  this 
one,  a woman  that  can  speak  and  pray  and  sing  and  interpret  and 
cook  and  make  the  best  of  everything,  is  a treasure  indeed.  One 
thing  tried  me.  I have  sat  on  my  feet  and  looked  happy  when  suf- 
fering torture;  I have  eaten  soup  with  chopsticks;  I have  parboiled 
myself  in  hot  baths;  I have  touched  the  ground  with  the  top  of  my 
head  a hundred  times  in  a day;  but  nothing  has  tried  me  so  much 
as  speaking  while  sitting  on  the  floor,  and  through  an  interpreter. 
It  is  as  natural  for  a man  to  stand  up  when  he  has  anything  to  say,  as 
it  is  for  him  to  sit  down  when  he  is  through.  The  human  organism 
is  a galvanic  battery,  and  the  mind  works  best  when  it  has  two 
ground  connections.  The  audiences  were  so  attentive  that  speak- 
ing in  any  posture  was  not  so  difficult  as  otherwise  it  would  have 
been.  We  reached  Tokyo  late  Saturday  night  in  good  health  and 
in  good  spirits,  and  thankful  that  we  had  been  permitted  to  make 
this  trip. 


XI. 


A WEEK  IN  TOKYO. 

On  the  Sunday  after  returning  to  Tokyo  from  the  trip  in  the 
north,  I worshiped  in  three  places.  In  the  early  morning  I visited 
the  chapel  in  which  J.  M.  McCaleb  preaches,  and  spoke  briefly. 
He  has  a neat  and  convenient  place  of  worship,  and  is  doing  a good 
work.  There  was  a feast  in  that  part  of  the  city  at  the  time. 
Lanterns  and  banners  were  hung  out  in  front  of  almost  every 
house.  The  streets  were  full  of  people.  The  boys  were  as  noisy  as 
at  home  on  a national  holiday.  The  people  within  were  revei’ent 
and  attentive.  Each  had  a Bible  and  followed  the  leader  when  he 
read  or  referred  to  passages.  After  an  hour  spent  there  we  went  to 
the  chapel  in  charge  of  H.  H.  Guy.  This  is  the  building  that  Miss 
Wirick  erected  with  money  saved  out  of  a modest  salary.  Here  I 
spoke  on  the  new  life  in  Christ.  One  of  the  evangelists  interpreted 
for  me.  In  the  evening  I went  to  the  chapel  in  charge  of  E.  S. 
Stevens.  In  nearly  every  ward  of  this  great  city  the  Gospel  is 
preached  every  week.  The  buildings,  as  a rule,  are  neither  large 
nor  costly.  They  do  not  begin  to  compare  in  these  respects  with 
the  temples.  But  in  them  the  message  of  salvation  is  proclaimed, 
and  therefore  they  are  worth  more  to  the  Japanese  than  all  their 
Buddhist  temples  and  Shinto  shrines.  One  is  a savor  of  life  unto 
life;  the  other  is  a savor  of  death  unto  death.  Strange  feelings 
come  over  one  while  sitting  in  one  of  these  chapels  in  this  great 
city.  Outside  the  people  are  engaged  in  their  secular  occupations. 
The  majority  do  not  know  and  do  not  care  to  inquire  concerning 
the  new  faith.  But  Jesus  Chi’ist  is  destined  to  reign  over  Tokyo, 
and  over  Japan.  The  institutions  of  this  Empire  shall  be  tilled 
with  his  spirit,  and  the  people  shall  serve  him. 

The  next  day  we  called  to  see  Miss  Rioch’s  work.  She  has 
charge  of  the  Girls’  Home.  There  are  nine  girls  under  her  care. 
They  are  being  educated  to  serve  as  Bible  women.  Should  they  not 
devote  their  lives  to  this  work,  they  will  become  Christian  wives 
and  mothers.  Some  of  these  girls  are  from  Christian  homes,  and 
some  are  not.  They  themselves  are  all  Christians,  most  of  them 

having  turned  to  the  Lord  since  they  entered  the  Home.  For  their 

75 


16 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


secular  education  they  go  to  the  government  schools.  In  the  Home 
they  are  under  Christian  influence  and  receive  Biblical  instruction. 
At  present  they  are  studying  the  Life  of  Christ.  They  do  all  their 
own  work,  the  matron  overseeing  and  giving  instruction  when  nec- 
essary. They  learn  to  cook,  sew,  wash,  nurse  the  sick,  and  many 
other  things.  In  this  way  they  are  prepared  to  become  good  house- 
keepers, and  while  serving  as  Bible  women  they  will  be  prepared  to 
turn  their  hands  to  almost  anything.  They  dress  and  live  in 
Japanese  style.  No  attempt  is  made  to  denationalize  them.  They 
are  Christians,  but  not  American  Christians.  Their  field  of  work 
is  here,  and  it  is  for  it  they  are  prepared.  In  her  work  Miss  Rioch 
is  aided  by  Mrs.  Gai’st,  Miss  Johnson,  and  Messrs.  Guy  and 
Stevens.  Each  one  teaches  an  hour  a week.  The  course  of  study 
at  present  is  the  Old  Testament  in  Outline,  the  Life  of  Christ, 
Geography,  Church  History,  and  Methods  of  Work.  Under  the 
last  head  the  girls  are  taught  how  to  approach  the  people,  and  how 
to  answer  their  objections  to  the  Christian  religion.  All  the  more 
advanced  girls  teach  classes  in  the  Sunday-schools.  Thus  every  day 
in  their  school  life  they  are  influencing  those  around  them  for  good, 
and  when  they  can  they  tell  them  of  the  Savior  who  died  for 
them.  When  the  new  building  is  completed,  this  work  will  be 
enlarged. 

On  Tuesday  morning  we  visited,  by  request  of  W.  K.  Azbill,  one 
of  the  famous  schools  for  girls  in  Japan.  At  his  suggestion  the 
President  and  Faculty  invited  me  to  deliver  an  address  before  the 
whole  school.  President  Iwamoto  is  a man  of  ability,  culture, 
position  and  moral  worth.  He  is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  fore- 
most teachers  in  the  Empire.  He  is  not  only  a teacher,  but  a 
preacher,  and  an  editor  as  well.  His  school  is  one  of  the  best  of 
its  kind  in  Japan.  It  is  a Christian  school  of  high  grade.  The 
President  is  an  earnest  advocate  of  self-support  in  all  such  institu- 
tions. He  could  easily  get  foreign  aid  in  case  he  was  willing  to 
place  the  school  under  foreign  control.  This  he  is  not  willing  to 
do.  The  teachers  work  for  very  small  pay.  If  any  can  donate  their 
services  they  cheerfully  do  so.  W.  K.  Azbill,  Miss  Alice  Miller  and 
K.  Ishikawa  are  on  the  staff  of  teachers.  We  had  a very  pleasant 
visit  with  the  President  and  his  accomplished  wife.  She  has  trans- 
lated some  of  the  works  of  Charles  Dickens  into  Japanese,  and  has 
done  much  other  literary  work.  She  conducts  a department  in  the 
Japanese  Evangelist.  Professor  Azbill  took  us  through  the  build- 
ings and  over  the  grounds.  He  showed  us  the  rooms  in  which  he 
lives,  and  the  chapel  in  which  he  and  his  associate  preach  every 


A WEEK  IX  TOKYO 


77 


Sunday.  He  took  us  to  the  lot  which  he  has  purchased,  and  upon 
which  he  hopes  to  build  a chapel  in  the  near  future. 

On  the  way  back  we  called  to  see  Dr.  D.  C.  Green  of  the  Ameri- 
can Board.  He  has  been  in  Japan  since  1869.  He  was  here  three 
years  before  the  first  Protestant  church  was  organized  in  Yokohama, 
and  four  years  before  the  edicts  prohibiting  Christianity  were  taken 
down.  He  has  a great  story  to  tell,  and  the  heart  beats  faster 
while  listening  to  him.  He  spoke  of  some  of  the  changes  that  had 
taken  place  since  his  arrival.  Those  who  visit  Japan  now  can  have 
no  adequate  conception  of  the  greatness  of  these  changes.  The  nation 
and  its  institutions  are  essentially  different  from  what  they  were  at 
that  time.  He  spoke  of  the  triumph  of  the  Gospel  in  Japan.  He 
confessed  that  the  enthusiasm  of  a few  years  ago  has  abated.  The 
outlook  for  the  immediate  Christianization  of  Japan  is  not  as  bright 
as  it  was  then.  But  this,  in  his  opinion,  is  only  a temporary  lull. 
The  great  movement  has  slackened;  it  has  not  ceased.  Dr.  Green 
accounted  for  the  present  condition  by  saying  that  it  is  owing  partly, 
if  not  mainly,  to  the  readjustments  which  have  followed  the  general 
acceptance  of  the  theory  of  evolution.  Many  men  who  would 
otherwise  be  leaders  of  evangelistic  effort,  are  giving  themselves  to 
the  solution  of  the  new  problems  in  theology.  Some  are  at  sea  in 
respect  to  doctrine.  They  are  in  doubt,  and  a doubtful  mood  is  not 
a victorious  mood.  He  referred  also  to  the  intense  nationalistic 
spirit  as  hindering  the  progress  of  the  Gospel.  This  spirit  mani- 
fests itself  in  Russia,  in  Germany,  in  Australia,  and  Japan.  It  is 
different  in  different  countries,  but  in  every  case  it  emphasizes  the 
national  as  against  the  universal.  Chxfistianity  being  a foreign 
religion  has  suffered  in  common  with  everything  else  that  is  for- 
eign. As  to  the  future,  Dr.  Green  has  no  doubt.  Year  by  year 
substantial  gains  are  being  made.  There  are  many  indubitable 
proofs  that  the  worst  is  past,  and  that  a better  day  is  dawning. 

In  the  afternoon  we  visited  the  Imperial  University.  Dr. 
Yoshida  volunteered  to  be  our  guide.  He  is  one  of  the  teachers  in 
the  Nobles’  School,  and  does  some  work  in  the  University.  In  1856 
a place  was  opened  for  the  Examination  of  the  Barbarian  Writings. 
This  was  the  germ  of  the  present  University,  with  its  Colleges  of 
Law,  Medicine,  Engineering,  Literature,  Science  and  Agriculture. 
The  staff  of  professors  is  quite  large.  The  lectures  are  in  various 
languages.  The  Medical  College  is  manned  by  Germans.  Several 
of  the  professors  are  men  of  world-wide  renown.  Gradually  the 
foreigners  are  giving  place  to  Japanese.  The  Government  sends  a 
number  of  the  most  promising  young  men  to  America  and  Europe, 


78 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


and  supports  them  while  prosecuting  their  studies  under  the  ablest 
specialists.  There  are  in  all  departments  1,300  students.  This  is 
now  the  greatest  school  in  the  East.  The  Japanese  are  determined 
that  it  shall  not  be  surpassed  by  any  school  in  the  world.  One  of 
the  interesting  pieces  of  apparatus  shown  us  was  that  for  register- 
ing earthquakes.  As  there  are  about  five  hundred  earthquakes  a 
3’ear  in  Japan,  it  will  be  seen  that  this  instrument  has  much  to  do. 
It  records  the  motions  of  the  earth  in  all  directions,  and  the  dura- 
tion of  the  same.  Dr.  Yoshida  showed  us  a piece  of  wire  bent  so 
as  to  represent  the  movements  of  the  earth  in  a severe  shock.  It 
was  bent  in  all  directions.  Seeing  this,  one  can  readily  believe  the 
reports  of  the  destruction  caused  by  earthquakes.  The  scientific 
men  are  making  experiments  from  which  they  expect  good  results. 
For  example,  they  are  building  houses  that  will  best  withstand  the 
shock  of  earthquakes.  They  are  sinking  a well  3,000  feet  deep. 
They  hope  to  learn  something  from  this.  In  the  evening  the  Japa- 
nese Christians  gave  me  a reception.  Several  addresses  of  welcome 
were  made.  They  charged  me  to  assure  the  churches  in  America  of 
their  gratitude  for  what  they  have  done  for  them.  One  man  came 
three  hundred  miles  to  the  reception.  He  is  a country  evangelist. 
He  is  not  a great  scholar,  but  he  has  apostolic  faith  and  zeal,  and 
is  doing  a good  work. 

The  next  day  we  visited  the  Presbyterian  College,  and  saw  the 
President  and  several  of  the  professors  and  some  of  the  work. 
The  buildings  are  spacious  and  suitable.  In  the  Theological 
Department  there  are  lift}'  students;  in  the  Literary  Department 
about  the  same  number.  There  is  no  lack  of  schools  in  Tokyo. 
Nearly  every  society  has  felt  that  it  must  train  its  own  workers  and 
must  educate  the  young  people  connected  with  the  churches.  There 
are  schools  representing  every  variety  of  doctrine.  In  one  of  these, 
so  it  is  said,  there  are  no  text-books,  only  lectures  and  essays;  the 
faculty  is  composed  of  Christians,  Buddhists,  Shintoists  and  Con- 
fucianists.  All  have  the  same  object  in  view — search  for  truth 
wherever  it  may  be  found.  The  men  connected  with  this  school 
do  not  build  churches,  impose  creeds,  nor  pay  salaries  to  preachers, 
nor  import  foreign  organizations,  nor  reproduce  foreign  cults. 
They  wait  for  and  help  along  native  effort,  which  is  honestly  directed 
toward  gaining  the  highest  truth  and  securing  the  best  life  in  relig- 
ion and  morals.  It  is  a poor  way  to  search  for  truth  to  overlook 
Him  who  said,  “ I am  the  way,  the  truth,  and  the  life.” 

Most  of  Thursday  was  devoted  to  a conference  with  the  mission- 
aries. We  had  accounts  from  all  as  to  the  present  condition  of  the 


A WEEK  IN  TOKYO 


79 


work  and  the  outlook.  The  work  in  the  schools  and  the  meetings 
for  women  and  the  work  in  the  several  chapels  were  reported. 
Plans  for  enlarging  the  work  were  discussed.  The  need  of  a school 
in  which  evangelists  shall  be  trained  was  emphasized.  The  general 
feeling  is  that  no  college  for  literary  or  scientific  training  is  needed, 
because  the  Japanese  schools  are  excellent,  and  this  work  can  be 
done  in  them  more  economically.  In  answer  to  a petition  from  the 
believers  in  Akita  for  a missionary  family  Mr.  and  Dr.  Stevens 
volunteered  to  go  to  the  North.  They  will  be  more  than  three 
hundred  miles  from  Tokyo,  and  far  removed  from  any  Americans, 
but  they  go  joyfully  because  they  feel  that  the  Lord’s  work  there 
requires  their  presence  and  service.  That  day  we  visited  the 
Imperial  Museum  near  by  and  saw  many  things  relating  to  Japanese 
antiquities,  art,  manufactures,  mineral  and  agricultural  resources. 
We  had  a bird’s-eye  view  of  Japan.  In  the  park  we  saw  the  tree 
General  Grant  planted  and  some  of  the  camels  captured  at  Port 
Arthur. 

The  following  day  was  devoted  to  a conference  in  the  home  of 
Miss  Scott  and  Miss  Hostetter.  All  the  workers  in  Tokyo  repre- 
senting the  Disciples  of  Christ  were  present.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Madden 
reached  the  city  the  night  before,  and  were  on  hand  to  be  intro- 
duced to  the  workers  and  the  work.  After  a brief  address  by  Pres- 
ident Guy,  E.  S.  Stevens  read  a paper  on  “Entering  upon  the 
Work.”  He  dwelt  upon  the  need  of  a holy  life,  and  enlarged  upon 
some  missionary  methods.  It  was  a thoughtful  paper.  The  dis- 
cussion was  lively  and  profitable.  Prof.  Azbill  called  attention  to 
the  use  of  such  phi’ases  as  “Our  Church,”  “Our  Plea,”  and  “Our 
Position.”  He  prefers  to  speak  of  Christ’s  position,  and  plea,  and 
church.  Miss  Scott  read  a paper  on  “Charity  School  Work.” 
She  gave  an  account  of  her  own  school,  as  she  knows  that  better 
than  any  other.  Her  school  is  in  one  of  the  poorest  quarters  of  the 
city.  Here  are  lepers  and  people  with  other  terrible  diseases;  the 
blind  and  the  lame;  children  clad  and  unclad,  looking  hungry  and 
wretched.  When  the  people  get  up  in  the  morning  they  carry  off 
and  pawn  their  bed  for  enough  to  buy  food  or  drink.  If  they  can 
earn  enough  in  the  day  to  redeem  the  bed,  they  have  it  to  sleep  on 
during  the  night.  The  boys  called  the  workers  “foreign  fools” 
and  “foreign  cats.”  They  threw  stones  into  the  houses  and  made 
noises  about  the  place,  or  abused  and  teased  the  children  coming 
out  of  the  school.  Buddhist  priests  circulated  falsehoods  about 
Christians.  But  the  work  grew  and  prospered.  She  has  now  over 
one  hundred  children.  They  are  in  three  grades.  They  are  taught 


80 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


reading,  writing,  composition,  geography,  arithmetic,  physiology, 
and  practical  Christianity.  The  Bible  is  taught  every  morning,  and 
Christian  songs  are  taught  once  a week.  A new  spirit  has  crept 
over  the  valley.  The  policeman  speaks  of  the  children  as  quiet  and 
orderly,  whereas  they  had  been  the  bane  of  his  life.  The  teachers 
are  known  and  respected.  C.  E.  Garst  read  a paper  on  “Indus- 
trial Work  in  Missions.”  Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  pauper- 
ize the  people  by  doing  too  much  for  them.  The  better  plan  is  to 
give  them  some  work  while  in  school,  so  that  they  may  pay  their 
own  way.  At  the  creation  every  tree  had  its  “seed  in  itself.”  So 
Christianity  is  intended  to  be  self-propagating.  At  the  close  I 
spoke  about  the  work  at  home,  and  my  impressions  of  what  I had 
seau  since  reaching  the  field.  We  had  a good  day  together.  The 
workers  in  Japan  are  of  one  heart  and  one  soul.  They  keep  the 
unity  of  the  Spirit  in  the  bonds  of  peace. 

On  Saturday  morning  the  Advisory  Committee  held  a session  for 
business.  Later  in  the  day  we  visited  the  Garst  family.  One  of 
the  many  joys  of  this  visit  was  a talk  with  Dr.  Verbeck.  He  was 
born  in  Holland  and  educated  in  a Moravian  school.  After  coming 
to  America  he  entered  Auburn  Seminary.  On  his  graduation  he 
was  sent  to  Japan.  That  was  in  1859.  He  was  one  of  the  first 
four  to  enter  Japan  as  soon  as  the  doors  were  opened.  He  could 
not  preach  publicly,  but,  like  Paul,  he  dwelt  in  his  own  hired 
house,  and  received  all  that  came  in  unto  him,  preaching  the  king- 
dom of  God,  and  teaching  those  things  which  concern  the  Lord 
Jesus  Christ.  An  old  priest  brought  three  young  men  to  him.  He 
said  he  was  too  old  to  begin  the  study  of  Christianity,  but  asked 
him  to  take  his  young  friends  and  teach  them.  An  old  doctor  came 
by  night  to  talk  and  to  get  many  books  for  friends  in  the  country. 
Dr.  Verbeck  baptized  the  second  convert  in  Japan.  He  told  us 
about  it.  The  first  convert  died  a few  hours  after  his  baptism. 
The  commander  of  an  army  found  a copy  of  the  New  Testament  in 
Nagasaki  Bay.  Through  an  interpreter  he  learned  that  it  was  a 
good  book,  and  that  he  could  get  a copy  in  Chinese  in  Shanghai. 
Being  ordered  to  return  home,  he  kept  up  the  study  of  the  Bible, 
and  got  four  others  to  join  him.  He  sent  to  Dr.  Verbeck,  and 
asked  him  if  he  would  give  him  instruction  in  this  book.  Once  a 
week  he  sent  a trusty  messenger  to  Nagasaki  with  an  account  of  his 
progress,  and  with  a request  to  explain  some  difficult  passages.  He 
sent,  because  he  could  not  leave  home  himself.  This  went  on  for 
over  two  years.  One  day  the  commander  appeared  before  his 
teacher  and  asked  for  baptism.  After  due  examination  he  was 


CLASS  IN  ENGLISH  IN  TOKYO,  JAPAN. 


A WEEK  IN  TOKYO 


81 


baptized.  Then  he  told  of  the  New  Testament  that  he  had  found 
twelve  years  before.  The  baptism  was  private.  The  commander 
was  ready  to  die  for  the  faith,  but  if  it  was  known  that  he  was  a 
Christian,  his  whole  family  would  have  been  exterminated.  At 
that  time  Christianity  was  “ the  vile  doctrine,”  and  its  acceptance 
was  a capital  crime.  This  man  kept  the  faith  till  the  last.  Every 
day  he  took  his  family  into  a private  room  and  read  and  expounded 
the  Scriptures.  Fourteen  years  later  a daughter  and  a female 
servant  sought  baptism.  Dr.  Verbeck  had  much  to  do  with  educa- 
tion in  Japan.  Two  young  men  came  to  him  to  study  the  English 
Bible.  About  a year  after  they  came  to  him  bringing  two  sucking 
pigs  as  a thank  offering  for  his  teaching.  They  had  been  examined 
that  morning  and  had  carried  off  the  highest  prizes.  The  success 
of  these  young  men  led  the  government  officials  to  seek  Dr.  Yer- 
beck’s  services  in  an  English  school  to  be  opened  in  Nagasaki. 
Afterward  he  was  invited  to  Tokyo.  Here  he  became  the  adviser 
of  the  government  in  all  matters  pertaining  to  education,  and  in 
other  matters  as  well.  He  was  principal  of  a school  that  had  over 
a thousand  pupils.  This  school  is  now  part  of  the  Imperial  Uni- 
versity. His  influence  for  good  has  been  immeasurable.  Several 
years  ago  he  severed  his  connection  with  the  school  and  returned  to> 
the  woi’k  of  an  evangelist.  He  is  in  great  demand  as  a pi’eacher 
and  a lecturer.  He  is  called  for  in  all  parts  of  the  Empire.  One 
of  his  greatest  works  was  his  share  in  translating  the  Scriptures 
into  Japanese.  Dr.  Verbeck  is  a hale  and  joyous  old  man,  and  a 
fine  specimen  of  the  Christian  gentleman.  He  is  as  young  in  spirit 
and  as  full  of  fun  as  a boy.  He  has  seen  the  Empix-e  opened,  and 
has  seen  the  day  when  40,000  souls  believe  that  Jesus  Christ  is 
Lord  of  all.  In  recognition  of  his  great  services  to  the  nation,  the 
government  has  granted  him  and  his  family  a special  passport,  giv- 
ing them  the  right  to  trade,  sojourn  and  reside  in  any  part  of  the 
Empire.  Dr.  Verbeck’s  life  is  an  illustration  of  the  words, 
“Always  abounding  in  the  work  of  the  Lord.”  To  meet  such  a 
man  and  to  hear  him  talk  makes  one  feel  proud  of  his  race. 

At  the  request  of  the  General  Secretary,  I delivered  an  address 
before  the  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association.  Thei’e  were  over 
three  hundred  present.  In  that  audience  there  were  more  brains 
and  more  promise  than  in  all  the  priests  and  worshipers  I had  seen 
in  the  temples.  Most  of  them  could  understand  English.  For  the 
sake  of  those  who  could  not,  the  Secretary  interpreted  for  me  after 
I had  finished.  All  our  own  workers  were  present.  The  Associa- 
6 


82 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


tion  has  a fine  building.  It  cost  $30,000,  silver.  Most  of  this 
money  came  from  America.  A number  of  eminent  men,  among 
them  the  Chief  Justice  of  Japan,  are  among  the  directors. 

It  was  a busy  and  happy  week.  I saw  all  the  charity  schools, 
and  some  of  the  work  in  the  meetings  for  women.  I met  the  Chris- 
tians for  conference  and  visited  the  workers  in  their  own  homes. 
As  scarcely  any  two  live  within  five  miles  of  each  other,  this  took 
time.  There  were  many  callers  at  the  home  where  I was  enter- 
tained. They  came  early  and  late.  Sometimes  there  was  no  leisure, 
no,  not  so  much  as  to  eat.  I think  1 saw  and  heard  about  every 
side  of  the  work.  The  week  closed  with  a service  of  song  and 
thanksgiving  to  God  for  his  loving  kindness. 


XII. 


MISSIONARY  METHODS  IN  JAPAN. 

The  work  of  a missionary  is  clearly  defined.  He  is  to  make 
disciples  and  teach  them  to  observe  all  things  that  Christ  com- 
manded. This  task  is  not  so  simple  and  so  easy  of  accomplishment 
as  many  suppose.  The  people  are  not  standing  on  the  shore  wait- 
ing for  the  evangelist,  and  eager  to  hear  and  obey  his  message. 
They  are  not  hungering  and  thirsting  after  righteousness.  Our 
Lord  said,  “No  man  having  drunk  old  wine  desireth  new;  for  he 
saith,  The  old  is  good.”  Myriads  are  satisfied  with  what  they  have, 
and  do  not  wish  any  change.  In  other  minds  there  is  an  inveterate 
prejudice  against  a foreign  faith.  To  secure  a favorable  hearing 
for  the  message  requires  wisdom,  tact,  patience,  and  love.  The 
work  of  a missionary  is  a many-sided  work,  and  it  needs  a many- 
sided  soul.  I wish  to  give  an  account  of  some  of  the  methods 
employed  in  Japan. 

I.  PREACHING  THE  GOSPEL. 

A missionary  is  to  go  and  preach.  It  is  God’s  good  pleasure 
through  the  foolishness  of  preaching  to  save  them  that  believe. 
Our  Lord  was  a preacher.  He  went  about  all  Galilee  and  Judjea 
teaching  in  their  synagogues  and  preaching  the  Gospel  of  the  king- 
dom. His  apostles  were  preachers.  They  filled  the  Empire  with 
their  doctrine.  There  is  no  substitute  for  the  living  voice  of  the 
living  man.  The  presence  of  an  evangelist  challenges  attention  and 
calls  out  inquiries.  At  once  the  people  become  curious  as  to  his 
appearance  and  business  and  motives.  It  is  for  him  to  take  advan- 
tage of  this  natural  curiosity  and  supply  the  information  desired. 
A missionary  is  not  long  on  the  ground  before  he  begins  to  preach. 
He  begins  with  an  interpreter.  As  soon  as  he  is  able  he  begins  to 
speak  without  this  aid.  Dr.  McAll  began  with  two  sentences: 
“ God  loves  you;  I love  you.”  The  work  may  be  begun  in  his  own 
hired  house,  or  in  a hotel,  or  on  the  street,  or  in  a chapel,  or  in  a 
temple.  Wherever  people  are  found  who  wish  to  learn  something 
about  the  faith  of  Christ,  he  is  ready  to  speak.  Paul  made  several 

long  missionary  tours.  He  said  that  from  Jerusalem  and  round 

83 


84 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


about,  even  unto  Illyricum,  I have  fully  preached  the  Gospel  of 
Christ.  The  world  was  his  parish.  His  example  is  followed  to-day 
in  Japan.  No  missionary  remains  in  one  spot,  like  an  oyster.  His 
labors  are  not  confined  to  one  neighborhood.  Confucius  said:  “A 
philosopher  need  not  go  abroad  to  proclaim  his  doctrine ; if  he  has 
the  truth,  the  people  will  come  to  him.”  A missionary  must  go  out 
on  preaching  tours.  He  may  be  gone  a month  or  two  at  a time.  It 
is  not  difficult  to  get  a hearing.  By  announcing  that  he  is  going  to 
speak  in  some  temple  or  in  the  theater,  he  can  call  from  five  hun- 
dred to  a thousand  people  together.  The  audience  is  in  no  hurry  to 
go  home.  He  can  preach  for  an  hour,  or  for  five  hours,  as  he  pre- 
fers. In  this  way  he  advertises  Christianity.  Many  will  call  upon 
him  at  his  hotel  to  hear  more.  They  will  come  before  he  is  awake 
in  the  morning,  and  will  remain  till  long  after  he  ought  to  be 
asleep.  Some  may  be  drawn  by  the  idlest  curiosity.  They  may  be 
like  the  Athenians,  eager  to  hear  some  new  thing.  Some  may  come 
to  oppose.  A few  may  come  to  inquire  what  they  must  do  in  order 
to  be  saved.  In  any  event,  he  has  the  chance  to  apply  the  truth  to 
the  heart  and  the  conscience,  and  to  make  clear  what  in  his  address 
was  not  understood.  An  audience  at  home  has  a thousand  years  of 
Christian  history  behind  it.  The  hearers  understand  allusions  to 
Biblical  history,  geography,  and  social  customs.  Not  so  here  in 
Japan.  One  man  inquired  of  a speaker  if  John  the  Baptist  was  a 
place  or  a person.  Such  misconceptions  are  not  uncommon.  On 
these  tours  the  evangelist  is  brought  face  to  face  with  multitudes 
who  otherwise  would  never  care  to  inquire  concerning  Christianity. 
He  has  thus  unrivalled  opportunities  of  disarming  prejudice,  of 
explaining  difficulties,  and  of  publishing  far  and  wide  the  message 
of  salvation. 


II.  SUNDAY-SCHOOLS  A XT)  WOMEN’S  MEETINGS. 

The  children  are  gathered  on  Sunday  in  the  chapels  or  in  the 
buildings  used  by  the  charity  schools.  Some  of  the  workers  have 
two  and  others  three  schools  a week.  The  exercises  are  conducted 
as  at  home.  The  same  lessons  are  studied  and  the  same  songs 
sung.  The  results  can  not  fail  to  be  good.  On  the  seats  are  small 
childi’en  with  babies  strapped  to  their  backs.  The  parents  are  busy 
and  can  not  come;  the  children  are  glad  to  attend.  Once  a week 
each  of  the  ladies  of  the  mission  has  a meeting  for  women.  This 
meeting  is  held  either  in  their  homes  or  in  the  chapels.  In  the  two 
that  I attended  the  women  were  studying  the  “Life  of  Christ.” 
Songs  were  sung,  prayers  were  offered,  the  Scriptures  were  read 


MISSIONARY  METHODS  IN  JAPAN 


85 


and  explained.  There  is  more  need  of  such  meetings  here  than  in 
America.  The  reason  is  this:  The  women  do  not  use  the  same 
language  as  the  men.  A woman  may  go  to  church  and  hear  the 
sermon  and  understand  very  little  of  it.  If  the  preacher  wishes  to 
display  his  learning  and  uses  Chinese  words  freely,  the  women  will 
not  be  edified.  In  the  meetings  for  women  the  leaders  use  Japanese 
words  and  phrases,  and  their  explanations  are  clear  to  all. 

III.  CHARITY  SCHOOLS. 

In  Japan  there  are  public  schools  in  all  parts  of  the  Empire. 
The  intention  of  the  Government,  as  stated  in  an  Imperial  edict,  is 
that  education  shall  be  so  diffused  that  there  may  not  be  a village 
with  an  ignorant  family,  nor  a family  with  an  ignorant  member. 
But  the  schools  in  Japan  are  not  free.  It  is  true  that  the  tuition  fee 
is  small,  but  a fee  of  fifteen  or  twenty  cents  a month  is  more  than 
many  families  can  pay.  Hence  the  need  of  charity  schools.  In 
these  no  fees  are  charged,  as  a rule.  Sometimes  a small  fee  is 
charged;  this  is  done  only  when  the  families  are  able  to  pay  it.  In 
these  the  course  is  substantially  the  same  as  in  the  Government 
schools.  The  difference  is  that  the  Bible  and  Christian  songs  are 
taught.  By  this  means  distrust  and  dislike  are  broken  down,  and 
hearts  and  homes  are  opened  to  the  Gospel.  For  centuries  the  peo- 
ple of  Japan  were  taught  that  foreigners  were  no  better  than  the 
beasts  of  the  field.  It  was  said  that  missionaries  were  sent  out  to 
teach  the  people  to  disobey  the  laws.  This  care  for  the  children  of 
the  poor  attracts  attention.  Persons  that  engage  in  such  a work, 
with  no  promise  or  prospect  of  reward,  cannot  be  so  very  bad  at 
heart.  The  strongest  evidence  our  Lord  could  give  that  he  ivas  the 
Messiah  was  this:  “To  the  poor  the  gospel  is  preached.”  This 
evidence  is  as  cogent  and  convincing  now  as  it  was  then.  Acquaint- 
ance with  the  teachers  dispels  many  foolish  notions  about  them. 
They  are  seen  to  be  possessed  of  ability,  culture,  refinement;  they 
are  kind  and  gentle  and  patient.  It  is  impossible  to  hate  or  despise 
such  workers.  By  their  consistent  lives  and  unselfish  conduct  they 
commend  the  Gospel  to  all  who  know  them.  The  good  seed  is 
sown  in  the  hearts  of  their  pupils.  Bishop  Hughes  said:  “Give 
me  the  children  till  they  are  eight  years  of  age,  and  I don’t  care 
who  has  them  after  that.”  Some  of  the  children  are  won  to  the 
faith.  All  are  more  favorably  disposed  towards  Christianity  and 
Christian  people  than  otherwise  they  naturally  would  be.  Whole 
communities  have  been  changed  by  a charity  school.  The  pupils 
were  brought  into  a new  atmosphere.  The  boys  were  taught  to 


8(3 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


serve  their  country  and  to  grow  up  into  good  men.  They  were  pre- 
pared to  be  heads  of  households.  The  girls  were  better  daughters, 
wives  and  mothers  because  of  the  instruction  and  inspiration 
received.  These  schools  build  up  the  nation;  they  contribute  to 
the  advancement  of  the  Lord’s  work  in  this  land.  One  boy  taught 
by  one  of  our  workers  sends  his  mother  to  the  meeting  for  women. 
He  keeps  the  baby  in  her  absence.  Once  his  mother  was  going  to  a 
temple  to  pray  that  her  sore  eyes  might  be  healed.  The  lesson  that 
day  was,  “ Thou  shalt  worship  the  Lord  thy  God,  and  him  only 
shalt  thou  serve.”  He  urged  her  not  to  go.  She  did  not.  After- 
ward she  wanted  to  unite  with  the  church,  but  her  husband 
opposed. 

IV.  TEACHING  ENGLISH. 

The  demand  for  this  is  not  so  strong  as  it  was  once,  but  it  is 
strong  enough  to  tax  the  energies  of  the  missionaries.  Once  it  was 
proposed  to  adopt  English  as  the  national  language.  That  was 
a dream  of  the  Restoration.  No  one  thinks  of  that  now.  Then 
every  man  that  could  speak  English  was  employed  as  a teacher. 
Men  smoked  and  swore  in  the  class-rooms.  One  article  in  the  con- 
tract made  with  W.  E.  Griffis  was  that  he  should  not  get  drunk. 
There  was  a reason  for  this  clause.  There  is  j7et  a great  demand 
for  English  among  the  students.  This  helps  the  work.  I think  it 
was  Duff  that  said  that  no  one  could  get  a knowledge  of  the  English 
language  without  getting  a knowledge  of  Christianity.  No  one  can 
read  Shakespeare,  or  Emerson,  or  Tennyson,  or  Lowell,  without 
discovering  many  of  the  concepts  that  are  peculiar  to  the  Gospel. 
English  literature  is  saturated  with  Christian  thought.  One  can 
not  read  long  without  learning  of  God  as  a personal  Being,  of  Jesus 
Christ  as  the  Savior  of  men,  of  the  worth  of  every  human  soul, 
of  the  value  of  freedom.  No  man  can  read  English  without  coming 
to  know  that  it  is  a shameful  thing  for  men  to  lie;  that  it  is  a noble 
thing  to  be  pure,  and  just,  and  generous,  and  self-sacrificing. 

V.  BIBLE  CLASSES. 

These  are  taught  in  the  Sunday-schools  and  elsewhere.  Young 
men  come  to  the  homes  of  the  missionaries.  The  principal  of  one 
of  the  great  schools  of  Japan  said  to  his  pupils,  “You  can  not 
understand  English  civilization  without  a knowledge  of  the  English 
Bible.”  Many  read  it  for  this  purpose.  They  do  not  regard  it  as  a 
revelation  from  the  Father.  They  do  not  read  it  to  make  it  the 
rule  of  their  lives.  They  read  it  as  they  would  read  Longfellow,  or 


MISSIOXAEY  METHODS  IX  JAP  AX 


87 


Hawthorne,  or  Milton,  or  Burke.  No  matter  what  the  motive,  if 
only  they  do  read  it.  Dr.  Gordon  took  a class  of  Buddhist  priests 
through  a course  in  the  New  Testament.  That  so  many  want  to 
study  the  English  Bible  is  a hopeful  sign.  It  is  a great  and  effec- 
tual door.  Nothing  but  good  can  come  from  such  classes.  Many 
may  not  be  convinced  that  it  is  the  Word  of  God,  but  their  erro- 
neous views  will  be  corrected  and  their  mental  attitude  changed.  As 
they  read  they  will  become  familiar  with  some  of  the  great  truths 
and  eternal  principles  that  underlie  Anglo-Saxon  civilization.  They 
will  learn  that,  not  the  Emperor  only,  but  every  man  is  a son  of 
Heaven;  that  all  men  are  equal  before  God;  and  that  all  are 
sinners;  and  that  Jesus  the  Christ  is  mighty  to  save. 

VI.  BIBLE  DISTRIBUTION. 

The  people  are  glad  to  get  a New  Testament  or  a Gospel. 
After  a large  meeting  in  a theater  many  are  willing  to  buy.  Their 
interest  is  excited,  and  they  are  eager  to  know  more.  One  of  our 
workers  at  the  close  of  such  a meeting  disposed  of  five  hundred 
portions  of  the  Bible.  As  they  read  they  are  convinced  that  this  is 
not  “the  vile  doctrine”  reputed,  and  that  it  cannot  corrupt  the 
people.  They  are  convinced  that  it  cannot  fail  to  do  them  good. 
It  is  the  basis  of  ethics  and  the  foundation  of  good  government  and 
of  the  greatest  material  prosperity.  The  distribution  of  the  Script- 
ures cannot  fail  to  bring  forth  good  fruit.  The  printed  page  can  go 
where  no  evangelist  has  ever  gone.  In  connection  with  this  work 
is  that  of  tract  distribution.  Workers  usually  carry  an  assortment 
with  them  while  touring.  They  give  them  to  pilgrims  in  the  tem- 
ples, to  passengers  on  the  trains,  to  coolies  on  the  street,  to  those 
who  attend  the  services  in  the  chapels.  Some  keep  a supply  on 
their  desks,  and  give  a copy  to  every  caller.  Some  may  be  wasted, 
but  all  cannot  be.  The  Japanese  are  great  readers,  and  will  make 
good  use  of  any  literature  that  comes  into  their  possession. 

VII.  TALKING  WITH  THE  PEOPLE. 

The  missionary  may  call  to  see  a man  by  appointment,  or  a man 
may  call  to  see  him.  At  home  people  know  their  duty.  They  have 
no  doubt  about  the  inspiration  of  the  Scriptures,  or  about  the 
validity  of  Christ’s  claims.  The  one  thing  to  do  is  to  urge  them  to 
accept  Jesus  as  Lord.  It  is  not  so  here.  Christianity  is  a new 
faith  and  has  a foreign  aspect.  Much  of  it  they  do  not  understand. 
They  hear  of  the  resurrection  and  of  miracles,  and  they  are  per- 


88 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


plexed.  They  want  to  learn  more.  One  morning  in  Tokyo  a 
policeman  called  to  make  inquiries.  He  was  from  the  country.  He 
had  heard  several  sermons,  and  he  brought  four  friends  and  a list 
of  questions.  Mrs.  Garst  called  to  see  a man  dying  of  consump- 
tion. She  urged  him  to  put  his  faith  in  Christ.  He  was  troubled 
about  miracles  and  wanted  help.  There  is  not  a question  of  Bibli- 
cal criticism  or  a theological  vagary  in  Europe  or  America  which  is 
not  repeated  here,  and  often  in  an  aggravated  form.  Men  are 
troubled  and  they  call  to  talk  the  matter  over.  It  may  take  a 
month  or  a year,  or  a series  of  years,  to  satisfy  the  heart  and  the 
reason.  The  missionary  gives  days  and  weeks  to  this  work.  He 
takes  time  from  reading,  aud  from  meals  and  from  sleep  for  this 
purpose. 

On  the  trains  missionaries  talk  to  the  passengers.  They  are 
surprised  and  pleased  that  foreigners  can  talk  Japanese.  They  are 
affable  and  easily  approached.  They  talk  with  the  priests  in  the 
temple.  Dr.  Neesima  urged  a Cabinet  Minister  to  confess  Christ. 
They  talk  to  men  anywhere  and  everywhere.  They  sow  beside  all 
waters.  They  have  one  work  on  hand.  The  methods  may  vary, 
but  the  end  in  view  is  the  same.  They  are  fishers  of  men.  Thej' 
may  have  to  change  the  net  or  the  bait,  but  they  must  catch  fish,  or 
the  nets  and  the  bait  avail  nothing.  Paul  preached  sometimes.  At 
other  times  he  held  dialogues  with  the  people.  Whatever  the  form 
of  speech,  his  aim  was  that  by  all  means  he  might  gain  some.  It  is 
so  now. 

Other  methods  are  employed.  Thus  schools  are  opened  for 
girls.  The  higher  education  of  women  is  not  popular  now.  It  is 
thought  that  it  causes  them  to  be  less  modest  and  more  self- 
assertive  than  formerly.  There  are  those  who  think  differently, 
however.  One  statesman  said:  “Give  me  the  women  of  the  coun- 
try, and  you  may  have  the  army,  and  the  navy,  and  the  police,  and 
all  the  rest.”  A daimyo  said  to  amissionary:  “If  you  have  the 
best  welfare  of  our  country  at  heart,  the  best  thing  you  can  do  is  to 
educate  our  women.”  Medical  work  is  still  carried  on  in  the  inter- 
est of  evangelism,  but  there  is  not  the  need  of  this  that  there  once 
was.  There  are  some  mission  hospitals  in  Japan.  In  connection 
with  these  nurses  are  trained.  Orphanages  have  been  established. 
The  children  in  them  are  brought  up  in  the  nurture  and  admonition 
of  the  Lord.  In  the  recent  war  with  China,  missionaries  went  into 
the  hospitals  and  served  the  patients  in  every  way  they  could. 
The  missionaries  feel  that  the  people  must  be  reached  and  won  to 


CHRISTIANS  AND  MISSIONARIES  IN  TOKYO,  JAPAN. 


MISSIOXAEY  METHODS  IX  JAP  AX 


89 


the  faith.  If  one  method  will  not  answer  the  purpose,  another 
is  adopted. 

It  will  be  seen,  I think,  that  missionary  work  is  more  difficult, 
and  calls  for  men  and  women  of  greater  ability,  than  is  generally 
believed.  Savage  people  are  ready  to  accept  what  they  hear.  A 
missionary  digs  a well  in  a dry  season,  and  they  regard  him  as  a 
supernatural  being.  They  never  heard  of  a well.  They  are  ready 
to  say,  “The  gods  have  come  down  in  the  likeness  of  man.”  In 
Home  it  is  said  that  two  priests  could  not  meet  without  laughing  at 
the  way  they  were  fooling  the  people.  The  Gospel  spread  like 
wildfire.  In  Japan  it  is  different.  Here  are  ancient  and  venerated 
religions,  magnificent  temples,  and  priests  without  number.  Chris- 
tianity was  under  the  ban  for  centuries.  Its  advocates  were  said  to 
be  barbarous  and  devilish.  The  missionaries  have  to  show  that  it 
is  a rational  faith,  and  that  it  is  worthy  of  all  acceptation.  They 
have  to  present  its  claims  so  that  men  and  women,  born  and  bred  in 
Buddhism,  Shintoism  and  Confucianism,  may  be  convinced,  and 
may  confess  that  Jesus  Christ  is  Lord  to  the  glory  of  God  the 
Father. 


XIII. 


THE  WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  JAPAN. 

The  Indianapolis  Convention  of  1881  urged  that  Japan  be  occu- 
pied as  a mission  field.  George  T.  Smith  and  Charles  E.  Garst  and 
their  wives  were  the  first  missionaries.  Mr.  Smith  was  born  in 
Cincinnati;  served  in  the  army;  was  in  Libby  Prison  for  a time; 
was  severely  wounded.  He  was  educated  in  Bethany  College; 
preached  in  Swampscott,  Bucyrus  and  Warren.  Josephine  W. 
Smith  was  born  in  Cornwallis,  Nova  Scotia,  and  was  married  in 
1874.  Mr.  Garst  was  born  in  Dayton,  Ohio;  was  educated  in  the 
Iowa  Agricultural  College,  in  the  Military  Academy  at  West  Point, 
and  at  Butler  University.  M.  D.  Todd,  who  baptized  him,  urged 
him  to  devote  his  life  to  the  ministry  of  the  Word  and  to  prayer. 
For  some  time  he  directed  his  studies  by  mail.  Laura  De  Laney 
Garst  was  born  in  Hopedale,  Ohio;  was  educated  at  Union  Springs 
and  Rochester,  New  York;  was  married  in  1881.  After  their  mar- 
riage Mr.  and  Mrs.  Garst  thought  much  of  mission  work.  At  one 
time  they  thought  of  going  to  Africa  at  their  own  expense.  The 
Society  heard  of  their  thoughts  and  plans,  and  asked  them  to  go  to 
Japan. 

These  four  workers  sailed  from  San  Francisco  for  Yokohama 
September  27,  1883.  On  their  arrival  they  engaged  rooms  at  the 
Temperance  Hotel,  and  within  a few  days  began  the  study  of  the 
language.  They  were  kindly  received  by  the  missionaries  on  the 
ground.  Among  those  to  whom  they  were  under  special  obligation 
for  advice  and  assistance  were  Mr.  Goble,  who  had  been  in  Japan 
thirty  years;  Mr.  Loomis,  of  the  Bible  Society,  and  Mr.  Bennett,  of 
the  American  Baptist  Union.  They  remained  in  Yokohama  till 
they  mastered  the  language  sufficiently  to  be  able  to  take  care  of 
themselves  in  the  interior.  They  found  that  the  treaty  ports  were 
occupied.  There  were  more  missionaries  in  the  Concession  of 
Tokyo  than  in  the  same  area  anywhere  else  in  the  world.  After 
looking  over  the  whole  country  they  decided  to  begin  work  in 
Akita,  the  capital  city  of  the  province  by  the  same  name.  Akita  is 
on  the  northwest  coast.  It  has  a population  of  about  40,000,  while 

90 


WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IX  JAPAX 


91 


the  province  has  a population  of  600,000.  At  that  time  there  were 
no  Christian  workers,  either  native  or  foreign,  in  that  province. 
Most  of  the  people  had  never  heard  of  the  Christ.  For  several 
months  the  missionaries  lived  in  a Japanese  house  as  one  family. 
Mrs.  Garst  was  the  first  American  woman  to  live  in  Akita,  Mrs. 
Smith  having  remained  behind  in  Yokohama  on  account  of  sick- 
ness. The  people  were  greatly  amused  when  she  and  her  husband 
walked  the  streets  arm  in  arm.  They  had  never  seen  anything  like 
that  before.  Many  called  to  inquire  about  their  purpose,  and 
about  the  faith  which  they  came  to  preach.  The  neighbors  used  to 
come  in  to  attend  family  worship. 

Four  months  after  their  arrival  in  Akita  there  were  two  bap- 
tisms. Two  months  later  there  were  four  more.  A church  was 
organized  and  the  ordinances  were  observed.  The  services  were 
conducted  in  Japanese.  In  the  autumn  of  that  year  Mr.  O.  H. 
Gulick,  of  the  American  Board,  visited  Akita.  The  theater  was 
engaged  and  meetings  were  held.  Messrs.  Gulick,  Smith,  Garst, 
and  Kudo,  the  Japanese  teacher  and  evangelist,  spoke.  The  audi- 
ences were  large  and  attentive.  They  listened  from  two  to  three 
hours.  In  this  way  the  missionaries  were  able  to  get  the  claims  of 
the  Gospel  before  the  minds  of  the  Japanese.  The  next  spring 
Mrs.  Smith  died.  Her  patience  and  goodness  caused  her  to  be 
greatly  beloved.  She  was  possessed  of  that  meek  and  quiet  spirit 
which  is  of  great  price.  A chapel  was  built  by  the  children  in 
America  as  a memorial  to  her.  The  bell  rings  out  several  times 
every  week  and  invites  the  people  to  hear  the  Gospel.  The  day 
Mrs.  Smith  was  buried  Dr.  Macklin  reached  Nagasaki.  He  had 
received  his  medical  training  in  Toronto  and  in  New  York.  Ascer- 
taining that  there  was  no  special  need  of  a medical  missionary  in 
Japan,  owing  to  the  proficiency  of  the  Japanese  physicians,  he  went 
to  China  and  opened  a mission  in  Nankin.  The  next  year  Miss 
Kate  Johnson  and  Miss  Calla  Harrison  joined  the  band  in  Akita. 
They  had  been  efficient  teachers  in  Madison,  Indiana.  They  began 
the  study  of  the  language  and  taught  in  the  school  which  had  been 
opened.  Soon  after  they  reached  the  field  almost  the  whole  of 
Akita  was  destroyed  by  fire.  The  school  building  was  opened  to 
receive  the  homeless.  The  mission  fed  the  people  and  did  all  in  its 
power  to  relieve  distress.  Their  conduct  in  that  crisis  was  not 
without  good  effect.  That  summer  the  work  was  hindered  by 
cholera.  More  than  200,000  died  in  Japan  that  season.  All  meet- 
ings were  discontinued  for  a time. 

While  carrying  on  the  work  in  Akita,  the  missionaries  did  not 


92 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


neglect  the  regions  beyond.  They  made  evangelistic  tours  into  the 
surrounding  country  and  towns.  Honjo  was  the  first  out-station. 
Here  was  a town  of  30,000  people  without  any  Gospel  privileges. 
Here  a number  of  believers  were  gathered  into  a church.  About 
the  same  time  some  work  was  done  in  Tsuchizaki,  the  port  of 
Akita.  At  Arakawa  a church  was  established  by  a Japanese  Chris- 
tian. He  had  been  a cook  in  Mr.  Smith’s  family.  There  he 
became  a believer.  He  went  to  Arakawa  to  work  in  the  copper 
mines.  He  had  little  culture  but  much  zeal.  He  talked  the  Gos- 
pel to  his  associates  and  led  several  of  them  to  Christ.  With  some 
help  from  the  mission  they  built  a small  chapel.  Here  they  meet 
and  observe  the  Lord’s  Supper  and  exhort  one  another.  Churches 
were  established  at  Innai  and  at  Shonai.  Meanwhile  believers  were 
added  to  the  Lord  in  Akita.  Regular  preaching  services,  Sunday- 
schools  and  other  services  were  held  about  the  city.  Bible-classes 
were  organized  for  women,  and  were  productive  of  good  fruits. 
The  women  were  poor  and  ignorant,  but  the  Spirit  helped  their 
infirmities.  Some  died  in  hope  of  eternal  life;  some  live  and  adorn 
the  Gospel  of  God  their  Savior. 

In  1888  G.  T.  Smith  returned  from  America,  whither  he  had 
gone  the  year  previous.  He  had  been  married  to  Miss  Candace 
Lliamon,  and  she  accompanied  him  to  the  field  to  assist  in  the 
work.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eugene  Snodgrass  came  with  them.  P.  B. 
Hall  came  out  that  same  year.  He  remained  in  Japan  till  failing 
health  compelled  him  to  resign.  After  these  arrivals  it  was  deemed 
expedient  to  scatter  the  forces.  C.  E.  Garst  and  Eugene  Snod- 
grass and  their  families,  and  Miss  Johnson,  removed  to  Shonai. 
This  was  a city  of  25,000  people,  and  the  center  of  a vast  and  neg- 
lected district.  Here  a chapel  was  built  at  an  expense  of  $300. 
One  man  had  been  a notorious  drunkard.  He  accepted  Christ  as 
his  Savior,  and  became  a wonder  to  all  his  neighbors.  They  said 
that  if  the  Gospel  could  work  such  a mighty  change,  it  is  worthy  of 
all  acceptation. 

Two  years  later  it  was  decided  to  make  Tokyo  the  central 
station.  It  was  a good  thing  in  many  ways  that  they  went  to  Akita 
in  the  beginning  of  the  work.  Mr.  Greathouse,  American  Consul- 
General  to  Japan,  said  that  this  was  one  of  the  causes  of  the  more 
general  dispersion  of  missionaries  over  the  Empire  that  took  place 
from  that  time  forward.  It  was  a good  thing  for  the  workers  them- 
selves. The  experience  gained  was  invaluable.  They  were  able  to 
preach  sooner  than  if  they  had  remained  in  a large  city  where  the 
audiences  are  more  critical.  Nevertheless,  Tokyo  was  the  natural 


WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IX  JAPAX 


93 


center  of  the  work  in  Japan.  People  are  constantly  going  there 
from  all  the  provinces.  From  Tokyo  they  could  go  out  in  all  direc- 
tions. The  fact  that  they  came  from  the  capital  would  give  them  a 
standing  that  they  could  not  have  otherwise.  Before  leaving  the 
north  they  placed  the  work  in  the  hands  of  Japanese  evangelists. 
At  the  present  time  Saito  San  has  charge  of  the  work  in  Akita. 
Noto  San  lives  and  conducts  sexwices  at  Tsuchizaki.  Kudo  San  is 
at  Innai.  Yokotsura  San  is  at  Arakawa.  Tashiro  San  is  at  Honjo. 
Shonai  is  vacant,  but  expects  to  be  supplied  soon.  Kawamura  San 
is  at  Akodzu.  There  are  chapels  at  all  these  points  except  Innai 
and  Akodzu,  and  they  are  arranging  to  build.  The  workers  in 
Tokyo  visit  these  churches  from  time  to  time.  Lately  Miss  Johnson 
spent  forty  days  on  such  a visit  and  addressed  many  people.  Mrs. 
Garst  spent  two  weeks,  and  so  spoke  that  ten  were  baptized. 

Several  of  the  workers  sent  out  are  no  longer  on  the  field. 
Those  in  Tokyo  and  their  work  are  about  as  follows:  C.  E.  Garst 

preaches  in  the  city  and  makes  tours  into  the  country.  He  pre- 
pares tracts  for  general  circulation,  and  does  whatever  else  he  can 
to  advance  the  interests  of  the  kingdom.  Mrs.  Garst  teaches  the 
women  and  the  children  and  assists  in  all  the  services.  Miss  John- 
son has  a charity  school,  a meeting  for  women,  a Bible-class,  and 
goes  out  on  tours.  E.  S.  Stevens,  Dr.  Kina  A.  Stevens,  Miss 
Lavinia  Oldham,  and  Miss  Mary  Rioch  reached  Japan  three  years 
ago.  Mr.  Stevens  has  charge  of  one  chapel,  teaches  a Bible-class, 
teaches  English  in  the  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association,  and 
studies  the  language.  Dr.  Stevens  teaches  a Bible-class  and  carries 
on  her  medical  work.  Miss  Oldham  conducts  three  Sunday-schools, 
two  charity  schools,  two  Bible  meetings  for  women  and  one  English 
Bible-class.  Miss  Rioch  has  charge  of  the  Girls’  Home  and  Train- 
ing School,  conducts  a charity  school  and  a Bible  meeting  for 
women.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Guy  came  out  two  years  ago.  He  has 
charge  of  one  chapel,  teaches  a Bible-class,  teaches  English  in  the 
Young  Men’s  Christian  Association,  supei'intends  the  buildings  in 
course  of  erection,  and  studies  the  language.  Mrs.  Guy  has  charge 
of  a charity  school  and  a Bible  meeting  for  women.  Three  Japa- 
nese evangelists  aid  the  work,  namely,  Nishioka  San,  Imai  San,  and 
Yoshida  San. 

Other  workers  have  served  in  Japan.  Five  years  ago  Miss 
Loduska  Wirick  was  sent  out  by  the  Belle  Bennett  Band  of  Drake 
University.  She  is  now  at  home  on  furlough.  She  did  a good 
work,  and  her  praises  are  heard  on  all  sides.  Nearly  three  years 
ago  W.  K.  Azbill,  J.  M.  McCaleb  and  wife,  Miss  Lucia  M.  Scott, 


94 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Miss  Carmi  Hostetter  and  K.  Ishikawa  came  out.  Mr.  McCaleb 
has  built  a chapel  and  preaches  in  it  and  at  a station  out  in  the 
country,  publishes  a Sunday-school  paper  and  tracts,  and  conducts 
a Bible-class  in  his  own  house.  Miss  Scott  assists  in  the  Sunday 
services,  teaches  English  ten  hours  a week,  conducts  a large  charity 
school,  teaches  the  children  singing,  assists  in  the  meetings  for 
women,  and  gives  some  time  every  day  to  the  language.  Miss  Hos- 
tetter has  a day  school  and  conducts  meetings  for  women.  A suit- 
able building  has  been  erected.  She  teaches  in  the  Sunday-school 
and  has  a Bible-class  for  young  men  in  her  own  home.  In  addition, 
she  teaches  English  ten  hours  a week  in  a large  school.  Ishikawa 
San  teaches  in  a college  for  girls;  teaches  English  to  several,  and 
aids  in  preaching.  Mr.  Azbill  returned  to  America  within  a year. 
His  purpose  was  to  secure  more  workers.  He  is  in  Japan  again. 
He  has  a preaching  place  where  meetings  are  held  three  times  a 
week.  He  gives  lessons  to  two  Bible-classes  in  connection  with  the 
Meiji-Jo-Gakko,  and  gives  instruction  three  times  a week  to  a gen- 
tleman who  is  making  a special  study  of  Christianity.  As  he  can 
find  time  he  engages  in  literary  work.  He  has  in  preparation  two 
small  volumes — one  on  Baptism  and  one  on  the  History  of  the  New 
Testament  Books.  With  the  assistance  of  Miss  Scott  and  Miss 
Hostetter,  he  is  arranging  to  put  up  a chapel.  Miss  Alice  Miller 
reached  Japan  last  April.  She  teaches  three  Bible-classes  a week; 
has  a class  in  English  in  the  Sunday-school;  with  the  help  of  sev- 
eral Christian  girls  conducts  an  afternoon  Sunday-school,  and 
teaches  English  four  hours  a week  in  the  Meiji-Jo-Gakko.  If  the 
time  needed  for  correspondence  and  entertainment  and  the  study  of 
the  language  is  considered,  it  will  be  seen  that  these  workers  have 
their  hands  full. 

The  Disciples  of  Christ  stand  for  precisely  the  same  thing  in 
Japan  that  they  do  at  home,  namely,  the  union  of  all  believers  to 
the  end  that  the  whole  world  may  be  evangelized.  It  is  true  that 
most  Protestant  missionaries  cooperate.  Still  there  are  differences 
in  faith  and  in  practice  that  can  not  be  hid.  It  is  no  answer  to  say 
that  Buddhism  has  many  sects.  Then  there  are  the  wider  differ- 
ences between  Protestants  and  Roman  Catholics  and  Greeks.  If  all 
who  call  upon  the  name  of  the  Lord  could  unite,  the  chief  hin- 
drance to  the  spread  of  the  Gospel  would  be  taken  out  of  the  way. 
The  Japanese  want  the  very  thing  for  which  we  plead.  They  want 
the  Christianity  of  Christ,  and  not  the  creeds,  or  dogmas,  or  theolo- 
gies, or  customs  of  men.  One  of  the  ablest  men  in  Japan  says  that 
there  are  hardly  any  of  his  countrymen  who  are  loyal  to  the  creeds 


WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  JAPAN 


95 


and  dogmas  which  constitute  the  foundations  of  the  several  denom- 
inations. Common  believers,  he  adds,  have  been  ignorant,  from 
the  beginning,  of  sects  and  denominations;  but  never  before  have 
these  been  so  coldly  disregarded  by  the  ministers  and  officers  in  the 
churches  as  now.  One  prevailing  current  throughout  all  denomina- 
tions is  church  union,  and  this  current  is  growing  stronger  and 
higher  and  swifter.  Leading  men  in  the  churches  pay  most  diligent 
attention  to  the  practical  question  of  church  union,  and  utterly 
none  to  the  preservation  of  the  denominations.  All  are  waiting 
anxiously  for  the  time  and  the  man  to  take  the  final  step  toward  a 
glorious  reformation  in  Japan.  The  Japanese  desire  and  pray  for 
what  we  desire  and  pray,  that  there  may  be  one  flock,  one  Shepherd. 
Now  is  the  time  for  us  to  publish  far  and  wide  the  truth  which  we 
bold,  and  thereby  help  the  Japanese  to  realize  that  which  they  so 
devoutly  wish. 


XIY. 


CHRISTIANITY  IN  JAPAN. 

Japan  was  opened  to  the  Gospel  in  July,  1859.  Before  the  close 
of  the  year  six  missionaries,  representing  three  American  societies, 
were  on  the  ground.  One  was  here  two  months  before  the  date 
named  in  the  treaty.  The  Japanese  signified  their  desire  to  receive 
whatever  foreigners  might  bring,  except  opium  and  Christianity. 
A nation  professedly  Christian  had  forced  opium  on  China.  The 
Japanese  thought  these  two  things  were  one  and  inseparable.  It 
is  plain  that  they  did  not  know  what  Christianity  really  is.  The 
first  workers  were  closely  watched.  All  business  with  them  was 
under  the  strictest  surveillance.  For  a time  no  teacher  could  be 
engaged,  and  then  only  a government  spy.  For  several  years  the 
people  were  not  accessible  on  religious  matters.  When  the  subject 
was  opened  to  one  he  would  place  his  hand  to  his  throat  to  indicate 
the  extreme  peril  of  the  topic.  It  was  impossible  to  find  an  audi- 
ence that  dared  to  listen  to  the  preaching  of  the  Gospel.  For  two 
hundred  and  fifty  years  it  was  a capital  crime  for  a Japanese  to  con- 
fess faith  in  the  Christ.  Bulletin  boards  in  all  parts  of  the  Empire 
were  covered  with  edicts  to  that  effect.  The  missionaries  were 
believed  to  be  persons  who  came  to  the  “ God-country  ” to  seduce 
the  people  from  their  loyalty  to  the  Emperor,  and  to  corrupt  their 
morals  generally.  Christianity  was  regarded  with  feelings  of 
intense  hatred  and  fear.  Its  advocates  were  exposed  to  insult  and 
assault.  The  soldiers  scowled  on  them  as  they  passed  them  in  the 
street,  and  would  gladly  have  expelled  them  as  barbarians  from  the 
sacred  soil.  The  government  was  confessedly  hostile.  As  late  as 
1868  several  thousand  Roman  Catholics  were  torn  from  their  homes 
and  confined  in  prisons  in  different  parts  of  the  Empire.  Lest  any 
one  should  mistake  its  temper,  and  think  that  an  era  of  toleration 
had  begun,  a new  edict  was  placed  on  the  boards:  “ The  evil  sect 
called  Christian  is  strictly  prohibited.  Suspected  persons  are  to 
be  reported  to  the  respective  officials,  and  rewards  will  be  given." 
Years  after  this  a book-seller  in  Kobe  was  asked  if  he  would  be 
allowed  to  sell  English  Bibles.  His  reply  was  that  any  book-seller 
who  sold  a Bible,  knowing  it  to  be  a Bible,  would  have  to  go  to 

96 


MISS  KATE  JOHNSON,  TOKYO,  JAPAN, 


CHRISTIANITY  IN  JAPAN 


97 


prison.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  statement  made  after  the  signing 
of  the  treaties,  to  the  effect  that  Japan  was  fully  opened  to  the 
spread  of  Christianity,  is  far  from  accurate. 

The  missionaries  wei’e  not  cast  down.  They  felt  confident  that 
in  God’s  good  time  the  Empire  would  be  opened.  They  could  not 
preach  in  public,  but  they  did  what  they  could.  They  studied  the 
language,  prepared  grammars  and  dictionaries,  translated  portions 
of  the  Scriptures,  and  relieved  the  unfortunate.  They  opened 
schools  and  taught  the  English  language  and  Western  science.  Dr. 
Hepburn  opened  a hospital  and  relieved  the  sufferings  and  attended 
to  the  spiritual  needs  of  thousands.  His  surgical  operations  aston- 
ished the  Japanese,  and  did  much  to  create  a demand  for  foreign 
medicine.  They  sought,  above  all,  by  pure  and  upright  lives  and 
kindness,  to  convince  the  people  that  they  were  not  such  beings  as 
they  believed.  Dr.  Verbeck  was  told  that  there  were  spies  in  his 
house.  He  said  he  was  glad  to  hear  it.  The  more  spies  there  were 
about  the  better.  There  was  nothing  in  his  house  or  in  his  life  to 
conceal. 

The  schools  opened  by  the  missionaries  were  the  means  under 
God  of  securing  a measure  of  good  will  and  toleration.  The  sol- 
diers were  the  literary  class,  and  they  wanted  to  study  English. 
They  saw  in  English  the  key  to  Western  science.  Men  of  this  class 
went  to  the  missionaries  and  asked  to  be  taught  English.  The  gov- 
ernment sent  a dozen  young  men  of  rank  to  a mission  school  for 
the  same  purpose.  That  event  marked  an  epoch.  It  indicated  a 
change  in  the  minds  of  the  officials  respecting  the  character  and 
motives  of  the  missionaries.  It  was  a practical  recognition  of  them 
and  of  their  work.  When  schools  were  opened  in  Nagasaki  and 
Tokyo,  missionaries  were  invited  to  teach  in  them.  We  read  of 
an  English  engineer  and  a French  corporal  being  engaged  to  teach, 
but  the  missionaries  were  by  far  the  most  competent  teachers  avail- 
able. They  advised  the  government  in  all  matters  pertaining  to 
education.  They  helped  to  secure  able  teachers  from  America  and 
to  locate  the  young  men  sent  to  America  to  be  educated. 

The  first  church  was  organized  in  Yokohama  in  1872.  That  was 
thirteen  years  after  the  arrival  of  the  first  workers.  It  was  still  a 
crime,  punishable  by  death,  to  become  a Christian.  The  pro- 
hibitory edicts  were  still  unrepealed.  But  there  was  a better  feel- 
ing on  the  part  of  the  people  and  the  authorities.  The  missionaries 
had,  by  their  Christian  character  and  conduct  and  patient  labor, 
dispelled  many  false  notions.  They  had  carried  themselves  before 
7 


98 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


their  pupils  in  the  schools  and  elsewhere  in  such  a way  as  to  compel 
their  respect.  Embassies  had  been  sent  to  Europe  and  America. 
They  expected  to  find  barbarous  nations.  They  took  a supply  of 
salt  along  among  their  effects,  thinking  that  they  would  not  find 
that  useful  article  for  sale.  They  found  a degree  of  material  pros- 
perity and  a civilization  far  surpassing  what  they  had  anticipated, 
and  far  surpassing  anything  they  had  at  home.  They  found  that 
the  ablest  statesmen  and  the  profoundest  scholars  regarded  Chris- 
tianity as  the  chief  power  working  for  righteousness  and  for 
national  prosperity.  They  found  that  Christianity  produced  the 
highest  type  of  manhood.  These  embassies  were  received  by  Chris- 
tian nations  with  distinguished  consideration.  It  was  impossible 
for  them  to  feel  as  they  had  felt.  They  could  no  longer  regard 
Christian  men  with  horror  and  aversion,  and  Christianity  as  a men- 
ace to  the  welfare  of  the  nation.  They  could  not  but  feel  some 
revei’ence  for  the  faith  of  Christendom.  So,  while  the  laws  pro- 
hibiting Christianity  were  not  repealed,  it  was  believed  that  they 
would  not  be  enforced.  The  laws  against  a Japanese  returning 
were  still  in  force,  but  they  were  a dead  letter.  It  was  felt  that  if 
there  were  any  executions  they  would  be  the  last.  Eleven  men 
united  to  form  a church.  Their  expectations  were  not  disap- 
pointed; they  were  not  molested. 

The  next  year  the  edicts  were  taken  down.  This  was  due  to  the 
work  of  the  missionaries.  In  1871,  Mr.  Gulick’s  Japanese  teacher 
was  suspected  of  being  a Christian  at  heart.  He  was  interested, 
but  had  not  been  baptized.  At  dead  of  night  he  and  his  wife  were 
arrested  and  sent  off  to  prison.  The  American  Minister  and  Con- 
sul pleaded  for  his  release,  but  their  plea  was  without  effect.  After 
some  time  it  was  discovered  that  they  had  been  imprisoned  in 
Kyoto,  and  that  the  teacher  died  there.  When  the  second  embassy 
went  to  the  United  States  to  urge  that  the  treaty  be  revised,  Ham- 
ilton Fish  told  them  that  so  long  as  Japan  did  not  repeal  the  laws 
against  Christianity,  the  United  States  would  not  consent  to  place 
its  citizens  under  Japanese  jurisdiction.  The  embassy  denied  that 
there  was  any  religious  persecution  in  Japan.  Mr.  DeLong,  former 
Minister,  mentioned  the  case  of  Mr.  Gulick’s  teacher,  and  stated 
that  the  matter  had  been  brought  under  his  official  notice.  No 
answer  was  made  to  his  statement,  but  in  a little  while  the  edicts 
were  taken  down.  It  was  said  that  they  were  sufficiently  engraved 
on  the  minds  of  the  people.  Oriental  rulers  are  slow  to  admit  any 
change  of  policy  or  any  abrogation  of  law.  The  removal  of  the 
edicts  virtually  amounted  to  a declaration  of  liberty  of  conscience. 


CHEISTIAXITY  IX  JAPAX 


99 


The  people  understood  it  so,  and  the  government  was  quite  willing 
that  this  construction  should  be  placed  upon  its  action.  That  was 
the  last  of  religious  persecution.  The  Roman  Catholics  that  had 
been  sent  to  prison  five  years  before  were  liberated  and  allowed  to 
return  to  their  homes.  That  year  twenty-nine  new  workers  reached 
Japan.  This  was  the  largest  number  that  had  ever  been  sent  out 
in  one  year.  The  translation  of  the  Scriptures  by  a committee  rep- 
resenting all  the  societies  wishing  to  aid  in  the  work  was  begun, 
and  three  years  later  the  government  ordered  the  observance  of 
Sunday. 

The  Christianizing  of  Japan  has  grown  steadily  from  the  first. 
Different  societies  felt  that  they  must  do  something  in  this  field. 
Year  by  year  the  number  of  workei-s  has  increased.  There  are 
thirty  societies  operating  in  Japan.  The  whole  number  of  Prot- 
estant missionaries  is  six  hundred  and  twenty-five.  There  are  four 
hundred  organized  churches.  Of  these  ninety-one  are  self-support- 
ing, and  two  hundred  and  seventy  partially  so.  The  Protestant 
Christians  number  thirty-nine  thousand  two  hundred  and  forty. 
There  are  twenty  high  grade  schools  for  boys,  fifty-one  for  girls, 
and  twenty  theological  schools,  with  three  hundred  and  fifty-three 
students.  There  are  two  hundred  and  fifty-eight  Japanese  minis- 
ters, and  two  hundred  and  nine  Bible  women  at  work.  There  are 
fifty-seven  Endeavor  Societies,  fifty  Young  Men’s  Christian  Associ- 
ations, eighteen  societies  of  King’s  Daughters,  twenty-nine  orphan- 
ages, and  one  hundred  night,  industrial  and  special  schools  and 
classes.  The  Scriptures  have  been  translated,  and  a million  copies 
circulated;  each  year  seventy-five  thousand  copies  are  sold.  There 
are  some  forty  weekly,  monthly,  or  quarterly  newspapers  or  maga- 
zines under  Christian  management.  The  American  Board  sent  its 
first  workers  to  Japan  in  1869.  This  Board  has  more  missionaries 
in  Japan  than  any  other.  These  workers  have  organized  sixty 
churches  with  a total  membership  of  eleven  thousand.  Of  these 
churches  forty  are  self-supporting.  The  converts  are  taught  that 
the  churches  must  be  self-supporting  and  self-governing.  The 
Roman  Catholics  and  the  Greeks  are  at  work  in  this  field.  The 
Catholics  report  forty-nine  thousand  two  hundred  and  eighty  mem- 
bers, and  the  Greek  Church  twenty-two  thousand.  Once  it  was 
thought  that  Japan  would  be  a Christian  nation  before  the  end  of 
the  present  century.  President  Kozaki  speaks  of  this  thought  as 
the  air-castle  of  children.  No  one  speaks  now  of  the  immediate 
conversion  of  Japan;  no  one  doubts  the  ultimate  triumph  of  the 
Gospel  in  this  land. 


100 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


It  was  the  earnest  desire  of  the  missionaries  that  they  should 
cooperate  to  form  one  native  church.  They  wanted  to  secure  unity 
of  name  and  organization.  They  wished  all  converts  to  be  per- 
fectly joined  together  in  the  same  mind  and  the  same  judgment,  to 
all  speak  the  same  thing,  and  to  wear  the  same  name.  They  sought 
not  to  import  the  differences  that  exist  at  home.  The  Japanese 
cannot  understand  these.  If  they  did,  they  have  no  interest  in  per- 
petuating them.  Their  desire  was  to  reproduce  the  apostolic  doc- 
trine, the  apostolic  ordinances,  and  the  apostolic  life.  Their 
purpose  was  opposed  and  thwarted  by  friends  at  home  who  wanted 
to  be  able  to  see  and  count  results.  Among  the  workers  love  and 
good  will  prevail.  They  respect  one  another’s  convictions.  They 
unite  as  far  as  they  can.  Three  bodies  united  to  form  one.  These 
were  substantially  alike  in  doctrine  and  in  polity.  The  preaching 
and  teaching  of  the  missionaries  is  pre-eminently  Biblical.  This 
brings  them  close  together.  In  the  presence  of  Buddhism  or  Con- 
fucianism and  Shintoism  and  secularism,  they  feel  the  need  of  har- 
mony and  cooperation.  The  lengthy  creeds  of  Christendom  have 
no  place  here.  Whether  men  like  it  or  not,  there  is  a necessity 
for  a return  to  the  simplicity  of  the  apostolic  church.  It  is  worthy 
of  special  mention  that  the  eleven  men  that  formed  themselves  into 
a church  in  Yokohama  called  their  organization  a “Church  of 
Christ.’’  The  missionary  was  a representative  of  the  Reformed 
Church  in  America,  but  that  was  no  reason  for  calling  the  church 
in  Japan  a Reformed  Church.  These  men  knew  nothing  of  John 
Calvin  or  of  his  teaching  as  distinguished  from  that  of  Luther. 
The  churches  organized  by  the  workers  under  the  American  Board 
call  themselves  “Churches  of  Christ.”  They  are  Congregational 
in  polity,  but  that  is  not  intimated  in  the  name  adopted.  The 
three  churches  that  united  called  the  resultant  the  “Japanese 
Church  of  Christ.”  These  churches  are  Presbyterian  in  their  gov- 
ernment, but  that  is  an  incident.  In  Japan  what  they  wish  to 
emphasize  is  that  they  belong  to  Christ,  and  stand  for  him.  The 
church  of  the  future  will  be  a united  church  with  a scriptural  creed. 


XV. 


TRAMPLING  ON  THE  CROSS. 

In  the  Imperial  Museum  in  Tokyo  I saw  some  engravings  rep- 
resenting Christ  on  the  cross.  The  plates  are  of  bronze,  and  are 
fastened  to  blocks  of  wood.  These  engravings  have  a history. 
Nothing  in  the  museum  stirred  me  so  deeply.  It  is  generally  known 
that  Christianity  entered  Japan  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth 
century.  For  a time  it  was  regarded  with  favor.  After  a while, 
for  reasons  of  state,  the  authorities  decided  to  extirpate  it.  In  the 
persecution  resorted  to  with  this  end  in  view,  these  engravings 
were  used  to  discover  secret  believers.  The  people  were  called 
upon  to  trample  on  the  figure  of  Christ  on  the  cross.  As  many  as 
did  so  were  not  molested;  those  that  refused  were  turned  over  to 
the  tormentors. 

Francis  Xavier  landed  in  Japan  in  1549.  In  Malacca  he  made 
the  acquaintance  of  two  Japanese  exiles.  These  were  instructed 
and  baptized.  Xavier  heard  of  a Japanese  prince  who  desired  that 
Christian  teachers  be  sent  to  him  that  he  might  learn  from  their 
own  lips  the  truths  of  Christianity.  His  heart  had  long  been  set 
on  visiting  Japan.  The  way  now  seemed  open.  Taking  the  two 
Japanese  Christians  as  helpers,  he  sailed  for  Japan.  The  prince 
received  him  with  marked  courtesy.  Xavier  studied  the  language, 
but  only  a little.  He  was  never  able  to  preach  in  Japanese  so  as 
to  be  understood.  Speaking  through  interpreters,  he  won  many  to 
the  faith.  Nobles,  priests,  scholars,  and  the  poor  and  ignorant, 
were  among  the  converts.  Xavier  went  to  the  capital,  but  found 
it  desolated  by  war  and  fires.  He  tried  to  preach,  but  could  not 
get  the  attention  of  the  people.  He  was  disgusted,  and  left  Japan 
disheartened  by  the  realities  of  missionary  work.  He  was  in  the 
country  less  than  three  years,  but  he  left  an  impression  that  has 
never  been  effaced.  He  died  soon  after  at  the  age  of  forty-six. 
The  work  did  not  cease  with  his  departure.  Others  took  up  the 
task  he  abandoned,  and  won  great  success.  Christianity  spread 
rapidly  in  the  South,  and  was  carried  to  the  farthest  provinces  of 
the  North.  In  1581  the  converts  amounted  to  one  hundred  and 

fifty  thousand.  The  staff  of  workers  numbered  one  hundred  and 

101 


102 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


thirty-eight.  They  were  Jesuits  without  exception.  Two  years 
later  an  embassy  was  sent  by  the  believing  princes  to  Rome.  In 
their  letters  they  declared  their  gratitude  for  the  happiness  vouch- 
safed to  them  through  the  knowledge  of  Christ.  They  begged  the 
Pope  to  look  with  favor  upon  them  and  upon  all  the  Christians  in 
their  dominions.  They  declared  themselves  the  vassals  of  the 
Holy  See.  This  embassy  was  received  in  Rome  with  the  greatest 
honors.  At  one  time  there  were  six  hundred  thousand  Christians 
in  the  Empire.  The  Japanese  say  there  were  two  million. 

The  Portuguese  were  the  first  to  enter  Japan  as  traders.  The 
Jesuits  came  with  them.  The  profitableness  of  this  trade  led  the 
Spaniards  to  send  ships  to  Japan.  With  the  Spaniards  came  the 
Franciscans  and  the  Dominicans.  The  priests  and  monks  soon 
began  to  quarrel  among  themselves.  The  Jesuits  were  first  on 
the  ground,  and  regarded  all  others  as  interlopers.  Each  party  cir- 
culated evil  reports  about  the  motives  and  intentions  of  the  other. 
Soon  after  this  the  English  and  Dutch  arrived  on  the  scene. 
They  wanted  a share  in  the  profits  of  this  trade.  They  saw  that  it 
was  largely  through  the  influence  of  the  Jesuits  that  the  Portu- 
guese had  a monopoly  of  the  commerce  with  Japan.  The}'  went 
to  work  to  break  down  this  influence.  They  confirmed  the  evil 
reports  that  the  Jesuits  invented  about  the  Franciscans,  and  the 
evil  reports  that  the  Franciscans  invented  about  the  Jesuits. 
High  Japanese  officials  became  suspicious  of  all  parties.  A sea 
captain  was  asked  how  Spain  was  able  to  conquer  so  many  nations. 
His  reply  was,  “ Our  country  sends  missionaries  to  convert  the 
heathen,  and  after  a while  we  send  the  army.  Then  the  Christians 
help  us,  and  the  victory  is  easy  and  complete.”  Hideyoshi,  the 
greatest  statesman  and  soldier  of  Japan,  was  in  power  at  the  time. 
He  resolved  that  he  would  make  such  a course  impossible.  He 
issued  an  edict  calling  upon  all  foreign  religious  teachers  to  leave 
the  country  within  twenty  days,  on  penalty  of  death.  He  declared 
that  it  was  wrong  for  God’s  country  to  accept  a false  faith  from  a 
foreign  nation. 

When  the  Jesuits  had  the  power  in  Japan,  they  prevailed  upon 
the  princes  to  compel  their  subjects  to  follow  their  example  and 
to  adopt  the  Christian  faith.  One  pi’ince  gave  his  subjects  the 
option  of  conversion  or  exile.  Another  did  the  same,  and  robbed 
Buddhist  priests  of  their  temples  and  lands.  Princes  used  their 
authority  to  advance  the  cause  of  Catholicism.  Hideyoshi  re- 
garded the  foreign  religious  teachers  and  their  doctrine  as  a source 
of  danger  to  the  country.  With  him  the  question  was  purely  polit- 


TRAMPLING  ON  THE  CROSS 


103 


ical.  The  two  systems  could  not  live  in  peace  side  by  side.  His 
thought  was  that  the  simplest  and  safest  course  was  to  expel  the 
weaker  of  the  two.  He  gave  orders  that  the  European  and  Japa- 
nese members  of  the  religious  orders  should  be  sent  out  of  the 
country,  that  all  churches  should  be  torn  down,  and  all  the  con- 
verts compelled  to  renounce  their  faith.  The  priests  were  pru- 
dent, and  shut  themselves  up  till  the  storm  should  become  a calm. 
They  gave  attention  to  the  preparation  of  books  and  to  the  educa- 
tion of  a native  ministry.  Meanwhile  they  carried  on  their  work 
quietly.  The  converts  numbered  ten  thousand  a year. 

It  was  not  long,  however,  until  the  persecutions  broke  out 
afresh.  This  was  caused  in  part  by  the  conduct  of  the  Portuguese 
and  Spanish  priests.  Their  national  and  sectarian  antipathies 
were  aggravated  by  contact  on  the  field.  Each  slandered  the  other. 
The  Buddhist  priests  did  all  in  their  power  to  poison  the  minds  of 
the  rulers  against  the  foreigners.  The  government  went  to  work 
to  destroy  Christianity,  root  and  branch.  Rewards  were  offered  to 
any  who  would  inform  where  believers  were  to  be  found.  Thus 
three  hundred  pieces  of  silver  were  offered  to  one  who  would 
inform  against  a father;  two  hundred  to  one  who  would  inform 
against  a brother,  and  fifty  to  any  one  who  would  inform  against 
a catechist.  Later  these  rewards  were  doubled.  It  is  said  by  an 
historian  that  these  persecutions  have  never  been  surpassed  for 
cruelty  and  brutality,  or  for  the  courage  and  constancy  of  the  suf- 
ferers. W e are  told  how  they  were  hurled  from  lofty  precipices, 
of  their  being  buried  alive,  or  being  torn  asunder  by  oxen,  of 
their  being  placed  in  rice  bags  and  heaped  together  and  set  on  fire. 
Others  were  tortured  before  death  by  having  spikes  driven  under 
the  nails  of  their  hands  and  feet.  Others  were  shut  up  in  cages 
and  starved  with  food  insight.  In  one  year  three  hundred  and 
eighty-four  persons  were  tortured,  including  beating  with  clubs, 
and  burning  and  torture  by  the  boiling  springs.  The  hot  water  was 
poured  over  them,  and  they  were  compelled  to  breathe  the  suffo- 
cating sulphurous  air  which  the  springs  emitted.  In  some 
instances  the  back  was  slit  open,  and  the  boiling  water  poured  on 
the  raw  flesh.  Naked  women  were  compelled  to  walk  on  their 
hands  and  knees  through  the  streets  of  the  city.  Some  were  hung 
by  the  feet  over  a deep  pit.  The  suffering  was  unimaginable.  The 
pressure  on  the  brain  was  terrible ; blood  was  forced  from  the  mouth 
and  nostrils.  The  victims  lived  sometimes  eight  or  nine  days  before 
death  came  to  their  relief.  One  girl  lived  fifteen  days,  and  died  in 
the  faith.  Twelve  persons  were  captured  in  hiding,  near  Nagasaki; 


104 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


they  were  branded  with  a hot  iron  on  the  forehead  and  then  on 
each  cheek,  and  then,  because  they  would  not  recant,  they  were 
burned.  Prices  were  placed  on  the  heads  of  priests.  If  a priest 
was  found  in  any  household,  the  whole  family  was  put  to  death. 
The  early  history  of  the  church  has  no  brighter  pages  than  those 
that  contain  the  records  of  martyrdoms  in  Japan.  Parents  took 
their  children  with  them  to  death  rather  than  let  them  be  educated 
in  the  ancient  faith. 

Some  were  driven  to  desperation  and  raised  the  standard  of 
rebellion.  In  connection  with  some  political  malcontents  they 
seized  and  fortified  a castle.  It  took  an  army  of  160,000  men  two 
months  to  reduce  this  fortress.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  big  Dutch 
ship  and  guns  which  the  Japanese  borrowed,  it  may  have  been  that 
they  would  not  have  reduced  it  at  all.  Every  man  and  woman  and 
child  in  the  castle  was  put  to  death.  Then  it  was  that  the  govern- 
ment resolved  to  exterminate  Christianity  at  any  cost.  Hundreds 
of  native  priests  and  missionaries  were  collected  and  placed  on 
board  junks  and  sent  out  of  the  country.  Buddhist  priests  were 
deputed  to  paganize  the  converts.  An  edict  prohibiting  “the  evil 
sect”  was  published  in  all  parts  of  the  Empire.  Another  said  that 
so  long  as  the  sun  shines  no  Christian  shall  enter  Japan  and  no 
native  leave  it.  Griffis  says  that  all  over  the  Empire,  in  every 
city,  town,  village  and  hamlet,  by  the  roadside,  ferry,  or  mountain 
pass;  at  every  entrance  to  the  capital,  stood  the  public  notice 
boards,  on  which,  with  prohibitions  against  the  great  crimes  that 
disturb  the  relations  of  society  and  government,  was  one  tablet, 
written  with  a deeper  brand  of  guilt,  with  a more  hideous  memory 
of  blood,  with  a more  awful  terror  of  torture,  than  when  a like 
superscription  was  affixed  at  the  top  of  a cross  that  stood  between 
two  thieves  on  a little  hill  outside  of  Jerusalem.  “That  name 
would  bate  the  breath,  blanch  the  cheek,  smite  with  fear  as  an 
earthquake  shock.  It  was  a synonym  of  sorcery,  sedition,  and  all 
that  was  hostile  to  the  purity  of  the  home  or  to  the  peace  of 
society.  That  name  was  Christ.” 

Nagasaki  was  the  center  and  stronghold  of  the  new  faith.  A 
governor  was  appointed  and  commissioned  to  root  out  every  vestige 
of  Christianity.  He  went  to  work  resolved  upon  complete  success. 
He  selected  a headman  for  every  street  and  an  overseer  for  every 
five  houses.  He  held  them  responsible  for  their  districts.  Not 
content  with  that,  he  himself  went  through  every  street  and  into 
every  house,  and  examined  every  person.  If  the  inmates  were  not 
Christians,  or  had  renounced  their  faith,  he  did  not  trouble  them. 


1.  Josephine  Smith’s  Grave. 

2.  Josephine  Smith  Memorial  Chapel.  Akita.  Japan. 

3.  Sue  A.  Robinson’s  Grave.  Hurda.  India. 


TRAMPLING  ON  THE  CROSS 


105 


If  not,  they  were  sent  off  to  be  tortured.  In  order  to  make  assur- 
ance doubly  sure,  he  adopted  the  novel  method  already  alluded  to 
in  this  article  to  detect  secret  believers.  He  had  a picture  of 
Christ  on  the  cross,  and  he  required  the  people  to  demonstrate 
their  unbelief  by  trampling  on  it.  This  picture  was  carried  from 
house  to  house  till  the  whole  city  was  finished.  The  head  of  the 
house,  the  whole  family,  servants  of  both  sexes,  old  and  young,  any 
visitors  or  sojourners,  were  called  into  the  room.  Each  was  asked 
to  set  his  foot  on  the  plate.  Infants  were  carried  by  their  mothers 
and  made  to  place  their  feet  on  the  image  of  the  Crucified.  The 
Japanese  who  worked  in  the  Dutch  factory  were  required  to  do  the 
same.  Before  the  persecution  began,  whole  districts  were  virtually 
Christian;  Nagasaki  was  distinctively  a Christian  city.  In  1567  it 
is  said  that  there  was  hardly  a person  within  its  borders  who  was 
not  a Christian.  In  1629  not  one  was  left  who  would  acknowledge 
that  he  was  a believer.  The  governor  was  proud  of  the  fact  that 
he  had  accomplished  the  task  assigned  him. 

Before  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century  it  was  believed  that 
Christianity  had  been  so  completely  eradicated  from  Japan  that  its 
existence  was  historical.  It  was  regarded  only  as  “an  awful  scar 
on  the  national  memory.”  No  vestige  of  it  was  believed  to  remain. 
The  Dutch  had  one  trading  port  near  Nagasaki.  Here  less  than 
twenty  Hollanders  lived  under  surveillance.  They  were  allowed 
one  ship  a year  to  come  and  trade  with  Japan.  They  were  granted 
this  because  they  did  not  engage  in  any  religious  propagandism ; 
their  sole  object  was  trade.  But  the  fire  smouldered  for  more  than 
two  centuries ; it  had  not  gone  out.  After  Japan  was  opened,  sev- 
eral thousand  Catholics  were  discovered  in  the  villages  near 
Nagasaki.  Chamberlain  says  that  without  priests,  without  teach- 
ers, without  almost  any  published  instructions,  they  had  kept  alive 
a knowledge  of  the  religion  which  their  ancestors  had  professed. 
They  had  the  Lord’s  Prayer,  and  a few  other  prayers,  and  the  ordi- 
nance of  baptism.  There  was  great  joy  over  this  discovery.  But 
the  old  hatred  and  fear  were  still  alive.  In  1868  the  government 
arrested  four  thousand  of  these  people  and  sent  them  off  to  prison. 
They  were  scattered  among  thirty-four  prisons,  and  condemned  to 
hard  labor.  Lest  any  one  should  misunderstand  the  spirit  of  the 
Emperor,  new  edicts  were  put  up.  These  said:  “The  evil  sect 

called  Christians  is  strictly  prohibited.  Such  persons  should  be 
reported  to  the  proper  officers,  and  rewards  will  be  given.”  These 
edicts  were  not  taken  down  till  1873.  Then  these  Christians  were 


106 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


set  at  liberty  and  returned  to  their  homes.  The  Constitution  guar- 
antees to  every  Japanese  religious  liberty. 

This  incident  shows  how  useless  it  is  to  fight  against  God.  It 
would  be  as  easy  to  keep  out  the  sunshine,  or  keep  out  the  tides,  as 
to  keep  out  Christianity.  Fire  and  sword  cannot  prevail  against 
the  Omnipotent.  It  is  his  purpose  that  the  whole  world  shall  be 
filled  with  his  glory,  and  his  purpose  is  never  defeated.  Tycoon 
and  Mikado  may  issue  prohibitory  edicts,  but  their  edicts  shall 
come  to  naught.  Yesterday  I walked  the  streets  of  Nagasaki  and 
saw  Christians  everywhere.  The  hilltops  are  crowned  with  Chris- 
tian schools  and  chapels  and  homes.  I looked  into  the  homes  of 
the  people  where  the  inquisitors  did  their  work,  and  where  the  ter- 
rified inmates  trampled  on  the  cross.  I saw  the  rock  in  the  harbor 
from  which  those  who  refused  to  recant  were  thrown.  In  the  bay 
are  ships  representing  all  Christian  nations.  The  Shogunate, 
which  originated  and  directed  the  persecution,  has  passed  away  like 
a dream  of  night.  It  shows,  too,  something  of  the  indestructibility 
of  Christianity.  If  a corrupted  faith  could  survive  for  centuries  in 
the  absence  of  the  Scriptures  and  qualified  leaders,  what  may  we 
not  expect  from  Christianity  in  its  purity  and  where  its  exponents 
have  the  Word  of  God  in  their  own  tongue?  It  shows  us  once 
more  that  the  Japanese  are  not  so  fickle  as  is  sometimes  claimed. 
Perhaps  no  other  people  would  have  resisted  unto  blood  with  fewer 
cases  of  apostasy,  or  would  have  endured  so  long  with  so  little  to 
cheer  and  encourage  them.  No  one  can  pay  a higher  tribute  to  the 
Japanese  than  to  recite  this  chapter  in  their  history.  No  other 
answer  is  needed  when  they  are  charged  with  being  as  unstable  as 
water.  This  incident  affords  all  who  labor  and  pray  for  the  evan- 
gelization of  Japan  sure  ground  for  the  conviction  that  their  labor 
is  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord. 


XVI. 


SOME  CUKIOUS  THINGS  IN  JAPAN. 

For  several  centuries  Japan  had  no  intercourse  with  the  rest  of 
the  world.  As  a result,  her  people  differ  in  many  respects  from 
Western  nations.  One  of  the  things  that  impress  a stranger  is  the 
fact  that  mechanics  and  tradesmen  sit  at  their  work.  A blacksmith 
has  his  forge  and  anvil  and  vise  on  the  ground.  He  sits  on  the 
floor  while  using  his  hammer  and  tongs.  He  can  blow  his  bellows 
with  his  hand  or  with  his  toes,  as  he  prefers.  A cooper  sits  at  his 
work.  He  uses  his  feet  to  hold  his  materials  in  place.  Carpenters, 
stone-cutters  and  cabinet-makers  sit  at  their  work.  An  American 
could  do  almost  nothing  in  that  posture.  A Japanese  does  nothing 
while  standing  that  he  could  do  while  seated.  What  is  true  of 
mechanics  is  true  of  merchants.  They  do  not  stand  while  waiting 
for  customers,  or  while  trying  to  sell  their  goods.  They  sit  on 
their  feet,  and  are  prepared  to  bow  to  any  one  who  calls  to  examine 
their  wares.  Hotel  clerks  and  book-keepers  in  the  stores  sit  on  the 
floor  behind  their  desks.  The  Buddha  is  represented  as  sitting  on 
a lotus  blossom.  Having  attained  to  perfect  knowledge,  and  hav- 
ing conquered  passion,  he  reposes  in  eternal  slumber.  He  is  never 
represented  as  “going  about  doing  good.” 

One  sees  few  labor-saving  machines.  The  Japanese  have  not 
used  their  intellects  to  make  life  easier  and  more  comfortable  for 
themselves.  They  have  not  utilized  the  mighty  forces  of  nature  to 
bear  their  burdens  and  to  do  their  work.  There  are  a few  high  smoke- 
stacks, but  these  are  confined  to  the  large  cities.  These  are  of  yes- 
terday and  represent  foreign  capital  and  foreign  methods.  Most  of 
the  articles  produced  in  Japan  are  produced  by  hand  and  in  a small 
way.  Horses  are  used,  but  these  horses  ai’e  either  weak  or  the  peo- 
ple think  they  are.  You  will  see  a man  in  the  shafts  pulling  with  a 
breaststrap,  while  a horse  is  pulling  ahead  of  him,  and  his  wife  or 
his  boy  leads  the  horse.  The  load  may  not  weigh  over  six  hundred 
pounds.  An  American  horse  would  pull  the  load  and  the  man  and 
his  family,  and  scarcely  feel  the  burden.  In  the  North  of  Japan  I 
saw  men  driving  piles  by  hand.  A steam  hammer  would  do  more 

work  in  an  hour  than  these  men  could  do  in  a week.  Men  saw  logs 

107 


108 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


with  a hand-saw.  One  of  our  workers  told  a carpenter  how  timber 
was  sawed  in  America.  The  carpenter  did  not  believe  him.  He 
said,  “ I have  been  in  this  business  twentj'-five  jrears,  and  I know 
you  are  saying  what  is  not  true.”  As  simple  a thing  as  a wheel- 
barrow is  not  seen  anywhere.  Men  carry  clay  and  stone  on  their 
shoulders.  Large  junks  are  propelled  by  oars  or  poles.  A steam 
tug  would  drive  a fleet  of  such  craft.  Where  labor  is  so  cheap  as  it 
is  in  Japan  men  have  not  felt  that  it  was  necessary  to  make  steam 
and  electricity  do  their  work.  It  has  not  occurred  to  them  that 
the  forces  of  nature  are  the  cheapest  and  most  efficient  of  all 
servants. 

Policemen  are  everywhere.  They  are  found  on  almost  evei’y 
corner  in  the  cities.  They  are  in  the  smallest  villages.  There  are 
ten  times  as  many  policemen  in  Tokyo  as  there  are  in  Chicago  or 
London.  The  people  are  quiet  and  orderly.  I saw  but  one  drunken 
man  and  no  fighting.  The  Japanese  are  easily  excited.  It  is 
cheaper  to  prevent  than  to  put  down  a riot.  The  police  are  feared 
and  respected.  They  represent  the  imperial  government.  They  do 
not  bear  the  sword  in  vain.  You  see  soldiers  in  all  the  streets. 
They  are  going  to  and  fro  all  the  time.  An  officer  rides  along,  and 
a footman  runs  before  to  clear  the  way  if  need  be.  The  footman 
carries  his  umbrella  when  the  sun  does  not  shine.  In  a mon- 
archial  country  there  is  greater  need  of  police  and  a standing  army 
than  in  a republic.  In  a republic  the  people  are  rulers.  That 
form  of  government  could  not  exist  if  the  people  were  not  instinct- 
ively law-abiding.  The  home  of  the  President  of  the  United  States 
is  very  much  like  the  home  of  any  other  gentleman.  It  needs  no 
deep  and  wide  moats,  no  high  walls,  no  gates  and  sentries. 

The  dress  of  the  people  challenges  attention.  The  ordinary 
dress  of  a man  is  not  unlike  that  of  a woman,  except  that  a woman 
wears  a large  bustle.  This  is  worn  as  an  ornament.  In  summer 
the  people  as  a rule  wear  nothing  on  their  heads.  The  women 
arrange  their  hair  tastefully;  they  wear  neither  hat  nor  bonnet.  I 
have  seen  one  Japanese  woman,  and  only  one,  wearing  a hat.  She 
was  dressed  throughout  as  a foreigner.  The  jinricksha  men  wear  a 
hat  that  looks  like  a wash-basin  turned  upside  down.  It  is  cool  and 
comfortable.  Some  wear  a cloth  tied  about  their  heads.  You  will 
see  tens  of  thousands  with  no  covering  of  any  kind.  Nearly  every 
man  and  woman  carries  an  umbrella.  In  winter  both  men  and 
women  wear  something  to  protect  their  heads  against  the  cold. 
Their  foot-gear  is  peculiar.  Many  wear  nothing.  Others  wear 
straw  sandals.  They  are  said  to  be  very  easy  on  the  feet.  Many 


SOME  CURIOUS  THINGS  IN  JAPAN 


109 


wear  wooden  clogs.  They  add  about  three  inches  to  their  stature. 
They  are  held  on  the  feet  by  a thong  which  passes  between  the  great 
toe  and  the  next.  Stockings  are  made  with  an  apartment  for  the 
great  toe.  When  several  hundred  people  get  off  a train  and  walk 
on  a stone  pavement  the  noise  is  almost  deafening.  The  clogs  are 
a convenience  in  muddy  weather.  Soldiers,  policemen,  trainmen, 
mail-carriers  and  many  others  are  dressed  like  Americans.  In  the 
interior  the  women  that  carry  firewood  and  hay  and  truck  on 
their  backs  are  dressed  like  men.  More  remarkable  than  anything 
else  is  the  scantiness  of  the  dress  of  the  multitudes.  Thousands  of 
men  wear  nothing  but  a loin-cloth.  The  low-necked  dresses  worn 
in  some  circles  at  home  would  not  provoke  any  criticism  or  com- 
ment here. 

The  houses  are  unlike  ours.  There  is  no  cellar;  because  of  the 
frequent  earthquakes,  cellars  are  dispensed  with.  There  is  no 
chimney.  The  fire  is  in  a pit  in  the  center  of  a room.  The  smoke 
goes  out  in  its  own  way.  As  the  house  is  open  more  or  less  on 
every  side,  the  smoke  goes  out  without  any  trouble.  The  houses 
are  small  and  low.  In  Tokyo  there  are  only  a few  houses  three 
stories  high.  Most  of  them  are  one  story.  The  majority  are  of 
wood.  It  is  not  at  all  strange  that  the  average  life  of  a house  is 
seven  years.  Because  fires  are  so  frequent,  many  families  have  a 
room  that  is  fireproof.  In  this  room  the  treasures  are  usually  kept. 
It  is  only  recently  that  the  Japanese  began  to  use  glass.  They  used 
paper  instead.  There  is  almost  no  privacy  about  an  ordinary  home. 
The  passerby  can  see  into  every  room  in  the  house.  The  family 
cooks  and  eats  where  it  can  be  seen  by  all.  The  first  thing  a mer- 
chant does  in  the  morning  is  to  take  down  the  whole  front  of  his 
place.  His  goods  are  all  virtually  on  the  street.  There  is  nothing 
that  is  not  in  view.  In  hotels  the  bath-tub  is  in  a place  to  which 
men  and  women  resort.  The  wealthy  people  live  in  a compound. 
In  the  castles  of  the  nobles,  the  retainers  occupied  the  front  rooms 
and  the  families  the  rooms  in  the  rear.  If  an  attack  was  made  on 
the  castle,  the  retainers  were  expected  to  bear  the  brunt  of  it. 
The  best  rooms  were  in  the  back  part  of  the  building.  But  the 
houses  of  the  common  people  are  open  on  all  sides. 

The  Japanese  do  not  shake  hands;  they  bow  instead.  Friends 
meet  and  bow.  Christians  meet  in  church  and  do  the  same. 
When  the  meeting  is  in  a room  where  the  people  sit  on  the  floor, 
the  bowing  surprises  a visitor.  They  touch  the  floor  several 
times  with  their  heads.  Everyone  that  comes  in  bows  to  those 
present.  This  bowing  takes  time,  and  seems  somewhat  tedious  at 


110 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


first,  but  it  is  not  so  to  them.  They  are  not  in  such  haste  as  we 
are.  They  are  anxious  that  what  is  done  should  be  done  properly. 
They  would  rather  sacrifice  time  than  good  taste.  They  do  not 
demand  that  a sermon  be  compressed  within  thirty  minutes  or  less. 
No  matter  how  long  one  speaks,  if  he  has  a message  for  them,  they 
will  listen  without  manifesting  any  sign  of  weariness.  They  do  not 
look  at  their  watches  and  show  by  their  restlessness  that  they  are 
eager  for  the  end.  A friend  told  me  of  a service  held  in  a temple 
on  the  invitation  of  the  priest  in  charge,  which  lasted  from  nine 
one  morning  till  one  the  next.  Nothing  pleases  them  better  than 
three  or  four  sermons  in  succession.  The  theaters  are  open  from 
ten  in  the  morning  till  seven  in  the  evening.  The  Japanese  are  the 
most  patient  and  polite  people  on  the  globe.  They  take  time  to 
be  courteous.  They  would  rather  live  on  less  than  disregard  the 
proprieties  of  life. 

There  are  other  strange  things  in  this  beautiful  country.  For 
example,  you  take  off  your  shoes  before  entering  a house  or  a 
hotel  or  a temple.  It  would  be  regarded  as  an  insult  not  to  do 
this.  It  would  be  the  same  as  to  walk  on  the  table  or  a bed  with 
shoes  on.  The  floors  are  covered  with  mats  that  would  be  dam- 
aged if  this  was  not  done.  The  shoes  are  made  with  this  end  in 
view.  They  can  be  removed  in  an  instant.  At  home  we  take  off 
our  hats.  Children  are  carried  on  the  back  rather  than  in  the 
arms.  Sometimes  they  are  tied  in  position.  Sometimes  a garment 
is  worn  with  a place  in  it  for  the  child.  A sister  or  mother  can 
play  or  work  with  an  infant  on  her  back.  The  child  falls  asleep. 
Its  head  swings  about.  The  flies  gather  upon  its  face.  It  does  not 
seem  to  mind  these  things.  Men  and  women  seldom  ride  or  walk 
together.  The  carriages  are  made  for  one  person.  Young  men 
and  young  women  do  not  associate  as  in  America.  The  sti’eets  are 
full  of  people,  but  each  one  is  under  his  own  umbrella  and  manag- 
ing his  own  affairs.  Horses  are  led,  and  not  driven.  A man  goes 
before  and  the  horse  follows.  Books  begin  where  ours  end. 
Instead  of  beginning  at  the  left  of  the  page  and  reading  to  the 
right,  Japanese  begin  at  the  right  and  read  from  the  top  to  the 
bottom.  What  we  call  foot-notes  are  placed  at  the  top  of  the 
pages.  Titles  follow  the  name,  while  ours  precede  it.  Thus  we 
say  Mr.  Tennyson;  they  say  Tennyson  Mr.  These  differences  are 
on  the  surface,  and  are  slight.  There  are  many  evidences  that  the 
Japanese  are  bone  of  our  bone  and  flesh  of  our  flesh.  We  differ  in 
language  and  in  methods  of  work  and  in  habits  of  thought  and  in 
social  customs,  but  we  are  members  of  one  family.  We  are  chil- 


SOME  CURIOUS  THINGS  IN  JAPAN 


111 


dren  of  the  same  Father.  We  have  been  redeemed  by  the  same 
sacrifice.  We  are  heirs  of  a common  inheritance.  One  is  not  long 
in  Japan  before  one  begins  to  feel  that  he  is  at  home.  He  soon 
realizes  that  he  is  among  friends  and  kinsmen. 

Japan  is  becoming  more  like  a Western  nation  every  day.  Dr. 
Greene  says  that  Japan  is  in  the  East,  but  really  belongs  to  the 
West.  Changes  are  taking  place  all  the  time.  Many  men  are 
adopting  the  foreign  dress.  The  hat  is  worn  by  thousands  who 
dress  in  the  Japanese  style.  Foreign  shoes  are  worn.  The  native 
dress,  picturesque  and  comfortable  as  it  is,  is  giving  place.  Labor- 
saving  machines  are  coming  slowly  into  use.  Already  we  see  the 
railway  and  the  street-car  taking  the  place  of  the  coolies.  The 
nobles  used  to  be  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  men;  now  they  are 
borne  in  special  trains.  The  sewing  machine  is  seen  in  many 
places.  Modern  tools  are  exposed  for  sale  and  are  seen  in  use. 
Cobble-stones  were  once  widely  used  to  hold  shingles  in  place; 
now  wire  nails  are  used  instead,  to  a certain  extent.  The  people 
are  learning  to  shake  hands.  Husbands  and  wives  go  out  together 
as  they  did  not  formerly.  Some  of  the  brightest  men  in  Japan 
have  been  educated  in  America  or  in  Europe.  Others  have  trav- 
eled extensively.  They  are  determined  that  their  country  shall  in 
no  respect  be  behind  any  other  nation  on  the  globe.  The  changes 
that  have  already  taken  place  are  great;  the  changes  that  are  tak- 
ing place  now  are  even  greater. 


xvn. 

FROM  TOKYO  TO  KOBE. 

The  original  plan  contemplated  a visit  to  the  South  of  Japan, 
after  visiting  the  North,  and  after  seeing  the  work  in  Tokyo.  The 
South  is  by  far  the  most  populous  part  of  theEmpire.  It  is  des- 
tined to  become  more  and  more  so.  There  is  some  thought  of 
opening  a work  in  the  South.  Accordingly,  C.  E.  Garst  came 
with  me  as  far  as  Kobe,  that  he  might  survey  the  field  and  ascer- 
tain its  needs.  Dr.  Butchart,  of  China,  had  been  in  Japan  for  a 
few  weeks,  hoping  to  be  able  to  expel  the  malaria  from  his  system. 
He  was  on  his  way  home,  and  joined  us.  The  morning  we  left 
Tokyo  the  Christians  began  to  call  at  an  early  hour.  They  accom- 
panied us  to  the  station.  Some  walked  five  miles  to  see  us  off  and 
to  say  farewell.  The  Japanese  welcome  the  coming  and  speed  the 
departing  guest.  The  missionaries  were  out  in  force.  I took  my 
leave  of  them,  feeling  that  they  had  a difficult  task  in  hand,  and 
feeling  that  they  are  doing  their  best  to  perform  it.  When  I left 
I had  a greater  admiration  for  them,  if  possible,  and  a higher 
opinion  of  their  practical  wisdom  and  persistency  and  faith  and 
patience  than  I had  when  I arrived.  God  bless  this  faithful  band. 

Our  first  stop  was  at  Kamakura.  This  place  was  once  the  capi- 
tal of  Japan.  Once  it  had  a population  of  a million  souls;  now  it 
is  a small  village  of  fishermen.  On  the  shore  the  ambassadors  who 
came  from  Kublai  Khan  to  demand  the  submission  of  Japan  were 
beheaded.  Here  is  a colossal  image  of  Buddha.  Once  it  was 
inclosed  by  a temple;  now  there  is  a temple  inside.  This  image  is 
nearly  fifty  feet  high  and  ninety-seven  feet  in  circumference.  The 
head  measures  seventeen  feet  from  ear  to  ear.  Bayard  Taylor 
spoke  of  it  as  the  most  complete  work  of  the  Japanese  genius,  in 
regard  both  to  art  and  the  religious  sentiment.  The  body  of  the 
image  is  of  bronze,  the  eyes  are  of  pure  gold.  We  visited 
the  temple  of  the  Goddess  of  Mercy  and  the  temple  of  the 
God  of  War.  The  image  of  the  goddess  is  thirty  feet  high, 
and  is  seen  by  the  light  of  candles.  Recently  the  priests  of 
Kamakura  announced  the  death  of  Christianity,  and  fixed  the  time 

for  the  burial.  Such  talk  has  been  heard  before.  A Roman  Em- 

112 


MKS.  GUY’S  CHARITY  SCHOOL,  TOKYO,  JAPAN, 


FROM  TOKYO  TO  KOBE 


113 


peror  wrote  on  the  coins  of  the  Empire,  “ The  Christian  religion 
has  been  destroyed.”  Somehow  Christianity  has  a charmed  life 
and  disappoints  the  predictions  and  the  boasts  of  those  who  would 
destroy,  and  those  who  think  they  have  destroyed  it.  Mr.  Garst 
told  a funny  incident.  A priest  began  his  address  in  the  usual  style, 
“ I am  a fool,  and  my  speech  is  folly  and  not  worthy  of  attention.” 
A Christian  in  the  audience  cried  out,  “Hear!  Hear!”  The  priest 
got  hot  with  anger,  and  called  upon  his  assistants  to  put  him  out. 

Having  spent  two  hours  in  Kamakura,  we  took  the  train  for 
Yokohama.  We  called  first  at  the  Bible  House.  The  British  and 
Foreign  Bible  Society,  the  Scotch  and  American  Societies  cooper- 
ate. These  societies  stand  back  of  every  evangelistic  effort  in 
Japan.  They  employ  seventy  colporteurs.  The  agent  told  us  that 
the  attitude  of  the  government  towards  the  sale  of  the  Scriptures 
was  neutral.  Other  books  are  sold  under  license;  the  Bible  is  not- 
To  license  it  would  be  an  implied  indorsement.  The  government 
does  not  prohibit,  and  it  does  not  encourage  the  sale.  In  the  war 
with  China,  the  highest  officials  gave  the  society  permission  to  dis- 
tribute Bibles  among  the  soldiers.  The  agent  feels  that  this  per- 
mission is  the  harbinger  of  a new  era.  The  Emperor  has  consented 
to  receive  a Bible.  A copy  is  being  prepared.  It  will  be  ready  in 
a few  months  for  presentation.  One  of  the  most  hopeful  things 
alluded  to  by  the  agent  was  the  Bible  Readers’  Union.  There  are 
eleven  thousand  people  in  Japan  reading  the  same  lesson  each  day. 
About  half  of  these  are  not  believers;  a number  are  priests. 
Yokohama  is  well  supplied  with  missionaries  and  mission  schools. 
That  night  we  had  an  earthquake  that  shook  the  house  and  aroused 
the  people.  The  girls  squealed,  but  no  harm  was  done.  This  is 
the  third  shock  I felt  in  Japan. 

The  next  morning  we  took  the  train  and  resumed  our  journey. 
Most  of  the  day  we  were  riding  along  the  base  of  the  peerless 
Fujiyama,  the  sacred  mountain  of  Japan.  We  saw  green  fields, 
noble  hills,  beautiful  rivers  and  the  sea.  There  is  no  prettier  coun- 
try on  the  globe.  We  saw  scores  of  quaint  villages  and  the  busy 
villagers.  We  stopped  for  the  night  at  Nagoya.  At  this  place 
there  is  one  of  the  most  famous  castles  of  Japan.  A friend  in  the 
foreign  office  sent  us  a ticket  of  admission.  In  the  feudal  times 
every  lord  had  a castle.  Most  of  these  have  been  destroyed ; sev- 
eral have  been  preserved.  This  one  escaped  the  vandals.  The 
deep  and  wide  moats,  the  high  walls  flanked  with  towers,  give  one 
an  idea  of  what  war  in  the  middle  ages  was.  Before  cannons  came 

into  use,  one  of  these  castles  would  hold  an  army  in  check  for 
8 


114 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


years.  The  garrison  might  starve;  it  could  not  be  conquered.  In 
this  city  we  saw  some  of  the  porcelain  and  cloisonne  work  for 
which  the  Japanese  artists  are  so  justly  famous.  In  the  feudal 
times,  the  wealth  was  in  the  hands  of  a few.  Human  life  was 
cheap.  There  were  a few  lines  only  in  which  genius  could  exert 
itself.  The  nobles  wanted  silk  fabrics  and  vases  for  flowers,  and 
scrolls  and  pictures  to  adorn  their  palaces.  The  Raphaels  and 
Angelos  and  Bacons  and  Shakespeares  were  put  to  work  to  supply 
this  demand.  A man  might  spend  his  life  on  one  picture  or  on 
one  vase.  In  this  way  the  arts  that  adorn  life  were  brought  into  a 
very  high  degree  of  perfection.  The  Japanese  are  naturally  artis- 
tic; otherwise  they  could  not  have  produced  so  many  beautiful 
things.  We  called  at  an  orphanage,  and  found  to  our  surprise 
that  it  was  a Buddhist  institution.  The  priests  have  been  driven  to 
engage  in  benevolent  work  in  self-defense.  They  say,  “ Unless 
we  stir  ourselves,  we  cannot  hope  to  hold  our  ground  against  such 
energetic,  untiring  propagandism.”  In  one  place  they  organized  a 
kindergarten  in  opposition  to  one  of  our  schools.  In  another,  they 
organized  their  young  people  into  an  Endeavor  Society.  Here  they 
were  driven  to  establish  an  orphanage. 

The  next  evening  we  were  in  Kyoto.  This  city  was  the  capi- 
tal of  Japan  for  more  than  a thousand  years.  In  1868  the  Em- 
peror and  his  court  removed  to  Tokyo.  Since  then,  Kyoto  has 
lost  in  political  importance,  but  it  is  still  incomparably  the  richest 
city  in  the  Empire  in  historical  associations.  Kyoto  was  and  is  the 
religious  center  of  Japan.  There  are  3,500  Buddhist  temples,  and 
8,000  priests,  and  2,500  Shinto  shrines  and  priests.  Some  of  these 
temples  cost  enough  to  endow  a dozen  colleges.  Their  grounds  and 
buildings  and  altars  are  magnificent.  In  one  there  is  an  image  of 
Buddha  fifty-eight  feet  high.  The  face  is  thirty  feet  long.  There 
is  a bell  that  weighs  sixty-three  tons.  It  is  fourteen  feet  high,  nine 
feet  in  diameter,  and  nine  inches  thick.  The  finest  temple  in 
Kyoto  is  a new  one.  The  old  one  was  destroyed  by  fire.  Several 
millions  were  required  to  rebuild.  An  appeal  was  issued  to  the 
nation.  The  responses  were  prompt  and  heavy.  Women  gave 
their  hair  to  haul  the  timber.  The  main  building  is  two  hundred 
and  ten  feet  by  one  hundred  and  seventy.  The  ridge  of  the  roof  is 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  the  ground.  This  temple  is  a work 
of  real  genius.  In  another  temple  there  are  33,333  images  of  the 
Goddess  of  Mercy.  Kyoto  is  a city  of  temples.  You  see  them  in 
all  directions.  One  street  has  almost  no  other  buildings  from  end 
to  end.  The  temple  grounds  afford  the  children  a fine  place  for 


FROM  TOKYO  TO  KOBE 


115 


play.  Families  hold  picnics  under  the  shade  of  the  trees.  Birds 
build  their  nests  under  the  eaves  and  in  the  altai's.  The  temples,  as 
■such,  are  dreary  places.  The  priests  are  the  least  interesting  class 
of  people  I have  seen  in  Japan.  They  smoke  their  pipes,  drink  tea 
and  sake,  recite  their  prayers,  and  do  little  else.  Near  one  of  the 
temples  is  the  “Ear  Monument.”  An  army  was  sent  to  conquer 
Korea.  Instead  of  sending  home  the  heads  of  the  vanquished,  they 
cut  off  10,000  pairs  of  ears  and  pickled  them  in  salt  and  sake  and 
sent  them  home.  They  were  buried  and  a mound  built  over  them 
and  a monument  placed  on  the  mound. 

We  were  fortunate  enough  to  get  permission  to  see  the  palace 
and  the  castle.  The  Mikado  is  said  to  be  the  Son  or  King  of 
Heaven.  The  palace  is  built  after  the  same  general  pattern  as  the 
temples.  We  saw  the  place  where  he  worshiped  his  ancestors  and 
the  place  where  he  was  worshiped.  We  saw  the  rooms  where  he 
lived  and  the  rooms  in  which  he  studied  and  transacted  business. 
He  was  regarded  as  a god  and  not  as  a man.  He  never  appeared  in 
public.  His  subjects,  except  his  wives  and  concubines  and  highest 
ministers,  never  saw  his  face.  He  sat  on  a mat  on  a throne  behind 
a curtain.  Messages  were  repeated  to  the  women,  and  they 
repeated  them  to  him.  His  feet  were  never  allowed  to  touch  the 
earth.  When  he  went  abroad  in  the  city,  he  rode  in  a car  closely 
cui’tained  and  drawn  by  bullocks.  The  people  were  taught  that 
they  would  be  smitten  with  blindness  if  they  saw  him.  When  he 
went  out,  the  streets  were  deserted.  The  people  went  into  their 
houses  and  closed  the  doors  and  windows.  The  greatest  nobles 
threw  themselves  on  the  ground  and  allowed  the  royal  coi’tege  to 
pass  by.  Now  the  Emperor  is  a man.  He  is  seen  by  the  people. 
When  he  goes  abroad  the  streets  are  thronged.  Banners  are 
everywhere.  The  cheers  of  the  multitude  are  gratefully  acknowl- 
edged. The  castle  is  a far  more  splendid  building  than  the  palace. 
Here  the  Shogun  held  his  court.  Here  the  daimyos  came  to  confer 
with  their  lord.  I saw  nothing  in  Nikko  or  in  Tokyo  so  fine  as  this. 
It  gives  one  some  idea  of  the  power  and  wealth  and  magnificence  of 
the  Shoguns,  The  moats  have  been  filled;  parts  of  the  walls  have 
been  removed;  but  enough  is  left  to  show  what  this  castle  was 
before  the  Restoration. 

More  to  us  than  temples,  or  palace,  or  castle,  is  the  Doshisha 
University.  This  institution  is  across  from  the  palace.  Prof. 
Albrecht  showed  us  the  buildings  and  some  of  the  work.  The 
Doshisha  was  founded  by  Neesima.  The  story  of  his  life  is  stranger 
than  fiction.  A Japanese  lad  got  hold  of  an  Atlas  of  the  United 


116 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


States.  From  this  he  got  some  knowledge  of  America.  At  once 
he  wished  to  go  to  that  country.  He  picked  up  a tract  which  gave 
a synopsis  of  the  Bible.  In  this  he  read  of  God  as  a Creator.  That 
was  a new  thought.  He  reasoned,  “ If  God  created  me,  he  owns 
me.”  He  so  thirsted  for  knowledge  that  he  often  read  till  cock- 
crow. He  managed  to  get  a little  English.  He  ran  away  from  his 
master,  got  to  Shanghai,  and  from  Shanghai  to  Boston.  Here 
Alpheus  Hardy,  a Boston  merchant,  took  him  as  his  own  son.  He 
sent  him  to  Phillips  Academy,  then  to  Amherst,  and  then  to  And- 
over. While  in  the  academy,  he  confessed  his  faith  in  Christ. 
While  he  was  in  Andover,  the  second  Japanese  embassy  visited 
America.  He  was  asked  to  serve  the  embassy  as  an  interpreter. 
He  did  so.  He  visited  all  the  capitals  of  Europe  as  well  as  the 
principal  cities  of  America.  He  made  a special  study  of  the  systems 
of  education.  After  he  left  the  Seminary,  he  wanted  the  American 
Board  to  establish  a Christian  school  in  Japan.  He  did  not  get 
much  encouragement.  At  the  annual  meeting  held  in  Rutland,  he 
was  allowed  to  make  a plea  for  funds  for  this  school.  He  spoke 
with  a broken  voice  and  tears.  At  that  meeting  $5,000  was 
pledged.  That  was  the  nucleus  of  the  Doshisha.  He  was  urged  to 
open  the  school  in  Kyoto.  He  thought  that  center  and  citadel  of 
Buddhism  was  the  last  place  in  Japan  for  a Christian  school.  He 
was  told  that  he  might  as  well  try  to  fly  to  the  moon  as  to  put  up 
buildings;  it  would  not  be  allowed.  After  much  thought  and 
prayer,  the  school  was  opened  in  a few  dingy  rooms  of  an  old  man- 
sion. There  were  two  teachers  and  eight  students.  There  was  no 
course  of  study.  The  appliances  were  of  the  rudest  character. 
When  he  sought  permission  to  teach  Christianity,  he  was  told  to 
teach  it  under  the  head  of  moral  science.  The  priests  and  magis- 
trates were  up  in  arms.  They  were  determined  to  crush  the  school. 
Neesima’s  connection  with  the  Japanese  embassy  years  before  gave 
him  friends  at  court.  These  friends  never  deserted  him  or  turned 
a deaf  ear  to  his  appeals.  He  did  what  no  foreigner  could  have 
done.  He  bought  land  and  began  to  put  up  buildings.  There  are 
now  five  buildings  on  the  grounds  and  eleven  dormitories  not  far 
away.  J.  N.  Harris,  of  Connecticut,  gave  $100,000  to  found  a 
School  of  Science.  Mrs.  B.  W.  Clarke,  of  Brooklyn,  gave  $10,000 
in  memory  of  her  son,  to  build  a Theological  Hall.  A cabinet  min- 
ister invited  some  rich  friends  to  dinner.  He  spoke  to  them  about 
this  school  and  its  needs.  These  men  raised  $30,000  in  silver  for  a 
school  of  Law  and  Economics.  The  whole  number  of  students 
enrolled  from  the  first  is  3,358;  the  whole  number  of  graduates,  296. 


FROM  TOKYO  TO  KOBE 


117 


Of  the  graduates  106  are  preaching.  Of  the  graduates  seventy  per 
cent,  are  Christians.  No  other  school  in  Japan  has  produced  so 
many  Christian  workers  along  so  many  lines.  The  Doshisha  is 
spoken  of  as  the  center  of  religious  life  and  thought  in  the  Empire. 
In  connection  with  it  are  the  Girls’  School,  a Hospital  and  a Train- 
ing School  for  nurses.  In  the  Doshisha  there  are  thirty-five  Japa- 
nese and  eight  foreign  teachers.  We  visited  Dr.  Albrecht  and  Dr. 
M.  L.  Gordon  in  their  homes  and  broke  bread  with  them.  Dr. 
Gordon  told  us  an  amusing  incident.  Talking  once  with  a noble- 
man who  had  visited  Japan,  he  asked  him  how  he  was  impressed 
with  the  country.  He  replied  that  he  thought  the  “billiard  tables 
of  Yokohama  were  better  than  those  in  Tokyo.”  That  was  all. 
We  called  to  see  President  Kozaki.  He  is  a Japanese  and  lives  in 
Japanese  style.  We  found  him  a genial  gentleman,  ready  to  give 
ns  any  information  needed.  He  told  us  that  the  Japanese  are  a 
religious  people.  There  can  be  no  doubt  of  this.  There  are  72,000 
Buddhist  temples  and  56,500  Shinto  shrines  in  the  country.  Dr. 
Gordon  took  us  to  Neesima’s  grave  on  a hill  overlooking  the  city. 
We  felt  that  we  were  on  holy  ground.  An  unhewn  block  of  stone 
marks  his  grave.  He  wished  no  other  monument.  The  Doshisha 
will  perpetuate  his  name  better  than  any  monument  of  bronze  or 
marble.  His  purpose  was  not  merely  to  give  instruction  in  English 
and  other  branches  of  learning,  but  to  impart  higher  moral  and 
spiritual  principles,  and  to  train  up,  not  only  men  of  science  and 
learning,  but  men  of  conscientiousness  and  sincerity.  He  believed 
that  a nation  needs  manners,  but  it  needs  morals  more.  He 
believed  that  pure  morality  must  be  based  on  Christianity.  Near  by 
is  the  grave  of  Lieut.  George  C.  Foulk.  He  was  born  in  Pennsyl- 
vania and  educated  at  Annapolis.  He  resigned  from  the  United 
States  Navy,  where  he  had  won  a reputation  for  brilliant  scholar- 
ship, and  returning  to  Japan  from  Korea,  where  he  rendered  his 
country  important  service,  he  became  a most  valued  member  of  the 
Doshisha  faculty  and  an  enthusiastic  evangelistic  worker.  The 
students  placed  a slab  over  his  grave  with  this  inscription,  “The 
zeal  of  thine  house  hath  eaten  me  up.”  This  sentence  fitly  por- 
trayed his  life.  As  we  left  the  cemetery  full  of  thoughts  concern- 
ing Neesima  and  his  work,  I remembered  one  of  his  sentences, 
“Advance  on  your  knees.” 

Leaving  Kyoto  we  came  to  Osaka.  This  city  is  the  Chicago  of 
Japan.  It  is  the  commercial  center  of  the  nation.  We  climbed  to 
the  top  of  a pagoda  and  saw  the  whole  city  and  the  country  adja- 
cent. After  visiting  a few  temples  we  called  at  the  penitentiary. 


118 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


There  are  3,000  convicts  in  this  prison.  Some  are  lads;  some  are 
in  the  prime  of  life;  some  are  old  and  gray.  It  was  a sad  sight. 
We  saw  them  fed.  For  supper  they  had  a ball  of  cold  rice  and 
wheat,  and  a cup  of  hot  water.  We  ran  out  from  Osaka  to  Nara. 
This  place  was  the  capital  of  Japan  for  eight  years.  In  one  temple 
there  is  an  image  of  Buddha  larger  than  the  one  in  Kamakura.  In  a 
Shinto  temple  we  saw  two  dancing  girls.  The  priest  sang  some- 
thing like  a dirge,  and  the  girls  made  some  movements  and  called 
them  a dance.  In  a village  on  the  way  is  the  oldest  existing  Bud- 
dhist temple  in  Japan.  It  was  built  in  the  sixth  century.  There  are 
pictures  in  it  said  to  be  thirteen  hundred  years  old.  One  curious 
thing  was  shown  us,  namely,  the  left  eye  of  the  Buddha.  Our  next 
stop  was  made  at  Kobe.  This  is  an  open  port,  and  is  much  like 
Yokohama.  We  visited  the  Girls’  School  of  the  American  Board. 
The  buildings  are  well  adapted  to  the  needs  of  the  work.  In  Kobe 
we  met,  among  others,  a member  of  the  celebrated  Gulick  family. 
Six  brothers  and  one  sister  gave  their  lives  to  the  work  of  missions. 
Their  parents  were  missionaries  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  Two 
members  of  the  third  generation  are  already  in  the  field. 


XVIII. 


FROM  KOBE  TO  SHANGHAI. 

At  Kobe  we  took  passage  on  the  Empress  of  China  for 
Shanghai.  The  Empress  is  a line  ship.  Her  officers  are  courteous 
to  all.  This  line  is  becoming  deservedly  popular.  It  follows  the 
short  route  from  America  to  Japan  and  China.  I have  never  been 
on  another  ship  where  all  the  passengers  seemed  so  comfortable 
and  happy.  There  were  between  forty  and  fifty  missionaries  on 
board.  Some  one  said  that  this  was  the  largest  number  of  work- 
ers that  ever  reached  China  on  one  ship.  Some  had  been  home  on 
furlough  and  were  returning.  They  were  eager  to  reach  the  field 
and  enter  upon  the  work.  Among  these  were  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saw, 
of  Nankin.  It  was  a great  joy  to  meet  them.  About  half  the  num- 
ber are  coming  out  for  the  first  time.  A glance  shows  that  they 
are  above  the  average  in  ability  and  scholarship.  An  acquaintance 
deepens  the  impression.  The  societies  select  men  and  women  with 
great  care. 

Among  the  veterans,  Dr.  William  Ashmore  is  easily  the  Nestor. 
He  has  been  on  the  field  forty-five  years.  Long  before  Japan 
admitted  any  Christian  workers,  he  was  in  the  Flowery  Kingdom. 
He  has  seen  the  number  of  Christians  in  China  increase  from  three 
hundred  and  fifty  to  fifty  thousand.  His  home  is  in  Swatow. 
This  city  is  the  center  of  operations  reaching  many  miles  into  the 
interior.  Dr.  Ashmore  is  a fine  specimen  of  physical  manhood. 
His  head  and  face  and  voice  reminded  me  of  the  gifted  and 
lamented  Isaac  Errett.  He  is  a large  man  in  every  way.  In  a busy 
career  he  has  kept  abreast  of  the  best  scholarship  of  the  age.  On 
one  point  he  differs  from  many  of  his  brethren.  He  believes  that 
the  work  of  missionaries  is  that  of  preaching  the  Gospel.  He 
thinks  that  the  medical  work  is  a good  thing  in  opening  a district, 
but  that,  like  the  miraculous  gift  of  healing  in  the  early  church, 
its  value  is  temporary.  He  would  use  schools  to  train  helpers  and 
evangelists  only.  In  his  opinion,  medical  work  and  educational 
work  are  good  things,  but  these  are  not  the  works  a missionary 
should  engage  in.  Dr.  Ashmore  said  he  knew  he  was  regarded  as 
heterodox  on  these  points,  but  he  is  satisfied  that  he  is  right.  Dr. 

119 


120 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


McGregor  was  born  in  Aberdeen,  Scotland.  He  has  been  in  Amoy, 
China,  thirty-one  years.  He  is  yet  young  and  strong.  He  has  seen 
great  things;  he  expects  to  see  still  greater.  When  he  reached  the 
field  in  1864,  there  were  one  hundred  believers  in  that  district. 
There  are  three  thousand  now.  There  are  nineteen  self-supporting 
churches.  The  Gospel  is  preached  at  seventy  stations.  He  told 
me  of  a young  student  who  [had  heard  the  Gospel  from  a barber. 
When  his  father  learned  that  he  attended  church  he  was  greatly 
concerned.  He  followed  him  and  dragged  him  out  and  beat  him. 
He  di’ove  him  out  of  his  house.  He  felt  that  his  son’s  prospects 
would  be  ruined  if  he  became  a Christian.  The  son  confessed  his 
faith  in  Christ,  was  educated  for  the  ministry,  and  is  now  the  pas- 
tor of  a self-supporting  church.  Dr.  Barclay  has  been  in  For- 
mosa twenty-one  jears.  He  has  lived  in  the  southern  part.  His 
report  is  encouraging.  He  believes  that  the  war  will  help  Formosa. 
The  country  will  be  advertised,  and  people  and  workers  will  flock 
thither.  He  showed  us  a curious  document.  It  is  a passport  issued 
by  the  Republic  of  Formosa.  It  runs  thus:  “This  is  to  certify 

that  the  Formosa  Republic  grants  protection  to  Thomas  Barclay,  of 
Great  England,  and  calls  upon  all  officials,  gentry,  soldiers  and  peo- 
ple to  carry  it  out.  Those  who  refuse  will  be  prosecuted.”  A 
republic  in  the  Orient ! This  shows  how  far  American  ideas  have 
been  spread.  In  Brazil,  in  Central  America,  in  France,  in  Hawaii, 
and  in  distant  Formosa,  the  influence  of  Otis  and  Adams  and 
Hancock  and  Washington  and  Jefferson  is  felt.  The  day  for  abso- 
lutism is  about  over.  Dr.  Swan  is  from  the  great  hospital  in 
Canton.  He  is  the  associate  of  the  distinguished  Dr.  Kerr.  These 
two  physicians  and  their  assistants  treat  fifteen  hundred  in-patients 
and  twenty-five  thousand  out-patients  a jear.  They  preach  to  all 
who  seek  relief.  They  follow  up  their  patients  and  seek  to  win 
them  to  Christ.  As  an  evangelistic  agency  this  hospital  is  said  to 
be  inval.uable.  Dr.  Main,  of  Hangchow,  has  one  of  the  largest 
hospitals  in  China.  He  does  not  agree  with  Dr.  Ashmore  as  to 
the  place  of  medical  work  in  a mission.  He  regards  the  medical 
depai’tment  as  most  fruitful  in  leading  souls  into  the  kingdom.  He 
can  lay  his  hands  on  scores  of  converts  that  have  been  won  through 
the  hospital.  Among  the  young  men  was  D.  Willard  Lyon.  He 
spent  a year  among  the  colleges  of  America  in  the  interest  of  the 
Volunteer  Movement.  His  father  is  a missionary  in  China.  He 
was  born  on  a boat  between  Shanghai  and  Ningpo.  Mr.  Lyon  and 
wife  are  on  their  way  to  Peking,  where  they  expect  to  live  and 
labor  for  the  furtherance  of  the  Gospel. 


bl  HUNG  CHANG,  A CHINESE  MANDARIN. 


FROM  KOBE  TO  SHANGHAI 


121 


Mr.  Loomis,  of  the  Bible  Societies  in  Yokohama,  is  on  board, 
and  gave  an  account  of  the  work  among  the  soldiers.  If  any  one 
had  told  him  before  the  war  began  that  the  highest  officials  in 
Japan  would  consent  to  the  distribution  of  the  Scriptures,  as  they 
have  done,  he  would  have  said,  “If  the  Lord  were  to  open  the 
windows  of  heaven,  might  this  thing  be?”  He  was  accorded  the 
privilege  of  giving  copies  of  the  New  Testament  or  of  the  Gospel 
to  the  soldiers  in  the  army,  to  the  sailors  of  the  navy,  and  to  the 
wounded  in  the  hospitals  and  to  the  prisoners  of  war.  The  prince 
in  command  of  the  Imperial  Guard  was  very  glad  to  allow  him  to 
give  a Gospel  to  each  of  his  men.  That  prince  is  now  Commander- 
in-Chief  of  the  army.  He  was  permitted  to  visit  the  Naval  Acad- 
emy and  to  give  a portion  of  the  Word  of  God  to  every  cadet. 
When  the  Empress  visited  the  hospital,  the  head  surgeon  called  her 
attention  to  the  work  done  by  the  missionaries,  and  spoke  of  it  as 
one  of  the  most  valuable  things  done  for  the  country.  In  Tokyo, 
Mr.  Loomis  held  a service  for  the  Chinese  prisoners.  There  were 
one  hundred  and  sixty  present.  They  were  very  eager  to  hear.  A 
Japanese  officer  reported  that  a Buddhist  priest  came  to  the  prison. 
The  prisoners  told  him  that  they  were  Christians,  and  did  not  want 
him.  Thei’e  were  two  thousand  five  hundred  New  Testaments,  and 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  Gospels  distributed.  Prior  to  1873 
it  was  a capital  crime  to  sell  an  English  Bible.  The  change  since 
then  has  been  marvelous.  It  is  the  Lord’s  doing.  The  speaker 
was  deeply  moved.  He  is  a man  of  prayer — a man  of  God.  He 
was  surprised  at  the  ease  with  which  doors  were  opened.  God 
gave  him  favor  in  the  sight  of  the  officials.  He  said  he  felt  as 
Moses  did  when  the  Lord  hid  him  in  the  cleft  of  the  rock  while  his 
glory  passed  by.  Mr.  Loomis  is  on  his  way  to  Korea  in  the  inter- 
est of  this  work. 

Among  the  passengers  is  the  celebrated  traveler  and  author, 
Mrs.  Isabella  Bird  Bishop.  She  is  not  a missionary,  but  is  deeply 
interested  in  missionaries.  She  was  born  in  England.  Her  hus- 
band was  a Professor  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh.  She  has 
made  that  city  her  home  for  thirty  years.  Her  health  has  never 
been  good.  Much  of  her  writing  has  been  done  in  bed.  She  has 
traveled  all  over  the  world.  Her  books  were  written  in  the  form 
of  letters  to  a sister.  In  Japan  she  lived  once  for  six  months  on 
rice  and  eggs.  She  makes  it  a rule  to  carry  no  food  and  no  books 
She  carries  a bed  and  a chair  and  a blanket  or  two  and  some  cloth- 
ing and  a camera,  and  almost  nothing  else.  She  gets  a servant  who 
can  serve  her  as  an  interpreter;  she  has  no  other  escort.  Not  long 


122 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


ago  she  was  in  the  interior  of  China.  She  was  taking  a picture 
when  some  men  saw  her.  They  began  to  cry  out,  “Here  is  a for- 
eign devil;  kill  her,  kill  her!”  She  finished  her  work,  took  her 
camera  and  returned  to  the  boat.  Her  life  was  in  peril,  but  she  did 
not  think  so  at  the  time.  She  is  now  on  her  way  to  Korea,  to 
finish  a journey  which  was  interrupted  by  the  war.  Mrs.  Bishop  is  a 
friend  of  missionaries.  She  knows  them  and  their  work.  Once 
she  avoided  them.  At  that  time  she  had  no  confidence  in  them. 
She  believed  the  evil  reports  that  are  heard  in  certain  circles.  In 
the  providence  of  God  her  eyes  were  opened.  She  is  impressed 
with  the  great  need  of  missionaries.  The  world  is  dark  and  needs 
the  Gospel.  She  has  borne  eloquent  testimony  on  this  point. 
She  has  described  the  sufferings  of  women  and  children  in  non- 
Christian  lands.  Her  interest  centers  in  medical  missions.  She  is 
now  making  a journey  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  assist  this  work. 

No  one  can  be  with  such  a company  without  feeling  that  they 
are  diligent  students  of  the  Scriptures.  At  the  daily  meetings  for 
conference  every  one  had  his  Bible.  The  book  showed  that  it  was 
read  and  studied.  Not  only  so,  but  they  are  men  of  prayer.  They 
live  near  God,  and  they  delight  to  talk  with  him.  Moreover,  they 
are  full  of  joy.  Their  faces  shine.  It  would  not  be  easy  to  find 
another  group  of  the  same  number  with  so  many  happy  counte- 
nances in  it.  They  have  heard  the  call  of  God  and  obeyed  it,  and  he 
has  blessed  them  with  his  wondrous  grace.  Once  more,  they  have 
perfect  confidence  in  the  triumph  of  the  Gospel.  The  reports  of 
riots  and  massacres  do  not  disturb  their  serene  confidence.  They 
are  without  a doubt  as  to  the  final  issue.  The  Mandarins  may 
oppose;  worldly-minded  people  may  sneer;  the  Lord  God  omnip- 
otent reigns,  and  the  whole  earth  shall  be  filled  with  his  glory. 
There  are  medical  men  on  board  who  have  left  a lucrative  practice 
to  serve  the  Lord  in  China.  There  is  no  one  in  the  group  who 
could  not  get  a larger  stipend  at  home  than  he  will  get  on  the 
field.  At  the  present  time  a riot  may  occur  anywhere.  No  mis- 
sionary is  safe.  Those  who  are  seeking  pleasant  berths  are  not 
coming  to  China.  The  workers  are  ready  to  glorify  Christ  by  living 
or  by  dying  for  him. 

Our  course  for  part  of  the  way  was  through  the  Inland  Sea. 
This  is  the  short  route  from  Kobe  to  Nagasaki.  There  is  no  more 
beautiful  scenery  in  the  world  than  in  and  about  this  sea.  The 
waters  are  studded  with  fishing  boats  and  trading  junks.  The 
shores  are  lined  with  villages.  These  have  a background  of  moun- 
tains. The  Inland  Sea  resembles  the  St.  Lawrence  with  its 


FROM  KOBE  TO  SHANGHAI 


123 


Thousand  Islands.  One  place  of  interest  passed  was  Shimonoseki. 
This  is  the  place  where  Li  Hung  Chang  was  shot,  and  where  the 
treaty  of  peace  was  drawn  up  and  signed.  We  entered  Nagasaki 
Bay  after  daybreak.  The  Bay  is  narrow  and  about  three  miles  long. 
The  harbor  is  thoroughly  sheltered,  and  affords  anchorage  for 
ships  of  all  classes.  The  entrance  is  not  more  than  one-fourth  of  a 
mile  wide.  Here  are  war  ships  representing  all  nations.  Officers 
in  gold  lace  are  seen  in  every  direction.  Nagasaki  is  historic 
ground.  Here  it  was  that  the  Portuguese  merchants  and  missiona- 
ries landed.  Here  it  was  that  the  Japanese  became  acquainted 
with  Eui’opeans,  and  Christianity,  and  firearms,  and  other  things 
unknown  to  Chinese  civilization.  Here  Christianity  was  extir- 
pated. Here  the  Dutch  had  their  factory,  and  here  all  business 
with  the  outside  world  was  carried  on  for  many  years.  In  the  Bay 
there  is  a rock  called  Pappenburg.  From  this  rock  Christians  were 
thrown,  it  is  said,  because  they  would  not  deny  their  Lord.  As  we 
walked  the  streets  of  the  city  we  thought  of  the  time  when  the  citi- 
zens were  required  to  trample  on  the  cross  to  convince  the  inquis- 
itor that  they  were  not  Christians.  As  we  saw  the  homes  of  men 
representing  Christian  nations  and  the  mission  schools  and  the 
churches,  we  thought  of  the  folly  of  fighting  against  the  Most  High. 
At  Nagasaki  we  coaled.  This  was  an  interesting  performance. 
The  ship  was  anchored  out  in  the  Bay.  Small  boats  loaded  with 
coal  came  out.  Ladders  were  placed  against  the  side  of  the 
Empress.  Men  and  women  formed  a line  and  passed  up  the  coal  in 
baskets.  There  were  several  sets  working  at  the  same  time.  In  a 
few  hours  the  work  was  done.  It  seemed  strange  to  see  women  in 
such  a place,  but  they  want  to  earn  a living.  We  left  Nagasaki  in 
the  afternoon,  passed  the  frowning  batteries  that  guard  the  harbor, 
and  soon  were  out  on  the  Sea  of  China.  We  stood  on  deck  as  long 
as  there  was  any  land  in  sight.  Japan  is  a beautiful  country.  The 
Japanese  are  a great  people.  Their  victories  in  war  are  great; 
their  victories  of  peace  are  still  greater.  God  has  a high  mission 
for  this  nation.  It  seems  to  me  that  Japan  is  to  be  the  leader  of  all 
the  peoples  of  the  East.  In  order  to  fulfill  this  mission  she  must 
have  the  Gospel.  The  heart  and  institutions  of  the  nation  must  be 
Christianized.  What  is  done  for  her  evangelization  must  be  done 
quickly.  This  is  the  nick  of  time.  Thirty  hours  from  Nagasaki  we 
cast  anchor  in  the  mouth  of  the  mighty  Yangtsze.  The  next  morn- 
ing we  took  a tug  and  went  up  the  Whangpoo  River  to  Shanghai. 
As  the  tug  came  near  the  dock  I caught  sight  of  the  pleasant  face 
of  James  Ware,  who  came  down  to  welcome  me  to  China,  and  to 
take  me  to  his  own  home. 


XIX. 


A GLIMPSE  OF  SHANGHAI. 

Shanghai  is  the  chief  port  of  China,  and  has  a population  of 
400,000.  The  foreign  port  resembles  a European  city.  It  has  all 
the  modern  improvements,  except  street-cars.  The  Chinese  city 
proper  is  walled,  and  is  one  of  the  nastiest  places  in  the  Empire. 
Contact  with  foreigners  has  led  to  no  improvement.  This  is  another 
illustration  of  the  truth  that  it  is  only  as  people  are  renewed  in  heart 
and  spirit  that  they  are  ready  to  adopt  the  institutions  which  are 
the  fruit  of  the  Gospel.  The  old  city  was  offered  good  water. 
They  said  the  water  offered  had  neither  taste  nor  smell;  the  water 
in  the  moat  has  both.  The  people  wash  their  clothes  and  food  and 
their  persons  in  it,  and  then  use  it  for  cooking  and  drinking.  In 
another  city  pipes  were  put  in  and  water  supplied  free.  The  peo- 
ple preferred  water  that  had  some  body  to  it.  They  neglected  the 
pipes,  and  the  good  intentions  of  the  foreigners  availed  nothing. 
Those  who  allege  that  missionaries  would  do  better  work  if  they 
put  in  sewers  and  water  pipes  and  teach  the  people  something 
about  sanitation,  ought  to  take  these  and  similar  facts  into  account. 
The  truth  is  that  moral  regeneration  must  come  first. 

Shanghai  is  the  center  of  much  religious  activity.  As  my  time 
was  short,  James  Ware  had  a program  arranged  in  advance.  It  was 
his  wish  that  1 should  see  as  much  as  possible.  Our  first  call  was 
at  the  headquarters  of  the  China  Inland  Mission.  The  buildings 
are  among  the  finest  in  the  city.  They  are  built  about  a large 
court.  This  property  cost  not  less  than  $75,000.  The  money  was 
given  by  one  man.  Not  a dollar  given  for  the  work  of  the  mission 
went  into  the  grounds  or  buildings.  Here  are  the  offices  and  store- 
rooms of  the  mission,  besides  living-rooms  and  a chapel.  All  the 
workers  in  Shanghai  live  here  and  eat  at  a common  table.  Those 
on  their  way  to  or  from  the  interior  find  here  a home.  The  China 
Inland  Mission  has  a remarkable  history.  It  is  now  thirty  years 
old.  Dr.  J.  Hudson  Taylor  is  its  founder  and  principal  manager. 
We  had  the  pleasure  of  an  interview  with  him.  This  mission  is 
pan-denominational  and  international.  It  accepts  workers  from  all 
evangelical  bodies.  There  are  Churchmen,  Baptists,  Methodists, 

124 


A GLIMPSE  OF  SHANGHAI 


125 


Presbytei’ians,  and  others  on  the  field.  To  prevent  friction,  the 
representatives  of  each  body  are  grouped  in  one  province.  They 
are  allowed  to  preach  and  practice  what  they  have  been  taught. 
There  are  workers  from  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  Finland,  Swe- 
den, Norway,  Denmark,  Germany,  Switzerland,  the  United  States, 
Canada,  Australia,  Tasmania,  and  New  Zealand.  No  salary  is  guar- 
anteed; they  go  out  trusting  the  Lord  to  supply  their  needs.  The 
mission  does  not  borrow  and  does  not  go  in  debt.  No  personal 
solicitation  is  made  or  collection  called  for.  The  treasury  is  sup- 
plied by  voluntary  contributions.  The  work  is  managed  by  mis- 
sionary directors,  assisted  by  a council  of  experienced  workers. 
There  is  one  council  in  London,  another  in  Toronto,  another  in 
Australia,  and  another  in  Scandinavia.  These  councils  select 
workers  and  receive  and  forward  money.  The  aim  of  the  mission 
is  to  evangelize  the  whole  Empire.  At  the  present  time  sixteen  out 
of  the  eighteen  provinces  are  occupied.  There  are  seven  hundred 
men  and  women  at  work.  Forty  per  cent  of  these  are  either  self- 
supporting  or  are  supported  by  friends.  The  increase  in  the  num- 
ber of  workers  has  been  wonderful.  At  one  time  eighteen  were 
sent  out.  In  two  years  seventy-six  were  added.  In  one  year  the 
reinforcements  numbered  oue  hundred.  The  extra  offerings  of 
that  year  aggregated  $50,000.  Dr.  Taylor  does  not  believe  in  “the 
gun-boat  policy.”  If  property  is  destroyed,  no  indemnity  is 
sought.  The  mission  takes  joyfully  the  spoiling  of  its  goods.  The 
workers  believe  that  if  they  do  well  and  suffer  for  it,  and  take  it 
patiently,  that  is  acceptable  with  God.  Some  of  the  workers 
are  now  in  the  city  besieged  by  the  Mohammedans.  Their  friends 
do  not  know  their  condition,  but  prayer  is  made  continually  on 
their  behalf.  They  believe  that  they  will  be  preserved,  or  that 
grace  will  be  given  to  bear  whatever  may  come.  Dr.  Taylor  is  a 
man  of  child-like  trust  in  God.  He  is  a man  of  mark.  All  the 
workers  in  the  mission  partake  of  his  spirit. 

Our  next  call  was  on  Dr.  Ernest  Faber.  He  is  a German  of 
solid  merit  and  great  attainments.  He  is  one  of  the  first  men  in 
China.  Dr.  Faber  has  been  in  this  country  thirty-one  years.  For 
twelve  years  he  was  an  evangelist  in  and  about  Canton.  His  voice 
having  failed,  he  gave  his  life  to  literature.  He  has  written  some 
thirty  volumes.  These  are  in  Chinese,  in  German,  and  in  English. 
His  scientific  works  have  been  approved  by  the  government.  He 
has  written  on  schools  in  the  West.  He  used  to  be  asked,  “Have 
you  any  schools  in  your  country?  ” He  wrote  to  answer  that  ques- 
tion. In  all  his  works  he  has  kept  steadily  in  mind  the  conversion 


126 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


of  China.  He  told  us  of  a man  in  Japan  who  wrote  a book 
entitled,  “ How  I Became  a Christian.”  He  had  been  a Confucian- 
ist.  His  son  presented  him  with  one  of  Dr.  Faber’s  volumes.  He 
was  bigoted,  and  threw  it  aside  unread.  His  son  presented  him 
with  another  volume.  He  read  it,  and  was  led  to  accept  Christ  as 
his  Savior  and  Lord.  Dr.  Faber  spoke  of  the  prejudice  against  for- 
eigners. The  people  are  led  to  believe  that  they  take  out  the  eyes, 
and  brains,  and  hearts,  and  livers  of  the  Chinese,  and  make  medi- 
cine of  them.  It  is  this  medicine  that  makes  the  foreigners  so  wise 
and  so  strong.  The  native  physicians  see  that  their  craft  is  in  dan- 
ger. The  triumph  of  the  Gospel  means  their  overthrow.  Dr. 
Faber  has  no  doubt  as  to  the  issue  of  the  conflict  between  Bud- 
dhism and  Confucianism  and  Taoism  and  Christianity. 

Leaving  Dr.  Faber,  we  called  on  Dr.  Joseph  Edkins.  The  name 
of  this  distinguished  scholar  and  author  is  a household  word  in  the 
republic  of  letters.  His  studies  have  been  in  the  field  of  Compara- 
tive Religion  and  Philology.  He  has  written  many  books,  and 
these  have  been  widely  i*ead.  In  addition  to  his  work  in  the  Cus- 
toms and  in  the  study,  he  preaches  every  week.  He  has  been  in 
China  for  nearly  half  a century.  The  country  was  opened  only  six 
years  before  his  arrival.  The  changes  since  then  are  great.  The 
thought  of  them  fills  the  soul  with  gratitude  and  hope.  There  have 
been  riots  and  massacres,  but  the  good  done  is  immense,  and  is 
worth  all  this  suffering  and  loss  of  life,  and  more.  Sacrifice  is  the 
condition  of  progress.  The  blood  of  the  martyrs  is  the  seed  of  the 
church.  The  conviction  of  all  men  I have  met  in  China  is  that  the 
riots  are  instigated  by  the  officials.  The  people  are  kindly  disposed 
and  would  make  no  trouble  whatever,  if  their  minds  were  not 
poisoned  against  the  foreigners.  They  are  told  that  these  people 
can  see  three  feet  into  the  ground.  They  can  discover  and  carry 
away  the  precious  metals.  Their  aims  and  motives  are  represented 
as  evil,  and  only  evil.  They  want  to  overthrow  the  government 
and  take  the  country.  There  may  be  more  suffering  than  there  has 
been;  officials  may  write  books  and  send  out  circulars  to  inflame  the 
minds  of  the  populace,  but  the  work  is  of  God  and  cannot  fail. 

We  reached  Shanghai  on  Saturday.  Sunday  was  crowded  with 
services.  In  the  morning  we  met  with  the  believers  for  the  com- 
munion and  for  preaching.  This  was  after  the  Sunday-school. 
There  were  three  addresses  in  all.  At  the  close  of  the  service  there 
was  a sermon  by  Bishop  Walden  in  the  Union  Church.  In  the 
afternoon  there  was  a Bible  class  in  Mr.  Ware’s  study.  Among 
those  present  was  a girl  without  feet.  When  her  feet  were  bound 


A GLIMPSE  OF  SHANGHAI 


127 


she  cried  so  much  that  the  people  thought  she  had  a devil  and 
threw  her  out.  It  was  cold  and  her  feet  were  frozen.  They 
dropped  off  in  course  of  time.  She  is  now  a Christian.  Miss  Lyon 
expects  to  train  her  for  a Bible  woman.  Dr.  Butchart  thinks  a 
pair  of  wooden  feet  can  be  secured  for  about  forty  dollars.  Per- 
haps some  one  will  furnish  this  sum.  Another  had  been  thought 
a demoniac.  She  was  found  by  one  of  our  workers  tied  to  a post. 
She  was  naked  and  raving.  Under  kind  treatment  she  improved. 
She  was  prayed  with  and  led  to  Christ.  She  is  happily  married 
and  lives  an  exemplary  life.  After  the  Bible  class,  Mr.  Ware  ex- 
amined ten  candidates  for  baptism.  One  woman  said,  “ I am  deaf, 
very  deaf;  stupid,  very  stupid;  but  I believe  in  the  Lord  Jesus 
with  all  my  heart.”  In  the  evening  there  was  a second  service  in 
the  Union  Church.  It  was  to  the  pastorate  of  this  church  that  W. 
P.  Bentley  was  once  called,  at  a salary  twice  as  great  as  he  was  re- 
ceiving. He  did  not  entertain  the  call  for  a moment.  All  the 
workers  of  Shanghai  attend  this  church.  The  services  are  at  such 
hours  as  do  not  conflict  with  their  own.  The  union  sentiment  is 
fostered  by  these  meetings.  We  went  from  the  Union  Church  to 
the  evangelistic  service  conducted  by  James  Ware  and  Evangelist 
Ni.  This  was  a strange  but  fascinating  sight.  Men  and  women 
and  children  came  in.  Some  smoked  all  the  while.  They  came 
and  went,  but  the  house  was  full.  Some  scoffed,  others  listened  to 
the  words  that  were  spoken.  The  audience  was  different  from  that 
in  the  morning.  Chinese  Christians  have  bright  and  happy  faces. 
Mrs.  Ware  says  that  women  learn  to  read  after  their  conversion  so 
that  they  can  take  part  in  the  services.  Evangelist  Ni  has  a fine 
head  and  face.  He  looks  like  a bald  eagle.  One  feels  on  seeing 
him  that  he  is  worthy  of  one’s  love  and  trust. 

On  Monday  we  visited  the  rooms  of  the  American  Bible  Society. 
Dr.  Hykes,  the  manager  for  China,  showed  us  through  the  building 
and  explained  the  work.  Last  year  nearly  500,000  Scriptures,  or 
portions  thereof,  were  sold.  Few  are  given  away.  People  prize 
more  highly  that  which  costs  something.  The  books  are  sold  below 
cost  so  as  to  bring  them  within  the  reach  of  nearly  all.  The  Bible 
is  printed  in  the  twenty-eight  Chinese  dialects.  In  different  sec- 
tions of  theEmpire  the  dialects  are  different.  A Cantonese  would  not 
be  easily  understood  in  Peking.  A Nankin  man  is  not  easily  under- 
stood in  Shanghai.  Colporteurs  go  out  and  distribute  the  Word  of 
Life.  The  missionaries  on  their  tours  do  the  same.  Dr.  Hykes  is  an 
aggressive  man.  There  was  a very  marked  increase  in  the  sales 
last  year;  the  sales  for  the  current  year  are  still  larger.  Near  by  is 


128 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


the  Presbyterian  Press,  the  largest  mission  press  in  any  field.  This 
is  one  of  the  institutions  of  the  East.  It  is  known  in  all  parts  of 
the  world.  It  was  established  in  1844.  It  cost  $65,000.  Never  was 
there  a wiser  investment.  It  pays  all  expenses  and  more.  It 
prints,  binds,  makes  type,  plates,  and  everything  else  that  is  done 
in  a great  establishment.  One  year  it  printed  30,000,000  pages. 
Every  mission  in  China  is  helped  by  this  Press.  Not  only  so,  but 
its  work  goes  to  all  parts  of  the  globe.  The  day  we  were  there  an 
order  was  received  from  the  University  of  Berlin  for  a font  of 
Chinese  type.  Mr.  Fitch,  the  director,  is  an  Ohio  man,  and  a very 
clever  gentleman. 

From  the  Press  we  went  to  a baptismal  service.  The  candidates 
that  Mr.  "Ware  examined  on  Sunday  were  present.  There  were  ten 
in  all.  An  address  was  delivered  by  Mr.  Ni  explaining  the  meaning 
of  the  ordinance.  With  the  exception  of  one  woman  seventy 
years  of  age,  the  candidates  were  3'oung  and  strong.  They  will 
form  a valuable  addition  to  the  church.  At  the  close  of  this  ser- 
vice we  hastened  to  the  monthly  prayer-meeting  in  the  Union 
Church.  Here  we  met  many  missionaries  and  several  other  noted 
personages.  Reports  were  given  from  different  parts  of  the  field. 
It  was  a season  of  refreshing  from  the  presence  of  the  Lord.  The 
unhappy  divisions  of  Christendom  were  forgotten.  All  present 
seemed  to  be  members  of  one  body.  That  night  the  Christians 
came  to  Mr.  Ware’s  house  and  gave  me  a reception  and  an  address. 
The  sentiments  are  too  flattering  to  be  printed  in  English.  Per- 
haps that  is  the  reason  they  are  in  Chinese.  They  brought  their 
refreshments  with  them.  A stranger  here  soon  gets  acquainted  and 
feels  at  home.  He  cannot  fail  to  realize  that  he  is  among  kindred 
in  Christ.  The  warmth  of  their  welcome  is  unmistakable. 

The  next  morning  we  visited  the  Anglo-Chinese  College.  We 
went  early,  that  we  might  see  the  students  in  the  chapel.  This  is 
the  school  of  the  M.  E.  Church,  South.  The  teaching  is  in  English 
and  Chinese.  The  government  takes  the  best  students  before  they 
are  graduated  and  places  them  in  its  technical  and  naval  schools. 
It  pays  all  their  expenses  and  gives  them  a salary  besides.  Their 
knowledge  of  English  and  science  makes  them  more  valuable. 
The  school  has  a very  desirable  property.  The  tuition  fees  pay  all 
expenses,  except  the  salaries  of  the  foreign  teachers.  Some  of  the 
boys  are  Christians,  but  most  of  them  are  not.  Many  of  them 
would  unite  with  the  church  if  their  parents  would  give  their  con- 
sent. One  mother  threatened  to  commit  suicide  if  her  son  con- 
fessed his  faith  in  Christ.  These  boys  are  Christians  in  their  con- 


CHINESE  PAGODA.  CHINESE  PRIEST  BEGGING 


A GLIMPSE  OF  SHANGHAI 


129 


duct.  They  are  friends  of  the  work.  On  the  way  to  the  school 
and  back  we  went  through  a large  market.  It  was  curious  to  see 
every  buyer  using  his  own  scales.  He  cannot  trust  the  seller  to  use 
just  weights  and  a just  balance.  That  morning  we  went  out  to  St. 
John’s  College.  This  is  the  school  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church.  There  are  in  the  boys’  school  one  hundred  and  thirty-five 
students;  in  the  girls’  school  sixty,  and  in  the  orphanage  forty 
children.  The  school  has  a splendid  property.  It  cost  not  less 
than  $100,000.  Prof.  Cooper  showed  us  the  buildings  and  the 
grounds.  There  are  no  cleaner  and  neater  rooms  in  China.  We 
saw  the  boys  eat  their  rice  at  noon.  It  was  a sight  worth  seeing. 
St.  Luke’s  Hospital  belongs  to  the  same  society.  Dr.  Boone  began 
with  two  beds.  The  property  now  used  is  worth  $50,000.  This 
was  bought  by  the  Chinese,  and  given  to  the  mission  in  recognition 
of  the  value  of  such  an  institution.  Dr.  Boone  told  us  of  the  in- 
fluence of  the  hospital.  A member  of  the  literary  class  living  in 
Woosungwas  paralyzed  by  overwork.  He  was  cross,  cursed  the 
children,  and  threw  his  crutch  at  them.  He  was  the  terror  of  the 
place.  Dr.  Boone  was  able  to  send  him  some  medicine  that  healed 
him.  His  heart  was  full  of  gratitude,  and  he  wanted  to  do  some- 
thing. He  opened  a school  and  soon  won  the  confidence  and  love 
of  the  boys.  He  would  take  no  pay.  His  conversion  deeply 
impressed  many.  They  said  if  the  Gospel  can  change  such  a brute 
into  such  a man  it  must  be  a good  thing. 

The  same  day  we  visited  Sicawei,  the  great  Jesuit  institution. 
There  are  two  hundred  orphans  here.  They  are  sent  to  school  and 
taught  trades.  We  were  shown  through  the  shops.  We  saw  car- 
penters, printers,  painters,  tailors  and  shoemakers.  These  orphans 
are  kept  in  charge  till  they  are  twenty-seven  years  old,  lest  they 
should  go  back  to  heathenism.  In  the  nunnery  is  a school  for 
girls.  There  is  a seminary  in  which  priests  are  trained.  The 
Observatory  furnishes  Shanghai  with  the  time  and  weather  indica- 
tions. We  saw  the  model  of  a new  cathedral.  This  will  cost 
$500,000.  It  will  be  built  in  time.  The  priests  could  not  have  been 
more  obliging.  They  were  pleased  to  see  us  and  to  give  us  any 
information  asked  for.  They  showed  us  through  this  vast  estab- 
lishment. There  are  many  other  institutions  in  Shanghai  that  we 
did  not  see,  on  account  of  a lack  of  time.  Mr.  Ware  drives  furious- 
ly and  accomplishes  more  than  several  ordinary  men,  but  even  he 
could  not  see  all  that  is  worth  seeing  in  this  great  city  in  two  and  a 
half  days. 

9 


130 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


One  thing  impresses  a stranger  out  here,  namely,  the  extreme 
cordiality  of  every  one.  I took  a score  of  introductory  letters  with 
me.  Dr.  Ashmore  told  me  I would  not  need  them.  He  was  right. 
I have  not  shown  one.  It  is  sufficient  that  one  is  interested  in  the 
work.  Catholics  and  Protestants  of  all  schools,  and  men  who  have 
no  direct  connection  with  missionary  work,  take  delight  in  showing 
one  every  possible  courtesy.  Buddhist  and  Confucianist  have 
invited  me  to  eat  and  drink  with  them.  With  Tiny  Tim  I sajr, 
i(  God  bless  them,  every  one.” 


XX. 


FROM  SHANGHAI  TO  NANKIN. 

Mr.  Ware  arranged  that  we  should  call  on  the  way  at  several 
out-stations  in  his  district.  This  made  it  needful  for  us  to  go  partly 
by  water  and  partly  by  land.  The  first  place  which  we  wished  to 
visit  is  Tsungming.  This  is  a large  island  in  the  mouth  of  the 
Yangtsze,  with  a population  of  a million.  We  left  Shanghai  in  the 
“Love,”  the  boat  which  the  English  Sunday-schools,  under  the 
leadership  of  Mr.  J.  Coop,  gave  the  mission.  James  Ware  was 
captain,  Dr.  Butchart  was  surgeon,  and  I was  the  passenger.  The 
wind  was  straight  ahead  and  blowing  so  hard,  that  with  all  our 
efforts  we  made  only  seven  miles  in  ten  hours.  We  ran  into  a creek 
known  as  the  Exalted  Bridge  Creek  for  the  night.  As  the  sun  was 
setting  we  took  a walk  into  the  country.  We  saw  graves  in  all 
directions.  In  one  field  I counted  one  hundred  and  fifty.  Some 
coffins  are  uncovered.  Others  are  enclosed  in  brick  vaults,  or  have 
mounds  of  earth  built  over  them.  Half  the  field  is  thus  occupied. 
The  time  and  place-of  burial  are  fixed  by  luck-doctors.  They  get 
the  date  of  birth  and  marriage  and  death  of  the  deceased,  examine 
carefully  the  contour  of  the  country,  the  hills,  valleys,  canals,  and 
water  courses,  and  then  consult  their  books  and  diagrams  and  work 
out  the  grand  result.  They  fix  the  exact  spot  and  the  precise  angle 
in  which  the  coffin  is  to  lie.  It  may  take  weeks  or  years  to  do  this. 
The  luck-doctors  make  a good  living  at  this  business.  If  any  good 
befalls  the  family  it  is  because  the  right  man  was  selected  to  locate 
the  coffin.  China  is  one  vast  graveyard.  You  see  graves  along  the 
roads  and  canals,  near  the  temples,  within  and  without  the  city 
walls,  on  every  farm.  One  is  never  out  of  sight  of  these  eloquent 
reminders  of  our  mortality. 

The  next  morning  we  weighed  anchor  and  started.  We  had  to 
stop  at  Woosung  for  the  tide  to  turn.  This  place  is  at  the  junction 
of  the  Whangpoo  and  Yangtsze.  We  called  at  the  chapel  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society.  Here  we  met  a man  who  had  been  a 
fortune-teller  and  an  opium  smoker.  He  gave  up  both,  burned  his 
books  of  magic,  and  is  now  a helper  in  the  mission.  We  entered 

an  opium  den  and  saw  a Buddhist  monk  enjoying  his  pipe.  He  was 

131 


132 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


a dirty,  ragged  fellow.  We  tried  to  persuade  him  to  abandon  this 
evil  and  hurtful  practice,  but  our  words  fell  on  deaf  ears.  Opium 
is  the  curse  of  China.  Wherever  we  have  been  wTe  have  found  its 
victims.  We  are  asked  every  day  for  medicine  to  break  the  habit. 
The  sad  thing  about  it  is,  that  it  was  forced  on  China  by  Christian 
England.  When  the  Emperor  was  urged  to  legalize  the  trade  and 
make  it  a source  of  revenue,  he  replied  that  he  could  not  use  as  a 
revenue  that  which  brought  suffering  and  misery  upon  his  people. 
As  soon  as  the  tide  turned  we  tried  again  to  make  Tsungming,  but 
failed.  At  dark  we  put  into  another  creek  and  waited  for  the  wind 
to  change.  At  midnight  Captain  Ware  started  again,  and  at  day- 
break we  were  at  the  land.  If  the  “Love”  had  an  engine  she 
would  make  this  trip  in  six  or  seven  hours.  Instead,  it  took  two 
wThole  days.  An  engine  can  be  put  in  for  one  hundred  dollars. 
Perhaps  some  good  friend  will  wTrite  a check  for  this  sum.  In  that 
case  one  can  go  to  Tsungming  and  preach  and  return  the  same  day. 
Now  it  takes  the  best  part  of  a week.  This  accounts  for  the  fact 
that,  though  this  island  is  only  forty  miles  distant  from  Shanghai, 
no  Gospel  work  has  been  done  on  it  before. 

After  breakfast  we  entered  the  city.  We  found  Evangelist  Ku 
in  the  chapel.  He  is  a fine  fellow.  He  is  young  and  has  not  had 
much  experience.  He  spends  two  days  each  month  in  Shanghai 
with  Mr.  Ware.  There  are  services  every  day  in  the  chapel.  There 
is  a reading-room  open  to  all.  So  far  as  known  there  have  been  no 
conversions  at  this  place,  though  there  are  some  inquirers.  It  is 
difficult  to  trace  the  influence  and  to  tabulate  results.  One  man 
preached  in  Chefoo  for  years  and  saw  no  fruit.  Afterwards  he 
learned  that  four  hundred  wrere  won  in  these  seemingly  unfruitful 
years.  The  promise  is,  “You  shall  reap  if  you  faint  not.”  One 
sows  and  another  reaps.  The  time  will  come  when  the  sower  and 
reaper  shall  rejoice  together.  Love  never  fails.  Like  all  Chinese 
cities,  Tsungming  is  a filthy  place.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  full 
of  people.  The  houses  are  ojjeu  summer  and  winter.  The  cook- 
ing and  eating  are  in  view  of  all  who  pass  by.  There  is  no  privacy 
and  no  delicacy.  The  gutters  are  rank  and  smell  to  heaven. 
Stagnant  ponds,  covered  with  green  scum,  breed  malaria  and  pesti- 
lence. The  wonder  is  that  people  live  at  all.  But  they  do.  Chil- 
dren are  remarkably  healthy.  I have  seen  but  one  puny  child,  and 
that  was  in  a hospital.  Doubtless  many  die,  and  only  the  fittest 
survive.  We  spent  two  hours  in  the  chapel,  and  then  continued 
our  journey.  In  the  evening  we  reached  and  crossed  the  river.  It 
was  late  when  we  found  our  hotel.  In  ten  minutes  the  place  was 


FROM  SHANGHAI  TO  NANKIN 


133 


full.  Men  and  women  and  children  came  in  and  watched  us. 
They  felt  and  commented  on  our  coats,  shoes,  collars,  ties,  eyes  and 
hair.  You  cannot  lock  the  people  out  and  eat  and  drink  and  rest 
in  peace.  An  attempt  of  that  sort  would  be  resented.  The  doors 
would  be  broken  down  in  an  instant.  The  Chinese  reason  that 
they  have  a right  to  know  what  a stranger  is  doing.  If  he  wishes 
concealment  it  is  because  he  is  planning  mischief.  Workers  open 
everything  to  those  who  wish  to  see.  A Chinese  crowd  is  not 
always  attractive,  according  to  our  notions.  One  man  took  our  tea 
kettle,  and  putting  the  spout  in  his  mouth,  slaked  his  thirst.  The 
noses  of  the  boys  are  not  always  nice.  If  by  pre-arrangement  with 
one’s  ancestors,  one  has  a stomach  that  is  not  easily  upset,  one  will 
find  it  more  precious  than  rubies.  My  bed  was  on  a box.  The 
others  had  rough  bedsteads.  We  had  our  own  bedding.  This  is 
the  universal  custom  here.  Coolies,  travelers,  friends  visiting 
friends,  rich  and  poor,  all  carry  their  own  bedding.  People  were 
coming  and  going  all  night,  but  they  did  not  molest  us.  “ China’s 
millions”  gave  us  a wide  berth.  We  slept  very  well.  For  supper 
and  lodging  we  paid  about  seven  cents  each. 

As  soon  as  it  was  light  we  started.  We  made  ten  miles  before 
breakfast.  Though  we  were  off  so  early  hundreds  were  out  to  see 
us.  Our  coming  was  an  event  in  their  lives.  It  was  like  a circus  at 
home.  We  were  the  first  foreigners  many  of  them  had  ever  seen. 
We  traveled  all  day  in  wheel-barrows.  There  are  no  railways  and 
no  stage  coaches  or  carts  in  this  part  of  the  Empire.  The  wheel- 
barrow is  the  sole  method  of  transportation.  Thirty  miles  is  a 
day’s  journey.  A wheelbarrow  in  China  has  as  little  romance  and 
comfoi’t  as  one  at  home.  It  could  be  made  fairly  comfortable,  but 
that  would  not  be  Chinese.  Any  change  would  show  disrespect  to 
Confucius.  At  the  close  of  the  first  day  one  feels  pretty  sore. 
The  roads  are  narrow  and  poor;  China  has  the  worst  roads  in  the 
world.  It  is  only  by  courtesy  that  they  can  be  called  roads.  They 
are  like  Indian  trails.  Men  must  walk  in  single  file.  The  bridges 
are  about  two  feet  wide.  Culverts  are  often  not  six  inches.  A 
single  stone,  or  a piece  of  wood  flattened  on  one  side,  answers  the 
purpose.  Xo  cart  or  horse  could  go  over  the  roads  and  bridges  in 
this  part  of  China.  The  coolies  are  great,  strong  fellows.  One 
wheeled  two  men  over  thirty  miles  in  a day,  and  seemed  as  fresh  at 
the  end  as  at  the  beginning.  They  go  faster  with  a load  than  we 
could  without.  I never  looked  at  them  without  admiration.  Give 
these  beasts  of  burden  the  Gospel  and  a good  education,  and  they 
will  be  worthy  to  stand  before  kings. 


134 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


At  every  village  the  people  flocked  out  to  see  us.  Women 
tottered  out  on  their  small  feet.  A thousand  would  gather  in  the 
twinkling  of  an  eye.  They  were  curious,  but  civil.  We  heard  the 
words  “ foreign  devil  ” once  or  twice,  but  they  came  from  small 
boys.  The  men  gathered  about  us  and  felt  us,  but  they  said  noth- 
ing disrespectful.  No  sooner  did  we  stop  than  Mr.  Ware  began  to 
speak.  He  illustrated  Christ’s  method,  “As  you  go,  preach.”  He 
talks  like  a native  and  secures  the  attention  of  all.  Mr.  Ku  was  by 
his  side  with  copies  of  the  Scripture  in  his  hand.  He  took  a lai'ge 
package  from  Tsungming.  Long  before  reaching  the  last  station 
every  copy  was  sold.  We  would  wait  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  at  a 
place.  The  coolies  would  get  their  breath  and  smoke  a pipe  or  eat 
a bowl  of  rice.  Then  we  hastened  on.  Sometimes  we  entered  a 
tea-house.  This  is  a Chinese  institution.  It  answers  to  our  saloon. 
For  a cent  or  half  a cent  we  can  have  a cup  of  tea.  There  are 
tables  and  benches  and  one  can  sit  and  rest.  The  floor  is  of  dirt  or 
brick.  Pigs  and  dogs  and  chickens  act  as  scavengers.  Birds  build 
their  nests  in  the  roof.  People  come  here  to  gamble,  to  transact 
business,  to  hear  or  tell  some  new  thing,  or  to  eat  and  drink.  Ped- 
dlers come  in  and  sell  cakes,  peanuts,  sweet  potatoes,  melon  seed, 
candies,  and  smoke.  A man  has  a pipe  with  a long  handle  and  one 
can  have  a smoke  for  a cash.  No  sooner  were  we  seated  than  the 
people  gathered  and  the  conversation  began.  It  does  not  take  an 
expert  long  to  introduce  spiritual  topics.  James  Ware  is  a prince 
for  this  kind  of  work.  He.  has  an  answer  for  every  question.  He 
keeps  the  crowd  in  good  humor.  Nothing  ever  ruffles  his  spirit. 
If  the  wind  is  ahead,  he  is  sure  it  will  soon  change.  If  it  rains,  he 
is  thankful  it  does  not  snow.  If  fleas  abound,  he  is  happy  in  the 
thought  that  they  are  not  bed-bugs.  It  is  a picnic  to  travel  with 
such  a jolly  genius. 

We  were  traveling  in  one  of  the  best  parts  of  China.  The  land 
is  as  fertile  as  in  Central  Illinois.  Farmers  raise  two  crops  a year. 
And  yet  they  are  poor.  Their  houses  are  built  for  the  most  part  of 
mud  and  thatch.  There  are  no  barns.  Plowing  and  harrowing  are 
done  with  the  water  buffalo.  We  did  not  see  a horse  all  day.  The 
people  are  industrious  and  economical.  Nothing  is  allowed  to  go 
to  waste.  The  grass  along  the  roads  and  on  the  mountains  and  on 
the  commons  is  cut  for  fuel.  Living  cheaply  is  reduced  to  a 
science.  The  Chinese  do  not  drink  milk  or  eat  beef.  Their  lakes 
and  rivers  abound  in  fish.  We  saw  men  catching  them  in  all  sorts 
of  ways.  The  most  curious  method  we  saw  was  by  the  use  of  cor- 
morants. These  birds  are  traine  1 to  dive  and  swim  so  swiftly  that 


FROM  SHANGHAI  TO  NANKIN 


135 


no  fish  can  easily  escape  them.  The  owner  places  a collar  around 
the  neck  of  the  bird  to  prevent  it  swallowing  any  large  fish.  He 
can  tell  by  its  weight  whether  it  has  taken  anything  or  not.  The 
birds  are  rewarded  with  a part  of  what  they  have  caught,  or  are  fed 
with  other  food.  These  fish,  either  fresh  or  salted,  are  used  with 
the  rice,  the  great  article  of  food  among  the  Chinese. 

We  reached  Tung  Chau  a little  after  dark.  This  place  is  thirty- 
three  miles  from  the  place  where  we  slept  the  night  previous. 
Tung  Chau  is  a walled  city,  and  has  a population  of  about  75,000. 
We  went  to  the  chapel  and  book-room  and  saw  the  evangelist  in 
charge.  We  had  been  hearing  of  this  work  most  of  the  day.  At 
nearly  every  place  we  stopped  we  met  with  some  one  who  had  heard 
the  Gospel  or  who  had  been  treated  in  some  mission  dispensary  or 
hospital.  We  rested  for  an  hour  or  two  in  the  chapel,  and  had 
supper.  Mr.  Ware  and  Mr.  Ivu  remained  there  to  preach  for  a day 
or  two  and  then  return  home.  Dr.  Butchart  and  I left  for  the  river. 
This  was  seven  miles  distant.  We  heard  afterward  that  the  mag- 
istrate, fearing  that  we  might  be  attacked,  sent  a secret  guard 
along  to  protect  us.  This  may  or  may  not  be  true.  We  reached 
our  inn  about  midnight.  We  slept  well  and  were  ready  for  the 
boat  the  next  morning.  That  night  I saw  the  watchmen  making 
their  rounds.  One  was  beating  a drum  ; one  carried  a gun ; the  third 
carried  a light.  The  drum  and  the  light  would  warn  the  burglars 
in  time  to  get  safely  out  of  the  way.  This  performance  resembles 
that  of  hunting  with  a brass  band. 

No  missionary  confines  his  labors  to  one  spot.  He  has  his 
center  where  he  carries  on  a work.  From  this  center  he  goes  out 
into  the  adjacent  country.  This  was  Christ’s  method.  He  did  not 
build  a cathedral  in  Nazareth  or  Jerusalem,  and  say,  “Let  the 
people  come  to  me.”  He  went  about  in  all  Galilee,  and  Pertea, 
and  Samaria,  and  Judaea.  Once  the  people  wanted  to  tie  him  down 
in  their  midst.  He  said,  “I  must  preach  the  good  tidings  of  the 
kingdom  of  God  to  the  other  cities  also;  for  therefore  I was  sent.” 
These  tours  break  down  prejudice  and  disarm  fear.  The  natives 
see  that  the  foreigner  has  not  horns  and  hoofs,  and  does  not  go 
about  like  a dragon  spitting  out  fire  and  death.  All  sorts  of 
rumors  are  circulated.  All  sorts  of  notions  are  prevalent.  For- 
eigners are  believed  to  be  spies  or  secret  enemies.  They  have 
some  evil  work  in  view.  At  first  the  sick  will  not  take  medicine 
from  them.  They  are  afraid  that  there  is  some  charm  in  the  for- 
eign remedy.  They  are  told  that  the  foreigners  can  give  a pill  that 
will  make  them  become  Christians.  He  can  give  another  pill  that 


136 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


will  make  them  go  to  church  every  Sunday,  whether  it  rains  or 
shines.  A pill  answering  to  that  description  would  be  a priceless 
boon  in  America,  and  would  sell  like  hot  cakes.  The  people  see 
the  missionaries.  They  are  unarmed.  They  are  peaceful.  They 
do  good  and  not  evil.  They  sleep  in  their  houses  and  put  their 
lives  in  their  power.  They  see  that  they  are  men  like  themselves, 
bone  of  their  bone  and  flesh  of  their  flesh,  and  their  fears  and 
prejudices  take  wings  and  fly  away.  This  work  must  be  done 
before  China  can  be  Christianized. 

We  took  passage  on  the  good  ship  Sual  for  Nankin.  Captain 
Scott  is  a Christian  man  and  a friend  of  missionaries  and  their 
work.  He  did  everything  in  his  power  for  our  comfort.  There  are 
men  in  the  East,  as  in  the  West,  who  sneer  at  missionaries.  I 
have  found  two  classes  that  have  confidence  in  them.  They  are 
the  bankers  and  the  ship-owners.  With  these  classes  the  mission- 
aries have  almost  unlimited  credit.  That  speaks  volumes  for 
them,  and  outweighs  all  vulgar  and  carnal  sneers.  The  next 
morning  we  were  in  Nankin.  I went  ashore,  thankful  for  the 
insight  into  missionary  work  which  I had  gained,  and  for  such 
pleasant  companionship.  In  the  Mission  Compound  we  had  a 
royal  welcome. 


- 

1.  Mrs.  F.  F.  Meigs.  3.  Frank  Garrett.  2.  Mrs.  Frank  Garrett. 

4.  Miss  Mary  Kelly.  5.  Mrs.  E.  P.  Hearnden. 


NANKIN.  CHINA. 


XXI. 


NANKIN  AND  ROUND  ABOUT. 

Nankin  is  two  hundred  miles  from  Shanghai.  It  was  once  the 
capital  of  China,  and  may  be  again.  We  had  hardly  reached  the 
place  before  the  work  of  sight-seeing  began.  The  first  thing  on 
the  list  was  Dr.  Macklin’s  clinic  at  the  South  Gate.  Mr.  Williams 
and  Mr.  Saw  volunteered  to  go  with  me.  We  got  donkeys  and 
started.  No  carriage  could  make  its  way  through  such  narrow 
and  crowded  streets.  The  Viceroy  has  built  a wide  road  from  one 
side  of  the  city  to  the  other.  Horses  and  carriages  are  seen  on  it, 
but  nowhere  else.  A boy  goes  with  each  donkey  to  twist  his  tail 
to  make  him  go,  to  make  the  appropriate  remarks  when  things  go 
wrong,  and  to  clear  the  way  when  it  is  blocked.  The  sights  and 
smells  soon  convince  one  that  he  is  in  a heathen  city.  Though  there 
are  half  a million  souls  within  the  walls  of  Nankin,  there  are  no 
sewers  and  no  sanitary  provisions  whatever.  Large  ponds  are  cov- 
ered with  green  scum.  Gutters  are  filled  with  garbage  and  filth. 
Coffins  and  graves  are  everywhere  in  sight.  Houses  are  plastered 
with  charms  to  keep  away  evil  spirits  and  disease.  In  times  of  pes- 
tilence the  streets  are  lined  with  idols  and  altars.  Cleanliness 
would  do  more  to  prevent  the  plagues  than  all  the  prayers  and 
offerings. 

We  found  Dr.  Macklin  preparing  an  address  and  the  dispensary 
full  of  people.  The  building  is  imperial  property.  It  is  an  admir- 
able place  for  the  purpose.  It  is  in  one  of  the  busiest  parts  of  the 
city.  Tens  of  thousands  pass  by  every  day  in  the  year.  The  build- 
ing is  large  and  well  arranged  for  a chapel  and  dispensary.  There 
is  a room  in  the  front  that  will  hold  two  hundred  people  or  more. 
The  medical  work  is  done  in  rooms  at  the  rear.  Before  seeing  any 
cases,  Dr.  Macklin  preaches  to  the  people.  The  medical  work  is 
auxiliary  to  the  evangelistic.  Christ  meets  all  the  needs  of  human- 
ity. He  has  healing  for  the  body,  truth  for  the  mind,  and  redemp- 
tion for  the  soul.  He  asked  me  to  speak  a few  words,  which  he 
interpreted.  While  he  was  seeing  the  sick,  Mr.  Williams  and  Mr. 
Saw  made  brief  addresses.  The  patients  were  suffering  from  all 

kinds  of  diseases.  There  were  in  the  group  victims  of  dropsy,  epi- 

137 


138 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


lepsy,  syphilis,  rheumatism,  itch,  ague,  running  sores,  enlarged 
spleen,  hip  disease,  consumption,  varicose  veins,  leprosy.  Some  of 
these  answered  to  the  prophet’s  description,  “From  the  crown  of 
the  head  to  the  sole  of  the  foot  there  was  no  soundness,  but  wounds 
and  bruises  and  putrefying  sores.”  The  scene  reminded  me  of  the 
saying  about  the  Christ,  “And  they  brought  unto  him  all  that  were 
sick,  holden  with  divers  diseases  and  torments,  possessed  with 
demons,  and  epileptic  and  palsied;  and  he  healed  them.”  Only  the 
worst  cases  come  to  the  foreign  doctor.  The  Chinese  prefer  their 
own  physicians  in  trivial  cases.  The  clinic  averages  about  eighty. 
With  his  two  trained  assistants,  the  Doctor  gets  through  in  two 
hours.  Each  patient  gets  a tract  or  a Gospel.  After  the  clinic  we 
had  luncheon,  and  then  we  went  to  a tea-house  and  had  some  more 
Gospel  talk.  At  another  time  I attended  a clinic  in  the  dispensary 
connected  with  the  Memorial  Hospital.  There  was  first  the  preach- 
ing and  then  the  healing.  It  was  interesting  to  watch  the  people. 
One  woman  tried  to  kiss  the  Doctor’s  feet.  She  felt  as  the  woman 
did  who  said  to  another  medical  missionary,  “ Och,  docktar  darlint, 
may  ivery  hair  of  yere  head  be  a candle  to  light  ye  to  glory.”  Some 
of  these  patients  come  from  places  a hundred  miles  distant.  In 
touring,  the  workers  nearly  always  find  men  who  have  been  helped 
in  Nankin.  These  men  are  always  friends.  Mr.  Hunt  was  accused 
by  some  soldiers  of  being  a Japanese  and  a spy.  His  life  was  in 
peril.  The  captain  recognized  him  and  let  him  go.  This  man  had 
been  treated  in  the  hospital.  Though  they  are  in  daily  contact  with 
these  diseases  the  physicians  are  not  attacked.  The  promise  is 
verified,  “A  thousand  shall  fall  at  thy  side,  and  ten  thousand  at  thy 
right  hand,  but  it  shall  not  come  nigh  thee.”  The}r  are  better  fed 
and  observe  the  laws  of  health,  and  hence  resist  disease  as  the 
natives  in  their  poverty  and  dirt  can  not.  The  Doctor  showed  me 
through  the  hospital.  It  is  a noble  building,  one  of  the  best  in 
Nankin.  In  the  reception  room  are  pictures  of  O.  A.  Burgess,  A. 
M.  Atkinson,  J.  M.  Trible,  and  Joseph  King.  When  this  work 
began  the  neighbors  were  angry  and  disposed  to  drive  the  Doctor 
away.  When  the  hospital  was  built  they  made  a feast,  and  hung  up 
congratulatory  scrolls,  and  made  an  offering  of  one  hundred  dollars. 

The  boys  in  the  school  and  the  teachers  heard  of  my  coming,  and 
wished  to  welcome  me  in  their  own  way.  They  prepared  a beautiful 
silk  scroll  and  wrote  on  it  an  inscription  far  too  complimentary  to 
be  exact.  They  presented  the  scroll,  and  one  of  the  number  made 
an  address.  One  part  of  the  ceremony  was  the  explosion  of  a 
thousand  fire-crackers.  Afterwards  I visited  the  school  and  saw  its 


NANKIN  AND  BOUND  ABOUT 


139 


workings.  Prof.  Meigs  has  three  assistants.  The  Bible  is  taught 
ever}7  day.  The  exercises  begin  with  praise  and  prayer.  The  boys 
are  taught  the  classics,  mathematics,  geography,  history,  and  sci- 
ence. Every  truth  of  science  or  history  helps  to  cut  the  roots 
of  superstition  and  prejudice.  Chinese  maps  give  almost  all  the 
globe  to  China.  Other  nations  are  insignificant  in  size  and  ai’e  vas- 
sals and  pay  tribute.  A map  showing  the  relative  size  of  China  and 
giving  facts  as  to  the  size,  population,  resources,  and  form  of  gov- 
ernment of  other  nations,  opens  the  eyes  of  the  Chinese.  In  the 
native  schools  the  Chinese  characters  and  classics  are  taught,  and 
nothing  else.  Graduates  ask,  Are  Japan  and  England  neighbors? 
In  what  province  is  England?  Is  the  Queen  coming  to  worship  the 
Emperor?  Does  the  sun  shine  in  your  country?  Do  you  till  the 
soil?  Do  you  have  any  rice?  Is  Jesus  your  King?  An  eclipse  is 
caused  by  a dragon  trying  to  eat  the  sun.  Gongs  are  beaten  and 
cannon  fired  to  scare  the  monster  away.  A few  lessons  in  astron- 
omy are  sufficient  to  make  eclipses  intelligible.  The  telescope  and 
other  scientific  apparatus  presented  to  this  school  by  Captain  Atkin- 
son, and  the  microscope  presented  by  President  Loos,  are  of  the 
greatest  value.  Prof.  Meigs  has  as  many  boys  as  he  can  take.  He 
needs  a dormitory.  This  will  cost  about  $1,500.  He  is  preparing 
to  start  some  industrial  work.  He  feels  that  this  department  is 
absolutely  necessary.  In  China  the  literary  class  is  the  highest  of 
all.  It  has  the  whitest  and  softest  hands  and  the  longest  finger- 
nails. It  has  the  greatest  aversion  to  labor.  This  feeling  must  be 
broken  down.  If  pupils  are  taught  to  work  with  their  hands  an 
hour  every  day,  their  conception  of  the  dignity  of  labor  will  be 
changed.  In  this  school  are  several  promising  young  men.  It  is 
hoped  that  they  will  develop  into  effective  evangelists. 

One  day  was  spent  with  Mr.  Williams  on  one  of  his  circuits. 
This  one  was  about  ten  miles  in  length.  We  left  the  city  by  one 
gate  and  came  back  by  another.  He  spoke  six  or  eight  times.  At 
each  village  we  got  down  from  our  donkeys  and  ordered  some  tea. 
The  people  gathered  about  us  and  began  to  ask  questions.  They 
asked  our  honorable  names  and  exalted  ages,  where  our  noble  man- 
sions are  located,  how  many  princely  sons  we  had.  Mr.  Williams 
gave  them  the  facts  called  for,  and  then  began  to  speak  on  Gospel 
themes.  As  a rule,  they  listened  attentively.  Sometimes  they 
would  urge  an  objection  or  ask  a question.  This  would  give  him  a 
chance  to  drive  some  truth  home  to  the  heart  and  conscience.  We 
spent  an  hour  in  a temple.  The  monks  were  very  friendly.  They 
knew  Mr.  Williams.  He  spoke  to  them  about  the  idols,  and  about 


140 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


the  only  true  God,  and  Jesus  Christ  whom  he  did  send.  The  Hia 
Kwan  chapel  soon  filled.  While  Mrs.  Williams  spoke  to  the 
women  in  a separate  room,  he  addressed  the  men.  It  was  such  a 
crowd  as  gathered  about  our  Lord  or  about  Paul  on  his  tours.  The 
way  they  pressed  to  the  front,  and  the  eagerness  with  which  they 
listened  for  an  hour,  showed  that  he  had  them  in  the  hollow  of  his 
hand.  His  fluency  is  astonishing.  Few  men  can  speak  in  English 
with  such  rapidity  as  he  can  in  Chinese.  His  knowledge  of  the 
people,  their  history,  their  customs,  and  their  manner  of  life, 
served  him  well.  When  the  books  are  opened  it  may  be  found 
written  “that  this  man  and  that  man  were  born  there.” 

The  next  morning  Mr.  Meigs  asked  Mr.  Saw  and  me  to  go  with 
him  on  one  of  his  circuits.  We  were  gone  two  days.  The  first  day 
we  had  five  services.  We  spent  the  evening  and  night  in  a temple 
in  a large  village.  Part  of  the  building  is  used  as  a school.  The 
monk  in  charge  was  glad  to  see  us,  and  was  assiduous  in  supplying 
our  needs.  He  sent  the  boys  home,  and  hastened  to  cook  supper 
for  us.  While  he  was  in  the  kitchen,  we  went  out  and  held  a serv- 
ice on  the  street,  and  asked  all  to  come  to  the  temple  when  the 
work  of  the  day  was  done.  While  we  were  eating,  an  old  woman 
came  in  to  worship.  She  lighted  a candle  on  the  altar,  burned 
some  incense  before  each  of  the  gods,  then  went  back  to  the  altar, 
beat  the  gong  and  kotowed  ten  times.  Then  she  arose,  blew  out 
the  candle  and  left.  Meanwhile  the  men  of  the  place  were  coming 
in.  Messrs.  Meigs  and  Saw  sang  and  expounded  a hymn.  We 
asked  them  if  they  worshiped  the  gods.  They  said  yes.  They 
worship  the  gods  of  heaven  and  earth  and  many  others.  We  asked 
them  why  they  worshiped.  They  said  their  hearts  prompted  them. 
We  inquired  what  benefit  they  received.  They  promptly  replied, 
“None.”  We  asked  them  if  there  was  any  connection  between 
their  worship  and  their  conduct.  They  answered  us  that  there  was 
not.  The  pious  man  is  the  man  that  goes  to  the  temples  and  wor- 
ships the  gods.  It  matters  not  how  he  lives.  We  tried  to  learn 
what  they  thought  about  sin.  One  old  man  said  it  was  eating  meat. 
He  was  a vegetarian.  Another  said  that  it  was  an  offense  done 
against  a man  by  another.  Othei’s  spoke  of  it  as  a bi’each  of  pro- 
priety. Others  still  spoke  of  it  as  a violation  of  the  laws.  They 
did  not  seem  to  think  it  had  anything  to  do  with  the  gods.  We 
asked  them  if  there  were  any  reasons  why  men  should  not  sin. 
They  said  that  a man  ought  not  to  sin  in  order  that  he  might  not  be 
beaten  or  beheaded.  We  asked  them  if  they  were  sinners.  They 
laughed  at  the  thought,  and  told  us  that  they  were  Chinese.  They 


X AXE IX  AXD  ROUXD  ABOUT 


141 


regard  themselves  very  much  as  the  Pharisees  did  when  our  Lord 
was  on  earth.  They  think  that  outside  barbarians  sin;  they  do 
not.  Toward  the  close  one  man  admitted  that  he  was  a sinner. 
He  was  the  brightest  man  present.  He  was  the  principal  speaker 
throughout.  He  was  a man  of  ability  and  culture.  The  Spirit  of 
God  was  at  work.  That  man  was  convicted  of  sin.  Mr.  Saw  asked 
him  if  he  would  not  then  and  there  accept  Jesus  Christ  as  his 
Savior.  He  pressed  him  to  decide.  The  man  was  convinced,  but 
for  some  reason  was  not  willing  to  make  the  good  confession.  He 
said,  “It  is  hard  to  decide.”  The  service  lasted  three  hours,  and 
was  one  of  the  most  impressive  I ever  attended.  The  light  was 
dim.  Hundreds  of  gilt  idols  were  about  us.  Incense  pervaded  the 
room.  The  listeners  filled  every  available  inch  of  space.  The 
faces  of  many  indicated  that  they  were  in  earnest.  After  the  audi- 
ence withdrew  the  teacher  placed  the  desks  side  by  side,  and 
helped  us  make  our  beds.  Before  we  rose  the  next  morning  the 
old  woman  came  in  and  went  through  the  same  performance  as  on 
the  evening  before.  She  has  done  this  for  twenty-five  years  with- 
out missing  a morning  or  evening.  The  teacher  cooked  some  eggs 
and  made  tea,  and  sent  us  on  our  way  rejoicing.  He  has  no  faith  in 
the  idols.  But  he  burns  incense  and  bows  down.  He  w’ants  us  to 
rent  a building  in  the  village  and  come  regularly.  In  all  the  vil- 
lages we  found  the  people  willing  to  hear  the  Gospel.  Mr.  Meigs 
sold  Scriptures  and  dispensed  medicine.  The  people  used  to  fear 
him.  They  regarded  him  with  contempt  and  aversion.  On  a 
recent  visit  an  old  man  said  to  the  people:  “These  men  have  been 

coming  here  for  years.  We  know  them,  and  we  know  that  they  are 
good  men.”  That  night  there  was  a feast  in  the  Hospital.  One  of 
Dr.  Macklin’s  assistants  was  married,  and  gave  a feast  in  honor  of 
the  happy  event.  There  were  about  thirty  dishes.  It  was  an  elab- 
orate affair.  Each  guest  took  delight  in  preferring  the  others 
before  himself.  It  was  a pleasant  evening. 

While  in  Nankin  I visited  several  temples.  They  are  not  used 
much  except  during  the  great  festivals.  Some  are  used  as  bar- 
racks, others  are  stoi'ed  with  coffins.  I spoke  once  at  the  South 
Gate,  and  once  at  the  Drum  Tower,  and  once  at  the  Union  Service. 
I saw  Miss  Lyon’s  work  among  the  women  and  children.  One 
evening  was  spent  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Beebe.  They  have  been  very 
kind  to  our  workers.  They  are  most  estimable  people.  Among 
many  incidents  told  by  the  Doctor  was  one  with  a dash  of  humor. 
One  morning  he  was  called  to  one  of  the  Yamens.  The  imperial 
chamberlain  died,  and  his  wife  thought  the  proper  thing  to  do  was 


142 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


to  commit  suicide.  She  had  swallowed  gold.  Her  people  were  in 
consternation.  The  Doctor  gave  her  some  medicine  and  withdrew. 
The  next  morning  he  was  called  again.  He  found  his  patient  much 
better.  She  wanted  to  know  if  any  evil  effects  would  follow.  He 
assured  her  that  there  would  not.  The  incident  passed  out  of  his 
mind  in  a few  days.  Some  weeks  after  he  was  visited  by  some  men 
from  the  Yamen  and  asked  if  they  might  put  up  a tablet  in  the  hos- 
pital in  honor  of  this  cure.  He  said  they  could.  They  wanted  to 
know  if  they  could  do  it  that  afternoon.  That  afternoon  was  quite 
agreeable.  About  three  o’clock  a great  procession  came  down  the 
street.  A magistrate  in  his  official  robes  was  in  command.  A com- 
pany of  infantry  and  a crowd  of  men  bearing  firecrackers  attended 
the  bearers  of  the  tablet.  Arriving  at  the  place  the  soldiers  fired  a 
salute.  Ten  thousand  firecrackers  were  exploded.  The  Doctor 
took  the  magistrate  into  the  guest  room  and  gave  him  tea,  while  the 
carpenters  were  getting  the  tablet  in  place.  Then  the  guns  were 
fired  again,  and  ten  thousand  more  firecrackers  exploded.  On  the 
tablet  were  four  characters  in  gold.  They  read:  “ Divine  Percep- 

tion of  Mysterious  Devices.”  All  that  Dr.  Beebe  had  done  was  to 
give  the  woman  a dose  of  castor  oil.  Mrs.  Beebe  said  one  thing  of 
which  I have  thought  much.  It  was  to  the  effect  that  any  one  who 
can  make  them  laugh  is  a benefactor.  The  soul  is  cast  down  by  the 
pride,  indifference,  hypocrisy,  absurdities,  stolid  ignorance  and 
inveterate  prejudice  of  the  people.  Poverty  and  disease  make 
exhaustive  drafts  upon  the  sympathies.  Virtue  goes  out.  A 
hearty  laugh  brings  relief  and  helps  one  to  regain  one’s  usual  faith 
and  hope. 


XXII. 


CHU  CHEO  AND  LU  HOH. 

In  company  with  Mr.  Saw  I started  from  Nankin  on  a visit  to 
these  two  places.  Chu  Cheo  is  northwest  from  Nankin,  and  is  forty 
miles  distant.  Lu  Hoh  is  northeast  from  Nankin,  and  is  thirty 
miles  from  it.  Chu  Cheo  and  Lu  Hoh  are  forty  miles  apart.  Mr. 
Williams  went  with  us  as  far  as  Pukeo.  He  preaches  here  every 
week  in  the  chapel  rented  by  the  mission.  We  were  two  hours  in 
crossing  the  river.  The  Chinese  are  never  in  a hurry.  Their  part- 
ing words  are,  “ Slowly,  slowly  go.”  It  would  be  as  easy  to  hurry 
a Court  of  Chancery  as  to  hurry  a coolie.  The  animals  were  gotten 
aboard  the  ferry-boat  with  much  difficulty.  A rope  was  tied  about 
the  neck  and  two  men  pulled  on  it;  another  took  hold  of  the  tail; 
another  still  used  the  wffiip.  They  were  forced  to  jump  up  about 
four  feet  and  then  to  jump  down  into  the  hold  of  the  junk.  It 
wrould  be  an  easy  matter  to  build  a gangway.  This  would  be  a sav- 
ing in  time  and  trouble,  to  say  nothing  of  the  comfort  to  the  ani- 
mals. But  their  ancestors  did  it  in  this  way,  and  any  improvement 
is  out  of  order.  Truly,  “ the  dark  places  of  the  earth  are  full  of 
the  habitations  of  cruelty.”  When  a dying  man  is  driven  out  of 
doors  to  breathe  his  last  on  the  street,  when  a drowning  man  is  left 
to  perish  unless  he  can  pay  some  one  to  rescue  him,  we  need  not  be 
surprised  if  mules  and  donkeys  fare  as  they  do. 

Chu  Cheo  is  on  the  great  high  road  between  Nankin  and  Peking. 
Imperial  couriers  go  this  way  when  they  bear  messages  from  the 
Emperor  to  the  Viceroy.  This  road  was  once  fairly  good,  but  it 
has  been  sadly  neglected.  No  wagon  could  go  over  it  now.  We 
met  caravans  of  donkeys  carrying  rice  and  wheat  and  oil  and  mer- 
chandise. We  met  wheelbarrows  without  number  and  coolies  car- 
rying heavy  loads,  but  we  did  not  meet  a cart  or  wagon  drawn  by 
horses  or  oxen  or  steam.  The  bridges  are  good  but  narrow.  Night 
coming  on,  we  put  up  at  an  inn.  The  place  was  well  supplied  with 
opium,  but  had  neither  rice  nor  tea.  We  went  out  to  a tea-house 
and  got  some  supper.  We  slept  in  a large  room  with  a score  or 
more  of  human  beings,  and  pigs  and  donkeys  and  fleas.  There  was 

no  lock  on  the  door  and  no  door  to  the  establishment.  We  were 

143 


144 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


weary  and  slept  well.  The  lullabies  of  the  donkeys  were  unneces- 
sary. The  fleas  insisted  on  escorting  us  to  the  next  station,  and 
were  loth  to  leave  us  then.  While  in  this  hotel  and  on  this  trip,  I 
felt  that  the  shadow  had  gone  on  the  sun-dial  several  millenniums. 
We  were  in  the  Patriarchal  age.  The  rude  plows  and  harrows  and 
harness,  the  method  of  sowing  seed  and  reaping  the  harvest,  are 
such  as  were  in  use  in  the  days  of  Abraham.  The  ox  still  treads 
out  the  corn,  or  it  is  beaten  out  by  hand.  The  farmer  throws  it 
up  into  the  air  that  the  wind  may  drive  away  the  chaff.  The  mill- 
stone is  turned  by  an  ass  or  by  the  wife.  In  large  towns  flint  and 
steel  are  sold  to  kindle  the  fire.  Men  and  women  haul  boats  along 
the  rivers  and  canals.  The  next  day,  a little  before  noon,  we 
reached  Chu  Cheo.  We  took  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hearnden  and  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Hunt  by  surprise.  Their  welcome  was  not  the  less  cordial  on 
that  account.  This  town  has  a population  of  20,000,  and  is  the 
center  of  a district  having  a population  of  4,000,000.  From  this 
center  the  missionaries  evangelize  the  outlying  cities  and  villages  in 
a district  of  5,000  square  miles. 

That  afternoon  we  left  for  Yu  Ho  Tsz,  arriving  at  eight  o’clock. 
Evangelist  Shi  and  wife  soon  had  some  refreshments  on  the  table. 
Mrs.  Shi  was  the  first  convert  at  this  village.  Soon  after  her  bap- 
tism she  determined  to  build  a chapel.  Her  neighbors  heard  of 
her  purpose  and  came  to  her  help.  The  chapel  is  a very  neat 
building.  It  is  large  enough.  She  was  then  a widow.  Since  that 
time  she  married  Mr.  Shi.  He  was  once  a story-teller.  He  made  a 
living  by  giving  dramatic  exhibitions  of  ancient  scenes  in  Chinese 
history.  Dr.  Macklin  led  him  to  Christ  and  urged  him  to  cut  loose 
from  all  foreigners  and  earn  his  support  among  his  own  people.  In 
so  doing  he  would  convince  the  Chinese  that  he  did  not  make  a con- 
fession of  faith  in  Christ  in  order  that  he  might  eat  the  church’s 
rice.  He  preaches  in  this  chapel  every  day  when  he  is  at  home. 
His  work  is  known  as  far  north  as  Peking.  Travelers  spend  the 
night  in  the  village.  They  hear  the  bell  and  stroll  in  to  listen  to 
the  message.  They  hear  an  eloquent  address  from  a Chinese.  They 
carry  a report  of  the  place  and  the  work  to  their  homes.  Early 
the  next  morning  we  went  out  to  apprise  the  people  that  there 
would  be  a service  in  the  chapel  at  eleven  o’clock.  We  called  on 
a man  of  some  local  celebrity.  Once  he  was  a terror  to  the  com- 
munity. He  was  so  harsh  and  cruel  that  two  wives  committed 
suicide.  He  felt  the  disgrace  so  keenly  that  he  made  up  his  mind 
to  dispose  of  his  property,  cut  off  his  tail,  enter  a monastery,  and 
become  a Buddhist  monk.  While  in  the  village  he  heard  the  Gos- 


MEMORIAL  HOSPITAL  IX  NANKIN,  CHINA. 


HONG-KONG. 


CHU  CHEO  AND  LU  EOH 


145 


pel,  became  interested  in  it,  and  soon  made  the  good  confession. 
Now  he  is  an  earnest  Christian.  He  has  thirty  tenants  on  his  land. 
His  desire  is  to  lead  them  all  to  Christ.  He  told  us  he  had  been  a 
great  sinner,  and  had  experienced  a great  deliverance.  He  had 
been  forgiven  much,  and  he  loves  much.  I spoke  and  Mr.  Hunt 
interpreted  me.  Mr.  Saw  spoke  on  the  same  theme  and  applied 
the  truth  to  the  hearts  and  consciences  of  all  present.  After  the 
service  we  were  invited  by  Mr.  Shi  to  sit  down  to  dinner.  Several 
neighbors  were  also  invited.  It  took  longer  to  get  the  guests  seated 
than  to  eat  the  dinner.  At  one  time  I feared  that  they  would  never 
sit  down.  Each  one  wanted  the  lowest  place.  Each  one  sought  to 
press  the  other  into  the  seat  of  honor.  At  the  table  each  one 
selected  the  choicest  morsels,  and,  with  his  own  chopsticks,  placed 
them  in  the  bowl  of  his  neighbor.  This  was  all  in  accordance  with 
Chinese  etiquette.  In  some  circles  outside  of  China,  each  one 
wants  the  highest  seat  and  desires  to  have  the  choicest  morsels  on 
his  own  plate. 

• Dinner  being  over,  we  returned  to  Chu  Cheo.  The  man  from 
whom  the  mission  rented  the  buildings  in  which  the  missionaries, 
live  and  work  had  invited  us,  on  our  arrival,  to  a feast  in  his  house 
that  evening.  When  the  food  was  ready  to  be  served,  he  came  to 
call  us.  This  man  is  a Confucianist.  He  had  been  a Taiping  rebel. 
He  was  the  only  man  in  Chu  Cheo  that  was  willing  to  help  our  peo- 
ple when  they  first  went  to  that  place.  The  rest  of  the  citizens 
would  not  rent  their  property,  and  wanted  to  chase  them  away. 
This  man  stood  by  them  from  the  first  day  until  now.  He  was 
imprisoned  for  his  course.  Because  he  was  a police  official  and  a 
man  of  influence,  he  was  kept  in  confinement  only  a few  weeks. 
He  is  now  eighty  years  old.  He  has  his  coffin  in  his  house  ready. 
He  shows  it  to  his  friends,  and  tells  them  proudly  that  it  is  a pres- 
ent from  his  sons.  This  is  not  an  unusual  thing  in  China.  There 
is  no  way  in  which  children  can  better  show  their  love  and  regard 
for  their  parents  than  in  presenting  them  with  a suitable  coffin. 
The  feast  was  fit  for  a king.  The  viands  were  the  best  the  market 
afforded.  The  cooking  and  the  service  were  admirable.  One  thing 
was  lacking.  There  were  no  ladies  present.  This,  too,  was  in  ac- 
cordance with  Chinese  notions  of  propriety.  The  women  of  the 
mission  were  not  invited.  The  women  of  the  household  ate  their 
food  in  their  own  apartments.  After  the  feast  we  had  a service  in 
the  chapel. 

We  spent  the  next  forenoon  with  the  workers,  and  saw 

and  heard  much  of  the  work.  The  fame  thereof  has  gone 
10 


146 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


out  through  that  whole  region.  People  come  from  distant  towns 
and  villages  for  medicine  for  their  diseases.  We  learned  some 
things  of  special  interest.  At  first  the  workers  could  not  go 
out  on  the  streets,  or  go  out  on  a preaching  tour  lest  some 
of  “the  baser  sort”  should  attempt  to  fire  their  home.  They 
have  no  fear  on  that  score  now.  The  presence  of  a woman  is 
a great  help.  Men  can  come  and  go  like  birds  of  passage ; women 
come  to  make  a home.  The  same  is  true  of  a child.  The  people 
gathered  to  see  Mabel  Hunt.  They  had  seen  “men  devils”  and 
“women  devils,”  but  they  had  never  seen  a “baby  devil.”  Her 
parents  were  urged  not  to  go  to  Chu  Cheo.  Mabel  was  a better 
protection  than  a battery  of  artillery.  The  Chinese  said,  “The 
gods  must  love  these  people,  or  they  would  not  give  them  such  a 
beautiful  child.”  The  officials  heard  of  Mabel’s  birthday  and  made 
a great  feast  in  honor  of  the  occasion.  Mr.  Hunt  talked  to  the 
magistrate  and  his  assistants  about  the  Christian  religion.  Mrs. 
Hunt  presented  the  great  lady  with  a copy  of  the  New  Testament. 
A house  is  now  in  course  of  erection.  The  ground  was  secured  on  a 
promise  that  it  should  be  only  one  story  high.  The  Confucian 
temple  near  by  is  a low  building.  It  must  not  be  overshadowed. 

After  dinner  we  started  for  Lu  Hoh.  We  spent  the  night  in  an 
inn  about  one-third  of  the  way.  It  was  market-day  and  the  village 
was  thronged.  We  had  some  difficulty  in  finding  a place  to  sleep. 
We  were  packed  into  a small  storeroom.  Men  and  donkeys  filled 
all  the  space  without.  At  one  table  some  men  gambled  all  night. 
They  began  before  our  arrival,  and  continued  after  our  departure. 
In  the  evening  we  visited  a tea-house  and  had  a service.  The  vil- 
lagers crowded  about  us  to  see  and  hear.  They  climbed  upon  the 
tables  and  wherever  there  was  a place  to  stand.  Mothers  held  up 
their  babes  that  they  might  catch  a glimpse  of  us.  They  listened 
attentively  to  what  we  had  to  say.  On  the  way  back  we  went  to  an 
opium  den.  We  saw  twenty  smoking.  It  was  a pathetic  sight. 
We  reached  Lu  Hoh  the  next  afternoon.  This  is  a solid  business 
town.  Many  Mohammedans  live  here.  They  are  bigoted  and  self- 
satisfied.  They  say  they  worship  the  true  God,  and  are  not  idola- 
tors.  They  refrain  from  pork  and  from  things  strangled.  We  went 
out  on  the  streets  and  visited  several  temples  and  stores.  In  the 
evening  the  chapel  filled.  Mr.  Saw,  Mr.  Hearnden  and  I spoke. 
We  prayed  and  sang  as  well.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saw  did  much  good 
work  here  and  made  many  friends.  Several  have  told  him  that 
they  believe,  and  will  soon  make  the  good  confession.  When  they 
left  on  their  furlough  the  enemies  of  the  truth  said  that  his  Empe- 
ror had  taken  away  his  button.  When  Mr.  Arnold  left  for  Wuhu, 


CUU  CHEO  AND  LU  HOH 


147 


some  time  before,  they  said  that  his  Emperor  was  going  to  take  his 
head  off.  They  look  upon  missionaries  as  political  agents  of  some 
foreign  power.  Mr.  Saw  is  never  weary  in  well  doing.  He  preaches 
wherever  there  is  a man  to  hear.  He  is  a delightful  traveling 
companion. 

The  next  day  Mr.  Saw  and  I left  for  Nankin.  Mr.  Hearnden 
returned  to  Chu  Cheo.  We  reached  the  Drum  Tower  that,  evening. 
We  were  gone  a week  on  this  tour.  That  day  we  stopped  at  a tea- 
house for  breakfast.  At  a table  near  us  was  a school-teacher.  He 
gravely  assured  us  that  the  Japanese  were  whipped  in  the  war,  and 
all  present  confirmed  his  assertion.  He  told  us  that  the  Black 
Flags  wrere  bound  to  succeed  in  Formosa.  They  had  already  sur- 
rendered. To  him  all  foreigners  are  alike.  He  understands  the 
Chinese  characters  and  classics,  but  nothing  else.  He  knows  no 
more  than  an  infant  of  general  history,  or  mathematics,  or  philoso- 
phy, or  science.  He  w7ears  immense  goggles  to  make  him  look  wise 
and  dignified.  One  of  this  class  explained  to  one  of  our  men  the 
cause  of  night:  “The  people  live  inside  the  earth.  The  darkness 

is  caused  by  the  two  hemispheres  coming  together  and  shutting  out 
the  sunlight.”  We  asked  him  about  sin.  He  indignantly  denied 
that  Chinese  sin.  That  is  for  outside  barbarians.  Mr.  Saw  quoted 
Confucius  against  him.  He  said  Confucius  lied  to  teach  his  follow- 
ers a truth.  On  the  way  we  wanted  to  take  the  picture  of  a buffalo 
plowing.  The  men  in  the  field  objected.  A gatling  gun  wrould  not 
have  scared  them  more  than  a kodak.  They  were  afraid  we  might 
take  something  out  of  them  or  put  something  into  them.  On 
almost  every  farm  were  shrines  to  the  earth-god.  We  must  have 
seen  thousands  of  these  that  week. 

The  ignorance  and  poverty  of  the  people  are  indescribable. 
These  two  evils  are  caused  by  bad  government.  Give  the  Chinese 
the  Gospel  and  free  schools,  good  roads,  railways,  convenient  mar- 
kets, modern  farming  implements,  flouring  mills,  and  they  will  be 
one  of  the  greatest  nations  on  the  globe.  They  have  vast  resources, 
but  they  are  not  developed.  They  are  taxed  and  oppressed  to  sup- 
port a horde  of  corrupt  officials.  The  mandarins  are  greedy  cor- 
morants. Once  a woman  went  to  a Chinese  sage  and  told  him  that 
her  husband  and  tw7o  sons  had  been  devoured  by  tigers.  He  asked 
her  why  she  did  not  go  to  some  other  place.  She  said  that,  though 
the  tigers  were  numerous,  the  government  was  not  oppressive.  He 
turned  to  his  hearers  and  emphasized  the  thought  that  bad  govern- 
ment is  woi’se  than  tigers.  Give  China  a good  government  and  her 
peace  will  be  as  a river,  and  her  righteousness  as  the  waves  of 
the  sea. 


XXIII. 


HANKOW,  WUHU,  NANKIN  AND  SHANGHAI. 

In  order  to  see  the  work  in  different  parts  of  China,  I went  up 
the  Yangtsze  as  far  as  Hankow.  This  city  is  at  the  junction  of  the 
Han  and  Yangtsze,  and  is  six  hundred  miles  from  the  coast. 
Directly  across  the  Yangtsze  is  Wuchang,  while  across  the  Han  is 
Hanyang.  These  three  cities  have  a combined  population  of  nearly 
two  millions.  Hankow  is  a Treaty  Port  and  .a  great  center  for 
trade.  The  bulk  of  tea  exported  is  shipped  from  this  point. 
Wuchang  is  the  seat  of  the  provincial  government.  Here  the  lit- 
erary and  military  examinations  are  held.  Hanyang  is  the  seat  of 
the  iron  industry.  Here  cannon,  steel  rails  and  railway  supplies  of 
all  kinds  are  produced.  Millions  of  dollars  have  been  invested  in 
this  plant.  These  cities  are  annually  visited  by  thousands  of 
officials,  students,  traders,  mechanics  and  laborers,  and  so  are 
brought  within  the  reach  of  the  Gospel.  At  the  great  examina- 
tions systematic  efforts  are  made  to  reach  every  one  of  the  twenty 
or  thirty  thousand  who  come  to  compete  for  degrees.  Many  of 
these  carry  some  of  the  seeds  of  truth  to  their  homes.  It  is  plain 
that  this  is  one  of  the  most  promising  places  for  missionary  enter- 
prise in  China. 

Hankow  is  the  home  of  a number  of  men  of  ability  and  experi- 
ence. The  first  one  I met  was  Mr.  Arnold  Foster,  a graduate  of 
Cambridge.  Though  he  works  in  connection  with  the  London 
Society,  he  is  entirely  self-supporting.  He  has  been  in  China 
twenty-four  years.  He  teaches  and  preaches  every  day.  He  and 
his  accomplished  wife  have  a school  for  Eurasian  girls  in  their  own 
home.  The  girls  are  members  of  the  family,  and  are  treated  in  all 
respects  as  if  they  were  their  own  children.  They  are  quick  to 
learn  and  easily  managed.  This  school  is  a source  of  usefulness 
and  joy.  Mr.  Foster  said:  “People  say  China  does  not  move,  but 

China  does  move.  Quite  true,  she  does  not  move  as  Western 
nations  do,  but  she  does  move,  nevertheless.”  He  has  seen  great 
changes  in  his  own  time.  He  has  no  fear  and  no  doubt  as  to  the 
final  issue  of  the  conflict  between  light  and  darkness.  Dr.  Griffith 

John  works  in  connection  with  the  same  Society.  He  has  been  in 

148 


HANKOW,  WUHU,  NANKIN  AND  SHANGHAI 


149 


the  field  over  forty  years.  Dr.  John  is  one  of  the  great  men  of  the 
age.  He  is  known  and  honored  by  every  missionary  in  the  Empire. 
He  has  translated  the  New  Testament,  and  published  it  with 
explanatory  notes.  His  tracts  have  been  sold  by  the  million.  In 
addition  to  his  literary  work  he  preaches  every  day.  He  has  bap- 
tized three  thousand.  In  a recent  address  Dr.  John  said  he  was 
full  of  confidence  with  respect  to  the  future.  He  expected  to  see 
great  things,  and  a forward  movement,  as  a result  of  this  fresh 
upheaval  in  China.  It  would  doubtless  open  the  country  in  a won- 
derful way,  and,  better  still,  would  open  the  eyes  and  hearts  of  the 
people.  “The  missionary  cause  was  making  rapid  progress.  It 
had  taken  the  first  thirty-five  years  of  Protestant  missions  in  China 
to  build  up  a church  of  six  members,  while  the  last  thirty-five  years 
had  built  up  a church  of  about  60,000  members.  Let  us  all  take 
courage  and  go  forward.” 

J.  A.  Ingle  represents  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  of 
America.  He  is  from  Maryland;  Mrs.  Ingle  is  from  South  Caro- 
lina. They  could  not  have  been  kinder  and  more  helpful  if  they 
had  been  life-long  acquaintances  and  friends.  Mr.  Ingle  gave  some 
account  of  the  methods  of  work  adopted  and  the  results.  The 
Society  which  he  represents  has  a school  for  boys  and  a hospital  in 
Hankow,  and  a college  and  a hospital  in  Wuchang.  He  has  no 
street  chapel  where  the  Gospel  is  preached  to  promiscuous  audi- 
ences. Instead,  he  has  a guest  room.  A sign  at  the  door  invites 
all  to  enter  who  wish  to  inquire  concerning  the  Christian  religion. 
Tea  and  the  water-pipe  are  served  in  accordance  with  Chinese 
notions  of  hospitality.  Speaking  of  the  converts,  Mr.  Ingle  said 
that  he  found  more  comfort  in  the  First  Epistle  to  the  Corinthians 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  Bible.  Paul  wrote  to  his  converts 
that  they  were  washed,  and  sanctified,  and  justified  in  the  name  of 
the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  in  the  Spirit  of  our  God;  but  they  were 
not  just  men  made  perfect.  Who  is  there  in  the  home  land  that 
has  not  felt  the  same?  Converts  in  every  age  and  in  every  field  are 
substantially  the  same.  The  Protestant  Episcopal  Society  has 
noble  buildings.  The  chapels,  colleges,  hospitals,  schools  and 
homes  are  convenient  and  beautiful.  No  money  is  spared.  These 
buildings  are  excelled  by  those  of  the  Roman  Catholics  only. 

David  Hill  is  a man  of  private  fortune,  laboring  in  connection 
with  the  English  Wesleyan  Society.  He  has  been  on  the  field 
thirty  years.  He  and  his  brother  support  a dozen  laymen  in  China. 
Mr.  Hill  dresses  like  a native,  and  lives  on  five  cents  a day.  He 
has  a tough  constitution,  else  he  would  have  died  long  ago.  Few 


150 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


men  can  live  as  he  has  lived.  He  is  superintendent  of  the  work  in 
and  about  Hankow.  He  makes  long  preaching  tours  into  the  coun- 
try. Speaking  of  methods,  he  said:  “After  all,  it  is  the  man, 

rather  than  the  method.  Dr.  John  adopts  one  method,  and  makes 
a brilliant  success.  Dr.  Nevius  adopts  a different  method,  and  his 
success  is  equally  great.”  The  Wesleyan  Society  has  a high  school 
in  Wuchang.  The  boys  pay  fees  and  pay  for  their  food.  These 
boys  are  under  religious  instruction  every  day.  English  is  taught 
as  a pacificatory  measure.  The  Society  has  a hospital  as  well. 
The  evangelistic,  the  educational,  and  the  medical  melt  and  blend 
into  one  another,  and  together  present  a complete  revelation  of  the 
fullness,  the  symmetry  and  the  perfection  of  the  redemption  that  is 
in  Christ.  Year  by  year  Mr.  Hill’s  conviction  that  the  work  is  to 
go  on  and  prevail  is  strengthened. 

At  the  headquarters  of  the  American  Baptists  we  met  Dr. 
Adams.  He  has  been  in  China  twenty  years,  and  in  Hankow  two. 
He  gave  one  incident  showing  how  God  overrules  events  to  the  fur- 
therance of  the  Gospel.  Years  ago,  in  another  province,  the  mem- 
bers of  one  of  the  churches  under  his  care  were  urged  to  visit  a 
neighboring  village  and  preach.  The  villagers  gambled  and  drank, 
and  did  not  want  them  or  their  message.  They  beat  the  believers 
and  drove  them  away.  The  more  they  were  beaten  and  threatened, 
the  more  they  returned  and  preached.  The  villagers  killed  their 
cattle  and  poisoned  their  wells.  These  things  did  not  stop  them. 
Then  they  threatened  to  kill  them  and  burn  their  property.  They 
got  an  astrologer  to  fix  upon  a lucky  time.  Hearing  of  their  pur- 
pose, Mr.  Adams  went  to  the  magistrate  and  asked  him  for  protec- 
tion. He  said:  “Let  them  alone;  there  are  rich  men  in  that  vil- 

lage, and  I will  make  them  pay  dearly  for  any  riot.”  Mr.  Adams 
told  him  that  that  was  not  what  he  wanted;  he  wanted  protection 
for  the  innocent  whose  lives  and  goods  were  in  peril.  The  magis- 
trate informed  him  that  it  was  his  duty  to  punish  crime,  not  to  pre- 
vent it.  The  villagers  heard  that  the  magistrate  would  not  inter- 
fere, and  proceeded  with  their  preparation.  The  Christians  put 
their  cattle  in  one  house  and  gathered  in  another  for  prayer  and 
praise.  Other  churches  hearing  of  their  danger  united  in  prayer  on 
their  behalf.  Mr.  Adams  wanted  to  stay  with  them  and  share  their 
fate.  The  Christians  would  not  hear  to  this.  They  said  his  pres- 
ence would  only  aggravate  the  villagers.  The  assailants  gathered 
for  a night  attack.  They  marched  with  lanterns  and  gongs  and 
shouting.  The  ruffians  of  other  villages  joined  the  procession. 
Beaching  the  village  they  found  the  houses  vacant,  and  supposed 


HANKOW,  WUHU,  NANKIN  AND  SHANGHAI 


151 


that  the  people  had  fled.  Just  then  they  heard  them  singing,  and 
drew  near  to  listen.  At  the  close  of  a song  an  aged  man  lifted  up 
his  voice  in  prayer.  As  they  listened,  a furious  thunderstorm 
broke  upon  them,  and  they  were  scattered  as  chaff  before  the 
whirlwind.  They  ran  in  all  directions.  Some  fell  into  creeks  and 
ponds  and  were  drowned.  When  they  went  to  the  astrologer  he 
said:  “ This  fellow  Adams  has  lightnings  bottled  up,  and  can  let 

them  go  when  he  pleases.”  He  advised  them  to  go  by  day  the  next 
time.  They  planned  another  attack  and  started.  On  the  way  they 
sat  down  to  arrange  the  division  of  the  spoils.  One  wanted  a cer- 
tain cow.  His  brother  wanted  the  same  animal.  Each  caught  the 
other  by  the  tail,  and  a general  fight  began.  One  man  was  killed. 
One  had  his  head  and  another  his  leg  broken.  When  the  fight  was 
over  no  one  cared  to  go  on  with  the  attack  on  the  believers.  The 
magistrate  cut  off  several  heads,  and  made  others  pay  fines  of  sev- 
eral thousand  dollars.  The  villagers  said:  “It  is  no  use  to  fight 

against  these  people.”  The  Christians  rented  a house  in  that  vil- 
lage, and  soon  a church  was  organized. 

John  Archibald  is  the  agent  of  the  National  Bible  Society  of 
Scotland  in  Hankow.  In  the  eighteen  years  he  has  been  in  China 
he  has  traveled  all  over  the  Empire.  He  was  the  first  foreigner  to 
visit  many  places  where  now  there  are  flourishing  churches.  Some- 
times he  has  been  guarded  by  five  hundred  soldiers.  The  society 
whose  agent  he  is  publishes  about  three  hundred  thousand  copies 
of  the  Scriptures  annually.  He  told  us  that  there  are  three  stages 
in  Bible  work.  First,  all  want  it.  Second,  no  one  wants  it. 
Third,  a few  want  it.  This  last  stage  is  the  hopeful  one.  Mr. 
Archibald  showed  us  some  of  the  famous  Hunan  pictures.  The 
artist  represents  Christ  as  a pig.  The  Romans  represented  him  as 
an  ass.  He  told  us  that  the  Yangtsze  Valley  is  the  most  trying 
place  on  the  globe.  If  one  gets  sick  he  must  get  out  at  once,  other- 
wise he  will  die.  The  mercury  stands  at  ninety-eight  or  one  hun- 
dred degrees  during  the  day.  At  night  it  falls  a degree  or  two. 
Mosquitoes  get  too  languid  to  bite.  People  must  sleep  under 
punkahs  or  not  sleep  at  all.  New  arrivals  will  not  take  advice. 
They  know  more  than  the  veterans.  They  propose  to  show  them  a 
more  excellent  way.  As  a result,  many  get  sick  and  go  home  or 
die.  He  says  that  it  does  not  pay  to  live  below  a certain  standard. 
To  do  so  is  almost  sure  to  impair  health,  to  diminish  usefulness 
and  to  shorten  life.  He  spoke  of  some  who  live  on  native  food 
and  go  mooning  about  and  accomplish  nothing.  Speaking  of  the 
riots,  he  told  of  one  man  who  disregarded  his  principles  and  ran 


152 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


away.  When  called  to  account,  he  said  he  would  rather  ignore  his 
principles  one  day  than  be  dead  all  the  rest  of  his  life.  John 
Archibald  is  as  genial  a spirit  as  ever  left  Scotland.  A stranger  in 
Hankow  could  not  fall  into  better  hands.  He  and  his  good  wife 
open  their  hearts  and  their  home.  The  only  complaint  they  make 
is  that  their  visitor  does  not  stay  long  enough. 

Dropping  down  from  Hankow  we  stopped  at  Wuhu.  Though  it 
was  near  midnight,  T.  J.  Arnold  was  waiting  for  me,  and  took  me 
to  the  home  of  C.  E.  Molland.  As  the  day  had  been  unusually  cold 
and  stormy,  the  warm  welcome  and  bright  fire  were  doubly  pleas- 
ant. A union  service  had  been  arrauged  for  Sunday  morning.  All 
the  missions  in  the  city  were  l’epresented.  The  room  was  full. 
The  audience  was  orderly  and  attentive.  Mr.  Molland  acted  as  my 
interpreter.  In  the  afternoon  there  was  an  English  service  in  the 
Home  of  the  International  Missionary  Alliance.  The  gunboats  and 
the  Customs  were  represented.  The  Alliance  has  ninety  workei’s 
in  China,  and  sixteen  more  on  the  way.  Of  these  forty-five  are 
beyond  the  Great  Wall  in  Mongolia.  The  missionaries  are 
from  Sweden,  Norway,  England  and  America.  D.  W.  Le  Lacheur 
is  the  superintendent  of  the  work  in  the  Empire.  This  Home  is 
also  a school.  The  new  workers  spend  six  months  or  more  here 
on  the  language.  At  night  there  was  another  service  in  English. 
Dr.  Jellison,  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Hospital,  dropped  in  on 
his  way  home,  and  spent  a pleasant  hour  with  us.  Wuhu  is  a 
walled  city  and  an  open  port.  It  has  a population  of  one  hundred 
thousand. 

Leaving  Wuhu  in  company  with  Messrs.  Molland  and  Arnold,  I 
returned  to  Nankin  for  a conference  with  all  the  missionaries. 
James  Ware  came  from  Shanghai  and  E.  P.  Hearnden  came  over 
from  Chu  Cheo.  A whole  day  was  devoted  to  this  conference. 
Many  important  facts  were  brought  out  bearing  upon  the  health  of 
the  workers,  the  needs  of  the  work,  and  the  best  disposition  of  the 
force.  Dr.  Macklin  pointed  out  the  danger  of  sunstroke,  the  dan- 
ger of  attempting  too  much  and  neglecting  proper  exercise,  and  the 
need  of  good  food.  The  climate  is  hostile  to  foreigners.  Some 
are  better  in  China  than  at  home.  This  is  not  true  of  many. 
Houses  are  needed  for  several  families.  More  workers  are  needed 
to  enter  the  doors  which  God  is  opening.  As  we  had  time,  we  vis- 
ited the  other  missions  in  Nankin.  Dr.  Beebe  took  us  through  the 
hospital  under  his  direction.  President  Ferguson  took  us  through 
the  buildings  of  the  Nankin  University.  A Pennsylvania  lumber 
dealer  paid  for  one  building.  It  is  his  ambition  to  spend  a million 


Miss  Dr.  Daisy  Macklin,  Nankin. 

W.  P.  Bentley  and  Family,  Shanghai,  China. 


HANKOW,  WUHU,  NANKIN  AND  SHANGHAI 


153 


dollars  in  support  of  Foreign  Missions.  Another  building  was 
erected  by  the  family  of  Philander  Smith.  This  family  paid  for 
Dr.  Beebe’s  Hospital,  and  for  another  building  in  Japan.  We 
called  at  the  Presbyterian  and  at  the  Friends’  Mission.  We  saw  all 
the  workers  and  some  of  their  work.  The  evening  before  I left 
Nankin  the  ladies  arranged  for  a reception.  All  the  missionaries  in 
the  city  were  present.  Brief  addresses  were  made  by  Mr.  Williams, 
Dr.  Beebe  and  Mr.  Houston.  After  the  addresses,  refreshments 
were  served.  It  was  like  a family  gathering.  All  agreed  that  it 
was  one  of  the  most  agreeable  evenings  ever  spent  in  Nankin.  The 
next  morning  I bade  farewell  and  started  for  Shanghai.  Most  of 
the  workers  accompanied  me  to  the  ship.  It  was  a great  privilege 
to  spend  a few  days  in  the  homes  and  to  look  into  the  hearts  and 
study  the  methods  of  these  saintly  workers.  It  would  be  a good 
thing  if  some  one  could  come  out  every  few  years.  It  would  do 
one’s  own  heart  good  for  many  a day  to  see  the  joy  of  the  mission- 
aries. His  coming  will  give  a new  impulse  to  the  work  and  will 
bless  his  own  soul.  I left  Nankin  with  a high  opinion  of  the  wis- 
dom, energy  and  consecration  of  the  workers.  The  Lord’s  cause 
cannot  fail  in  such  hands. 

In  Shanghai  I met  Mr.  Ferguson, of  Tibet.  He  came  from  Tibet 
to  Hankow,  a distance  of  fifteen  hundred  miles,  on  horseback.  He 
asked  for  an  escort  while  traveling  through  the  province  where  the 
Mohammedans  are  now  in  rebellion.  The  authorities  could  give 
him  no  escort.  They  told  him  he  could  not  go.  He  said  he  must 
go.  For  six  days  he  had  only  one  meal.  Some  soldiers  called  his 
companion  a Foreign  Devil.  He  dismounted  and  seized  one  of  them 
by  the  tail.  The  others  fled  like  sheep.  Mr.  Ferguson  is  a Cana- 
dian by  birth.  He  is  a member  of  the  church  in  Muncie,  Ind.,  for 
which  H.  T.  Buff  preaches.  He  is  supported  by  some  friends  in 
Canada  and  in  the  United  States.  From  Shanghai  I go  to  Peking. 
Mr.  Williams  goes  with  me  as  interpreter  and  guide.  This  trip 
reminds  me  of  the  time  when  we  were  students  together  in  old 
Bethany’s  classic  halls. 


XXIV. 


PEKING  AND  THE  GREAT  WALL  AND  RETURN. 

We  took  ship  at  Shanghai  for  Tientsin.  This  is  the  port  of 
Peking.  There  were  four  missionary  families  on  board.  Some 
had  been  home  and  were  returning,  others  were  coming  out  for  the 
first  time.  The  rules  say  that  passengers  are  uot  allowed  to  go 
bare  backed,  or  to  dress  their  hair,  or  smoke  opium,  or  spit  on  the 
floor,  or  talk  loudly  in  the  salon.  With  such  specific  instructions  it 
need  not  surprise  any  one  that  we  behaved  fairly  well.  Our  course 
was  through  the  Yellow  Sea,  the  Gulf  of  Pechele  and  the  Peiho. 
We  passed  between  the  Promontory  of  Shantung  and  Korea.  The 
province  of  Shantung  was  the  home  of  Confucius  and  Mencius. 
These  men,  more  than  any  others,  have  shaped  the  Chinese  char- 
acter. In  every  city  in  the  Empire  there  is  a Confucian  temple.  In 
every  school  there  is  a tablet  to  Confucius  before  which  the  pupils 
bow  on  entering.  One  of  their  poets  has  said : 

“Confucius  ! Confucius  ! how  great  is  Confucius  ! 

Before  Confucius  there  never  was  a Confucius  ! 

Since  Confucius  there  never  has  been  a Confucius  ! 

Confucius  ! Confucius  ! how  great  is  Confucius  1” 

Shantung  is  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  successful  work  in 
China.  Here  Drs.  Nevius  and  Corbett  and  Timothy  Richard  and 
others  labored  for  years.  Here  new  methods  were  adopted.  The 
converts  were  encouraged  to  support  themselves  and  not  to  look 
abroad  for  any  financial  aid.  Some  of  these  converts  migrated  to 
Shanse.  They  called  the  village  they  built  the  Gospel  Village.  It 
was  a time  of  famine.  It  was  difficult  to  put  up  houses  for  them- 
selves. Remembering  the  teaching  they  received,  they  built  a 
chapel  and  held  services.  We  passed  Port  Arthur  and  Wei-hai- 
wei.  These  places  became  famous  in  the  war  with  Japan.  We 
passed  the  Taku  forts  at  the  mouth  of  the  Peiho.  These  were 
captured  by  the  British  and  French  in  the  second  Opium  War.  As 
the  water  on  the  bar  was  low  we  left  the  ship  and  went  by  train  to 
Tientsin.  This  was  a thrilling  experience.  Think  of  it!  A train 
in  China!  After  riding  on  donkeys  and  mules  and  wheelbarrows, 
it  was  refreshing  to  buy  a ticket  and  board  a train.  When  the 

154 


PEKING  AND  TEE  GREAT  WALL  AND  RETURN 


155 


engine  rolled  up  to  the  station  I took  off  my  hat.  The  train  is 
European.  The  filth  and  stenches  are  indigenous. 

We  reached  our  hotel  after  dark.  Mr.  Stanley,  of  the  Amer- 
ican Board,  helped  us  to  engage  a cart  to  take  us  on  in  the  morn- 
ing. We  were  off  at  daylight.  The  cart  was  drawn  by  two  mules, 
driven  tandem.  The  body  of  the  cart  was  about  two  feet  wide  and 
four  feet  long,  and  was  covered  with  blue  cloth.  One  sat  inside, 
the  other  sat  on  the  shafts.  There  were  no  springs  to  break 
the  jolting.  The  roads  were  rough  and  full  of  holes.  They 
became  worse  as  we  drew  near  to  the  capital.  Peking  is  eighty 
miles  distant.  We  were  told  that  it  would  take  two  and  a half 
days  to  make  the  trip.  Robbers  abound,  and  it  is  perilous  to 
travel  after  dark  or  before  day.  When  we  were  beyond  the  wall  of 
Tientsin,  Mr.  Williams  told  the  driver  he  would  give  him  a dollar 
extra  if  he  would  reach  Peking  in  two  days.  The  effect  was 
magical.  The  mules  and  cai’t  felt  the  inspiration.  We  passed 
every  vehicle  in  sight.  The  first  day  we  made  more  than  half  the 
distance.  A little  after  midnight  the  driver  was  knocking  at 
our  door  and  telling  us  that  it  was  time  to  start.  We  growled 
and  protested,  but  it  was  of  no  use.  All  fear  of  robbers  had  van- 
ished. At  once  we  left  the  inn.  Bad  as  the  roads  were,  we 
sped  on.  We  made  fifteen  miles  before  breakfast.  A little  after 
noon  we  saw  the  walls  of  Peking.  By  three  o’clock  we  were  at  our 
jouimey’s  end.  The  driver  was  as  proud  as  if  he  had  won  a battle. 

Dr.  Lowry  met  us  aud  took  us  to  his  own  home.  He  and  his 
family  did  all  in  their  power  to  make  our  visit  enjoyable.  They 
are  Ohio  people,  and  represent  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church. 
Dr.  Lowry  is  President  of  the  Peking  University.  One  son  has 
charge  of  the  hospital  and  dispensary.  Another  is  Secretary  of 
the  American  Legation.  We  visited  the  University.  In  the 
literary  department  there  are  one  hundred  and  forty  students. 
Most  of  these  are  believers.  The  Girls’  School  has  nearly  as  many 
enrolled.  The  Medical  School  is  well  attended.  The  first  morning 
at  chapel  the  boys  sang,  “King  Jesus,  reign  for  evermore.” 
That  was  in  sight  of  the  Emperor’s  palace.  This  mission  has  a 
strong  staff.  The  workers  go  out  into  the  towns  aud  villages 
for  hundreds  of  miles.  The  work  was  opened  in  1868.  Last  year 
the  conversions  numbered  eleven  hundred.  One  of  the  most  inter- 
esting events  on  Sunday  was  the  Ragged  Sunday  School.  There 
were  four  hundred  present.  Dr.  Lowry  is  superintendent.  The 
teaching  is  done  by  the  advanced  students  in  the  university.  It 
was  a treat  to  hear  them  sing.  Their  singing  was  wholly  unlike 


15C 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


the  caterwauling  that  is  called  music  in  China.  This  school 
has  changed  the  character  of  the  community.  Instead  of  calling 
the  missionaries  “foreign  devils,”  they  ask  when  Sunday  and 
Christmas  are  coming.  At  the  union  meeting  Mr.  Williams  and 
I were  asked  to  conduct  the  services. 

We  met  Timothy  Richard.  He  is  one  of  the  noted  men  in 
China.  He  and  Dr.  Wherry  presented  a memorial  to  the  throne 
the  day  before  our  arrival.  They  want  the  Emperor  and  his 
advisers  to  understand  the  aims  and  motives  of  the  missionaries. 
They  want  to  convince  them  that  the  missionaries  are  good  men, 
and  that  the  evil  reports  published  about  them  are  false.  They 
ask  that  Christianity  be  placed  upon  the  same  plane  as  other 
faiths.  The  officials  who  are  anti-foreign  ai’e  so  either  on  account 
of  ignorance,  or  because  they  foresee  that  the  triumph  of  the  Gos- 
pel means  an  era  of  honesty  and  efficiency,  and  an  end  of  squeezing 
and  robbery  and  oppression.  Mr.  Richard  is  seeking  to  open 
the  eyes  of  the  rulers  of  China.  He  is  better  qualified  for  this 
work  than  any  other  man  in  the  Empire.  He  has  been  decorated 
by  the  Emperor  for  his  services  in  the  time  of  famine.  He  is 
the  personal  friend  of  several  of  the  highest  ministers.  The 
Emperor  is  reading  his  translation  of  McKenzie’s  “ History  of  the 
Nineteenth  Century.”  The  Prime  Minister  asked  him  to  point 
out  the  reforms  which  are  needed.  He  has  been  assured  by  several 
members  of  the  Emperor’s  Council  that  they  are  in  fullest  sym- 
pathy with  him.  A club  of  young  men  has  been  formed.  They 
are  pledged  to  seek  reforms.  They  publish  a paper,  and  hope 
to  reach  every  official  in  China.  An  amusing  thing  occuiTed  while 
the  memorial  was  under  discussion.  Dr.  Wherry  and  a member  of 
the  Council  had  a lively  tilt  over  the  question  of  original  sin. 
Confucius  taught  that  men  at  birth  are  by  nature  good.  Calvin 
taught  that  they  are  totally  depraved.  Gilbert  Reid  is  engaged 
in  the' same  kind  of  work.  He  dresses  and  lives  in  Chinese  style. 
He  aims  to  reach  the  official  class  in  hope  of  being  able  to  teach 
them  the  truth.  He  visits  them  and  they  visit  him.  While  all 
do  not  receive  him,  he  says  his  success  is  ten  times  as  great  as  he 
expected.  He  reaches  new  men  every  week.  Mr.  Richard  thinks 
this  a most  interesting  period  in  Chinese  history.  The  Japanese 
war  has  revealed  a condition  of  affairs  that  surprised  and  shocked 
the  officials.  They  do  not  know  what  to  do.  They  are  willing 
to  be  taught. 

We  visited  the  workers  of  the  American  and  Pi'esbyterian 
Boards,  and  met  the  men  connected  with  the  London  Society.  We 


PEKING  AND  THE  GREAT  WALL  AND  RETURN 


157 


were  told  that  there  are  one  thousand  believers  in  Peking  and  four 
thousand  in  the  region  round  about.  Mr.  Ament  took  us  to  see  Mr. 
Murray’s  School  for  the  Blind.  The  founder  of  this  school  was 
born  near  Glasgow.  While  a lad  he  lost  his  left  arm.  He  became  a 
letter  carrier.  Part  of  every  day  he  studied  Hebrew  and  Greek. 
He  wanted  to  engage  in  some  form  of  mission  work.  He  was 
engaged  as  a colporteur  by  the  Bible  Society.  In  the  summer  he 
sold  Bibles  in  the  highlands;  in  the  winter  he  worked  among  the 
sailors  on  the  Clyde.  His  success  was  wonderful.  The  society 
wanted  a man  for  China,  and  William  Murray  was  sent.  He  has 
sold  one  hundred  thousand  copies  of  the  “Classic  of  Jesus”  in 
Chihli  and  Manchuria.  He  became  interested  in  the  blind  by  see- 
ing them  go  about  in  winter  in  Peking.  He  spent  eight  years  in 
trying  to  adapt  a system  to  the  language  of  China.  He  gathered 
in  one  or  two  and  tested  his  system.  In  two  months  one  was  able 
to  read  fluently.  Another  was  able  to  read  in  six  weeks.  It  seems 
miraculous  to  the  Chinese  that  the  blind  should  be  thus  cared  for 
and  endowed  with  what,  to  them,  are  supernatural  powers.  Some 
are  being  trained  as  evangelists  and  others  as  Bible  readers.  God’s 
promise  is  being  fulfilled:  “ I will  bring  the  blind  by  away  that 

they  have  not  known;  I will  make  darkness  light,  and  crooked 
things  straight.” 

Peking  has  a population  of  one  million  three  hundred  thousand. 
The  walls  are  high  and  in  good  repair.  There  are  two  cities,  one 
Chinese  and  the  other  Tartar.  Within  the  Tartar  City  is  the  Impe- 
rial City,  and  within  that,  the  Forbidden  City.  The  streets  are 
wide,  but  are  unpaved.  In  dry  weather  one  is  in  danger  of  being 
blinded  by  the  dust.  In  the  wet  season  one  is  in  danger  of  being 
drowned  in  the  pools  or  in  the  streams  that  rush  along  the  thor- 
oughfares. There  is  an  air  of  decay  everywhere.  It  extends  to  the 
palaces  and  temples.  Peking  is  the  filthiest  city  in  the  world. 
When  the  Son  of  Heaven  goes  out  it  is  in  a closed  chair.  The 
streets  are  hidden  from  his  sight.  If  he  would  get  out  and  walk  he 
would  see  what  a sty  his  capital  is.  On  one  of  the  streets  we  saw  a 
dead  beggar.  He  had  been  stripped  of  the  few  rags  he  wore.  No 
one  seemed  concerned.  In  the  temples  and  other  places  we  found 
the  guardians  rude  and  inhospitable.  Doors  were  closed  and  locked 
as  we  approached.  Exorbitant  fees  were  demanded  before  they 
would  be  opened.  Everywhere  else  in  China  the  priests  were  glad 
to  see  us  and  to  show  us  everything.  We  found  it  difficult  to  get 
into  the  Hanlin  Academy.  There  was  little  to  see,  but  the  gateman 
did  not  want  to  admit  us  at  all.  It  would  have  been  a pleasure  to 


158 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


see  the  Emperor,  but  he  did  not  call  or  even  send  his  card.  That 
reminds  me  of  an  incident  in  the  life  of  Pestalozzi.  He  and  sev- 
eral others  were  sent  to  see  Napoleon  on  some  educational  business. 
Napoleon  turned  them  over  to  some  of  his  subordinates.  On  his 
return  his  friend  said:  “Did  you  see  Napoleon?”  The  great 

teacher  said,  “No,  and  Napoleon  did  not  see  me.”  Perhaps  the 
Son  of  Heaven  was  busy  with  his  wife  and  numerous  sweethearts, 
or  was  trying  to  borrow  money  to  pay  the  little  bill  he  owes  Japan. 
Dr.  Lowry  took  us  to  see  the  astronomical  instruments  made  by  the 
Jesuits  in  the  seventeenth  century.  They  are  used  no  longer,  but 
they  are  worth  seeing.  These  Jesuits  were  able  men.  One  of  them 
cast  three  hundred  cannon  for  the  Emperor.  He  gave  to  each  the 
name  of  a female  saint. 

From  Peking  we  went  on  to  the  Great  Wall.  The  builder  of 
this  wall  smashed  the  feudal  system  of  China,  and  became  Emperor 
in  fact  as  well  as  in  name.  He  called  himself  “ The  First  Emperor.” 
Not  only  so,  but  he  burned  the  books  that  disproved  this  claim  and 
cut  the  throats  of  the  literati,  lest  they  should  reproduce  the  books. 
He  built  the  Great  Wall  to  protect  the  Empire  against  the  northern 
tribes.  It  was  a colossal  undertaking.  It  took  a million  of  men  ten 
years  to  complete  it.  It  is  one  thousand  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
in  length.  The  height  is  regulated  by  the  ground  over  which  it 
runs.  There  are  high  watch-towers  from  which  an  army  could  be 
seen  approaching.  These  towers  were  once  manned;  now  they  are 
deserted.  Towers  and  gates  and  wall  are  tumbling  into  ruins.  No 
repairs  are  made.  The  wall  served  its  purpose,  but  it  is  useless 
now.  The  Mongols  and  Manchus  crossed  it  and  possessed  them- 
selves of  the  Empire.  Dr.  Martin  says  that  there  is  no  man  in 
Chinese  history  so  execrated  as  the  Emperor  that  built  the  Great 
Wall.  He  is  remembered  as  the  Builder,  Burner  and  Butcher, 
rather  than  as  the  Founder  of  the  Empire.  The  scholars  charge 
him  with  seeking  to  reduce  the  people  to  ignorance  that  he  might 
govern  them  with  facility,  in  accordance  with  the  maxims  of 
Laotze — “Fill  their  bellies  and  empty  their  heads.”  The  wall  is 
forty-five  miles  distant  from  Peking.  The  road  for  most  of  the 
way  runs  over  a sandy  plain.  The  country  is  poor  and  the  popula- 
tion sparse.  In  the  hotels  we  could  get  neither  rice  nor  meat.  Had 
we  not  taken  some  food  with  us  we  should  have  fared  badly.  The 
rooms  were  cold,  and  had  no  way  of  warming  them.  The  poorer 
the  fare  the  higher  the  price.  We  paid  four  or  five  times  as  much 
for  what  we  got  as  we  would  have  had  to  pay  for  better  accommo- 
dation in  the  South.  No  matter.  The  wall  repaid  us  for  all  our 


PEKING  AND  THE  GREAT  WALL  AND  RETURN 


159 


discomfort.  It  was  a great  sight.  It  is  one  that  can  never  be  for- 
gotten. It  is  something  to  look  upon  a work  that  dates  back  two 
centuries  before  the  birth  of  Christ. 

On  the  way  back  we  saw  the  Ming  Tombs.  With  one  exception, 
all  the  Emperors  of  the  last  dynasty  were  buried  here.  The  tombs 
were  magnificent  pieces  of  work  in  their  time.  They  are  from 
three  to  five  hundred  years  old.  They  are  neglected  and  are  falling 
into  decay.  We  were  gone  three  days.  One  night  we  slept  in  a 
Methodist  chapel.  The  evangelist  in  charge  took  us  in  and  sup- 
plied our  needs.  He  would  not  accept  anything  for  his  services. 
The  Lord  grant  that  he  may  find  mercy  in  that  day. 

The  next  morning  we  were  on  our  way  to  Tientsin.  We  spent  a 
few  hours  in  Tung-cho.  The  American  Board  has  been  at  work 
here  for  thirty  years.  Dr.  Sheffield  showed  us  through  the  North 
China  College.  There  are  seventy-five  students  enrolled.  Dr. 
Sheffield  had  been  attacked  some  months  before  and  left  for  dead. 
There  were  thirty-two  wounds  in  all.  Of  these  thirteen  were  on 
his  head.  Being  a man  of  robust  constitution  and  good  health,  and 
having  good  attendance,  he  got  well.  He  can  say  with  Paul,  “I 
bear  in  my  body  the  marks  of  the  Lord  Jesus.”  Tung-cho  is  the 
point  at  which  goods  sent  up  the  Grand  Canal  are  reshipped  for 
Peking.  They  are  carried  from  this  place  on  wheelbarrows  and  on 
camels  and  on  mules.  The  wheelbarrows  frequently  have  three 
horses  or  donkeys  pulling  them  and  three  or  four  men  steadying 
them.  Great  caravans  of  camels  are  met.  These  carry  about  six 
hundred  pounds  and  make  about  three  miles  an  hour.  On  our  way 
to  the  Great  Wall  we  met  thousands  of  these  great  animals.  They 
were  carrying  tea  and  other  goods  to  Siberia  and  Mongolia  and 
coals  from  the  mines  to  Peking.  One  train  would  carry  more  than 
all  we  saw. 

From  Tung-cho  we  went  by  boat  to  Tientsin.  We  were  thirty- 
six  hours  on  the  way.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Stanley  had  invited  us  to  abide 
with  them.  No  one  could  have  wished  for  more  pleasant  entertain- 
ment. Tientsin  has  a population  of  nine  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand. It  was  here  that  the  treaty  was  framed  at  the  close  of  the 
second  war  with  England.  The  treaty  provides  for  the  protection 
of  all  persons  teaching  or  professing  Christianity.  So  long  as  they 
do  not  offend  against  the  laws  they  are  not  to  be  persecuted  or 
interfered  with.  Here  Li  Hung  Chang  built  a hospital  for  Dr. 
McKenzie.  Here  Lady  Li  established  a school  in  which  girls  should 
be  educated.  McKenzie  was  a rare  man.  His  influence  was  bound- 
less. He  was  decorated  by  the  Emperor.  He  received  the  star  of 


160 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


the  Order  of  the  Double  Dragon.  The  Viceroy  behaved  badly  after 
McKenzie’s  death.  He  built  a hospital  across  the  way  and  opened 
a medical  school.  He  demanded  that  the  money  he  had  given  for 
the  work  be  refunded.  We  visited  the  hospital.  Many  things  in  it 
reminded  us  of  the  gifted  man  under  whose  auspices  it  was  built. 
His  aspiration  could  be  expressed  in  the  following  lines: 

“O  God,  that  I could  spend  my  life  for  others, 

With  no  false  aims  of  my  own; 

That  I could  pour  my  soul  into  my  brothers, 

And  live  for  them  alone.” 

After  his  death  Dr.  Fred.  C.  Roberts  took  up  the  work.  He  was 
equally  brilliant,  and  almost  equally  distinguished.  After  six  years 
of  service  he  went  to  his  reward.  The  thought  of  his  heart  was: 

“I  ask  no  heaven  till  earth  be  Thine, 

Nor  glory  crown  while  work  of  mine 
Remaineth  here,  when  earth  shall  shine 
Among  the  stars,  her  stains  wiped  out,  her  captives  free, 

Her  songs  sweet  music  unto  Thee — 

For  crown,  give,  Lord,  new  work  for  me.” 

Dr.  Smith  is  now  in  charge.  He  is  a modest  and  genial  Scotch- 
man. He  is  a worthy  successor  of  the  saintly  men  who  have  pre- 
ceded him  in  that  high  office.  We  called  on  Dr.  King.  As  Dr. 
Howard,  she  was  associated  with  Dr.  McKenzie  in  the  treatment  of 
Lady  Li. 

On  the  boat  from  Tientsin  to  Shanghai  a mandarin  and  his  ser- 
vants occupied  all  the  cabins  but  one.  One  servant  filled  his  pipe 
and  kept  it  lighted.  One  supplied  him  with  a wet  rag  with  which 
to  wipe  his  face  and  fingers  after  eating.  One  furnished  him  with  a 
piece  of  brown  paper  when  he  wanted  to  blow  his  nose.  When  he 
ate  he  threw  the  bones  under  the  table.  When  he  drank  soup  he 
could  be  heard  across  a ten-acre  field.  In  this  way  he  showed  that 
he  relished  it.  At  Shanghai  there  were  a score  of  mandarins  to  meet 
him  and  to  do  him  honor.  This  man  represents  the  worst  class  of 
men  in  China.  They  stand  in  the  way  of  all  progress.  They  are  the 
conservatives  of  the  conservatives.  We  went  as  usual  to  the  hos- 
pitable home  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ware,  and  were  cordially  welcomed, 
as  usual. 


MISSION  BUILDINGS  IN  NANKIN,  CHINA. 


XXV. 

FROM  SHANGHAI  TO  HONG-KONG  AND  CANTON. 


Before  leaving  Shanghai,  I called  on  Dr.  Y.  J.  Allen.  He  is  a 
veteran  missionary  and  a remarkably  interesting  man.  He  has  been 
an  evangelist,  teacher  and  editor.  He  aided  the  government  during 
the  Taiping  Rebellion  and  received  a “button”  in  recognition  of 
his  services.  He  is  now  engaged  in  literary  work.  He  founded 
and  still  edits  The  Review  of  the  Times.  This  is  the  most  widely 
read  magazine  in  China.  The  officials  not  only  read  it,  but  buy  it 
in  quantities  and  distribute  it  among  their  friends.  Dr.  Allen  tells 
the  Chinese  that  he  has  a right  to  speak.  He  is  not  a wayfaring 
man  spending  a week  or  a month  among  them;  he  has  spent  most 
of  his  years  in  China;  all  his  interests  are  here.  He  speaks  as  one 
having  authority,  and  he  is  heard. 

Since  the  war  with  Japan,  the  government  has  been  asking, 
“ What  must  we  do  to  be  saved?”  The  Mandarins  are  at  sea;  they 
have  no  answer.  Most  of  them  are  fatalists.  These  say  that  noth- 
ing can  be  done.  Dr.  Allen  has  undertaken  to  answer  that  ques- 
tion. He  is  telling  the  officials  that  they  must  accept  the  new  order 
of  things,  and  do  it  ungrudgingly  and  cheerfully.  The  foreigners 
are  here  to  stay.  They  are  too  strong  to  be  driven  out,  and  too 
influential  to  be  ignored.  China  needs  to  get  rid  at  once  and  for- 
ever of  her  old  notions  of  exclusiveness  and  fancied  superiority. 
The  nations  she  contemptuously  styles  “ barbarians  ” are  her  peers, 
and  more.  Plato  thanked  the  gods  that  he  was  born  a man  and  not 
a brute;  a Greek,  and  not  a barbarian.  This  is  the  feeling  of  the 
Chinese.  One  of  them  felicitated  himself  that  he  was  not  born 
across  the  seas,  where  the  people  are  ignorant  of  the  domestic  rela- 
tions, clothe  themselves  with  leaves,  eat  wood,  dwell  in  the  wilder- 
ness, and  live  in  holes  in  the  earth.  Being  born  in  the  Middle 
Kingdom, 'he  has  infinite  blessings  and  the  highest  felicity.  China 
can  never  go  back  to  her  old  civilization.  Whether  she  likes  it  or 
not,  she  must  take  her  place  among  the  nations  of  the  earth.  The 
next  thing  China  needs  is  truth.  It  is  the  truth  that  makes  men 
free  from  [error  and  superstition.  The  officials  do  not  know  their 

duty.  It  is  not  enough  that  they  do  no  wrong;  they  do  wrong  when 
11  161 


162 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


they  do  nothing.  In  the  recent  plague  in  Canton,  officers  were  con- 
tinually going  to  the  temples  to  entreat  the  idols  to  stop  the  disease. 
Day  and  night  were  made  hideous  by  the  cries  of  the  people,  the 
beating  of  drums  and  gongs,  and  the  burning  of  fire  crackers.  In 
time  of  famine,  millions  die  before  food  can  reach  them.  If  the 
rulers  would  adopt  sanitary  measures  and  build  railroads,  these 
things  would  be  at  an  end.  China  needs  the  Gospel.  Look  all 
around  the  world.  Wherever  you  see  progress,  you  see  that  it  can 
be  traced  to  the  Gospel  as  its  root.  This  is  true  of  Europe,  Amer- 
ica, Australia,  and  Japan.  Persia  and  Turkey  are  dead.  Were  it 
not  for  international  jealousies  they  would  perish  in  a day.  China 
can  not  keep  out  the  Gospel.  She  ought  not  to  try.  It  is  her  only 
hope.  Dr.  Allen  is  telling  the  Chinese  that  they  must  be  born 
again.  The  acceptance  of  the  Gospel  means  the  regeneration  of 
her  whole  national  life,  sweeping  reforms  in  the  army  and  navy,  the 
reconstruction  of  the  executive  and  the  purification  of  the  civil 
service.  Dr.  Allen  is  the  friend  of  China.  He  wants  her  to  be 
strong  and  rich  and  wise  and  holy. 

I took  passage  for  Hong-Kong  in  the  “ Empress  of  Japan.” 
The  first  missionary  work  in  the  Empire  was  done  in  the  South, 
because  the  South  was  first  opened.  On  our  way  we  passed  several 
cities  in  which  much  good  work  has  been  done.  Foochow  is  a city 
with  a population  of  six  hundred  thousand.  It  is  the  center  of  a 
populous  district.  Moule  says  that  the  workers  toiled  and  prayed 
there  for  eleven  years  without  a single  convert,  and  when  he  wrote 
there  were  eight  thousand.  The  number  now,  so  Dr.  Gregory  tells 
me,  is  ten  thousand.  Bishop  Walden  has  been  there  holding  the 
annual  conference.  He  speaks  in  high  praise  of  the  eighty  native 
preachers,  and  of  the  work  generally.  One  Chinese  Christian  gave 
$10,000  toward  the  educational  work  in  Foochow.  Not  far  away  is 
Hangchow.  Here  the  Church  Missionary  Society  has  built  a large 
hospital.  One  man  gave  $360,000  for  the  building  and  the  endow- 
ment. Dr.  Main  says,  with  the  Gospel  and  steel  as  weapons,  we 
fight  sin  and  sickness.  Farther  south  are  Amoy  and  Swatow.  In 
these  cities  the  English  Presbyterians,  the  American  Baptists,  the 
Reformed  Church,  and  perhaps  others,  are  at  work.  Dr.  Lyall,  of 
Swatow,  was  on  the  “ Empress.”  He  has  charge  of  the  medical 
work.  He  told  me  that  the  out-patients  number  from  one  to  two 
hundred  per  day.  These  cities  are  the  centers  of  the  work.  The 
missionaries  and  the  Chinese  evangelists  go  into  the  interior  for 
hundreds  of  miles  and  carry  on  the  work.  The  rivers  and  canals 
of  China  make  this  possible.  The  house  boats  draw  little  water. 


FROM  SHANGHAI  TO  HONG-EONG  AND  CANTON 


163 


Some  one  said  they  go  on  “ a heavy  dew.”  Formosa  was  to  our 
left.  Here  Drs.  McKay  and  Barclay  have  done  great  good. 

Hong-Ivong  lies  within  the  tropics.  Since  1842  it  has  been  a 
British  colony.  Before  that  time  it  had  no  commerce.  It  was  the 
site  of  a village  peopled  by  a few  fishermen.  Now  it  is  one  of  the 
great  ports  of  the  world.  The  island  of  Hong-Ivong  has  an  area  of 
thirty  squares  miles.  It  is  mostly  a mountain.  The  population 
numbers  250,000.  Ships  from  all  parts  of  the  globe  ride  at  anchor 
in  the  harbor.  Hong-Ivong  is  the  most  cosmopolitan  place  I have 
yet  seen.  One  sees  more  varieties  of  people  and  more  strange 
headdresses  on  the  streets  than  even  in  Shanghai.  Being  a Brit- 
ish colony,  several  regiments  are  here.  Mr.  Musson,  one  of  the 
chaplains,  asked  me  to  make  his  house  my  home.  He  took  pains 
to  show  me  the  points  of  interest  in  the  city,  and  particularly  the 
missionary  work.  The  English  are  good  colonizers.  They  build 
roads  that  will  endure  as  long  as  those  built  by  the  Romans.  The 
Chinese  say  their  roads  are  good  for  ten  years,  and  bad  for  ten 
thousand  years.  The  English  build  for  the  ages.  Wherever 
England  establishes  herself,  she  rules  in  righteousness.  As  a result 
the  people  prosper.  English  possessions  are  open  to  all  races  and 
all  creeds.  The  London  Society  has  two  hospitals  in  Hong- 
Ivong.  Each  was  built  by  one  man  and  handed  over  to  the 
mission.  One  was  built  by  a Chinese.  He  had  been  educated  in 
England  and  married  a rich  English  wife.  She  died  soon  after  their 
marriage.  He  built  this  hospital  as  her  memorial.  Afterward  he 
went  back  to  his  old  ways,  and  now  has  five  or  six  beauties  in  his 
harem.  The  two  hospitals  have  accommodations  for  one  hundred 
in-patients.  The  out-patients  number  twenty  thousand  a year.  Dr. 
J.  C.  Johnson  showed  me  through  both.  I met  Dr.  Chalmers.  He 
is  a famous  Sinologue.  He  has  been  in  China  forty-three  years. 
He  told  me  that  he  has  charge  of  thirty  schools.  The  Government 
gives  them  grants  in  aid.  These  grants  are  sufficient  to  pay  all 
the  expenses  of  the  school.  The  Wesleyan,  the  Basle,  the  Rhenish 
Societies  are  also  at  work  in  Hong-Ivong. 

Macao  is  thirty-five  miles  distant;  Canton  is  ninety-five  miles. 
Morrison,  the  first  Protestant  missionary  to  China,  did  his  work  at 
these  two  places.  Macao  is  now  a Portuguese  possession.  Its  bus- 
iness and  its  glory  have  departed.  It  is  a pretty  place,  with  some 
scenes  of  historic  interest.  The  chief  of  these  is  Morrison’s  grave. 
Canton  is  on  the  Pearl  River.  The  approaches  to  the  city  were 
guarded  by  forts  that  were  considered  by  the  Chinese  impregnable. 
The  British  gunboats  easily  silenced  their  guns  and  passed  on. 


164 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Canton  was  ransomed  by  the  payment  of  $6,000,000.  This  is 
the  most  prosperous  city  I have  seen  in  China.  The  buildings 
are  substantial.  The  streets  are  about  six  feet  wide.  Coolies  go 
along  carrying  chairs  or  loads,  and  though  the  streets  are  full  of 
people,  there  is  no  collision.  Canton  is  the  silk  market  of  China. 
This  is  the  source  of  its  wealth.  The  people  must  be  very  relig- 
ious. Before  every  shop  or  store  is  a place  where  incense  is  burned 
night  and  morning.  The  temples  are  full  of  idols,  and  are  in  good 
condition.  In  one  I saw  Marco  Polo  among  the  gods,  and  incense 
burning  before  him.  Canton  is  the  only  place  in  China  where  I 
saw  dogs  and  rats  for  sale  as  food.  Old  ladies  eat  rats  as  hair 
restoratives.  These  animals  are  not  used  in  this  way  as  much  as 
is  commonly  supposed.  The  boating  population  is  a curiosity.  It 
numbers  three  hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  People  are  born,  mar- 
ried, live  and  die  on  boats.  They  cook  and  eat  and  wash  their 
clothes  and  worship  the  gods  on  the  water.  They  have  no  other 
home.  Some  are  owned  and  managed  by  women.  On  one  boat  I 
counted  four  generations,  and  not  a man  in  the  lot.  These  mer- 
maids handle  the  sail  or  oar  or  rudder  as  skillfully  as  men.  Dr. 
Swan,  whose  guest  I was  while  in  Canton,  showed  me  through  the 
hospital.  Dr.  Peter  Parker  opened  a work  here  sixty  years  ago. 
Dr.  Happer  reached  Canton  in  1844.  For  a time  he  stood  almost 
alone.  He  endured  hardships  and  confronted  difficulties  such  as 
now  few  men  can  appreciate.  Drs.  Kerr  and  Swan  are  now  in 
charge  of  the  hospital.  Dr.  Kerr  has  been  here  for  forty-two  years. 
He  is  one  of  the  most  eminent  surgeons  living.  He  told  me  that 
forty  thousand  in-patients  and  hundreds  of  thousands  of  out- 
patients have  been  under  his  care  since  his  service  began.  Each 
year  the  in-patients  number  one  thousand  two  hundred,  and  the  out- 
patients forty  thousand.  There  are  thirty-one  men  and  women 
connected  with  the  mission  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  in  this  dis- 
trict. There  are  four  stations  and  thirty-two  out-stations.  The 
school  for  girls  has  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  enrolled.  The  col- 
lege is  across  the  river.  It  has  eighty  students.  Fourteen  of  these 
are  studying  for  the  ministry.  Mr.  Beattie  of  this  mission  took  me 
to  many  places  of  interest.  One  of  these  was  a Buddhist  temple. 
We  heard  the  priests  chant  for  nearly  an  hour.  I called  at  the  mis- 
sion of  the  Southern  Baptists.  Dr.  Graves  was  teaching  a class  of 
thirty  theological  students.  He  said  to  me  that  they  prepare  men 
to  preach,  and  leave  the  Lord  to  call  them.  I visited  the  Berlin 
mission.  Mr.  Ivollecker  explained  that  most  of  their  woi'k  was 
educational.  There  are  ten  day  schools  and  one  theological  semi- 


FOUR  GENERATIONS  IN  CHINA. 


BOYS’  SCHOOL  IN  CHU  CHEO,  CHINA. 


FROM  SHANGHAI  TO  HONG  KONG  AND  CANTON 


165 


nary  connected  with  this  mission.  There  are  eight  workers  on  the 
staff,  and  about  eight  hundred  believers.  I called  at  the  Wes- 
leyan Compound  and  on  the  representatives  of  the  American  Board, 
but  did  not  see  their  work.  The  Catholics  have  a large  property 
and  a majestic  cathedral.  The  ground  upon  which  it  stands  was 
once  the  property  of  the  city.  It  is  a constant  source  of  irritation 
to  the  Chinese  that  it  is  not  so  yet.  Most  of  the  Catholic  mission- 
aries in  China  are  French  Jesuits.  The  French  Government  stands 
behind  them.  Years  ago  all  missionaries  were  called  upon  to  leave 
China.  Their  property  was  confiscated.  When  the  French  made 
their  treaty  with  China,  they  demanded  that  all  such  property 
should  be  returned  to  its  Catholic  owners.  Centuries  had  elapsed 
since  the  confiscation.  Most  of  the  property  was  held  by  persons 
who  had  come  into  possession  of  it  honestly.  That  made  no  differ- 
ence ; they  were  obliged  to  vacate.  So  it  came  to  pass  that  what 
was  once  Government  property  reverted  to  the  Catholics  and  they 
erected  their  cathedral  upon  it. 

For  three  years  Canton  was  held  and  controlled  by  the  British. 
These  were  three  prosperous  years.  The  people  soon  became 
reconciled  to  their  new  rulers.  Taxes  were  collected  and  the 
money  used  honestly.  This  was  a new  experience  in  Chinese  poli- 
tics. The  salaries  of  the  officials  are  small;  they  are  expected  to 
squeeze  the  people  for  much  more  than  their  stipulated  allowance. 
Those  who  are  best  qualified  to  judge  say  that  the  service  is  cor- 
rupt and  venal  from  bottom  to  top.  One  prominent  Chinese  said 
he  thought  he  knew  three  honest  officials  in  the  Empire.  The  man- 
darins are  supremely  interested  in  perpetuating  the  existing  mis- 
government.  Unyielding  resistance  to  change  is  their  motto.  They 
have  a monopoly  and  want  to  keep  it.  The  English  are  often 
supercilious  and  overbearing,  but  they  are  honest  and  capable,  and 
people  prosper  wherever  the  administration  is  in  their  hands.  It  is 
their  honesty  that  gives  them  their  place  and  influence  in  all 
Oriental  countries.  There  are  many  in  Canton  who  wish  the  Brit- 
ish had  retained  permanent  possession  of  their  city.  After  two 
days  spent  in  looking  into  the  work,  I returned  to  Hong-Ivong. 


XXVI. 


CHRISTIANITY  IN  CHINA. 

Tradition  says  that  the  Apostle  Thomas  preached  the  Gospel 
in  China.  This  is  possible,  but  not  probable.  So  far  as  is  known, 
the  Nestorians  were  the  first  to  send  missionaries  to  the  Chinese. 
Their  watchword  was,  “ Christ  for  the  whole  world;  and  the  whole 
world  for  Christ.”  The  time  of  their  arrival  cannot  be  ascertained. 
Williams  thinks  there  are  grounds  for  placing  it  as  early  as  505. 
The  now  famous  Nestorian  monument  discovered  in  Shensi  in  1625, 
was  erected  in  781.  Some  writers  have  denied  or  doubted  the 
genuineness  of  this  monument,  but  without  sufficient  reason.  The 
inscription  gives  a summary  of  the  Gospel  and  an  account  of 
its  entrance  into  China  and  the  patronage  extended  to  it  by  various 
Emperors.  It  states  that  Olopun  made  his  way  from  the  West  to 
China  and  translated  a portion  of  the  Bible.  The  Emperor  investi- 
gated the  new  doctrine,  was  pleased  with  it,  and  said:  “ Let  it  have 
free  access  throughout  the  Empire.”  A monastery  was  built 
and  the  Emperor’s  picture  was  painted  in  it.  He  gave  orders  that 
monasteries  should  be  built  in  every  prefecture  in  China.  The  new 
faith  enjoying  imperial  patronage  spread  rapidly  in  the  ten  circuits 
into  which  the  Empire  was  then  divided.  It  continued  to  prosper 
till  the  Empress  Wu  usurped  the  throne.  She  was  an  ardent 
Buddhist,  and  persecuted  Christianity  during  the  twenty  years  of 
her  reign.  After  her  death  the  buildings  which  she  caused  to  be 
destroyed  were  restored,  and  the  number  of  missionaries  was 
increased. 

Meanwhile  Buddhism,  which  entered  China  in  the  first  century 
of  our  era,  was  making  progress.  The  two  native  faiths,  Confu- 
cianism and  Taoism,  united  against  the  two  foreign  religions. 
Buddhism  and  Nestorianism.  They  prevailed  upon  the  Emperor  to 
issue  a decree  suppressing  all  foreign  religions.  He  commanded 
that  the  Buddhist  monasteries  be  destroyed  throughout  the 
Empire,  and  that  the  monks  and  nuns  all  return  to  the  ways  of 
common  life.  Nestorianism  shared  the  same  fate.  The  Emperor 
said  the  men  who  taught  it  were  to  be  required  to  resume  the  ways 

of  ordinary  life,  and  their  unsubstantial  teachings  were  to  be  no 

166 


CHRISTIANITY  IX  CHINA 


167 


more  heard.  Buddhism  rallied  and  filled  the  Empire.  Nestorian- 
ism  received  its  death-blow.  No  doubt  many  of  the  converts 
proved  faithful  unto  death.  Many,  so  it  is  believed,  were  gathered 
into  the  churches  planted  later. 

John  of  Mount  Corvin  was  the  first  Roman  Catholic  to  enter 
China.  He  reached  Peking  in  1293,  and  was  kindly  received  by 
the  Emperor,  Kublai  Khan.  He  was  made  an  archbishop,  and  had 
seven  suffragan  bishops  under  him.  These  were  turbuleut  times, 
and  Catholicism  did  not  make  much  progress.  After  the  fall  of 
the  Mongol  Empire  direct  overland  connection  with  Europe  was 
interrupted,  and  for  about  two  hundred  years  China  was  almost 
completely  isolated  from  the  Western  world.  Francis  Xavier 
attempted  to  gain  an  entrance  for  the  Gospel,  but  died  oil  the  coast 
in  1552.  Matteo  Ricci  is  justly  regarded  as  the  apostle  of  Roman 
Catholicism  in  China.  He  reached  the  Province  of  Canton  in  1581. 
Soon  after  he  made  his  way  to  the  capital.  He  was  favorably 
received  by  the  Emperor  on  the  throne.  Ricci  is  described  as  a 
man  of  great  scientific  acquirements,  of  invincible  perseverance,  of 
various  resources,  and  of  winning  manners,  maintaining  with  all 
these  gifts,  a single  eye  to  the  conversion  of  China,  and  the  bring- 
ing of  people  of  all  ranks  to  the  faith  of  Christianity.  Ricci  is 
highly  extolled  by  the  Jesuits  for  his  learniug,  tact,  skill  and  perse- 
verance. Another  writer  of  the  same  church  paints  a different 
picture.  “The  kings  found  in  him  a man  full  of  complaisance; 
the  pagans  a minister  who  accommodated  himself  to  their  super- 
stitions; the  mandarins  a pliant  courtier  skilled  in  all  the  trickery 
of  courts;  and  the  devil  a faithful  servant  who,  far  from  destroy- 
ing, established  his  reign  among  the  heathen,  and  then  extended  it 
among  the  Christians.”  Among  the  converts  was  an  officer  of 
high  rank,  a member  of  the  celebrated  Hanlin  Academy.  His 
daughter  did  what  so  many  Catholic  women  have  done  since.  She 
gave  her  fortune  to  help  the  work.  She  built  thirty-nine  churches 
and  printed  one  hundred  and  thirty  books.  The  influence  of  Ricci 
and  his  associates  at  the  capital  was  very  great.  They  corrected 
the  calendar,  made  a survey  of  the  Empire,  and  cast  cannon  for  the 
Emperor.  The  Emperor,  so  it  is  said,  was  on  the  point  of  becom- 
ing a Christian.  Had  he  changed  his  faith  the  history  of  China 
and  her  relations  with  other  nations  would  have  been  very  different. 

There  arose  fierce  disputes  among  the  missionaries  themselves. 
The  Jesuits  began  the  work,  but  they  were  not  allowed  to  prose- 
cute it  alone  and  in  peace.  The  Franciscans  and  Dominicans  sent 
their  men  to  the  field.  Directly  the  strife  began.  They  differed 


168 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


on  two  points.  These  were  the  words  that  should  be  used  for  God, 
and  the  worship  of  ancestors.  They  appealed  to  the  Pope  and  to 
the  Emperor.  These  distinguished  arbiters  differed.  The  Pope, 
assuming  that  he  was  Christ’s  vicegerent,  insisted  that  his  decision 
should  settle  the  matter.  The  Emperor  was  not  accustomed  to 
such  lofty  claims  and  such  authoritative  expressions.  He  said, 
“Who  is  this  man  who  dares  to  make  decrees  for  my  subjects  con- 
trary to  my  will?”  All  thought  of  becoming  a convert  was 
dismissed.  His  successor  issued  an  edict  prohibiting  the  propaga- 
tion of  Christians  in  the  Empire,  and  calling  upon  all  missionaries 
to  leave  the  country  except  such  as  were  required  in  Peking  for 
scientific  purposes.  Some  obeyed  and  left;  others  did  not.  They 
hid  themselves  among  their  flocks,  and  lived  and  died  among  them. 
Roman  Catholicism  remained  under  the  ban  till  1842.  Since  that 
time  the  force  in  the  field  has  been  greatly  strengthened.  The  latest 
published  statistics  areas  follows:  Bishops,  41;  European  priests, 
664;  native  priests,  559;  colleges,  34;  convents,  34;  native  con- 
verts, 1,002,818.  Their  cathedrals  are  the  finest  buildings  in  the 
Empire.  There  are  four  of  these  in  Peking.  The  church  is  im- 
mensely wealthy.  She  owns  great  amounts  of  property  in  the  open 
ports  and  in  ports  that  are  certain  to  be  open  in  a few  years.  She 
can  afford  fine  buildings  on  eligible  sites.  With  her,  money  is  no 
consideration. 

Robert  Morrison  was  the  first  Protestant  missionary  to  enter 
China.  He  reached  Canton  in  1807.  It  was  a capital  crime  for  a 
Chinese  to  teach  any  foreigner  the  language.  He  saw  that  it  would 
not  be  wise  for  him  to  attempt  to  preach  to  the  people.  He 
entered  the  service  of  the  East  India  Company,  and  spent  his  time 
between  Canton  and  Macao.  He  undertook  to  translate  the 
Scriptures,  and  to  prepare  a Chinese-English  Dictionary.  In  1814 
he  published  the  New  Testament.  In  1818,  with  the  help  of 
Milne,  he  published  the  Old  Testament.  In  the  years  1817-1823  he 
published  a dictionary  in  six  volumes.  It  has  been  said  that 
there  is  no  finer  monument  of  human  perseverance  than  the  dic- 
tionary of  Dr.  Morrison.  Someone  has  said,  “The  patience  that 
refuses  to  be  conquered,  the  diligence  that  never  tires,  the  caution 
that  always  trembled,  and  the  studious  habit  that  spontaneously 
seeks  retirement,  were  best  adapted  to  the  first  Protestant 
missionary  to  China.”  He  saw  three  or  four  converts,  no  churches, 
schools,  or  congregations  publicly  assembled.  When  he  died  in 
1834  the  prospect  was  nearly  as  dark  as  when  he  landed.  He  died 
as  he  lived,  in  faith.  He  was  one  of  those  of  whom  it  is  said  that 


earc 
aa  . 

• CO 

• S. 


-I 

^Ei 


•—  CO 

.*  kf 

O <b 


wen. 


CHRISTIANITY  IN  CHINA 


169 


they  did  not  receive  the  promises,  but  saw  and  greeted  them  from 
afar,  and  confessed  that  they  were  pilgrims  and  strangers  on  the 
earth.  In  one  of  his  letters  he  said:  “I  patiently  await  the  events 
to  be  developed  in  the  course  of  Divine  Providence.  The  Lord 
reigneth.  If  the  kiugdom  of  our  God  and  Savior  prospers  in 
China,  all  will  be  well.  Other  matters  are  of  comparatively  small 
importance.” 

The  Xankin  Treaty  provided  for  the  opening  of  five  cities  to  for- 
eigners. This  treaty  was  formed  at  the  close  of  the  first  opium 
war.  The  five  cities  are  Canton,  Amoy,  Foochow,  Xingpo  and 
Shanghai.  These  are  all  south  of  the  Great  River.  The  Tientsin 
Treaty  provided  for  the  opening  of  other  cities  -in  the  north. 
Other  conventions  provided  for  the  opening  of  cities  on  the 
Yangtsze  as  far  inland  as  Chunking.  The  whole  Empire  is  now 
practically  open.  There  are  missionaries  in  all  the  provinces 
except  one.  The  Catholics  were  there  three  hundred  years  ago, 
and  they  have  been  able  to  hold  their  ground.  Since  the  adoption 
of  these  treaties  Christianity  is  on  a very  different  footing  from 
what  it  was  before.  Its  advocates  are  free  to  go  where  they  please, 
and  the  converts  are  not  to  be  molested  in  any  way.  There  are 
now  seventeen  hundred  missionaries  scattered  throughout  the 
Empire.  The  converts  number  about  sixty  thousand.  There  are 
schools  and  colleges  and  universities,  with  a total  enrollment  of 
twenty  thousand  pupils.  There  are  schools  for  the  blind  and  the 
deaf.  Leper  asylums  have  been  established.  The  missionaries 
protest  against  opium  and  against  foot-binding.  In  times  of 
famine,  or  flood,  or  pestilence,  they  are  among  the  foremost  in  min- 
istering relief.  The  converts  are,  for  the  most  part,  from  the  poor 
and  the  middle  class.  This  need  surprise  no  one.  It  was  so  in 
Christ’s  time  and  in  Paul’s  ministry.  “Have  any  of  the  Pharisees 
believed?”  That  was  the  taunt  then.  The  officials  now,  as  a 
class,  stand  aloof.  The  fact  is,  no  Christian  can  hold  office. 

To  the  Chinese  it  seems  monstrous  that  barbarians  should 
attempt  to  improve  the  inhabitants  of  the  Celestial  Empire  when 
they  are  so  miserably  deficient  themselves.  What  are  the  grounds 
of  this  opinion?  They  allow  men  and  women  to  mix  in  society  and 
walk  arm  in  arm  through  the  streets.  They  do  not  scruple  to 
trample  printed  paper  under  foot.  They  bury  their  dead  in  coffins 
only  an  inch  thick,  and  do  not  burn  a bit  of  gilt  money  to  support 
them  in  the  future  world.  They  allow  the  rich  and  noble  to  pass 
into  office  without  standing  a literary  examination,  and  do  not 
throw  open  the  doors  to  the  poorest  and  meanest  in  the  land. 


170 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


They  send  gunboats  and  seize  the  territory  of  their  neighbors.  They 
seethe  immoral  and  intemperate  lives  and  cupidity  of  some  from 
Christian  lands,  and  then  ask,  “What  good  will  accrue  to  us  in 
case  we  change  our  faith?”  It  is  in  this  strain  that  a Chinese 
tract  speaks.  The  missionaries  have  to  meet  the  age-long  and 
inveterate  prejudices  of  the  people.  Treaties  do  not  change  public 
sentiment  and  make  bitter  things  sweet.  Archdeacon  Moule  states 
that  converts  lose  all  share  in  lands  attached  to  the  ancestral  halls, 
and  the  affection  and  respect  of  relatives.  In  some  cases  their 
names  are  stricken  from  the  family  rolls,  and  thereby  their  pos- 
terity are  incapacitated  for  competing  at  the  public  examinations 
for  literary  degrees.  They  become  aliens  and  outcasts.  They  find 
it  harder  to  borrow  money  and  to  obtain  help  in  time  of  need.  If 
they  keep  Sunday,  they  lose  a seventh  of  their  wages  and  gains,  and 
often  their  employment.  It  requires  no  small  degree  of  courage 
and  faith  to  confess  Christ  in  such  circumstances.  There  ai’e  those 
who  take  joyfully  the  spoiling  of  their  goods,  and  who  regard  it  a 
gift  that  they  can  suffer  for  Christ  as  well  as  believe  on  his  name. 
There  are  those,  and  they  are  a large  number,  who  have  demon- 
strated the  sincerity  of  their  faith  by  enduring  martyrdom. 

There  are  sixty-one  hospitals  and  forty-four  dispensaries  in  the 
Empire.  The  patients  number  358,000  a year.  This  work  mani- 
fests in  a very  practical  way  the  humane  side  of  our  religion.  It 
does  much  to  undermine  opposition  and  to  dispel  prejudice,  and 
open  homes  and  hearts  that  would  otherwise  be  closed  to  the  mis- 
sionary. Williams  gives  a letter  written  by  a Chinese  gentleman  to 
a doctor  in  Macao: 

“To  knock  head  and  thank  the  great  doctor.  Venerable  gen- 
tleman: May  your  groves  of  almond  trees  be  abundant,  and  the 

orange  trees  make  the  water  of  your  well  fragrant!  As  heretofore, 
may  you  be  known  to  the  world  as  illustrious  and  brilliant,  and  as  a 
most  powerful  and  skillful  doctor.  I last  year  arrived  in  Macao 
blind  in  both  eyes.  I have  to  thank  you,  venerable  sir,  for  having 
by  jTour  excellent  medicines  cured  me  perfectly.  Your  goodness  is 
lofty  as  a hill,  your  virtue  deep  as  the  sea.  I return  to  my  mean 
province.  Your  illustrious  name,  venerable  sir,  will  extend  to  all 
time;  during  a thousand  ages  it  will  not  decay.  I return  thanks  for 
your  great  kindness.  Impotent  are  my  words  to  sound  forth  your 
fame  and  to  express  my  thanks.  I wish  you  everlasting  tran- 
quillity.” 

It  should  be  said  that  the  Chinese  distrust  and  dislike  of  for- 
eigners are  not  without  cause.  Emperors  belonging  to  three  dynas- 


CHRISTIANITY  IN  CHINA 


171 


ties  were  kindly  disposed  toward  missionaries.  Had  the  Pope 
manifested  the  meekness  and  gentleness  of  Christ,  the  prohibitory 
decrees  would  never  have  been  issued.  His  lordly  airs  gave 
offense.  His  insolence  was  resented.  The  opium  wars  were  the 
most  unjust  wars  ever  waged.  When  the  Chinese  asked  the  British 
to  help  them  fight  opium,  the  answer  was:  “If  your  people  are 

virtuous  and  your  officers  incorruptible,  no  opium  will  be  con- 
sumed. But  your  people  will  have  it.  If  we  do  not  bring  it,  some 
one  else  will.  Better  legalize  it  and  make  it  a source  of  revenue.-’ 
The  English  took  Hong-Kong.  France  took  a large  slice  of  the 
South.  Concessions  were  demanded  in  several  ports.  In  these  the 
imperial  authority  is  practically  nullified.  The  bearing  of  Christian 
nations  has  not  always  been  respectful.  The  Chinese  are  a proud 
people,  and  they  were  hurt  by  the  unjust  demands  enforced  by  irre- 
sistible gunboats.  Had  she  been  dealt  with  as  Japan,  it  is  likely 
that  the  results  would  have  been  equally  happy.  The  Christian 
nations  did  not  act  in  a way  to  commend  the  Gospel  to  the  Chinese. 
On  the  contrary,  their  conduct  made  it  a stench  in  their  nostrils. 
Furthermore,  the  Taipings  claimed  to  be  Christians.  They  had  the 
Scriptures,  and  were  baptized.  But  they  were  not  worthy  of  that 
holy  name.  Nevertheless,  the  fact  that  they  made  this  claim  had 
its  weight. 

In  the  face  of  all  this  prejudice  and  hostility,  Christianity  is 
making  substantial  gains  year  by  year.  Those  who  have  been  long- 
est in  China  are  most  confident  of  the  ultimate  and  universal  tri- 
umph. I have  seen  no  man  who  is  dubious  of  this  result.  In  1842 
there  were  six  Christians  in  the  Empire;  now  there  are  sixty 
thousand.  If  Christianity  should  advance  in  the  next  half  century 
at  the  same  rate  that  it  has  in  the  last,  and  there  is  no  reason  why 
it  should  not,  the  converts  will  number  many  millions.  The  work 
is  of  God,  and  it  cannot  fail.  We  have  his  word  of  promise  con- 
firmed by  his  oath  that  all  the  earth  shall  be  filled  with  his  glory. 


XXVII. 


THE  WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  CHINA. 

Though  there  had  long  been  a conviction  that  we  ought  to  aid 
in  the  evangelization  of  China,  it  was  not  until  1886  that  anything 
was  done.  Dr.  W.  E.  Macklin  had  been  sent  to  Japan.  On  his 
arrival  he  found  that  there  was  no  special  need  of  a medical  mis- 
sionary in  that  field.  The  Japanese  physicians  are  numerous  and 
competent.  Taking  counsel  with  his  associates  and  with  the  mana- 
gers at  home,  he  left  Japan  for  China.  After  spending  six  months 
in  Shanghai  on  the  language,  he  moved  to  Nankin.  As  soon  as  he 
was  able  to  speak  and  secure  a place,  he  began  to  preach  the  Gos- 
pel and  to  heal  the  sick.  It  was  not  long  till  A.  F.  H.  Saw  and 
E.  P.  Hearnden  joined  him.  They  came  from  the  West  London 
Tabernacle.  They  had  been  trained  in  doctrine  and  in  work  by 
W.  T.  Moore.  The  next  year  F.  E.  Meigs  and  E.  T.  Williams  and 
their  families  arrived  from  America.  They  secured  rooms  in  an  old 
temple,  repaired  them,  and  began  the  study  of  Chinese.  Other 
workers  have  been  sent  to  reinforce  them  at  different  times.  Thus 
T.  J.  Arnold  and  W.  R.  Hunt  and  their  wives  came  from  England, 
and  Dr.  James  Butchart,  W.  P.  Bentley  and  wife,  and  Miss  Rose 
Sickler,  and  Miss  Emma  Lyon  came  from  America.  Several  valua- 
ble workers  united  with  them  on  the  field.  These  are  as  follows: 
James  Ware  and  wife.  He  had  long  been  connected  with  the  Brit- 
ish and  Foreign  Bible  Society.  He  is  fluent  in  speech,  up  in  the 
language,  diligent  in  business,  and  fervent  in  spirit.  C.  E.  Molland 
and  wife.  He  is  English;  she  is  Irish.  They  are  a vigorous  and 
happy  pair.  The  pleasure  of  the  Lord  is  sure  to  prosper  in  their 
hands.  There  has  been  one  death,  and  only  one,  in  the  Mission — 
that  of  Carrie  Loos  Williams.  A dozen  children  have  been  born. 
These  brighten  and  bless  the  hearts  and  homes  of  the  missionaries. 

Nankin,  the  first  place  occupied,  is  on  the  Yangtsze,  and  is  two 
hundred  miles  from  the  coast.  It  is  a walled  city,  with  a popula- 
tion of  five  hundred  thousand.  There  are  thousands  of  villages 
and  towns  within  a hundred  miles.  Shanghai  was  next  occu- 
pied. This  is  the  most  influential  commercial  center  in  the  East. 
Its  importance  is  destined  to  increase  year  by  year.  Shanghai  is  a 

172 


THE  WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  CHINA 


173 


great  literary  center.  Here  the  Recorder , the  Revieio  of  the  Times, 
and  the  Missionary  Review,  to  say  nothing  of  the  Herald  and  other 
secular  papers,  are  published.  Peking  has  a larger  population,  but 
in  the  volume  of  business  and  in  the  influence  exerted  Peking  does 
not  compare  with  Shanghai.  Not  only  so,  but  Shanghai  is  one  of 
the  most  cosmopolitan  cities  in  the  world.  Walk  along  the  Bund 
any  hour  of  the  day,  and  you  will  meet  representatives  of  all  kin- 
dreds and  peoples  and  tribes  and  tongues.  Wuhu  is  an  open  port, 
fifty  miles  up  the  river  from  Nankin.  It  has  a population  of  about 
one  hundred  thousand.  Chu  Cheo  is  on  the  great  road  from  Nan- 
kin to  Peking.  It  is  a city  of  considerable  political  importance. 
Lu  Hob  is  not  far  distant.  This  district  has  an  area  of  five  thou- 
sand square  miles,  and  a population  of  four  million.  Not  far  from 
Chu  Cheo  there  are  two  other  cities  and  sixty  towns  and  villages. 
Yu-Ho-Tsz  is  a village.  The  young  church  there  is  almost  self-sup- 
porting. These  places  are  centers  from  which  the  workers  go  out 
and  evangelize. 

Several  buildings  have  been  erected.  The  Memorial  Hospital  in 
Nankin  cost  $6,000.  It  has  accommodations  for  sixty  in-patients. 
The  dispensary  and  chapel  are  a few  yards  distant.  When  the 
medical  work  began,  the  people  were  angry  and  wanted  to  drive 
Dr.  Macklin  away.  The  college  building  is  in  the  same  com- 
pound, as  are  the  three  homes  erected  for  the  workers.  The 
Carrie  Loos  Williams  Memorial  Building  is  in  course  of  erection. 
It  will  be  the  home  of  the  Girls’  School  and  the  center  of  the  work 
among  the  women.  In  Wuhu  a home  has  been  built.  It  needs  a 
wall  to  make  it  complete.  This  will  keep  the  pigs  away  and  dis- 
courage burglars  and  beggars.  In  Chu  Cheo  a home  is  going  up. 
This  will  be  a great  improvement  over  the  mud  house  in  which 
the  two  families  there  are  now  living.  The  other  buildings  used 
are  rented.  Some  are  commodious  and  convenient;  others  are  not. 
Bents  are  very  high.  It  is  much  more  economical  to  build  than  to 
lease. 

The  location  and  work  of  the  several  missionaries  at  present, 
are  as  follows:  Dr.  Macklin  has  charge  of  the  medical  woi'k  in 
Nankin.  There  are  two  dispensaries — one  at  the  Drum  Tower  and 
one  at  the  South  Gate.  The  out-patients  number  about  twelve 
thousand  a year;  the  in-patients  about  five  hundred.  As  a rule, 
only  the  worst  cases  come  to  the  foreigner.  The  Chinese,  natui’ally 
enough,  prefer  their  own  physicians  when  they  can  heal  them. 
They  prefer  powders  made  from  tigers’  claws  or  bones,  or  decoc- 
tions made  from  bugs  and  maggots,  to  the  drugs  that  come  from 


174 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


America.  The  native  physicians  know  nothing  about  surgery. 
Dr.  Macklin  told  me  of  a beggar  he  found  on  the  street.  Both  feet 
were  gangrened.  He  took  him  in,  washed,  dressed,  clothed  and 
fed  him.  He  removed  both  feet,  and  nursed  him  till  he  was  able 
to  go  about.  Then  he  set  him  up  in  business  and  put  it  in  his 
power  to  earn  an  honest  living.  He  said  the  difference  between 
the  hospital  and  the  cold  street  was  the  difference  between  heaven 
and  hell.  The  man  did  not  become  a Christian.  On  the  contrai’y, 
he  went  back  to  his  opium.  Was  the  doctor’s  work  a failui’e  ? 
Love  never  fails.  Dr.  Macklin  preaches  to  the  out-patients  every 
day,  and  conducts  services  with  the  in-patients  in  the  hospital  as 
well.  He  goes  out  into  the  tea-houses  and  villages  and  preaches  as 
he  can  find  time.  He  uses  his  spare  hours  in  writing  for  medical 
journals  and  in  the  study  of  social  problems.  Dr.  Butchart  has 
been  associated  with  Dr.  Macklin  in  the  work  since  he  reached 
China  four  years  ago.  When  Dr.  Macklin  was  home  on  furlough, 
Dr.  Butchart  had  full  charge.  They  have  decided  that  it  is  better 
to  divide.  One  man  with  trained  assistants  can  do  all  that  is 
needed  in  Nankin.  In  consequence  of  this  decision,  Dr.  Butchart 
is  looking  out  for  a new  place.  This  is  not  so  simple  a matter  as  it 
may  seem.  Some  cities  are  fully  occupied  from  a medical  point  of 
view.  The  present  hospitals  can  do  all  the  work  there.  Other 
places  are  not  open.  Dr.  Butchart  has  been  placed  under  guard  on 
entering  the  gates,  and  placed  in  the  magistrate’s  yamen.  After 
an  interview  he  was  escorted  out  and  passed  on  from  one  band  of 
soldiers  to  another  till  he  was  out  of  the  province.  There  are 
cities  that  will  allow  no  foreigner  to  remain  within  their  gates. 
Dr.  Butchart  hopes  to  be  able  to  find  a place  soon  where  he  can 
open  a dispensary  and  begin  work,  and  after  a time  put  up  a 
hospital. 

F.  E.  Meigs  has  charge  of  the  college.  This  is  a boarding- 
school.  The  rising  bell  rings  at  six;  breakfast  is  at  seven;  the 
work  of  the  day  begins  at  eight.  There  are  thirty  pupils  and  three 
teachers.  All  business  is  in  the  hands  of  the  President.  This  takes 
most  of  every  forenoon.  He  teaches  four  classes  in  the  afternoon. 
Six  boys  are  Christians,  eight  are  inquirers.  Most  are  from  non- 
Christian  homes.  This  must  be  so  in  the  beginning  of  a work  of 
this  kind.  In  addition  to  this,  he  conducts  the  chapel  exercises. 
He  preaches  regularly  on  Sundays  and  at  other  times.  He  has 
charge  of  the  Sunday-school,  the  Endeavor  Society  and  the  mid- 
week prayer-meeting.  Twice  a month  he  visits  a station  in  the 
country,  fifteen  miles  from  Nankin.  He  is  gone  two  days,  and 


THE  WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  CHINA 


175 


preaches  ten  or  twenty  times.  He  has  his  household  duties  and 
general  reading  and  study  besides.  E.  T.  Williams  goes  to  the 
South  Gate  three  times  a week.  He  conducts  a Bible-class  and  the 
communion  service  on  Sunday,  and  preaches  to  the  people.  He 
goes  to  Pukeo  and  Ivwan  Ying  Mung  once  a week.  On  his  way 
home  from  each  place  he  stops  and  preaches  at  Hsia  Ivwan.  He 
preaches  at  several  other  points  while  going  and  coming.  He  gives 
some  time  each  week  to  the  Missionary  Review.  He  is  editor  of 
this  magazine.  When  I was  in  Peking,  Timothy  Richard,  the  Sec- 
retary of  the  Society  for  Christian  and  Useful  Knowledge,  thanked 
the  Foreign  Society  for  the  good  work  Mr.  Williams  is  doing,  and 
expressed  his  desire  that  the  Society  could  see  its  way  to  allow  him 
to  give  even  more  time  to  a work  so  urgently  needed  and  for  which 
he  is  singularly  qualified.  Dr.  Allen  edits  the  Review  of  the  Times. 
He  discusses  political  and  scientific  subjects.  His  magazine  is  a 
secular  one.  The  Missionary  Review  is  wholly  religious.  The 
native  pastors  must  be  supplied  with  information  respecting  the 
progress  of  the  work. 

Messrs.  Hearnden  and  Hunt  live  in  Chu  Cheo.  Mr.  Hearnden 
has  charge  of  the  evangelistic  work  thei’e,  and  of  the  boys’  school. 
He  preaches  every  day  in  the  street  chapel,  and  goes  out  into  the 
towns  and  villages  occasionally.  The  boys  at  school  attend  morn- 
ing prayers  in  the  chapel.  Mr.  Hunt  goes  to  Yu-Ho-Tsz  once  a 
week.  He  has  charge  of  the  dispensary  in  Chu  Cheo.  He  sees 
about  twenty  patients  a day.  The  night  before  my  visit,  he  was 
called  to  see  a young  wife  who  had  taken  poison.  Her  mother-in- 
law  was  cruel,  and  she  wanted  to  commit  suicide.  She  had  to 
respect  and  obey  her  while  living,  but  dead  she  could  haunt  her  and 
make  her  life  wretched.  The  old  lady  was  alarmed  and  wanted 
help.  His  fame  has  gone  out  through  all  the  district,  fie  has  taken 
lessons  from  Drs.  Macklin  and  Butchart,  and  can  handle  most  of 
the  cases  that  come  to  him.  He  evangelizes  in  the  country  as  he 
can  command  time.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saw  have  just  returned  from 
home.  They  go  to  Lu  Hoh  for  the  present.  They  have  lived  there 
and  have  many  friends.  By  their  preaching  and  teaching  and  by 
their  blameless  and  beneficent  lives,  they  did  much  to  break  down 
prejudice  and  opposition,  and  to  pave  the  way  for  the  triumph  of 
the  Gospel  in  that  section. 

James  Ware  lives  in  Shanghai.  He  superintends  the  work  in 
the  Central  Church.  He  preaches  on  Sundays  and  teaches  a Bible- 
class.  He  conducts  evangelistic  sei’vices  in  the  new  manufacturing 
district  of  Shanghai.  He  has  the  oversight  of  the  schools  and 


176 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


examines  the  pupils  weekly.  He  has  charge  of  the  work  at  four 
out-stations  as  follows:  Tseu  Saw,  fourteen  miles  distant,  a 

walled  city  having  a population  of  thirty  thousand;  Tsungming, 
another  walled  city  on  an  island  fifty  miles  from  Shanghai,  having  a 
population  of  one  million;  Yung  Shing  Saw,  a city  sixty-five  miles 
away,  and  Tung  Chow,  a walled  city  eighty  miles  distant,  with  a 
population  of  eighty  thousand.  He  is  a member  of  the  committee 
for  the  revision  of  the  New  Testament.  In  addition  to  all  these 
duties,  he  directs  the  labors  of  ten  colporteurs,  and  is  the  treasurer 
of  the  mission.  W.  P.  Bentley  and  wife  are  at  home  on  account  of 
sickness.  Their  home  on  the  field  is  in  Shanghai.  He  had  work  in 
Tsa-Sao  and  in  Yang-Iving.  He  went  out  into  the  country  twice  a 
month.  He  edited  the  Chinese  department  in  The  Intelligencer, 
and  was  General  Secretary  of  the  Endeavor  work  in  China.  In 
Shanghai  he  had  charge  of  the  weekly  prayer-meeting  and  of  the 
mid-week  preaching.  C.  E.  Molland  lives  in  Wuhu.  He  preaches 
every  day  in  the  street  chapel  and  conducts  all  the  regular  services 
of  the  church.  He  superintends  the  teaching  in  the  day  school. 
As  he  has  opportunity  he  goes  out  into  the  villages  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  city.  T.  J.  Arnold  also  lives  in  YVuhu,  but  works  altogether 
in  the  country.  He  goes  west  as  far  as  Wu  Wei  Cheo  and  Lu  Cheo 
Fu.  He  usually  goes  in  a house  boat.  His  district  has  a popula- 
tion of  six  millions. 

Miss  Lyon  has  services  with  the  women  in  the  hospital  every 
morning,  and  visits  them  from  time  to  time.  She  teaches  one  class 
in  the  college.  Every  afternoon,  except  Wednesday,  she  goes  to 
the  chapel  and  talks  to  the  women.  On  Wednesday  she  has  a 
prayer  service.  She  has  a Sunday-school  for  small  children. 
Some  of  the  most  advanced  students  in  the  college  help.  She 
receives  visits  from  the  women,  and  explains  the  Gospel  and  the 
aims  and  motives  of  the  missionaries  in  coming  to  China.  She 
returns  the  calls  of  the  women.  This  takes  no  little  time,  as  they 
come  some  days  in  a stream.  Mrs.  Rose  Sickler  Williams  assists  in 
the  Sunday  services  at  the  South  Gate,  and  teaches  a Bible  class 
after  the  communion.  She  makes  weekly  visits  to  Hsia  Kwan  and 
talks  to  the  women.  While  she  was  talking  recently,  one  of  the 
women  was  so  moved  that  she  said  she  would  bind  her  child’s  feet 
no  more.  Then  and  there  she  proceeded  to  take  off  the  bandages. 
She  superintends  a Bible  woman  who  works  among  the  neighbors, 
and  translates  school  books  for  the  Educational  Association.  She 
gives  six  hours  a day  to  Edward  and  Loos.  There  is  no  public 
school  in  Nankin  to  which  children  can  be  sent.  Mrs.  Ware  has  a 


CHINESE  GAMBLING. 


A RAILWAY  IN  CHINA. 


WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  CHINA 


177 


Bible  class  for  women  on  Monday  on  Seward  Road,  and  another  on 
Wednesday  on  Yangtszepoo  Road.  She  looks  after  the  school  for 
girls,  and  receives  and  returns  the  visits  of  Chinese  women.  Mrs. 
Hearnden  hopes  to  start  a girls’  school  in  Chu  Cheo.  She  and 
Mrs.  Hunt  work  among  the  women  as  they  are  able.  Mrs.  Hunt 
goes  with  her  husband  into  the  country,  and  carries  the  Word  of 
life  into  the  homes  of  the  people.  Mrs.  Meigs,  Mrs.  Macklin,  Mrs. 
Molland  and  Mrs.  Arnold  have  small  children  and  household  cares. 
They  assist  in  the  work  as  they  can,  but  they  find  it  impossible  to 
do  all  they  wish.  They  feel  that  they  must  not  neglect  their 

children. 

Several  evangelists  are  engaged.  Thus  Chu  works  at  the  South 
Gate,  Nankin;  Ni  works  at  Seward  Road,  Shanghai;  Shi  works  at 
Yu-Ho-Tsz;  Ivu  is  now  at  Tung  Chow;  Zi  is  across  the  river.  Mrs. 
Ware  has  a Bible  woman  who  has  an  interesting  history.  Her  sons 
are  able  to  support  her.  As  she  is  old,  they  wish  here  to  retire. 
She  says,  “I  must  tell  the  people  of  Jesus  while  I live;  I shall 
have  plenty  of  time  to  rest  in  heaven.”  She  has  led  eighty  or 
ninety  into  the  church.  Sometimes  she  weeps  because  the  people 
are  so  indifferent.  She  says:  “I  don’t  mind  their  treating  me 

roughly,  but  it  makes  me  sad  because  they  treat  Jesus  so  badly.” 
The  work  has  several  needs.  The  college  needs  a dormitory. 
This  will  cost  $1,500.  President  Meigs  wishes  to  start  an  Industrial 
Department.  He  wants  to  teach  the  students  printing  or  binding 
or  engraving.  An  oil  engine  and  a press  will  cost  $300.  The 
pupils  must  not  be  pauperized.  They  must  be  taught  to  work  and 
to  rely  on  their  own  resources.  More  workers  are  needed,  so  that 
if  one  or  two  break  down  the  work  may  go  on.  Dr.  Macklin  needs 
a trained  nurse  for  the  hospital.  Miss  Lyon  needs  an  associate. 
The  work  among  the  women  and  children  is  too  great  for  her.  Dr. 
Butchart  needs  an  evangelist  to  go  with  him  to  the  city  where  he  is 
to  open  his  work.  Buildings  are  needed.  Thus  far  four  families 
live  in  rented  houses.  The  rent  would  pay  for  buildings  in  a few 
years.  Not  only  so,  but  the  health  of  the  workers  would  be  better. 
Chinese  houses  have  no  floors,  and  are  only  one  story  high.  It  is 
expedient  to  sleep  upstairs  so  as  to  get  away  from  the  malaria. 
Schools  and  chapels  are  needed.  We  have  no  property  in  Shang- 
hai. Business  men  have  invested  millions  in  factories,  banks, 
hotels,  stores,  godowns,  clubs  and  homes.  Anyone  who  walks 
through  Shanghai,  or  Hankow,  or  Tientsin,  or  Hong-Kong,  will  be 
surprised  at  the  magnificent  buildings  seen  everywhere.  The 

money  invested  in  mission  property  is  trifling  in  comparison. 

12 


178 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


We  have  reason  to  be  grateful  to  God  for  the  workers  he  has 
given  us  in  China.  They  compare  favorably  in  natural  ability  and 
education  and  consecration  with  any  I have  seen.  The  measure  of 
success  that  has  rewarded  their  labors  calls  for  an  enlargement  of 
effort.  We  must  send  out  more  men  and  women,  and  thoroughly 
equip  them  for  the  most  effective  prosecution  of  the  work.  So 
shall  we  be  blessed,  and  so  shall  we  become  a blessing. 


XXVIII. 


SOME  CURIOUS  THINGS  IN  CHINA. 

One  of  the  first  things  that  strike  a visitor  as  strange  is  the  way 
the  people  dress  their  hair.  The  men  shave  all  the  head  except 
the  crown.  The  hair  there  is  allowed  to  grow  as  long  as  it  will. 
It  is  braided  and  allowed  to  fall  down  the  back.  Usually  it  reaches 
to  the  ground.  The  owner  will  piece  it  out  if  necessary.  This  is  a 
Tartar  fashion.  The  Chinese  were  compelled  to  adopt  it  as  a sign 
of  subjection.  Now  they  are  proud  of  their  queues.  Women  wear 
their  hair  in  different  ways.  One  can  tell  at  a glance  at  the  hair 
whether  the  woman  is  a maiden  “heart  whole  and  fancy  free,”  or 
is  engaged,  or  is  married. 

Another  curious  thing  is  the  way  the  women  compress  their 
feet.  The  smaller  they  are  the  prouder  the  owner  is  of  them. 
They  are  bandaged  in  early  life  and  their  growth  arrested.  The 
Chinese  say:  “ It  is  very  important  that  the  feet  should  be  bound 

so  that  they  can  walk  beautifully,  with  mincing  step,  swaying  grace- 
fully, thus  showing  to  all  that  they  are  pei’sons  of  respectability.” 
The  origin  of  this  custom  is  in  doubt.  Some  cynics  say  that  jeal- 
ous husbands  invented  it  to  keep  their  wives  from  gadding  about 
too  much.  Another  theory  is  that  a favorite  Empress  had  a club 
foot,  and  the  women  of  the  court  crippled  their  feet  that  they 
might  resemble  hers.  In  marriage  arrangements  one  of  the  first 
questions  asked  is  as  to  the  size  of  the  woman’s  feet.  This  is  of 
greater  consequence  than  her  beauty,  or  health,  or  fortune,  or  dis- 
position. If  the  “ golden  lilies  ” are  only  three  inches  long  the 
arrangements  can  proceed.  Women  belonging  to  the  laboring 
classes  do  not  compress  their  feet.  If  they  did  they  could  not  do 
their  work.  The  Manchu  women  do  not  follow  this  fashion.  For 
two  hundred  and  fifty  years  the  court  influence  has  been  against  this 
foolish  and  hurtful  practice.  But  it  has  had  no  effect  whatever. 
The  Chinese  women,  when  spoken  to  on  the  subject,  say  that  Chris- 
tian women  compress  their  waists.  No  doubt  this  is  more  injuri- 
ous than  bandaging  the  feet.  The  one  evil  is  as  hard  to  cure  as  the 
other. 

One  of  the  strangest  things  seen  in  China  is  the  long  finger- 

179 


180 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


nails  worn  by  certain  classes.  It  is  not  an  unusual  thing  to  see- 
nails  an  inch  and  a half  or  two  inches  long.  All  the  nails  are  not 
of  this  length.  They  could  not  well  be.  Silver  sheaths  are  worn 
to  protect  them.  These  nails  show  beyond  question  that  they  do 
no  manual  labor.  They  belong  to  the  leisure  class.  Work  is  for 
coolies  and  for  those  who  have  not  taken  literary  degrees.  School 
boys  write  essays  on  the  “ Dignity  of  Labor.”  That  is  very  well. 
But  aristocracies  of  all  kinds  prefer  that  all  labor  should  be  per- 
formed by  other  hands  than  theirs. 

Men  and  women  dress  much  alike.  Both  wear  trousers  and 
jackets.  The  skirts  of  the  women  are  not  as  long  as  those  worn 
by  the  men.  The  Chinese  do  not  use  stoves  to  warm  their  houses. 
The  front  of  their  houses  is  usually  open.  The  family  live  largely 
in  public.  They  carry  small  stoves  in  their  sleeves  and  so  keep 
their  hands  warm.  When  they  sit  down  in  their  homes  or  travel, 
they  have  a stove  at  their  feet.  The  brick  platform  on  which  they 
sleep  has  an  opening  under  it.  This  is  filled  with  dry  grass  and 
set  on  fire.  In  this  way  the  bed  is  warmed.  Instead  of  warming 
their  houses,  the  Chinese  put  on  more  clothing.  They  put  on  one 
suit  over  another  till  they  seem  twice  their  real  size.  They  have  on 
five  or  six  suits  at  a time.  The  suits  are  padded  and  so  are  very 
thick  and  warm.  They  take  them  off  in  the  spring  gradually.  In 
summer  most  of  the  people  wear  nothing  at  all  on  their  heads.  Some 
wear  a skull  cap  with  a button  on  the  top.  The  women  never  wear 
anything  approaching  the  millinery  of  the  West.  There  are  no 
large  bills  for  husbands  to  pay  for  spring  or  winter  bonnets.  A few 
wear  a band  around  their  heads,  but  it  is  a simple  and  inexpensive 
affair. 

The  Chinese  have  a superstitious  regard  for  printed  paper.  In 
school-rooms,  shops,  private  residences,  by  the  roadside,  and  in  the 
temples,  are  baskets  or  boxes  designed  for  the  reception  of  scraps 
of  printed  paper  picked  up  anywhere.  It  matters  not  what  it  is 
that  is  printed;  the  characters  are  sacred.  Men  go  about  the 
streets  picking  up  every  scrap  in  sight.  These  are  burned  and  the 
ashes  thrown  into  the  sea.  The  Chinese  say  that  when  letters 
were  invented  heaven  rejoiced  and  hell  trembled.  “ He  who  uses 
lettered  paper  to  kindle  the  fire  will  have  ten  demerits,  and  will 
have  itchy  sores;  he  who  tosses  lettered  paper  into  dirty  water, 
or  burns  it  in  a filthy  place,  will  have  twenty  demerits,  and  will  fre- 
quently have  sore  eyes  or  become  blind.  He  who  goes  about  and 
collects,  washes  and  burns  lettered  paper,  has  five  thousand  merits, 
adds  twelve  years  to  his  life,  will  become  honored  and  wealthy,  and 


SOME  CURIOUS  THINGS  IN  CHINA 


181 


his  children  and  grandchildren  will  become  virtuous  and  filial.” 
One  of  the  things  for  which  they  reproach  foreigners  is  that  they 
have  no  regard  for  printed  paper.  They  think  this  a sure  sign 
of  a want  of  right  feelings. 

The  Chinese  have  many  ways  of  laying  up  merit  in  the  future 
world.  Thus,  one  may  buy  crabs  or  shrimps  or  fish  that  are  offered 
for  sale  and  put  them  back  into  the  sea.  That  can  easily  be  done, 
as  they  are  generally  alive  when  sold.  There  are  in  China  asylums 
for  animals.  One  who  wishes  to  perform  a meritorious  act  can 
go  to  market  and  purchase  sheep  or  pigs  or  fowls,  and  save  them 
from  the  butcher’s  knife.  These  can  be  placed  in  the  asylums. 
Free  ferries  have  been  established,  schools  and  orphanages  have 
been  opened,  the  hungry  have  been  fed,  and  all  with  a view  to 
secure  a higher  existence  in  the  life  to  come.  Certain  acts  have  an 
ascertained  value.  Thus,  to  dig  a well  or  repair  a road  ranks  as  ten. 
To  give  enough  ground  for  a grave  ranks  as  thirty.  To  set  on  foot 
some  scheme  for  the  public  good  ranks  still  higher.  Other  acts 
are  counted  against  the  doer.  If  a man  levels  a grave  he  will  be 
charged  with  fifty  demerits;  if  he  digs  up  a corpse,  with  one  hun- 
dred; if  he  cuts  off  one’s  male  heirs,  with  two  hundred.  I saw  an 
old  priest  on  his  way  from  Peking  to  a famous  temple  in  the  south. 
He  was  making  the  pilgrimage  on  foot.  When  asked  why  he  was 
doing  this,  he  said  he  wanted  to  lay  up  a store  of  merit.  He  was 
afraid  if  he  did  not  he  would  be  an  animal  in  the  next  life. 

The  Chinese  have  peculiar  notions  about  suicide.  If  one  has 
had  a quarrel  with  another,  or  has  been  deeply  injured  by  him, 
instead  of  killing  the  enemy,  he  will  kill  himself.  If  possible,  he 
will  destroy  himself  in  the  house  or  at  the  door  or  on  the  premises 
of  the  man  who  has  done  him  the  wrong.  In  that  case  he  makes 
his  enemy  responsible  for  his  death,  and  amenable  to  the  law  for 
the  crime  of  murder.  Not  only  so,  but  as  a disembodied  spirit  he 
can  have  his  revenge  both  while  his  enemy  lives  and  after  his  death, 
as  he  could  not  while  in  the  flesh.  It  is  a most  terrible  thing  to 
have  one  commit  suicide  on  one’s  premises,  or  on  one’s  account. 
No  blame  attaches  to  the  dead.  Suicide  is  honorable.  This  for- 
midable weapon  is  always  in  the  hands  of  the  weak.  It  is  a protec- 
tion against  many  evils.  If  a wife  is  neglected  on  account  of  a 
favorite  in  the  harem,  she  can  have  effective  redress.  If  a second- 
ary wife  or  a daughter-in-law  is  cruelly  dealt  with,  she  can  have 
her  revenge.  Dr.  Macklin  saved  a man  who  had  tried  to  take  his 
own  life  because  of  some  real  or  fancied  injury  of  a neighbor.  I 
think  his  dog  bit  him.  As  the  Doctor  bound  up  his  wound,  he 


182 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


said,  “ If  I had  died  I would  have  made  it  interesting  for  him.'9 

Begging  is  a profession.  The  beggars  have  guilds  as  other  jiro- 
fessions  have.  Certain  streets  are  assigned  to  certain  ones.  A 
merchant  can  secure  freedom  from  their  visits  by  paying  so  much  a 
year.  The  beggars  go  about  and  ask  for  one  cash.  They  go  into 
the  stores  and  ring  bells  or  beat  gongs.  In  Canton  I saw  a man 
with  a snake  six  or  eight  feet  long.  This  reptile  was  trained  to 
dart  out  its  tongue.  As  a last  resort,  the  beggars  begin  to  sing.  If 
any  one  has  heard  Chinese  music  at  its  worst  or  best,  he  will  readi- 
ly believe  that  the  merchant  capitulates,  sooner  or  later.  Some- 
times a man  draws  a knife  and  cuts  himself.  A crowd  gathers, 
blood  flows,  and  the  shopkeeper  gives  him  a cash  to  get  rid  of  him. 
He  goes  to  the  next  place  and  repeats  the  performance  with  the 
same  result.  In  Peking  I saw  a hundred  men  in  line  before  a bank. 
That  day  every  beggar  was  entitled  to  a cash;  other  days  they  go  to 
other  banks.  It  is  not  creditable  to  drive  them  out  or  send  them 
away  empty.  Moreover,  it  is  not  safe  to  do  so.  They  will  watch 
their  opportunity.  At  a wedding  or  funeral  they  will  pour  in  and 
fill  the  house  and  defile  everything.  Beggars  sit  on  the  roadside. 
Some  are  blind  or  deformed  or  diseased.  Mr.  Saw  gave  an  old 
lady  a liberal  offering.  She  got  down  on  her  knees  and  kotowed 
nine  times. 

In  China  the  aged  are  congratulated  rather  than  the  young. 
The  older  one  is  the  more  he  is  respected.  A man  with  a long 
white  beard  is  regarded  almost  as  a god.  It  is  not  an  uncommon 
thing  for  a man  who  has  reached  the  age  of  four  score  to  be 
reported  to  the  Emperor.  The  Son  of  Heaven  may  permit  his 
family  or  friends  to  erect  a tablet  in  his  honor  at  their  own  expense. 
In  Western  lands  people  try  to  keep  young.  Ages  are  marked 
down  as  are  the  prices  of  shop-worn  goods.  In  China  age  is  prized, 
not  youth.  If  the  record  is  falsified,  it  is  done  by  adding  several 
years.  New  Year  is  everybody’s  birthday.  If  a child  was  born 
the  last  day  of  the  old  year,  he  is  counted  two  years  old  on  New 
Year’s  day.  A recent  traveler  in  China  states  that  he  began  as  a 
stripling  with  neither  child  nor  wTife.  In  six  months  he  had  several 
■wives,  a dozen  or  two  of  children,  and  several  grandchildren.  He 
changes  the  records  to  please  the  people.  The  three  New  Year’s 
wishes  are  for  “children,  rank  and  longevity.” 

It  is  customary  when  speaking  to  disparage  everything  belonging 
to  one’s  self  and  to  magnify  everything  belonging  to  the  person 
addressed.  More  than  any  other  people  the  Chinese  obey  the  pre- 
cept, “In  honor  preferring  one  another.”  When  two  men  meet 


SOME  C UBIOUS  THINGS  IN  CHINA 


183 


the  conversation  is  about  as  follows:  “ What  is  your  noble  name?  ” 

“My  worthless  name  is  Li.”  “Where  is  your  splendid  mansion?” 
“My  mean  hut  is  in  the  next  province.”  “What  is  your  exalted 
longevity?”  “My  miserable  years  number  only  sixty-eight.”  “Is 
the  distinguished  lady  still  living?”  “The  addle-pated  person  of 
the  inner  apartments  is  still  alive.”  “ How  many  princes  have 
you?”  “Two  stupid  little  curs.”  “Are  the  princes  doing  well  at 
school?”  “The  contemptible  puppies  have  learned  a few  charac- 
ters.” How  much  of  this  is  formal,  and  how  much  is  sincere,  it  is 
not  for  a stranger  to  say. 

Chinese  women  do  not  count  for  much.  When  young  they  are 
required  to  wait  on  their  parents.  After  marriage  they  are  to  wait 
on  their  parents-in-law.  There  are  few  schools  for  girls,  except 
those  founded  by  missionaries.  The  Chinese  have  a contempt  for 
the  capacity  of  the  female  mind.  It  is  a rare  thing  for  a woman  to 
be  able  to  sign  her  own  name.  It  is  exceptional  when  a man  can 
not.  Ask  a father  how  many  children  he  has,  and  he  will  not  count 
his  daughters.  Boys  are  often  dressed  as  girls.  This  is  done  to 
protect  them  against  evil  spirits.  Girls  are  not  worth  carrying 
away.  The  ancients  taught  that  boys  and  girls  ought  not  to  sit  on 
the  same  mat  or  eat  together  after  they  are  seven  years  of  age. 
Even  their  clothes  should  not  hang  on  the  same  pegs.  She  is  mar- 
ried to  a man  whom  she  has  never  seen.  She  has  no  choice  in  the 
matter.  A virtuous  wife  is  taught  not  to  go  beyond  the  threshold 
of  her  husband’s  house  alone.  She  needs  some  one  to  protect  her 
against  “water,  fire  and  fools.”  She  can  marry  but  once.  This 
rule  does  not  apply  to  the  male  sex.  The  sages  taught  that  man  is 
as  high  above  woman  as  heaven  is  above  the  earth.  When  a woman 
becomes  a mother  or  a mother-in-law  or  a grandmother,  her  posi- 
tion changes  greatly.  She  passes  from  a slave  into  a goddess. 
But  even  beyond  the  grave  she  is  to  wait  on  her  husband.  In 
churches  men  sit  on  one  side  and  women  on  the  other.  In  some 
churches  there  is  a high  screen  in  the  central  aisle  to  prevent 
flirtation  and  even  seeing.  This  is  in  deference  to  Chinese 
sentiment. 

There  are  many  other  curious  things  in  this  strange  land.  They 
clean  the  streets  once  in  thirty  years.  Dirt  superabounds.  No  one 
cares.  Pestilence  is  caused  by  some  evil  spirit.  Friends  shake 
their  own  hands  when  they  meet.  A man  keeps  his  hat  on  in  token 
of  respect  to  a caller.  He  takes  off  his  glasses  for  the  same  reason. 
The  Chinese  locate  the  intellect  in  the  stomach.  A proverb  says, 
“You  can  row  a boat  in  the  interior  of  a broad-minded  man.” 


184 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Soldiers  carry  fans  and  umbrellas  on  duty.  Full-grown  men  fly 
kites.  Women  smoke  as  well  as  men.  The  left  hand  is  the  seat  of 
honor.  The  host  will  not  sit  down  before  his  guest.  White  is  the 
color  worn  in  mourning.  Blue  is  worn  when  the  mourning  season 
is  half  over.  Red  is  the  color  worn  on  festal  occasions.  Brides 
weep  and  wail,  and  pull  out  their  eyebrows.  The  soles  of  shoes 
are  whitened,  whereas  ours  are  blackened.  Tea  is  drunk  in  all 
places  and  at  all  hours;  the  Chinese  never  drink  cold  water.  Tea 
is  served  without  sugar  or  cream.  These  people  never  use  butter 
or  cheese  or  milk,  and  are  disgusted  when  foreigners  do.  It  is  not 
unusual  to  ennoble  a man’s  ancestors.  This  is  done  instead  of 
ennobling  his  descendants.  Sir  Robert  Hart’s  ancestors  for  five 
generations  were  ennobled  on  account  of  his  services.  China  has 
no  hereditary  aristocracy,  or  almost  none.  Men  quarrel  about  one 
cash.  Angry  words  are  heard,  accompanied  with  violent  and 
threatening  gestures.  Meanwhile  their  eyes  are  in  a fine  frenzy 
rolling.  You  expect  that  bones  will  be  broken  and  perhaps  two 
valuable  lives  taken.  But  no.  These  men  were  talking  to  keep  up 
pretenses.  The  storm  blew  over  and  the  whole  affair  was  as  blood- 
less as  a French  duel.  A Chinese  will  not  admit  that  there  is  any 
limit  to  his  information.  He  has  an  answer  for  every  question. 
The  Classics  contain  all  truth.  There  is  no  need  of  any  other  book. 
A Western  man  will  admit  that  thei’e  are  some  things  that  he  does 
not  know;  a Chinese  never  does.  He  can  not  afford,  as  a citizen  of 
the  Middle  Flowery  Kingdom,  not  to  be  omniscient.  On  New  Year’s 
Day  all  debts  are  settled.  The  kitchen  god  is  burned.  Before  this 
is  done  his  lips  are  smeared  pvith  molasses  that  he  may  tell  a sweet 
tale.  Men  plow  with  a cow  and  an  ass;  or  with  a cow,  an  ox,  or  an 
ass;  or  with  a cow  and  two  asses.,  or  with  a mule,  an  ass,  and  a calf. 
Much  of  the  life  of  the  people  is  out  of  doors.  You  see  cobblers, 
tinners,  blacksmiths,  druggists,  washerwomen,  and  caterers,  plying 
their  vocations  on  the  streets.  Books  are  different  from  ours. 
The  first  page  is  where  we  have  the  last.  The  lines  run  from  the 
top  of  the  page  to  the  bottom.  They  begin  at  the  right  hand. 
Portals  are  erected  to  women  who  refused  marriage  that  they  might 
wait  on  their  parents,  or  to  women  who  committed  suicide  on 
account  of  a husband’s  death.  If  a son  kills  a parent  he  is  put  to 
death  and  the  house  torn  down.  His  nearest  neighbors  are  pun- 
ished, his  school-master  is  put  to  death,  the  magistrate  of  the  dis- 
trict suffers,  and  the  governor  of  the  province  goes  down  in  rank. 
Many  other  curious  things  could  be  mentioned,  but  these  are  suffi- 
cient. In  many  respects  they  resemble  the  Anglo-Saxons.  In  their 


SOME  CURIOUS  THINGS  IN  CHINA 


185 


fancied  superiority,  in  the  energy  and  ability  to  adapt  themselves  to 
their  environment,  in  their  love  of  money  and  power  to  make  and 
keep  it,  in  their  sins  and  sorrows  and  need  of  a Savior,  in  their 
capacity  to  accept  Jesus  Christ  as  Savior  and  Lord,  and  to  be  jus- 
tified, and  sanctified,  and  glorified  through  him,  they  make  it  evi- 
dent that  they  belong  to  the  same  race  as  ourselves. 


XXIX. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE. 

Among  the  nations  China  ranks  third  in  area  and  second  in  pop- 
ulation. She  is  surpassed  in  area  by  the  British  and  Russian 
Empires;  in  population,  by  the  British  only.  China  proper  has  an 
area  of  2,000,000  square  miles.  That  is  to  say,  she  is  equal  in  size 
to  all  the  States  east  of  the  Mississippi,  with  Texas,  Arkansas,  Mis- 
souri and  Iowa  added.  Including  Manchuria  and  her  colonial  pos- 
sessions, China  has  an  ai'ea  of  nearly  5,000,000  square  miles.  Her 
coast  line  is  4,400  miles  in  length.  Three  great  river  systems  drain 
the  country.  These  are  the  Yangtsze,  the  Yellow,  and  the  Pearl. 
She  has  mountains  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  wide  and  sandy 
plains,  and  fertile  valleys.  In  size,  in  position,  and  in  her  water 
courses,  China  is  not  unlike  the  United  States.  The  mineral 
resources  are  varied  and  abundant.  Thus  far  they  have  not  been 
developed  on  a large  scale.  A goodly  part  of  the  land  yields  two 
crops  a year;  certain  parts  yield  three.  The  principal  products  are 
rice,  cotton,  sugar-cane,  tobacco,  wheat,  millet,  corn,  tea,  sweet 
potatoes,  beans,  garlic,  peas,  turnips,  grapes,  peaches,  oranges, 
bananas,  apricots,  watermelons  and  peanuts.  The  chief  articles  of 
export  are  tea  and  silk.  The  Chinese  are  constantly  fertilizing 
their  fields.  Nothing  is  allowed  to  go  to  waste.  They  collect 
bones,  soot,  hair  in  barber-shops,  exploded  fire-crackers,  sweepings 
of  the  streets,  mud  from  the  bottom  of  canals,  offal  of  every  kind, 
and  the  sewage  of  cities.  As  a result, soil  that  has  been  under  culti- 
vation thousands  of  years  is  as  productive  as  it  ever  was. 

China  proper  is  divided  into  eighteen  provinces.  These  are  sub- 
divided into  prefectures,  and  these  again  into  districts.  Each 
division  has  its  own  capital.  A provincial  capital  has  a population 
of  about  1,000,000;  a prefectural  capital  a population  from  100,000 
to  800,000,  while  district  capitals  may  have  only  a few  thousand. 
These  capitals  are  all  walled  cities.  According  to  Nevius,  there  are 
1,700  of  these  in  the  Empire.  In  the  great  cities  there  are  Tartar 
garrisons.  The  Tartars  live  in  a part  of  the  city  walled  off  from 
the  Chinese  part.  The  Tartars  are  all  pensioned,  and  are  regarded 

as  bulwarks  of  the  reigning  house. 

186 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE 


187 


It  is  believed  now  by  scholars  that  the  Chinese  came  from 
ancient  Elam.  Before  Abram  left  Chaldea  to  go  west,  the  ances- 
tors of  the  present  Chinese  went  east,  and  in  course  of  time  settled 
in  the  land  in  which  they  now  dwell.  It  may  have  taken  centuries 
to  drive  out  or  to  absorb  the  aboriginal  races  and  to  appropriate 
their  territories.  If  this  view  is  correct,  China  saw  the  rise  of 
Assyria  and  Babylon,  of  Persia,  Greece  and  Rome.  The  nations  of 
Europe  are  of  yesterday  as  compared  with  her.  There  have  been 
twenty-four  dynasties,  but  the  people  and  their  institutions  are  sub- 
stantially now  what  they  were  two  thousand  years  before  the  birth 
of  Christ.  An  empire  containing  one-fourth  of  the  human  family, 
an  empire  incomparably  the  oldest  in  existence,  challenges  the 
attention  of  all  students  of  history. 

In  theory  the  government  is  an  absolutism.  The  Emperor  is  the 
Son  of  Heaven.  There  is  no  Congress  or  Parliament  representing 
the  people.  Two  councils  give  advice  to  the  Emperor.  Under 
these  councils  are  the  Six  Boards.  These  relate  to  civil  office,  reve- 
nue, rites,  war,  punishment  and  works.  Beside  the  Central  Gov- 
ernment in  Peking,  there  are  a dozen  Viceroys.  These  rule  over 
one  or  two  provinces.  They  levy  armies,  own  and  control  gun- 
boats, coin  money,  and  do  other  things  that  are  usually  done  by  the 
supreme  power.  There  are  under  the  Viceroys  Governors  of  prov- 
inces  and  other  officers,  and  under  these  Prefects,  and  under  the 
Prefects  Hsiens.  While  the  Emperor  is  the  Son  of  Heaven,  he  is 
under  laws  which  cannot  be  broken  or  evaded.  The  people  know 
their  rights,  and,  though  they  are  patient  under  oppression  and 
unjust  taxation,  they  have  more  than  a score  of  times  risen  against 
their  superiors  and  changed  the  dynasty.  There  is  no  office  below 
the  throne  to  which  the  humblest  child  in  the  Empire  may  not 
aspire.  There  is  no  aristocracy  in  China  save  that  of  learning. 
Those  who  win  the  prizes  in  the  competitive  examinations,  and  they 
only,  fill  all  the  offices.  The  Emperor  cannot  appoint  his  favorites 
to  these  positions. 

The  Chinese  prize  learning  above  everything  else.  The  scholars 
occupy  the  first  place.  After  them  come  the  farmers,  the  artisans, 
and  the  traders,  and  in  this  order.  The  Mandarins  dress  in  silk, 
and  are  housed  in  palaces.  When  they  go  out  they  have  an  impos- 
ing retinue.  The  people  gladly  make  way  for  their  chairs  to  pass. 
The  man  in  the  chair  was  not  born  in  wealth.  He  was  not  pro- 
moted by  the  caprice  of  the  Emperor.  He  rose  to  that  position  by 
his  own  exertions.  He  passed  the  examinations,  and  now  there  is 
nothing  that  he  cannot  do.  He  can  lead  armies,  direct  navies, 


188 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


administer  justice,  supervise  public  works,  sit  in  either  of  the 
Councils,  and  give  advice  to  the  Son  of  Heaven.  These  examina- 
tions are  a unique  feature  of  Chinese  life.  Once  a year  in  each  dis- 
trict an  examination  is  held.  About  one  in  a hundred  gets  a 
degree.  Once  in  three  years  those  who  won  the  first  degree  repair 
to  the  provincial  capital  for  a far  more  searching  examination.  Of 
these  again  about  one  per  cent,  are  successful.  The  next  year  in 
Peking  those  who  won  the  second  degree  are  examined  a third 
time.  Those  that  take  the  third  degree  are  chosen  by  lot  to  fill  the 
first  vacancies  that  occur.  Those  that  win  the  third  degree  com- 
pete for  positions  in  the  Hanlin  Academy.  This  contest  is  under 
the  eye  and  direction  of  the  Emperor.  About  twenty  of  the  best 
are  selected  for  this  honor.  Out  of  the  twenty  that  win  this  prize 
the  best  is  appointed  laureate.  He  is  the  one  bright  consummate 
flower  of  the  nation.  He  is  the  ornament  of  the  reigning  dynasty. 
Dr.  Martin  says:  “Provinces  contend  for  this  prize.  The  town 

that  gave  birth  to  the  victor  is  noted  forever.  Swift  heralds  bear  the 
tidings  of  his  triumph,  and  the  hearts  of  the  people  leap  at  their 
approach.  We  have  seen  them  enter  a humble  cottage,  and  amidst 
the  flaunting  of  banners  and  the  blare  of  trumpets  announce  to  its 
startled  inmates  that  one  of  their  relations  had  been  crowned  by  the 
Emperor  as  the  laureate  of  the  year.”  The  daughter  of  a laui’eate 
has  been  deemed  worthy  of  being  an  Empress.  In  the  same  hall 
grandfathers,  fathers  and  sons  may  compete.  Men  have  succeeded 
when  they  were  past  fourscore.  The  prize  is  worth  a life  of  study 
and  toil. 

While  the  Chinese  prize  learning,  it  is  not  what  we  mean  by 
learning.  They  are  not  examined  in  arithmetic,  grammar,  chemis- 
try, physics,  general  history,  or  natui-al  science.  In  their  examina- 
tions the  competitors  are  to  write  essays  and  poems  on  some  sen- 
tence in  the  Classics.  They  must  write  in  a certain  style  to  win  the 
prize.  One  may  be  able  to  repeat  the  Classics  word  by  word,  and  be 
able  to  write  beautifully  on  a sentiment  found  in  them,  and  know 
little  else.  With  all  their  love  of  learning  they  are  not  well 
informed.  It  is  not  long  since  Chinese  maps  gave  almost  all  the 
land  on  the  globe  to  their  own  country.  England,  Holland,  Portu- 
gal, France,  Germany  and  India  were  small  islands  running  from 
north  to  south.  Africa  and  the  Americas  had  no  place.  China  was 
1,500  miles  square.  It  was  bordered  by  the  four  seas.  All  other 
nations  were  tributary  to  the  Son  of  Heaven.  Japan  is  spoken  of 
as  “ a rebel.” 

The  Chinese  are  industrious  and  economical.  They  work  as 


1.  Dr.  J.  C.  Kerr.  Canton.  China.  2.  Pandita  Ramabai.  Poona,  India. 

3.  Francis  Xavier. 


THREE  DISTINGUISHED  MISSIONARIES. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE 


189 


hard  and  live  on  as  little  as  any  other  people.  They  gather  grass 
on  the  hills  and  by  the  roadside  and  bean-stalks  for  fuel.  As  mer- 
chants they  are  very  successful.  They  seek  to  please  their  patrons. 
They  have  learned  that  honesty  is  the  best  policy.  Three-fourths 
of  the  business  of  Shanghai  is  done  by  them.  In  Hong-Kong, 
Singapore,  and  all  through  the  Archipelago,  the  Chinese  are  taking 
the  lead.  The  recent  legislation  in  Australia  and  America,  if  not  a 
confession  of  defeat,  is  not  a ptean  of  victory.  Sir  Frederick  Bruce 
said  that  Chinese  statesmen  were  equal  to  any  he  ever  met  in  any 
capital  in  Europe.  Dr.  Williamson  said:  “The  Chinese  are  the 

imperial  race  in  the  far  East.”  Moreover,  they  are  a literary  peo- 
ple. Their  works  of  history  are  numbered  by  the  thousand.  No 
one,  I think,  can  be  long  with  the  Chinese  and  despise  their  mental 
ability.  They  are  not  an  inferior  race. 

The  Chinese  are  a i-eligious  people.  Temples,  pagodas  and 
shrines  are  everywhere  seen.  The  boats  on  the  river,  the  kitchens 
and  the  wells  have  their  deities.  China  has  300,000  temples,  4,000,- 
000  idols,  and  spends  $400,000,000  a year  on  idolatry.  There  are 
three  religious  systems,  namely,  Confucianism,  Taoism  and  Bud- 
dhism. Confucius  was  born  B.  C.  551.  He  was  a transmitter,  not 
a maker.  He  emphasized  the  Five  Relations.  These  are  the  rela- 
tions of  emperor  and  officer,  father  and  son,  husband  and  wife, 
elder  and  younger  brother,  and  friends.  He  had  nothing  to  say 
about  man’s  relation  to  God.  The  Chinese  say,  “ Worship  the 
gods,  as  if  the  gods  were  there;  but  if  you  worship  them  not,  the 
gods  don’t  care.”  He  said  little  about  the  future.  “We  do  not 
know  life,  how  then  can  we  know  death?”  When  asked  for  one 
word  that  would  serve  as  a rule  of  life,  he  said,  “ Is  not  reciprocity 
such  a word?  Do  not  do  to  others  what  you  would  not  have  them 
to  do  to  you.”  Confucius  has  a temple  in  every  city  and  a tablet 
in  every  school  in  China.  In  the  temples  62,000  pigs,  sheep  and 
rabbits,  and  2,700  pieces  of  silk  are  annually  sacrificed  to  him. 
Taoism  is  a superstitious  system.  It  seeks  the  philosopher’s  stone 
and  the  elixir  of  life.  It  teaches  that  the  heart  is  to  be  cultivated 
by  retirement,  austerity  and  meditation.  The  body  is  to  be  disci- 
plined by  sitting  cross-legged,  swallowing  saliva,  rubbing  the  flesh, 
rolling  the  eyes,  and  gnashing  the  teeth.  The  elixir  of  life  is  found 
by  collecting  all  the  materials  and  putting  them  to  boil  in  a pot 
over  a fire  not  too  hot  or  too  cold,  for  eighty-one  years.  The 
Taoists  select  lucky  places  for  graves  and  the  exact  time  to  bury 
the  dead.  They  understand  all  about  the  Fung  iShui.  If  evil 
befalls  a family,  it  is  because  the  dead  are  unhappy.  They  were 


190 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


not  buried  properly  or  they  are  in  the  chamber  of  horrors  in  pur- 
gatory. In  either  case,  the  priest,  for  a consideration,  will  insure 
their  comfort  and  a return  of  prosperity.  The  Chinese  are  full 
of  superstition.  In  time  of  drought  they  will  pray  to  a snake. 
At  other  times  they  worship  the  fox,  the  weasel,  the  hedgehog  and 
the  rat.  To  them  the  air  is  full  of  evil  spirits.  They  believe  that 
these  spirits  can  cut  off  their  tails.  The  priests  furnish  charms 
that  will  protect  them  against  this  loss.  Bits  of  paper  and  bags 
of  beans  can  be  changed  into  soldiers.  Foreigners  can  see  mill- 
ions of  miles  into  the  sky  and  far  into  the  earth.  With  the  eyes 
of  the  Chinese  as  medicine,  they  can  turn  lead  into  silver.  Bud- 
dhism came  to  China  A.  D.  63.  Buddhism  proposes  to  give  peace 
by  eradicating  desire.  It  teaches  the  transmigration  of  souls. 
One  may  rise  to  a Buddha  or  sink  into  an  animal.  A woman 
can  enter  heaven  only  by  being  born  again  a man.  There  are  tem- 
ples of  the  three  religions.  Chinese  are  Confucianists,  Taoists  and 
Buddhists  at  the  same  time,  and  feel  no  sense  of  contradiction  or 
incongruity. 

The  principal  religion  of  China  is  ancestral  worship.  The 
Emperor  only  can  worship  the  Supreme  God.  The  people  have 
nothing  to  do  with  that;  they  worship  their  ancestors.  Confucius 
taught  them  that  of  all  the  actions  of  men  there  is  none  greater 
than  filial  piety.  They  revere  and  obey  their  parents  while  living. 
There  is  no  stigma  so  dreaded  as  that  of  “undutiful.”  When 
they  are  dead  their  children  are  to  worship  them.  Man  has  three 
souls.  One  goes  into  the  ancestral  tablet,  one  goes  into  the  coffin, 
and  the  third  goes  into  the  spirit  world.  Worship  is  carried  on 
before  the  tablet,  at  the  grave,  and  in  the  temples.  The  spirit 
needs  clothes,  food,  houses,  money,  candles  and  incense.  These 
are  offered.  Excepting  the  food,  the  other  articles  are  burned. 
It  is  the  duty  of  the  eldest  son  to  carry  on  this  worship.  The 
greatest  of  all  calamities  is  to  have  no  son.  Parents  seek  to  pro- 
vide against  this.  They  arrange  for  the  early  marriage  of  their 
children.  If  no  sons  are  born  in  a reasonable  time,  men  take 
secondary  wives.  It  is  this,  the  worship  of  ancestors,  that  makes 
the  Chinese  prefer  sons  to  daughters.  Girls  are  of  little  value. 
Frequently  no  name  is  given  them.  In  cases  of  infanticide  the 
victims  are  all  girls.  A daughter  never  inherits  property.  A bride 
is  a dove  because  of  her  quietness  and  stupidity.  There  is  no  rea- 
son why  her  husband  should  mourn  in  case  she  dies;  he  can  get 
another  within  a week.  The  ancestral  temple  is  the  most  sacred 
spot  on  earth.  Here  repose  the  spirits  of  one’s  ancestors.  Here 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE 


191 


his  own  spirit  will  repose  for  all  time.  If  he  dies  in  a foreign  land 
his  body  is  brought  back.  Otherwise,  his  spirit  will  be  unfed, 
unclothed,  unhoused,  and  wander  miserably  on  the  Plutonian  shore 
forever.  So  important  a thing  is  ancestral  worship  that  the  selec- 
tion of  an  heir  to  the  throne  is  regulated  by  it.  The  heir  must  in 
no  case  be  older  than  his  predecessor.  The  elder  cannot  worship 
the  younger.  Dr.  Yates  estimates  that  the  Chinese  spend  $150,- 
000,000  a year  on  this  worship.  Great  quantities  of  gilt  money  are 
made  and  sold.  It  is  exposed  in  every  store.  Dr.  Yates  holds  that 
ancestral  worship  is  the  chief  obstacle  to  the  spread  of  Chris- 
tianity. 

It  is  said  of  the  Chinese  that  their  literature  is  pure.  They  do 
not  sanctify  vice  as  was  done  in  Corinth  and  Phenice.  This  does 
not  mean  that  they  are  a pure  people,  but  it  does  mean  that  their 
standard  is  high.  They  do  not  call  evil  good.  There  are  things 
done  in  secret  that  are  not  to  be  reported  in  public.  They  do  not 
regard  lying  as  we  do.  Tell  a man  from  the  West  that  he  lies,  and 
he  will  regard  it  as  an  insult.  Tell  a Chinese  that  he  has  a fatal 
facility  for  lying  and  he  will  take  it  as  a compliment.  As  well 
expect  to  insult  him  by  telling  him  that  he  is  an  inveterate  joker. 
Polygamy  is  found  in  the  higher  circles.  There  is  very  little  of  it 
among  the  working  classes,  except  where  the  wife  has  borne  no 
sons.  But  even  then  there  is  only  one  lawful  wife.  The  children 
of  the  secondary  wife  are  her  children,  and  she  is  the  servant  of 
her  mistress,  even  as  Hagar  was  the  servant  of  Sarah.  Dr.  Will- 
iams says  that  polygamy  is  supported  by  the  wives  themselves. 
They  like  tcf  have  subordinates  to  wait  on  them  and  to  do  their 
work.  The  officials  are  polygamists  as  a rule.  They  are  a sensual 
and  unclean  lot.  All  the  daughters  of  the  Manchu  officers  pass 
before  the  Emperor  once  in  three  years.  He  selects  those  that 
please  him  for  his  harem.  The  Chinese  are  a race  of  gamblers. 
They  begin  in  infancy  and  keep  at  it  till  they  die.  They  stake 
their  property,  their  liberty,  their  wives  and  children  for  genera- 
tions on  a throw  of  the  dice. 

Above  all  other  peoples,  the  Chinese  are  conservative.  They 
do  not  believe  the  words  of  Tennyson: 

“The  old  order  changes,  giving  place  to  the  new, 

And  God  fulfills  himself  in  many  ways, 

Lest  one  good  custom  should  corrupt  the  world.” 

They  love  the  ancient.  They  seek  the  old  paths  and  walk 
thex-ein.  So  railways  are  opposed.  One  was  built  by  foreigners. 
The  Chinese  bought  it  and  tore  it  up.  So  in  a land  of  abundance 


192 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


3,000,000  starve  every  year.  Transportation  by  donkeys  takes  time 
and  costs  immensely.  The  railway  would  put  an  end  to  famines. 
Troops  could  be  moved  rapidly.  As  it  is,  a war  is  over  before  some 
of  the  troops  reach  the  field.  China  has  one  railway  of  some 
length  and  two  or  three  other  short  ones,  and  is  talking  of  building 
more.  But  the  conservatives  shake  their  heads  and  give  their  voice 
against  them.  China  has  no  imperial  post-office.  There  are  hun- 
dreds of  private  postal  systems.  They  are  managed  as  express 
companies  are  at  home.  The  Customs  service  forwards  letters  to 
open  ports  in  China,  but  does  not  handle  foreign  mail.  So  it  comes 
to  pass  that  it  takes  six  or  eight  months  for  letters  to  cross  China. 
Strangest  of  all,  China  has  no  free  public  schools.  There  are  a 
few  technical  and  naval  and  military  schools,  but  no  provision  is 
made  for  primary  education.  The  government  indirectly  encour- 
ages education,  but  leaves  the  people  to  employ  such  teachers  and 
to  adopt  such  courses  as  they  prefer.  As  a result,  one  man  in 
twenty  and  one  woman  in  ten  thousand  can  read  intelligently. 
This  is  Dr.  Martin’s  estimate.  There  are  thirty-one  papers  and 
periodicals.  Of  these  sixteen  are  secular  and  fifteen  religious. 
The  roads  are  j)oor.  Goods  are  carried  in  boats  or  on  camels  or 
mules  or  donkeys  or  on  wheelbaiTows.  Men  are  carried  in  chairs 
or  in  mule-litters. 

Dr.  Williams  says  that  a thousand  years  ago  China  was  the  most 
refined  nation  on  the  globe.  Other  nations  have  made  progress; 
she  has  gone  backward.  Why?  His  explanation  is  that  China  has 
not  the  Bible.  That  makes  the  difference.  China  has  ethics,  but 
her  system  of  ethics  has  no  root  in  I’eligion.  The  learned  men  are 
either  “ pantheists  or  atheists.”  They  worship  no  personal  God 
and  are  amenable  to  none.  One  would  think  the  Mandarins  would 
be  the  best  men  in  the  nation;  they  are  the  worst.  With  few  ex- 
ceptions they  are  devoid  of  patriotism.  Officialism  is  corrupt  from 
top  to  bottom.  Men  draw  pay  for  a thousand  soldiers  and  have  a 
hundred  enlisted.  They  take  pay  for  services  that  are  not  ren- 
dered. Ashes  are  sold  for  gunpowder.  Shells  are  filled  with  peas 
instead  of  steel.  There  are  no  checks  upon  official  corruption. 
Even  literary  degrees  can  be  bought.  China  needs  the  Gospel. 
She  has  tested  the  Three  Religions  for  millenniums,  and  has  found 
them  insufficient.  Like  the  woman  in  the  Gospel,  she  has  spent 
her  money,  but  has  grown  worse  instead  of  better.  There  is  one 
and  only  one  source  of  help.  The  Emperor  is  asking  the  old  ques- 
tion, “ What  must  I do  to  be  saved?”  The  old  answer  is  appropri- 
ate, “ Believe  in  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ  and  thou  shalt  be  saved, 
and  thine  house.” 


MISS  MAliY  JilOCII'i AN I)  CLASS  OF  GIRLS,  TOKYO,  JAPAN. 


XXX. 

FROM  HONG-KONG  TO  CALCUTTA. 

I left  Hong-Kong  on  the  Preussen.  This  is  a German  ship. 
She  runs  between  Hamburg  and  Japan,  calling  at  important  points 
on  the  way.  The  Germans  are  securing  a goodly  share  of  the  busi- 
ness of  the  far  East.  Their  success  is  alarming  those  "who  have 
borne  the  heat  and  burden  of  the  day.  They  are  civil  and  obliging, 
and  give  strict  attention  to  business.  Their  ships  are  large  and 
comfortable.  The  stewards  have  organized  a band,  and  play  every 
day  and  night.  This  is  a popular  feature.  The  music  breaks  the 
monotony  of  the  voyage  and  is  a real  refreshment.  For  several 
days  the  sea  was  rough.  Quite  a number  of  the  passengers  were 
sick.  All  sorts  of  remedies  were  suggested.  One  of  the  so-called 
infallible  cures  is  lager  beer.  One  man  never  knew  it  to  fail.  It 
did  not  help  in  this  case.  A victim  of  sea-sickness  drenched  him- 
self with  beer,  but  had  to  throw  it  up  in  a few  minutes.  Another 
suggested  that  if  the  sick  man  would  lie  down  with  his  feet  higher 
than  his  head,  he  would  find  relief  at  once.  Dr.  Butchart,  of  Nan- 
kin, says  he  knows  of  one  sure  cure,  and  only  one,  namely,  the 
shade  of  a tree.  For  those  like  me,  who  are  never  sick,  the  roll- 
ing of  a ship  is  rather  pleasant.  It  is  especially  so  at  night. 

“ Rocked  in  the  cradle  of  the  deep, 

I lay  me  down  in  peace  to  sleep; 

Secure  I rest  upon  the  wave, 

For  thou,  O Lord,  hast  power  to  save.” 

Our  first  call  was  at  Singapore.  The  island  on  which  this  city 
stands  was  bought  from  the  Sultan  of  Johore  by  the  British  in  1819. 
At  that  time  the  population  numbered  only  two  thousand ; now  it 
numbers  two  hundred  thousand.  Singapore  is  at  the  extreme  south- 
ern portion  of  Asia.  The  Malay  Peninsula  extends  from  Burma  to 
Singapore.  In  addition  to  Singapore,  the  British  own  Penang,  the 
Province  of  Wellesley,  Malacca  and  Dindings.  Six  of  the  native 
States  are  under  British  protection.  Wherever  the  British  rule 
the  people  prosper.  In  the  parts  of  the  Peninsula  under  their  con- 
trol the  population  numbers  four  hundred  to  the  square  mile; 
where  they  are  not  in  control  the  population  numbers  only  nine  to 

13  193 


194 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


the  square  mile.  The  roads  and  buildings,  and  aqueducts,  and 
dock,  and  the  ships  in  Singapore  are  sufficient  to  show  that  the 
natives  are  not  in  authority.  They  care  for  none  of  these  things. 

Singapore  is  a free  port.  People  are  here  from  all  parts  of  the 
globe.  On  the  streets  one  sees  Chinese,  Malays,  Japanese,  Hin- 
doos, Sikhs,  Madrasees,  Parsees,  Negroes,  Armenians,  Bui’mese, 
Egyptians,  Siamese,  Singhalese,  Tamils,  Jews,  Arabs  and  Euro- 
peans. The  Chinese  predominate.  They  number  one  hundred  and 
twenty-one  thousand.  They  have  the  bulk  of  the  land  and  wealth 
and  business.  There  are  several  Chinese  in  Singapore  worth  their 
millions.  Singapore  is  within  eighty  miles  of  the  equator.  The 
mercury  never  registers  higher  than  ninety-four  degrees  in  the 
shade.  The  weather  is  not  so  hot  as  one  would  expect,  but  it  is  hot 
enough.  There  are  no  seasons.  Singapore  is  the  land  where  eter- 
nal summer  reigns.  The  perennial  heat  enervates  the  system.  The 
natives  are  not  as  industrious  as  in  colder  climates.  They  need 
little  clothing.  Food  is  abundant  and  cheap.  Dr.  Oldham  says  a 
man  can  build  a house  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  He  can  sit  at 
home,  and  out  of  his  opened  window  catch  all  the  fish  he  needs. 
The  cocoanut  tree  never  fails  to  yield  a crop.  Tapioca  grows  wild, 
and  is  so  cheap  that  it  does  not  pay  to  cultivate  it.  When  urged  to 
work  and  rise  in  the  scale,  the  native  shakes  his  head  and  says,  “ It 
is  difficult.”  So  it  comes  to  pass  that  the  Chinese  come  in  from 
the  North  and  take  possession.  In  a few  generations  they  may 
become  as  languid  as  those  whom  they  have  displaced.  I have 
heard  that  bees  taken  to  the  West  Indies  work  hard  the  first  year, 
but  finding  the  flowers  in  bloom  all  the  time  they  cease  storing  up 
honey  for  a winter  that  never  comes. 

Missionary  work  is  carried  on  in  Singapore  by  the  Church  of 
England,  the  Catholics,  the  English  Presbyterians,  the  Plymouth 
Brethren,  and  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Society.  The  Church  of 
England  has  a fine  cathedral  and  a strong  staff  of  workers.  They 
preach  and  teach.  The  Catholics  have  all  the  methods  that  they 
have  found  useful  elsewhere.  The  Methodists  have  a college  for 
boys.  They  have  six  hundred  enrolled.  The  Chinese  gave  $6,200 
to  establish  this  school.  The  government  grants  and  the  tuition 
fees  pay  all  expenses.  In  the  classes  I saw  Chinese,  Tamils,  Malays, 
Eurasians,  Javanese  and  Arabs.  The  boarding  school  has  forty 
inmates.  The  Principal  of  the  college  and  several  American  teach- 
ers eat  at  the  same  table  with  the  boys.  The  Deaconesses  have  two 
hundred  girls  in  the  school  under  their  care.  In  their  Sunday- 
schools  there  are  over  five  hundred  enrolled.  This  society  has  a 


FROM  HOSG-KONG  TO  CALCUTTA 


195 


•dispensary.  The  physician  in  charge  was  an  army  surgeon.  He 
resigned  his  position  to  take  up  this  work.  Another  efficient  worker 
had  been  one  of  the  Royal  Engineers.  In  connection  with  this  work 
is  a mission  press.  While  I was  there  a wealthy  young  man  from 
New  York  joined  the  mission.  He  proposes  to  start  a Medical 
Training  School,  and  to  support  himself  and  the  work. 

Dr.  Gregory,  of  China,  went  with  me  to  see  the  summer  palace  of 
the  Sultan  of  Johore.  It  is  the  most  magnificent  building  I have  ever 
seen.  Much  of  the  plate  is  of  solid  gold.  Polished  ivory  tusks  are 
found  in  all  directions.  The  vases  are  of  the  costliest  material  and 
the  most  exquisite  workmanship.  The  tapesti’ies  are  of  silk  and  gold. 
It  would  be  interesting  to  know  how  this  magnificence  was  paid  for. 
The  people  are  heavily  taxed  to  support  this  display.  In  the  East 
the  good  things  belong  to  the  few.  The  many  have  few  comforts 
and  no  luxuries.  The  money  invested  in  this  palace  would  have 
established  a score  of  colleges  and  libraries.  The  Sultan,  we  were 
told,  was  popular  in  his  time.  He  was  fond  of  fast  horses  and 
delighted  in  sports  of  all  kinds.  But  if  he  ever  did  anything  to 
uplift  his  people,  we  did  not  hear  of  it.  In  the  company  of  Prof. 
Wood,  I visited  the  Tau  Tock  Seng  Hospital.  This  was  more  to 
me  than  the  palace.  A rich  Chinese  gave  $7,000  to  found  a hos- 
pital for  the  diseased  of  all  countries.  His  son  gave  $3,000  more. 
The  hospital  has  six  hundred  beds.  The  government  grants  amount 
to  $40,000  a year.  This  man  was  not  a Christian,  but  he  was 
prompted  to  this  by  what  he  saw  among  Christians.  In  Canton 
the  Chinese  have  built  hospitals  and  dispensaries  because  of  Dr. 
Kerr’s  work  in  that  city.  Buddhist  monks  preach  to  the  patients 
as  Christian  men  preach  in  Dr.  Kerr’s  chapel.  The  leaven  is  at 
work,  and  no  power  can  arrest  it  till  the  whole  lump  is  leavened. 

There  are  a number  of  places  of  considerable  importance  not 
far  from  Singapore.  Of  these  the  following  deserve  mention: 
Sumatra,  Java,  Borneo,  Celebes,  the  Philippines,  the  Moluccas,  and 
Siam.  The  Philippines  belong  to  Spain.  Part  of  Borneo  belongs 
to  Great  Britain.  Siam  is  an  independent  power.  The  other  places 
named  belong  to  the  Netherlands.  These  are  all  large  places. 
Sumatra  has  an  area  of  160,000  square  miles;  Java,  50,000;  Borneo, 
203,000;  Celebes,  72,000;  the  Philippines,  114,326;  the  Moluccas, 
42,000;  Siam,  250,000.  The  Dutch  East  Indies  have  an  area  of 
719,000  square  miles,  and  a population  of  29,000,000.  The  Philippines 
are  as  large  as  all  Italy.  Borneo  is  larger  than  Great  Britain  and 
Ireland.  It  is  said  that  if  Borneo  was  as  densely  populated  as  Java 
it  would  have  125,000,000,  while  all  Malaysia  would  contain 


196 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


250,000,000.  These  islands  produce  sugar,  tea,  coffee,  rice,  oranges, 
bananas,  mangosteens,  the  durian,  the  king  of  fruits,  pineapples, 
cocoanuts,  pepper,  hemp,  tobacco,  tapioca,  cocoa,  spices  and  trop- 
ical fruits  of  all  kinds.  Bishop  Thoburn  says  one  sago  palm  will 
supply  a man  with  food  for  a whole  year,  and  one  such  tree  can  be 
bought  for  three  dollars.  The  Malay  Peninsula  has  enough  tin  in 
its  mines  to  supply  the  world.  Sumatra  is  the  richest  of  the  islands 
in  minerals.  Borneo  has  minerals  and  timber. 

Considerable  missionary  work  has  been  done  in  this  part  of  the 
world.  The  Dutch  societies  are  at  work  in  the  Dutch  Colonies. 
They  report  sixty-seven  missionaries  and  236,604  converts.  The 
Church  of  England  is  at  work  in  all  parts  of  the  Empire.  Other 
societies  are  helping  to  turn  these  people  from  Mohammedanism  and 
Buddhism  to  the  living  God.  In  Siam  the  Presbyterian  Board  has 
a staff  of  thirteen  ordained  missionaries,  four  physicians,  seventeen 
lay  workers,  and  thirty-three  native  helpers.  They  report  twelve 
churches,  1,114  converts,  twenty-one  schools,  641  pupils,  four  hos- 
pitals and  two  mission  presses.  The  Catholics  are  everywhere. 
They  came  to  this  field  300  years  ago.  The  Portuguese  were  the 
first  to  explore  these  parts  and  to  settle  in  them.  The  Pope  gave 
the  king  all  the  land  he  might  discover  in  the  East.  The  king  was 
as  eager  to  build  up  the  church  as  he  was  to  add  to  his  possessions. 
Every  ship  carried  some  missionaries  to  these  lands.  Francis 
Xavier  did  much  of  his  work  in  the  Archipelago.  “ He  pillowed 
his  head  on  a coil  of  ropes  and  ate  what  the  sailors  discarded; 
and  there  was  not  a seaman  in  that  laboring  vessel,  there  was 
not  a soldier  in  that  crowded  troop-ship,  who  did  not  inwardly 
recognize  the  great  soul  that  glowed  beneath  those  squalid 
garments;  no  outward  humiliation  could  conceal  that  knightly 
spirit,  no  sickness  and  suffering  could  quench  the  fire  of  that 
ardent  genius.”  He  rebuked  sin;  he  added  great  numbers  to 
the  churches.  The  Philippines  are  under  Spanish  control.  The 
Catholics  only  are  allowed  to  work  there.  The  British  and  Foreign 
Bible  Society  has  its  main  office  in  Singapore.  The  agent  told  me 
that  last  year  they  sold  75,000  copies  of  the  Scriptures.  These 
sales  were  made  in  forty-two  different  languages. 

Leaving  Singapore  and  passing  through  the  Straits  of  Malacca, 
we  came  to  Penang.  This  city  is  nearly  as  large  as  Singapore. 
The  same  missionary  societies  are  at  work  in  both.  We  were  there 
on  Christmas  day.  The  government  offices  and  the  foreign  busi- 
ness houses  were  closed.  The  Chinese  and  Malays  were  at  work,  as 
if  they  had  never  heard  of  the  Christmas  carol  sung  by  the  heavenly 


BUNGALOW  IN  HURD  A,  INDIA. 


BEGGARS  IN  HUH I)A.  INDIA. 


FROM  HOXG-KOXG  TO  CALCUTTA 


197 


host  over  Bethlehem.  Dr.  West,  of  the  Methodist  Mission,  took  us 
to  the  Public  Gardens  and  told  us  about  the  work.  There  are  five 
hundred  pupils  in  the  three  schools  under  the  control  of  the  Meth- 
odists. After  taking  on  board  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand 
cocoanuts  and  some  other  freight,  we  left  Penang  for  Burma.  In 
three  days  we  were  in  Rangoon.  Burma  is  as  large  as  Texas  and 
Massachusetts,  and  has  a population  of  eight  millions.  The  popu- 
lation is  made  up  of  forty  different  races.  The  four  distinct  peo- 
ples are  the  Burmese  proper,  Peguans,  Shans  and  Karens.  There 
are  thirty  tribes  of  these  jungle  people.  They  all  worship  evil 
spirits.  The  Burmese  are  called  the  Irish  of  the  East.  They  like 
gay  clothing  and  are  a gay  people.  They  believe  that  sufficient 
unto  the  day  is  the  food  thereof.  As  a result,  Chinese  and  Hin- 
doos are  doing  most  of  the  work.  Teak  and  rice  are  the  chief  arti- 
cles of  export.  Rangoon  has  doubled  its  population  in  ten  years. 
Since  Burma  was  annexed  to  India  there  has  been  a degree  of  pros- 
perity unparalleled  in  the  history  of  the  country.  Burma  is  a great 
Buddhist  stronghold.  The  fame  of  her  pagodas  has  filled  the 
world.  There  is  one  in  Rangoon  that  is  three  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  feet  high.  It  is  made  of  brick,  and  is  heavily  plated  with  gold. 

Judson  reached  Burma  in  1813.  Felix  Carey  and  two  others  had 
been  there  before  him.  They  left  the  field  to  him.  For  seven 
years  he  preached  in  Rangoon  before  he  found  any  to  believe  his 
message.  He  was  arrested  and  thrust  into  prison,  and  kept  there 
for  nearly  two  years.  Part  of  the  time  he  wore  five  pairs  of  fetters. 
Of  his  wife  it  is  said  that  she  followed  him  from  prison  to  prison, 
ministering  to  his  wants,  trying  to  soften  the  hearts  of  his  keepers, 
to  mitigate  his  sufferings,  interceding  with  government  officials  or 
with  members  of  the  royal  family.  For  a year  and  a half  she  thus 
exercised  herself,  walking  miles  in  feeble  health,  in  the  darkness  of 
the  night,  or  under  a noonday  sun,  much  of  the  time  with  a babe  in 
her  arms.  She  died  in  her  youth,  while  her  husband  was  at  the 
capital  acting  as  an  interpreter  between  the  king  and  the  British. 
Years  went  on,  and  the  work  began  to  prosper.  In  seventeen 
years  the  whole  Bible  was  translated.  Native  evangelists  went  out 
and  preached  with  marvelous  power  and  success.  Judson  lived  to 
see  20,000  won  to  the  faith.  Some  people  came  to  him  and  said, 
“ Sir,  we  have  seen  a writing  that  tells  of  an  eternal  God.  Are  you 
the  man  that  gives  away  such  writings?  If  so,  please  give  us  one, 
for  we  want  to  know  the  truth  before  we  die.”  Others  came  from 
the  interior  and  asked,  “Are  you  Jesus  Christ’s  man?  Give  us  a 
writing  that  tells  us  about  Jesus  Christ.”  Others  came  from  the 


198 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


borders  of  Siam  and  China,  and  said,  “Sir,  we  hear  that  there  is  art 
eternal  hell.  We  are  afraid  of  it.  Do  give  us  a writing  that  will 
tell  us  how  to  escape  it.”  The  most  successful  work  was  done 
among  the  Karens.  These  people  were  more  noble  than  the 
Burmese,  in  that  they  received  the  truth  with  all  readiness  of  mind. 
Mr.  Boardman  did  his  work  among  the  Karens.  After  his  death 
his  wife  took  his  place,  “ proclaiming  Christ  to  the  inquirers,  con- 
ducting schools,  and  making  long  tours,  often  in  drenching  rains, 
through  wild  mountain  passes,  over  swollen  streams  and  deceitful 
marshes,  among  the  craggy  rocks  and  tangled  shrubs  of  the 
jungle.”  She  translated  “Pilgrim’s  Progress,”  several  tracts, 
twenty  of  the  best  hymns,  four  volumes  of  Scripture  questions  for 
Sunday-schools.  She  learned  the  language  of  the  Peguans,  and 
superintended  the  translation  of  the  New  Testament  and  the  princi- 
pal Burmese  tracts  into  it.  Several  years  after  the  death  of  his 
first  wife,  Dr.  Judson  was  married  to  Mrs.  Boardman.  Her  health 
failing,  it  was  decided  that  she  should  visit  America.  He  accompa- 
nied her  as  far  as  the  Isle  of  France,  and  then  returned  to  his 
work.  She  wrote  at  the  time: 

“We  part  on  this  green  islet,  love — 

Thou  for  the  Eastern  main, 

I for  the  setting  sun,  love, 

Oh,  when  to  meet  again? 

“My  heart  is  sad  for  thee,  love, 

For  lone  thy  way  will  be ; 

And  oft  thy  tears  will  fall,  love, 

For  the  children  and  for  me. 

“The  music  of  thy  daughter’s  voice 
Thou’lt  miss  for  many  a year; 

And  the  merry  shout  of  the  elder  boys 
Thou’lt  list  in  vain  to  hear. 

“My  tears  fall  fast  for  thee,  love, 

How  Can  I say  Farewell ! 

But  go  ; thy  God  be  with  thee,  love. 

Thy  heart’s  deep  grief  to  quell. 

“Yet  my  spirit  clings  to  thee,  love, 

Thy  soul  remains  with  me; 

And  oft  will  hold  communion  sweet 
O’er  the  dark  and  distant  sea. 

“ But  who  can  paint  our  mutual  joys 
When,  all  our  wanderings  o’er, 

We  both  shall  clasp  our  infants  three, 

At  home  on  Burma’s  shore  ! 

“ But  brighter  shall  our  raptures  glow, 

On  yon  celestial  plain, 

When  the  loved  and  parted  here  below 
Meet  ne’er  to  part  again. 


FROM  HONG-EONG  TO  CALCUTTA 


199 


‘ ‘Then  gird  thine  armor  on,  love, 

Nor  faint  thou  on  the  way, 

Till  Boodh  shall  fall,  and  Burma’s  sons 
Shall  own  Messiah’s  sway.” 

The  “farewell”  was  spoken.  They  parted  to  meet  on  earth  no 
more.  The  ship  was  obliged  to  put  into  St.  Helena.  Here  Mrs. 
Judson  died  and  was  buried.  The  third  Mrs.  Judson  was  worthy  of 
the  other  two.  She  was  a poet  and  an  author  of  note  before  her 
marriage.  “My  Indian  Bird,”  written  after  the  birth  of  her  first 
child,  contains  the  following  lines: 

“There’s  not  in  Ind  a lovelier  bird ; 

Broad  earth  owns  not  a happier  nest; 

O God,  thou  hast  a fountain  stirred, 

Whose  waters  never  more  shall  rest ! 

“The  pulse  first  caught  its  tiny  stroke, 

The  blood  its  crimson  hue  from  mine;  — 

This  life,  which  I have  dared  invoke, 

Henceforth  is  parallel  with  Thine. 

“A  silent  awe  is  in  my  room, 

I tremble  with  delicious  fear ; 

The  future  with  its  light  and  gloom, — 

Time  and  eternity  are  here.  ’ ’ 

The  Baptists  have  now  one  hundred  and  forty-eight  missionaries 
in  Burma,  and  six  hundred  and  one  native  preachers.  They  have 
six  hundred  churches  with  a total  membership  of  thirty-three  thou- 
sand three  hundred  and  thirty-seven.  They  have  four  hundred 
and  fifty-six  schools,  with  twelve  thousand  two  hundred  and  ninety 
pupils  enrolled.  Near  Rangoon  they  have  a Theological  Seminary, 
with  two  hundred  students  in  it  preparing  to  preach.  This  is  one 
of  the  largest  schools  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  They  have  a college 
in  Rangoon.  Other  societies  have  entered  the  field  in  recent  years. 
Dr.  Smith,  of  the  Methodist  Church,  told  me  that  while  they  have 
some  work  among  the  Burmese  and  Tamils  and  Telugus,  their  work 
is  chiefly  in  English.  The  Burman  Church  is  Judson’s  monument. 
He  labored,  and  others  have  entered  into  his  labors. 

All  through  the  East  one  is  surprised  to  see  so  many  Eurasians. 
These  are  the  children  of  European  and  Asiatic  parents.  Some  of 
these  are  strikingly  handsome.  Coming  out  of  a church  in  Singa- 
pore, I asked  the  pastor  concerning  the  future  of  Eurasian  girls. 
He  sighed  deeply  and  said,  “Their  future  is  very  dark.”  I asked 
him  if  he  meant  that  respecting  those  that  were  cultivated  and 
attractive.  He  said  that  the  comber  they  are  in  person  and  the 
sweeter  they  are  in  disposition,  the  more  they  are  sought  after  for 
immoral  purposes.  Better  for  such  girls  if  they  had  never  been 


200 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


born.  In  America  we  condemn  the  Chinese  because  they  do  not. 
bring  their  women  with  them  and  establish  homes.  The  Chinese 
are  not  the  only  people  that  do  that.  There  are  thousands  of  men 
in  the  far  East  who  are  doing  the  very  thing  for  which  we  condemn 
the  Chinese.  Three  days  and  a half  after  leaving  Rangoon  we 
reached  Calcutta,  the  capital  of  the  Empire  of  India. 


1.  Miss  Hattie  Judson. 
3.  Mrs.  H.  L.  Jackson. 


2.  Dr.  C.  S.  Durand. 

4.  Miss  Mary  Thompson. 


XXXI. 


INDIA  AND  HER  PEOPLES. 

The  outline  of  India  resembles  a triangle.  The  Himalayas  form 
the  northern  boundary.  Cape  Comorin,  the  extreme  southern 
point,  is  within  a few  degrees  of  the  equator.  The  western  coast 
is  washed  by  the  Sea  of  Arabia  and  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  eastern 
coast  is  washed  by  the  Bay  of  Bengal.  Quetta,  on  the  west,  is  nine- 
teen hundred  miles  from  the  eastern  part  of  Assam.  From  the 
Himalayas  to  Cape  Comorin  the  distance  is  about  the  same.  Burma 
is  no  part  of  India.  It  is  separated  from  it  by  mountains  and  by 
barriers  of  race  and  language.  But  Burma  has  been  annexed  and 
is  now  part  of  the  British  Empire  in  India.  Ceylon  lies  to  the 
southeast,  and,  though  it  is  almost  joined  to  India  by  a bridge  of 
islands,  it  is  a crown  colony  and  is  independent  of  the  govern- 
ment in  Calcutta.  Excluding  Burma  and  Ceylon,  India  has  an 
area  of  1,587,000  square  miles.  It  is  as  large  as  all  Europe  with- 
out Russia,  or  as  large  as  that  pai’t  of  the  United  States  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

There  are  three  natural  divisions.  The  first  is  that  of  the  Him- 
alayas. For  1,400  miles  this  range  averages  14,000  feet  in  height. 
Mount  Everest  is  29,000  feet  above  the  sea,  or  twice  as  high  as 
Pike’s  Peak.  The  base  of  the  Himalayas  averages  150  miles  in 
width.  The  second  division  stretches  from  these  mountains  to  the 
Vindhyas,  and  consists  chiefly  of  three  great  river  systems:  that  of 
the  Indus,  that  of  the  Ganges,  and  that  of  the  Brahmaputra.  The 
Indus  and  Brahmaputra  rise  north  of  the  mountains;  the  Ganges 
rises  on  the  southern  side.  India  is  thus  watered  by  streams  from 
both  sides  of  the  Himalayas.  The  Indus  is  1,800  miles  long  and 
drains  a basin  of  372,700  square  miles.  The  basins  of  the  Ganges 
and  Brahmaputra  are  about  the  same  in  extent.  That  part  of  India 
lying  between  the  Vindhya  mountains  and  Cape  Comorin  is  called 
the  Deccan,  or  Southland.  The  Western  Ghats  run  down  the 
Malabar  coast  at  some  distance  from  the  sea.  The  Eastern  Ghats 
run  down  the  Coromandel  coast  in  the  same  way.  These  two 
chains  of  hills  unite  at  the  Cape. 

According  to  Sir  William  Hunter,  India  is  a continent  rather 

201 


202 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


than  a single  countiy.  He  speaks  of  it  as  a museum  of  races  dif- 
fering in  language  and  religion.  The  people  may  be  divided  into 
two  classes:  the  Aryans  and  the  non-Aryans.  The  Aryans  belong 
to  the  same  stock  as  the  Greeks,  the  Romans,  the  Germans  and  the 
English.  Their  ancestors  dwelt  at  one  time  in  tents  in  Central 
Asia.  About  the  time  our  forefathers  began  their  migrations  west- 
ward towards  Europe,  it  is  likely  that  some  members  of  the  same 
family  turned  their  faces  and  their  footsteps  in  the  direction  of 
India.  No  one  knows  how  long  ago  that  was.  The  Aryans  entered 
through  the  northwest  passes  and  settled  in  the  valley  of  the  Indus. 
"When  we  first  get  a glimpse  of  them  they  are  in  the  patriarchal 
age.  The  head  of  the  family  is  priest  and  king.  The  people  are 
engaged  in  feeding  cattle  and  in  tilling  the  soil.  The  king  lives 
very  much  like  the  others.  He  aids  in  clearing  the  jungle,  tending 
the  cattle,  and  marking  the  calves.  All  were  bred  to  arms, so  as  to 
be  able  to  defend  their  homes  and  their  crops  against  the  aborig- 
ines. The  Aryans  wei’e  proud  of  their  fair  skins  and  culture,  and 
spoke  of  the  people  whom  they  found  in  the  land  as  “lawless,” 
“raw-eaters,”  “ men  without  language,”  “ without  gods,”  “ with- 
out sacrifices,”  “ as  gross  feeders  on  flesh.”  Being  better  armed 
and  better  disciplined  than  the  aborigines,  they  drove  them  into  the 
deserts  and  hills  and  jungles.  Many  were  exterminated  and  many 
more  wei’e  reduced  to  slavery.  For  centuries  the  Aryans  lived  in 
what  is  known  now  as  the  Panjab.  They  advanced  as  they  were 
able  till  they  conquered  the  whole  Ganges  Valley.  In  course  of 
time,  as  they  multiplied  and  felt  the  need  of  more  land,  they  ex- 
tended their  conquests  to  the  south.  They  drove  the  aborigines 
before  them  as  they  advanced.  There  are  many  non-Aryan  peo- 
ples still  in  existence.  Among  those  in  the  north  are  the  Santals, 
the  Ivols,  the  Ghonds,  the  Ivurkus,  the  Bhils,  and  many  others. 
Among  the  aborigines  of  the  south  are  the  Tamils,  the  Telugus, 
the  Kanarese  and  the  Malayalam.  The  aborigines  of  the  south 
are  far  more  advanced  than  those  in  the  north.  It  is  said  that 
some  of  the  Assam  hill-men  have  no  word  to  express  distance  by 
miles  or  any  land  measure.  They  reckon  the  length  of  a journey 
by  the  number  of  plugs  of  tobacco  they  chew  on  the  way. 

India  has  three  hundred  distinct  languages  and  dialects.  The 
Aryans  formed  a number  of  kingdoms.  These  kingdoms  had  little 
intercourse.  As  a result  they  came  to  use  different  dialects. 
These  dialects  are  all  from  the  Sanskrit,  but  they  differ  as  widely  as 
Italian  and  French,  or  as  French  and  English.  Some  of  the  prin- 
cipal dialects  are  as  follows:  Hindi,  Bengali,  Gugerati,  Mahratti, 


nmiA  AXD  HER  PEOPLES 


203 


Panjabi,  Sindhi,  Oriya.  Hindustani  is  a mixture  of  Hindi  and  Per- 
sian and  Arabic.  It  originated  in  the  camps.  The  Mohammedan 
soldiers  had  to  find  some  means  of  communicating  with  the  people 
whom  they  conquered.  This  mongrel  language  is  the  result.  The 
non-Aryan  peoples  had  little  or  no  intercourse  one  with  the  other. 
Living  alone  they  came  to  use  dialects  peculiar  to  themselves.  No 
doubt  the  Aryans  and  the  aborigines  borrowed  from  each  other  to 
some  extent,  so  that  the  languages  of  each  have  been  more  or  less 
modified  by  those  of  the  other.  While  the  non- Aryans  have  always 
been  despised  by  their  conquerors,  they  are  superior  to  them  iu 
some  respects.  They  are  noted  for  their  truthfulness,  honesty  and 
bravery.  They  are  ready  to  lay  down  their  lives  for  those  whom 
they  serve.  They  give  a more  willing  ear  to  the  Gospel.  The 
greatest  victories  won  in  India  have  been  among  the  aboriginal 
races. 

Gracey  speaks  of  India  as  the  prize  of  the  East.  Certain  it 
is  that  India  has  been  a battlefield  for  many  generations.  In  the 
time  of  the  Buddha,  Darius  conquered  a part  and  placed  a satrap 
over  it  to  rule  in  his  name.  Three  centuries  before  the  Christian 
Era,  Alexander  the  Great  crossed  the  Indus  in  his  career  of  con- 
quest. The  Indians,  under  the  leadership  of  Porus,  went  out  to 
oppose  him.  They  had  more  troops  and  elephants  and  war-char- 
iots. But  they  were  unable  to  withstand  the  discipline  and  the 
matchless  strategy  of  the  Greeks.  Alexander  asked  the  conquered 
Porus  how  he  wished  to  be  treated.  He  replied,  “ Like  a king.” 
It  was  the  wish  of  the  conqueror  to  go  on  and  subdue  Bengal,  but 
his  soldiers  refused  to  go  farther  than  the  Sutlej.  On  the  death 
of  Alexander,  India  fell  to  Seleucus.  He  undertook  to  complete 
what  Alexander  had  begun.  The  Bactrian  Greeks  ruled  for  a time 
a part  of  the  west  and  northwest. 

The  Mohammedans  invaded  India  early  in  the  eleventh  cen- 
tury. Their  rule  began  in  1001  and  lasted  till  1857.  They 
ruled  over  a large  part  of  the  country,  but  never  over  all. 
The  period  of  their  supremacy  did  not  last  much  over  a century. 
Before  that  time  the  Hindus  began  the  work  of  reconquest.  Mah- 
mud of  Ghazni  invaded  India  seventeen  times.  His  aim  was  to  get 
the  wealth  of  the  country,  and  to  convert  the  people  to  Mohammed- 
anism. He  smashed  the  idols  and  temples  and  carried  away  so 
much  plunder  that  Ghazni  became  the  richest  city  of  the  age. 
Hindu  slaves  were  sold  in  the  market  for  two  rupees  each.  In  one 
temple  there  was  a huge  idol  which  the  Brahmans  wished  to  ran- 
som. The  fierce  iconoclast  said,  “I  came  to  destroy,  and  not  to  sell 


204 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


idols.”  lie  struck  the  monster  with  his  mace  and  an  immense 
quantity  of  rubies  and  pearls  and  diamonds  rolled  out.  These  were 
worth  much  more  than  the  ransom  offered.  For  nearly  two  cen- 
turies after  this  little  of  the  history  of  India  is  known.  Moham- 
med of  Ghor  broke  the  power  of  Ghazni  and  undertook  to  conquer 
and  to  rule  India.  At  his  death  in  1206,  all  north  India  from  the 
delta  of  the  Indus  to  the  delta  of  the  Ganges  was  subject  to  him. 
Several  dynasties  succeeded  and  ruled  Hindustan  with  varying  for- 
tunes. In  1398  Timour  sacked  Delhi.  He  was  afraid  of  insurrec- 
tion at  home  and  did  not  tarry  long.  Each  of  his  soldiers  carried 
away  one  hundred  and  fifty  captives,  and  even  soldiers’  boys  got 
twenty  slaves  apiece.  The  plunder  was  immense.  Babar,  the  sixth 
in  descent  from  Timour,  was  invited  to  India  in  1524.  Two  years 
later  he  ascended  the  throne  of  Hindustan.  He  was  the  first  of  the 
Mogul  Empei’ors.  His  son,  Humayun,  reigned  for  six  years. 
Akbar,  his  son,  was  one  of  the  greatest  and  most  famous  monarchs 
of  his  age.  He  conquered  all  Hindustan  and  part  of  the  Deccan. 
He  was  a skillful  soldier  and  a wise  ruler.  His  son  Jahangir,  his 
grandson  Shah  Jahan,  and  his  great  grandson  Aurangzeb,  were  three 
of  the  richest  and  most  powerful  monarchs  of  the  world.  One  of 
them  built  the  Peacock  Throne  at  a cost  of  $30,000,000,  and  the 
Taj  Mahal  at  a cost  of  $10,000,000.  Under  the  last  of  the  three 
the  Mogul  Empire  in  India  attained  its  greatest  splendor  and  its 
widest  extension.  By  the  time  of  his  death  it  was  rapidly  falling 
into  decay.  There  were  other  emperors,  and  they  maintained  a 
show  of  power  until  the  Sepoy  Mutiny,  but  the  Indian  peoples  were 
gaining  strength  and  were  making  inroads  upon  the  Empire.  The 
Hindus  were  not  capable  of  self-government.  Had  they  been  they 
would  have  combined  and  driven  out  the  foreigners.  They  could 
not  unite  even  in  the  interest  of  self-preservation.  The  Moham- 
medan power  was  based  on  pride,  hate  and  lust.  It  was  never 
accepted  by  the  people  as  a rightful  supremacy.  The  peoples 
groaned  under  the  foreign  yoke  and  never  ceased  to  wish  to 
shake  it  off. 

From  ancient  times  the  commerce  of  India  enriched  three  conti- 
nents. Goods  were  shipped  by  the  Persian  Gulf  and  by  the  Red 
Sea.  Some  found  their  way  into  Egypt.  Some  were  carried  over- 
land to  Alexandria  and  reshipped  to  Phoenicia,  Palestine,  Rome  and 
Constantinople.  In  later  times  Genoa,  Florence,  and  Venice 
profited  by  this  trade.  Six  3Tears  after  Columbus  discovered  Amer- 
ica, Vasco  da  Gama  sailed  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and 
reached  India.  The  Pope  had  given  the  King  of  Portugal  all  lands 


SCHOOL  CHAPEL  IN  Hl’RDA,  INDIA. 


BUNGALOW  IN  M U NG ELL  INDIA. 


INDIA  AND  HER  PEOPLES 


205 


that  might  be  discovered  in  the  East,  and  the  right  to  trade  with 
Ethiopia,  Arabia,  Persia  and  India.  Portugal  was  mistress  of  the 
seas  and  had  a monopoly  of  this  trade  for  a long  time.  The  first 
settlements  were  made  in  Goa  and  Cochin  on  the  west  coast.  The 
famous  Albuquerque  was  sent  out  as  Viceroy.  New  settlements 
were  made  in  Ceylon,  in  Bengal,  and  in  Chittagong.  The  Dutch 
sought  to  divide  the  trade  of  India  with  Portugal.  In  the  struggle 
that  ensued  they  drove  the  Portuguese  from  most  of  their  settle- 
ments and  took  possession.  Portugal  still  owns  the  island  of  Goa, 
and  a small  strip  on  the  mainland,  but  her  primacy  in  the  East 
vanished  like  a dream. 

In  the  year  1600  Queen  Elizabeth  signed  the  charter  of  the  East 
India  Company.  Thirteen  years  later  the  Emperor  gave  them  per- 
mission to  establish  factories  in  his  dominions.  The  first  places 
occupied  were  Masulipatam  on  the  east  coast  and  Surat  on  the  west. 
Some  years  after  they  bought  Madras  and  the  site  of  Calcutta  and 
Bombay.  The  French  entered  India  in  1604.  They  bought  Pondi- 
cherry on  the  southwest  coast  and  obtained  some  settlements  on  the 
Hoogly  above  Calcutta.  Dupleix,  the  French  leader,  formed  the 
idea  of  driving  the  English  into  the  sea  and  building  up  a French 
Empire  in  India.  In  the  war  that  broke  out  the  French  were  vic- 
torious for  years.  They  took  Madras.  They  set  up  triumphal 
arches  and  felt  confident  of  the  complete  overthrow  of  the  English. 
At  the  darkest  hour  in  the  Company’s  history,  Clive  appeared  on 
the  scene.  His  presence  and  efforts  turned  the  scale.  He  broke 
the  power  of  the  French  and  practically  terminated  their  career  in 
India.  They  have  still  a few  settlements,  but  they  are  insignificant. 
The  conquest  of  India  by  the  English  began  with  the  battle  of 
Plassey.  By  the  time  of  the  Mutiny,  a century  later,  most  of  the 
country  had  been  acquired.  What  began  as  a factory  grew  into  a 
vice-royalty.  After  the  Mutiny  England  took  India  over,  and  the 
East  India  Company  ceased  to  exist.  There  are  thirteen  provinces 
administered  by  the  representatives  of  the  crown.  These  provinces 
have  an  area  of  944,992  square  miles  and  a population  of  221,- 
000,000.  This  part  is  known  as  British  India  Proper.  There  are 
460  Feudatory  States.  These  States  have  an  area  of  600,000  square 
miles  and  a population  of  66,000,000.  In  some  of  these  the  ruling 
princes  are  practically  absolute  in  all  that  relates  to  domestic  affairs. 
Nevertheless  they  are  vassals  of  the  Paramount  Power.  British 
residents  assist  in  the  administration  of  the  government  and  keep 
the  authorities  in  Calcutta  advised  as  to  what  is  going  on.  The 


206 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


relations  of  these  States  to  the  Supreme  Power  are  not  uniform. 
All  are  pledged  to  good  government. 

Max  Muller  says:  “ If  I were  asked  to  look  over  the  whole  world 
to  find  out  the  country  most  richly  endowed  with  all  the  wealth, 
power  and  beauty  that  nature  can  bestow — in  some  parts  a very 
Paradise  on  earth — I should  point  to  India.”  In  this  great  and 
good  land  are  287,000,000  of  human  beings  of  our  own  kith  and  kin. 
Their  forefathers  and  ours  dwelt  together  in  Asia,  and  before  their 
dispersion  spoke  the  same  tongue  and  worshiped  the  same  gods. 
With  the  same  Gospel  and  equal  advantages  the  people  of  India 
will  be  as  enterprising  and  as  prosperous  and  as  great  politically 
and  otherwise  as  their  European  and  American  cousins. 


XXXII. 


CALCUTTA  AXD  SERAMPORE. 

Calcutta  is  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hoogly,  and  is  eighty  miles 
from  the  sea.  When  the  East  India  Company  opened  its  first  fac- 
tory in  Bengal,  in  1686,  Calcutta  was  a small  village;  now  it  is  one 
of  the  great  political  and  commercial  centers  of  the  world.  Its 
population  numbers  840,000,  and  its  annual  commerce  amounts  to 
$300,000,000.  In  the  business  part  one  sees  great  public  buildings, 
large  mercantile  and  manufacturing  establishments,  institutions  of 
learning,  churches  and  cathedrals,  and  palatial  homes.  These 
buildings  are  worthy  of  New  York  or  London.  Farther  back  one 
sees  the  shops  and  homes  of  the  natives.  These  are  small  and 
mean  as  a rule.  It  has  been  said  of  Calcutta  that  it  has  palaces  in 
front  and  pig-sties  in  the  rear.  Gradually,  however,  the  natives 
are  being  educated  and  are  competing  for  positions  in  the  postal, 
telegraph,  railway  and  government  service.  They  sit  on  the  bench 
and  fill  responsible  and  lucrative  positions  in  the  administration. 
They  are  constantly  clamoring  for  a larger  share  of  the  offices. 
The  cry  is  being  heard,  “ India  for  the  Indians.”  The  Europeans 
complain  that  the  natives  are  crowding  them  out,  and  filling  posi- 
tions which  they  once  regarded  as  peculiarly  their  own. 

The  Hoogly  is  one  of  the  many  mouths  of  the  Ganges,  and  con- 
sequently is  a sacred  stream.  Along  the  banks  thousands  bathe 
daily.  They  plunge  under  again  and  again.  They  wash  their 
clothes  and  their  drinking  vessels.  They  drink  its  waters.  This  is 
done  to  cleanse  the  defilement  of  sin.  There  are  places  where  the 
dead  are  burned.  Formerly  people  were  brought  to  the  river  to 
die.  Their  mouths  were  filled  with  mud  to  hasten  the  process. 
Dead  bodies  were  thrown  into  the  stream.  Children  were  offered 
in  sacrifice.  The  government  put  a stop  to  these  practices.  At  the 
edge  of  the  city  on  the  bank  of  the  Hoogly  is  the  famous  temple  of 
Kali.  This  goddess  is  the  wife  of  Shiva,  and  is  the  chief  object 
of  worship  in  Bengal.  She  wears  a necklace  of  skulls;  for  ear- 
rings she  has  two  bodies;  her  clothing  is  a girdle  made  of  human 
hands,  and  her  tongue  protrudes  from  her  mouth.  Her  eyes  are 
red  and  her  breasts  are  smeared  with  blood.  It  was  from  this 

207 


208 


A CIRC  L IT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


shrine  that  Calcutta  took  its  name.  Farther  down  the  river  on  the 
opposite  side  are  the  Botanical  Gardens.  The  main  object  of  inter- 
est here  is  a banyan  tree  that  covers  a square  mile.  Farther  up 
the  river  is  Henry  Martyn's  Pagoda.  In  this  he  lived  for  a time 
and  studied,  and  here  a number  of  friends  used  to  meet  with  him 
to  pray. 

Every  one  has  heard  of  “the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta.”  The 
Nabob  of  Bengal  attacked  the  British.  Most  of  the  people 
escaped  in  boats.  The  garrison  could  not  escape  and  surrendered. 
The  prisoners,  146  in  number,  were  thrust  into  a cell  twenty  feet 
square.  The  next  morning  only  twenty-three  were  living.  Clive 
came  from  Madras  to  chastise  the  Nabob  and  to  recapture  the  city. 
The  battle  of  Plassey  was  fought  near  Calcutta.  Clive  had  only  a 
handful  of  men.  He  trembled  when  he  thought  of  the  odds  and 
the  issue.  The  victory  was  complete  and  British  prestige  was  re- 
stored. The  battle  of  Plassey  decided  the  fate  of  India,  as  the 
battle  of  Hastings  decided  the  fate  of  England  in  the  days  of 
William  the  Conqueror. 

Kiernander,  a Dane,  wTas  the  first  missionary  in  Calcutta.  He 
began  work  in  1758.  He  established  schools  and  preached  to  Euro- 
peans and  natives.  Carey  arrived  in  1793.  For  five  years  he  had 
charge  of  an  indigo  factory  in  Malda.  Here  he  studied  Bengali, 
translated  the  New  Testament,  and  preached  to  the  people.  In 
1799  Marshman  and  Ward  joined  him.  Owing  to  the  hostility  of 
the  Company  it  was  deemed  expedient  to  settle  in  Sex'ampore. 
Other  societies  sent  out  representatives  later.  The  Church  Mis- 
sionary Society,  the  Scottish  churches,  the  London  Society,  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  and  others  are  nowr  at  wT0X’k  in  this  field.  The 
Protestant  converts  number  2,743;  the  Catholics,  1,358.  The  atti- 
tude of  the  government  is  vexy  different  now-  from  what  it  was  in 
Cax’ey’s  time.  Then  ordex’s  were  issued  that  preaching  be  discon- 
tinued, and  the  issue  of  any  publication  that  had  for  its  object  the 
eonversioix  of  the  natives  was  stx’ietly  prohibited.  Now  chui’ches 
are  open  and  the  Gospel  is  preached,  none  forbidding. 

I visited  the  General  Assembly’s  Institxxtion.  This  is  the  first 
college  founded  by  Duff.  This  illustrious  man  came  to  India  with 
a new  policy.  He  proposed  to  reach  the  bx’ain  of  India  as  wTell  as 
the  heart  and  conscience.  He  proposed  to  do  this  through  an  edix- 
cation  satui’ated  with  Christianity.  He  proposed,  furthex-more,  that 
the  teaching  should  be  done  in  English.  He  began  with  five  boys. 
In  a little  while  he  had  800.  This  institution  has  now  1,000  pupils 
enrolled.  The  schools  for  girls  have  charge  of  about  the  same 


1.  Miss  Mary  Graybiel. 
4.  Miss  Alice  Spradlin.  3. 


2.  Miss  Adelaide  G.  Frost. 

Miss  Bessie  Farrar..  5-  Dr.  Rose  Oxer. 


MAHOBA,  INDIA. 


CALCUTTA  AND  SERAM  PORE 


209 


number.  At  the  Disruption,  Duff  and  his  associates  went  out. 
This  led  to  the  establishment  of  a second  college.  This  is  a pros- 
perous institution,  but  the  attendance  now  is  not  quite  so  large  as 
at  the  other.  All  the  societies  at  work  in  Calcutta  carry  on  consid- 
erable educational  work.  There  are  government  schools  of  all 
grades.  But  in  religion  these  schools  are  neutral.  The  mission 
schools  are  carried  on  with  a view  to  aid  the  evangelistic  work. 
Mr.  J.  C.  White  is  working  among  the  students.  He  is  an  agent 
of  the  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  of  America.  There  are 

6.000  young  men  in  the  different  colleges  in  the  city.  Half  of  these 
are  in  government  schools.  He  has  on  his  books  the  names  of 

1.000  students.  They  come  to  him  to  read  the  Scriptures  and  to 
pray  or  to  talk  about  the  Gospel.  Hindus  of  all  castes  and  of  no 
caste  and  Mohammedans  are  enrolled.  He  has  a reading-room  and 
a chapel.  Thus  far  he  has  not  dared  to  advertise  his  services, 
because  he  is  unable  to  receive  all  who  would  come.  He  has  a 
large  and  fruitful  field  and  is  greatly  encouraged. 

I attended  as  many  church  services  as  I could.  The  pastor  of 
the  English  Baptist  Church  showed  me  the  baptistery  in  which  Jud- 
son  was  baptized.  Carey  served  this  church  as  its  minister  fourteen 
years.  The  East  India  Company  gave  him  a communion  set  of  solid 
silver.  This  is  still  in  use.  Mr.  McDonald  of  the  Free  Church 
took  me  to  an  evangelistic  service  in  the  public  square.  He  was 
associated  with  Duff  for  some  time.  A number  of  Bengalis  spoke. 
Some  spoke  in  English  and  some  in  Bengali.  Several  of  the  speak- 
ers were  Duff’s  pupils.  They  have  his  theory  and  his  pronuncia- 
tion. In  all  the  churches  there  are  memorial  tablets.  They  give 
the  names  and  some  account  of  the  services  rendered.  On  one  of 
these  tablets  are  the  words:  “Remember  them  that  had  the  rule 

over  you,  which  spake  unto  you  the  Word  of  God;  and  considering 
the  issue  of  their  life,  imitate  their  faith.’’  In  the  cathedral  there 
is  a statue  of  Heber.  He  was  the  happy  possessor  of  all  sorts  of 
gifts  and  accomplishments.  He  had  birth,  wit,  fame,  high  charac- 
ter and  wealth.  He  gave  up  all  for  India.  He  died  in  the  prime  of 
life  from  overwork.  In  a poetic  letter  to  his  wife  he  wrote: 

“ If  thou,  my  love,  wert  by  my  side, 

My  babies  at  my  knee, 

How  gaily  would  our  pinnace  glide 
O’er  Gunga’s  mimic  sea. 

“ I miss  thee  at  the  dawning  grey, 

When  o’er  the  deck  reclined, 

In  careless  ease  my  limbs  I lay, 

And  woo  tlie  cooler  wind. 


14 


210 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


“ I miss  thee  when  by  Gunga’s  stream 
My  twilight  steps  I guide, 

But  most  beneath  the  lamp’s  pale  beam, 

I miss  thee  by  my  side. 

“ I spread  my  books,  my  pencil  try, 

The  lingering  noon  to  cheer, 

But  miss  thy  kind  approving  eye, 

Thy  meek  attentive  ear. 

“ But  when  by  morn  and  eve, 

The  star  beholds  me  on  my  knee, 

I feel,  though  thou  art  distant  far, 

Thy  prayers  ascend  for  me.” 

Twelve  miles  from  Calcutta  is  Serampore.  I ran  over  to  see 
this  famous  place.  Once  it  was  the  chief  educational  and  publish- 
ing center  in  India.  It  is  so  no  more.  The  Baptists  have  a school 
with  a hundred  boys  enrolled.  The  principal  showed  me  through 
the  building.  I saw  the  pulpit  in  wrhich  Carey  preached  and  the 
chairs  used  by  him  and  his  colleagues.  I saw  the  house  in  which 
he  lived  and  the  room  in  which  he  died.  Some  one  said  of  the 
house  that  it  was  built  for  the  angels,  so  simple  is  it.  The  princi- 
pal said:  “ Perhaps  it  suited  the  angels;  it  is  a bit  awkward  for 
human  beings.”  I looked  for  Carey’s  garden,  but  found  no  trace 
of  it.  Shortly  before  his  death  he  was  sad.  When  asked  the  rea- 
son he  said,  “After  I am  gone.  Brother  Marshman  will  turn  the 
cows  into  my  garden.”  Carey  was  one  of  the  first  botanists  of  his 
age.  He  took  long  walks  in  his  garden  every  morning.  Someone 
wrote  of  him : 

“ Thou’rt  in  our  hearts,  witli  tresses  thin  and  gray, 

And  eye  that  knew  the  Book  of  Life  so  well, 

And  brow  serene,  as  thou  wert  wont  to  stray 
Amidst  thy  flowers,  like  Adam  ere  he  fell.” 

In  his  last  days,  Daniel  Wilson,  Bishop  of  Calcutta,  came  to 
him  for  his  blessing.  Duff  called.  Carey  said:  “You  are  just 
buckling  on  the  armor,  I am  almost  out  of  the  fray.  Pray  for  me, 
pray!”  When  Duff  was  leaving,  the  dying  saint  called  him  back 
and  said:  “You  have  been  speaking  a great  deal  about  Dr.  Carey, 
Dr.  Carey,  Dr.  Carey.  I beg  of  you  that,  when  I am  gone,  nothing 
may  be  said  of  Dr.  Carey.  Speak,  I beg  of  you,  of  Dr.  Carey’s 
Savior.”  As  the  sun  was  setting,  we  walked  out  to  the  little  grave- 
yard where  “the  three  mighty  ones”  are  buried.  Carey’s  tomb 
contains  his  name  and  the  date  of  his  birth  and  death  and  the 
words:  “ A wretched,  poor,  and  helpless  worm,  on  Thy  kind  arms 
I fall.”  He  was  seventy-two  when  he  died,  and  had  been  in  India 


CALCUTTA  AND  SERAMPORE 


211 


forty-one  years.  Marshman’s  simple  monument  has  on  it  the 
words:  “ They  that  be  wise  shall  shine  as  the  firmament,  and  they 
that  turn  many  to  righteousness  as  the  stars  for  ever.”  Mrs. 
Marshman  was  a great  woman,  and  deserves  honorable  mention. 
She  taught  a school  for  girls  for  forty  years.  She  was  the  pioneer 
in  female  education  in  India. 

The  hotels  of  Calcutta  in  some  respects  differ  from  those  in 
other  cities.  Every  guest  is  expected  to  hire  a “ boy”  to  wait  on 
him  at  table  and  to  care  for  his  room.  Otherwise  he  will  fare 
badly.  As  one  can  be  had  for  sixteen  cents  a day,  the  expense  is 
not  very  great.  All  through  the  East  with  Europeans  dinner  is  a 
high  function.  They  appear  in  full  dress  as  at  a ball.  The  amount 
of  liquor  drunk  is  enormous.  There  are  four  glasses  at  every 
plate.  At  our  table  there  were  over  a hundred  guests.  So  far  as  I 
could  see  there  was  only  one  without  his  bottle,  and  only  modesty 
keeps  me  from  recording  his  name.  One  man  dressed  like  a clergy- 
man drank  as  much  as  the  rest.  These  men  think  they  could  not 
live  without  alcohol.  Fools  and  blind!  No  wonder  that  the 
Hindus  and  Mohammedans  think  Christianity  the  droughtiest  of  all 
faiths.  I rather  like  the  idea  of  full  dress  at  dinner,  and  have 
thought  of  adopting  the  spacious  shirt-front  and  the  swallow- 
tailed coat  on  my  return.  But  as  for  the  alcoholic  beverages,  I 
am  unalterably  and  everlastingly  opposed  to  them. 


XXXIII. 


INDIA  AND  CHRISTIANITY. 

The  Gospel  was  probably  carried  to  India  by  merchants  or 
colonists.  In  the  second  century  the  converts  requested  the  Bishop 
of  Alexandria  to  send  them  a Christian  teacher.  In  response  to 
their  request  Pantaenus  was  selected  and  sent.  He  was  the  head  of 
the  Christian  School  in  that  city,  and  was  the  greatest  scholar  and 
teacher  of  his  time.  He  had  trained  Clement  and  Origen  for  their 
work,  and  missionaries  for  Northern  Africa,  Ethiopia  and  Southern 
Asia.  After  some  time  spent  in  confirming  the  churches  in  India, 
he  returned  to  Alexandria  and  resumed  work  in  the  College. 

The  next  missionaries  came  from  Syria  by  way  of  Persia.  It  is 
generally  believed  that  they  had  adopted  the  Nestorian  heresy. 
Though  Nestorius  had  been  deposed  and  banished  on  account  of  his 
views,  the  community  that  accepted  his  teachings  flourished  and 
sent  missionaries  in  all  directions.  Their  motto  was,  “ Christ  for 
the  whole  world,  and  the  whole  world  for  Christ.”  One  historian 
says  of  them,  “Because  their  faith  was  dark,  their  message  muti- 
lated, their  intellect  darkened,  and  their  life  selfish,  it  was  not  possi- 
ble for  the  colonies  of  Syrian  and  Persian  Christians  dispersed  on 
its  shores  to  bring  India  to  Christ.” 

The  Roman  Catholics  came  to  India  with  the  Portuguese.  They 
undertook  to  bring  the  Syrian  Christians  under  the  control  of  the 
Pope.  At  first  they  sought  to  conciliate  them.  A school  for 
Syrian  youth  was  opened  in  Goa.  Those  who  passed  through  this 
school  were  ordained  as  priests.  But  the  Syrians  refused  to  admit 
them  into  their  churches.  Failing  in  this  policy,  they  resorted  to 
sterner  measures.  One  Syrian  bishop  was  shipped  to  Lisbon  to  be 
tried  as  a heretic.  Another  was  sent  to  Rome  for  the  same  pur- 
pose. The  Inquisition  sent  men  to  prison  and  to  death,  but  the 
effort  to  bring  the  Syrians  to  acknowledge  the  supremacy  of  the 
Church  of  Rome  failed.  The  census  of  1891  gives  the  number  of 
Syrian  Christians  as  200,467. 

Xavier  landed  at  Goa  in  1542.  He  had  been  sent  out  by  the 
King  of  Portugal.  He  found  vice  open  and  defiant  and  shame- 
less. He  rebuked  it  in  high  places  and  in  low  places.  His  method 

212 


f 


ORPHANAGE  IN  DAMOH.  INDIA. 


Mrs.  McGavran.  J.  G.  McGavran.  Miss  Stella  Franklin. 

Mrs.  Rambo.  W.  E.  Rambo.  Miss  Josepha  Franklin. 


MISSIONARIES  IN  DAMOH.  INDIA. 


INDIA  AXD  CERISTIAXITY 


213 


of  evangelizing  was  quite  peculiar.  He  had  translations  made  of 
the  Creed,  the  Lord’s  Prayer  and  the  Ten  Commandments.  These 
he  committed  to  memory.  Then,  with  bell  in  hand,  he  went 
through  the  villages  and  called  the  people  together.  To  these  he 
recited  the  translations,  and  after  each  article  of  the  Creed  he 
asked  them  whether  they  believed.  If  they  assented,  he  baptized 
them  then  and  there.  He  wrote:  “It  often  happens  to  me  that  my 
hands  fail  through  the  fatigue  of  baptizing,  for  I have  baptized  a 
whole  village  in  a single  day;  and  often  by  repeating  so  frequently 
the  Creed  and  other  things,  my  voice  and  strength  have  failed  me.” 
The  Roman  Catholics  boasted  that  they  made  ten  thousand  converts 
in  Travancore  in  a single  month.  The  work  there  has  been  con- 
tinued ever  since.  Catholic  institutions  and  Catholic  workers  are 
found  everywhere.  In  nearly  every  large  city  they  have  a cathe- 
dral. They  have  a strong  staff.  They  have  619  European  mis- 
sionaries and  668  native  priests.  The  converts  in  British  India 
number  1,594,901. 

The  Danes  were  the  first  Protestants  to  aid  in  evangelizing 
India.  Ziegenbalg  and  Plutschau  reached  Tranquebar  in  1706.  As 
soon  as  they  explained  their  object,  they  were  advised  to  return 
home  at  once.  They  were  not  wanted.  They  had  been  sent  out  by 
the  king.  Their  commission  had  been  sealed  with  the  royal  seal. 
That  made  no  difference.  These  men  studied  the  language; 
preached  the  Gospel  to  the  people;  translated  most  of  the  Bible 
into  Tamil;  prepared  books,  and  did  whatever  they  could  for  the 
furtherance  of  the  Gospel.  In  fifty  years  11,000  souls  were  added 
to  the  church. 

The  most  distinguished  of  these  early  missionaries  was  Christian 
Frederic  Schwartz.  He  was  born  in  Prussia,  educated  in  Halle, 
and  came  to  India  in  1750.  Tanjore  and  Trichinopoli  were  the 
scenes  of  his  abundant  labors.  For  fifty  years  he  went  about  doing 
good.  The  poor  and  injured  looked  to  him  as  a friend  and  advo- 
cate. The  great  and  powerful  yielded  to  him  the  highest  homage 
ever  paid  in  that  part  of  the  globe  to  European  virtue.  In  the 
midst  of  war  in  the  Carnatic,  Hyder  Ali  said  to  his  officers,  “Permit 
the  venei’able  father  Schwartz  to  pass  unmolested,  and  show  him 
respect  and  kindness,  for  he  is  a holy  man  and  means  no  harm  to 
my  government.”  Once  the  Rajah  of  Tanjore  wanted  to  send  him 
on  a political  mission  to  Madras.  He  said,  “Padre,  I have  confi- 
dence in  you,  because  you  are  indifferent  to  money.”  He  was 
revered  by  the  natives  of  every  degree  and  every  sect.  He  lived  in 
a room  in  an  old  Hindu  building,  which  was  just  large  enough  to 


214 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


hold  himself  and  his  bed.  He  ate  the  food  of  the  natives.  His 
salary  was  about  $250  a year.  He  lived  to  see  10,000  converts. 
His  last  words  were:  “O  Lord,  hitherto  Thou  hast  preserved  me; 
hitherto  Thou  hast  brought  me  ; and  hast  bestowed  innumerable 
benefits  upon  me.  Do  what  is  pleasing  in  Thy  sight.  I commend 
my  spirit  into  Thy  hands;  cleanse  and  adorn  it  with  the  right- 
eousness of  my  Redeemer,  and  receive  me  into  the  arms  of  Thy 
mercy.” 

William  Carey  arrived  in  Calcutta  in  1793.  Before  the  time  of 
his  arrival,  and  long  after,  most  of  the  Europeans  in  India  were 
opposed  to  missions.  Each  factory  had  its  chaplain  and  school- 
master, and  provided  a decent  place  for  worship.  The  Sunday 
sermon  was  followed  by  gambling,  shooting,  drinking  and  racing. 
The  directors  passed  pious  resolutions  from  time  to  time.  They 
went  so  far  as  to  adopt  a form  of  prayer  for  their  servants.  They 
were  concerned,  so  they  said,  that  those  Indian  nations  among 
whom  we  dwell,  seeing  our  sober  and  righteous  conversation,  may 
be  induced  to  have  a just  esteem  for  our  most  holy  profession  of 
the  Gospel.  But  their  agents  were  hostile,  and  wished  to  be  let 
alone.  Some  of  the  leading  officials  lived  in  open  sin.  They  had 
zenanas  filled  with  black  beauties,  and  amused  them  at  times  by 
serving  their  gods.  Drunkenness  was  associated  with  Christianity 
as  an  almost  necessary  accompaniment  of  conversion.  “What!” 
was  the  indignant  answer  of  a man  to  a missionary  who  urged 
upon  him  the  baptism  of  his  son,  “would  you  have  me  make  him  a 
drunkard!”  Henry  Martyn  did  not  drink.  The  people  said  of 
him,  “The  Dinapore  Padre  has  turned  Mussulman.”  Sir  Thomas- 
Roe  said  the  natives  say,  “Christian  religion,  devil  religion;  Chris- 
tian much  drink;  Christian  do  much  wrong;  much  beat;  much 
abuse  others.”  Everything  from  abroad  was  labeled  Christian. 
Every  European  was  regarded  as  a disciple  of  Christ,  no  matter 
how  corrupt  he  might  be  in  heart,  in  thought  and  in  character.  It 
was  in  such  a community  that  Carey  felt  called  of  God  to  labor. 
At  first  he  was  ignored.  He  was  an  obscure  vagrant,  and  conse- 
quently beneath  official  notice.  When  Marshman  and  Ward  joined 
him,  it  was  deemed  prudent  to  make  Serampore  their  home  and 
the  center  of  their  operations.  There  they  set  up  their  printing- 
press  in  the  name  of  the  Lord ; from  Serampore  they  sent  the  Word 
of  Life  in  many  languages  to  the  peoples  of  India.  The  feelings  of 
these  three  men  were  expressed  in  their  own  words:  “Let  us  give 

ourselves  up  unreservedly  to  this  glorious  cause.  Let  us  never  think 
that  our  time,  our  gifts,  our  strength,  our  families,  or  even  the 


INDIA  AND  CHRISTIANITY 


215 


clothes  we  wear,  are  our  own.  Let  us  sanctify  them  all  to  God  and 
his  cause.  Oh,  that  he  may  sanctify  us  for  this  service!  Let  us 
forever  shut  out  the  idea  of  laying  up  a dowry  for  ourselves  or  our 
children.  If  we  are  enabled  to  glorify  God  with  our  bodies  and 
spirits  which  are  his,  our  wants  will  be  his  care.”  Carey’s  salary 
as  teacher  and  translator  for  the  government  was  1,250  rupees  a 
month.  His  associates  earned  large  sums  in  the  printing  office  and 
in  other  ways.  But  Carey  lived  on  fifty  rupees  a month;  Marsh- 
man  on  thirty,  and  Ward  on  twenty.  Carey  needed  more  than  the 
others  because  of  his  duties  at  the  college  and  his  appearance  at  the 
Government  House.  The  rest  of  their  earnings  went  into  the  fund 
of  the  mission. 

At  the  present  time  there  are  over  sixty  societies  at  work  in 
India.  The  foreign  ordained  missionaries  number  868;  the  native 
ordained  ministers,  797;  the  foreign  layworkers,  118;  the 
native  layworkers,  3,491.  The  foreign  women  number  711;  the 
native  women,  3,278.  According  to  the  census  of  1891,  the  Prot- 
estant Christians  in  British  India  number  648,843.  The  Gospel  is 
preached  in  chapels,  in  the  bazars,  in  the  homes,  and  wherever  the 
people  will  listen.  Due  emphasis  is  laid  upon  preaching.  Not  only 
is  the  Gospel  preached,  but  the  sick  are  healed.  The  foreign  doc- 
tors number  ninety-seven;  the  native  doctors,  168.  India  has  166 
mission  hospitals  and  dispensaries.  A Hindu  said  to  Dr.  Clark, 
“ There  are  nine  women  in  our  house,  and  they  are  all  donkeys  but 
one;  she  is  sick;  come  and  heal  her.”  He  did  so.  Afterwards  he 
asked  this  man  what  it  was  he  feared  most  from  the  missionaries. 
He  answered:  “ There  are  your  preaching  missionaries;  we  don’t 
mind  them,  we  needn’t  listen  to  them;  and  there  is  your  educa- 
tional missionary;  we  don’t  mind  him,  we  needn’t  hear  him;  there 
are  your  books  and  papers,  but  we  need  not  read  them ; what  we 
really  fear  is  your  Christian  women,  and  we  are  afraid  of  your  medi- 
cal missionaries,  for  by  your  Christian  women  you  win  our  wives, 
and  by  your  medical  missionaries  you  win  our  hearts,  and  when  that 
is  done  what  is  there  for  us  but  to  do  as  you  say?  ” Schools  and 
colleges  have  been  opened.  In  these  young  men  are  being  trained 
for  the  work  of  the  ministry.  India  must  be  evangelized  by 
Indians.  The  girls  in  boarding  schools  number  7,302;  the  girls  in 
day  schools,  62,414;  the  pupils  in  Sunday-schools,  135,565.  In 
addition  to  what  is  done  in  schools,  32,659  women  are  taught  in 
their  homes.  The  credit  for  the  education  of  women  belongs 
entirely  to  the  missionaries.  Not  only  so,  but  the  Bible  has  been 
translated  into  most  of  the  languages  of  India.  An  Anglo-Indian 


216 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


said:  “The  Bible  is  the  best  of  all  missionaries.  It  finds  access 
through  doors  that  are  closed  to  the  human  foot,  and  into  countries 
where  missionaries  have  not  yet  ventured  to  go;  and  above  all  it 
speaks  to  the  consciences  of  men  with  a power  that  no  human  voice 
can  carry.  It  is  the  living  seed  of  God,  and  soon  it  springs  up, 
men  know  not  how,  and  bears  fruit  unto  everlasting  life.”  Tracts 
are  printed  and  scattered  broadcast.  Every  method  that  promises 
good  results  is  tried. 

There  is  abundant  evidence  that  the  labor  of  the  missionaries 
has  not  been  in  vain  in  the  Lord.  At  the  present  rate  of  progress 
there  will  be  ten  million  Christians  in  India  in  the  next  fifty  years, 
and  two  hundred  and  fifty  millions  in  a century.  It  may  be  said 
that  the  greatest  success  has  been  won  among  the  lowest  castes. 
This  is  quite  true.  It  is  now  as  it  was  in  our  Lord’s  time.  The 
question  then  was,  “Have  any  of  the  rulers  or  the  Pharisees 
believed?”  From  these  despised  castes  come  men  who  compete 
successfully  with  the  highest  castes  in  every  direction — morally, 
socially  and  intellectually.  Under  the  Gospel  these  lower  castes 
have  advanced  by  leaps  and  bounds,  and  have  taken  their  position 
almost  in  the  front  ranks  of  Indian  society.  Bishop  Caldwell  said 
that  the  Christians  of  India  have  no  need  to  shrink  from  compari- 
son with  Christians  in  a similar  station  of  life,  and  similarly  circum- 
stanced, in  England  or  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  Lord 
Lawrence  has  said,  “Notwithstanding  all  that  the  English  people 
have  done  to  benefit  India,  the  missionaries  have  done  more  than 
all  other  agencies  combined.”  The  greatest  of  modern  Indians  has 
said,  “The  spirit  of  Christianity  has  already  pervaded  the  whole 
atmosphere  of  Indian  society,  and  we  breathe,  think,  feel  arid 
move  in  a Christian  atmosphere.  Native  society  is  being  roused, 
enlightened  and  reformed  under  the  influence  of  Christian  educa- 
tion.” 

Most,  if  not  all,  of  the  large  cities  are  occupied.  But  there 
remains  much  to  be  done.  The  great  faiths  of  India  are  not  dis- 
posed to  yield  without  a struggle.  Their  champions  are  girding 
themselves  for  the  conflict.  If  the  churches  do  their  duty,  there 
can  be  no  doubt  as  to  the  final  issue.  The  divine  decree  has  gone 
forth,  “ My  word  shall  not  return  unto  me  void,  but  it  shall  accom- 
plish that  which  I please,  and  prosper  in  the  thing  whereunto  I 
sent  it.” 


FIRST  CHURCH  IX  HONOLULU.  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 


G.  W.  WHARTON  AND  HIS  HELPERS,  INDIA. 


XXXIV. 


THE  WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  INDIA. 

Our  first  workers  reached  the  field  in  October,  1882.  They 
began  their  work  in  the  Central  Provinces.  These  provinces  have 
an  area  of  one  hundred  and  sixteen  thousand  square  miles,  and  a 
population  numbering  thirteen  millions.  The  first  stations  were 
opened  in  Hurda  and  Bilaspur.  Hurda  is  four  hundred  and  seven- 
teen miles  from  Bombay;  Bilaspur  is  five  hundred  and  three  miles 
from  Calcutta.  As  I entered  India  from  the  east,  my  first  visit 
was  made  in  Bilaspur.  A ride  of  twenty-four  hours  brought  me  to 
the  station.  M.  D.  Adams  and  E.  M.  Gordon  were  waiting  to 
welcome  me.  In  a few  minutes  I was  in  the  mission  bungalow, 
where  all  my  needs  were  supplied. 

In  the  spring  of  1885  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Adams,  Miss  Graybiel,  Miss 
Boyd  and  Miss  Kingsbury  made  Bilaspur  their  home.  There  are  in 
this  district  one  million  five  hundred  thousand  souls.  The  work  is 
conducted  along  the  following  lines:  Evangelistic,  medical,  zenana, 
educational  and  orphanage.  M.  D.  Adams  gives  his  strength  to 
preaching  in  the  villages  and  in  the  church.  He  is  assisted  by  two 
good  evangelists.  He  superintends  the  boys’  school  and  the 
Sunday-schools.  The  Sunday-schools  have  a total  enrollment  of 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  children.  The  boys’  school  has  an 
average  attendance  of  fifty-seven.  The  boys  are  Hindus,  Moham- 
medans and  Christians.  The  church  has  received  seventy-five 
membei’s.  Some  of  these  are  dead;  some  have  gone  away;  a few 
have  gone  back.  Mrs.  Adams  has  charge  of  the  book-store,  keeps 
house,  visits  the  women  in  their  homes,  and  renders  efficient  service 
in  the  day  and  Sunday-schools. 

Miss  Boyd  gives  her  time  to  work  among  the  women.  At  first 
she  had  to  seek  for  an  entrance  into  the  homes,  and  to  encounter 
many  rebuffs.  Men  and  boys  used  to  follow  and  mock  and  jeer. 
Now  she  is  sought  or  called  in  as  she  is  passing,  and  asked  to  teach 
in  their  homes.  Rebuffs  are  less  frequent,  and  the  boys  are  respect- 
ful. She  visits  all  classes,  from  the  Brahman  and  Mohammedan  to 
the  outcast  sweepers.  She  does  not  exclude  even  the  leper.  At 
each  visit  she  teaches  the  Scriptures.  In  some  instances  she  has 

217 


218 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


taught  the  women  to  read  and  write.  Many  houses  are  still  closed 
against  her.  Miss  Kingsbury  has  charge  of  the  orphanage.  There 
are  thirty-one  girls  under  her  care.  Their  ages  range  from  three 
years  to  nineteen.  They  are  taught  to  cook,  sew,  wash,  sweep,  and 
to  do  all  kinds  of  useful  work.  Their  dress  is  becoming;  their 
faces  are  clean  and  bright.  They  look  as  if  they  belonged  to  a 
different  race  from  that  seen  on  the  street.  The  day  begins  with  a 
scriptural  lesson.  On  Sunday  they  study  the  same  lesson  as  the 
schools  at  home.  The  aim  is  to  train  the  girls  to  live  faithful  lives 
among  their  own  people.  The  transforming  power  of  the  Gospel  is 
evident  here.  Lying  and  abuse  are  giving  place  to  truth  and  gen- 
tleness. Moral  thoughtfulness  takes  the  place  of  selfishness  and 
carelessness.  Twelve  of  the  girls  have  become  Christians;  three 
are  married. 

Mrs.  Lohr  has  charge  of  two  schools  for  girls.  The  school  first 
opened  has  one  hundred  enrolled  and  an  average  attendance  of 
eighty.  Children  from  Brahman  and  Mohammedan  homes,  as  well 
as  children  from  low  castes,  are  found  in  this  school.  The  girls  in 
the  orphanage  are  sent  here.  They  are  taught  all  the  common 
branches.  In  addition,  they  are  taught  to  sing,  to  sew,  to  knit,  to 
draw,  and  many  other  useful  things.  The  Bible  is  not  neglected. 
In  1894  three  went  up  for  examination  as  teachers.  Two  passed. 
These  are  from  the  orphanage,  and  they  are  now  helping  Mrs.  Lohr 
in  the  work.  The  next  year  she  sent  up  three  more;  all  passed. 
Two  of  these  are  now  taking  a normal  course.  The  government 
gives  a grant-in-aid  of  about  seventy  dollars  a year.  It  has  prom- 
ised $125  towards  the  enlargement  of  the  building.  Mrs.  Lohr  is  a 
born  teacher.  Her  ability,  education  and  experience  qualify  her 
for  the  place  she  fills.  The  Inspector  has  acknowledged  that  she  is 
doing  a noble  work.  A Brahman  told  her  that  the  people  could 
never  be  sufficiently  grateful  to  her  for  her  services.  The  second 
school  is  in  a poorer  part  of  the  town.  Nevertheless,  it  has  grown 
year  by  year.  Beginning  with  fifteen  pupils,  it  now  has  thirty. 
Women  do  not  count  for  much  in  India.  As  a result,  the  educa- 
tion of  girls  is  not  prized  very  highly.  This  is  specially  true  of  the 
poor.  Besides  her  other  duties,  Mrs.  Lohr  has  a Sunday-school  at 
the  station  for  English  and  Eurasian  children. 

Dr.  E.  C.  and  Dr.  Lillian  B.  Miller  are  giving  most  of  their 
attention  to  the  language.  They  have  been  wisely  advised  to  do 
this.  In  their  leisure  hours  they  superintend  the  grading  of  the 
hospital  grounds.  They  are  arranging  their  medicines  and  surgical 
instruments,  and  are  planning  for  their  work  after  they  return 


THE  WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  INDIA 


219 


from  the  hills  next  autumn.  In  the  meantime,  though  they  are  not 
seeking  a practice,  they  have  to  treat  many  cases.  People  come 
to  them  every  day,  and  they  cannot  send  them  away  without  relief. 
The  report  has  gone  out  that  two  new  physicians  have  come  to 
take  up  the  work  of  Drs.  Merrill  and  Baldwin.  I heard  compli- 
mentary remarks  on  all  sides  of  these  good  missionaries,  who  are 
now  at  home  on  furlough. 

There  are  two  bungalows  in  Bilaspur,  two  schools,  an  orphanage 
and  a hospital.  One  school  building  is  used  as  a chapel.  The 
orphanage  has  been  enlarged  and  will  accommodate  fifty  girls.  It 
will  soon  be  full.  The  hospital  consists  of  three  buildings.  The 
materials  and  workmanship  are  of  the  best.  Missionaries  are 
learning  that  it  pays  to  put  up  good  buildings.  The  first  cost  may 
be  greater,  but  it  is  cheaper  in  the  end.  The  great  enemy  of  build- 
ings in  India  is  the  white  ant.  If  walls  and  floors  are  of  hard  brick 
or  stone,  and  rafters  and  joists  of  iron,  the  white  ant  can  do  noth- 
ing. But  if  the  walls  are  of  sun-dried  brick  and  the  rafters  of  wood, 
the  occupant  must  be  on  his  guard,  or  he  will  have  the  roof  about 
his  ears. 

During  my  stay  in  Bilaspur  I visited  all  the  schools,  and  was 
pleased  with  what  I saw  of  the  work.  On  Sunday  I spoke  through 
Mr.  Adams.  The  house  was  full.  At  the  close  we  had  the  com- 
munion. It  was  a season  of  refreshing  from  the  presence  of  the 
Lord.  One  evening  I went  out  to  the  bazar  and  heard  the  evan- 
gelists preach.  The  audience  came  and  went.  Some  listened 
intently,  others  turned  away  as  soon  as  they  understood  the  nature 
of  the  message.  We  visited  the  temples  and  shrines.  One  priest 
sitting  on  a tiger  skin  under  a huge  umbrella  assured  us  that  if  we 
wanted  children  our  prayers  would  be  granted,  if  we  made  an  offer- 
ing to  his  god.  This  seems  to  be  the  great  wish  of  Orientals.  We 
met  one  man  offering  flowers  and  pouring  out  water  over  every 
idol.  He  had  been  praying  for  children  for  ten  years,  and  in  vain. 
One  evening  the  ladies  gave  a supper  in  native  style.  The  orphans 
and  all  the  Christians  were  present.  There  was  no  table,  or  chair, 
or  knife,  or  fork,  or  spoon.  We  sat  on  the  floor.  Curry  and  rice 
and  dhal  were  served  on  a banana  leaf.  We  ate  with  our  fingers. 
Cakes  and  sweets  were  served  at  the  close  of  the  feast.  Then  one 
of  the  Christians  made  an  address  of  welcome,  to  which  I responded 
as  well  as  I could.  There  were  about  seventy  present.  It  was  an 
evening  long  to  be  remembered.  One  could  not  look  over  that 
company  without  feeling  that  the  missionaries  are  helping  to  make 
the  kingdom  of  God  come  in  India. 


220 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


From  Bilaspur  I visited  Mungeli.  This  place  is  distant  thirty- 
one  miles.  The  bungalow  was  built  and  work  begun  by  G.  W. 
Jackson  in  1887.  Four  years  later  his  health  failed,  and  he  left  for 
home.  E.  M.  Gordon  was  engaged  the  same  year.  The  next  year 
W.  E.  Cooper  joined  the  mission.  It  was  at  this  point  that  Dr. 
Hitt  was  stationed.  The  people  speak  of  him  with  affection.  In 
1894  Mr.  CoojDer  resigned  and  Dr.  Hitt  left  for  home.  Since  then 
Mr.  Gordon  has  been  alone.  One  year  he  had  only  one  visitor.  He 
evangelizes  in  Mungeli  and  in  one  hundred  and  fifty  villages  within 
a circuit  of  five  miles.  He  uses  the  magic  lantern  to  attract  the 
people  and  to  impress  the  truth.  There  are  seventeen  Christians  in 
Mungeli.  Though  poor,  they  are  collecting  a fund  to  pay  for  a 
place  of  worship.  One  of  the  members  is  blind.  He  was  taught  to 
read  by  Mr.  Gordon.  For  three  years  he  has  been  in  the  Training 
School  in  Hurda.  Mr.  Wharton  speaks  of  him  as  one  of  the  bright- 
est young  men  he  has  ever  met.  Two  schools  are  conducted.  One 
is  a night  school  and  is  for  those  who  cannot  attend  by  day.  Last 
year  the  teacher  became  a Christian.  The  parents  became  alarmed 
and  took  away  their  children.  They  are  now  returning.  Dr.  Mil- 
ler and  Mr.  Adams  went  with  me  and  added  much  to  the  profitable- 
ness of  the  visit.  We  called  to  see  the  school.  We  met  the  Chris- 
tians in  two  services  and  exhorted  them  to  cleave  to  the  Lord.  The 
work  in  Mungeli  is  said  to  be  in  some  respects  more  promising  than 
at  any  other  station.  The  converts  are  aggressive,  and  are  earnestly 
seeking  to  win  others  to  the  belief  of  the  truth.  Mr.  Gordon  stands 
at  his  solitary  post  like  a sentinel.  When  I was  there  he  was  antici- 
pating that  he  would  have  an  associate  within  a few  weeks,  but  his 
hopes  were  dashed  for  the  present.  Miss  Graybiel  said  to  me  later, 
“ Mr.  Gordon  is  the  hero  of  our  mission.” 

Every  hour  was  full  of  interest.  The  children  came  in  and  gave 
us  an  exhibition.  They  sang  and  declaimed.  We  asked  some  ques- 
tions, and  were  gratified  with  the  knowledge  which  the  answers 
evinced.  We  left  the  shepherd  and  his  little  flock  with  admiration 
and  hope.  Such  fidelity  cannot  but  bear  much  fruit.  On  our 
return  to  Bilaspur  we  had  a service  of  prayer  and  exhortation  and 
song.  All  the  missionaries  were  present.  That  evening  I left  for 
Damoh.  They  all  came  down  to  the  train  to  send  me  on  my  way 
rejoicing.  I shall  long  cherish  the  remembrance  of  this  visit.  I 
have  reasons  for  profound  gratitude,  but  I need  not  publish  them. 
The  children  were  as  kind  as  their  parents.  May  the  Lord  make 
liis  face  to  shine  upon  them  and  give  them  peace. 

It  took  three  days  to  get  from  Bilaspur  to  Damoh.  The  train 


GIRLS’  ORPHANAGE.  BILASPUR,  INDIA. 


GIRLS’  SCHOOL  IN  BILASPUR,  INDIA. 


THE  WORK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IK  INDIA 


221 


brought  me  as  far  as  Jubbalpur.  At  this  point  John  G.  McGavran 
met  me.  He  escorted  me  the  rest  of  the  way.  We  had  to  go  sixty- 
six  miles  in  a horse  tonga.  It  took  a day  and  a half  to  cover  this 
distance.  John  was  one  of  my  students  in  Bethany.  The  hours 
passed  rapidly  as  we  talked  of  old  scenes  and  old  friends,  and  of  the 
work  in  this  district.  He  was  married  recently,  and  is  the  happiest 
man  in  India.  A railway  is  being  built  through  Damoh.  When  it 
is  opened  this  station  will  be  easy  of  access. 

The  work  in  Damoh  began  about  a year  ago.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  W. 
E.  Rambo  and  Mr.  McGavran  were  the  first  workers.  Miss  Josepha 
and  Miss  Stella  Franklin  and  Mrs.  McGavran  joined  them  later. 
Damoh  was  selected  on  account  of  its  healthfulness,  and  on  account 
of  its  central  location.  The  workers  live  in  tents  and  in  a house 
built  of  mud  and  thatch.  They  have  had  much  difficulty  in  getting 
land.  This  delayed  the  building  and  hindered  the  work  in  other 
ways.  Damoh  is  the  site  of  the  orphanage  for  boys.  The  founda- 
tion of  the  first  building  is  nearly  done.  The  plans  for  the  bunga- 
low are  almost  ready.  The  work  on  both  will  be  pressed  to 
completion. 

I found  Mr.  Rambo  and  family  ready  to  leave  for  Bombay,  and 
perhaps  for  home.  He  was  taken  down  with  typhoid  fever  in 
August,  and  has  not  been  well  since.  The  doctors  are  doubtful  of 
his  recovery.  He  goes  to  Bombay  to  consult  with  the  physicians  in 
charge  of  the  General  Hospital.  If  they  agree  with  Drs.  Durand 
and  Quinn  he  will  go  home.  It  was  expected  that  he  would  take 
charge  of  the  orphans.  That  work  will  now  fall  into  other  hands. 
Mr.  McGavran  had  equipped  himself  for  evangelistic  work  in  the 
villages.  Now  he  has  the  oversight  of  the  boys  and  of  the  building 
operations.  He  has  to  go  to  the  quarry  for  stone,  and  to  the  jungle 
for  timber.  He  conducts  Sunday-schools  in  the  town,  and  preaches 
as  he  is  able.  Miss  Josepha  Franklin  teaches  the  orphans.  She 
aims  to  do  the  same  grade  of  work  that  is  done  at  home.  The  boys 
sit  on  the  floor.  The  school  has  almost  no  apparatus.  Neverthe- 
less the  boys  are  making  good  progress.  The  Bible  is  taught  every 
day.  The  teaching  throughout  is  essentially  Christian.  Mrs. 
McGavran  teaches  them  to  sing.  Some  of  the  orphans  are  too 
young  to  attend  school.  Miss  Franklin  has  these  in  a little  house 
next  to  the  one  in  which  she  lives. 

The  orphanage  work  began  in  Bilaspur.  Last  July  the  boys 
were  removed  to  Damoh.  Then  there  were  twenty-four  in  all. 
Before  the  end  of  the  year  over  thirty  more  were  added.  Scarcely  a 
week  passes  without  some  coming.  The  crops  have  failed  for  four 


222 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


years  in  succession.  Parents  die  of  famine,  and  leave  their  children 
to  be  cared  for  by  others.  Some  brought  their  little  ones  and  said, 
“We  are  dying  of  hunger;  we  have  had  nothing  to  eat  for  days; 
take  our  children  and  give  us  some  food.”  Officials  have  sent  chil- 
dren to  them.  Some  of  these  have  a pathetic  history.  They  wan- 
dered about  eating  refuse  left  by  animals,  or  subsisting  on  such 
fruits  as  they  could  find  in  the  jungles.  At  night  they  slept  beside 
a tree,  or  a stone,  or  in  a ditch.  Their  hair  grew  long  and  matted.1 
Their  bodies  were  encrusted  with  dirt.  Their  blood  has  been 
impoverished.  As  a result,  running  sores  break  out,  and  maggots 
breed  in  their  hair,  and  in  almost  every  part  of  their  bodies.  Their 
eyes  are  sunken.  The  skin  lies  in  wrinkles  over  the  bones.  These 
children  are  devoid  of  energy,  and  sit  listless  for  days.  Some  come 
crawling,  because  they  are  too  weak  to  walk.  In  a few  weeks,  if 
they  are  not  too  far  gone,  they  begin  to  improve.  They  gain  in 
flesh  and  in  animal  spirits.  Several  were  pointed  out  to  me.  They 
came  to  the  orphanage  resembling  a bag  of  bones ; now  they  are 
stout  and  strong,  and  give  promise  of  long  life.  The  aim  of  the 
workers  is  to  take  these  children  and  train  them  for  lives  of  useful- 
ness and  nobleness.  An  industrial  department  has  been  started. 
The  boys  are  taught  to  sweep,  to  dust,  to  dx*aw  water,  to  tend  cat- 
tle, and  to  work  in  the  garden.  As  soon  as  practicable,  they  will  be 
taught  trades,  so  that  they  can  earn  their  own  living  and  help  sup- 
port the  Lord’s  work  in  India. 

I visited  the  day  and  Sunday-schools.  Miss  Franklin  loves  these 
boys  and  they  love  her.  It  was  Topsy  who  said  that  Miss  Ophelia 
would  as  soon  touch  a toad  as  to  touch  her.  It  is  not  so  with  Miss 
Franklin.  She  is  not  afraid  to  touch  her  boys.  She  is  deeply 
interested  in  all  that  concerns  them.  They  respond  to  her  interest 
and  affection.  Lying  and  stealing  and  cruelty  are  abandoned  under 
the  influence  of  her  life  and  teaching.  The  boys  are  remarkably 
well  informed  in  the  Scriptures,  considering  the  time  they  have 
been  in  the  orphanage.  Some  have  confessed  their  faith  in  Christ 
and  have  been  baptized;  others  are  inquiring.  Mrs.  McGavran  was 
born  in  Bengal.  She  is  familiar  with  mission  methods  and  mission 
work.  She  knows  much  of  the  language  spoken  in  Damoh,  and  is 
able  to  render  valuable  service  in  the  schools  and  in  other  depart- 
ments. Miss  Stella  Franklin  is  giving  her  whole  time  and  energy  to 
the  language.  Within  a year  after  her  arrival  she  will  be  able  to 
undertake  some  work. 

I left  Damoh  for  Bina.  The  work  at  this  station  is  about  a year 
and  a half  old.  The  staff  consists  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ben  Mitchell, 


THE  WOBK  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHEIST  12 V INDIA 


223 


Miss  Mattie  W.  Burgess,  Miss  Ida  Kinsey,  and  the  native  helpers. 
Since  locating  here  Mr.  Mitchell  has  given  most  of  his  time  and 
strength  to  the  erection  of  the  bungalow  and  out-buildings  and  to 
preaching.  The  bungalow  is  a very  convenient  and  substantial 
building.  The  walls  are  of  stone,  the  roof  is  of  tiles,  and  the 
rafters  of  steel.  He  has  planned  and  built  for  the  centuries, 
building  in  India  is  a serious  matter.  The  workmen  must  be  con- 
stantly watched.  Every  stone  must  be  inspected.  The  most 
reliable  contractor  cannot  be  fully  trusted. 

Mr.  Mitchell  has  regular  services  for  the  English  and  Eura- 
sian people  of  Bina.  Once  a month  he  goes  to  Mahoba.  He  is 
preparing  to  build  a chapel.  He  hopes  to  raise  the  money  on  the 
ground.  Mrs.  Mitchell  speaks  with  the  beggars  at  the  gate,  and 
sees  that  the  hungry  are  fed.  She  makes  temporary  provision  for 
the  orphans  sent  to  the  bungalow,  and  forwards  them  either  to  Damoh 
or  Mahoba.  Besides  she  directs  the  labors  of  two  evangelists  and 
goes  with  them  to  the  villages  and  towns  whenever  possible  and 
addresses  the  people.  In  addition  to  her  other  duties,  she  keeps 
house.  This  is  an  important  item,  as  the  efficiency  of  the  workers 
depends  upon  their  health.  Miss  Burgess  spends  most  of  her  morn- 
ings in  the  villages.  The  native  preachei’s  often  go  with  her  and 
assist.  In  one  village  she  has  l’egular  meetings  with  a number  of 
gii'ls  and  women.  In  the  afternoon  she  works  among  the  women  of 
Etawah.  She  is  admitted  to  fifteen  houses ; befoi-e  others  she  reads 
and  sings.  Frequently  she  sits  down  with  the  women  in  the  sti’eet 
to  tell  them  of  the  love  of  Christ.  She  has  found  only  two  or  three 
that  can  read.  Their  minds  and  heai'ts  have  been  starved  from 
birth.  They  listen  while  she  talks,  but  when  she  goes  back  they 
have  forgotten  most  that  she  has  said.  Miss  Kinsey  has  chai’ge 
of  two  schools;  one  for  boys,  and  one  for  girls.  The  parents  are 
not  concei’ned  about  the  education  of  their  daughters ; consequently 
their  attendance  is  irregular.  The  lai-gest  boy  in  the  school  is  mak- 
ing good  progress,  and  says  he  is  going  to  become  a Christian. 
These  schools  ai'e  self-supporting.  Miss  Kinsey  has  a Sunday- 
school  with  about  sixty  enrolled.  She  has  met  with  some  opposi- 
tion from  the  Mussulmans,  but  this  is  dying  down. 

I went  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mitchell  and  Miss  Bui’gess  out  into 
the  villages.  They  stood  under  a tree  and  sang.  At  once  the  peo- 
ple began  to  assemble.  The  women  were  a little  shy  and  looked 
ai’ound  cornex-s  and  out  of  dooi’s.  They  wei’e  near  enough  to  see 
and  hear.  The  evangelist  spoke.  In  most  cases  the  attention  was 
perfect.  One  man  said,  “We  did  not  send  for  you;  we  have  our 


224 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


own  gods  and  are  content.”  As  of  old,  Christ  is  found  of  them 
that  sought  him  not.  We  went  from  place  to  place  all  day.  The 
services  were  deeply  interesting.  The  day  reminded  me  of  what 
was  said  of  the  Master,  “ He  went  about  through  the  cities  and 
villages,  preaching  and  bringing  the  good  tidings  of  the  kingdom  of 
God.”  I called  to  see  the  schools,  and  heard  the  little  ones  sing, 
and  saw  their  slates.  Miss  Kinsey  has  reason  to  feel  gratified  over 
the  work  of  her  pupils.  Mr.  Mitchell  went  with  me  to  see  the  local 
Rajah.  He  is  a little  wizened  bit  of  humanity.  Though  he  has 
never  been  out  of  India,  he  speaks  English  well.  He  has  been  kind 
to  the  mission.  He  gave  it  ten  acres  of  ground  for  an  annual  rental 
of  less  than  a dollar.  He  has  helped  the  workers  in  many  ways.  He 
playfully  speaks  of  Miss  Kinsey  as  “the  superintendent  of  public 
instruction.”  He  gave  us  some  perfume  and  a betel  nut,  and 
offered  us  the  use  of  his  hookah.  He  gave  us  a ride  on  his  ele- 
phant, and  sent  us  some  sugar  cane  as  a present.  One  evening 
there  was  a social  in  the  bungalow.  The  friends  and  neighbors 
gathered,  and  filled  the  parlors  and  halls.  Before  leaving  one  man 
made  a little  speech.  He  thanked  the  workers  for  the  interest 
taken  in  the  children,  and  for  the  pleasures  they  gave  them  on 
Christmas.  Referring  to  the  preaching,  he  said  it  was  almost  as 
good  as  he  heard  among  the  Catholics.  He  meant  that  for  the  high- 
est compliment  he  could  pay.  After  two  full  and  delightful  days  in 
Bina,  I took  the  train  for  Hurda. 

Hurda  is  ten  hours  by  rail  from  Bina.  G.  L.  Wharton  and  his 
son  Lawrence  came  out  a distance  of  twenty  miles  to  meet  me. 
Mrs.  Wharton  and  Miss  Grace  and  Dr.  Durand  were  at  the  station 
to  reinforce  the  welcome  already  received,  and  to  take  me  to  the 
mission  bungalow.  The  other  workers  had  their  schools  to  look 
after,  and  could  not  come.  Hurda  is  our  oldest  station  in  India. 
The  staff  consists  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wharton,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Durand, 
Mrs.  Nellie  L.  Jackson,  Miss  Hattie  L.  Judson,  Miss  Mary  Thomp- 
son, and  the  native  assistants.  Mrs.  Durand  is  in  America  at 
present  on  account  of  sickness.  Miss  Thompson  is  from  Australia, 
and  is  supported  by  the  churches  in  that  country.  The  work  of 
each  is  somewhat  as  follows: 

Mr.  Wharton  has  charge  of  the  Bible  and  Training  School.  He 
teaches  twenty  hours  a week.  He  superintends  the  evangelistic 
work  in  the  bazar  and  in  three  out-stations.  In  addition  to  these 
duties  he  preaches  for  the  church  and  teaches  a Bible  class  in  the 
Sunday-school.  Mrs.  Wharton  has  charge  of  the  book-shop,  con- 
ducts an  English  Sunday-school,  does  zenana  work  and  looks  after 


E.  II.  Gordon. 


Dr.  Anna  M.  Gordon. 


MUNGELI,  INDIA. 


THE  WORE  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  INDIA 


225 


the  sick  women,  especially  in  the  church.  Nathoo  Lai  evangelizes 
in  Charwa  and  neighboring  villages,  and  has  charge  of  two  Sunday- 
schools.  His  wife  goes  with  him  and  teaches  the  women.  Jagan- 
nath  preaches  in  Rahatgaon  and  teaches  a day  and  Sunday-school. 
Dr.  John  Panna  has  a weekly  dispensary,  and  preaches  to  the 
people  in  Timarni.  There  are  fourteen  Sunday-schools  in  Hurda, 
with  four  hundred  and  seventy-seven  pupils  enrolled.  Dr.  Durand 
visits  the  hospital  twice  a day  and  attends  to  the  in-patients;  does 
out-door  dispensary  work  at  the  hospital  and  in  the  bazar;  gives 
four  hours  a day  to  a medical  class;  attends  to  thirteen  lepers, 
giving  them  food  and  medicine;  conducts  services  with  the  converts 
and  non-Christians  twice  a day;  and  superintends  a Sunday-school 
near  the  hospital.  Most  of  the  evangelistic  work  is  done  by  Jere- 
miah. The  wounds  are  dressed  and  medicines  dispensed  by  Samson 
and  other  assistants.  The  average  number  of  in-patients  is  ten, 
and  the  average  of  out-patients  each  day  is  about  fifty.  Last  month 
the  prescriptions  numbered  one  thousand  three  hundred  and 
seventy-one.  The  conversions  numbered  eight.  Mrs.  Jackson  has 
two  boys’  schools.  She  superintends  the  teachers  and  teaches  some 
classes  herself.  Scarcely  a day  passes  that  she  does  not  have  to 
doctor  somebody.  Children  and  adults  go  to  her  for  relief.  She 
spends  an  hour  and  a half  with  her  boys  on  Sunday  in  the  study  of 
the  Scriptures.  Her  blackboard  illustrations  make  the  truth  clear 
and  memorable.  Her  household  duties,  the  care  of  her  own  babies 
and  of  several  orphans,  and  the  temperance  work  among  the  Euro- 
peans, fill  up  the  other  hours  of  the  week.  She  is  a musical  genius, 
and  sings  the  Gospel  into  many  hearts  that  otherwise  would  be 
shut  against  it.  Miss  Judson  teaches  in  and  superintends  a school 
of  girls.  There  are  thirty-eight  enrolled.  On  Sunday  they  have  a 
special  lesson  in  the  Scriptures.  Three  days  in  the  week  she 
teaches  a woman  reading  and  arithmetic.  After  the  reading  lesson 
twelve  of  her  neighbors  meet  with  her  for  a Bible  lesson.  Several 
of  these  are  seeking  the  true  way.  Every  day  she  gives  remedies 
for  coughs,  fevers,  skin  and  other  diseases,  to  the  girls,  their 
parents  and  other  people  in  that  district.  Miss  Thompson,  in  the 
cold  season,  goes  twice  a week  to  some  of  the  villages  near  Hurda. 
She  is  accompanied  by  a Bible  woman.  The  other  four  days  she 
visits  the  women  in  Hurda,  several  of  whom  are  learning  to  read. 
On  Sundays  she  has  a school  for  boys.  The  average  attendance  is 
twenty-one.  She  has  on  that  day  also  a class  for  beggars.  Every 
day  she  has  religious  exercise  with  the  servants.  She  is  constantly 
called  on  by  the  people  among  whom  she  labors  for  simple  reme- 


226 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


dies.  Sarubia  and  Bhaktibai  also  visit  the  women  in  their  homes 
and  go  to  the  villages  near.  There  are  six  hundred  villages  waiting 
for  the  Gospel. 

I went  to  all  the  schools  and  saw  the  work.  I examined  the 
pupils  and  was  pleased  with  their  understanding  and  answers.  Dr. 
Durand  took  me  to  the  hospital.  The  building  is  clean  and  large 
enough.  The  land  was  given  by  the  head  man  of  the  town.  Under 
a tree,  Jeremiah  was  preaching  to  the  patients.  The  lepers  are  in 
another  place.  They  are  in  a pitiable  condition.  Their  toes  and 
fingers  are  dropping  off.  The  good  doctor  has  cured  several  as  bad 
as  these,  and  hopes  to  cure  many  more.  Dr.  Wharton  took  me  to 
see  the  grave  of  Miss  Robinson.  It  is  in  one  of  the  prettiest  spots 
in  India.  A slab  of  marble  gives  her  name  and  age  and  the  words, 
“ Until  the  day  dawn.”  In  the  same  lot,  Norman  Kent  Durand,  the 
child  of  Dr.  and  Emma  Durand,  is  buried.  One  evening  we  went 
out  into  the  bazar  to  hear  the  singing  and  preaching.  The  students 
of  the  Training  School  sang,  arnd  several  spoke.  Near  by  a cow- 
protector  spoke  in  the  interest  of  this  sacred  animal.  One  audience 
heard  of  Christ  and  the  great  salvation,  and  the  other  heard  about 
the  sanctity  of  the  cow  and  the  crime  of  eating  beef. 

When  I was  in  Hurda  there  was  a gathering  of  workers  from  all 
stations  to  discuss  questions  relating  to  the  work.  The  first  meet- 
ing was  in  the  nature  of  a reception.  The  house  was  full.  There 
were  several  addresses  of  welcome  and  as  many  responses.  That 
evening  the  Magistrate  and  the  Municipal  Council  called  at  the 
bungalow  and  spent  an  hour  talking  about  India  and  America. 
After  they  left  the  missionaries  came  together  for  a season  of 
prayer  and  song  and  conference.  We  had  a time  of  refreshing 
from  the  presence  of  the  Lord.  The  next  morning  we  had  a sun- 
rise baptism.  One  of  Dr.  Durand’s  patients  made  the  good  confes- 
sion and  was  baptized.  We  then  repaired  to  the  church  and  spent 
two  hours  in  prayer  and  listening  to  addresses.  Being  in  Hindi  I 
did  not  understand  what  was  said;  but  the  earnest  faces  of  the 
audience  showed  that  they  were  interested.  That  afternoon  I left 
for  Mahoba.  The  workers  and  the  Christians  came  down  to  the 
station.  As  the  train  pulled  out  the  scene  reminded  me  of  the 
breaking  up  of  one  of  our  State  Conventions.  As  the  familiar 
faces  faded  in  the  distance  I thought,  “ These  are  chosen  vessels  to 
bear  the  name  of  Christ  before  the  heathen.  It  must  be  that  the 
pleasure  of  the  Lord  shall  prosper  in  their  hands.” 

The  railway  crossed  the  Narbadda  river.  This  is  one  of  the 
sacred  streams  of  India.  The  people  say  that  the  Ganges  is  sacred 


THE  WORE  OF  THE  DISCIPLES  OF  CHRIST  IN  INDIA 


227 


on  one  bank  only,  but  the  Narbadda  is  sacred  on  both  banks.  By 
noon  the  next  day  I was  at  Mahoba.  This  is  a new  station  in  the 
Northwest  Provinces.  The  staff  consists  of  Miss  Graybiel,  Miss 
Adelaide  Frost,  Miss  Bessie  Farrar,  Miss  Elsie  Gordon,  and  a 
native  evangelist  and  his  wife.  Miss  Graybiel  is  housekeeper, 
architect  and  builder,  and  general  superintendent.  She  has  been 
able  to  get  land  at  once,  and  with  no  trouble.  In  Hurda  they  have 
been  trying  to  get  some  ground  for  years,  and  thus  far  have  failed. 
She  got  her  deed  in  a few  days.  The  rental  is  ten  cents  a year. 
The  people  asked  her  as  to  her  object.  When  she  explained  that 
the  mission  wanted  to  teach  their  women  and  children  they  said, 
“We  will  help  you.”  They  have  done  so.  She  has  found  a relia- 
ble contractor,  and  so  was  saved  much  anxiety.  The  bungalow  and 
other  buildings  are  as  good  as  any  I have  seen  in  India.  Miss  Frost 
has  charge  of  the  orphanage.  She  had  forty-four  then,  and  new 
ones  are  coming  in  every  day.  She  will  need  room  for  a hundred. 
That  district  is  suffering  from  famine.  For  three  years  the  crops 
have  failed.  The  little  ones  come  in  with  pinched  faces,  and  legs 
and  arms  like  pipe-stems.  In  a few  months  they  are  fat  and  rosy, 
and  as  full  of  play  and  mischief  as  could  be  desired.  They  call 
her  “ Mamma,”  and  gather  about  her  when  she  appears,  and  climb 
her  knees,  the  envied  kiss  to  share.  They  are  as  fond  of  love 
and  kisses  and  sweetmeats  as  children  at  home.  They  are  her  joy 
and  crown  and  reward.  Some  have  died.  Be  it  so,  but  “love 
never  fails.”  The  Sunday  I was  there  five  of  the  girls  were  bap- 
tized. Miss  Frost’s  cup  of  joy  was  full.  Miss  Gordon  and  Miss 
Farrar  have  recently  joined  the  mission.  Miss  Gordon  helps  with 
the  little  ones.  Miss  Farrar  is  studying  the  language  and  helping 
as  she  is  able.  The  bungalow  is  surrounded  by  temples,  shrines, 
idols,  sacred  trees,  old  palaces  and  suttee  mounds.  It  is  a light  in 
a dark  place.  Miss  Graybiel  is  planning  for  a school,  a widows’ 
home,  and  a hospital.  There  are  some  twenty  believers  now;  she  is 
praying  that  there  may  be  fifty  before  the  year  closes.  There  are 
seven  hundred  and  fifty-three  villages  in  Mahoba.  I was  unable  to 
visit  Deoghur  and  Madhupar.  Miss  Adam  has  been  at  work  in  this 
field  for  seventeen  years.  Her  prayer  was  that  she  might  be  sent  to 
the  darkest  spot  in  India.  For  nine  years  she  lived  in  a little  house 
on  wheels.  Those  who  know  her  say  that  she  thinks  of  herself 
last.  She  has  been  praying  for  a hundred  women  to  help  her. 
Though  over  sixty  years  of  age,  she  has  no  thought  of  retiring  or 
relaxing  her  efforts.  Miss  Alice  Spradlin  is  now  associated  with 
her  in  the  work.  Miss  Farrar  will  join  them  in  September.  After 
three  pleasant  days  in  Mahoba,  I left  for  Allahabad  and  Benares. 


XXXV. 


BENARES. 

To  the  Hindu  Benares  is  the  most  sacred  place  on  the  earth. 
What  Jerusalem  was  to  the  Hebrew,  what  Mecca  is  to  the  Mussul- 
man, that  and  more  than  that  Benares  is  to  the  Hindu.  All  who 
die  within  its  limits,  no  matter  what  their  creed  or  character,  enter 
at  once  into  everlasting  bliss.  Curiously  enough,  if  one  should  die 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Ganges,  in  the  next  transmigration  he 
will  be  born  an  ass. 

Benares  is  the  center  and  citadel  of  Hinduism.  If  any  one 
thinks  that  this  ancient  faith  has  lost  all  vitality,  a visit  to  this  city 
will  change  his  opinion.  The  crowds  of  pilgrims  that  flock  here 
from  all  parts  of  India,  and  the  earnestness  they  display  in  their 
worship,  make  it  evident  that  Hinduism  is  a living  faith.  Benares 
is  a place  of  interest  to  the  Buddhists  also.  Here  it  was  that  the 
Buddha  began  to  preach.  A naked  ascetic  met  him  and  asked  him 
why  his  face  was  so  joyous.  He  said,  “ I am  the  all-subduer,  the 
all-wise,  the  stainless,  the  highest  teacher,  the  conqueror.  I go  to 
Benares  to  dissipate  the  darkness  of  the  world.”  He  gathered 
about  him  a small  band  of  disciples,  and  said  to  them,  “ Go  ye  out 
and  travel  from  place  to  place,  for  the  welfare  of  many  people,  for 
the  joy  of  many  people,  in  pity  for  the  world,  for  the  blessed  welfare 
of  gods  and  men.”  Buddhism  was  crushed  and  driven  out  of  India 
by  the  Brahmans.  But  Buddhists  remember  that  Benares  was  the 
place  of  its  birth. 

The  first  place  I visited  was  the  monkey  temple.  This  building 
is  sacred  to  Kali.  Within  the  temple  is  an  image  of  the  goddess. 
She  is  represented  as  a woman  with  a silver  face  and  a red  tongue. 
She  was  formerly  worshiped'  by  the  blood-thirsty  Thugs  as  their 
patroness.  She  is  said  to  be  the  only  deity  in  India  who  is  wor- 
shiped with  bloody  sacrifices.  The  goat  is  the  animal  usually 
offered  in  sacrifice.  The  head  goes  to  the  priest,  the  body  is  eaten 
by  the  worshiper.  In  some  way  monkeys  took  possession  of  this 
temple.  They  come  and  go  at  pleasure.  They  climb  up  into  the 
trees  and  run  over  the  roofs  of  the  buildings  near.  The  worshipers 
acquire  merit  by  feeding  them.  After  I had  seen  the  place  and 


BUNGALOW  IN  BIN  A.  INDIA. 


HOSPITAL  IN  BILASPUR,  INDIA. 


BENARES 


229 


was  about  to  depart,  a crowd  of  men  and  women  surrounded  me 
and  began  to  ask  for  money.  One  was  the  high  priest  of  the  tem- 
ple, and  must  be  paid.  One  was  a Brahman,  and  on  that  ground 
pressed  his  claim.  Another  was  the  keeper  of  the  monkeys,  and 
wanted  money  to  buy  them  food.  Then  beggars  of  every  descrip- 
tion were  waiting  their  turn.  Some  were  lepers,  some  were 
blind,  some  were  deformed;  all  cried,  “ Great  King,  give  me  some- 
thing.” They  had  the  beastly  habit,  which  I have  seen  in  all  parts 
of  the  country,  of  uncovering  their  stomachs  that  I might  see  that 
there  was  nothing  in  them. 

Leaving  this  place  I went  to  the  Golden  Temple.  The  roof  is 
plated  with  gold,  but  the  interior  is  sloppy  and  nasty  enough.  Not 
being  a ‘‘Hindu  gentleman  ” I was  not  able  to  enter  and  go  about 
where  I pleased.  All  that  I could  do  was  to  stand  at  the  entrance 
and  look  in.  The  sight  was  one  never  to  be  forgotten.  The  place  was 
thronged.  The  worshipers  rang  the  bells,  made  their  offerings,  and 
repeated  their  prayers.  As  they  were  leaving  a priest  stamped  their 
forehead  with  red  paint,  and  they  went  on  their  way  rejoicing. 
Near  by  is  the  “well  of  knowledge.”  Water  from  this  well  gives 
the  knowledge  of  salvation.  The  people  are  constantly  casting  in 
fruits  and  flowers.  To  keep  the  water  pure  the  authorities  have 
covered  over  the  mouth  of  the  well.  A Brahman  sits  by  and  ladles 
out  some  of  the  sacred  fluid  to  those  who  pay  for  it.  Another  well 
of  still  greater  sanctity  is  the  “ well  of  the  ear-ring.”  This  well  was 
dug  by  Vishnu.  His  sweat  filled  it.  Shiva  looked  into  it,  and  so 
trembled  with  rapture  that  from  one  of  his  ears  a jeweled  ring  fell, 
thus  making  the  well  doubly  sacred.  Pilgrims  come  here.  A 
Brahman  tells  them  of  the  cleansing  efficacy  of  this  water.  The 
price  demanded  is  reasonable.  They  hand  him  their  hard-earned 
coins  and  then  descend  the  steps  and  plunge  into  the  pool  and  all  is 
over.  Every  stain  of  sin  is  removed.  “The  liar,  the  thief,  the 
murderer  and  the  adulterer,  may  here  wash  and  be  clean.” 

Other  temples  are  not  far  distant.  I visited  one  sacred  to  the 
cow.  A dozen  cows  were  going  about  among  their  devotees. 
Pious  Hindus  feed  them  and  kiss  their  tails  and  pray  to  them.  I 
visited  the  temple  of  Ganesh.  This  god  has  the  head  of  an  ele- 
phant. The  explanation  is  this:  One  night  his  father  returned 

home  drunk.  Ganesh  did  not  recognize  his  voice  and  refused  to  let 
him  in.  His  father  became  enraged  and  struck  him  and  knocked 
his  head  off.  His  mother  was  greatly  distressed.  The  father  took 
an  elephant’s  head  and  put  it  on  the  boy  and  comforted  his  mother 
with  the  assurance  that  he  would  be  the  most  popular  god  in  India. 


230 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Benares  has  over  two  thousand  temples  and  two  hundred  and 
seventy  mosques.  It  is  wholly  given  to  idolatry,  and  such  idolatry  as 
Paul  never  saw  in  Athens  or  Corinth.  The  emblems  of  Shiva  are 
everywhere.  There  are  more  of  these  in  the  city  than  there  are 
human  beings.  Benares  is  a veritable  paradise  for  the  Brahmans. 
They  are  omnipresent,  ever  ready  to  guide  the  pilgrim  in  his  devo- 
tions and  to  relieve  him  of  his  money.  Naked  fakirs  smeared  from 
head  to  heel  with  ashes  are  seen  on  all  sides.  The  dirtier  they  are 
the  greater  their  holiness.  Sacred  bulls  swarm  in  the  streets. 
They  are  fed  by  the  people,  and  go  wherever  they  choose. 

Next  morning  Dr.  Lazarus  sent  a guide  with  me  to  see  the  bath- 
ing in  the  Ganges.  He  took  a boat  and  rowed  up  the  stream  to  the 
edge  of  the  city,  and  then  floated  down  with  the  current.  Benares 
is  built  on  a high  bluff,  and  stretches  four  miles  along  the  Ganges. 
Palaces  have  been  built  by  wealthy  men  for  themselves  and  for  their 
relatives.  Stone  steps  lead  down  from  these  palaces,  and  from  the 
streets  to  the  water.  At  sunrise  tens  of  thousands  come  here  to 
bathe  and  to  worship.  Men  and  women  of  all  ages  plunge  in  and 
wash  themselves  thoroughly.  Then  the  men  wash  their  loincloth, 
make  their  offerings,  pray,  and  go  home.  “A  pathetic  feature  of 
this  jostling,  bellowing  crowd,  is  the  large  number  of  tottering,  aged 
women,  with  scanty  white  locks,  coming  out  of  the  cold  water, 
crawling  feebly  up  the  steep  steps  with  their  wet  clothes  clinging  to 
their  poor,  shivering  lean  legs,  shrinking  into  some  recess  lest  the 
shadow  of  a passing  Englishman  or  Mussulman  should  fall  on  them, 
a calamity  that  spoils  the  effect  of  the  sacred  cleansing,  and  renders 
it  needful  to  creep  back  once  more  to  the  chill  water.”  At  one 
point  is  the  burning  ghat.  As  soon  as  a Hindu  dies  his  body  is  car- 
ried to  this  place.  The  bearers  shout  as  they  run,  “The  name  of 
Rama  is  true.”  When  they  come  to  the  ghat  they  lay  the  bier  in 
the  water.  In  due  time  a platform  of  dry  wood  is  prepared.  The 
body  is  laid  thereon  and  covered  with  faggots.  A torch  is  applied 
and  the  whole  reduced  to  ashes,  and  the  ashes  swept  into  the 
stream.  If  the  men  in  charge  are  in  a hurry,  they  do  not  wait  for 
the  fire  to  do  its  perfect  work.  I saw  one  body  not  more  than  half 
consumed.  A crow  was  feasting  on  it  as  it  floated  down  the  river. 
To  die  in  Benares,  and  to  be  burned  at  this  famous  ghat,  is  consid- 
ered the  highest  felicity  possible.  We  left  the  boat  and  visited  the 
mosque  of  Aurungzeb,  the  tallest  and  most  imposing  building  in  the 
city.  I ascended  one  of  the  minarets  and  saw  the  whole  city  and  its 
numerous  temples  and  shrines  and  worshipers,  and  thought  of  the 
saying,  “The  idols  he  shall  utterly  abolish.” 


BENARES 


231 


I visited  some  of  the  missions  and  tried  to  learn  what  I could 
about  the  work.  The  English  Baptists  work  among  the  girls  and 
women.  The  Church  Missionary  Society  has  an  orphanage,  a 
school  for  girls,  and  a large  school  for  boys.  The  London  Society 
has  a boarding  school  with  five  hundred  boys,  several  schools  for 
girls,  a high  school  and  a church.  The  Wesleyans  have  a preaching 
place,  a school  for  girls,  and  keep  several  catechists  at  work.  The 
Zenana  Bible  and  Medical  Mission  has  two  centers  of  work  and 
several  dispensaries.  The  work  is  hard  and  the  progress  slow.  Mr. 
Parker,  of  the  London  Society,  said  to  me  that  it  was  not  like  hit- 
ting a stone  wall,  but  like  beating  against  a wall  of  rubber.  Never- 
theless, good  work  is  being  done,  and  the  ultimate  and  universal 
triumph  of  the  Gospel  is  assured. 


XXXVI. 


CAWNPORE  AND  LUCKNOW. 

From  Benares  I went  to  Cawnpore.  This  city  became  famous  in 
1857.  Here  the  crowning  tragedy  of  the  Sepoy  Mutiny  was  enacted. 
Several  causes  led  up  to  the  mutiny.  The  people  were  dissatisfied 
with  the  rule  of  the  East  India  Company.  Some  hoped  to  restore 
the  Mogul  rule.  Some  aspired  to  office  and  power.  Some 
thought  they  would  be  able  to  enrich  themselves  by  plunder  in  a 
time  of  anarchy.  Evil  reports  were  circulated  and  readily  believed 
by  the  soldiers.  It  was  said  that  the  cartridges  were  greased  with  the 
fat  of  beef  and  pork,  and  that  the  soldiers  would  have  to  bite  off 
the  ends  before  loading.  The  Hindus  would  be  defiled  by  eating 
beef,  and  the  Mussulmans  by  eating  pork.  Sepoys  were  made  to 
believe  that  the  bones  of  cows  and  pigs  had  been  ground  to  powder 
and  mixed  with  their  flour  and  butter,  in  order  to  destroy  their 
caste  and  religion,  and  to  compel  them  to  become  Christians. 

The  massacre  that  took  place  in  Cawnpore  was  inspired  and 
directed  by  Nana  Sahib.  This  man  was  the  adopted  son  and  heir  of 
the  old  king.  The  Government  denied  him  the  pension  which  he 
claimed  was  his  due.  He  saw  a chance  for  revenge  and  embraced 
it.  At  first  he  pretended  to  be  the  friend  of  the  English.  He 
assured  them  of  his  support  in  case  of  an  attack.  When  the 
Sepoys  rose  and  butchered  their  officers  and  committed  their  usual 
atrocities,  he  threw  off  all  disguise.  General  Wheeler  had  a small 
force  of  soldiers  in  Cawnpore.  He  pitched  his  camp  in  an  open 
field  and  threw  up  some  entrenchments.  All  the  English  residents 
flocked  to  him  for  protection.  There  were  nearly  a thousand  per- 
sons in  the  company.  Nana  pci\suaded  the  Sepoys  to  open  fire  on 
the  English.  For  three  weeks  the  attack  and  defense  continued. 
The  hot  season  was  coming  on:  supplies  of  food  and  ammunition 
were  running  low;  the  besiegers  numbered  eleven  thousand.  All 
hope  was  given  up.  Nana  offered  to  send  them  safely  by  boat  to 
Allahabad,  if  they  would  lay  down  their  arms  and  surrender  their 
treasure.  They  accepted  the  terms  and  marched  down  to  the 
Ganges  to  go  on  board.  They  suspected  no  treachery  or  bad  faith. 

When  the  boats  were  full,  guns  were  run  out  of  ambuscade  and 

232 


^ivvr/r;-a.sr. 


Jew  Hawk  and  Family. 
PORTLAND.  ORE. 


Miss  Ida  Kinsey.  Ben  Mitchell. 

Miss  Mattie  Burgess.  Mrs.  Ben  Mitchell. 

BINA,  INDIA. 


CA  WNPOBE  AND  LUCKNOW 


233 


firing  began.  Escape  was  impossible.  Some  were  killed;  some 
were  drowned;  the  others  were  brought  back  to  the  shore.  The 
men  were  dispatched  at  once.  The  women  and  children  were  pre- 
served for  a worse  fate.  They  were  sent  for  confinement  to  a 
house  in  the  native  city.  Two  strong  swimmers  escaped.  Nana 
heard  of  Havelock’s  approach  and  sent  his  butchers  to  kill  the 
women  and  children.  There  were  two  hundred  in  all.  The 
butchers  used  hatchets  and  swords.  They  cut  off  arms  and  legs 
and  heads.  The  next  morning  they  returned  and  found  a few  still 
living.  They  threw  these  with  the  dead  into  a well  near  by.  They 
had  hardly  finished  their  devilish  work  when  Havelock’s  men 
appeared  on  the  scene.  They  were  horrified  by  what  they  saw. 
Kneeling  there  on  that  bloody  floor,  with  arms  and  legs  and  heads 
all  about  them,  with  their  swords  in  their  mouths,  they  swore  to  be 
revenged. 

The  guide  pointed  out  the  well  from  which  the  besieged  got 
water.  The  Sepoy  guns  were  trained  on  this  well,  and  water  was 
drawn  at  the  peril  of  life.  He  took  us  to  the  well  where  those  who 
were  killed  or  died  during  the  siege  were  buried.  This  well  is  now 
filled  and  has  a monument  over  it.  The  inscription  runs:  “Our 
bones  are  scattered  at  ye  graves’  mouth,  as  when  one  cutteth  and 
cleaveth  wood  upon  ye  earth;  but  our  eyes  are  unto  thee,  O God 
the  Lord.”  A memorial  church  has  been  built.  It  cost  $100,000. 
On  its  walls  are  the  names  of  all  who  fell.  We  went  to  the  other 
well.  This  too  has  been  filled,  and  a monument  erected  over  it. 
The  soldier  on  guard  pointed  out  the  tree  on  which  several  hundred 
natives  were  hung.  He  told  us  that  many  had  been  shot  from 
cannon.  The  vow  of  Havelock’s  men  was  kept.  Those  who  were 
hung  were  compelled  to  drink  the  blood  of  their  victims,  and  then 
were  led  out  to  the  fatal  tree. 

I called  at  one  of  the  mission  bungalows.  Mr.  Conklin,  the 
missionary  in  charge,  told  me  that  several  societies  are  at  work 
in  Cawnpore.  There  is  quite  a colony  of  Europeans.  Cawnpore 
is  becoming  a manufacturing  and  commercial  center.  The  native 
Christians  can  earn  good  salaries,  and  so  are  able  to  contribute  to 
the  support  of  the  Gospel.  He  told  me  of  a Brahman  boatman  who 
found  a Bible  in  the  Ganges.  He  did  not  know  what  it  was,  but 
he  felt  that  it  was  a good  book,  and  he  read  it  to  his  associates. 
He  is  now  a Christian  and  a man  of  much  influence.  He  is  a boat- 
man still,  but  he  preaches  as  he  is  able. 

At  Cawnpore  I took  the  train  for  Lucknow.  Here  I saw  the 
palace  of  the  last  king  of  Oudh.  It  is  not  what  it  was  once,  but  it 


234 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


is  worth  seeing.  This  king  had  two  hundred  wives.  We  went 
through  their  apartments.  They  are  empty  and  silent  now.  We 
saw  mosques  and  temples  and  tombs  without  number.  President 
Mansell  took  me  to  see  the  Residency.  It  was  here  that  the 
English  community  were  shut  up  during  the  mutiny.  Here  for 
more  than  four  months  they  made  as  brave  a fight  as  history 
records.  Six  hundred  men  withstood  sixty  thousand,  armed  with 
three  hundred  cannon.  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  was  killed  soon  after 
the  siege  began.  His  last  words  were,  “ Whatever  you  do,  never 
surrender.”  His  words  were  heeded.  The  Residency  is  a ruin.  It 
is  as  it  was  when  the  besieged  were  rescued.  The  places  where 
great  deeds  were  done  and  where  brave  men  fell  are  marked. 
Among  these  were  some  native  soldiers  who  remained  loyal  to  the 
government.  Havelock  and  Outram  cut  their  way  through  the 
besiegers  and  relieved  the  garrison.  The  pent  up  feelings  of  the 
garrison  burst  forth  in  deafening  cheers,  so  it  is  said,  and  even  the 
wounded  soldiers  in  the  hospital  crawled  out  to  join  in  the  chorus 
of  welcome.  The  bearded  warriors,  who  had  just  fought  their  way 
through  the  city,  shook  the  hands  of  the  soldiers  of  the  garrison 
with  frantic  joy,  and  took  the  infants  out  of  their  mother’s  arms 
and  kissed  them  with  the  tears  running  down  their  cheeks  and 
tossed  them  up  into  the  air  in  their  exultation  and  delight,  whilst 
they  thanked  God  that  they  had  come  in  time  to  save  the  survivors 
from  the  fate  that  had  befallen  the  victims  at  Cawnpore.  In  the 
graveyard  near  the  Residency  is  the  tomb  of  Sir  Henry  Lawrence, 
the  man  who  tried  to  do  his  duty.  The  garrison  was  relieved,  but 
that  was  all.  Havelock’s  force  was  not  strong  enough  to  rescue  the 
besieged.  Later  Sir  Colin  Campbell  came  with  an  anny  of  sufficient 
strength  to  drive  back  the  Sepoys  and  carry  away  the  garrison. 
Havelock  died  and  was  buried  at  Alumbagh.  There  was  something 
of  Cromwell  in  him.  His  saints  could  always  be  depended  upon  in 
any  emergency.  These  were  thrilling  times.  The  heart  beats 
faster  while  reading  Whittier’s  stirring  lines.  When  the  garrison 
had  given  up  all  hope  a Scottish  maiden  cried  out,  “ Dinna  ye  hear 
it  ? Dinna  ye  hear  it  ? The  pipes  of  Havelock  sound  ! ” 

“Oh,  they  listened,  dumb  and  breathless, 

And  they  caught  the  sound  at  last, 

Faint  and  far  beyond  the  Goomtee 
Rose  and  fell  the  piper’s  blast. 

Then  a burst  of  wild  thanksgiving 
Mingled  woman’s  voice  and  man’s, 

God  be  praised  ! the  march  of  Havelock, 

And  the  piping  of  the  clans. 


CAWNPOBE  AND  LUCKNOW 


235 


“Louder,  nearer,  fierce  as  vengeance, 

Sharp  and  shrill  as  swords  at  strife, 

Came  the  wild  McGregor’s  clan-call 
Stinging  all  the  air  to  life. 

But  when  the  far-off  dust  clouds 
To  plaided  legions  grew, 

Full  tenderly  and  blithesome 
The  pipes  of  rescue  blew. 

“ Round  the  silver  domes  of  Lucknow, 

Moslem  mosque  and  Pagan  shrine, 

Rose  the  air  to  Britons  dearest, 

The  air  of  Auld  Lang  Syne. 

O’er  the  cruel  roll  of  war-drums 
Rose  that  sweet  and  home-like  strain, 

And  the  Tartan  clove  the  Turban 
As  the  Goomtee  cleaves  the  plain.  ’ ’ 

I visited  the  Mission  Press  and  found  one  hundred  and  fifty  men 
at  work.  This  Press  issues  thirty-five  million  pages  a year.  It  is 
self-supporting,  and  more.  Miss  Thoburn  has  one  hundred  and 
forty-three  girls  in  her  boarding  school.  In  other  schools  three 
hundred  girls  are  being  taught.  The  English  and  Hindustani 
churches  are  self-supporting.  The  boys’  boarding  school  has  fifty 
enrolled.  Reid  Christian  College  has  twenty  in  the  regular  courses. 
I visited  the  Widows’  Home.  A Hindu  may  marry  a wife  to-day 
and  divorce  her  to-morrow.  There  are  widows  in  India  who  have 
never  been  wives.  These  are  taught  and  trained  to  serve  as  nurses 
or  teachers.  Some  become  wives  of  the  native  evangelists.  One 
came  to  the  deaconess  in  charge  and  said,  “ You  gave  my  neighbor 
a good  wife;  can  you  give  me  one  as  good  ? ” She  said:  “Yes;  do 
you  want  to  see  her?”  “That  is  not  necessary.  Name  the  day 
when  I can  come  and  be  married.”  The  Church  of  England  is  at 
work  in  Lucknow  with  a strong  staff.  The  next  point  at  which  we 
are  to  call  is  Delhi,  once  the  capital  of  the  Mogul  Emperors. 


XXXVII. 


DELHI  AND  AGRA. 

Delhi  is  an  old  city.  Tradition  states  that  parts  of  it  date  back 
as  far  as  the  Exodus.  For  miles  and  miles  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
present  city  there  are  traces  of  fortresses,  palaces,  tombs,  temples 
and  mosques.  Each  king  wanted  to  build  a capital  that  would 
eclipse  that  of  his  predecessor.  The  new  city  was  built  beside  the 
old.  The  abandoned  city  in  course  of  time  fell  into  ruins.  The 
ruins  about  Delhi  cover  forty-five  square  miles. 

The  first  place  to  which  the  stranger  is  taken  is  the  Fort.  The 
inclosing  wall  is  of  red  sandstone,  and  is  a mile  and  a quarter  in 
length.  The  government  has  taken  possession  of  this  property  and 
keeps  it  in  repair.  Within  the  Fort  is  the  Private  Hall  of  Audi- 
ence. This  is  of  [white  marble.  Once  it  was  inlaid  with  all  manner 
of  precious  stones.  Most  of  these  have  been  carried  away  by  van- 
dals. The  place  is  shown  where  the  Peacock  Throne  stood.  This 
throne  was  so  called  because  its  back  was  formed  by  jeweled  repre- 
sentations of  peacocks’  tails.  It  was  of  solid  gold  inlaid  with  gems, 
and  cost  $30,000,000.  When  Nadir  Shah,  the  Persian,  invaded  India, 
he  took  away  the  Peacock  Throne.  The  Mahrattas  took  the  silver 
filigree  ceiling  as  part  of  their  spoil.  On  the  wall  may  be  read  a 
Persian  inscription,  “ If  on  earth  there  is  a heaven  of  bliss,  it  is  this, 
it  is  this.”  We  saw  the  Public  Hall  of  Audience,  the  baths  of  the 
Emperor,  his  wives,  and  children,  and  the  mosque  in  which  the 
imperial  family  worshiped.  From  the  Fort  we  went  to  the  Great 
Mosque.  This  building  is  situated  on  a rocky  eminence.  There 
are  magnificent  flights  of  steps  leading  up  to  three  lofty  and  hand- 
some gateways.  The  court  is  450  feet  square  and  is  paved  with  red 
stone.  In  the  center  is  a reservoir  for  water.  Being  built  on  so 
high  a rock  the  domes  and  minarets  lift  themselves  high  into  the 
air  and  are  seen  from  afar.  I was  shown  a hair  from  the  beard  of 
Mohammed,  one  of  his  slippers,  and  a print  of  his  foot  in  marble. 
These  things  are  guarded  with  the  most  jealous  care.  The  cus- 
todians appear  to  think  that  they  are  genuine  and  of  the  greatest 
value. 

Eleven  miles  from  New  Delhi  is  the  Kutub-Minar.  This  tower  is 

236 


WATER  CARRIER.  JAIN  PRIEST. 


DELHI  AND  AGRA 


237 


238  feet  high,  and  dates  back  to  the  thirteenth  century.  It  was 
built  on  the  ruins  of  a Hindu  fortress  by  the  first  resident  Moham- 
medan king  of  India.  Whole  chapters  of  the  Koran  are  cut  in 
relief  upon  it.  Though  the  Kutub  was  built  six  hundred  years  ago, 
the  carving  and  masonry  are  as  fresh  and  as  perfect  as  if  they  had 
been  finished  but  yesterday.  I went  up  to  the  top  and  looked  out 
in  all  directions.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  the  landscape  was 
filled  with  ruins.  Another  tower  of  the  same  pattern  was  begun 
but  not  completed.  The  foundations  of  a great  mosque  were  laid 
and  the  walls  partly  erected  when  the  work  ceased.  The  builder 
died  or  changed  his  plan.  On  the  way  back  we  stopped  to  examine 
the  tomb  of  Humayun,  the  father  of  Akbar  the  Great.  The  mauso- 
leum is  of  red  sandstone  inlaid  with  marble.  It  was  here  that  the 
two  sons  of  the  last  Mogul  Emperor  took  refuge  in  the  Mutiny  and 
were  shot.  We  glanced  at  Indrapat.  This  fortress  is  said  to  be  the 
oldest  part  of  Delhi.  It  reaches  back  to  the  time  of  Joshua.  We 
saw  Ferozabad  in  the  twilight.  Within  it  is  one  of  the  columns  of 
Asoka,  on  which  his  edicts  are  inscribed. 

On  Sunday  morning  I went  to  the  Episcopal  Church.  It  was  a 
military  parade  service.  The  officers  of  the  garrison  wore  their 
swords,  the  soldiers  carried  their  guns.  Before  the  Mutiny  they 
left  their  arms  outside;  since  the  Mutiny  they  take  them  in.  The 
sermon  was  ten  minutes  by  the  clock,  but  owing  to  the  sing-song 
tone  of  the  preacher  it  seemed  an  hour.  Delhi  is  the  home  of 
the  Cambridge  Brotherhood.  The  members  are  celibates  and  live 
as  one  family.  They  carry  on  evangelistic  work  and  teach  in  the 
college  for  boys  in  Delhi  and  do  work  in  the  outlying  district.  In 
the  evening  I went  to  the  English  Baptist  Church.  The  missionary 
in  charge  was  out  in  the  villages.  One  of  his  associates  preached. 
The  Baptists  carry  on  evangelistic  and  educational  work  here. 

Delhi  was  the  center  of  the  Mutiny.  Here  the  old  Emperor 
lived  in  retirement  as  a pensioner  of  the  government.  His  parti- 
sans brought  him  out  and  placed  him  on  the  throne.  Soldiers  gath- 
ered from  all  parts  of  Hindustan.  Thirty  thousand  disciplined 
troops  held  the  city.  The  English  did  not  have  as  many  as  ten 
thousand.  It  was  felt  that  Delhi  must  be  taken  at  any  cost.  The 
post  of  danger  and  of  honor  was  assigned  to  General  Nicholson. 
He  was  to  blow  up  the  Cashmere  gate  and  storm  the  city  on  its 
most  deadly  side.  Soldiers  carried  bags  of  gunpowder  through 
shot  and  shell  and  placed  them  in  position.  All  were  either  killed 
instantly  or  fatally  wounded.  The  train  was  fired  and  the  gate 
blown  into  atoms.  The  assailants  rushed  in  and  charged  the  Sepoys 


238 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


with  the  bayonet.  More  than  a third  of  the  British  force  fell. 
General  Nicholson  was  shot  in  the  hour  of  victory.  In  a little 
while  the  British  flag  waved  over  the  citadel.  The  neck  of  the 
Mutiny  was  broken,  and  India  was  saved  to  England.  The  valor 
displayed  in  and  around  Delhi  has  never  been  excelled. 

I left  Delhi  for  Agra.  This  city  was  built  by  Akbar.  The  walls 
inclose  eleven  square  miles.  Dr.  Colin  Valentine,  a Scottish 
worthy,  took  me  to  his  own  home.  After  breakfast  he  took  me  to 
Sikandra.  Here  the  great  Akbar  is  buried.  Three  thousand  men 
spent  twenty  years  building  his  tomb.  The  lower  stories  are 
of  red  sandstone;  the  upper  one  is  of  white  marble.  He  is  buried 
in  a dingy  vault.  There  is  a cenotaph  in  the  upper  story.  Around 
it  are  the  ninety-nine  names  of  God.  At  the  head  is  a pillar  in 
which  the  Ivohinoor  was  set.  The  jewel  has  passed  into  other 
hands;  the  glory  of  the  Mogul  Empire  has  departed.  Across  the 
road  is  an  orphanage  for  boys  and  girls  under  the  control  of  the 
Church  Missionary  Society.  The  government  gave  this  Society  the 
tomb  of  one  of  Akbar’s  wives  for  this  purpose.  This  is  the  best 
use  I have  seen  made  of  any  tomb  in  India.  The  orphans  are 
taught  to  read  and  write  and  to  work  with  their  own  hands.  Among 
other  things  they  are  taught  printing  and  binding,  and  do  very  cred- 
itable work.  After  our  return  we  went  to  the  Fort  and  saw  the  Pearl 
Mosque,  the  Palace,  the  Public  and  Private  Halls  of  Audience,  the 
Tilt-yard,  the  Palace  of  Glass,  the  rooms  occupied  by  the  numerous 
wives  of  the  Emperor.  Bayard  Taylor  says  of  the  Pearl  Mosque: 
“To  my  eye  it  is  absolutely  perfect.  It  is  a sanctuary  so  pure  and 
stainless,  revealing  so  exalted  a spirit  of  worship,  that  I felt  hum- 
bled, as  a Christian,  to  think  that  our  noble  religion  has  never 
inspired  its  architects  to  surpass  this  temple  to  God  and  Moham- 
med.” The  Palace  of  Glass  is  a bath,  the  walls  of  which  are 
adorned  with  thousands  of  small  mirrors.  Akbar’s  judgment-seat  is 
as  he  left  it.  It  is  a block  of  black  marble.  The  guide  points  out 
a crack  in  it,  and  gravely  tells  you  that  blood  came  from  this  crack 
more  than  once.  Another  seat  of  white  marble  was  used  by  the 
King’s  fool. 

I went  twice  to  see  the  Taj  Mahal.  This  is  the  most  renowned 
building  in  the  world.  Twenty  thousand  men  spent  seventeen  years 
in  its  construction.  The  ends  of  the  earth  were  searched  for  pre- 
cious stones  to  garnish  it.  The  Taj  is  the  tomb  built  by  Shah  Jehan 
for  his  favorite  wife,  the  lovely  Noor  Jehan,  the  Light  of  the 
World.  It  rests  on  a plinth  eighteen  feet  high  and  three  hundred 
and  thirteen  feet  square.  The  tomb  proper  is  one  hundred  and 


DELHI  AND  AGRA 


239 


«ighty-six  feet  from  side  to  side.  It  is  surmounted  with  a central 
dome  eighty  feet  high  and  fifty  feet  in  diameter.  At  each  corner 
there  is  a smaller  dome.  The  whole  of  the  Koran  is  inscribed  on 
the  walls.  There  are  four  minarets  one  hundred  and  thirty-seven 
feet  high.  The  entire  building  is  of  white  marble.  On  either  side 
there  is  a mosque  of  red  sandstone.  The  Taj  is  approached  through 
a lofty  gateway.  The  avenue  is  lined  with  trees  and  flowers.  In 
the  midst  of  it  a stream  of  clear  water  runs.  The  Taj  baffles 
description.  One  can  give  its  materials  and  dimensions  and  decora- 
tions, and  leave  the  reader  little  the  wiser.  He  can  say  that  the 
walls  are  covered  with  tulips,  lilies  and  oleanders;  that  the  tombs 
of  the  Emperor  and  his  beautiful  wife  are  inlaid  with  flowers  made 
of  the  costliest  gems;  but  no  one  could  get  from  such  words  an 
adequate  conception  of  the  graceful  proportions  and  exquisite 
beauty  of  this  building.  We  may  call  it  a dream  in  marble,  we  may 
say  that  it  is  the  perfection  of  beauty;  we  may  get  photographs  of 
it.  These  help  a little,  but  not  much.  It  would  be  as  easy  to  gild 
refined  gold  as  to  describe  the  Taj.  Heber  said,  “ The  Pathans 
design  like  Titans,  and  finish  like  jewelers.”  They  do.  It  is  sig- 
nificant that  the  finest  tomb  ever  erected  was  erected  to  a woman, 
and  that  in  a country  where  women  are  lightly  esteemed. 

The  thought  of  these  great  buildings  and  their  builders  fills  one 
with  sadness.  The  Mogul  Emperors  were  little  better  than  sav- 
ages. When  one  ascended  the  throne  he  blinded  or  strangled  all 
his  near  relatives.  Brother  rose  up  against  brother,  and  son  against 
father.  Shah  Jehan  built  the  Taj,  but  that  did  not  keep  him  from 
seeking  solace  in  the  company  of  dancing  girls.  He  spent  the  last 
seven  years  of  his  life  as  a prisoner.  The  Taj  was  built  by  men  who 
were  not  paid  for  their  services.  The  Emperors  built  tombs  and 
palaces  and  mosques  to  perpetuate  their  own  names,  but  no  pro- 
vision was  made  for  the  common  people.  They  were  not  taught; 
roads  and  bridges  were  not  made  so  that  they  could  take  their 
products  to  market.  “ For  a less  sum  of  money  than  they  spent  on 
their  palaces,  two  tombs  and  a throne,  the  British  government  has 
made  4,500  miles  of  irrigating  canals,  watering  3,000,000  acres,  and 
giving  employment  and  food  to  fifteen  or  twenty  millions  of 
population.” 

Dr.  Valentine  is  the  head  of  a medical  missionary  school  in  Agra. 
He  has  students  from  all  parts  of  India.  Every  evening  they  gather 
in  his  home  and  listen  to  his  expositions  of  the  Scriptures.  In  Jey- 
pore  he  healed  one  of  the  wives  of  the  Maharajah.  This  gave  him 
a standing  at  court  and  in  the  community  that  he  could  not  have 


240 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


had  otherwise.  He  is  a man  of  God,  and  he  is  doing  the  work  of 
God.  I called  to  see  St.  John’s  College.  This  is  a thoroughly 
Christian  School.  Nothing  is  left  undone  to  bring  the  students  to 
Christ.  The  classes  are  full.  New  buildings  are  needed.  The 
Agra  College  has  about  the  same  number  of  students.  The  Princi- 
pal is  a Scotchman  and  a Christian.  But  there  is  no  religious 
instruction  in  the  classes.  I called  to  see  all  the  missionaries  and 
heard  front  them  about  their  work.  I left  Agra  for  Bombay  by 
way  of  Jeypore  and  Baroda. 


MISSIONARIES  IN  BILASPUR.  INDIA. 


XXXVIII. 

BOMBAY,  POONA  AND  NELLORE. 

Bombay  is  the  chief  commercial  city  of  India.  Its  harbor  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  population  numbers  805,000.  The 
great  buildings  and  crowded  streets  remind  one  of  an  American 
seaport.  Mr.  Wharton  came  down  from  Hurda  to  meet  me  and  to 
go  with  me  through  Southern  India.  With  such  a genial  and 
accomplished  guide  my  visit  to  this  part  of  the  country  could  not 
fail  to  be  both  pleasant  and  profitable. 

We  went  first  to  the  office  of  the  Bombay  Guardian.  Mr. 
Dyer,  the  editor,  belongs  to  the  Friends,  and  therefore  is  pledged  to 
seek  peace  and  to  pursue  it.  But  let  no  evil  think  it  can  flourish  in 
Bombay  on  that  account.  He  will  smite  it  with  both  hands  earn- 
estly, and  will  consent  to  no  cessation  of  hostilities  till  the  evil 
ceases  to  exist.  He  is  a pronounced  and  persistent  assailant  of  vice 
and  crime.  For  his  outspoken  words  against  the  opium  traffic  and 
other  iniquities  he  was  sent  to  jail.  But  even  that  experience  did 
not  subdue  his  spirit  or  cause  him  to  abate  his  zeal  for  the  Lord  of 
hosts.  Mr.  Dyer  is  a moral  force  in  India.  His  influence  for  good 
is  felt  throughout  the  Empire.  Vice  knows  and  fears  and  hates 
him. 

Eleven  missionary  societies  are  at  work  in  Bombay.  The  whole 
number  of  missionaries  is  forty-four.  The  work  of  the  American 
Board  is  said  to  be  the  most  prosperous  in  the  Presidency.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Hume,  the  missionaries  in  charge,  received  us  most  kindly 
and  showed  us  the  premises  and  the  work.  They  began  a school  in 
1876  with  one  pupil.  They  have  now  165.  The  dormitories  and 
class-rooms  have  been  outgrown.  Recitations  are  held  in  all  sorts 
of  places.  The  pupils  are  all  Christians  or  are  from  Christian 
homes.  Because  they  are,  they  meet  and  recite  in  the  same 
classes.  This  is  the  only  place  in  India  where  I saw  this  done. 
We  were  there  on  Washington’s  birthday.  Mrs.  Hume  had  an 
American  flag  and  gave  a short  talk  on  Washington.  She  gave  the 
school  a holiday  in  honor  of  the  occasion.  The  address  and  the 
holiday  were  loudly  cheered.  Mr.  Hume  told  us  that  the  church  is 

16  241 


242 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


entirely  self-supporting.  The  members  collect  and  disburse  the 
funds  and  manage  their  own  affairs. 

The  Parsees  are  the  most  influential  class  in  Bombay,  though 
they  number  only  70,000.  When  the  Mohammedans  invaded 
Persia,  twelve  hundred  years  ago,  some  of  the  Persians  migrated  to 
India.  The  Parsees  are  their  descendants.  One  of  the  priests 
told  us  of  their  worship.  They  follow  the  teachings  of  Zoroaster. 
He  taught  the  necessity  of  good  thoughts,  good  words,  and  good 
deeds.  In  their  temples  the  sacred  fire  never  goes  out.  Sandal 
wood  and  incense  are  kept  burning  all  the  time.  But  they  do  not 
worship  the  fire  or  the  sun.  These  are  symbols  of  God  and  are 
helps  to  the  mind.  We  visited  the  Towers  of  Silence.  These  are 
the  places  where  the  Parsees  expose  their  dead.  The  dead  body  is 
carried  up  into  the  Tower  and  left  there  perfectly  naked.  The 
mourners  remain  below  in  the  house  of  prayer.  As  soon  as  the 
bearers  are  gone  the  vultures  swoop  down  on  the  corpse.  In  less 
than  ten  minutes  the  bones  are  stripped  bare.  After  some  time  the 
skeleton  is  thrown  down  a well  in  the  center  of  the  Tower.  Here 
rich  and  poor  meet  together.  Pipes  lead  from  the  central  well  to 
four  other  wells.  When  the  bones  become  dust  the  rains  carry  the 
dust  into  these  reservoirs.  The  Parsees  are  rich,  intelligent,  and 
public-spirited.  They  build  schools  and  hospitals  and  infirmaries 
and  endow  them.  Their  women  dress  with  admirable  taste.  In 
this  respect  they  excel  all  the  peoples  I have  seen  on  my  travels. 

In  the  hospital  for  the  deaf  we  saw  Gulali,  one  of  the  students 
from  Hurda.  Mr.  Wharton  says  that  he  is  not  only  the  brightest 
mind  in  the  class,  but  one  of  the  brightest  men  he  has  ever  met. 
He  is  totally  blind  and  recently  has  been  growing  deaf.  One  ear 
has  gone  and  the  other  is  going.  The  doctors  think  they  can  arrest 
the  disease.  His  face  shone  when  we  spoke  to  him.  He  said  that 
as  Paul’s  imprisonment  led  to  the  Gospel  being  preached  in  the 
imperial  palace,  so  his  confinement  in  the  hospital  was  being  used 
to  carry  the  Gospel  to  those  who  had  never  heard  it.  The  physi- 
cians and  the  patients  gathered  about  him  as  he  read  the  Bible  for 
the  blind.  He  had  read  to  them  most  of  the  Gospel  by  John. 

After  seeing  Bombay  we  went  to  Poona  and  spent  Sunday 
there.  T.  H.  Marshall  and  family,  formerly  of  Hurda,  live  there 
and  took  us  to  their  home.  Poona  is  an  interesting  city.  Here 
Pandita  Ramabai  lives  and  carries  on  her  work.  Ramabai  belongs 
to  the  highest  caste.  She  was  taught  Sanskrit  by  her  father  and 
mother.  At  sixteen  she  was  married.  She  said  her  parents  did  not 
throw  her  down  the  well  of  ignorance  by  giving  her  in  marriage  in 


BOMBAY,  POONA  AND  NELLORE 


243 


infancy.  She  became  an  advocate  of  female  education.  In 
Calcutta  she  was  examined  and  pronounced  “a  prodigy  of  erudi- 
tion.” When  she  was  eighteen  she  was  left  a widow  and  an  orphan 
with  a daughter  to  support.  She  took  the  platform  and  advocated 
the  cause  of  Hindu  women.  She  formed  a society  to  promote 
female  education  and  to  discourage  infant  marriages.  Feeling  her 
need  of  more  training  she  went  to  England.  There  she  became  a 
Christian  and  went  to  college  for  several  years.  Then  she  went  to 
America  and  stirred  many  by  her  eloquence.  She  returned  to 
Poona  and  opened  a home  for  high  caste  widows.  India  has 
23,000,000  widows  of  all  ages.  The  law  is,  “once  a widow,  always 
a widow.”  Their  heads  are  shaven,  they  are  starved  and  beaten, 
they  wear  special  garments  and  no  jewels.  These  are  “ badges  of 
shame.”  Ramabai  opened  her  home  with  one  child  widow.  The 
number  increased  to  sixty-nine.  We  called  to  see  her.  We  found 
her  surrounded  by  a group  of  girls.  She  was  reading  and  explain- 
ing the  Scriptures.  She  showed  us  through  the  compound.  Her 
home  is  a beautiful  one.  There  are  many  evidences  of  taste,  but 
none  of  wealth.  We  saw  the  class-rooms  and  the  library.  She  has 
fifty  girls  now;  of  these,  forty  are  widows.  Several  became  Chris- 
tians. A storm  was  raised  and  some  were  withdrawn.  No  effort  is 
made  to  turn  the  inmates  from  Hinduism.  But  the  atmosphere  of 
the  place  is  decidedly  Christian,  and  girls  do  give  themselves  in 
love  and  trust  to  Christ.  Ramabai  is  a quiet,  modest,  gentle  soul. 
It  is  plain  that  she  lives  in  the  Spirit,  and  walks  in  the  Spirit. 

R.  P.  Wilder  and  Max  Morehead  are  at  work  in  Poona  among 
the  college  students.  There  is  a daily  lecture.  On  Sunday  there  is 
a service  of  song,  and  this  is  preceded  by  a season  of  prayer.  A 
daily  paper  sounded  an  alarm.  It  said,  “ The  love  of  the  mission- 
aries is  more  dangerous  than  the  sword  of  the  Mohammedans.”  A 
Brahman  was  baptized.  He  came  to  the  hall  and  told  his  experi- 
ence. He  said,  “ You  may  beat  me;  you  may  kill  me;  I care  not.” 
Then  he  told  them  that  he  had  been  baptized.  There  was  a fiei’ce 
outcry  at  once.  The  meeting  became  a mob.  They  beat  him  and 
spat  in  his  face  and  tried  to  kill  him.  He  was  offered  good  posi- 
tions if  he  would  deny  the  faith,  but  he  remained  steadfast  and 
immovable.  The  missionaries  were  stoned.  The  building  was 
saturated  with  oil  and  set  on  fire.  Two  men  stood  at  the  door  and 
refused  admittance  to  the  young  men.  They  were  obliged  to  seek 
another  hall.  One  student  who  manifested  some  interest  was 
caught  and  locked  up  and  his  clothes  taken  away.  He  got  out  and 
came  to  Mr.  Wilder  almost  naked.  He  is  undaunted.  The  even- 


244 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


ing  we  were  at  the  service  there  were  several  weddings  near  by. 
There  was  a score  of  brass  bands.  It  was  as  if  bedlam  and  pande- ' 
monium  had  broken  loose.  The  speaking  was  interrupted,  but  the 
hall  was  full  and  the  attention  good.  Mr.  Wilder  feels  greatly 
cheered  in  the  work. 

We  called  to  see  the  Bernard  sisters.  They  are  nieces  of  Lord 
Lawrence.  One  has  charge  of  the  educational  work,  one  is  at  the 
head  of  the  medical  department,  and  the  third  superintends  the 
orphanage.  They  are  all  women  of  ability  and  education  and  con- 
secration. They  are  fitted  to  adorn  any  sphere.  They  work  at 
their  own  charges.  They  are  as  great  and  effective  in  their  way  as 
Ramabai  is  in  hers.  They  are  remarkably  happy  in  their  work. 
Their  joy  is  such  as  no  butterfly  of  fashion  or  belle  of  society  can 
ever  know.  Our  day  in  Poona  was  one  to  be  long  remembered. 

Our  next  halt  was  made  at  Nellore.  Most  of  the  country 
through  which  we  passed  is  rocky  and  poor.  The  population  is 
sparser  than  in  Bengal  or  the  Central  Provinces.  Mr.  Downie,  of 
the  American  Baptist  Missionary  Mission,  was  at  the  station  and 
constrained  us  to  abide  with  him.  He  and  Mrs.  Downie  and  their 
associates  contributed  in  every  way  to  our  enjoyment.  The  great 
work  of  the  Baptists  among  the  Telugus  began  at  Nellore.  The 
plant  here  is  a large  one.  The  whole  district  has  been  evangelized. 
The  church  in  Nellore  has  700  members.  There  are  225  boys  and 
girls  in  the  schools  on  the  compound.  The  industrial  department 
is  in  charge  of  Mrs.  Downie,  and  is  self-supporting  and  more.  The 
demand  for  the  work  is  greater  than  the  supply.  Dr.  Gould  has 
the  work  in  the  hospital  and  dispensaries.  Dr.  Downie  has  been 
in  Nellore  since  1872.  He  took  part  in  the  relief  in  the  famine  of 
1877.  He  told  us  that  as  much  relief  work  was  done  in  Nellore  as 
in  Ongole,  but  the  ingathering  that  followed  was  not  so  large. 
Still  it  has  been  very  gratifying.  With  such  a staff  and  with  such 
workers  as  preceded  them,  it  could  not  have  been  otherwise.  One 
evening  the  children  came  over  and  sang  and  recited  for  us.  The 
kindergarten  songs  were  as  entertaining  as  any  such  songs  at  home. 
We  saw  all  the  work  and  were  greatly  pleased  with  it.  We  left 
Nellore  for  Madras. 


BUNGALOW  IN  MAHOBA,  INDIA. 


TAJ  MAHAL. 


XXXIX. 


FROM  MADRAS  TO  COLOMBO. 

Madras  has  a population  of  500,000,  and  is  the  capital  of  the 
Presidency.  The  most  noted  institution  here  is  the  Christian  Col- 
lege. This  school  was  founded  by  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland. 
The  Wesleyan  and  Church  Societies  contribute  to  its  support. 
Professor  Kellett  showed  us  through  the  buildings.  There  are  nearly 
2,000  students  enrolled.  More  than  half  are  in  the  primary  depart- 
ment. One  student  in  ten  is  a Christian.  There  are  ten  European 
teachers  on  the  staff  and  about  seventy  natives.  Dr.  William  Mil- 
ler is  the  principal.  Some  are  not  satisfied  with  his  attitude  toward 
Hinduism  and  Mohammedanism.  They  feel  that  he  and  his  asso- 
ciates do  not  do  all  they  ought  to  win  the  students  to  the  faith  of 
Christ.  Dr.  Miller  is  a strong  man.  He  is  the  most  accomplished 
and  successful  teacher  in  India.  He  gives  reasons  for  his  course. 
The  calendar  states  that  what  the  college  desires  is  to  make  educa- 
tion an  instrument  of  opening  men’s  minds  to  moral  and  spiritual 
and  Christian  truth,  and  thereby  to  take  a humble  but  useful  part 
in  the  mighty  work  which  Christ  began  and  which  his  body,  the  uni- 
versal church,  is  bound  by  every  means  within  her  power  to  further. 
While  we  were  in  Madras  there  was  a conference  of  the  colleges  of 
Southern  India.  The  conference  was  held  in  one  of  the  halls  of 
Christian  College.  Forty  schools  were  represented.  J.  R.  Mott, 
J.  C.  White,  R.  P.  Wilder,  Max  Morehead,  and  J.  H.  Forman  were 
present.  The  advancement  of  the  cause  of  Christ  in  the  colleges 
was  the  one  aim  of  the  conference. 

We  visited  several  missions  and  inquired  concerning  the  progress 
of  the  work.  We  heard  here,  what  we  heard  in  other  cities,  that 
the  work  was  hindered  by  representatives  from  Christendom.  This 
is  not  true  of  all,  but  it  is  true  of  many.  We  called  to  see  Dr.  Mur- 
dock. He  has  been  in  India  over  forty  years.  His  books  are  every- 
where. They  are  widely  read  and  cannot  fail  to  do  much  good. 
We  heard  of  an  American  convict  and  went  to  see  him.  He  is  not 
an  American  by  birth.  It  is  not  clear  that  he  is  one  by  adoption. 
He  has  had  a half  dozen  different  names.  There  were  tears  in  his 
eyes  and  in  his  voice.  He  cries  too  easily.  His  term  will  soon 

245 


246 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


expire.  He  admits  that  he  has  been  a bad  man,  but  promises  to 
mend  his  ways. 

We  left  Madras  for  Colombo.  On  the  way  we  stopped  for  a few 
hours  at  Tanjore.  This  was  the  home  of  Schwartz  for  years.  His 
church  is  in  the  fort.  The  Rajah  took  a great  interest  in  him  and 
his  work.  No  doubt  the  favor  of  royalty  contributed  to  his  success. 
The  people  saw  that  Schwartz  was  able  to  protect  and  to  assist 
them.  Mr.  Blake,  the  missionary  in  charge,  showed  us  through  the 
church  and  the  schools.  There  are  600  boys  in  the  college.  In  the 
same  compound  there  is  a large  school  for  girls.  Near  by  is  a Chris- 
tian village.  Mr.  Blake  is  a High-church  man,  but  he  was  extremely 
obliging  and  gave  us  all  the  time  and  attention  we  could  desire. 
We  crossed  the  street  and  visited  the  Leipsic  Mission.  This  mis- 
sion carries  on  evangelistic  and  educational  work.  Caste  is  not  rec- 
ognized in  the  church  or  at  the  Lord’s  table.  In  the  homes  it  is. 
People  of  different  castes  do  not  marry.  The  missionaries  regard 
this  as  a social  regulation  and  do  not  interfere  with  it.  These  two 
missions  inherit  the  work  of  Schwartz.  We  saw  his  grave  in  the 
church.  When  the  old  Rajah  was  dying  he  sent  for  the  man  of  God 
and  entreated  him  to  become  guardian  for  his  young  son.  He  said 
to  him,  “This  is  not  my  son,  but  yours;  into  your  hand  I deliver 
him.”  When  Schwartz  died  the  young  prince  wrote  the  following 
lines,  which  were  placed  upon  his  tomb : 

“Firm  wast  thou,  humble  and  wise, 

Honest,  pure,  free  from  disguise ; 

Father  of  orphans,  the  widow’s  support, 

Comfort  in  sorrow  of  every  sort. 

To  the  benighted,  dispenser  of  light, 

Doing,  and  pointing  to,  that  which  is  right, 

Blessing  to  princes,  to  people,  to  me ; 

May  I,  my  father,  be  worthy  of  thee, 

Wisheth  and  prayeth  thy  Saraboji.” 

Our  next  call  was  made  at  Trichinopoly.  The  Society  for  the 
Propagation  of  the  Gospel  has  a school  here  with  1,500  boys  in  it. 
Of  these  700  are  in  the  primary  department.  This  is  the  largest 
school  south  of  Madras.  In  the  church  we  saw  the  grave  of  Heber. 
He  died  here  while  on  a tour  of  Episcopal  visitation.  His  grave  is 
very  simple.  The  temples  in  the  south  of  India  are  wholly  unlike 
anything  seen  in  other  parts  of  the  country.  The  gates  are  huge 
and  high.  They  and  the  temples  proper  are  covered  with  tiers  of 
images  of  gods  and  goddesses.  The  buildings  are  filled  with  rude 
carvings.  There  is  no  beauty  or  utility  anywhere.  The  temple  in 
Trichinopoly  covers  a vast  space.  People  inside  sell  all  sorts  of 


FROM  MADRAS  TO  COLOMBO 


247 


merchandise.  The  inclosure  looks  more  like  a market  than  a house 
of  prayer.  Crowds  of  priests  want  to  serve  as  guides.  They  follow 
visitors  about  and  then  demand  pay  for  imaginary  services.  They 
press  their  claims  with  an  importunity  worthy  of  a better  cause. 
We  found  the  missionaries  kind  and  helpful.  They  regretted  that 
we  could  not  stay  longer  and  see  more  of  their  work. 

The  next  day  was  spent  in  Madura.  This  district  is  as  large  as 
Massachusetts  and  is  worked  by  the  American  Board.  We  heard  a 
sermon  in  Tamil  in  the  morning.  At  Mr.  Herrick’s  request  I spoke 
in  the  evening.  After  the  service  Mr.  Chandler  took  us  to  the 
monthly  missionary  concert.  Here  Mr.  Wharton  spoke.  There 
are  two  self-supporting  churches  in  Madura.  They  pay  all  their 
own  expenses  and  aid  the  work  elsewhere.  The  next  morning  Mr. 
Chandler  showed  us  over  the  spacious  compound.  We  met  Dr.  Van 
Alen  in  the  hospital  and  Miss  Swift,  Miss  Root  and  Miss  Noyes  in 
their  buildings.  The  work  has  outgrown  the  premises.  In  the 
afternoon  we  rode  out  to  Pasamulai  to  see  the  college.  We  made  the 
acquaintance  of  Drs.  Washburn  and  Jones  and  Professor  Zumbro. 
We  saw  the  buildings  and  the  classes.  There  are  about  700  students 
here.  Most  of  these  are  believers.  The  representatives  of  the 
American  Board  are  able  men.  This  is  true  in  Japan  and  China  as 
well  as  in  India. 

Our  last  visit  was  made  at  Palamcottah.  This  is  in  the  Tinne- 
velly  district.  The  two  societies  connected  with  the  Church  of 
England  are  at  work  in  this  field.  The  work  began  more  than  a 
century  ago.  Schwartz  was  the  pioneer.  He  was  succeeded  by 
Rhenius,  Ringeltaube,  Jaenike,  Kohlkoff,  Thomas,  Ragland  and 
others.  Bishop  Sargent  was  here  for  fifty  years.  He  saw  the  num- 
ber of  converts  in  his  diocese  increase  from  9,000  to  55,000,  and  the 
number  of  missionary  agents  from  184  to  768.  No  wonder  that  on 
his  deathbed  he  said,  “ If  I had  a thousand  lives  they  should  all  be 
devoted  to  missionary  work.”  Mr.  Walker,  the  leading  missionary, 
put  us  in  the  way  of  seeing  the  schools  and  other  places  of  interest. 
We  spent  some  time  in  the  Sarah  Tucker  Institution.  Miss  Askwith 
has  300  girls  under  her  care.  Some  are  blind,  others  are  deaf  and 
dumb.  This  school  is  affiliated  with  the  Madras  University.  Mrs. 
Kember  has  ninety-five  girls  in  her  building.  Professor  Keyworth 
has  200  boys  in  the  High  School.  Professor  Schaffer  has  400  in  the 
college  in  Tinnevelly.  A great  work  is  being  done  here.  In  this  dis- 
trict there  are  465  schools  with  16,000  boys  and  girls  enrolled.  Miss 
Askwith  has  the  oversight  of  fifty  of  these  schools.  Miss  Blythe 
dii'ects  the  labors  of  forty  Bible  women.  Large  sums  of  money 


248 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


have  been  invested  in  this  mission.  The  returns  are  very  gratify- 
ing. At  this  point  Mr.  Wharton  left  for  Hurda.  He  had  been 
my  guide  for  two  weeks  and  helped  me  to  see  Southern  India  with 
profit.  Mr.  Mead,  a distinguished  Baptist  preacher  from  Adelaide, 
joined  me  here.  He  had  been  in  India  in  the  interest  of  missions, 
and  was  on  his  way  home. 

I have  found  English  clergymen  very  pleasant  socially.  They 
are  as  hospitable  as  one  could  wish.  But  they  are  priests,  and  they 
alone  are  qualified  to  minister  in  holy  things.  Not  only  so,  but  I 
have  found  that  to  Europeans  in  the  East  America  is  practically 
non-existent.  When  I would  introduce  the  subject  they  would  say, 
“ Really,”  or  “ O,”  and  begin  at  once  to  talk  about  something  else. 
They  do  not  know  that  nearly  half  the  missionary  work  of  the  world 
is  done  by  Americans.  They  know  as  little  about  the  New  World 
as  the  average  American  knows  about  the  Old,  if  they  know  as 
much.  Going  into  a store  to  buy  a hat,  the  salesman  said,  “Ameri- 
cans can’t  make  stiff  hats.”  I said,  “Americans  can  make  any- 
thing.” He  said,  “ They  can  make  soft  hats,  but  not  stiff  hats.” 
Mine  was  once  stiff.  He  said,  “You  must  go  to  London  for  stiff 
hats.”  I told  him  if  he  would  look  into  the  hat  he  was  disparaging 
he  would  see  that  it  was  made  in  London.  He  had  no  more  to  say. 

As  -we  sailed  from  Tuticorin  for  Colombo,  and  as  India  faded 
from  sight,  I thought  that  that  great  land  belongs  to  Christ,  because 
he  died  for  its  redemption,  and  he  shall  have  it.  The  struggle  with 
the  powers  of  darkness  will  be  a long  one.  But  it  must  be 
continued 

(1Until  that  land,  so  dear,  so  sorrowed  o’er, 

With  all  its  load  of  misery  and  sin, 

After  long  ages  of  transgression,  turn, 

And,  pierced  in  heart  with  love,  the  shaft  of  Kings, 

Fall  down  and  bathe  His  blessed  feet  with  tears  ; 

Then  rise,  and  to  the  listening  world  tell  out 
Her  deep  repentance  and  her  new  found  joy.,, 


BUNGALOW  IN  BILASPUIi,  INDIA. 


BOYS’  SCHOOL  IN  BILASPUR,  INDIA. 


XL. 


LARGE  INGATHERINGS  IN  INDIA. 

In  some  parts  of  India  large  numbers  have  become  obedient  to 
the  faith.  The  workers  in  other  missions  have  been  as  faithful  and 
diligent  in  holding  forth  the  word  of  life,  but  the  results  that 
rewarded  their  labors  and  cheered  their  hearts  have  not  been  so 
great.  The  large  ingatherings  have  been,  without  exception,  in 
missions  that  have  long  been  established.  A bountiful  sowing  has 
preceded  a bountiful  reaping.  Bishop  Thoburn  says  that  it  requires 
a generation  to  get  laborers  settled  and  fairly  at  work.  Distrust 
and  dislike  must  be  lived  down,  and  confidence  and  good  will 
secured,  before  the  people  will  listen  attentively  to  the  Gospel.  In 
several  instances  the  relief  given  in  time  of  famine  contributed  to 
the  large  results.  I propose  to  give  brief  accounts  of  some  suc- 
cessful missions  in  India. 

The  Gossner  mission  in  Chota  Nagpur  has  recently  celebrated 
its  Jubilee.  This  mission  works  among  the  Ivols,  an  aboriginal 
tribe.  Their  l'eligion  consists  in  the  worship  of  evil  spirits.  They 
think  they  please  the  gods  best  by  feasting,  drinking  and  dancing. 
All  diseases  are  attributed  to  demons  or  to  witches.  The  reports 
show  that  the  converts,  from  the  first,  number  52,246.  In  fifty 
years  many  have  died,  or  have  gone  back,  or  have  gone  to  Assam  or 
elsewhere.  Of  the  whole  number  of  converts,  40,000  are  living  and 
known.  The  missionaries  met  with  much  opposition.  The  con- 
verts were  plundered  by  armed  bands.  Their  rice,  their  money, 
their  ornaments  and  the  roofs  of  their  houses  were  seized  and 
carried  away. 

The  Arcot  mission  is  inseparably  connected  with  the  name  of 
Scudder.  Dr.  John  Scudder  was  one  of  the  first  physicians  of  New 
York  City.  He  read  a paper  on  “ The  Conversion  of  the  World; 
or,  The  Claims  of  Six  Hundred  Millions,  and  the  Ability  and  Duty 
of  the  Churches  Respecting  Them.”  He  offered  himself  to  the 
American  Board  and  was  accepted.  In  1819  he  sailed  from  Boston 
for  Ceylon.  He  decided  to  work  among  the  Tamils  and  to  make 
Madras  the  center  of  his  work.  Dr.  Scudder  was  a versatile  man. 
He  served  the  people  as  preacher,  teacher,  physician,  translater 

249 


250 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


and  editor.  He  was  instant  in  season  and  out  of  season.  He 
realized  his  own  desire  to  be  one  of  “ the  inner  circle  about  Jesus.” 
His  children  and  children’s  children  to  the  fourth  generation  have 
walked  in  his  steps.  For  his  eldest  son  Silas  his  prayer  was  that 
God  would  make  him  a Christian  and  a missionary.  Silas  wanted 
to  make  a fortune  as  a physician  in  New  York.  He  founded  the 
Women’s  Hospital  in  that  city  and  was  making  money.  But  God 
touched  his  heart  and  he  went  to  India  as  a medical  missionary. 
Dr.  Henry  M.  Scudder  selected  Arcot  as  his  field.  There  are  now 
in  the  mission  nine  missionaries,  eight  native  pastors,  sixteen  cate- 
chists, seventy-five  readers  and  teachers,  124  congregations,  a 
Christian  community  of  6,504  souls,  and  122  schools  with  4,517 
pupils.  Since  the  mission  was  opened,  railways,  bridges,  macadam- 
ized roads,  houses  of  brick  and  tile,  have  been  built;  electric 
wires  have  been  strung;  streets  have  been  cleaned  and  walls  white- 
washed. In  all  these  improvements  the  missionaries  have  been  in 
the  lead. 

The  Methodist  Episcopal  Society  opened  its  first  station  in  India 
in  1857.  In  recent  years  its  success  has  been  marvelous.  Not  less 
than  one  thousand  a month  renounce  idolatry  and  put  themselves 
under  Christian  instruction.  Dr.  E.  W.  Parker,  of  Lucknow,  gave 
me  an  account  of  the  work.  Some  low  caste  Sikhs  came  to  the 
missionary  in  Bareilly  and  told  him  that  they  had  heard  the  Gospel 
on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges  at  one  of  their  feasts,  and  they  wanted 
to  hear  more.  Some  were  led  to  confess  their  faith  in  Christ. 
These  were  sent  back  to  their  own  people  with  the  message  of 
salvation.  In  course  of  time  the  whole  caste,  consisting  of  about 
10,000,  was  won.  From  these  converts,  preachers,  catechists, 
railway  clerks  and  civil  servants  have  come.  The  work  among  the 
Chamars  began  in  this  way:  A religious  teacher  was  led  to  Christ  in 
the  Church  mission.  He  wanted  to  go  home  and  preach  to  his  own 
kindred.  That  mission  had  no  work  in  that  part  of  the  country. 
He  went  to  the  Methodist  mission  and  told  his  history.  He  was  so 
revered  by  his  pupils  that  they  would  wash  his  feet  and  drink  the 
water.  He  felt  confident  that  many  of  these  would  listen  to  his 
words.  He  wanted  to  preach.  Dr.  Parker  took  him  with  him  on 
his  tours  among  the  towns  and  cities.  He  was  able  and  eloquent, 
and  so  spoke  that  many  believed.  One  day  he  said,  “ This  is  not 
the  work  I want  to  do.  Do  you  see  these  villages  ? I have  disci- 
ples in  them  all.  They  will  believe  what  I say.”  Dr.  Parker  said 
to  him,  “Go.”  Soon  after  a delegation  returned  with  him  and 
said,  “ We  want  this  man  to  live  with  us.  We  will  feed,  and 


LARGE  INGATHERINGS  IN  INDIA 


251 


clothe,  and  house,  and  protect  him.”  He  went  with  them  that 
very  day.  Many  thousands  have  avowed  their  faith  in  Jesus 
Christ.  This  particular  caste  numbers  500,000;  there  is  reason  to 
believe  that  the  whole  caste  will  be  brought  over.  The  largest 
ingathering  has  been  from  the  sweepers,  the  lowest  of  all  castes. 
Some  boys  asked  to  be  taught.  The  teachers  did  not  stop  to 
inquire  as  to  their  caste.  Schools  were  opened  in  their  villages 
and  myriads  have  believed.  Caste  is  not  recognized  in  the 
churches.  But  the  work,  in  the  main,  has  been  along  caste  lines. 
One  family  has  been  used  to  reach  other  families.  Converts  find  it 
easier  to  work  among  their  own  kindred  than  among  strangers. 
Bishop  Thoburn  told  me  that  the  converts  connected  with  the 
Methodist  Society  exceed  55,000.  Dr.  Parker  thinks  that  at  least 
90,000  have  broken  away  from  idolatry. 

The  Madura  mission  of  the  American  Board  was  established  in 
1836.  Two  men  came  from  Ceylon  to  occupy  a field  as  large  as 
Massachusetts.  These  two  were  soon  joined  by  several  others. 
The  present  staff  consists  of  thirteen  missionaries,  sixteen  assistant 
missionaries,  543  native  agents.  Schools  have  been  opened  for 
girls  and  boys.  Teachers  and  preachers  are  trained  for  service. 
Hospitals  and  dispensaries  have  been  provided  for  the  sick. 
Twenty-eight  Bible  women  are  employed.  They  meet  with  many 
rebuffs.  The  people  whom  they  seek  to  help  and  bless  say,  “It  is 
not  our  custom  to  learn  to  read;  it  is  not  our  custom  to  sing.” 
Custom  in  India  is  law.  Miss  Swift  gives  an  account  of  what  these 
women  meet.  One  enters  a house  and  her  pupil  says,  “ O,  I can’t 
study  to-day  ! We  are  in  such  distress,  we  haven’t  eaten  anything 
to-day  ! Early  this  morning  a cat  jumped  in  at  one  window  and 
out  at  the  other  ! We  are  quite  sure  it  must  have  been  a demon, 
and  something  terrible  is  going  to  happen.”  Some  hill  people  said 
to  a missionary,  “We  die  like  beasts,  and  are  buried  like  dogs; 
ought  you  neglect  us?”  That  is  not  the  mental  attitude  of  the 
majority  of  the  people  in  India.  Of  almost  every  convert  it  can  be 
said,  “Is  this  not  a brand  plucked  from  the  fire?”  When  we 
remember  the  obstinate  opposition  to  Christianity  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  Madura  mission  has  been  eminently  successful.  The 
adherents  number  14,810;  the  youths  in  school,  6,873. 

The  work  in  Tinnevelly  began  more  than  a century  ago. 
Schwartz  sent  his  agents  to  preach  the  Gospel  throughout  all 
Southern  India.  In  1816  Chaplain  Hough  found  three  thousand 
Christians  in  Tinnevelly.  He  did  what  he  could  for  them  himself 
and  applied  to  the  Church  Missionary  Society  for  evangelists. 


252 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Two  were  sent  out.  Whole  villages  expressed  a desire  to  be 
taught.  As  the  years  went  on,  the  workers  were  reinforced. 
Schools  of  all  kinds  were  opened.  Workers  were  trained.  The 
Gospel  was  preached  far  and  wide.  After  a severe  famine  multi- 
tudes turned  to  the  Lord.  They  were  impressed  and  led  to 
examine  the  claims  of  the  Gospel  by  the  kindness  shown  them  in 
distress.  The  greatest  success  was  in  one  caste,  that  of  the  pal- 
myra climbers.  These  people  have  been  wonderfully  improved 
since  they  accepted  Jesus  as  their  Savior  and  Lord.  The  Christian 
community  connected  with  this  society  now  numbers  55,571;  the 
youth  under  instructions,  19,564.  The  Society  for  the  Propaga- 
tion of  the  Gospel  represents  the  same  religious  body  and  has 
worked  in  one  part  of  this  district  since  1825.  The  success  of  this 
society  has  been  almost  as  large  as  that  of  the  Church  Missionary 
Society.  It  reports  42,170  adherents,  and  15,764  scholars.  The 
converts  of  the  two  societies  aggregate  nearly  one  hundred  thou- 
sand souls.  The  London  Missionary  Society  has  been  at  work 
among  the  same  people  and  among  their  neighbors  in  Travancore. 
The  place  last  named  is  the  stronghold  of  Brahmanism  in  Southern 
India.  At  one  festival  the  Maharajah  officiates  for  a short  time  as 
one  of  the  bearers  of  the  palanquin  of  the  chief  Brahman.  After 
doing  so,  he  washes  his  feet  and  drinks  some  of  the  water.  The 
London  Society  has  41,000  converts  under  its  care,  and  17,240 
pupils  in  its  schools. 

Perhaps  the  work  of  the  American  Baptists  among  the  Telugus 
is  more  widely  known  than  any  other  work  in  India.  This  work 
began  in  1840.  Four  years  later  a church  of  eight  members  was 
organized  in  Nellore.  At  the  meeting  of  the  Board  in  1848,  the 
question  was,  Shall  the  Telugu  mission  be  continued  or  abandoned  ? 
The  decision  was  in  its  favor.  Five  years  later  the  same  question 
was  discussed.  The  results  had  been  discouragingly  small.  Some 
one  proposed  that  Dr.  Jewett  be  instructed  to  close  the  mission 
and  remove  to  Burma.  The  Corresponding  Secretary  asked, 
“ And  who  will  write  the  letter  ? And  who  will  write  the  letter  ? ” 
His  tone  indicated  that  whoever  would  do  so,  he  would  not.  One 
speaker  referred  to  the  mission  as  the  one  mission  east  of  the  Bay 
of  Bengal.  He  spoke  of  it  as  the  Lone  Star  Mission.  The  decision 
went  over  to  the  next  day.  That  night  Dr.  S.  F.  Smith  wrote  the 
famous  lines: 

“ Shine  on,  Lone  Star!  thy  radiance  bright 

Shall  spread  o’er  all  the  Eastern  sky  ; 

Morn  breaks  apace  from  gloom  and  night ; 

Shine  on  and  bless  the  pilgrim’s  eye. 


G.  \V.  Coffman.  Damoh. 

Dr.  A.  C.  and  Dr.  Lillian  B.  Miller,  Bilaspur. 


WORKERS  IN  INDIA. 


LARGE  INGATHERINGS  IN  INDIA 


253 


“Shine  on,  Lone  Star  1 I would  not  dim 
The  light  that  shines  with  dubious  ray ; 

The  lonely  Star  of  Bethlehem 
Led  on  a bright  and  glorious  day. 

“ Shine  on,  Lone  Star  ! in  grief  and  tears 
And  sad  reverses  oft  baptized  ; 

Shine  on  amid  thy  sister  spheres ; 

Lone  Stars  in  heaven  are  not  despised. 

“Shine  on,  Lone  Star  1 Who  lifts  his  hand 
To  dash  to  earth  so  bright  a gem, 

A new  ‘ lost  Pleiad  ’ from  the  band 
That  sparkles  in  night’s  diadem  1 

“ Shine  on,  Lone  Star  ! The  day  draws  near 
When  none  will  shine  more  fair  than  thou ; 

Thou  born  and  nursed  in  doubt  and  fear 
Wilt  glitter  on  Immanuel’s  brow. 

“ Shine  on,  Lone  Star,  till  earth  redeemed 
In  dust  shall  bid  its  idols  fall ; 

And  thousands  whom  thy  radiance  beamed 
Shall  crown  the  Savior  Lord  of  all.  ” 

The  poem  saved  the  mission.  It  was  unanimously  resolved  to 
reinforce  the  workers.  Several  years  later,  owing  to  a lack  of  suc- 
cess, the  old  question  recurred.  Dr.  Jewett  said  that  even  if  the 
Board  declined  to  aid  him,  he  would  go  back  to  live  and  die  among 
the  Telugus.  Some  said,  “ If  that  is  your  feeling,  we  must  send 
some  one  back  with  you  to  give  you  Christian  burial.”  John  E. 
Clough  was  appointed  to  go  with  him.  When  the  great  famine 
came  in  1876,  relief  works  were  opened.  The  missionaries  did 
what  they  could  to  save  the  people  alive.  Mr.  Clough  was  an 
engineer.  He  was  asked  to  superintend  the  cutting  of  one  section 
of  the  Buckingham  Canal.  While  the  men  were  eating  and  resting 
the  native  evangelists  preached  to  them.  For  fifteen  months  there 
were  no  baptisms.  It  was  not  till  the  famine  was  over  and  no 
further  pecuniary  favors  were  expected  that  Mr.  Clough  consented 
to  baptize  any.  He  was  afraid  of  unworthy  motives.  Again  and 
again  he  told  the  people  to  go  home  and  wait  a few  months  longer. 
The  time  came  when  they  would  not  hear  his  request  for  delay. 
They  demanded  baptism  as  their  right.  He  and  his  associates 
began  to  examine  them.  In  six  months  9,606  were  baptized. 
There  were  2,222  baptisms  in  one  day.  The  work  began  at  six  in 
the  morning.  After  prayer,  two  native  evangelists  took  their  place 
in  the  water.  When  they  grew  weary,  two  others  relieved  them. 
They  rested  from  eleven  till  two,  and  at  five  they  were  done.  Two 
men  in  eight  hours  baptized  over  two  thousand.  Had  six  officiated 


254 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


they  could  have  completed  the  task  in  less  than  three  hours.  The 
people  of  one  village  asked  for  baptism.  The  missionaries  tried  to 
send  them  away.  They  said,  “We  don’t  want  any  money;  we 
will  not  ask  for  any,  either  directly  or  indirectly,  either  now  or 
hereafter.  As  we  have  lived  thus  far  by  our  work, — by  the  blisters 
on  our  hands  we  can  prove  this  to  you, — so  we  will  continue  to  live, 
or  if  we  die  we  shall  die,  but  we  want  you  to  baptize  us.”  The 
result  was  that  in  three  days  there  were  3,536  baptisms.  In  another 
field  Dr.  Clough  visited  ninety-eight  villages  and  baptized  1,068. 
In  the  mission  there  are  ninety-eight  missionaries;  266  native 
preachers;  eighty-three  churches;  56,683  native  Christians;  577 
schools,  and  8,112  pupils  in  them. 

These  large  ingatherings  are  cheering,  but  we  must  not  be  cast 
down  because  there  are  not  many  of  them.  In  most  missions  the 
results  are  quite  as  great  as  we  have  any  reason  to  expect.  If 
societies  have  reaped  sparingly,  it  is  because  they  sowed  sparingly. 
If  we  will  strengthen  the  staff  of  workers  and  supply  their  needs, 
we  shall  see  most  gratifying  returns.  Nothing  can  be  truer  than 
the  words  of  Carey,  “We  are  sure  to  take  the  fortress,  if  we  can 
but  persuade  ourselves  to  sit  down  long  enough  before  it.  We 
shall  reap  if  we  faint  not.” 


XLI. 


THINGS  INDIAN. 

One  is  surprised  to  find  the  skin  of  the  people  so  dark.  For- 
eigners speak  of  them  as  if  they  were  negroes.  This  is  a mistake. 
They  are  black,  or  nearly  so,  but  their  features  are  unlike  those  of 
the  negro.  They  belong  to  the  Aryan  race.  They  are  of  the  same 
stock  as  the  nations  of  Europe.  Some  are  darker  than  others. 
The  aborigines  are,  as  a rule,  the  darkest;  the  Brahmans  are  the 
fairest.  The  color  of  these  people  is  due  to  the  climate.  The 
aborigines  live  more  in  the  open  air  than  the  Brahmans,  and  conse- 
quently are  darker.  The  Jews  in  India  are  much  swarthier  than  in 
Europe  or  America.  Most  of  the  sheep  are  black. 

Children  wear  little  or  no  clothing.  Boys  and  girls  go  about  the 
streets  and  attend  Sunday-school  as  naked  as  when  they  were  born. 
They  may  have  on  a bracelet  or  anklet  or  ear-ring  or  nose-ring,  but 
nothing  in  the  way  of  clothing.  Like  our  first  parents,  they  are 
naked  and  not  ashamed.  Working  people  wear  scant  covering.  A 
loin-cloth  costs  not  over  three  cents.  Nothing  more  is  needed  for  a 
man.  He  needs  neither  hat  nor  shoes.  Working  women  wear 
more  than  men,  but  not  much.  Ten  cents  would  pay  for  an  aver- 
age outfit.  As  for  changes  of  style  to  accord  with  the  season,  that 
is  something  of  which  they  have  never  heard.  The  poor  sleep  at 
night  in  the  clothes  they  wore  during  the  day.  Servants  sleep  at  the 
doors  in  the  halls  and  on  the  verandas,  or  wherever  they  can  find 
room  to  stretch  their  wearied  bodies.  Rich  people  spend  more 
thought  and  money  on  dress.  They  delight  in  bright  colors.  In 
Calcutta  and  elsewhere  one  sees  men  dressed  in  green,  or  blue,  or 
white,  or  red,  or  yellow,  or  crimson.  Men  go  about  in  the  heat  of 
the  day  with  no  covering  on  their  heads.  This  would  be  fatal  to  an 
American.  The  natives  are  used  to  the  sun  and  do  not  mind  its 
fiercest  rays.  The  climate  of  India  is  warm,  and  clothing  is  not 
needed  as  a protection,  as  it  is  in  the  north. 

The  common  people  live  in  clay  or  stone  buildings.  They  spend 
most  of  their  time  in  the  open  air.  The  cooking  is  done  out  of 
doors.  In  the  rains  the  family  sleep  in  the  house,  the  rest  of  the 
year  they  sleep  outside.  In  winter  they  sit  in  front  of  the  house  to 

255 


256 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


keep  warm.  The  heat  comes  from  the  sun.  The  houses  have 
no  furniture.  A bed  is  a luxury.  It  costs  fifteen  cents.  There  are 
no  tables  or  chairs.  There  is  no  carpet  on  the  floor  and  no  paper  or 
pictures  on  the  wall.  Knives  and  forks  and  spoons  are  not  con- 
sidered among  the  necessaries.  The  rich  keep  their  women  indoors. 
Those  who  wish  to  be  fashionable  do  the  same.  I was  in  the  house 
of  one  man  of  wealth  and  social  position.  I cannot  say  that  I 
envied  him  his  home.  Americans  study  comfort  and  conveniences 
as  no  other  people  on  the  globe.  One  of  our  mechanics  has  more 
of  both  in  his  house  than  an  Indian  Maharajah  has  or  than  Solo- 
mon in  all  his  glory  had. 

Mechanics  sit  at  their  work.  This  is  true  of  the  blacksmith,  the 
carpenter,  the  stonecutter,  and  the  carriage-maker.  Bricklayers  sit 
on  the  wall  as  they  build.  Those  that  carry  mortar  and  brick  stand, 
but  no  workmen  do  this  if  they  can  possibly  sit.  The  barber  sits 
and  his  victim  sits  opposite  him.  They  look  like  a pair  of  fighting 
cocks.  People  sit  in  the  bazars  and  in  the  stores  to  sell  goods. 
Neighbors  sit  and  gossip.  They  never  seem  to  grow  weary  or  change 
their  positions.  When  they  talk  they  sit  on  their  heels;  they  do  not 
sit  on  chairs  or  on  the  ground.  They  might  work  to  better  advan- 
tage and  accomplish  more  if  they  stood  on  their  feet,  but  they  are 
never  in  a hurry.  Time  is  nothing.  What  cannot  be  done  to-day 
can  be  done  to-morrow.  It  is  a matter  of  no  consequence  if  it  is 
never  done. 

The  tools  used  are  of  the  most  primitive  character.  The  plow 
only  tickles  the  ground.  Their  animals  are  not  strong  enough  to 
go  down  deep.  They  cut  with  a sickle.  In  one  field  I counted  sixty 
persons.  The  threshing  is  done  with  oxen.  They  spin  with  the 
rudest  kind  of  a wheel.  They  never  heard  of  the  spinning-jenny. 
If  they  have  they  have  no  desire  to  adopt  it.  They  prefer  that  to 
which  they  and  their  ancestors  have  been  accustomed  for  ages. 
They  do  not  use  as  simple  a thing  as  a wheelbarrow.  Instead  they 
use  a basket  and . carry  it  on  their  heads.  They  use  a long  hoe 
instead  of  a shovel.  Water  is  drawn  by  hand,  and  not  by  pumps. 
The  people  are  conservative  and  reject  our  Western  inventions. 
They  admit  that  these  things  may  be  very  good  for  us,  but  they  do 
not  want  them.  Labor  is  abundant  and  cheap.  They  have  no 
capital  to  invest  in  machinery. 

The  people  of  India  delight  in  jewels.  Long  before  children 
begin  to  wear  any  clothing,  they  wear  necklaces.  Women  wear 
rings  on  their  ankles  and  toes  and  arms  and  in  their  ears  and  noses. 
The  girls  that  cut  grass  in  the  jungles  and  sell  it  wear  a dozen  rings 


AN  INDIAN  1’liINCE.  AN  INDIAN  MAIIAKAJAH, 


THIXGS  IXDIAX 


257 


on  their  arms.  Their  anklets  are  often  large  and  cumbersome. 
Men  wear  ear-rings  and  nose-rings  so  large  that  they  will  go  over 
their  heads.  You  will  find  bells  on  horses  and  bullocks.  Most  of 
these  jewels  are  glass  or  iron  or  some  other  cheap  metal.  Yet  the 
people  are  as  proud  of  them  as  if  they  were  children.  India  has 
more  goldsmiths  than  blacksmiths.  Much  of  the  wealth  of  a pros- 
perous family  is  put  into  jewels.  These  can  be  easil}’  hid  or  sold  in 
case  of  need.  These  are  the  last  things  that  the  family  will  sell. 
One  officer  in  the  famine  district  was  telling  me  that  the  people 
could  not  be  very  poor  as  they  had  been  sending  considerable 
amounts  of  gold  to  London.  A missionary  said  that  that  meant 
that  they  were  in  the  last  ditch.  It  was  an  indication,  not  of  wealth, 
but  of  extreme  need. 

They  wash  their  clothing  in  a peculiar  way.  They  have  no  steam 
laundries.  There  is  one  caste  that  does  all  the  washing.  Wherever 
you  see  a river  or  lake  or  pond  you  will  find  some  men  of  this  caste 
at  work.  They  stand  in  the  stream  while  they  pursue  their  calling. 
They  do  not  use  hot  water.  They  have  a flat  stone  and  they  beat 
the  clothing  on  this  stone.  They  have  a kind  of  soap  or  some  sub- 
stitute for  soap.  In  this  process  the  clothes  are  washed  clean.  At 
the  same  time  they  are  cut  worse  than  in  a hotel  laundry. 

"Women  work  on  buildings  and  in  the  fields  as  men  do.  They 
draw  water,  mix  and  carry  mortar  and  brick  and  stone.  They  help 
to  make  the  roadbeds  for  railways.  They  go  into  the  jungles  and 
collect  fuel  and  bear  it  on  their  heads  to  the  bazars.  They  reap  in 
time  of  harvest.  They  are  paid  less  than  men.  Not  being  so  strong, 
perhaps  they  do  not  do  so  much. 

The  number  of  servants  in  a European  household  surprises  a 
stranger.  This  is  an  old  custom  and  it  cannot  be  changed.  One 
servant  cooks,  another  sweeps,  another  carries  water,  another  cuts 
grass  for  the  bullocks,  another  washes,  another  sews,  another  waits 
on  the  table,  another  looks  after  the  children.  An  ordinary  family 
needs  ten  servants  and  cannot  get  along  with  less.  One  will  do  one 
thing  and  on  no  account  will  he  do  anything  else.  These  are  paid 
from  ten  to  five  rupees  a month.  A rupee  is  worth  less  than  thirty 
cents.  On  this  small  sum  they  support  themselves  and  families. 
One  good  servant  in  America  will  do  as  much  as  the  ten  and  give 
better  satisfaction,  and  will  cost  about  as  much.  The  foreigners  can 
not  do  differently.  They  take  things  as  they  find  them.  Some 
have  tried  to  get  on  with  one  or  two  servants  and  found  it  impos- 
sible. It  is  not  strange  that  the  people  are  poor.  If  ten  men,  in 

order  to  observe  caste  regulations,  do  the  work  of  one,  they  must 
17 


258 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


divide  the  wages  of  one  among  themselves.  They  are  only  playing 
at  work.  There  is  little  manufacturing  done  in  India.  The  people 
hold  to  the  old  methods,  foolishly  thinking  that  machinery  would 
make  havoc  of  all  their  social  arrangements  and  throw  multitudes 
out  of  work.  It  might  do  this  for  a time,  but  after  a little  it  would 
increase  their  wealth  at  a rate  that  would  astonish  their  political 
economists. 

The  hours  of  eating  are  unlike  ours.  In  the  hotels  in  Calcutta 
and  Bombay  you  can  have  tea  and  toast  and  fruit  in  bed  at  any 
hour.  Breakfast  is  served  at  half-past  eight,  tiffin  at  half-past 
one,  tea  at  four,  and  dinner  at  eight.  The  missionaries  have  the 
small  breakfast  of  tea  and  toast  about  seven.  They  woi*k  till  nearlj 
noon  and  then  have  breakfast.  In  the  heat  of  the  day  they  relig- 
iously keep  out  of  the  sun.  They  have  dinner  at  six,  and  may  have 
tea  in  the  afternoon.  The  people  of  India  eat  twice  in  the  day. 
They  have  one  full  meal  and  one  luncheon.  Their  main  article  of 
food  is  rice.  In  addition  they  eat  bread  and  sweets.  Most  of  them 
lie  down  and  rise  up  hungry.  They  are  better  off  than  ever  before, 
but  their  condition  is  pitiable.  There  is  always  famine  somewhere. 
The  government  opens  relief  works  and  remits  taxes.  Men  are 
paid  less  than  four  cents  a day  and  women  less  than  three.  This  is 
all  they  have  to  keep  their  families  on. 

India  is  the  paradise  of  idolatry.  In  Athens  it  was  easier 
to  find  a god  than  a man.  The  same  is  true  here.  India  has 
a population  of  287,000,000  and  330,000,000  objects  of  worship. 
There  are  sacred  plants  and  trees.  The  people  hang  rags  and 
bits  of  paper  on  the  branches.  Under  the  trees  there  are  stones 
painted  red.  They  pour  water  or  scatter  leaves  and  flowers 
over  the  symbols  of  deity.  Much  of  their  worship  is  inde- 
cent. Most  of  it  is  unworthy  of  human  beings.  They  worship 
birds  and  beasts  and  creeping  things.  The  monkey  is  a god.  In 
Benares  there  is  a temple  set  apart  to  monkeys.  The  cow  is  spe- 
cially sacred.  One  of  their  grievances  against  the  English  is  that 
they  kill  the  cow  and  eat  her  flesh.  There  is  a society  whose  aim  is 
the  protection  of  the  cow.  Its  agents  preach  in  the  bazars  and 
carry  on  their  propaganda  everywhere.  The  purpose  of  this  wor- 
ship is,  not  to  make  the  worshipers  pure  and  perfect,  but  to  ward  off 
some  peril  or  evil,  or  to  secure  some  coveted  good.  Of  India  it  can 
be  said  that  darkness  covers  the  land,  and  gross  darkness  the  people. 
The  Hindus  are  wholly  given  to  idolatry.  The  men  on  the  streets 
have  marks  on  their  foreheads  or  breasts  or  arms.  These  marks 
are  made  of  red  or  white  clay  or  paint.  Some  are  parallel  lines, 


THINGS  INDIAN 


259 


others  are  in  the  form  of  a trident.  They  have  been  to  the  river 
and  bathed  and  worshiped,  and  the  marks  are  to  certify  to  this  fact. 
An  expert  can  tell  the  god  they  worship  by  looking  at  these  marks. 

The  roads  are  very  good.  The  English  built  them.  They  will 
last  for  ages.  All  through  India,  in  the  towns  and  along  the  roads, 
there  are  government  bungalows.  In  these  there  are  places  where 
you  can  spread  your  bed  and  sleep.  Food  can  be  had  at  moderate 
prices.  The  Hindus  do  not  want  people  to  enter  their  homes.  The 
shadow  of  a stranger  would  defile  their  meat  and  drink.  They  have 
serais  in  which  their  own  people  can  sleep,  but  they  make  no  pro- 
vision for  other  travelers.  At  all  the  railway  stations  one  can  get 
food  and  a place  to  sleep.  In  India,  as  in  Japan  and  China,  evei’y 
traveler  carries  his  own  bedding.  The  government  provides  a cot 
and  he  finds  the  rest.  These  bungalows  are  a great  convenience. 
The  railways  are  not  managed  like  ours.  The  conductor  does  not  see 
that  you  get  on  or  get  off  at  the  right  station.  He  does  not  collect 
the  tickets.  His  business  is  to  see  that  the  train  runs  on  time.  As 
you  get  off  the  station-master  collects  the  tickets.  The  door  is 
locked  while  the  train  is  in  motion.  One  can  be  fined  for  getting 
off  before  it  stops.  Ice-water  is  sold  to  passengers.  In  the  first 
and  second-class  coaches  one  can  sleep  on  the  seats.  There  is  no 
extra  charge  for  this.  There  are  no  sleeping  cars. 

Every  native  carries  a brass  vessel  when  he  travels.  This  is 
called  a “lota.”  In  it  he  carries  water  to  drink  or  to  wash  in. 
Water  men  with  pigskins  go  up  and  down  the  platform  with  water 
for  passengers.  The  natives  get  what  they  want  from  them  or  from 
a pump  on  the  grounds.  In  the  morning  they  go  out  and  wash. 
They  use  sand  instead  of  soap.  No  Hindu  goes  anywhere  without 
his  lota.  He  takes  it  with  him  to  the  Ganges  and  carries  home 
water  to  drink. 

The  country  is  poor.  In  no  city,  aside  from  Calcutta,  Bombay 
and  Madras,  did  I see  any  signs  of  wealth.  There  is  famine  all  the 
time  in  some  parts.  The  people  are  not  provident.  They  spend  much 
on  silly  customs.  Marriages  are  a great  tax.  Feasts  must  be  given 
and  presents  must  be  made.  The  people  bury  money.  They  are 
afraid  to  trust  the  banks  or  to  loan  it  at  interest.  Agriculture  is  the 
main  source  of  wealth.  There  is  little  mining  or  manufacturing. 

The  women  of  India  are  degraded.  The  caste  women  are  shut 
up  and  know  nothing  of  what  is  going  on  in  the  world.  The  out- 
caste  women  have  more  freedom,  but  they  are  just  as  ignorant  and 
superstitious.  On  two  things  all  Hindus  are  agreed,  namely,  “ The 
cow  is  a sacred  animal;  woman  is  an  unclean  animal.”  In  ancient 


260 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


times  it  was  not  so.  Then  she  was  not  married  in  infancy  and  with- 
out any  choice  in  the  selection  of  a husband.  She  was  married  at  a 
reasonable  age,  and  it  was  her  privilege  to  choose  the  man  to  whom 
she  was  to  be  joined  in  wedlock.  If  her  husband  died  she  could 
marry  again.  One  of  the  poets  said, 

“A  wile  is  hall  the  man,  his  truest  friend — 

A loving  wile  is  a perpetual  spring 
Of  virtue,  pleasure,  wealth  ; — a laithlul  wile 
Is  his  best  aid  in  seeking  heavenly  bliss, 

A sweetly-speaking  wile  is  a companion 
In  solitude  ; a lather  in  advice  ; 

A mother  in  all  seasons  ol  distress, 

A rest  in  passing  through  life’s  wilderness.” 

Since  then  her  lot  has  been  changed  for  the  worse.  She  is  mar- 
ried in  infancy.  She  has  no  voice  in  the  selection.  No  matter  how 
debauched  and  unfaithful  a husband  may  be,  his  wife  is  taught  to 
revere  him  as  a god.  Until  recently  if  he  died  she  was  burned  alive 
with  his  body.  She  was  taught  that  she  would  have  45,000,000  years 
of  bliss  with  her  husband  after  being  burned  with  him.  Even  now 
she  may  not  marry.  Being  a widow,  her  jewels  are  stripped  off,  her 
delicate  clothing  is  taken  away.  She  must  eat  one  meal  a day  only, 
and  twice  a month  she  must  fast.  She  is  made  a drudge  and  regard- 
ed as  a harlot.  She  regrets  that  she  can  not  be  burned  and  escape  a 
world  of  misery  and  disgrace. 

The  most  peculiar  thing  in  India  is  caste.  Many  centuries  ago 
the  people  were  divided  into  four  classes.  The  priests,  or  Brahmans, 
sprang  from  the  head  of  Brahm,  the  soldiers  from  his  shoulders,  the 
cultivators  of  the  soil  from  his  thighs,  and  the  Sudras  or  servants 
from  his  feet.  The  priests  became  the  dominant  class.  They 
taught  the  others  that  they  existed  by  their  permission  and  to  min- 
ister to  their  needs.  The  three  highest  castes  wear  the  sacred  thread, 
and  are  known  as  the  twice-born.  There  are  many  sub-divisions 
of  each  caste.  The  Sudras  now  rank  pretty  high.  Beneath  them 
are  the  out-castes.  The  Brahmans  still  hold  that  they  are  to  be 
regarded  as  supreme  divinities.  The  people  delight  to  honor  them. 
A low  caste  man  will  go  up  to  a Brahman  with  a basin  of  water. 
The  Brahman  will  thrust  his  foot  into  the  water,  and  the  low  caste 
man  will  go  away  and  drink  it.  A Hindu  may  believe  anything  and 
do  anything;  he  may  be  an  atheist,  a pantheist,  a polytheist;  he 
may  be  guilty  of  lying,  theft,  uncleanness,  or  murder,  provided  he 
holds  fast  to  caste  and  worships  the  Brahmans.  Let  him  have  all 
the  virtues  and  yet  go  to  England,  or  eat  beef,  or  dine  with  a person 
of  another  caste,  or  marry  a widow,  or  even  take  a glass  of  water 


LEPERS  IX  HURDA,  INDIA. 


PREPARING  TO  BERN  THE  DEAD. 


THINGS  INDIAN 


261 


from  the  hand  of  a Christian,  and  he  is  put  out  of  caste  at  once. 
He  may  be  restored  by  taking  penitential  pills  made  from  the  five 
products  of  the  cow  and  paying  the  Brahmans  handsomely.  Caste 
is  a curse.  It  prevents  any  aspiration.  One  can  never  rise  out  of 
the  sphere  into  which  he  was  born.  It  stifles  compassion.  Men 
going  along  a road  may  find  a man  smitten  with  disease  and  dying; 
he  may  ask  for  a drink  of  water;  they  pay  no  more  attention  than 
if  he  was  a dog.  He  may  be  an  out-caste;  if  so  his  presence  is 
a pollution,  and  they  will  not  play  the  part  of  the  good  Samaritan. 
This  evil  system  is  doomed.  God  is  smiting  it  with  both  hands  and 
it  cannot  long  survive.  As  one  of  her  own  sons  has  said,  “ India 
belongs  to  Christ,  and  he  alone  shall  have  it.”  Everything  in  India 
“that  is  bad  in  custom,  false  in  creed,  and  all  that  makes  the  boor 
and  mars  the  man,  shall  pass  away  forever.” 


XLII. 


FROM  CEYLON  TO  AUSTRALIA. 

Ceylon  has  been  called  a pearl-drop  on  the  brow  of  the  Indian 
Continent.  Its  greatest  length  is  from  north  to  south,  and  meas- 
ures 270  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth  is  140.  Its  area  is  25,000 
square  miles.  Four-fifths  of  the  island  are  comparatively  level; 
one-fifth  is  mountainous.  Lying  wholly  within  the  tropics,  Ceylon 
is  clothed  with  perennial  green.  The  verdure  extends  from  the 
tops  of  the  mountains  to  the  sea.  Rice  is  the  principal  grain. 
Among  the  fruits  are  oranges,  bananas,  guavas,  mangoes,  cocoa- 
nuts.  It  is  said  that  the  cocoanut  trees  number  30,000,000.  Thei*e 
are  a hundred  uses  to  which  this  tree  may  be  put.  The  leaves, 
stems  of  the  leaves,  sap,  nuts,  oil,  shell  of  the  nut,  fibre  and  trunk, 
are  all  utilized.  The  palmyra  is  scarcely  less  useful.  From  it  the 
natives  draw  their  toddy,  make  their  oil,  kindle  their  fire,  carry 
their  water,  store,  cook,  and  sweeten  their  food.  From  this  tree 
they  build  entire  houses.  Cinnamon  was  once  the  leading  aiticle  of 
commerce;  it  is  now  the  fifth  on  the  list.  Atone  time  coffee  was 
by  far  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  exports;  it  is  so  no  longer. 
Tea  is  now  the  chief  product.  The  crop  of  one  year  is  worth 
25,000,000  rupees.  The  cinchona  tree,  from  whose  bark  quinine  is 
made,  is  also  grown  extensively  and  yields  a handsome  profit.  The 
population  numbers  3,007,789.  Of  these  two-thirds  are  Singha- 
lese, 750,000  are  Tamils,  or  Malabars,  200,000  are  Arabs,  18,000  are 
Berbers,  10,000  Malays  and  5,000  are  Europeans.  The  last- 
named  class,  though  the  smallest  numerically,  is  incomparably  the 
most  influential  and  the  most  useful. 

The  Portuguese  discovered  Ceylon  in  1505.  Thirteen  years 
later  they  settled  on  the  island  and  built  forts  to  protect  their  inter- 
ests. The  natives  deemed  it  prudent  to  maintain  friendship  with  a 
people  armed  with  guns  that  could  send  balls  for  leagues  and  then 
break  castles  of  marble  or  iron.  It  was  not  long  till  the  principal 
king  became  a vassal  of  Portugal  and  agreed  to  pay  an  annual 
tribute  of  cinnamon,  rubies,  sapphires  and  elephants.  Within 
eighty  years  after  their  first  visit,  the  Portuguese  were  the  undis- 
puted masters  of  all  the  maritime  provinces.  Meanwhile,  the 


FROM  CEYLON  TO  AUSTRALIA 


263 


followers  of  Xavier  were  busily  engaged  seeking  to  win  the  people 
to  the  Catholic  faith.  In  a few  years  almost  the  whole  population 
professedly  gave  up  idolatry  and  were  baptized.  One  of  the  local 
kings  called  in  the  Dutch  to  aid  in  conquering  and  expelling  the 
Poi’tuguese.  In  return  for  their  assistance,  the  Dutch  were  to  have 
the  sole  trade  in  pepper  and  cinnamon.  The  Dutch  drove  out  the 
Portuguese ; not  content  with  that,  they  made  themselves  masters  of 
the  people  whom  they  came  to  deliver.  Being  Protestants,  they 
undertook  to  bring  all  the  people  to  the  acceptance  of  their  faith. 
No  native  could  hold  office  or  rent  land  who  was  not  a member  of 
some  Protestant  church.  As  a result,  several  hundred  thousand 
people  became  nominal  Christians.  Even  Brahmans  made  a pro- 
fession of  conversion.  The  English  appeared  on  the  scene  in  1589. 
When  war  broke  out  between  England  and  Holland,  in  1705,  the 
Dutch  lost  their  hold  on  Ceylon.  It  was  not  until  1815  that  the 
whole  island  became  a British  possession.  It  is  now  a crown 
colony.  Since  the  advent  of  the  English,  roads  and  railways  have 
been  built,  schools  have  been  established,  and  many  other  improve- 
ments have  been  introduced.  The  English  attitude  toward  religion 
is  that  of  absolute  neutrality.  The  spread  of  the  Gospel  has  been 
left  to  private  enterprise.  The  Baptists  began  work  in  1812;  the 
Wesleyans  in  1814;  the  American  Board  in  1816;  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  in  1818;  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the 
Gospel  in  1840.  At  the  present  time  the  Catholics  number  215,000; 
Protestants,  68,000.  The  missionaries  and  ministers  number  422. 
Notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  done,  one-half  the  population 
are  Buddhists;  500,000  are  Hindus,  and  200,000  are  Mohammedans. 
The  Buddhist  priests  number  6,279.  Most  of  the  people  are 
demon-worshipers.  They  suppose  that  they  are  surrounded  by 
evil  spirits,  who  lurk  behind  rocks  and  trees  seeking  to  do  them 
harm.  They  believe  that  by  flattery  or  force  they  can  compel  the 
gods  to  obey  them. 

At  Colombo  we  took  the  Himalaya  for  Australia.  This  ship 
belongs  to  the  P.  and  O.  Line.  She  is  one  of  the  largest  and 
altogether  the  swiftest  boat  in  the  fleet.  The  first  cabin  is  more 
stylish  than  the  second,  but  is  not  any  more  comfortable.  In  the 
first  the  passengers  are  called  to  their  meals  with  a bugle ; in  the 
second  with  a bell.  The  food  is  the  same.  Some  of  the  richest 
men  on  board  are  in  the  second  cabin ; some  of  the  poorest  are  in 
the  first.  There  are  three  bars,  so  that  no  one  need  go  thirsty.  I 
venture  that  the  profit  on  liquor  exceeds  that  on  freight  or  on  the 
passenger  list.  Concerts  and  sports  help  to  break  up  the  monotony 
and  to  pass  the  time. 


2G4 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Among  the  passengers  is  J.  R.  Mott,  the  General  Secretary  of 
the  World’s  Student  Christian  Federation.  He  states  that  there 
are  organizations  for  Christian  work  in  five  hundred  of  the  leading 
colleges  and  universities  in  the  United  States  and  Canada.  Over 
thirty-three  thousand  students  and  professors  are  united  in  this 
movement.  More  than  thirty  thousand  3'oung  men  have  been  led 
to  accept  Jesus  Christ  as  Lord.  The  study  of  the  Bible  has  been 
promoted.  Not  only  so,  but  seventy  thousand  have  been  trained  to 
work  as  Christian  laymen,  four  thousand  have  been  led  to  enter 
the  ministry,  and  an  equal  number  have  been  led  to  volunteer  for 
work  in  the  foreign  field.  This  movement  has  extended  to  Great 
Britain,  Germany,  Scandinavia,  Turkey,  Syria,  Egypt,  South 
America,  South  Africa,  Ceylon,  India,  China  and  Japan.  He  is 
going  to  Australasia  to  enlist  the  schools  there.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Bowie,  of  Aberdeen,  are  on  the  way  to  the  New  Hebrides  to  carry 
on  the  work  of  Paton  and  Geddie.  Some  are  going  to  the  gold 
fields  of  West  Australia.  Others  are  going  out  seeking  fame  or 
fortune  in  the  great  Southland.  We  have  on  board  some  of  the 
best  and  a few  of  the  worst  people  I have  ever  met.  Two  men  and 
two  women  are  drunk  most  of  the  time.  One  man  was  threatened 
Avith  being  put  in  irons  if  he  did  not  conduct  himself  properly. 

While  we  wei*e  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  equator  the  days 
were  insufferably  hot.  The  heavy  awnings  were  some  protection, 
but  not  much.  As  we  steamed  on  we  found  the  polestar  getting 
lower,  till  it  disappeared  altogether.  We  were  under  a new  sky. 
The  sun  was  in  the  north.  The  farther  south  we  went,  the  cooler 
was  the  atmosphere.  The  Southern  Cross  is  a disappointment.  It 
is  neither  so  large  nor  so  brilliant  as  I expected.  The  albatross 
followed  us  for  days.  What  a graceful  bird  it  is  ! It  seems  to  put 
forth  no  effort  whatever.  Its  wings  are  motionless;  yet  it  ascends 
and  descends,  goes  ahead  or  comes  behind  the  swift  ship.  I have 
read  on  the  voyage  Coleridge’s  “Rime  of  the  Ancient  Mariner,” 
and  after  seeing  the  albatross  can  understand  his  feeling  that  it 
was  “ a hellish  deed  ” to  shoot  such  a bird.  It  was  fitting  that  his 
victim  should  be  hung  about  his  neck  for  daj’s.  The  lesson  of  the 
poem  is  one  that  all  would  do  well  to  take  to  heart. 

“ He  prayeth  well,  who  loveth  well 
Both  man  and  bird  and  beast. 

He  prayeth  best,  who  loveth  best 
All  thing's  both  great  and  small ; 

For  the  dear  God  who  loveth  us, 

He  made  and  loveth  all.” 


BENARES.  INDIA. 


THE  GREAT  MOSQUE,  DELHI,  INDIA. 


FROM  CEYLON  TO  AUSTRALIA 


265 


Ten  days  after  leaving  Colombo  we  entered  King  George’s 
Sound  and  called  at  Albany  to  set  down  passengers  and  take  on  the 
mails.  It  is  at  Albany  that  men  going  to  the  gold  fields  of  Coolgar- 
die  leave  the  ship.  They  go  the  rest  of  the  way  by  rail.  Three 
days  after  leaving  Albany  we  came  to  Adelaide.  As  we  drew  near, 
I was  wondering  if  anyone  would  be  on  the  dock  to  receive  me.  I 
had  sent  no  positive  promise  that  I would  visit  Australia.  I had 
made  up  my  mind  to  go  to  some  hotel,  and  go  to  church  the 
next  morning  and  make  myself  known.  Before  we  dropped  anchor 
a boat  came  out  to  meet  the  ship.  On  the  deck  were  T.  J.  Gore, 
D.  A.  Ewers,  H.  D.  Smith,  and  A.  C.  Rankine.  They  were  waving 
their  hats  and  welcoming  me  to  Australia.  On  the  pier  J.  C.  Dick- 
son and  M.  W.  Green  were  waiting  to  repeat  the  welcome.  Mr. 
Gore  took  me  to  his  own  house  and  made  it  my  home  while  in 
Adelaide,  and  a most  delightful  and  restful  home  it  is. 


XLIII. 


ADELAIDE. 

Adelaide  is  a beautiful  city.  The  streets  are  wide  and  straight, 
and  well  paved.  Provision  has  been  made  for  numerous  parks. 
The  government  buildings,  the  university,  and  the  business  houses 
are  worthy  of  the  capital  of  a large  and  flourishing  colony  like 
South  Australia.  The  homes  remind  one  of  the  stately  and  happy 
homes  of  England,  of  which  Mrs.  Hemans  sang  so  beautifully. 
Schools  and  churches  abound.  No  one  need  grow  here  in  ignor- 
ance, or  be  without  religious  privileges.  On  one  side  of  the  city  is 
a high  range  of  hills,  on  the  other  side  is  the  sea.  All  the  fruits  and 
flowers  that  grow  in  Palestine  grow  here.  Adelaide  has  no  winter. 
The  population  is  given  as  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  thousand. 

We  arrived  on  Saturday.  My  first  Sunday  service  was  with 
the  Unley  Church.  M.  W.  Green  is  the  evangelist.  He  will  be 
remembered  by  many  in  America.  He  visited  many  of  our 
churches  in  the  interest  of  a Bible  College  in  Australia.  His  elo- 
cpient  addresses  will  not  soon  be  forgotten.  He  was  born  in  Man- 
chester, and  emigrated  to  New  Zealand.  He  was  a builder  and 
preacher  for  years.  Because  of  his  gifts  as  a public  speaker,  he 
was  urged  to  give  himself  to  the  ministry  of  the  Word  and  to 
prayer.  He  served  the  people  of  that  colony  in  the  pulpit  and  on 
the  platform  as  a lecturer  on  temperance,  and  in  Parliament.  He 
was  spoken  of  as  “ Green  with  a conscience.”  He  met  in  debate 
and  vanquished  many  a doughty  champion  of  error.  The  church 
that  morning  was  full.  The  singing  was  led  by  a trained  choir, 
and  was  admirable.  In  the  afternoon  the  Sunday-school,  under 
the  accomplished  leadership  of  Mr.  Ernest  Green,  gave  a cantata, 
which  was  so  much  enjoyed  that  its  repetition  was  called  for. 

That  evening  I spoke  in  Grote  Street.  This  is  the  oldest  of  the 
South  Australian  churches.  The  membership  is  about  five  hun- 
dred. The  buildings  are  large  and  convenient.  T.  J.  Gore,  the 
pastor,  was  born  and  raised  in  Kentucky.  He  came  out  here 
twenty-nine  years  ago.  He  has  all  the  virtues  of  his  native  land 
and  of  the  land  of  his  adoption,  and,  so  far  as  I could  see,  the 

vices  of  neither.  His  praises  are  heard  on  all  sides.  I found  only 

266 


ADELAIDE 


2G7 


one  fault — he  spends  too  much  money  on  his  guests.  He  is  so 
obstinate  in  this  that  all  appeals  are  in  vain.  Mrs.  Gore  is  a 
daughter  of  the  lamented  Philip  Santo.  She  is  as  good  and  as 
wise  and  as  efficient  as  her  husband,  and  that  is  saying  much.  The 
singing  of  the  great  audience  was  like  the  sound  of  many  waters. 
It  seemed  to  me  that  everybody  sang.  No  one  slept  or  manifested 
any  sign  of  weariness.  Young  men  and  old  men  were  present  in 
force.  Australia  is  the  first  place  I have  seen  where  the  males  out- 
number the  females  in  the  churches.  Nothing  could  exceed  the 
cordiality  of  the  people.  Hundreds  came  up  to  shake  hands  and 
to  bid  me  welcome.  My  arm  was  wearied,  but  my  spirit  was 
refreshed.  Their  greeting  was  like  that  of  a Texas  or  a Missouri 
convention. 

On  Monday  evening  we  had  a meeting  in  Norwood.  A.  C. 
Rankine  is  in  charge  there.  He  is  an  Australian,  but  was  educated 
in  Lexington.  Many  of  the  students  of  the  Bible  College  will 
remember  him  and  will  be  glad  to  hear  of  his  good  work.  He  began 
in  Norwood  seven  years  ago  with  twenty;  the  church  now  has  three 
hundred  and  fifty  members.  The  building  has  been  enlarged  once 
or  twice.  It  will  have  to  be  enlarged  very  soon,  or  the  church 
must  swarm.  Though  it  was  a week  night,  every  seat  was  full.  The 
people  caught  the  enthusiasm  of  their  leader.  Because  of  his  rep- 
resentations, they  gladly  came  to  hear  of  the  work  in  the  regions 
beyond. 

The  next  evening  the  Unley  Church  had  its  annual  tea-meeting. 
This  is  an  English  institution,  I believe.  The  people  have  tea  at 
six.  As  soon  as  the  tables  are  cleared  the  speaking  begins.  Mr. 
Green  read  the  reports  of  the  year.  Addresses  were  made  by  J. 
Colbourne,  J.  C.  Dickson,  A.  C.  Rankine  and  "William  Burford. 
Mr.  Burford  had  been  the  Sunday-school  superintendent.  The 
programme  was  so  arranged  that  I should  have  all  the  time  I 
wished.  At  all  such  meetings  I have  had  the  “ right  of  way.”  The 
evening  passed  pleasantly.  The  congregation  and  members  of 
other  congregations  and  friends  came  together  to  renew  or  to  form 
acquaintances  and  to  l'ejoice  over  the  progress  of  the  work.  It  was 
a time  for  sociability  and  for  instruction  and  worship. 

On  Wednesday  we  had  a service  at  Hindmarsh.  This  is  the 
second  largest  church  in  Adelaide.  Its  register  contains  the  names 
of  over  four  hundred  members.  H.  D.  Smith  is  the  preacher.  He 
is  the  Secretary  of  the  Foreign  Committee,  and  is  the  friend  and 
advocate  of  every  good  work.  The  night  I was  there  he  was  absent 
at  a wedding.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  people  marry  and  give  in  mar- 


268 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


riage,  no  matter  who  speaks  or  what  the  subject  of  his  speech. 
The  large  audience  was  a proof  of  the  fact  that  the  pastor’s  heart 
is  in  the  cause  of  world-wide  evangelism.  Mr.  Gore  went  with  me 
and  presided.  At  the  close,  the  usual  vote  of  thanks  was  proposed 
and  carried.  An  Australian  audience  would  think  itself  lacking  in 
courtesy  and  kindness  if  this  part  of  a service  was  omitted. 

One  morning  we  went  to  Glenelg  to  call  on  William  Burford. 
He  is  a friend  of  preachers,  and  is  a liberal  contributor  to  every 
worthy  enterprise.  He  is  the  main  support  of  the  work  in  Glenelg. 
He  supports  Nathoo  Lai  in  India,  and  one  of  the  workers  of  the 
China  Inland  Mission.  He  and  his  family  were  preparing  to  start  on 
a European  tour.  They  expect  to  be  gone  a year  or  two.  He  goes 
in  search  of  health.  It  is  hoped  by  thousands  that  he  will  find  it. 
He  talks  of  visiting  America.  I trust  he  will  do  so.  J.  Colbourne 
has  just  taken  the  w7ork  at  Glenelg.  The  church  meets  in  a hall. 
Before  long  it  will  have  a building  of  its  own.  Mr.  Colbourne  was 
born  in  England.  He  wras  a Baptist  when  he  reached  New  Zealand. 
Here  he  fell  in  with  M.  W.  Green  and  was  led  by  him  to  unite  with 
the  Disciples  of  Christ.  He  studied  under  T.  J.  Gore  and  H.  S. 
Earl.  He  says  he  owes  more  to  Mr.  Gore  for  the  gentle  and  Christ- 
like  spirit  which  he  manifested  and  for  his  instruction,  than  to  any 
other  living  man.  He  has  preached  around  Adelaide,  in  Victoria, 
and  in  Sydney. 

Part  of  the  day  was  spent  in  the  home  of  A.  T.  Magarey  on 
Mount  Lofty.  The  name  of  his  father,  Thomas  Magarey,  is  famil- 
iar to  many  in  Europe  and  America.  He  is  a man  of  mark.  In 
any  assembly  he  would  be  picked  out  as  a man  of  exceptional  abil- 
ity. He  did  much  to  plant  and  establish  the  cause  in  the  Col- 
onies. In  recent  years  he  has  left  us  and  joined  another  com- 
munion, much  to  the  regret  of  those  who  know  his  moral  worth 
and  his  valuable  services.  He  has  two  sons  who  are  useful  Chris- 
tian men.  Dr.  S.  J.  Magarey  is  a leading  physician  in  Adelaide. 
He  is  a member  of  Parliament,  and  might  have  been  a member  of 
the  Cabinet.  He  is  an  elder  in  Grote  Street,  and  is  faithful  and 
diligent  in  that  high  office.  A.  T.  Magarey  is  a business  man,  an 
antiquarian,  a promoter  of  exploring  expeditions,  a preacher,  and  I 
know  not  what  besides.  His  week  days  are  full  of  work  and  care. 
He  has  charge  of  two  churches,  and  preaches  twice  every  Sunday. 
He  is  one  of  the  best-informed  and  most  entertaining  men  I have 
met.  As  was  said  of  Burke,  no  one  could  be  with  him  five  minutes 
without  learning  that  he  was  no  ordinary  man.  Mrs.  Magarey  is  a 


PARSES  GIRLS.  KING  OF  SIAM  AND  CHILDREN. 


ADELAIDE 


269 


daughter  of  Col.  Campbell,  of  Bethany.  I knew  her  when  a 
student,  and  was  very  pleased  to  meet  her  in  her  own  home. 

It  was  not  possible  to  speak  for  J.  C.  Dickson.  I met  him  sev- 
eral times,  and  heard  much  about  the  work  the  Lord  is  doing 
through  him.  He  and  Dr.  Yerco  carry  on  the  work  in  North  Ade- 
laide and  in  Prospect  Street.  Dr.  Yerco  is  the  most  distinguished 
physician  in  South  Australia.  Not  only  so,  but  he  is  one  of  the 
most  active  Christians  in  the  colony.  He  manages  his  work  so  that 
he  can  attend  church  three  times  on  Sunday,  and  preach  once  or 
twice,  or  oftener.  He  built  the  chapel  in  North  Adelaide,  and 
rents  it  to  the  church.  He  has  paid  for  a chapel  and  a home  for 
John  Thompson,  who  is  at  work  among  the  Kanakas  in  Queensland. 
I asked  him  how  he  was  able  to  do  so  much  Christian  work.  He 
said  he  saw  his  patients  on  Saturday  and  on  Monday.  They  knew 
that  he  wanted  Sunday  for  other  duties. 

H.  D.  Smith  informed  me  that  we  have  twenty-seven  churches 
in  South  Australia.  In  these  there  is  a total  membership  of  two 
thousand  six  hundred  and  twenty-one.  There  are  seventeen  Sun- 
day-schools, with  one  hundred  and  ninety  teachers,  and  two  thou- 
sand one  hundred  and  forty-one  scholars.  Most  of  the  churches 
have  Endeavor  Societies.  There  are  eight  of  these  churches  north 
of  Adelaide.  G.  D.  Nesi  is  the  evangelist  in  that  district.  Six  are 
south  of  Adelaide.  R.  G.  Cameron  is  the  evangelist  in  charge. 
The  churches  in  South  Australia  contribute  to  the  work  at  home, 
to  John  Thompson,  and  to  Mary  Thompson,  in  Hurda.  They  give 
$1,200  for  Fox-eign  Missions.  They  are  talking  of  sending  another 
worker  to  India.  Hindmarsh  sent  H.  H.  Strutton  to  Poona  to 
work  in  an  undenominational  mission.  Among  the  pioneers  spoken 
of  are  J.  C.  Verco,  W.  H.  Burford,  Philip  Santo,  Dr.  S.  Kidner, 
John  Chambers  and  Henry  Warren. 

At  the  close  of  one  service  several  came  to  me  and  thanked  me 
for  what  1 had  said.  Among  those  was  one  who  said,  “ Do  you 
know  what  I was  thinking  about  all  the  time  you  wei'e  speaking?” 
Several  thoughts  passed  through  my  mind.  Perhaps  he  was  think- 
ing of  making  a handsome  offering  to  the  work.  Or  perhaps  some 
lofty  sentiment  stirred  his  soul.  At  the  very  least  he  was  thinking 
of  something  complimentary  to  say  about  the  address.  Judge  of 
my  surprise  when  he  said,  “ I was  wondering  whether  you  wei'e 
chewing  gum  all  the  time  you  were  speaking.”  He  had  heard  that 
Americans  chewed  gum,  and  supposed  that  I was  no  exception.  I 
left  Adelaide  for  Sydney.  On  my  return  I am  to  deliver  several 
addresses  more.  My  visit  will  last  only  one  month.  I return  on 
the  ship  on  which  I came. 


XLIV. 


FROM  ADELAIDE  TO  SYDNEY. 

Australia  is  a place  of  magnificent  distances.  Sydney  is  over  a 
thousand  miles  from  Adelaide.  Going  by  rail,  one  must  needs  pass 
through  Melbourne.  The  train  service  is  so  arranged  that  passen- 
gers must  rest  in  that  city  for  seven  hours.  On  my  arrival  at  the 
station  I was  surprised  beyond  belief  to  find  a committee  waiting 
for  me.  The  committee  consisted  of  D.  A.  Ewers,  Malcolm 
McLellan,  A.  B.  Maston,  F.  G.  Dunn,  Isaac  Selby,  F.  M.  Lud- 
brook,  Joseph  Pittman,  W.  C.  Thurgood  and  J.  A.  Davies.  They 
took  me  to  the  Coffee  Palace  for  breakfast.  About  forty  men  and 
women  sat  down  and  partook  of  the  smoking  and  savory  viands. 
After  doing  ample  justice  to  the  meat  and  drink  the  speeches  began. 
D.  A.  Ewers,  President  of  the  Missionary  Conference,  presided. 
He  called  upon  A.  B.  Maston  to  speak  as  an  American;  upon  F. 
G.  Dunn,  as  the  representative  of  the  press;  upon  Isaac  Selby,  as 
the  representative  of  the  preachers;  upon  Mrs.  Joseph  Pittman,  as 
the  President  of  the  "Women’s  Conference;  upon  F.  M.  Ludbrook, 
as  the  representative  of  the  Foreign  Missionary  Committee; 
upon  James  Tully,  as  President  of  the  SundajT-school  Union, 
and  upon  F.  McClean,  as  Superintendent  of  the  Chinese  Mission, 
and  upon  Joseph  Pittman  to  lead  in  prayer.  Mr.  Maston  expressed 
a wish,  in  which  all  concurred,  that  more  men  from  America  would 
visit  the  colonies.  He  mentioned  J.  W.  McGarvey  as  one  of  a 
class  that  would  be  particularly  welcome,  and  that  would  do  much 
good.  Mr.  Selby  spoke  of  the  Americans  that  had  spent  some  time 
in  Melbourne,  and  of  the  debt  of  gratitude  which  the  churches  owe 
them.  These  good  men  are  held  in  loving  remembrance.  At  the 
close,  I was  asked  to  say  a few  words.  Being  weary  from  traveling 
all  night  without  sleep,  and  being  taken  unawares,  and  being 
bewildered  by  the  reception  accorded  me,  I tried  to  speak,  but 
could  only  utter  a few  words  in  response.  Out  of  the  abundance  of 
the  heart  the  mouth  speaks.  Out  of  its  superabundance  the  tongue 
stammers.  After  this  performance  was  over,  I was  hurried  off  to 
be  photographed  for  the  public  good.  Then  J.  A.  Davies  took  me 
home  with  him.  He  and  Mrs.  Davies  had  compassion  on  me,  and 

270 


FROM  ADELAIDE  TO  SYDNEY 


271 


put  me  to  bed  for  two  hours.  That  evening  I took  the  train  for 
Sydney.  I left  Melbourne  with  the  understanding  that  I was  to 
return  for  the  Victorian  Conference,  beginning  on  Good  Friday  and 
closing  on  Easter  Monday.  The  conference  is  held  at  this  time 
because  it  is  a holiday  season. 

It  was  nearly  noon  on  Saturday  when  I reached  Sydney.  Here  a 
dozen  men  and  women  were  on  the  platform  to  take  charge  of  me. 
Among  the  number  was  C.  F.  Forscutt.  I knew  him  years  ago 
when  he  was  a student  in  the  College  of  the  Bible.  He  is  now 
Principal  and  proprietor  of  the  Rockdale  College.  He  opened  this 
school  five  years  ago.  He  prepares  young  men  for  business  careers 
and  for  the  university.  Mrs.  Forscutt  looks  after  the  table  and  the 
beds  and  teaches  music  and  some  other  branches.  The  school  is 
flourishing.  The  Principal  preaches  on  Sundays,  but  gives  his  time 
and  strength  to  the  college.  His  home  was  mine  most  of  the 
time  I was  in  Sydney.  The  first  afternoon  he  took  me  in  his  car- 
riage to  see  Botany  Bay.  He  pointed  out  the  spot  where  Captain 
Cook  landed  when  he  discovered  that  part  of  the  continent. 
Botany  Bay  is  a fine  body  of  water,  but  Sydney  Harbor  is  so  much 
larger  and  better  as  a port  that  all  ships  go  that  way. 

On  Sunday  morning  Mr.  Forscutt  took  me  to  the  Enmore 
church.  This  is  the  largest  church  in  the  colony.  It  has  on  its 
muster-rolls  the  names  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  members.  The 
venerable  and  revered  Dr.  Joseph  Kingsbury  presided  at  the  Lord’s 
table.  I was  told  that  he  had  given  two  or  three  fortunes  to  the 
Lord’s  work.  He  is  hale  and  hearty,  an  eloquent  speaker,  marvel- 
ously gifted  in  prayer,  and  manifestly  a deeply  x-eligious  man.  On 
his  snowy  hair  and  beautiful  character,  the  splendors  of  eternity 
are  falling  thick  and  fast.  The  Enmore  church  has  been  without  a 
pastor  for  some  time,  consequently  the  audience  was  not  large. 
There  were  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  present.  After  the  Lord’s 
Supper  I spoke  for  thirty  minutes.  We  went  home  with  John 
Bardsley  to  dinner.  He  is  the  Timothy  Coop  of  New  South 
Wales.  He  is  a prosperous  wholesale  grocer.  He  has  a large 
home  and  a large  heart.  Mrs.  Bardsley  was  born  in  Scotland,  and 
has  the  hospitality  characteristic  of  her  race.  On  Sunday  their 
home  is  open  to  all  comers.  Food  is  provided  in  abundance  and 
served  without  stint.  These  two  good  people  are  unspeakably 
happy  when  their  long  table  has  no  vacant  chair.  In  the  afternoon 
we  went  out  to  the  Public  Domain.  This  is  a favorite  resort  for 
speakei's  of  every  kind.  The  first  speaker  we  heard  was  a woman 
belonging  to  the  Church  of  England.  She  was  preaching  to  a large 


272 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


crowd.  Her  topic  was  the  Words  of  Jesus  on  the  Cross.  Her  spir- 
itual face  and  clear  and  tender  voice  added  emphasis  and  charm  to 
her  words.  Preachers  representing  nearly  all  the  denominations 
were  speaking.  Advocates  of  temperance,  politicians  of  different 
schools,  Socialists  and  Anarchists,  promoters  of  fads  of  every 
variety  had  their  rostrums  and  their  sympathizers  or  opponents. 
Preaching  on  the  streets  and  in  the  parks  is  very  common.  That 
evening  I spoke  in  the  building  just  purchased  by  the  church  in  the 
city.  It  was  built  by  the  Free  Thought  people,  but  they  were  not 
able  to  pay  for  it.  The  church  bought  it  for  less  than  half  what  it 
cost.  It  is  a tine  building.  The  auditorium  will  seat  about  800. 
There  is  a large  basement  that  can  be  used  in  many  ways.  There 
are  all  the  separate  rooms  needed  for  Sunday-school  and  other 
purposes.  The  building  is  new,  and  has  all  modern  comforts  and 
conveniences.  This  church,  like  the  church  in  Enmore,  was  with- 
out a pastor  when  I was  there.  I learned  that  George  T.  Walden 
was  on  his  way  from  London  to  take  the  work  at  Enmore,  and  that 
P.  A.  Dickson  was  coming  from  Brisbane,  in  Queensland,  to 
Sydney.  Both  these  men  are  known  by  many  in  America.  Under 
their  ministry  these  churches  ax*e  certain  to  enter  upon  careers  of 
renewed  prosperity. 

On  Monday  the  women  of  New  South  Wales  held  their  annual 
conference.  They  are  not  organized  into  auxiliaries  as  are  the 
women  at  home.  But  they  have  an  organization  to  whose  funds 
the  members  are  asked  to  contribute  a penny  a week.  They  do 
something  for  home  missions.  They  do  temperance  and  charitable 
work  as  well.  Mrs.  Clapham  presided  and  did  her  duty  gracefully 
and  acceptably.  Reports  were  read  showing  what  progress  had 
been  made  in  the  different  departments.  Business  was  transacted, 
papers  were  read,  and  appropriate  songs  were  sung.  At  night  the 
house  was  well  filled.  I was  asked  to  tell  something  about  the  way 
the  women  in  America  did  so  much.  I did  so,  and  urged  them  to 
send  some  one  of  their  own  number  to  India  or  China.  In  no  other 
way  can  they  do  so  much  to  help  the  work  at  home.  I think  they 
will  do  this. 

The  next  morning  Mrs.  Forscutt  and  her  sister  took  me  to  see 
Sydney  Harbor.  William  Clapham  and  Robert  Gilmore  went  with 
us.  They  are  two  faithful  preachers.  They  know  the  place  and 
the  history  of  the  work  in  the  colonies,  and  were  therefore  intelli- 
gent and  agreeable  companions.  Sydney  Harbor  is  said  to  be  the 
largest  and  grandest  harbor  on  the  globe.  The  fleets  and  navies  of 
all  nations  could  find  room  and  shelter  in  its  ample  waters.  The 


TEMPLE  IN  SOUTHEKN  INDIA,  JUJTUB — MINAlt,  DELHI,  INDIA, 


FROM  ADELAIDE  TO  SYDNEY 


273 


heads  are  high  and  bold,  and  are  a mile  apart.  If  one  should 
undertake  to  walk  round  the  bay  he  would  have  to  travel  two 
hundred  miles.  All  the  way  down  the  guides  pointed  out  the 
palatial  homes  of  the  city  magnates.  On  the  highest  point  is  the 
Catholic  College  and  the  palace  of  Cardinal  Moran.  This  harbor 
is  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  It  is  as  well  worth  seeing  as 
Niagara  or  Mt.  Everest.  We  steamed  down  for  about  seven  miles. 
When  we  came  to  the  swell  of  the  ocean  we  turned  aside  to  Manly 
Beach.  We  crossed  the  narrow  neck  of  land  and  came  to  the 
ocean.  Mrs.  Forscutt  had  brought  luncheon  along.  We  sat  down 
under  the  shade  of  a tree  and  partook  of  a bounteous  repast. 
Towards  evening  we  started  towards  home.  We  saw  the  magnifi- 
cent harbor  again.  It  grew  on  us  as  we  studied  it.  This  day  will 
ever  stand  out  in  my  mind  as  a mountain  peak  stands  out  from  a 
plain.  We  parted  from  Mrs.  Forscutt  with  many  expressions  of 
sincere  gratitude  for  the  picnic  she  gave  us.  We  took  tea  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gole.  He  is  the  Secretary  of  the  Foreign  Mission 
Committee,  and  a very  genial  and  intelligent  man.  At  night  there 
was  a union  service  in  the  Enmore  Church  in  the  interest  of  world- 
wide evangelism.  The  audience  was  not  so  large  as  I had  expected, 
but  those  that  did  come  seemed  deeply  interested.  The  next  morn- 
ing my  friends  of  the  day  before  took  me  to  see  the  Botanical  Gar- 
dens. There  is  an  endless  variety  of  tropical  trees  and  flowers. 
The  site  slopes  down  to  the  bay.  This  is  one  source  of  their  great 
charm.  Sydney  is  a century  old.  It  is  laid  out  like  a European 
city.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked.  This  is  especially  true 
of  the  oldest  part.  It  is  a substantial  city,  and  has  a population 
of  four  hundred  and  twenty-one  thousand  and  thirty.  That  even- 
ing I took  the  train  for  Melbourne. 

• The  first  church  established  by  the  Disciples  of  Christ  in  New 
South  Wales  dates  back  to  1851.  The  leading  men  at  that  time 
were  Albert  Griffin,  George  Taylor,  Henry  Mitchell,  Joseph  Kings- 
bury and  Edward  and  David  Lewis.  Dr.  Kingsbury  told  me  of  his 
convei’sion.  He  heard  a man  preaching  in  the  Park.  He  did  not 
know  his  name,  but  he  presented  the  truth  so  clearly  that  all 
doubts  were  removed.  He  went  home  in  rapture  and  kissed  his 
wife,  and  said:  “Darling,  I have  found  that  for  which  I have  been 
seeking  for  ten  years.”  He  began  to  preach  as  soon  as  he  was  bap- 
tized. The  church  was  spoken  of  as  “Kingsbury’s  Mob.”  There 
are  now  twenty  chux-ches  in  the  colony,  with  a total  membership 
of  two  thousand  and  forty-two.  Thei*e  are  seventeen  Sunday- 
schools.  In  these  there  are  eighty-eight  teachers  and  eight 


274 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


hundred  and  ninety-four  scholars.  The  number  of  preachers  is 
given  as  three.  The  churches  are  not  growing  as  one  could  wish. 
In  the  absence  of  a sufficient  number  of  able  and  educated  men  to 
give  themselves  wholly  to  the  ministry,  it  is  difficult  to  see  how 
they  can  grow  in  numbers  and  in  spiritual  power.  Our  churches 
in  America  learned  this  lesson  fifty  years  ago. 


XLV. 


THE  VICTORIA  MISSIONARY  CONFERENCE. 

The  first  day  of  the  Victoria  Missionary  Conference  was  occu- 
pied by  the  women.  They  met  on  Wednesday  in  Swanston  Street 
Chapel  to  transact  business  and  to  render  a vei'y  interesting  pro- 
gramme. They  are  organized  in  the  same  way,  and  for  the  same 
purposes,  as  the  women  of  New  South  Wales.  They  assist  the  cause 
of  temperance;  do  relief  work  such  as  is  done  by  Dorcas  societies; 
visit  prisons  and  hospitals,  and  contribute  to  the  support  of  the 
evangelists  in  the  home  field.  The  young  ladies  are  organized  into 
bands.  Last  year  the  women  gave  $380  to  Home  Missions.  In  ten 
years  they  collected  and  disbursed  $3,225.  Mrs.  Joseph  Pittman  is 
the  Acting  President  and  Miss  Emma  Hill  is  the  Secretary.  They 
are  enthusiastic  and  efficient  workers.  Mrs.  Antoinette  K.  Thur- 
good,  of  Pittsburg,  is  the  perpetual  Honorary  President.  She  was 
the  first  to  move  in  the  matter  of  an  organization,  and  keeps  in 
touch  with  the  society,  though  so  far  away.  She  is  held  in  the  very 
highest  esteem  by  all  for  her  worth  and  work. 

Thursday  was  devoted  to  temperance.  By  all  accounts  it  was  a 
field  day  for  this  most  worthy  cause.  The  large  auditorium  was 
comfortably  filled  during  the  day;  at  night  it  was  packed.  John 
Barnacle  and  W.  J.  Phillips  were  the  leading  spirits.  At  the  even- 
ing service  an  address  was  made  by  a man  who  has  been  on  the  plat- 
form as  a temperance  advocate  for  over  half  a century.  He  is  yet 
hale  and  hearty.  The  children  gave  an  exercise  that  was  greatly 
enjoyed.  The  principal  address  was  given  by  A.  R.  Edgar,  a Wes- 
leyan minister  engaged  in  rescue  work.  He  and  his  remarks  called 
forth  unbounded  applause.  In  most  of  the  churches  in  Melbourne 
and  round  about  there  are  Bands  of  Hope. 

The  Conference  proper  began  its  sittings  on  Good  Friday.  The 
address  of  the  President,  D.  A.  Ewers,  was  brief  and  pithy,  and 
was  well  received.  He  reviewed  the  work  of  the  year,  and  called 
upon  the  churches  to  raise  the  standard  of  giving,  and  to  do  more 
in  every  direction.  Though  times  are  hard,  he  urged  that  all  should 
take  heart  and  hope,  and  make  greater  sacrifices,  and  put  forth 

greater  efforts.  I caught  two  of  his  ringing  sentences:  “Any 

275 


276 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


so-called  Restoration  of  Primitive  Christianity  which  does  not  prom- 
inently develop  the  spirit  of  missionary  self-sacrifice  is  deficient  in 
its  most  vital  element,  however  sound  and  orthodox  it  may  be  oth- 
erwise.” “The  avowed  and  supreme  reason  for  our  existence  as 
a Conference  is  the  extension  of  missionary  work  in  order  to  the 
salvation  of  souls.”  The  Secretary,  Malcolm  McLellan,  had  the 
Annual  Report  printed  and  distributed  in  advance.  It  was  not  read 
as  a whole  and  referred  to  committees,  as  at  home.  Each  para- 
graph was  read,  and  discussed  separately.  Most  of  the  speakers 
were  not  evangelists.  The  discussions  were  more  protracted  than 
in  our  conventions  in  America.  Three  men  had  been  kept  in  the 
field  throughout  the  year.  Their  names  are:  W.  D.  Little,  Thomas 
Hager,  and  G.  H.  Browne.  They  were  present  and  supplemented 
the  report  with  verbal  statements.  The  whole  amount  raised  by  the 
churches  for  Home  Missions  was  $2,483.  The  year  closed  with  a 
deficit,  but  it  was  so  small  that  no  one  was  distressed  by  it.  One 
evening  there  were  several  addresses  on  Home  Missions.  D.  M. 
McCrackett  spoke  on  “ The  Author  of  the  Gospel;  ” W.  D.  Little, 
on  “The  Definition  of  the  Gospel;”  Isaac  Selby  on  “The  Object 
and  Power  of  the  Gospel;  ” and  Joseph  Pittman  on  “ The  Condi- 
tions and  Promises  of  the  Gospel.”  The  Conference  has  under 
consideration  the  establishment  of  a Church  Extension  Fund.  A. 
B.  Maston  offered  to  visit  all  the  churches  in  Victoria  during  the 
year  in  the  interest  of  missions  on  condition  that  his  traveling 
expenses  were  paid.  He  is  the  manager  of  the  Austral  Publishing 
Company,  and  preaches  on  Sundays.  He  is  not  a millionaire,  and 
if  he  did  not  have  a great  soul  and  a good  wife,  he  could  not  make 
such  a generous  tender  of  service. 

The  report  of  the  Victoria  Biblical  Institute  was  discussed  at 
considerable  length.  The  Principal,  J.  Iv.  Henshelwood,  stated  that 
there  were  thirty-two  young  men  enrolled;  of  these  only  one  is  pre- 
paring for  the  ministry.  He  made  an  eloquent  appeal  on*  behalf  of 
the  Institute.  The  discussion  was  somewhat  acrimonious.  Unfor- 
tunately, the  Principal  does  not  command  the  undivided  confidence 
and  support  of  the  brethren.  It  is  clear  that  the  Colonies  should 
be  preparing  a larger  number  of  consecrated  young  men  to  preach 
the  Gospel.  Several  religious  bodies  have  built  schools  near  the 
University,  and  so  get  the  advantage  of  that  great  institution.  The 
reports  bearing  upon  the  hymn-book,  on  temperance,  and  on  Sun- 
day-school work,  were  read  and  emphasized. 

The  election  of  officers  occupied  a whole  afternoon.  Nomina- 
tions were  made  in  open  Conference.  When  the  ticket  was  com- 


1.  T.  J.  Gore.  Adelaide.  2.  A.  C.  Rankin.  Adelaide. 

4.  Mrs.  J.  A.  Davies,  Melbourne.  3.  J.  A.  Davies,  Melbourne. 

5.  Isaac  Selby.  Melbourne.  6.  Dr.  Joseph  Yerco.  Adelaide. 

AUSTRALIAN  FRIENDS. 


THE  VICTORIA  MISSIONARY  CONFERENCE. 


277 


plete  the  balloting  began.  They  are  familiar  with  our  method  of 
having  a special  committee  to  nominate  officers,  but  they  prefer 
their  own,  and  desire  no  change.  To  many  this  is  the  most  inter- 
esting part  of  the  programme.  Nevertheless,  it  is  a trifle  monoto- 
nous and  wearisome  to  one  accustomed  to  see  a ticket  elected  in  as 
many  minutes  as  here  it  requires  hours.  As  business  increases,  and 
time  becomes  more  precious,  some  more  expeditious  way  will  be 
adopted. 

One  sitting  was  devoted  to  foreign  missions.  Miss  Mary  Thomp- 
son sent  a report  and  a letter  to  be  read.  G.  L.  Wharton  sent  an 
address.  Miss  Thompson  went  from  Melbourne.  She  was  a mem- 
ber of  the  Collingwood  Church.  Milner  Black  was  the  preacher  in 
charge  at  the  time.  It  was  largely  thi’ough  him  that  she  wras  led  to 
volunteer.  John  Thompson  sent  an  account  of  his  work  among  the 
Kanakas  in  Queensland.  The  Kanakas  are  natives  of  the  islands  in 
the  South  Seas.  They  have  been  brought  to  Australia  to  work  on 
the  sugar  plantations.  Mr.  Thompson  has  been  engaged  in  this 
work  for  eight  years.  Half  of  the  time  he  has  worked  at  his  own 
expense.  He  has  led  seventy-three  to  Christ.  He  reports  thirty- 
three  meetings  in  the  district  each  week.  Recently  four  have  gone 
out  as  missionaries.  One  was  sent  to  the  New  Hebrides  and  three 
to  the  Solomon  Group.  Ferdinand  Pittman  gave  a racy  account  of 
his  experience  as  a worker  among  these  people.  He  spoke  in  high 
praise  of  the  faith  and  zeal  of  the  converts.  The  Chinese  Mission 
School  gave  an  exercise.  This  school  is  under  the  superintendence 
of  F.  McClean.  Sam  Ah  Wong  gave  an  address.  It  fairly  bristled 
with  good  points.  No  other  address  was  more  vigorously  applauded. 
The  Conference  raised  $1,214  for  Foreign  Missions  in  the  year. 

The  Conference  Essay  was  written  and  read  by  F.  G.  Dunn.  His 
theme  was  “Our  Position  and  Mission.”  He  set  forth  the  things 
that  are  most  surely  believed  amongst  us.  He  alluded  to  the  com- 
munion and  money  questions,  taking  the  ground  held  by  many  in 
the  Colonies.  He  tiled  his  objections  against  the  Endeavor  Society. 
He  found  fault  with  the  pledge,  and  with  associate  membership. 
In  the  discussion  that  followed  some  favored  the  essay  throughout, 
and  expressed  a wish  that  it  might  be  published  as  an  authoritative 
statement  of  what  the  Disciples  of  Christ  believe  and  teach.  Oth- 
ers declared  that  the  essay,  as  a whole,  did  not  embody  their  con- 
victions. The  Endeavor  cause  had  its  champions.  All  agreed  that 
the  essay  was  an  able  production.  The  author  is  the  editor  of  the 
Australian  Christian  Standard.  He  is  a man  of  scholarly  tastes 
and  wields  a trenchant  pen.  Whoever  crosses  swords  with  him  will 


278 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


find  a foeman  worthy  of  his  steel.  The  Conference  Sermon  was 
preached  by  Isaac  Selby.  He  spoke  on  “ The  Kingdom  of  God.” 
He  took  the  position  that  the  kingdom  of  God  was  historically  man- 
ifested in  three  forms:  As  the  kingdom  of  Israel,  as  the  Church  of 

Christ  on  earth,  and  as  the  Church  triumphant.  Mr.  Selby  is  the 
pastor  of  the  Lygon  Street  Church.  He  is  a speaker  of  marvelous 
fluency.  Ho  spent  several  years  on  the  Free  Thought  platform.  He 
has  been  with  us  seven  years.  He  knows  why  he  is  where  he  is. 
He  talks  of  visiting  America.  If  he  comes  he  will  be  warmly 
received.  Mrs.  Selby  was  reared  a Catholic.  She,  too,  has  been  on 
the  platform  as  an  advocate  of  Free  Thought  principles,  and  as  an 
opponent  of  the  faith  in  which  she  was  born.  She  has  the  wit  of 
the  Irish  race.  A visit  to  their  home  is  an  event,  and  is  sure  to  be 
followTed  by  many  sunny  memories. 

Monday  was  wisely  given  up  to  a picnic.  But  even  at  the  annual 
picnic  the  Anglo-Saxon  love  of  religious  discussion  was  manifested. 
A wagon  was  used  as  a platform.  A chairman  was  appointed  and 
rules  adopted.  The  Essay  and  Sermon  were  discussed  in  all  their 
bearings.  After  the  brethren  had  exhausted  these  subjects,  one  or 
two  men  came  forward  to  exploit  their  pet  fads.  I listened  for  a 
time,  and  then  turned  aside  to  see  some  girls  skip.  The  graceful 
skipping  of  the  girls  was  more  edifying  than  the  advocacy  of  some- 
novel  and  inconsequential  negations.  Bodily  exercise  profits  little,, 
but  some  religious  controvei'sies  profit  nothing. 

I blush  to  think  of  the  number  of  speeches  I made  in  the  Con- 
ference. Every  sitting  some  one  wanted  to  hear  from  me.  The 
audience  was  pleased  to  listen  to  all  I had  to  say.  I do  not  suppose 
that  every  soul  present  believed  every  word  I said;  in  fact,  one  or 
two  told  me  that  they  did  not.  But  I am  convinced  that  on  the 
points  of  difference  the  majority  of  the  people  were  with  me.  In 
any  event,  I can  bear  witness  that  at  no  convention  anywhere  have 
I been  listened  to  more  sympathetically  or  with  more  demonstra- 
tions of  appi'oval.  I was  told  that  in  Australia  there  is  no  opposi- 
tion to  missions  or  to  missionary  societies.  The  most  conservative 
believe  in  both  as  heartily  as  any  others.  The  conservatism  that 
exists  here  operates  in  other  directions.  As  most  that  1 had  to  say 
related  to  the  evangelization  of  the  world,  I had  the  moral  support 
of  all.  But  there  were  those  who  wanted  to  know  what  the  breth- 
ren in  America  held  on  the  points  that  are  in  dispute  here.  After 
hearing  all  I had  to  say,  the  Swanston  Street  Church,  the  most  con- 
servative church  in  the  colony,  gave  me  a call.  When  the  ortho- 


THE  VICTORIA  MISSIONARY  CONFERENCE. 


279 


doxy  of  the  American  brethren  was  challenged,  I pointed  to  this 
call  as  the  most  triumphant  refutation  imaginable. 

On  Tuesday  evening  the  cantata,  entitled  “Jacob  and  Esau,” 
was  rendered  by  three  hundred  voices,  under  the  leadership  of  Fer- 
dinand Pittman.  The  audience  filled  the  large  building,  and  hun- 
dreds were  turned  away.  The  cantata  closed  the  Conference. 


XLYI. 


A BRIEF  CAMPAIGN  IN  MELBOURNE  AND  VICINITY. 

A special  committee  arranged  a series  of  meetings  for  me  in 
and  about  Melbourne.  On  Tuesday  evening  I went  to  Doncaster. 
This  is  the  home  of  D.  A.  Ewers.  He  is  the  minister  of  the  church, 
editor  of  the  Pioneer , and  the  friend  and  champion  of  every 
worthy  enterprise.  His  friends  think  he  is  doing  too  much.  That 
evening  the  Mission  Band  invited  the  officers  of  the  church  to  take 
tea  with  me  in  the  vestry.  After  tea  we  had  a service  in  the  chapel. 
Doncaster  Mission  Band  supports  Jeremiah  in  Hurda.  Some  of 
them  wish  he  had  a more  cheerful  name.  But  if  they  saw  his  bright 
face  and  heard  his  hopeful  words,  they  would  be  satisfied.  The 
next  evening  there  was  a meeting  at  Cheltenham.  This  is  another 
suburb  with  a prosperous  church  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  mem- 
bers. G.  B.  Moysey  is  the  evangelist.  He  is  a man  of  ability  and  a 
diligent  student.  The  meeting  was  well  advertised.  The  people 
came  out  to  hear  what  I had  to  say  about  world-wide  evangelism. 
On  Thursday  night  it  was  arranged  that  I should  visit  the  Chinese 
Mission  School.  F.  McClean  is  the  superintendent.  The  register 
contains  thirty-five  names;  of  these  five  are  Christians.  There  is 
a teacher  for  each  pupil.  The  class  meets  three  times  a week.  The 
superintendent  read  a brief  and  cordial  address  of  welcome.  Short 
addresses  were  made  by  Thonias  Hager,  F.  M.  Ludbrook  and  Isaac 
Selby.  There  was  a Bible  lesson,  and  then  a lesson  in  English.  The 
boys  prepared  refreshments  for  the  large  company  present.  This 
school  is  one  of  the  most  Christlike  and  encouraging  things  I have 
seen  in  Australia.  The  boys  write  home  and  tell  their  parents  and 
friends  of  what  the  church  is  doing  for  them.  The  people  at  home 
will  get  a better  conception  of  the  spirit  of  Christianity  than  they 
would  otherwise.  The  missionaries  will  find  that  their  lives  and 
property  are  more  secure,  and  their  work  more  fruitful,  because  of 
the  work  done  in  this  upper  room  in  Lygon  Street. 

The  next  day  there  were  two  services.  The  women  met  in 
Swanston  Street  and  wanted  an  address.  I spoke  to  them  about 
the  way  the  sisters  in  America  are  organized  for  missionary  work, 

and  told  them  of  what  they  have  done  and  are  doing.  1 urged 

280 


MAORI  WARRIOR. 


A BRIEF  CAMPAIGN  IN  MELBOURNE  AND  VICINITY. 


281 


them  to  effect  a similar  organization  in  the  colonies.  That  night 
there  was  a service  in  North  Fitzroy.  The  audience,  the  singing 
and  the  attention  were  all  that  could  be  desired.  Saturday  was 
observed  as  a holiday.  John  A.  Davies  took  Messrs.  Maston,  Selby, 
McLellan  and  myself  to  Ferntree  Gully  and  Black  Spur.  He 
wished  me  to  see  something  of  the  Australian  bush  and  ferns  and 
big  trees.  After  a ride  of  four  hours  in  the  train  we  took  a wagon 
and  rode  for  twenty  miles  through  the  primeval  forest.  The  trees 
are  tall  but  not  as  large  as  those  in  Gippsland  or  as  those  in 
California,  but  they  are  large  enough.  The  fern-trees  are  exceed- 
ingly beautiful.  We  saw  tens  of  thousands  of  them.  The  day  was 
delightfully  spent.  Our  host  insisted  on  paying  all  expenses.  On 
the  way  home  we  passed  a hearty  vote  of  thanks  to  him  for  his 
kindness.  As  opportunity  afforded  I saw  the  public  institutions  of 
the  city.  Mr.  Selby  took  me  to  see  the  Zoological  Gardens  and  the 
University.  We  saw  the  kangaroo,  the  emu,  the  wild  dog,  and 
many  of  the  birds  belonging  to  this  continent.  He  showed  me  the 
ornithorhynchus.  This  is  one  of  the  missing  links  in  the  Darwinian 
system.  It  lays  eggs  and  suckles  its  young.  It  is  partly  bird  and 
partly  mammal  and  party  reptile.  Mr.  Davies  took  me  to  see  the 
Library,  the  Art  Gallery,  the  Exposition  Buildings  and  the  Aqua- 
rium. From  the  main  tower  of  the  Exposition  Buildings  we  saw 
the  city  in  all  its  magnitude  and  glory,  and  the  fertile  country  round 
about,  and  Port  Philip  in  the  distance.  Mr.  Dunn  took  me  to  see 
the  Botanical  Gardens.  These  institutions  are  worthy  of  “ won- 
derful Melbourne.” 

Sunday  morning  Mrs.  Davies  drove  me  to  Collingwood.  This  is 
the  home  of  Mary  Thompson.  Ferdinand  Pittman  is  in  charge  of 
the  work.  Collingwood  has  the  finest  building  in  the  city,  but  it  is 
heavily  burdened  with  debt.  A.  B.  Maston  was  present  and  pre- 
sided, and,  after  service,  took  a number  of  us  home  to  dinner.  In 
the  afternoon  I spoke  at  North  Carlton,  and  in  the  evening  at 
Swanston  Street.  Sunday  was  a good  day.  At  all  the  services  I 
had  “liberty”  in  speaking.  The  right  words  to  express  my 
thoughts  came  at  my  call.  The  eager  and  rapt  attention  was  an 
inspiration.  The  next  morning  I called  to  see  T.  H.  Jennings.  He 
was  in  Bethany  College  in  my  time.  He  and  Mrs.  Jennings  and 
their  daughter  made  my  short  stay  very  pleasant.  He  attended  all 
the  meetings  and  helped  me  much  by  his  presence  and  interest. 
That  night  I went  to  New  Market.  John  Morris  and  his  good  wife 
are  from  Dundee.  He  manufactures  shoes  on  a large  scale,  and 
preaches  for  the  church.  The  singing  was  excellent,  even  for  Aus- 


282 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


tralia,  and  that  is  saying  much.  On  Tuesday  morning  I visited  the 
mission  training-school  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Warren.  They  have  ten 
young  ladies  in  the  class,  and  thirteen  have  gone  out.  They  are  in 
China,  Japan  and  India.  This  work  is  a work  of  faith  and  love. 
The  motto  is,  “ My*God  shall  supply  all  your  needs  according  to 
his  riches  of  glory.”  From  the  first  there  has  been  no  debt  and 
no  lack  of  any  good  thing.  Mrs.  Warren  and  her  pupils  know  how 
to  sing  and  how  to  pray.  They  pray  for  the  workers  by  name.  They 
correspond  with  them,  and  so  keep  in  touch  with  them  and  their 
work.  In  the  evening  I went  out  to  Brighton  with  Dr.  Ludbrook 
to  tea.  The  large  parlor  was  full  of  church  people.  They  came  to 
meet  and  talk  with  me,  as  I could  not  speak  in  that  suburb.  Dr. 
Ludbrook  is  a cousin  of  Sydney  and  Milner  Black.  His  mother  is 
a daughter  of  the  sainted  Mr.  Wallis,  of  Nottingham,  England. 
After  tea  we  went  to  North  Melbourne.  D.  M.  McCrackett  is  the 
minister  here.  As  a result  of  his  enthusiasm  and  efforts  we  had  a 
good  audience  and  one  of  the  best  meetings  in  the  series.  On 
Wednesday  night  all  the  churches  came  together  for  a grand  fare- 
well. An  hour  before  this  service  those  especially  interested  in 
the  evangelization  of  the  world  met  for  a conference.  Many  ques- 
tions were  asked  and  answered.  At  eight  o’clock  W.  C.  Craigie, 
the  new  President  of  the  Conference,  took  the  chair.  After  sing- 
ing and  reading  of  the  Scriptures,  Joseph  Pittman  led  in  prayer. 
The  chairman  made  a short  talk,  and  then  called  on  Brethren  Dunn, 
Ewers,  Moysey,  Selby,  Maston,  Davies,  Martin  and  Ludbrook. 
Mrs.  Maston  and  Mrs.  Ludbrook  spoke  for  the  women.  Miss  Nel- 
lie McClelland  and  Mrs.  William  Wilson  sang  solos,  and  added 
greatly  to  the  joy  of  the  feast.  The  speeches  were  kind  and  com- 
plimentary. One  of  the  speakers  said  they  did  not  all  subscribe  to 
everything  I said,  but  the  points  of  difference  were  few  and  of 
small  moment  when  compared  with  those  on  which  we  were  all 
agreed.  A vote  of  thanks  to  the  brethren  in  America,  for  enabling 
me  to  make  this  visit,  was  passed.  Nor  was  this  all.  A generous 
sum  of  money  was  handed  me  toward  the  expense  of  the  trip.  The 
next  morning  I left  Melbourne  for  Ballarat.  A number  of  brethren 
came  down  to  the  train.  I recall  the  names  of  C.  G.  Lawson,  T. 
S.  and  Robert  Lyall,  A.  B.  Maston,  F.  G.  Dunn,  Isaac  Selby,  W.  J. 
Phillips,  W.  C.  Thurgood,  T.  II.  Jennings,  M.  McLellan,  John 
Morris,  D.  M.  McCrackett,  W.  C.  Craigie,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  J.  A. 
Davies.  Mr.  Dunn  gave  me  enough  books  to  read  till  I should 
reach  London. 

All  the  time  I was  in  Melbourne,  the  home  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 


A BRIEF  CAMPAIGN  IN  MELBOURNE  AND  VICINITY 


283 


Davies  was  mine.  No  weary  pilgrim  could  wish  to  fall  into  better 
hands.  Mr.  Davies  was  born  in  Wales.  He  was  a member  of  the 
church  in  New  York  when  U.  C.  Brewer  was  pastor.  He  is  now  a 
prosperous  merchant  miller.  Mrs.  Davies  was  born  in  the  colonies 
and  educated  in  Scotland.  Their  home  was  to  me  like  rivers  of 
water  in  a dry  place,  as  the  shadow  of  a great  rock  in  a weary  land. 
They  went  with  me  to  all  the  meetings  and  paid  all  expenses.  Not 
a day  passed  that  they  did  not  present  me  with  a book  or  some 
other  object  of  value.  Their  generosity  reminded  me  of  the 
words,  “ All  that  I have  is  thine.”  The  Lord  bless  them  and  keep 
them.  The  Lord  make  his  face  to  shine  upon  them  and  be  gra- 
cious to  them.  The  Lord  lift  up  the  light  of  his  countenance  upon 
them  and  give  them  peace.  The  hospitality  of  the  people  was 
boundless.  My  limits  will  not  permit  me  to  mention  the  names  of 
those  who  fed  me  and  ministered  to  my  needs.  But  if  I forget 
their  kindness,  may  my  right  hand  forget  its  cunning. 

The  work  in  Melbourne  began  in  1853.  John  Ingram,  T.  S. 
Lyall  and  H.  G.  Picton  and  their  wives  met  to  break  bread.  After 
six  months  they  moved  to  Prahran.  Here  they  worshiped  in  a tent 
and  in  a brickyard.  The  next  year  they  returned  to  Melbourne. 
They  met  in  a building  down  a narrow  passage.  The  preachers 
announced  the  meeting,  and  sat  down  to  wait  for  an  audience.  One 
evening  the  hour  passed  and  no  one  came.  Suddenly  many  foot- 
steps were  heard  approaching.  The  pi*eachers  waited  anxiously  for 
their  hearers,  when  in  marched  two  goats.  They  looked  up  and 
said:  “ Ma,  ma.”  The  preachers  laughed  heartily,  and  decided 
not  to  preach.  There  are  now  twenty-seven  churches  in  and  about 
Melbourne,  with  3,309  members.  There  are  fifty-nine  country 
churches  with  an  aggregate  membership  of  1,816.  Robert  Service 
was  a pillar  in  the  church  for  twenty-five  years.  One  of  his  sons 
has  been  Premier  of  Victoria. 


XL  VII. 


FROM  MELBOURNE  TO  THE  SHIP. 

Ballarat  is  a prosperous  city  with  a population  of  forty  thou- 
sand. It  was  here  that  gold  was  discovered  in  1851.  The  output 
of  gold  in  Victoria  since  that  time  considerably  exceeds  a billion 
dollars;  the  output  of  all  Australasia  exceeds  two  billions.  Bal- 
larat has  had  many  public-spirited  citizens.  The  monuments  of 
their  liberality  are  seen  on  all  sides.  They  made  their  money  easily 
and  spent  it  generously.  Charles  Martin  met  me  at  the  train.  He 
was  born  in  England,  and  has  been  in  Ballarat  since  1857.  He  has 
been  a teacher  in  the  public  schools.  His  pupils  are  in  all  parts  of 
the  world.  He  is  now  on  the  retired  list  and  receives  a pension. 
He  preaches  for  one  of  the  churches  in  the  city.  As  he  advances 
in  life,  he  thinks  more  and  more  of  the  lines  of  Trench: 

“I  say  to  thee,  do  thou  repeat 
To  the  first  man  thou  mayest  meet, 

In  lane,  highway,  or  open  street, 

That  he,  and  we,  and  all  men  move 
Under  a canopy  of  love, 

As  broad  as  the  blue  sky  above. 

And  ere  thou  leave  him,  say  thou  this, 

Yet  one  word  more  : They  only  miss 
The  winning  of  that  perfect  bliss 
Who  will  not  count  it  true  that  love — 

Blessing,  not  cursing — rules  above.” 

As  I arrived  early,  my  guide  took  me  to  the  Art  Museum  and  to 
several  of  the  mines.  The  ground  under  Ballarat  is  honeycombed. 
The  mining  proceeds  and  the  supply  of  gold  is  as  great  as  ever.  In 
the  evening  we  had  a service  in  the  Dawson  Street  Chapel.  After 
an  hour’s  address  many  said  they  were  surprised  when  I stopped; 
they  wished  I had  talked  for  another  hour.  There  are  two 
churches  in  Ballarat;  both  are  weak.  It  would  be  well  if  they 
could  unite.  I made  the  acquaintance  of  George  Morris,  a leading 
merchant  and  an  elder  in  the  church.  He  shares  in  the  preaching. 
The  next  morning  we  visited  the  School  of  Mines.  The  principal 
spared  neither  time  nor  pains  to  explain  everything.  He  took  us 
thi’ough  a mine  and  showed  us  how  the  quartz  was  obtained. 
Then  he  showed  us  how  it  was  crushed  and  how  the  gold  was  col- 

284 


FROM  MELBOURNE  TO  THE  SHIP 


285 


lected.  He  took  us  through  the  Museum  and  showed  us  its  con- 
tents. There  are  under  a glass  case  models  of  the  great  nuggets 
that  have  been  found  at  different  times.  He  told  us  that  some 
burglar  had  broken  in  and  carried  off  similar  models,  thinking  that 
they  were  pure  gold.  In  the  afternoon  we  visited  the  Public  Gar- 
dens. The  gardener  is  a genius;  his  work  is  of  a very  high  order. 
That  evening  Professor  Martin  and  Mr.  Morris  went  away  to 
attend  a tea  meeting.  A.  E.  Lilburne,  the  clerk  of  the  church  and 
a pleasant  and  well-informed  gentleman,  took  charge  of  me  and 
placed  me  on  board  the  train  for  Adelaide. 

The  next  day  about  noon  I reached  my  destination,  and  found 
T.  J.  Gore  waiting  for  me  with  a carriage.  The  Australian  trains 
are  not  the  most  comfortable  in  the  world.  Every  half  hour  an 
inspector  comes  in  to  examine  tickets.  Sleep  is  murdered.  In 
consequence  of  this  pernicious  system  I was  weary.  After  lunch- 
eon, my  good  host  and  hostess  sent  me  to  bed  to  rest  and  recu- 
perate. On  Sunday  morning  I spoke  at  North  Adelaide.  Dr. 
Verco  presided.  When  he  speaks,  no  one  would  think  that  he  is  a 
busy  physician.  He  talks  as  if  he  did  nothing  but  preach.  Dr. 
Verco  is  a many-sided  man.  He  does  several  things,  and  does 
them  all  well.  On  Sunday  afternoon  the  Grote  Street  Sunday- 
school  and  the  mission  connected  with  that  church  met  to  hear  an 
address  on  the  condition  of  children  in  the  heathen  world.  The 
children  voted  to  observe  Children’s  Day,  and  to  help  in  sending 
the  Gospel  to  the  Chi'istless  nations.  That  night  I spoke  to  a great 
throng  in  Grote  Street.  On  Monday  evening  this  church  had  its 
annual  tea.  The  preachers  in  Adelaide  and  vicinity  were  present 
in  force.  Many  friends  of  the  church  attended  and  manifested 
their  interest  in  its  welfare.  Grote  Street  is  first,  and  last,  and 
always  a missionary  church.  The  Mission  Band  has  supported  a 
young  man  in  Hurda  who  is  preparing  for  the  ministry.  The 
Sunday-school  room  is  adorned  with  photographs  of  our  mission- 
aries. One  or  two  young  people  are  ready  to  go  out.  Anything 
relating  to  missions  is  heard  with  unusual  eagerness.  Several 
addresses  were  made  after  the  tea.  The  pastor  read  the  annual 
report.  This  showed  substantial  gains  in  all  departments.  On 
Tuesday  night  there  was  a farewell  meeting  in  the  hall  of  the 
Voung  Men’s  Christian  Association.  Dr.  Morton  was  asked  to 
preside.  He  is  at  the  head  of  a school  in  which  candidates  for  the 
mission  field  are  trained.  He  brought  his  whole  class  to  the 
service.  Mr.  Gore  wanted  me  to  see  everything  and  to  get  as  much 
work  out  of  me  as  possible.  The  people  are  hungry  to  hear  about 


286 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


the  work.  They  want  to  know  how  they  can  most  effectively  con- 
tribute to  its  support  and  enlargement.  One  afternoon  was  devoted 
to  a conference.  Men  and  women  belonging  to  all  the  churches 
came  together  to  inquire  about  the  missionaries  and  their  methods 
and  difficulties  and  needs.  One  morning  I was  taken  to  the  Botan- 
ical and  Zoological  Gardens  and  to  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts. 
One  evening  we  went  down  to  Glenelg  and  dined  with  Dr.  Magarey. 
On  the  way  we  called  to  see  Pastor  Abbott.  He  has  been  in  Ade- 
laide from  the  beginning.  There  are  seven  congregations  in  South 
Australia  known  as  Christian  churches.  They  are  very  much  like 
our  people.  They  baptize  as  we  do,  on  a confession  of  faith  in 
Jesus  as  the  Christ,  the  Son  of  God.  They  break  bread  every 
week.  The  points  of  difference  are  these:  They  are  Calvinists; 
they  lay  special  emphasis  on  the  pre-millennial  coming  of  Christ ; 
and  some  of  them  hold  to  the  theory  of  conditional  immortality. 
They  are  friendly  to  us;  their  pastors  and  our  evangelists  exchange 
services;  but  they  do  not  unite  in  any  association  or  in  any  work. 
Pastor  Abbott  belongs  to  these  people.  Henry  Hussey  is  another 
of  their  pastors.  He  jocularly  boasts  that  he  is  more  oi'thodox 
than  any  of  our  people,  as  he  went  all  the  way  from  Australia  to 
Bethany  to  be  baptized  by  Alexander  Campbell. 

The  next  morning  a number  of  men  and  women  came  down  with 
me  to  the  ship.  Mrs.  Gore  had  a box  of  choice  fruit  placed  in  my 
cabin.  The  Australians  know  how  to  welcome  the  coming  and  how 
to  speed  the  parting  guest.  They  omit  nothing  that  has  a tendency 
to  make  him  feel  grateful  that  he  has  been  able  to  visit  them  and 
to  make  him  desirous  of  visiting  them  again.  They  pay  all  expenses 
and  load  him  with  costly  gifts  and  slip  into  his  hand  a goodly  num- 
ber of  guineas  to  help  meet  the  cost  of  the  trip.  The  only  discom- 
fort is  in  the  thought  that  they  do  too  much;  they  do  far  more 
than  one  could  wish.  I met  some  men  and  women  in  Austi’alia 
who  raised  my  estimate  of  the  race  as  a whole.  I took  leave  of 
them  with  a fervent  prayer  that  they,  being  rooted  and  grounded  in 
love,  may  be  strong  to  apprehend,  with  all  the  saints,  what  is  the 
breadth,  and  length,  and  height,  and  depth,  and  to  know  the  love  of 
Christ  which  passeth  knowledge,  that  they  be  filled  unto  all  the 
fullness  of  God. 

Before  leaving  there  H.  D.  Smith  gave  me  the  names  of  the 
Americans  who  have  preached  for  the  churches  in  the  colonies. 
These  are:  H.  S.  Earl,  T.  J.  Gore,  G.  L.  Surber,  H.  L.  Geeslin, 
O.  A.  Carr,  W.  H.  Martin,  J.  F.  Floyd,  J.  J.  Haley,  A.  B.  Maston, 
J.  H.  Edwards,  W.  S.  Houchins  and  J.  W.  Shepherd.  In  Adelaide 


FROM  MELBOURNE  TO  THE  SHIR 


287 


they  still  tell  how  the  papers  advised  all  the  preachers  in  the  place 
to  go  to  hear  Mr.  Earl  as  a study  in  pulpit  eloquence.  In  Mel- 
bourne they  talk  of  the  great  sermons  preached  in  the  Music  Hall 
by  Mr.  Haley  to  the  thousands  that  flocked  to  hear.  All  these  men 
did  good  work,  and  left  a good  name  behind  them.  Speaking  of 
different  ones,  the  people  say,  “He  led  me  to  Christ.”  Of  the  men 
that  came  from  the  colonies  and  preached,  or  now  preach  in 
America,  the  names  are:  Mark  Collis,  T.  H.  Capp,  C.  A.  Mooi’e,  J. 
W.  Webb,  A.  M.  Growden,  M.  Gunn,  T.  H.  Bates,  C.  L.  Thurgood, 
Hugh  McLellau,  B.  C.  Black,  E.  T.  Edmonds,  G.  M.  Anderson,  J. 
J.  Irvine,  G.  T.  Walden,  and  H.  Goodacre.  Of  those  that  went  to 
America  to  be  educated  and  returned,  the  names  are:  P.  A.  Dick- 
son, J.  C.  Dickson,  F.  W.  Greenwood,  A.  C.  Rankine,  C.  T.  Fors- 
cutt  and  T.  H.  Jennings.  There  are  about  a dozen  men  in 
America  now  preparing  for  the  ministry.  The  day  should  cosue, 
and  come  soon,  when  the  colonies  will  establish  a school  of  their 
own  and  train  their  own  men. 


• xLvm. 

CONCERNING  THE  AUSTRALIAN  CHURCHES. 

The  Australian  Christians  have  some  admirable  traits.  All 
bring  their  Bibles  and  hymn-books  to  church.  They  follow  when 
the  Scriptures  are  read,  and  turn  to  the  text  and  other  passages  as 
they  are  announced.  All  join  in  the  singing.  They  sing  with  the 
spirit  and  with  the  understanding.  All  contribute  toward  the 
expenses  of  the  church.  I tried  to  find  out  the  methods  employed 
to  secure  a consummation  so  devoutly  to  be  wished,  but  failed.  All 
say  that  this  is  the  fact,  but  no  one  is  able  to  account  for  it.  The 
converts  are  expected  to  give,  and  this  expectation  is  not  disap- 
pointed. In  America  a minority  bear  all  the  financial  burdens. 
There  are  exceptions,  but  this  is  the  rule.  In  Australia  no  one 
would  be  regarded  as  being  in  good  standing  and  full  fellowship 
unless  he  bore  his  part  of  the  current  expenses.  A large  number  of 
business  men  can  exhort  and  preach  and  pray  acceptably.  There 
are  men  who  are  engaged  all  the  week  in  secular  pursuits  who  con- 
duct the  public  services  on  Sunday.  The  churches  feel  that  their 
existence  does  not  depend  upon  having  a preacher;  in  his  absence 
the  work  can  go  on.  Congregations  listen  most  intently.  There  is 
no  sleep  or  slumber  ,or  weariness.  No  one  consults  his  watch. 
They  are  quick  to  see  a good  point  and.  to  respond.  Some  audi- 
ences are  cold  and  sluggish;  they  would  quench  a seraph’s  fire.  If 
one  had  the  tongues  of  men  and  angels,  he  could  not  speak  effect- 
ively in  their  presence.  Others  inspire  a speaker,  and  call  out  the 
best  that  is  in  him.  If  one  can  speak  at  all,  he  can  speak  well  to 
an  Australian  audience. 

Wherever  I went  people  said,  “ I suppose  you  find  things  here 
different  from  what  they  are  in  America.”  In  most  things,  and  in 
the  most  essential  things,  there  is  no  difference.  An  Australian 
would  find  himself  very  much  at  home  in  any  American  church, 
and  an  American  would  find  the  same  in  Australia.  I detected  some 
differences  that  are  verbal  only.  The  preacher  is  called  the  “ evan- 
gelist.” The  term  is  more  classical  than  the  one  we  use.  I detected 
some  real  differences.  The  Sunday  morning  service  is  for  the  mem- 
bers only.  No  effort  is  made  to  secure  the  attendance  of  non- 

288 


1.  Jolm  Bardsley,  Sydney.  2.  Mrs.  John  Bardsley.  Sydney. 

3.  J.  Colbourne.  Adelaide. 

4.  D.  A.  Ewers.  Melbourne  5.  William  Burford,  Adelaide. 

0.  A.  B.  Mastou.  Melbourne.  7.  F.  G.  Dunn.  Melbourne, 


AUSTRALIAN  FRIENDS. 


CONCERNING  THE  AUSTRALIAN  CHURCHES 


289 


believers.  They  are  not  debarred,  but  they  are  not  expected,  and 
they  do  not  come.  The  Lord’s  Supper  is  the  main  feature  of  this 
service.  This  usually  occupies  an  hour.  There  is  an  unwritten  law 
that  the  entire  service  must  not  exceed  an  hour  and  a half  in  length. 
The  speaker  has  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes  for  an  exhorta- 
tion. Sometimes  the  evangelist  speaks;  more  frequently  some  one 
else.  At  one  time  any  one  who  wished  could  speak;  now  the  offi- 
cers determine  who  shall  occupy  the  time.  The  Sunday  morning 
service  is  very  like  a mid-week  prayer-meeting  at  home. 

One  of  the  Melbourne  elders  asked  me  how  we  conducted  our 
meetings.  When  I told  him,  he  said,  “Perhaps  that  accounts  for 
your  rapid  growth  in  America.”  I think  it  does.  The  Sunday 
morning  service  is  the  best  service  in  the  week  for  preaching  the 
Gospel.  It  is  easier  to  get  strangers  to  attend  in  the  morning  than 
in  the  evening.  In  the  churches.of  which  I have  knowledge  there 
are  more  confessions  in  the  morning  services  than  at  any  other.  In 
Australia  the  pressure  of  the  Gospel  upon  the  world  is  reduced  one- 
half.  In  my  opinion,  they  would  do  far  better  if  they  would  seek  to  fill 
their  houses  and  preach  the  Gospel  at  every  service.  They  could  give 
saint  and  sinner  a portion  in  due  season.  I think  the  results  would 
be  more  gratifying.  Last  year  there  was  a net  loss  of  five  churches 
and  thirty-six  members  in  Victoria;  the  year  before  there  was  a loss 
of  two  hundred  and  eighteen  members.  New  South  Wales  had  a 
gain  of  only  one  in  the  year.  These  losses  are  explained  by  saying 
that  some  have  i-emoved  to  West  Australia,  and  that  several  church 
rolls  have  been  revised.  The  explanation  accounts  for  a part  of  the 
losses,  but  not  for  all.  Christianity  is  a conquering  faith.  If  in  any 
field  it  does  not  run  and  is  not  glorified,  there  must  be  some  reason 
for  it.  It  is  for  those  in  charge  to  inquire  what  the  reason  is.  I 
believe  the  Melbourne  elder  laid  his  finger  on  the  weak  spot.  I am 
sure  that  the  churches  in  America  would  lose  immensely  if  they  were 
to  adopt  the  Australian  system.  Our  churches  magnify  the  Lord’s 
Supper,  but  they  do  not  lose  sight  of  the  unsaved.  At  every 
service  people  are  urged  to  believe  on  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ  and  to 
confess  him  publicly. 

In  the  Conference  one  or  two  speakers  were  constantly  talking 
against  taking  money  from  the  unimmersed.  Their  remarks  always 
called  out  some  applause.  One  man  said  that  some  Sunday-schools 
had  made  offerings  to  the  work.  He  spoke  of  this  as  a violation 
of  a principle  of  the  Church  of  Christ.  The  President  explained 
that  a resolution  had  been  adopted  three  years  ago  providing  that 

all  such  offerings  should  be  used  for  benevolent,  and  not  for  evan- 
19 


290 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


gelistic,  purposes.  I was  asked  if  it  was  true  that  the  American 
churches  took  money  from  “ all  and  sundries.”  I told  them  that  in 
America  money  for  the  Lord’s  work  came  from  the  Lord’s  people. 
The  world  loves  its  own  and  spends  its  money  on  its  own.  If  any 
money  came  from  the  outside  it  was  so  infinitesimal  that  it  was  not 
worth  talking  or  contending  about.  We  are  in  no  danger  from  this 
source  in  America,  and  do  not  need  to  put  up  any  safeguards. 
John  Bright  used  to  tell  of  a mountebank  who  sold  pills  to  prevent 
earthquakes.  We  are  in  as  little  peril  from  one  source  as  from  the 
other,  aud  do  not  need  to  take  any  preventive.  We  make  our 
appeal  to  the  churches  and  we  get  our  money  from  the  churches.  I 
learned  that  the  churches  in  Australia  are  not  a unit  in  their  oppo- 
sition to  taking  money  from  the  unimmersed.  Some  take  any  that 
is  offered  and  make  no  remark.  They  call  to  mind  the  words: 
“The  silver  is  mine,  and  the  gold  is  mine,  saith  the  Lord,”  and  if 
any  one  wishes  to  pay  to  the  Lord  that  which  he  owes,  they  do  not 
object.  Others  can  see  no  difference  between  taking  money  for 
evangelistic  and  for  benevolent  purposes.  They  think  this  is  a dis- 
tinction without  a difference. 

No  unimmersed  person  is  invited  to  the  Lord’s  table.  I was 
asked  more  than  once  as  to  the  views  and  practice  of  the  churches 
in  America.  Here  again  it  seems  to  me  that  this  matter  is  dwelt 
upon  with  undue  insistence.  The  fact  is,  that  people  of  other  com- 
munions are  not  pressing  in  and  claiming  the  right  of  sitting  down 
with  them  at  the  Lord’s  table.  There  is  no  need  of  fencing  the 
tables,  as  there  is  no  one  seeking  to  obtrude  himself  where  he  knows 
he  is  not  welcome.  Even  if  their  position  was  scriptural,  this  is 
not  a practical  issue,  and  all  that  is  said  about  it  is  a waste  of 
breath.  On  the  question  of  instrumental  music  there  is  as  much 
diversity  as  at  home.  Some  use  the  organ  at  all  the  services;  some 
at  the  evening  services  only;  two  or  three  that  I visited  do  not  use 
it  at  all.  Some  speak  of  the  morning  service  as  for  worship,  the 
evening  service  as  for  preaching  the  Gospel.  I think,  speaking 
broadly,  the  churches  in  New  South  Wales  are  the  most  conserva- 
tive in  Australia;  those  in  South  Australia  the  least  so,  and  those 
in  Victoria  are  between  the  two. 

There  are  12,850  Disciples  of  Christ  in  Australasia.  Of  these 
150  are  in  West  Australia;  2,621  in  South  Australia;  5,150  in  Vic- 
toria; 2,129  in  New  South  Wales;  300  in  Tasmania;  2,500  in  New 
Zealand.  This  number  should  be  doubled  in  ten  years.  To  do  this, 
more  preachers  are  needed  to  give  their  whole  time  to  the  work. 
At  one  time  any  form  of  paid  labor  smacked  of  ecclesiasticism  and 


CONCERNING  THE  A USTRALIAN  CHURCHES 


291 


was  supposed  to  have  the  mark  of  the  beast.  That  feeling  has 
largely  died  out.  These  churches  are  learning  what  other  churches 
had  to  learn,  namely,  that  they  must  have  an  able  and  educated 
ministry,  and  that  those  who  preach  the  Gospel  must  live  of  the 
Gospel.  It  is  well  to  have  business  men  capable  of  preaching  on 
Sunday,  but  that  is  a small  part  of  the  work.  With  every  pulpit 
supplied  and  every  pew  filled  on  Sunday  morning  and  evening,  we 
may  confidently  expect  the  churches  of  Australasia  to  enter  uj)on 
. careers  of  unexampled  prosperity. 


XLIX. 


FROM  ADELAIDE  TO  ISMAILIA. 

We  left  Adelaide  on  the  twenty-second  day  of  April.  Commis- 
sioner Coombs  and  family  and  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Dowdle,  of  the 
Salvation  Army,  were  among  the  passengers.  The  Salvationists 
were  out  in  force  to  see  them  off.  About  a hundred  men  and 
women  accompanied  them  to  the  ship.  They  sang  and  prayed  on 
board,  and  listened  to  some  parting  counsels  from  the  Commis- 
sioner. He  had  been  in  charge  of  the  work  in  Australia  for  six 
years.  Under  his  wise  management  the  Army  grew  and  flourished. 
He  goes  to  take  charge  of  the  work  in  England.  Herbert  Booth 
takes  his  place  in  the  Colonies. 

The  cabins  and  tables  were  full.  The  passengers  proved  quiet 
and  orderly.  Most  of  them  are  Christian  people.  There  was  no 
gambling,  and  little  drinking  to  excess.  In  this  respect  the  passen- 
gers are  widely  different  from  those  on  the  ship  on  the  voyage 
out.  I found  the  Colonials  very  friendly.  Some  of  these  had  been 
in  the  Colonies  for  fifty  years,  and  are  wealthy.  They  are  going 
back  to  visit  the  land  of  their  birth.  They  still  speak  of  England 
as  “home,”  but  they  have  no  thought  of  remaining  there.  Their 
homes  and  their  interests  are  under  the  Southern  Cross,  and  they 
mean  to  return  after  seeing  their  friends  and  kinsmen. 

There  are  twenty-nine  children  on  board.  Some  of  these  are 
not  at  all  backward  in  coming  forward;  none  of  them  are  angels; 
but  they  add  not  a little  to  the  amusement  and  enjoyment  of  their 
associates.  They  go  everywhere,  ask  all  sorts  of  questions,  and 
laugh  and  play  in  calm  and  storm.  The  voyage  would  be  dull 
and  dreary  without  them.  Blessings  on  you,  little  folks  ! 

“You  are  better  than  all  the  ballads 
That  ever  were  sung  or  said ; 

For  you  are  the  living  poems, 

And  all  the  rest  are  dead.” 

One  passenger  is  a dog.  His  mistress  washes  and  combs  his 
shaggy  hair,  feeds  him,  and  kisses  and  caresses  him.  His  master 
carries  him  about  when  he  needs  air,  and  walks  the  deck  with  him 
when  he  needs  exercise.  This  poodle  is  a lucky  dog.  Few  children 
are  cared  for  so  tenderly. 


292 


FROM  ADELAIDE  TO  ISMAILIA 


293 


Soon  after  starting,  the  usual  committee  on  entertainment  was 
appointed.  The  committee  sought  to  please  all  classes.  Accord- 
ingly, they  arranged  for  debates,  lectures,  concerts,  cricket  and  field 
sports  of  all  kinds,  chess,  cards,  draughts,  moot  courts,  and  dances. 
A weekly  paper  was  published.  This  gave  all  the  home  news  and 
contained  imaginary  cablegrams  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  The 
Colonials  nearly  all  play  whist,  euchre  and  cribbage.  Cricket  is 
the  great  English  game.  It  is  much  less  violent  than  base  ball. 
Saturday  night  was  reserved  for  dancing.  No  one  looked  upon 
this  as  disqualifying  the  participants  for  worship  the  next  day. 
The  captain  danced  with  young  and  mature  girls  till  midnight,  and 
read  the  service  on  Sunday  with  the  solemnity  of  a bishop.  Neither 
card-playing  nor  dancing  is  regarded  as  unbecoming  in  a Christian. 
One  aged  lady  wanted  some  one  to  help  her  dance  the  Highland 
Fling.  Usually  I feel  impelled  to  assist  persons  of  this  class  when 
I find  them  traveling  alone.  But  as  I do  not  know  the  Highland 
Fling  from  a waltz,  or  a waltz  from  a hornpipe,  I was  obliged  to 
remain  silent.  The  young  fellows  who  could  dance  were  not  gal- 
lant enough  to  volunteer.  Had  she  been  young  and  beautiful,  there 
would  have  been  no  dearth  of  partners. 

There  being  no  English  clergyman  on  board,  we  had  no  sermon 
in  the  morning.  The  Captain  read  the  service  of  the  English 
Church  and  dismissed  the  audience.  It  seemed  to  me  that  he  was 
going  through  with  a disagreeable  duty,  and  was  glad  when  he  came 
to  the  end.  The  service  is  wondrously  beautiful.  Its  charmed 
words  fell  on  the  ear  and  heart  like  music.  But  I missed  the 
sermon  and  the  Lord’s  Supper.  We  were  dismissed  before  we 
came  to  the  true  conclusion.  We  went  away  as  from  the  first 
course  at  a feast.  The  soul’s  thirst  was  unslaked,  its  hunger  unfed. 
The  evening  services  were  conducted  in  the  second  saloon.  The 
people  gathered  on  the  deck  and  sang  and  listened.  The  Salva- 
tionists spoke  twice.  The  first  address  was  somewhat  of  a surprise. 
I did  not  suppose  that  such  antiquated  theology  was  preached  any- 
where. I had  many  talks  with  these  godly  men,  and  found  much 
pleasure  and  profit  in  their  society.  They  explained  to  me  the  man- 
agement and  work  of  the  Army.  Each  division  is  self-supporting. 
The  officers  receive  a certain  amount,  provided  they  raise  it.  Col- 
lections are  called  for  at  all  the  services.  A part  of  the  money 
raised  in  this  way  is  sent  to  London  for  general  expenses.  One 
week  in  the  year  is  set  apart  for  self-denial.  The  soldiers  in  Aus- 
tralia gave  $70,000  in  this  week.  The  whole  Army  gave  $200,000. 
General  Booth  has  never  drawn  a dollar  of  salary.  Some  wealthy 


294 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


friends  supply  his  needs  and  pay  all  his  traveling  expenses.  In 
starting  a work  in  India  or  Japan,  grants  are  made,  and  the  officers 
in  charge  are  expected  to  use  these  as  economically  as  possible.  I 
talked  with  them  about  the  ordinances.  The  Army  observes 
neither  baptism  nor  the  Lord’s  Supper.  The  explanation  given 
was,  that  these  are  symbols,  and  that,  if  they  have  the  realities 
symbolized,  the  symbols  can  be  dispensed  with.  One  of  their  mot- 
toes is,  “Don’t  argue.”  I regard  their  treatment  of  the  ordinances 
as  an  error  and  as  a weak  point.  Our  Lord  understood  human 
nature,  and  he  gave  no  ordinance  that  does  not  have  its  place  and 
use.  Consequently  it  can  not  be  set  aside  without  loss.  No  one 
denies  the  zeal  and  devotion  of  the  Salvation  Army.  Their  motto 
is,  “Blood  and  Fire.”  The  army  was  organized,  so  it  is  said,  to 
save  sinners,  to  save  the  worst  sinners,  and  to  save  the  largest  num- 
ber of  the  worst  sinners.  The  soldiers  go  everywhere,  and  bear 
testimony  wherever  they  go.  The  joy  of  the  Lord  is  their  strength. 
General  Booth  is  not  afraid  to  tackle  any  evil.  He  has  attacked 
sin  in  its  strongholds;  he  has  undertaken  to  deal  with  poverty  in 
the  great  cities;  to  rescue  fallen  men  and  fallen  women;  to  assist 
discharged  convicts;  in  short,  to  hasten  the  coming  of  the  new 
heavens  and  the  new  earth  wherein  dwells  righteousness. 

At  the  request  of  the  passengers  I spoke  on  two  Sunday  even- 
ings. I gave  two  lectures  besides.  I spoke  once  on  my  travels  and 
once  on  America.  In  a public  address,  the  speaker  spoke  slight- 
ingly of  Americans.  He  said  that  in  America  human  life  was 
lightly  esteemed.  He  did  not  know  that  there  was  an  American  on 
the  ship.  After  the  service  I challenged  his  statements.  Others 
joined  in  the  conversation.  They  talked  of  the  bad  way  in  which 
Americans  usually  acted.  One  man  blandly  said,  “Everybody 
knows  that  your  officials  from  the  President  down  are  corrupt.” 
Judges,  Congi’essmen  and  customs  officers  were  all  included  in  this 
sweeping  condemnation.  As  a result  of  the  evening’s  talk  I was 
asked  to  give  a lecture  on  America,  with  a view  to  remove  existing 
misappi’ehensious.  The  people  ixx  the  East  and  South  know  almost 
nothing  about  America.  I searched  the  book-stores  of  Colombo  for 
an  American  history  or  for  any  book  on  America,  but  found  none. 
The  most  popular  works  at  home  are  unknown  by  name  here. 
When  the  time  came,  I gave  the  audience  some  idea  of  the  extent 
of  our  territory,  the  character  of  our  people  and  their  contribution 
to  the  welfare  of  humanity,  of  the  stability  of  our  government,  of 
the  incorruptibility  of  our  public  men,  and  of  the  problems  we  are 


FROM  ADELAIDE  TO  ISM  A I LI  A 


295 


trying  to  solve.  I spoke  for  an  hour  and  a half.  Some  were  so 
interested  that  they  said  they  could  have  listened  all  night. 

We  were  three  days  crossing  the  Great  Australian  Bight.  Our 
first  stop  was  made  at  Albany  in  West  Australia.  We  set  down  and 
took  on  some  passengers  at  this  point.  Our  next  stop  was  at 
Colombo.  Some  of  the  natives  claim  that  this  was  the  site  of 
Eden.  It  is  a veritable  paradise.  One  may  travel  over  the  world 
and  not  find  another  spot  so  beautiful.  The  people  have  not  yet 
forgiven  Heber  for  speaking  of  Ceylon  as  the  place  “ where  every 
prospect  pleases,  and  only  man  is  vile.”  He  was  not  far  wrong. 
The  place  swarms  with  beggars.  Children  are  taught  to  beg  and  to 
lie  as  soon  as  they  are  born.  They  all  have  the  same  story:  “ Me 

no  fader;  me  no  model’;  me  no  broder;  me  two  sisters  to  feed;  good 
papa,  give  me  something  to  buy  rice  and  curry.”  Bearded  men  and 
young  children  follow  strangers  for  miles  repeating  this  story. 
When  one  has  heard  it  ten  thousand  times,  he  wonders  if  all  the 
youth  of  Ceylon  are  really  orphans;  and  if  so,  what  epidemic  car- 
ried off  all  the  parents  and  spared  all  the  children. 

The  next  land  we  saw  after  leaving  Colombo  was  the  large  island 
of  Socotra.  To  us  it  appeai’ed  a barren  rock.  We  saw  no  signs  of 
life  of  any  kind.  We  learned,  however,  that  there  are  ten  thou- 
sand people  on  the  island,  and  that  they  cultivate  spices  of  differ- 
ent kinds.  Socotra  is  a British  possession.  Our  next  call  was  at 
Aden.  This  is  the  Indian  Gibraltar.  The  British  own  thirty-five 
square  miles  of  Arabia.  They  have  here  a military  establishment 
and  a coaling  station  for  the  navy.  The  population,  excluding  the 
garrison,  numbers  thirty  thousand.  The  town  and  fort  are  in  the 
crater  of  an  extinct  volcano.  The  feature  that  interests  strangers 
most  is  the  system  of  tanks  made  to  catch  and  hold  water.  Some- 
times it  does  not  rain  for  years.  Long  ago  these  tanks  were 
begun.  They  hold  in  all  thirty  million  gallons.  One  sees  almost 
no  vegetation.  The  beggars  here  are  as  numerous  as  in  Colombo, 
and  they  have  the  identical  story.  Ostrich  feathers,  tapestries, 
boxes  and  baskets  of  various  kinds  are  pressed  on  the  passenger 
for  sale.  If  a seller  gets  a third  of  the  first  price,  he  gets  as  much 
as  he  ought.  The  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society  has  a depot 
here.  The  Church  Missionary  Society  has  a chaplain.  The  Roman 
Catholics  have  a strong  staff.  In  the  English  graveyard  rests  all 
that  was  mortal  of  Ion  Iveith-Falconer.  He  was  a son  of  the  Earl 
of  Ivintore.  At  Cambridge,  where  he  was  educated,  and  where  he 
taught  Arabic,  he  was  neither  a prig  nor  a Pharisee.  He  delighted 
in  all  athletic  sports.  He  was  the  best  amateur  cyclist  in  England. 


296 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


He  was  a helper  in  mission  work  at  home.  He  heard  General  Haig 
plead  for  some  one  to  work  in  Aden.  Thousands  came  from  all  parts 
of  Arabia  to  Aden,  and  they  could  but  contrast  the  peace  and  order 
and  liberty  of  the  place  with  the  misrule  and  despotism  of  their  own 
homes.  Here  was  a great  opening  fora  good  work.  This  young  man, 
living  in  a pleasant  home  with  a happy  bride,  in  the  midst  of  the  cul- 
ture and  refinement  of  an  ancient  university,  with  a splendid  career 
opening  before  him,  left  all  at  the  call  of  God  to  work  in  Arabia  at 
his  own  expense.  He  took  the  Aden  fever  and  died.  Behind  his 
grave  are  the  gloomy  hills  of  darkness,  to  whose  people  he  came 
with  the  message  of  Gospel  light;  before  it  the  white  Arabian 
shore,  with  the  ocean  stretching  away  into  the  limitless  distance. 
The  Free  Church  of  Scotland  has  taken  up  his  work  and  has 
resolved  to  prosecute  it  vigorously. 

The  day  before  we  reached  Aden  one  of  the  passengers  died. 
She  was  sick  when  she  boarded  the  ship  in  Melbourne.  Sixteen 
years  ago  she  left  Scotland  to  marry  a prosperous  colonist.  She 
was  then  one  of  the  happiest  girls  that  ever  breathed.  Her  life 
since  has  not  been  without  sorrow.  She  and  her  husband  parted. 
Feeling  that  her  end  was  drawing  nigh,  she  started  for  Scotland. 
She  wanted  to  put  her  little  daughter  under  the  care  of  some  rela- 
tives. Her  prayer  was  that  she  might  reach  the  home  of  her  youth. 
This  prayer  was  not  answered.  Most  of  the  way  she  was  in  the  hos- 
pital. Some  of  the  passengers  took  care  of  her  and  supplied  her 
needs.  One  of  them  took  charge  of  her  daughter.  I have  always 
noticed  that  where  God  sends  sorrow  or  sickness,  he  also  sends  some 
good  woman  to  comfort  and  to  nurse.  Her  body  was  placed  in  a 
coffin  heavily  loaded  with  iron.  As  the  sun  was  setting,  the  coffin, 
draped  with  a flag,  was  placed  on  a platform.  The  captain  read  the 
burial  service.  When  he  came  to  the  words,  “ We  therefore  com- 
mit her  body  to  the  deep,”  the  seamen  raised  one  end  of  the  plat- 
form. The  coffin  slid  down  and  sank  like  a stone.  The  engines, 
which  had  been  stopped,  were  started  again,  and  the  ship  continued 
her  course  as  if  nothing  had  happened. 

Ninety  miles  west  of  Aden  we  entered  the  Red  Sea.  This  sea  is 
not  red,  but  blue.  The  entrance  is  known  as  the  Straits  of  Babul 
Mandib,  or  “The  Gate  of  Tears,”  so  named  from  the  number  of 
ships  that  have  been  wrecked  in  this  region.  Soon  after  we  passed 
the  Island  of  Perim.  The  English  flag  flies  over  it,  and  a small  gar- 
rison is  stationed  there.  This  island  commands  the  entrance  to  the 
sea,  somewhat  as  Gibraltar  commands  the  entrance  to  the  Mediterra- 
nean. We  were  three  days  on  this  sea.  Much  of  the  time  we  could 


THE  PYRAMIDS. 


SUEZ  CANAL. 


FROM  ADELAIDE  TO  ISMAILIA 


297 


see  no  land  on  either  side.  We  saw  many  ships.  The  Red  Sea  is 
now  one  of  the  great  highways  of  the  nations.  All  ships  bound  for 
the  East  pass  through  the  Suez  Canal  and  the  Red  Sea.  As  we 
entered  the  Gulf  of  Suez  we  saw  the  mountains  of  Arabia  and 
Africa.  In  the  far  distance  is  Sinai,  where  the  law  was  given  to 
Moses,  but  we  could  not  see  it.  The  days  and  nights  were  cool  and 
refreshing.  Usually  on  the  Red  Sea  the  heat  is  suggestive  of 
Tophet.  We  had  nothing  to  complain  of  in  this  respect.  People 
sat  on  deck  with  their  wraps  about  them,  and  slept  at  night  under 
covers.  We  had  heard  much  of  the  hot  blasts  from  the  Sahara,  but 
we  felt  none.  In  fact,  we  had  no  oppressive  heat  at  any  time  in  the 
voyage.  The  tropics  behaved  beautifully.  There  was  no  time  when 
we  could  not  work  or  play,  according  to  our  mood.  When  we 
crossed  the  equator  we  saw  the  polestar  and  the  Great  Bear.  In 
the  Red  Sea  we  lost  sight  of  the  Southern  Cross. 

After  a brief  stay  at  Suez  we  entered  the  canal.  This  ditch  is 
eight}--seven  miles  long  and  is  deep  enough  for  the  largest  ships.  It 
cost  nearly  $100,000,000.  One  wonders  why  English  engineers 
declared  that  a canal  here  was  impossible.  The  Isthmus  is  level. 
The  Bitter  Lakes  lessened  the  cutting.  One  of  these  is  fifteen  miles 
long;  another  is  seven.  There  is  an  enormous  amount  of  digging, 
but  that  is  all.  There  are  no  triumphs  of  engineering  genius.  The 
cutting  of  the  Suez  Canal  is  child’s  play  compared  with  the  build- 
ing of  the  Southern  Pacific  or  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railway.' 
I left  the  ship  at  Ismailia.  The  passengers  gathered  about  me  and 
expressed  their  regret  that  I was  not  going  with  them  to  London. 
No  one  could  wish  to  travel  with  a nicer  company  of  people.  I 
shall  always  cherish  pleasant  memories  of  these  colonials.  The  cap- 
tain is  a little  snob.  He  did  not  wish  to  be  intimate  with  any  one 
who  was  not  distinguished  by  a title  or  wealth  or  genius.  One  good 
woman,  an  invalid  too,  wished  to  be  introduced  to  him  that  she 
might  thank  him  for  some  privilege  accorded  her.  He  said,  “No; 
if  I consent  to  be  introduced  to  her,  I shall  have  to  be  introduced 
to  others.”  Perhaps  he  has  a drop  of  blue  blood  in  his  veins  or 
some  blue  milk  in  his  stomach.  The  company  to  which  the  ship 
belongs  is  rich  and  pays  large  dividends.  At  the  same  time  its 
treatment  of  its  men  is  simply  scandalous.  The  stewards  get  no 
butter;  they  eat  standing  about;  they  sleep  like  cattle  down  in  the 
hold;  some  of  them  are  on  duty  for  twenty-four  hours  without 
intermission.  Such  shameful  treatment  of  men  should  be  impos- 
sible under  great  England’s  fiag  and  on  a ship  receiving  large 
subsidies  from  the  British  government. 


L. 


FROM  ISMAIL IA  TO  ALEXANDRIA. 

Ismailia  is  on  the  Isthmus  of  Suez,  about  midway  between  the 
Red  Sea  and  the  Mediterranean.  This  neck  of  land  connects  Asia 
and  Africa,  and  has  associations  of  the  greatest  historic  interest. 
Over  it  Abraham  and  his  family  passed  when  they  went  down  into 
Egypt  in  the  time  of  famine.  Over  it  Joseph  was  carried  when  he 
was  sold  by  his  brethren  to  a company  of  Ishmaelites.  They  came 
from  Gilead,  writh  their  camels  bearing  spicery,  and  balm,  and 
myrrh,  going  to  carry  it  down  to  Egypt.  Over  it  Jacob  and  his 
household  passed  when  at  Joseph’s  invitation  they  went  to  sojourn 
in  Goshen  during  the  years  of  famine.  Over  it  the  Assyrian,  the 
Chaldean,  the  Persian  and  the  Arab  passed  on  their  way  to  conquer 
Egypt,  and  over  it  the  Egyptian  armies  mai’ched  on  their  way  to 
invade  western  Asia. 

At  some  point  in  our  course  through  the  Red  Sea  and  the  canal, 
we  must  have  crossed  the  path  of  the  Hebrews  on  the  Exodus. 
One  place  on  the  Gulf  of  Suez  was  pointed  out  as  the  actual  spot. 
There  are  high  hills  on  either  side  of  a plain  large  enough  to  accom- 
modate the  host  of  Israel.  The  sea  there  is  seven  miles  wide.  Sir 
William  Dawson  and  others  are  of  the  opinion  that,  at  that  time, 
the  Red  Sea  extended  as  far  inland  as  the  Bitter  Lakes,  and  that  the 
crossing  took  place  not  far  from  the  present  Ismailia.  But  as  we 
scanned  every  inch  of  the  way  for  two  hundred  miles,  we  must  have 
seen  the  place  where  the  people  at  the  command  of  God  went 
forward,  and  where  the  seas  parted  and  gave  them  an  easy  and  safe 
passage,  and  where  the  Egyptians,  undertaking  to  capture  them  and 
bring  them  back  to  their  cruel  bondage,  were  drowned.  It  was  easy 
in  imagination  to  call  up  the  great  scene  and  the  actors. 

The  enemy  said,  “ I will  pursue,  I will  overtake,  I will  divide 
the  spoil;  my  lust  shall  be  satisfied  upon  them;  I will  draw  my 
sword,  my  hand  shall  destroy  them.”  God  blew,  the  sea  covered 
them ; they  sank  as  lead  in  the  mighty  waters.  In  the  psalm  of 
victory,  the  people  said,  “Who  is  like  unto  thee,  O Lord,  among 
the  gods?  Who  is  like  unto  thee,  glorious  in  holiness,  fearful  in 
praises,  doing  wonders?  ” Miriam  and  all  the  women  took  timbrels 

298 


FROM  ISMAILIA  TO  ALEXANDRIA 


299 


and  danced  and  said,  “ Sing  ye  to  the  Lord,  for  he  hath  triumphed 
gloriously;  the  horse  and  his  rider  hath  he  thrown  into  the  sea.” 

At  Ismailia  two  other  passengers  left  the  boat  for  a brief  stay 
in  Egypt.  In  the  morning  we  walked  out  to  see  the  town.  The 
donkey  boys  discovered  us  and  insisted  that  we  should  have  a ride 
on  their  animals.  One  was  named  “ Yankee  Doodle;  ” one,  “ Mrs. 
Langtry,”  and  one  the  “ Grand  Old  Man.”  These  lads  are  shrewd, 
and  understand  human  nature  better  than  many  philosophers.  By 
wit  and  flattery  and  importunity  they  seek  to  worm  a few  extra 
piasters  out  of  their  patrons,  and  seldom  fail.  They  are  civil  and 
attentive  and  point  out  everything  that  has  any  historic  interest. 
Ismailia  is  a dull  place.  It  originated  when  the  canal  was  in  process 
of  construction.  It  depends  wholly  upon  the  canal  for  support. 
All  around  is  desert.  From  Suez,  we  saw  scarcely  any  green  thing. 
Where  springs  are  found  or  where  sweet-water  canals  have  been 
cut,  one  sees  feathery  palms,  grain,  fruits  and  flowers,  but  these  are 
scarce.  In  the  afternoon  we  took  the  train  for  Cairo.  For  miles 
we  saw  only  a sea  of  sand.  One  station  is  named  Tel-el-Kebir.  It 
was  here  that  General  Wolseley  smashed  the  power  of  Arabi,  and 
saved  the  Egyptians  from  a great  evil  and  the  foreigners  from  a 
grave  peril.  After  Tel-el-Kebir  the  verdure  increased  till  the 
whole  country  became  a garden.  Central  Illinois  is  not  more  fer- 
tile. We  passed  through  the  ancient  Goshen.  Pharaoh  said  to 
Joseph,  “The  land  of  Egypt  is  before  thee;  in  the  best  of  the 
land  make  thy  father  and  brethren  to  dwell.”  The  king  added, 
“Ye  shall  eat  of  the  fat  of  the  land.”  This  district  answers  to  the 
description.  Though  the  country  is  naturally  fertile,  and  yields 
several  crops  a year,  the  people  are  indescribably  poor.  They  herd 
together  in  mud  huts,  and  are  destitute  of  almost  every  comfort. 
The  whole  family  live  in  one  room.  The  same  apartment  is  shared 
with  the  dogs  and  goats  and  fleas.  England  is  in  Egypt,  and  there 
is  a sense  of  unwonted  peace  and  security.  I trust  that  England 
will  abide  in  Egypt,  and  so  preclude  a return  of  the  misgovernment 
of  the  Khedive.  In  case  she  does  so,  the  inhabitants  of  this  “ gar- 
den of  Jehovah  ” will  enter  upon  a period  of  unprecedented  pros- 
perity. The  railway  leaves  Zoan  and  Raineses  on  the  right.  Zoan 
was  founded  seven  years  before  Hebron.  It  was  a town  of  some 
importance  before  the  migration  of  Abraham.  Zoan  was  once  the 
capital.  It  was  to  this  place  that  Moses  and  Aaron  went  to  demand 
of  Pharaoh  that  he  let  the  children  of  Israel  go.  Rameses  was  the 
place  of  the  first  encampment.  It  was  here  that  they  rendezvoused 


300 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


and  kept  the  Passover  with  their  feet  shod  and  loins  girded.  Every 
foot  of  this  journey  was  absorbingly  interesting. 

We  reached  Cairo  two  hours  before  dark,  and  were  surprised  to 
find  it  such  a fine  city.  In  modern  Cairo  the  buildings  are  large  and 
substantial.  The  streets,  though  not  wide,  are  well  paved  and 
lighted.  There  is  an  old  Cairo.  This  is  the  Arab  quarter.  There 
the  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked  and  foul.  There  the  cholera 
microbes  breed  and  spread.  But  much  of  Cairo  is  clean  and  whole- 
some. The  hotels  are  as  good  as  those  in  Bombay  or  Melbourne. 
The  city  is  well  supplied  with  mosques.  There  are  two  hundred 
and  sixty-four  of  these  places  of  prayer.  From  any  elevation  one 
sees  minarets  in  all  directions.  At  intervals  the  shrill  cry  of  the 
muezzin  is  heard  calling  “the  faithful”  to  prayer  and  reminding 
them  that  there  is  no  god  but  God,  and  that  Mohammed  is  the 
prophet  of  God.  The  Mohammedans  founded  this  city  in  honor  of 
their  conquest  of  the  land,  and  named  it  “ The  Victorious.”  Most 
of  the  people  are  Mohammedans;  the  other  faiths  are  represented 
by  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  chapels. 

Being  a semi-tropical  climate  the  people  live  much  in  the  open 
air.  They  need  little  clothing  and  little  shelter.  It  was  a common 
thing  to  see  men  sleeping  on  the  streets  or  in  the  parks  or  wherever 
they  could  find  room  to  stretch  their  bodies.  In  the  morning  and 
evening  tables  and  chairs  were  placed  out  on  the  sidewalks,  and 
hundreds  sat  down  and  played  games  and  drank  coffee  or  whisky, 
according  to  their  taste  and  I’eligion.  The  bright  colors  worn  by  the 
people  attract  the  attention  of  strangers.  Men  dress  in  all  sorts  of 
styles,  but  more  and  more  the  European  style  is  becoming  preva- 
lent. Nearly  all  wear  the  red  fez.  We  saw  many  women  walking 
the  streets,  but  never  in  the  company  of  men.  The  men  go  together, 
each  holding  the  hand  of  the  other;  the  women  do  the  same.  The 
wives  and  daughters  of  Mohammedans  and  Copts  in  good  circum- 
stances are  always  veiled;  only  the  eyes  are  seen.  Black  women 
are  as  careful  on  this  point  as  white.  The  veil  protects  them 
against  insult.  Rich  women  always  dress  in  black.  Poor  women 
and  the  wives  and  daughters  of  Europeans  go  uncovered.  They 
have  not  been  born  to  blush  unseen.  We  made  long  excursions 
into  the  city  by  night  and  by  day.  The  people  everywhere  were 
invariably  quiet.  We  saw  no  drunkenness  and  no  disposition  to  do 
us  any  violence.  We  were  unarmed,  and  felt  as  secure  as  we  could 
have  have  felt  in  Boston  or  London. 

Securing  a dragoman  and  a carriage  we  drove  out  to  see  the 
Pyramids.  On  the  way  we  got  our  first  view  of  the  Nile.  The 


FROM  ISMAILIA  TO  ALEXANDRIA 


301 


bridge  across  it  is  guarded  by  British  lions  at  both  ends.  The  guide 
pointed  out  an  island  in  the  river,  and  told  us  that  tradition  says 
that  it  was  there  that  Pharaoh’s  daughter  found  Moses  in  the  ark  of 
bulrushes.  A ride  of  seven  miles  brought  us  to  the  Pyramids — one 
of  the  seven  wonders  of  the  world.  They  are  built  on  a rock  of 
considerable  height  on  the  edge  of  the  Great  Desert.  The  largest 
covers  thirteen  acres,  and  is  four  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high.  The 
next  largest  is  on  higher  ground,  and  appears  to  be  the  higher  of 
the  two,  though  it  is  much  smaller.  The  others  are  insignificant  in 
comparison.  They  were  once  covered  with  smooth  stones.  These 
smooth  stones  were  taken  away  by  the  Arabs  and  used  in  building 
mosques.  The  surface  now  resembles  a staircase.  The  Bedouins 
took  us  in  charge  at  once.  With  one  holding  each  hand  the  ascent 
was  easily  and  speedily  made.  Several  times  we  stopped  to  take 
breath  and  to  study  these  great  works.  From  the  top  we  got  a view 
of  the  whole  country  adjacent.  The  longer  we  gazed  at  the  Pyra- 
mids the  more  wonderful  they  appeared.  They  grew  on  our  thought 
and  assumed  colossal  proportions.  On  our  descent  we  went  in  and 
explored  the  different  chambers.  We  saw  some  empty  coffins,  but 
nothing  else.  We  felt  relieved  when  we  got  out.  Evidently,  the 
Pyramids  were  built  as  royal  sepulchres.  There  are  other  tombs  on 
the  same  platform.  These  are  above  the  flood  of  the  Nile,  and  not 
far  from  Memphis,  one  of  the  ancient  capitals.  The  Bedouins  were 
clamorous  for  pay  and  for  backsheesh.  Those  who  rendered  no 
service  wished  to  be  paid  for  their  good  intentions.  Every  man 
thought  we  ought  to  satisfy  him  before  leaving.  They  see  the 
stranger  but  once,  and  they  think  that  it  behooves  them  to  make 
the  most  of  that  one  opportunity.  From  the  Pyramids  we  walked 
over  to  see  the  Sphinx.  This  great  figure  has  the  head  of  a woman, 
and  the  body  of  a lion.  Once  the  head  was  adorned  with  a helmet 
and  a beard.  Near  by  we  saw  the  foundations  of  a temple.  The 
size  of  the  stones  that  are  still  in  place  give  one  some  conception  of 
the  grandeur  of  the  building.  These  huge  blocks  of  granite  were 
brought  down  the  Nile  from  Assouan.  On  our  return  to  Cairo  we 
learned  that  the  Syrian  ports  kept  all  passengers  from  Egypt  in 
quarantine  ten  days.  This  is  on  account  of  the  cholera  in  Cairo  and 
Alexandria.  I did  not  know  this  till  I was  in  the  trap.  The  prob- 
lem now  is  how  to  get  out.  I must  go  up  to  Jerusalem,  but  I do 
not  like  to  remain  in  quarantine  on  board  a ship,  or  in  a lazaretto 
in  Beirut  for  ten  days. 

I visited  more  than  once  the  missions  of  the  United  Presby- 
terians of  America.  I met  all  the  workers.  I attended  their  mid- 


302 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


week  prayer-meeting,  visited  their  school  for  boys,  and  saw  the 
chapel.  Like  all  such  buildings  in  the  East,  the  men  sit  on  one  side 
and  the  women  on  the  other.  There  is  a screen  between.  Drs. 
Harvey  and  Watson  and  their  associates  gave  me  many  facts  about 
the  mission.  Some  of  these  I add:  The  mission  began  forty-two 
years  ago.  Since  that  time  the  workers  have  been  increased,  sta- 
tions occupied,  schools  opened,  Scriptures  distributed,  preachers 
trained,  and  churches  organized.  In  all  the  principal  cities  of  the 
Delta  missionaries  are  stationed,  and  the  smaller  places  are  visited 
by  evangelists  and  colporteurs.  In  the  Upper  Country  the  work  is 
in  a flourishing  condition.  The  missionaries  number  forty-one;  the 
native  ordained  pastors,  nineteen;  the  whole  number  of  workers, 
three  hundred  and  sixty-seven;  the  communicants  five  thousand  and 
four;  churches,  thirty-seven;  other  preaching  places,  one  hundred 
and  fifty-three.  Of  the  converts  seventy  were  Moslems.  In  one 
hundred  and  twent}T-five  Sunday-schools  there  were  six  thousand 
six  hundred  and  twenty-two  pupils.  There  are  one  hundred  and 
sixty-one  day  schools — one  hundred  and  thirty-six  for  boys,  and 
twenty-five  for  gills.  These  schools  have  ten  thousand  eight  hun- 
dred and  seventy-four  pupils  enrolled.  There  are  three  high 
schools  for  boys,  with  seven  hundred  and  eighty  pupils,  and  five  for 
girls,  with  one  thousand  and  fifty-seven  pupils.  One-fifth  of  the 
scholars  are  Mohammedans.  In  ten  years  the  attendance  has 
doubled.  The  mission  has  a college  at  Assiout.  This  college  began 
in  1865  in  a stable;  the  donkeys  were  at  one  end  and  the  boys 
at  the  other.  Now  it  has  substantial  buildings  and  four  hun- 
dred and  twenty  students.  This  school  has  trained  pastors, 
teachers,  doctors,  lawyers,  journalists,  authors,  newspaper  cor- 
respondents, interpreters,  merchants,  farmers,  mechanics;  it  has 
prepared  men  for  the  postal,  railway,  telegraph,  police,  justice, 
finance,  and  war  departments.  The  Theological  Seminary  is  in 
Cairo;  it  has  a three  years’  course.  The  mission  was  not  content 
with  educating  boys;  it  desired  to  raise  up  a generation  of  educated 
Christian  women,  who  should  build  up  Christian  homes  in  Egypt. 
In  addition  to  the  primary  schools,  there  are  two  advanced  board- 
ing schools  for  girls  with  two  hundred  and  fifty  enrolled.  The  larg- 
est school  of  this  kind  in  Egypt  is  in  Cairo.  It  has  seventy-nine 
boarders,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty-three  day  pupils.  In  these 
schools  many  wives  have  been  trained.  The  hearts  of  their  hus- 
bands do  safely  trust  in  them.  In  1854  there  was  scarcely  a woman 
in  the  land  able  to  read;  now  there  are  two  thousand  three  hundred 
and  thirty-two  girls  attending  school.  The  mission  employs  twent}- 


FROM  ISMAILIA  TO  ALEXANDRIA 


303 


seven  colporteurs.  These  sold  last  year  sixty-two  thousand  one 
hundred  and  thirty  volumes.  These  serve  as  pioneer  evangelists  as 
well.  There  are  forty-nine  special  workers  among  the  women  in 
their  homes.  They  have  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy- 
two  regular  pupils.  They  reach  Mohammedans,  Copts,  Jews  and 
Greek  Catholics.  In  the  hospitals,  fifteen  thousand  are  annually 
treated.  The  patients  are  brought  under  Christian  influences  while 
in  the  hospitals.  Papers  are  printed  and  scattered  far  and  near. 
The  mission  received  last  year  from  the  people  of  Egypt  for  the 
support  of  the  work,  $38,468.  The  native  church  pays  about  one- 
half  the  entire  expense  of  the  mission.  Ninety  schools  are  self- 
supporting.  The  gain  in  converts  and  in  liberality  is  constant.  I 
rejoiced  with  these  saintly  workers,  and  came  away  feeling  increas- 
ingly confident  of  the  regeneration  of  Egypt. 

It  was  in  Cairo  that  Miss  Whately  did  her  great  work.  She 
went  there  expecting  to  remain  a few  months.  Seeing  the  degra- 
dation of  the  women  she  opened  a school  for  poor  girls.  Until  the 
work  outgrew  her  means  she  bore  all  the  expense.  She  began  with 
nine  girls.  On  their  first  appearance  they  were  not  very  attractive. 
Cleanliness  is  not  an  Arab  virtue.  Mothers  think  that  plenty  of 
dirt  protects  the  child  against  the  evil  eye.  For  a time  work  was 
carried  on  in  the  face  of  great  disadvantages  and  discouragements. 
It  is  hard  to  teach  people  who  are  utterly  ignorant  and  who  do  not 
prize  knowledge.  Besides  she  could  not  then  speak  fluently  in 
Arabic,  and  she  had  no  efficient  helpers.  But  God  sent  her  two 
qualified  teachers.  It  was  not  long  till  a school  for  boys  was  opened. 
By  practicing  the  most  rigid  self-denial  she  was  able  to  pay  the  rent 
and  teachers.  Her  assistants  preached  the  Gospel  in  the  surround- 
ing country  and  in  the  towns  along  the  Nile.  She  hired  a boat,  and 
with  her  sister  engaged  in  the  same  work.  On  one  of  her  tours  the 
people  were  so  impressed  with  her  message  that  they  said,  “Bring 
out  the  aged,  that  they  may  hear  the  word  of  God  before  they  die.” 
A hospital  was  opened  and  several  thousand  patients  were  treated 
annually.  She  pleaded  with  the  Bedouins  to  accept  Christ;  she 
went  into  the  streets  and  slums  and  told  the  people  of  the  love  of 
God;  she  induced  story-tellers  to  read  and  x-epeat  the  Gospel  mes- 
sage. The  woi’k  grew  in  her  hands.  God  sent  her  friends  and 
helpers  and  means.  When  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales  visited 
Egypt,  the  Khedive  gave  her  some  ground.  On  this  suitable  build- 
ings have  been  erected.  She  became  widely  known  and  pi'ofoundly 
respected.  In  streets  where  once  she  was  pelted  with  dirt  and 
reviled  as  the  “cursed  Nazarene,”  she  was  met  by  the  salutation, 


304 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


“ Blessed  be  thy  hands  and  feet,  O lady.”  Some  people  said  of  her 
and  her  associates,  “These  women  will  surely  go  to  Paradise,  even 
though  they  are  Christians.”  Her  death  was  mourned  by  all  who 
knew  her.  Miss  Whately  did  good  work,  and  “ the  day  shall  declare 
it.”  She  spent  thirty  years  in  that  delightful  service.  She  was 
one  of  the  first  to  labor  among  Mohammedan  women  in  Egypt. 
She  died,  but  her  work  lives  and  grows.  In  addition  to  the  missions 
already  alluded  to,  the  Church  Missionary  Society  is  at  work  in 
Cairo.  I saw  a German  and  an  English  Church.  These  are  for  the 
people  of  these  nations  living  here. 

Two  other  places  were  immensely  interesting,  namely,  the 
Museum  of  Gizeh  and  the  Mohammedan  university.  The  museum 
is  stored  with  Egyptian  antiquities.  One  sees  innumerable  mum- 
mies. The  Egyptians  embalmed  not  only  human  beings,  but  sacred 
bulls,  and  crocodiles,  and  goats,  and  fish,  and  birds.  In  the  tombs 
they  placed  jewels,  grain,  clothing,  money,  gods  and  other  things. 
This  museum  is  worth  many  visits.  One  feels  curious  as  one  looks 
on  the  face  of  the  king  who  oppressed  the  Hebrews  and  upon  the 
representations  of  men  who  lived  at  the  same  time  as  Joseph,  and 
perhaps  long  before.  I saw  the  Kosetta  Stone.  It  was  by  the  study 
of  the  trilingual  inscription  on  this  stone  that  the  hieroglyphics 
were  deciphered.  The  university  was  founded  by  the  Caliphs  in 
the  day  of  their  power,  and  has  changed  little  in  spirit  or  form 
since.  It  is  the  principal  Mohammedan  school  in  the  world.  The 
pupils  come  from  all  Moslem  countries  except  Persia,  and  number 
12,000.  At  the  door  we  met  with  men  who  put  slippers  over  our 
shoes  lest  they  should  touch  the  sacred  floor.  We  listened  to  sev- 
eral lectures  and  recitations.  Teachers  and  scholars  sit  on  mats. 
There  is  no  furniture  whatever.  Children  of  all  ages  were  writing 
on  tin  slates  or  telling  what  they  knew.  The  Koran  is  the  one  text- 
book. It  is  supposed  to  contain  all  knowledge  and  wisdom.  All 
laws  are  taken  from  it.  We  saw  some  of  “the  faithful”  engaged 
in  prayer.  Others  wei'e  chatting  in  an  undertone.  In  one  place 
barbers  were  plying  their  vocation.  Some  were  eating  bread  and 
onions  or  curd.  Hundreds  spread  their  mats  on  the  floor  of  the 
mosque,  which  is  the  home  of  the  university,  and  sleep.  This 
institution  is,  without  doubt,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  sights  in 
Egypt.  We  also  saw  the  Citadel,  the  Alabaster  Mosque,  Joseph’s 
Well,  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  and  the  Tombs  of  the  Mamelukes. 
I wanted  to  visit  Memphis,  Luxor,  Karnac,  and  Thebes,  but  could 
not  afford  the  time. 

From  Cairo  I went  to  Alexandria.  There  I met  John  Johnson, 


MOHAMMEDAN  UNIVERSITY.  CAIRO. 


DANCING  DERVISHES. 


FROM  ISMAILIA  TO  ALEXANDRIA 


305 


of  England.  He  is  now  working  with  the  North  African  Mission. 
This  mission  has  stations  in  Egypt,  Tunis,  Algeria,  and  Morocco. 
There  are,  in  all,  about  a hundred  workers.  The  mission  is  inter- 
denominational, and  is  on  the  same  lines  as  the  China  Inland  Mis- 
sion. The  support  is  meager,  but  the  workers  live  simple  and  joy- 
ous lives.  They  have  schools  and  hospitals,  and  preach  Christ  in 
season  and  out  of  season.  On  Sunday  we  went  to  the  Church  of 
Scotland.  The  minister  prayed  for  the  great  American  republic, 
for  the  officials  and  the  people.  He  preached  on  the  Galatians, 
taking  Professor  Ramsey’s  view,  that  the  Galatians  were  the 
churches  of  Derbe,  Lystra,  Iconium  and  Antioch  in  Pisidia.  He 
urged  his  hearers  to  guard  against  legalism,  and  to  stand  fast  in  the 
liberty  wherewith  Christ  had  made  them  free.  In  the  evening  I 
went  to  the  Church  of  England.  The  rector  has  a weak  voice.  I 
heard  a word  now  and  then.  Like  Tennyson’s  “ Northern  Farmer,” 
I thought  he  said  what  he  should  have  said  and  came  away.  On 
Monday  Mr.  Johnson  and  Mr.  Somers  went  with  me  to  see  the  city. 
We  went  to  the  top  of  the  light-house  and  got  a bird’s-eye  view  of 
Alexandria  and  the  country  round  about.  We  passed  the  site  of 
the  ancient  Pharos.  The  light-house  was  one  of  the  wonders  of  the 
ancient  world.  It  was  built  for  the  guidance  of  those  who  travel  by 
sea.  We  saw  Pompey’s  Pillar.  This  is  a shaft  of  granite  seventy- 
three  feet  high  and  thirty  feet  in  circumference.  It  must  have  been 
floated  down  the  Nile  from  Assouan.  We  examined  the  catacombs 
at  the  base  of  the  pillar,  but  saw  nothing  remarkable. 

Alexandria  was  founded  in  333  B.  C.,  and  was  for  a long  time 
the  greatest  city  on  the  globe.  Nineveh  and  Babylon  had  fallen 
and  Rome  had  not  risen  to  be  the  mistress  of  the  world.  For  two 
hundred  years  it  was  the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Egypt.  Under 
the  Ptolemies  it  was  a city  with  five  hundred  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  was  adorned  with  the  wealth  of  Egypt  and  the  arts  of  Greece. 
Omar  described  it  as  a place  with  four  thousand  palaces  and  a like 
number  of  baths,  four  hundred  places  of  amusement,  twelve  thou- 
sand gardens,  and  a Jewish  quarter  occupied  by  forty  thousand  peo- 
ple. Its  schools  were  the  best  in  existence.  They  inherited  the 
fame  of  the  schools  of  philosophy  in  Heliopolis,  the  city  that  had 
been  the  resort  of  Greek  sages  and  students.  Alexandria  became 
the  seat  of  learning  and  the  repository  of  all  the  wisdom  of  the 
Egyptians.  It  was  the  home  of  Pantaenus,  Hipparchus,  Theon, 
Hypatia,  Clement,  Origen,  Athanasius,  Cyril,  Dionysius,  and  others 
famous  for  all  time.  Here  was  the  great  library, having  on  its  ample 

shelves  seven  hundred  thousand  volumes,  and  whose  loss  is  still 
20 


306 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


deplored.  Here  the  Old  Testament  was  translated  into  Greek. 
From  this  place  the  eloquent  Apollos  went  to  build  up  the  church 
in  other  regions.  But  the  glory  has  departed.  The  rise  of  Cairo 
and  the  discovery  of  the  passage  around  the  CajDe  and  the  Suez 
Canal  have  taken  business  and  wealth  from  Alexandria.  The  popu- 
lation now  does  not  exceed  three  hundred  thousand;  at  one  time  it 
was  only  six  thousand.  Owing  to  its  situation  it  will  never  sink 
into  insignificance.  The  United  Presbyterians  and  the  British  and 
Foreign  Society  have  workers  there. 

For  the  student  of  history  Egypt  has  a strange  fascination.  It 
is  the  oldest  kingdom  of  which  we  have  any  record.  It  has  been 
called  a land  of  wonders  and  monuments,  a land  of  ruined  cities, 
palaces,  temples,  pyramids,  obelisks  and  hieroglyphics.  Once  it 
was  the  granary  of  the  world.  All  Egypt  has  an  area  of  382,523 
square  miles,  but  by  far  the  greater  part  of  this  is  desert.  Egypt 
proper,  consisting  of  the  Delta  and  the  Valley  of  the  Nile  as  far  as 
the  First  Cataract  and  the  oases  in  the  Libyan  Desert,  “the  islands 
of  the  blessed,”  has  an  area  of  about  14,000  square  miles.  From 
Cairo  to  the  First  Cataract  the  valley  is  about  ten  miles  wide;  from 
Cairo  to  the  sea  it  spreads  out  like  a triangle.  The  base  on  the 
Mediterranean  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  long  and  is  five  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  from  the  First  Cataract  as  the  crow  flies.  The 
cultivable  part  of  Egypt  is,  as  Herodotus  said,  “the  gift  of  the 
Nile.”  This  river  was  once  honored  as  a god.  The  being  and  the 
well-being  of  the  nation  depended  upon  it.  There  was  an  inscruta- 
ble mystery  as  to  its  source  and  the  cause  of  its  annual  rising  and 
falling.  Any  impossible  enterprise  was  spoken  of  as  an  attempt  to 
seek  the  source  of  the  Nile.  Now  all  mystery  has  been  cleared 
away.  Its  source  has  been  discovered  and  the  cause  of  its  rising 
ascertained.  None  the  less  is  it  a noble  stream,  and  the  source  of 
life  and  wealth  to  the  people.  The  Nile  is  nearly  as  long  as  the 
Mississippi.  At  Khartoum  the  blue  and  the  white  streams  unite. 
Fi'om  that  point  to  the  sea  it  receives  only  one  tributary;  for  a 
thousand  miles  it  receives  none.  All  through  Egypt  its  waters  are 
trained  off  into  canals  and  irrigating  ditches.  The  most  common 
sight  along  its  banks  is  the  shadoof,  the  rude  instrument  used  for 
raising  the  water  into  the  ditches. 

The  population  numbers  6,821,413.  The  Arabs  represent  the 
conquerors  of  the  seventh  century.  The  Bedouins  live  in  tents  and 
despise  civilization.  The  Copts  represent  the  ancient  Egyptians, 
and  constitute  one-tenth  of  the  population.  Beside  these  there  are 
Berbers,  Soudanese,  Turks,  Levantines,  Jews,  Gypsies,  Greeks, 


FROM  ISMAILIA  TO  ALEXANDRIA 


307 


Italians,  French,  Austrians,  English,  Germans.  It  is  said  that  six 
million  two  hundred  thousand  are  Mohammedans  and  six  hundred 
thousand  Christians.  The  Copts  are  Christians,  but  like  the  Abys- 
sinians,  Greeks,  Maronites,  Druses,  Jacobites,  Nestorians,  Arrne- 
mians  and  Bulgarians,  they  have  lost  their  first  love.  They  hold 
some  essential  truths,  but  they  are  mixed  with  much  error.  Egypt 
has  most  of  these  sects,  and  perhaps  many  more.  They  cling  to 
their  errors  as  a limpet  to  a rock,  and  are  not  willing  to  be  aroused 
out  of  their  lethargy.  The  Roman  Catholics  are  here  in  force. 
Whatever  we  may  think  of  some  of  their  tenets,  we  must  admire 
their  zeal.  Women  are  held  in  slight  esteem.  The  Koran  allows  a 
man  four  wives  and  as  many  slaves  as  his  right  hand  possesses.  A 
recent  Viceroy  had  five  hundred  women  in  his  harem.  There  is  no 
discrimination  on  account  of  color.  One  Bedouin  asked  me  if  I 
was  married.  When  I told  him,  he  said,  “ I have  two  wives  and 
will  sell  you  one  for  twenty  pounds.”  I was  afraid  to  offer  him 
twenty  piasters  lest  he  should  accept.  From  what  I have  seen  of 
the  veiled  houris  they  are  not  distressingly  adorable.  The  women 
are  married  in  childhood,  and  live  and  die  in  ignorance. 

The  Biblical  student  finds  much  said  about  this  land  in  the 
Scriptures.  It  was  here  that  God  molded  his  chosen  people  into  a 
nation.  Here  Moses  was  trained  for  the  great  task  to  which  he  was 
afterwards  called.  Here  God  wrought  signs  and  wonders,  and 
delivered  his  people  with  a mighty  arm.  Here  the  child  Jesus  found 
shelter  when  Herod  sought  to  destroy  him.  The  world  owes  much 
to  Egj’pt.  Here,  according  to  Dawson,  it  learned  its  first  lessons 
in  geometry,  chemistry,  medicine,  architecture,  and  sculpture.  Yet 
for  some  reason,  Egypt  was  “the  basest  of  kingdoms,”  “a  servant 
of  servants,”  and  was  trodden  under  foot  by  many,  by  the  Assyrian, 
the  Chaldean,  the  Persian,  the  Greek,  the  Roman,  the  Arab,  the 
Frank,  the  Briton.  She  has  now  the  best  government  she  has  ever 
had,  and  all  signs  indicate  the  dawn  of  a better  day.  With  the  advan- 
tages of  good  government,  with  schools  in  every  town  and  village, 
with  the  Gospel  preached  everywhere,  the  words  of  Jehovah  will 
have  a new  application  and  a new  significance,  “ Blessed  be  Egypt, 
my  people.” 


LI. 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  JAFFA.* 

1 left  Alexandria  thankful  that  1 had  been  kept  from  the  pesti- 
lence that  walks  in  darkness  and  from  the  destruction  that  wastes 
at  noonday.  Our  small  ship  was  crowded  with  people  rushing  away 
from  the  cholera.  The  cabins  were  full  and  the  decks  covered.  On 
a boat  with  a carrying  capacity  of  seventy-five,  we  had  267  passen- 
gers. The  officers  had  never  seen  anything  like  it.  There  was  a 
fresh  breeze  and  the  sea  ran  high.  Most  of  the  people  were  sick  in 
consequence.  For  a time  they  were  afraid  that  they  would  die; 
then  they  became  afraid  that  death  would  not  come  to  their  relief. 
On  occasion  the  Mediterranean  can  be  as  rough  as  the  Atlantic. 

We  called  at  Port  Said  and  spent  a day  there.  This  place  has  a 
bad  name.  It  is  said  to  be  worse  than  Sodom.  Some  captains  do 
not  allow  women  to  land.  I saw  little  wickedness.  I went  about 
the  streets  for  hours.  The  place  is  quiet,  even  to  dullness.  I fancy 
the  young  bloods  who  see  so  much  wickedness  in  Port  Said  take 
pains  to  look  for  it.  A salesman  said  to  my  cabin-mate  that  he  had 
some  pictures  that  he  would  show  him  if  he  would  go  into  a back 
room,  and  asked  him  if  he  wished  to  see  them.  He  said  “ no,”  with 
such  indignant  emphasis  that  the  fellow  looked  at  him  in  amaze- 
ment and  sneered,  “ missionary .”  He  is  a commercial  traveler,  an 
agent  for  a wholesale  liquor  house;  he  is  not  a missionary,  but  he 
has  no  relish  for  nastiness.  This  sneering  epithet  was  the  highest 
compliment  he  could  have  paid  this  class  of  Christian  workers. 

We  visited  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society  and  the  Sea- 
man’s Rest.  In  the  Rest  we  met  a Miss  Van  Zandt,  of  California. 
She  and  a Miss  Shaw,  from  the  same  State,  came  out  here  to  do 
missionary  work.  Miss  Van  Zandt  feels  that  she  has  been  definitely 
called  of  God  to  Port  Said.  She  is  in  the  very  place  where  he 
wants  her,  and  she  is  unspeakably  happy.  She  said  she  is  like  a tree 
planted  by  the  rivers  of  waters,  that  bringeth  forth  fruit  in  its  sea- 
son; its  leaf  also  shall  not  wither;  and  whatsoever  she  does  shall 
prosper.  She  has  had  so  many  unmistakable  evidences  of  God’s 
favor  that  she  can  not  doubt  that  she  is  in  the  right  place.  She  is 
learning  Arabic,  that  she  may  be  able  to  work  among  the  natives. 
There  is  no  other  mission  work  here.  There  is  an  English  church, 

308 


*The  Joppa  of  tne  Bible. 


AN  ARAB  SCHOOL. 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  JAFFA 


309 


but  it  is  for  the  English;  it  does  nothing  for  the  Egyptians.  Port 
Said  is  at  the  entrance  to  the  Suez  Canal.  It  is  a commercial  port, 
and  is  destined  to  grow  in  numbers,  in  business  and  in  wealth.  It 
is  a strategic  point,  and  should  be  occupied  by  a strong  staff. 

Instead  of  going  to  Jaffa  directly,  we  went  to  Beirut,  in  Syria, 
to  spend  ten  days  in  quarantine.  Jaffa  has  a bad  harbor  and  no 
quarantine  accommodations.  We  spent  a night  and  a day  on  the 
Mediterranean.  We  saw  few  ships.  Yet  we  were  sailing  in  front  of 
the  most  interesting  of  all  lands  and  in  front  of  what  was  once  the 
commercial  center  of  the  globe.  The  first  land  we  saw  was  Mt. 
Carmel.  We  were  reminded  of  Elijah’s  contest  with  the  priests  of 
Baal,  and  of  the  cloud  no  larger  than  a man’s  hand,  seen  by  the 
servant  of  the  prophet.  Toward  evening  we  dropped  anchor  in  St. 
George’s  Bay.  Here,  according  to  tradition,  St.  George  killed  the 
dragon.  Before  us  lies  Beirut.  The  buildings  belonging  to  the 
American  Mission  occupy  a conspicuous  position  and  can  be  seen 
from  afar.  In  the  background  is  “ grand  old  Lebanon  with  a dia 
dem  of  stars  around  his  snowy  turban,  looking  for  all  the  world  like 
some  august  monarch  of  the  universe,  with  his  head  in  heaven  and 
his  feet  on  the  sea.”  In  Beirut,  it  is  said,  Christianity  early  gained 
a foothold,  and  became  the  seat  of  a bishopric.  An  earthquake 
shook  the  place  and  ruined  the  city,  overthrowing  colleges, 
churches,  theaters,  palaces,  and  burying  many  hundreds  of  all 
classes  under  the  debris.  Many  villages  are  seen  on  the  sides  and 
crest  of  Lebanon.  Sixty  miles  distant  is  Damascus,  and  near 
Damascus  are  Baalbeck  and  Palmyra.  It  would  be  a pleasing 
experience  to  visit  these  places,  but  we  are  in  quarantine,  and  can 
not  go  ashore  for  any  purpose.  For  several  days  the  sea  was  rough. 
The  eating  saloon  is  fitted  up  with  berths,  and  the  men  and  women 
and  children  that  occupied  them  were  in  all  stages  of  sea-sickness. 
They  were  groaning  and  vomiting  all  the  time.  The  sights  and 
sounds  and  smells  were  not  conducive  to  comfort  or  appetite.  A 
strong  stomach  and  philosophic  mind  are  worth  more  to  a traveler 
than  rubies.  The  food  was  abundant,  and  not  bad;  the  cooking 
suited  those  to  the  manner  born  better  than  strangers;  but  the 
toothpicks  were  the  best  I have  seen  since  leaving  home.  In  fact,  I 
do  not  see  how  they  could  be  better.  One  bottle  of  wine  is  served 
to  each  passenger  at  luncheon,  another  at  dinner,  and  rum  and  cog- 
nac at  tea.  The  rules  say  that  if  anyone  wishes  a greater  quantity, 
or  at  different  times,  he  must  pay  extra  for  it.  The  supply  would 
seem  to  be  ample.  The  rules  amused  me.  One  states  that  passen- 
gers, as  persons  of  education,  are  expected  to  treat  each  other  with 


310 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


respect  and  to  pay  due  regard  to  the  fair  sex.  When  women  smoke 
and  drink  as  much  as  men,  which  sex  is  fair?  And  which  is  foul? 
I wish  to  know.  We  have  on  this  ship  a most  unique  collection  of 
fat  women.  There  is  nothing  like  it  on  the  planet.  On  what  meat 
do  they  feed  that  they  have  grown  so  great?  The  men  cannot  com- 
pare with  their  affectionate  spouses. 

To  spend  ten  days  on  a ship  in  quarantine  is  not  the  most 
delightful  experience  imaginable.  We  had  the  consolation  of  know- 
ing that  the  thousands  in  the  lazaretto  on  the  shore  are  immeas- 
urably more  uncomfortable.  Some  read  and  write,  and  read  and 
sleep.  Others  play  cards,  sing,  talk,  and  long  for  the  close  of  the 
tenth  day.  The  words  of  the  hymn  have  new  meaning,  “ Fly 
swifter  round,  ye  wheels  of  time.”  The  experience  is  all  the 
harder  because  we  know  that  there  is  no  need  of  any  quarantine. 
Neither  England,  nor  Austria,  nor  Italy  feels  any  danger.  Cholera 
microbes  could  not  live  in  this  atmosphere  ten  seconds.  The 
stenches  would  poison  them  in  an  instant.  One  day  we  were  taken 
ashore  to  be  fumigated.  As  the  ship  had  no  bath-room  and  no 
soap,  it  would  seem  that  something  of  the  kind  was  necessary.  We 
were  taken  to  some  rickety  sheds  and  were  obliged  to  wait  there  for 
hours.  There  was  no  bench  or  chair  on  which  we  could  rest.  The 
bedding  and  clothing  of  the  deck  passengers  were  steamed.  The 
sailors  were  asked  to  put  on  some  clothes  belonging  to  the  station 
while  theirs  were  being  cleansed.  The  clothes  offered  them  were  so 
foul  with  vermin  and  filth  that  they  refused  to  put  them  on.  This 
resulted  in  a dead-lock  which  lasted  for  an  hour.  The  first  and 
second-class  people  were  taken  into  a room  and  sprayed.  One  man 
held  the  nozzle  and  the  other  turned  the  crank.  In  ten  seconds  the 
work  was  done.  The  quarantine  officers  themselves  needed  to  be 
soaked  and  scraped.  They  were  filthier  than  any  on  the  ship.  The 
whole  performance  was  a roaring  farce.  We  were  pronounced 
“clean,”  but  we  were  no  cleaner  than  before.  Those  who  pro- 
nounced the  word  ought  to  have  placed  their  hands  on  their  mouths, 
and  their  mouths  in  the  dust  and  cried,  “ unclean,  unclean.”  When, 
on  the  last  day,  officers  came  on  board  to  collect  twelve  francs  from 
each  passenger,  we  understood  why  we  were  kept  in  quarantine. 
The  government  is  bankrupt,  and  here  was  a chance  to  get  some 
ready  money.  The  nation  loses  more  than  it  gains;  the  policy  is 
short-sighted  and  opposed  to  all  good  sense.  No  matter  for  that. 
It  yields  some  money  to-day;  to-morrow  can  take  care  of  itself. 
The  night  before  our  release  we  had  an  illumination.  The  passen- 
gers and  crew  bought  fireworks,  and  turned  night  into  day.  When 


FROM  ALEXAXDRIA  TO  JAFFA 


311 


the  yellow  flag  was  hauled  down  and  we  were  free  to  go  ashore,  our 
joy  was  boundless. 

I called  to  see  the  Presbyterian  missionaries.  Americans  have 
been  at  work  in  Syria  for  seventy  years.  There  are  now  sixteen 
men  and  twenty-three  women  on  the  staff.  Some  of  the  best 
known  men  are:  Drs.  Bliss,  Porter,  Van  Dyck,  Post,  Jessup,  and 
Schauffler.  Others  equally  noted  have  been  connected  with  the 
mission  in  former  years.  There  are  five  central  stations:  Beirut; 
Tripoli,  with  twenty-seven  out-stations,  and  reaching  to  Aleppo; 
Abeih,  in  Mt.  Lebanon,  with  twenty-eight  out-stations;  Zaleh  in 
Ccele-Syria,  with  nineteen  out-stations;  Sidon,  with  twenty-four 
out-stations,  and  reaching  nearly  to  Galilee  and  Nazareth.  The 
methods  of  work  are:  Preaching,  teaching,  publishing,  and  healing 
the  sick.  The  Gospel  is  preached  at  ninety-one  places.  In  the 
127  primary  schools  there  are  6,384  pupils,  while  hundreds  are  being 
trained  in  the  high  schools,  seminaries  and  academies.  The  Syrian 
Protestant  College  has  292  students  in  the  Preparatory,  Collegiate, 
and  Medical  departments.  The  Theological  Seminary  has  a strong 
corps  of  teachers.  The  large  hospital  belonging  to  the  Knights  of 
St.  John  is  under  the  control  of  the  medical  men  in  the  mission. 
Last  year  10,314  patients  were  treated  in  the  polyclinic.  An  indus- 
trial school  and  an  orphanage  for  boys  have  been  organized  in  Sidon. 
The  Mission  Press  prints  25,000,000  pages  a year.  The  Bibles  circu- 
lated by  the  Levant  Agency  in  sixty  years  number  1,550,000.  The 
Church  of  Scotland  has  a missiou  to  the  Jews  in  Beirut.  The 
Society  for  the  support  of  British  Syrian  Schools  has  seven  schools 
and  a training  institution;  the  Kaiserwerth  Deaconesses  have  an 
orphanage  and  a boarding  school  for  girls,  there  are  schools  for 
blind  men  and  women.  Miss  Taylor  has  a school  for  Moslem  girls. 
The  United  Presbyterians  are  at  work  in  Latakia,  and  the  Irish 
Presbyterians  in  Damascus.  I visited  the  college  in  Beirut.  The 
buildings  are  large  and  suitable.  The  hospital  is  all  that  could  be 
desired.  This  mission  has  been  greatly  blessed  in  its  workers  and 
in  its  work.  The  Syrians  speak  in  high  praise  of  the  American 
mission. 

It  was  hoped  by  many,  years  ago,  that  the  missionaries  could 
reform  the  churches  of  the  East  from  within.  These  churches  were 
not  willing  to  be  reformed.  When  Bird  and  Goodell  came  to  Beirut, 
the  Patriarch  of  the  Maronites  launched  his  curse  on  the  man  that 
rented  them  a house.  The  whole  family  was  excommunicated. 
“Let  the  curse  envelop  them  as  a robe,  and  spread  through  all 
their  members  like  oil,  and  break  them  in  pieces  like  a potter’s  ves- 


312 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


sel,  and  wither  them  like  the  fig-tree  cursed  by  our  Lord  himself. 
And  let  evil  angels  rule  over  them,  to  torment  them  day  and  night, 
asleep  or  awake,  and  in  whatever  circumstances  they  may  be  found. 
We  permit  no  one  to  visit  them,  or  employ  them,  or  do  them  a 
favor,  or  give  them  salutation,  or  converse  with  them  in  any  form, 
but  let  them  be  avoided  as  a putrid  member  and  as  hellish  dragons.” 
When  the  Friends  began  work  in  Palestine  and  Syria  the  priests 
said,  “ Cursed  be  you  if  you  look  at  this  English  missionary,  because 
he  is  not  sent  from  God,  but  by  the  devil.”  When  they  bought  a 
plot  of  ground  on  Mt.  Lebanon  for  a training  house  they  said, 
“Cursed  be  this  place!  Let  no  grass  grow  upon  it,  nor  flower 
bloom  upon  it;  let  no  tree  grow  upon  this  cursed  place;  cursed  to 
eternity,  because  it  belongs  to  the  English  people.”  The  place 
flourished,  nevertheless.  But  those  priestly  anathemas  reveal  the 
mental  attitude  of  these  churches  toward  all  who  may  seek  to  arouse 
them  out  of  the  slumber  of  ages. 

I found  T.  R.  Gibson,  the  American  Consul,  a very  genial  fellow. 
While  I was  in  quarantine  he  wrote  me  a kind  letter  and  sent  me  a 
bundle  of  papers.  Mr.  Gibson  is  from  Augusta,  Georgia,  and  knows 
the  Lamars,  and  the  Pendletons,  and  George  Darsie,  and  Z.  T. 
Sweeney,  and  C.  S.  Lucas.  He  has  the  hospitality  of  the  Southland. 
I spent  several  pleasant  hours  with  him  and  Dr.  Schaufiler  in  the 
consulate.  I shall  remember  their  kindness  many  a long  day. 

As  the  sun  was  setting,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  steered  away 
toward  Jaffa,  reaching  our  destination  at  daybreak.  Though  Jaffa 
has  a bad  harbor,  it  is  the  best  on  the  coast  of  Palestine.  Here 
Hiram  sent  the  timber  for  Solomon’s  temple.  From  Jaffa,  Jonah 
started  on  his  memorable  voyage.  Here  all  pilgrims  going  to  Jeru- 
salem land. 


JERUSALEM. 


st.  peter’s,  rome. 


LII. 


FROM  JAFFA  TO  JERUSALEM  AND  RETURN. 

It  was  in  Jaffa  that  the  Lord  taught  Peter  that  he  was  to  call  no 
man  common  or  unclean.  He  was  on  the  housetop  of  Simon,  a 
tanner,  at  the  time.  This  house  is  still  pointed  out.  On  the  roof  I 
read  the  account  of  Peter’s  vision.  The  guide  took  me  to  the  site 
of  the  home  of  Dorcas.  It  was  in  this  city  that  she  did  her  good 
works  and  alms-deeds.  Her  return  to  life  caused  many  to  believe 
in  the  Lord.  The  influence  of  this  woman  has  been  felt  in  every 
part  of  Christendom.  J.  E.  Hanauer,  an  agent  of  the  London 
Jews’  Society,  is  stationed  here.  He  preaches  to  those  who  will 
listen,  meets  inquirers  in  the  Book  Depot,  visits  the  people  in  their 
homes,  and  goes  out  to  the  Jewish  colonies  near  Jaffa.  He  has 
Jewish  blood  in  his  veins,  was  born  in  Palestine,  speaks  several 
languages,  and,  as  far  as  I could  judge,  is  a capital  man  for  the 
place.  I found  him  an  intelligent  and  agreeable  gentleman.  The 
Church  Missionary  Society  is  at  work  among  the  Moslems  and 
others.  Mr.  Wolters  is  at  the  head  of  the  mission.  In  the  boys’ 
school  there  are  one  hundred  and  thirty  pupils  and  four  teachers. 
Miss  Arnott,  a Scotch  lady  of  means,  has  undertaken  to  educate  the 
girls  at  Jaffa.  She  has  a large  boarding  school  and  five  day  schools. 
The  Church  Society  has  several  deaconesses  here.  I met  Miss 
Armstrong  and  Miss  Newton  only.  They  visit  the  women  in  the 
city  and  in  the  district.  The  British  Hospital  is  the  principal  relig- 
ious institution  in  Jaffa.  It  was  built  by  Miss  Bessie  Mangan,  the 
daughter  of  an  Irish  clergyman.  She  had  a small  fortune,  and 
came  to  Palestine  to  work  at  her  own  charges.  Within  a year 
after  her  arrival  she  started  a medical  work.  She  learned  dressing, 
bandaging  and  dispensing.  She  opened  the  hospital  with  twenty 
patients.  The  new  building  has  forty-five  beds.  The  in-patients 
number  four  hundred  and  seventy-eight;  the  out-patients  nearly 
thirteen  thousand.  The  staff  consists  of  one  physician,  six  deacon- 
esses, one  dispenser,  and  two  ward  attendants.  In  the  chapel  there 
is  a service  before  every  clinic.  Most  of  the  patients  are  Moslems. 
A few  are  Jews,  Druses,  Roman  Catholics,  Protestants  and  Maron- 
ites.  The  walls  are  adorned  with  texts  in  different  languages.  The 

313 


314 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


New  Testament  is  within  the  reach  of  all.  Miss  Watson  took  me 
all  over  the  premises.  The  wards  are  clean  and  neat  and  cheerful. 
The  faces  of  the  nurses  are  bright  and  joyous.  The  patients  mani- 
fest their  gratitude  in  many  ways.  They  kiss  the  hands  and  feet  of 
those  who  care  for  them.  Some  are  hard  to  manage.  They  swal- 
low a box  of  pills  or  powders  in  the  papers  and  eat  forbidden  fruit. 
The  deaconesses  go  out  into  the  villages  near  Jaffa.  Men  and 
women  gather  about  them  and  ask  to  hear  something  from  the 
Book.  They  conduct  mothers’  meetings,  a school  for  Moslem  girls, 
and  night  schools,  and  a Bible-class  for  young  men.  Thousands  of 
Moslems  hear  the  Gospel  every  year.  The  light  and  love  and  life 
seen  in  this  hospital  must  tell  on  the  surrounding  darkness.  Miss 
Mangan,  on  one  Christmas  eve,  made  a feast  for  beggars.  The 
blind,  lame,  diseased,  people  without  hands  or  feet,  cancerous,  epi- 
leptic, in  rags  and  dirt  and  loathsomeness  unspeakable,  assembled 
around  her  Christmas  tree  to  hear  the  truth  and  to  be  warmed  and 
tilled.  Years  ago  this  saintly  woman  went  to  her  reward.  Miss 
Newton  succeeded  her  as  superintendent  of  the  work. 

In  the  afternoon  I took  the  train  for  Jerusalem.  Some  think 
this  was  what  Isaiah  had  in  mind  when  he  spoke  of  “ a highway  and 
a way  ” over  which  the  ransomed  of  the  Lord  shall  return  and  come 
to  Zion  with  songs  and  everlasting  joy  upon  their  heads.  This  can 
hardly  be  so,  for  the  prophet  said,  “ The  unclean  shall  not  pass  over 
it .”  The  train  took  us  through  the  fertile  plain  of  Sharon.  In  one 
field  I saw  a reaper  at  work ; in  all  the  others  the  harvesters  used 
the  sickle.  The  first  stop  was  at  Lydda.  It  was  here  that  iEneas 
had  been  sick  of  the  palsy  for  eight  years.  To  him  Peter  said, 
‘LEneas,  Jesus  Christ  maketh  thee  whole;  arise,  and  make  thy 
bed.”  This  miracle  led  all  that  dwelt  at  Lydda  and  Sharon  to  turn 
to  the  Lord.  From  this  place  Peter  went  to  Joppa  at  the  urgent 
call  of  the  disciples,  when  Dorcas  died.  Our  next  stop  was  at  Ratu- 
leh.  Tradition  says  this  was  the  Arimathea  of  the  Gospels.  The 
guide  pointed  out  the  valley  of  Ajalon  and  said  that  it  was  over  it 
Joshua  commanded  the  moon  to  stand  still.  Far  up  the  mountain 
he  called  attention  to  a place  which  is  said  to  be  Beth-hoi’on.  We 
passed  through  Samson’s  country,  and  saw  the  place  where  he 
caught  the  three  hundred  foxes  whose  tails  he  tied  together  with 
firebrands  between  them  before  sending  them  into  the  standing  corn 
of  the  Philistines.  We  passed  near  Beth-Shemesh.  It  was  in 
Ekron  that  the  Philistines  laid  the  ark  on  a new  cart  drawn  by  two 
milch  kine  whose  calves  were  kept  at  home.  The  kine  followed  the 
highway  till  they  came  to  the  border  of  Beth-Shemesh.  We  saw 


FROM  JAFFA  TO  JERUSALEM  AND  RETURN 


315 


the  ancient  Bether.  It  was  here  that  the  Jewish  nation,  as  such, 
ceased  to  exist.  After  a war  with  the  Romans,  lasting  three  years 
and  a half,  under  Bar-Cochba,  a false  Messiah,  eight  hundred  thou- 
sand Jews  were  put  to  death.  Our  train  reached  the  Jerusalem 
station  before  sunset. 

Once  Jerusalem  was  beautiful  for  situation,  the  joy  of  the 
whole  earth.  “Glorious  things  are  spoken  of  thee,  Zion,  city  of 
our  God.”  The  Psalmist  said,  “Walk  about  Zion,  and  go  round 
about  her;  tell  the  towers  thereof,  mark  ye  well  her  bulwarks,  con- 
sider her  palaces.”  In  Solomon’s  time  silver  was  as  plentiful  as 
stones.  It  is  not  now.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked  and 
filthy.  They  are  badly  paved,  and  are  neither  lighted  nor  sewered. 
The  water  brought  in  from  Solomon’s  Pools  has  been  cut  off.  The 
people  are  extremely  poor.  Beggars  are  everywhere.  I saw  no 
palace  and  no  home  that  looked  as  if  it  was  occupied  by  a family 
possessed  of  wealth  and  culture.  I was  told  that  out  of  the  forty 
thousand  Jews  in  the  city  not  more  than  four  are  rich.  The  govern- 
ment is  the  worst  on  the  globe.  There  is  no  incentive  to  industry 
and  economy.  If  a man  is  successful  he  deems  it  prudent  to  hide 
his  wealth.  Nevertheless,  Jerusalem  is  a place  to  which  foreigners 
from  all  parts  of  the  world  come.  It  is  sacred  to  the  Christian,  to 
the  Jew  and  to  the  Moslem.  Here  the  most  stupendous  events  in 
the  history  of  our  race  took  place.  Six  miles  away  the  Son  of  the 
Highest  was  born.  In  this  city  he  preached  and  wrought  miracles. 
Here  he  was  tried  and  condemned.  Without  its  walls  he  was  cruci- 
fied and  buried.  He  rose  and  brought  life  and  immortality  to  light, 
and  charged  his  disciples  to  go  into  all  the  world  and  preach  the 
Gospel  to  the  whole  creation.  Near  by  he  ascended  to  the  Father. 
Here  the  apostles  tarried  till  the  Spirit  was  poured  out,  and  here  on 
the  day  of  Pentecost  the  first  Gospel  sermon  was  preached,  and 
three  thousand  souls  were  added.  To  the  Jews  Jerusalem  was  the 
city  of  the  great  King.  To  it  the  tribes  went  up  to  give  thanks  to 
the  name  of  the  Lord.  Jerusalem  was  the  center  of  all  their  hopes 
and  joys  and  aspirations.  “ Out  of  Zion,  the  perfection  of  beauty, 
God  hath  shined.”  To  the  Moslems  the  city  is  second  to  Mecca 
only. 

There  is  no  lack  of  religious  institutions.  The  Greeks  have  sev- 
enteen monasteries,  and  convents,  and  churches;  the  Latins  have 
fifteen,  while  the  Copts,  Armenians,  Syrians,  and  Abyssinians  have 
buildings  of  their  own.  In  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  there 
are  between  thirty  and  forty  chapels  and  places  of  devotion.  All 
the  Eastern  bodies  have  places  of  their  own.  These  sects  hate  each 


316 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


other  with  a perfect  hatred,  and  are  so  ready  to  fly  at  each  other’s 
throats  that  Turkish  soldiers  are  kept  on  guard  all  the  time  to  keep 
the  peace.  Bishops  and  priests  and  monks  and  nuns  swarm  on  the 
streets.  I was  informed  that  while  they  are  ready  to  compass  sea 
and  land  to  make  proselytes,  they  do  nothing  whatever  for  the  con- 
version of  Jews  and  Moslems.  If  a Jew  went  near  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  he  would  be  roughly  handled,  if  not  torn  to 
pieces.  Missions  in  Jerusalem  are  carried  on  by  three  societies  and 
by  some  independent  workers.  Fisk  and  Parsons,  agents  of  the 
American  Board,  were  the  first  missionaries  in  modern  times.  The 
American  Board,  after  some  years,  abandoned  the  field. 

Dr.  Barclay  spent  three  and  a half  years  here.  His  great  book 
is  still  regarded  as  one  of  the  best  on  Jerusalem.  The  London  Jewrs’ 
Society  has  a church,  schools  for  boys  and  girls,  a house  for  inquir- 
ers, in  which  they  are  taught  trades,  a book  depot,  and  a hospital. 
I went  through  all  the  buildings  and  saw  all  the  work.  Dr.  Wheeler 
and  his  associates  are  busy  early  and  late.  The  in-patients  in  one 
year  number  900;  the  prescriptions  45,575;  and  the  patients  visited 
in  their  own  homes,  5,676.  I went  with  him  part  of  one  day.  It  is 
impossible  to  describe  the  destitution  and  misery  of  these  poor  Jews. 
At  the  same  time  they  are  as  proud  as  Lucifer,  and  are  insolent, 
unmanageable,  and  unthankful.  Because  of  God’s  oath  to  Abra- 
ham they  are  going  to  be  saved  in  any  event;  the  coming  of  Christ 
is  a mere  detail.  The  Church  Missionary  Society  works  among  the 
Moslems  and  among  the  decayed  churches  of  the  East.  This 
Society  has  agents  in  Jerusalem,  Jaffa,  Nazareth,  Salt,  Nablous, 
Ramalleh,  Gaza,  Haifa,  Acca,  Ramleh,  Refer  Yasif,  and  Bir  Zeit. 
It  has  eleven  clerical,  four  lay,  twenty-five  female,  and  ten  native 
-workers.  It  has  forty-five  schools,  with  1,873  pupils;  544  commu- 
nicants; 232  in-patients,  and  37,263  out-patients.  Its  policy  is  to 
have  a church,  a hospital,  and  a school  at  each  station.  The  work- 
ers are  expected  to  go  into  the  towns  and  villages  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  publish  the’  good  tidings.  1 met  most  of  the  workers  in 
the  city.  In  Miss  Welch’s  school  there  are  135  girls  and  twelve  pre- 
paring to  teach.  I visited  the  famous  school  on  Mt.  Zion,  founded 
by  Bishop  Gobat.  There  are  fifty-four  boys  in  the  collegiate 
department  and  seventeen  in  the  theological.  When  this  school 
was  started  it  was  the  only  school  in  Palestine.  Now  there  are  a 
dozen  of  such  schools  conducted  by  the  Latins  and  Greeks.  Not 
only  so,  but  the  Turks  have  opened  schools  in  ever}’  central  town 
and  in  every  village,  and  have  prohibited  Moslem  children  from 


FROM  JAFFA  TO  JERUSALEM  AND  RETURN 


317 


attending  Christian  schools.  The  school  on  Mt.  Zion  has  more 
applicants  than  it  can  take. 

The  Germans  are  doing  a good  work.  Pastor  Schneller  has  an 
orphanage  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  boys  and  twenty  girls.  He  is 
enlarging  the  premises,  and  hopes  to  have  a thousand  in  a year  or 
two.  The  orphans  are  fed,  clothed,  educated,  and  taught  trades. 
The  cheerful  old  man  took  me  through  the  establishment  and 
showed  me  budding  carpenters,  blacksmiths,  potters,  turners,  shoe- 
makers, tailors,  printers,  binders,  and  teachers  and  evangelists.  He 
has  been  in  this  delightful  work  thirty-six  years.  From  the  orphan- 
age I went  to  the  Talitha  Kumi.  This  is  a school  for  girls  under  the 
control  of  the  Ivaiserwerth  Deaconesses.  There  are  one  hundred 
and  seventeen  boarders,  and  some  day  pupils.  The  girls  are  taught 
the  common  branches  and  housekeeping,  and  some  other  things. 
This  school  has  been  in  operation  for  fifty  years.  Across  the  way  is 
a large  hospital  under  the  same  management.  On  the  way  home  I 
called  at  the  Moravian  Leper  Asylum.  The  buildings  are  spacious 
and  attractive.  Scriptural  texts  cover  the  walls.  Some  of  the 
inmates  have  no  hands  or  eyes.  The  building  will  hold  fifty.  It  is 
not  more  than  half  full.  The  superintendent  told  me  that  lepers 
prefer  to  marry  and  beg  rather  than  submit  to  the  discipline  of 
the  asylum.  The  Germans  have  a church  in  the  city. 

Mr.  Ben-Oliel  and  family  are  independent  workers.  He  was 
born  in  Tangier  of  Jewish  parents.  He  claims  to  be  of  the  tribe  of 
Judah  and  of  David’s  line.  The  family  motto  is,  “Arise,  shine!  ” 
He  was  led  to  Christ  in  his  youth,  was  educated  for  the  ministry, 
and  has  spent  forty  years  in  the  service.  He  has  labored  in  Spain, 
in  Rome,  in  North  Africa,  in  Asia  Minor,  and  in  Palestine.  He 
speaks  eight  or  ten  different  languages.  In  his  own  hired  house  he 
meets  Jews  and  Greeks  and  Moslems,  and  preaches  the  kingdom  of 
God  and  teaches  those  things  that  pertain  to  the  Lord  Jesus.  In 
the  touring  season  he  conducts  sei'vices  in  an  upper  room.  Mrs. 
Ben-Oliel  has  a class  for  mothers;  Miss  Evangeline  has  a girls’ 
school,  Miss  Voltz  has  an  industrial  class.  Two  sons  are  in  school 
in  England,  one  is  in  Canada,  Miss  Floi’ence  is  at  work  in  the 
United  States  in  the  interest  of  the  mission.  I visited  this  family 
three  or  four  times.  Mr.  Ben-Oliel  took  me  to  the  top  of  the  house 
and  showed  me  the  city  and  its  surroundings.  He  pointed  out 
Gordon’s  Calvary,  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  the  Tower  of  David,  the 
Mount  of  Olives,  the  mountains  of  Moab  beyond  the  Valley  of  the 
Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea,  and  the  new  part  of  Jerusalem  without 
the  walls.  He  went  with  me  to  several  places  of  interest  and 


318 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


explained,  as  only  an  intelligent  enthusiast  can,  many  things  that 
were  obscure  to  me.  This  family  showed  me  no  little  kindness. 

Missionary  work  in  Palestine  is  carried  on  in  the  face  of  many 
difficulties.  The  government  is  openly  and  actively  hostile.  Since 
England’s  recent  humiliation  it  is  more  so  than  ever.  There  are 
decrees  that  accord  religious  liberty  to  all  Turkish  subjects.  Pro- 
fessedly, all  are  equal  before  the  law.  But  practically  it  is  not  so. 
If  a Moslem  should  confess  his  faith  in  Christ,  he  would  be  drafted 
into  the  army,  and  in  a few  days  he  would  die  from  poison  or  the 
sword.  Confession  means  death.  Among  the  Jews  a convert  is 
met  with  the  scorn,  contempt,  and  hatred  of  his  people.  He  must 
renounce  all  hope  of  help  which  otherwise  he  would  receive.  Most 
of  the  people  are  entirely  dependent  on  outside  support.  Their 
extreme  poverty  holds  them  back  from  avowing  the  truth.  The 
priests  warned  their  people  not  to  attend  the  school  conducted  by 
Miss  Ben-Oliel.  The  warning  run  thus:  “ If  sons  are  born  to  those 
who  disobey,  there  will  be  no  one  to  circumcise  them ; if  any  get 
married,  there  will  be  no  one  to  give  them  the  nuptial  blessings;  if 
any  die,  they  will  not  be  buried  with  the  Jews.”  In  the  Eastern 
churches  a convert  is  denounced  and  persecuted.  Bishop  Gobat 
hoped  to  reform  these  churches  from  within,  but  he  found  it  impos- 
sible to  do  this.  Those  who  called  for  reforms  were  driven  out. 
When  one  was  found  reading  the  Bible  he  was  required  to  kiss  a pict- 
ure or  kneel  before  it,  or  invoke  the  Virgin  or  some  other  saint,  or  else 
promise  not  to  read  the  Bible  any  more.  In  spite  of  all  these  hin- 
drances the  missionaries’  work  goes  on.  They  are  assured  that  God 
reigns,  and  that  no  power  will  be  able  to  prevail  against  him.  They 
are  permeating  society  with  Gospel  truths  and  with  new  ideas ; they 
are  making  the  people  restive  under  despotism  and  eager  for  a 
change ; they  are  preparing  them  to  come  out  and  confess  Christ  when 
the  day  of  freedom  comes.  They  are  driving  the  government  to  do 
what  it  never  dreamed  of  doing  before.  Thus  in  Nazareth  it  has  a 
girls’  school  with  700  enrolled;  in  Jerusalem  it  has  another  with  200 
pupils  and  a strong  staff.  Inquirei's  come  to  the  missionaries  and 
then  go  back  to  the  priests  for  answer.  They  do  this  again  and 
again,  and  compel  their  former  teachers  to  meet  their  arguments  or 
confess  that  they  cannot.  So  the  truth  spreads  and  the  kingdom  is 
advanced. 

I visited  the  churches,  convents  and  hospitals.  I saw  formal- 
ism, ritualism,  ceremonialism,  but  few  signs  of  spiritual  life  and 
power.  The  worshipers  kiss,  bow  and  pray,  and  go  away  as  they 
came.  Candles  are  burning  everywhere,  but  the  people  walk  in 


FROM  JAFFA  TO  JERUSALEM  AND  RETURN 


319 


darkness,  though  the  true  light  is  shining.  In  the  company  of  a 
soldier,  a messenger  from  the  Consulate,  and  a sheikh,  I visited  the 
Mosque  of  Omar  and  the  other  mosque  on  the  temple  area.  It  was 
on  this  mount  that  Abraham  offered  Isaac.  Here  was  the  threshing 
floor  of  Oman,  the  Jebusite,  where  the  plague  was  stayed.  Here 
Solomon  and  Nehemiah  and  Herod  each  built  a temple.  The 
mosque  is  a handsome  building.  Its  dome  is  the  most  conspicuous 
object  in  Jerusalem.  The  other  mosque  was  built  by  Justinian  as  a 
church.  One  cannot  help  being  thrilled  while  standing  on  ground 
trod  by  prophets  and  kings  and  apostles  and  by  the  Son  of  God. 
Leaving  the  sacred  inclosure,  we  came  to  the  Jews’  Place  of  Wail- 
ing. Men  and  women  were  kissing  the  stones  that  formed  part  of 
the  wall  around  the  temple,  and  weeping.  They  say  in  their  sorrow, 
“ The  holy  cities  are  a wilderness.  Zion  is  a wilderness,  Jerusalem 
a desolation.  Our  holy  and  beautiful  house,  where  our  fathers 
praised  thee,  is  burned  up  with  fire;  and  all  our  pleasant  things  are 
laid  waste.”  From  the  Psalms  and  Prophecies  and  Talmud  they 
select  appropriate  passages  to  express  their  grief. 

I found  a community  known  as  “The  Americans,”  though  most 
of  them  are  from  other  nations.  They  number  about  one  hundred. 
I tried  to  learn  their  principles  and  practices.  I found  them  more 
ready  to  argue  than  to  explain.  They  do  not  believe  in  preaching, 
and  hold  no  public  services.  They  quote,  “ The  life  was  the  light 
of  men.”  They  have  no  schools,  save  one  in  which  their  own  chil- 
dren are  taught.  Some  of  them  teach  in  three  Jewish  schools. 
They  teach  German,  French,  music  and  drawing.  If  any  one  is  sick 
they  offer  their  services  as  nurses.  If  any  come  to  them  in  need, 
they  do  what  they  can  to  afford  relief.  I asked  one  of  the  leading 
men  what  they  were  doing.  He  said:  “ We  are  waiting  on  God.  He 
said,  ‘ Thou  shalt  love  the  Lord  thy  God  with  all  thine  heart,  and 
with  all  thy  mind,  and  with  all  thy  soul,  and  with  all  thy  strength, 
and  thy  neighbor  as  thyself.’  Is  that  not  enough?  ” He  went  on 
to  tell  me  that  Christ  waited  for  thirty  years  before  he  began  his 
ministry.  So  they  are  waiting.  They  hear  a voice  behind  them 
saying,  “This  is  the  way;  walk  ye  in  it.”  They  are  waiting  for 
further  guidance.  They  require  wives  and  husbands  to  separate, 
and  to  be  sisters  and  brothers.  The  leader  has  the  seven  eyes  of 
God,  and  can  discern  thoughts  and  motives.  Some  of  them  have 
been  here  fifteen  years.  Some  are  growing  old.  For  them  the 
night  is  coming,  and  if  they  are  going  to  do  anything,  it  is  high 
time  they  were  setting  about  it.  There  is  nothing  in  the  Prophecies 
they  do  not  understand.  One  woman  began  to  talk  about  the  tower 


320 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


of  Hananeel  and  what  the  prophet  had  said  about  it,  and  many  other 
things,  till  I was  bewildered.  I attended  one  of  the  services  they 
hold  for  themselves.  Each  one  took  part  just  as  he  pleased.  The 
comments  were  crude,  and  the  repetitions  a weariness  to  the  flesh. 
The  leader  told  me  they  were  all  poor;  that  they  had  no  friends 
upon  whom  they  could  rely  for  support;  that  they  published  no 
reports;  that,  while  they  had  seen  very  hard  times,  they  were  now 
out  of  debt;  and  that  more  had  left  all,  as  they  had  done,  and 
were  on  their  way  to  join  them.  I thought  of  the  Frenchman’s 
criticism  of  the  charge  of  the  Light  Brigade:  “ This  is  magnificent; 
but  it  is  not  war.”  Thirty  years  ago,  one  hundred  and  fifty-five 
Americans  came  to  Palestine  to  introduce  the  arts  of  civilization. 
They  understood  that  the  Jews  were  about  to  return,  and  the  Mil- 
lennium was  about  to  begin.  Two  are  left.  They  still  hold  fast  to 
their  interpretation  of  the  Prophecies,  but  are  engaged  in  pursuits 
other  than  those  contemplated  when  leaving  America. 

I went  several  times  to  see  the  place  that  is  now  supposed  by 
many  to  be  Golgotha.  It  is  outside  the  walls,  not  far  from  the 
Damascus  Gate.  Mr.  Ben-Oliel  pointed  out  the  spot  where  he 
thinks  the  crosses  stood.  We  went  together  to  the  garden  of  Geth- 
semane.  There  are  olive  trees  of  a great  age,  but  it  is  not  certain 
that  they  were  there  the  night  of  the  betrayal,  or  that  the  walls  now 
standing  inclose  the  real  garden.  But  somewhere  on  that  hillside 
the  Savior  prayed  that  the  cup  might  pass  without  his  drinking  it. 
The  valley  of  the  Kedron  lies  between  the  garden  and  the  city. 
Farther  up  the  Mount  of  Olives  he  wept  over  Jerusalem.  Over  the 
ridge  is  Bethany.  There  he  went  for  sympathy  and  rest  at  the  close 
of  busy  days  in  the  temple.  The  site  of  Bethphage  was  pointed 
out.  From  this  village  the  young  colt  came  on  which  he  made  his 
triumphal  entry  into  the  city.  Somewhere  near  Bethany  he  said  to 
the  apostles:  “But  you  shall  receive  power,  after  that  the  Holy 
Spirit  is  come  upon  you;  and  you  shall  be  my  witnesses  both  in  Jeru- 
salem, and  in  all  Judaea  and  Samaria,  and  unto  the  uttermost  part  of 
the  earth.”  Here  he  ascended  and  sat  down  with  the  Father  on  his 
throne.  As  we  were  walking  about  the  city  we  came  to  the  tents  of 
Dr.  Bliss.  He  is  now  in  charge  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Fund 
work.  He  showed  us  what  discoveries  have  been  made  and  what 
they  signify.  Evidently  the  walls  at  one  time  inclosed  a much 
larger  area  than  they  do  now.  He  has  discovered  sections  of  a 
former  wall  and  a gate  on  the  edge  of  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat.  It 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  wTalls  have  been  broken  down  several 
times.  The  Romans  plowed  Zion  like  a field  and  sowed  it  with  salt. 


ST.  SOPHIA.  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


ARMENIAN  SCHOOL  IN  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


FROM  JAFFA  TO  JERUSALEM  AND  RETURN 


321 


The  debris  in  places  inside  the  walls  is  not  less  than  fifty  feet  deep. 
We  passed  the  Pool  of  Siloam  and  some  monuments  of  considerable 
antiquity,  and  followed  the  valley  of  the  Kedron  till  we  struck  the 
road  leading  to  our  hotel.  I could  not  help  thinking  of  the  strange 
fortunes  of  this  city.  David  took  it  from  the  Jebusites.  In  after 
years  it  was  taken  by  the  Egyptian,  the  Babylonian,  the  Macedo- 
nian, the  Asmonean,  the  Roman,  the  Persian,  the  Arabian,  the 
Frank,  and  the  Turk.  The  names  of  Peter  the  Hermit,  of  St.  Ber- 
nard, of  Godfrey,  of  the  Baldwins,  of  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  of 
Saladin,  of  Philip  Augustus,  and  others  are  inseparably  connected 
with  this  city. 

In  company  with  a friend  I went  down  to  the  Jordan  and  the 
Dead  Sea.  On  the  way  we  passed  through  Bethany.  There  are 
some  forty  buildings,  mostly  in  ruins.  They  show  where  the  home 
of  Mary  and  Martha  stood,  the  grave  of  Lazarus,  and  the  site  of 
the  house  of  Simon.  Miss  Crawford  has  built  a mission  house  at 
the  edge  of  the  village.  The  government  has  scared  away  her  girls, 
but  they  will  return  in  a few  weeks.  The  Dead  Sea  is  a beautiful 
sheet  of  water.  It  is  so  salt  that  nothing  can  live  in  it.  Six  million 
tons  of  fresh  water  fall  into  it  every  day,  but  it  is  not  sweetened. 
The  Jordan  is  about  thirty  yards  wide.  It  is  a swift  and  muddy 
stream.  We  spent  one  night  in  Jericho.  The  village  that  bears 
this  name  is  said  to  be  built  on  the  site  of  Gilgal.  We  were  shown 
the  ruins  of  ancient  Jericho,  the  spring  that  Elisha  healed,  the 
scene  of  our  Lord’s  temptation,  the  place  where  the  Israelites 
crossed  the  Jordan,  and  Nebo  and  Pisgah  beyond.  On  the  way  we 
rested  for  an  hour  at  the  Khan  of  the  Good  Samaritan.  For  some 
distance  our  road  was  in  sight  of  the  brook  Cherith.  It  was  here 
that  Elijah  was  fed  by  the  ravens.  We  made  a second  excursion  to 
Hebron.  We  passed  the  tomb  of  Rachel,  the  place  where  Elijah 
slept  one  night  and  left  the  print  of  his  body  in  the  rock,  the  Pools 
of  Solomon  and  the  sealed  fountain  that  supplied  them.  An 
English  woman  offered  $100,000  to  repair  the  pools  and  the  pipes, 
but  the  government  would  not  consent  to  have  the  work  done  except 
on  conditions  to  which  she  could  not  accede.  Hebron  is  in  the  Val- 
ley of  Eshcol.  It  was  here  that  the  spies  got  the  cluster  of  grapes 
which  they  carried  back  as  a sample  of  the  fruits  of  the  land.  It 
was  in  Mamre  that  Abraham  dwelt.  There  God  appeared  to  him 
and  told  him  of  his  purpose  to  destroy  Sodom.  In  the  cave  of 
Machpelah  Abraham  and  Sarah,  Isaac  and  Rebekah  and  Jacob  and 
Leah  are  buried.  The  Mohammedans  have  built  a mosque  over  the 

cave.  The  Prince  of  Wales  and  several  other  persons  have  been 
21 


322 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


permitted  to  enter  the  cave,  but  all  others  are  rigidly  excluded. 
Hei’e  David  reigned  for  seven  years.  Hebron  is  one  of  the  strong- 
holds of  Mohammedanism.  The  people  are  intensely  fanatical. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Murray,  agents  of  the  Missionary  Alliance,  have  been 
conducting  a school  here  for  girls.  They  had  seventy  pupils.  Four 
times  has  it  been  broken  up.  For  three  months  no  one  has  dared 
to  come.  Parents  have  been  threatened  with  a ruinous  fine  and 
imprisonment  in  case  they  sent  their  children.  Mr.  Murray  is  lame, 
Mrs.  Murray  is  blind,  but  they  see  the  Invisible,  and  walk  in  his 
ways.  They  feel  that  they  are  doing  the  Lord’s  work,  and  they 
have  entered  into  his  joy.  The  Mildway  Mission  has  four  agents 
here  and  a large  dispensary.  Dr.  Patterson  is  a cheery  Scotchman ; 
his  helpers  are  as  brave  and  as  hopeful  as  he  is.  The  authorities 
say,  “We  like  your  medicine,  but  not  your  preaching.”  They  have 
tried  to  break  down  the  work.  A decree  said  that  if  any  woman 
went  to  this  place  she  would  lose  her  veil,  and  her  husband  would 
be  driven  through  the  streets  with  this  veil  about  his  neck.  The 
people  are  scax-ed  away  for  a time,  and  then  return.  The  day  I was 
there  the  patients  numbered  seventy-two.  Some  days  there  are  as 
many  as  one  hundred  and  twenty.  The  workers  in  Hebron  are,  in 
my  opinion,  “friends  of  God”  as  truly  as  was  Abraham.  On  the 
way  home  we  visited  Bethlehem,  and  saw  the  place  where  it  is  said 
Jesus  was  born  of  the  Virgin,  and  where  the  manger  in  which  he  was 
cradled  stood,  and  the  field  where  the  shepherds  kept  their  flocks 
when  the  angels  sang  the  first  Christmas  carol.  This  was  the  home 
of  Ruth  and  Boaz,  of  Jesse  and  David.  The  women  and  children 
are  cleaner  and  better  looking  than  any  others  that  I have  seen  in 
Palestine.  There  are  churches  without  number  in  this  place.  The 
Germans  have  schools  for  boys  and  girls.  At  the  close  of  a busy 
week  in  and  about  the  Holy  City,  I took  the  train  and  returned  to 
Jaffa. 


LIII. 


THINGS  PALESTINIAN. 

In  Palestine  the  Monks  and  Moslems  have  located  the  scene  of 
every  important  event.  In  most  cases  they  have  built  a convent  or 
chapel  or  mosque  over  it.  The  religious  feeling  and  the  desire  for 
revenue  are  at  the  bottom  of  this.  The  place  from  which  the  dust 
was  taken  to  make  man,  the  grave  in  which  Adam  was  buried,  the 
dunghill  on  which  Job  sat  and  scraped  his  boils  with  a potsherd,  the 
olive  tree  in  which  Abraham  found  the  ram  caught  by  his  horns, 
the  cistern  into  which  Joseph  was  thrown,  the  spot  on  which  Eli- 
jah slept  on  the  way  to  Horeb,  the  stones  that  would  have  cried  out 
if  the  children  would  hold  their  peace,  the  place  where  the  cock 
crew  when  Peter  denied  his  Lord,  the  ground  on  which  the  tree 
from  which  the  cross  was  made  grew,  the  way  our  Savior  was  led 
from  Pilate’s  judgment  hall  to  be  crucified,  the  place  where  he 
spoke  to  his  mother,  the  point  where  Simon  was  compelled  to  bear 
the  cross,  the  hole  in  which  the  cross  stood,  the  rock  that  was  rent 
during  the  earthquake,  the  stone  on  which  he  was  anointed,  the 
tomb  in  which  he  slept,  the  exact  spot  from  which  he  ascended  to 
the  Father — these  and  many  other  places  have  been  identified.  Pil- 
grims follow  the  traditional  route  and  stoop  down  and  kiss  the 
stones  and  wash  them  with  their  tears.  They  do  not  stop  to  think 
that  the  streets  our  Lord  walked  are  fifty  feet  below  those  over 
which  they  walk. 

The  claims  of  the  Monks  and  Moslems  are  nearly  all  disputed. 
As  accurate  surveys  are  made  it  becomes  clear  that  most  of  the 
places  shown  as  the  scenes  of  great  events  cannot  be  the  true  places. 
There  is  no  event  connected  with  our  Lord’s  passion  and  death  and 
triumph  of  which  we  can  say  with  assurance  that  it  took  place  on 
this  precise  spot.  The  Latins  and  Greeks  have  built  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  over  the  alleged  site  of  the  crucifixion  and 
burial,  but  competent  judges  hold  that  they  were  mistaken,  and  give 
such  cogent  reasons  for  their  convictions  that,  to  say  the  least,  it  is 
an  open  question.  On  the  Mount  of  Olives  the  Mohammedans  have 
a stone  with  a footprint  in  it,  and  they  say  that  here  our  Lord  stood 

just  before  he  ascended.  But  the  place  does  not  fit  the  narrative. 

323 


324 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Luke  says  that  he  led  them  out  until  they  were  over  against  Beth- 
any; and  he  lifted  up  his  hands,  and  blessed  them.  While  he 
blessed  them,  he  parted  from  them,  and  was  carried  up  into  heaven. 
But  the  stone  of  the  Moslems  is  about  two  miles  from  Bethany. 
Speaking  with  Dr.  Bliss  about  the  uncertainty  of  the  different 
places  connected  with  interesting  events,  he  said,  “ What  does  it 
matter?  It  is  best  so.”  Instead  of  thinking  about  places  and  wor- 
shiping them,  we  should  rather  think  of  the  Christ  and  worship 
him.  There  is  no  room  for  doubt  as  to  the  site  of  Jerusalem  and 
the  temple,  of  the  Valley  of  the  Kedron  and  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
of  Bethlehem  and  Bethany,  of  the  Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea  and  the 
Sea  of  Galilee.  We  can  be  certain  as  to  the  main  features  of  the 
laud,  but  not  of  the  very  places  where  great  deeds  were  done  or 
where  great  events  took  place. 

Most  of  the  people  in  Jerusalem  are  supported  by  Baron  Roths- 
child and  other  rich  Jews.  Sir  Moses  Montefiore,  in  his  day,  did 
much  for  his  countrymen.  I once  heard  Dr.  Jessup  make  a remark 
to  the  effect  that  the  early  churches  did  a thing  of  doubtful  propriety 
when  they  took  up  collections  for  the  poor  saints  in  Jerusalem,  for 
they  have  been  expecting  collections  ever  since.  There  are  no 
manufacturing  concerns  in  or  near  Jerusalem  aside  from  the  indus- 
trial schools  connected  with  the  different  missions.  The  country 
round  about  is  a desei’t.  The  city  is  kept  up  by  tourists  and  pil- 
grims and  the  gifts  of  people  everywhere.  It  would  be  far  better  if 
such  gifts  were  cut  off  and  the  people  thrown  on  their  own 
resources.  The  present  system  pauperizes  them  and  robs  them  of 
their  manhood. 

“Backsheesh”  is  the  commonest  word  in  Palestine  and  in  the 
whole  East.  It  is  the  first  word  you  hear  on  your  arrival  and  the 
last  on  your  departure.  It  signifies  a gift.  Rich  people  give  simply 
because  people  ask.  Americans  are  sinners  above  all  others  in  this 
respect.  Begging  is  a profession.  It  is  as  natural  for. these  people 
to  hold  out  their  hands  to  a stranger  as  to  breathe.  Children  are 
taught  to  do  this  as  soon  as  they  are  born.  I have  heard  little 
things  that  could  scarcely  walk  or  speak  lisp  “ ’sheesli.”  Here,  as 
elsewhere,  money  is  power.  Give  a Customs  official  some  back- 
sheesh and  you  can  go  through  without  a word.  There  is  no  door 
that  will  not  open  to  the  liberal  hand.  If  you  want  attention  at 
table  or  in  your  rooms  or  on  the  road,  you  can  have  it  if  you  will  pay 
the  price.  Churches,  forts,  mosques  demand  backsheesh  in  some 
form.  The  Consul’s  servant  brings  you  a letter  and  insists  on  back- 
sheesh. The  donkey  boy  at  the  close  of  the  day  does  the  same. 


TEIXGS  PALESTIXIAX 


325 


No  matter  how  much  you  give,  the  recipient  is  not  satisfied.  Some 
millionaire  gave  more.  Precedent  is  equivalent  to  a statute.  One 
does  it;  hence  all  must  do  it.  This  is  an  ancient  custom.  Solomon 
gave  Hiram  some  cities  in  return  for  help  afforded  him  in  building 
the  temple.  He  was  not  satisfied,  and  sneered  at  the  gift  as  if  it 
was  beneath  his  dignity  to  receive.  A donkey  boy  uses  the  same 
language  to-day.  The  whole  business  of  giving  gifts,  whether  we 
call  them  backsheesh  or  tips,  is  a nuisance.  For  every  service  there 
should  be  a fixed  price.  When  that  is  paid  the  obligation  should  be 
discharged.  In  Palestine  and  in  Pullman  palace  cars  and  in  hotels, 
the  demand  for  gifts  in  any  shape  is  provoking.  The  system  is 
un-American,  and  should  be  abolished. 

People  are  more  demonstrative  than  at  home.  When  they  get 
on  or  off  a boat  there  is  the  greatest  possible  noise,  and  the  least 
possible  system  or  speed.  Pandemonium  is  a Sunday-school  in 
comparison.  Passengers  and  boatmen  engage  in  fierce  altercations. 
A stranger  expects  to  see  blood  flow  in  torrents,  and  wonders  what 
disposition  will  be  made  of  the  dead.  He  is  surprised  to  find  that 
no  blows  are  struck  and  no  blood  shed.  After  the  storm  there  is  a 
great  calm,  and  all  depai’t  in  peace  and  harmony.  At  weddings  the 
mirth  is  boisterous.  At  funerals  hired  mourners  tear  their  hair  and 
scratch  their  faces  and  scream  as  if  their  sorrow  was  boundless. 
Men  kiss  each  other  and  women  kiss  each  other  on  all  occasions. 
When  one  lovely  woman  kisses  another  lovely  woman  the  perform- 
ance is  stale,  flat  and  unprofitable.  The  game  is  not  worth  the  can- 
dle. When  one  big-bearded  man  kisses  another  big-bearded  man  on 
both  cheeks  and  on  the  mouth,  the  performance  is  little  less  than 
scandalous.  Not  that  kissing  is  to  be  always  and  everywhere  and 
by  all  tabooed.  The  true  view  would  seem  to  be  expressed  in  the 
words,  “A  kiss  in  season,  how  good  it  is!  ” 

Many  races  and  languages  are  represented  in  Palestine.  In  Jeru- 
salem there  are  between  twenty  and  thirty  languages  spoken.  On 
the  day  of  Pentecost  there  were  seventeen  nations  represented; 
there  are  more  than  that  number  now.  One  sees  all  kinds  of  dresses 
and  people  of  all  colors.  A curious  thing  is  this.  The  blacks  do 
not  envy  the  whites  or  feel  any  sense  of  social  inferiority.  Color 
counts  for  nothing.  The  blackest  Soudanese  and  the  brownest 
Bedouin  feels  as  contented  with  his  complexion  as  the  whitest 
tourist  from  the  North.  The  Moslem  is  catholic  in  his  tastes.  He 
takes  black  and  brown  and  white  beauties  into  his  harem.  The 
children  are  all  equal. 

Women  are  the  inferior  sex.  Few  can  read.  Little  concern  is 


326 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


felt  for  their  education.  Marriage  is  the  great  goal  of  evex*y  girl’s 
life.  She  is  married  at  ten  or  twelve.  Dr.  Post  tells  of  a grand- 
mother aged  twenty.  Mothers’  meetings  are  often  made  up  of  mere 
children  in  age,  and  babes  in  intelligence.  Early  marriage  is  an 
obstacle  in  the  way  of  a thorough  training.  In  Palestine  Moslem 
women  cover  the  whole  face.  In  Egypt  the  eyes  are  visible. 
Divorce  is  easy  and  common.  A Moslem  says  of  his  divorced  wife, 
“ She  was  my  slipper,  but  I kicked  her  off.”  The  marriage  bond  is 
as  slight  as  that  between  the  slipper  and  the  foot.  Owing  to  her 
degradation,  she  is  not  expected  to  have  anything  to  do  with  relig- 
ion. Thomson  says,  “Women  never  join  in  the  prayers  in  the 
mosque.”  There  is  a place  where  they  can  hear,  but  that  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  auditorium  by  a screen.  Spanish  Jewesses  are 
expected  to  go  to  the  synagogue  only  once  a year.  Woman  occu- 
pies a higher  place  in  China  than  in  Moslem  lands. 

In  Palestine  one  sees  the  effects  of  bad  government.  In  Solo- 
mon’s time  the  population  must  have  been  5,000,000;  now  it  is 
about  650,000.  In  a trip  to  the  Dead  Sea  we  saw  very  few  people. 
We  met  some  Bedouins  from  Ramoth-gilead  and  the  Jordan  valley 
going  to  market.  Every  man  had  a long  musket  on  his  back  and  a 
sword  or  a knife  in  his  belt.  Their  goods  were  on  camels  or  asses. 
Tourists  are  required  to  take  a military  escort.  If  England  or 
America  was  in  Palestine  there  would  be  peace  and  safety.  We 
saw  some  black  tents  occupied  by  nomads,  but  very  few  houses. 
The  country  is  rocky  and  sterile.  It  is  difficult  to  see  how  such  a 
land  could  support  a teeming  and  prosperous  population.  Pales- 
tine was  called  a land  of  wheat  and  barley,  a land  of  fountains  and 
depths,  a land  whose  stones  were  iron,  and  out  of  whose  hills  the 
people  could  dig  brass.  It  is  not  so  now.  One  sees  no  vine-clad 
hills  and  no  fertile  valleys.  Bad  government  causes  the  land  not  to 
yield  her  fruit.  Trees  are  cut  down  to  escape  ruinous  taxation. 
Flocks  and  herds  are  slaughtered  for  the  same  reason.  There  is  no 
legal  limit  to  the  taxes  imposed.  If  a farmer  has  one-tenth  left  for 
himself  he  is  fortunate.  If  he  refuses  to  pay  the  amount  asked,  it 
is  doubled,  and  soldiers  are  quartered  in  his  house.  Before  they 
will  leave  the  last  farthing  must  be  paid,  and  every  soldier  must 
have  a gift.  With  a good  government  the  valleys  would  be  covered 
with  corn  and  the  hills  would  bear  grapes  and  figs  and  olives  and 
pomegranates.  Instead  of  the  parched  ground  there  would  be  a 
pool  and  grass  with  reeds  and  rushes.  Gladstone  has  said  that  the 
function  of  government  is  to  make  it  easy  to  do  right  and  hard  to 
do  wrong.  That  is  not  the  Turkish  conception,  but  to  tax  the  peo- 


THINGS  PALESTINIAN 


327 


pie.  The  Turkish  power  is  not  a government  in  any  true  sense  of 
the  word,  but  an  instrument  of  oppression.  The  people  are  poor; 
under  Turkish  misrule  they  can  never  be  rich.  The  worst  elements 
of  human  nature  ai’e  brought  to  the  surface.  Under  an  absolutism 
the  subject  races  are  compelled  to  resort  to  lying  and  subterfuge. 
Truth  would  result  in  spoliation  and  death.  The  government  is 
opposed  to  Christian  education.  It  fears  schools  more  than  any 
thing  else. 

I was  in  Palestine  in  June.  The  tourists  were  all  gone.  On 
this  account  the  expenses  were  not  more  than  half  as  much  as  in 
the  season.  The  sun  was  not  oppressively  hot.  In  Jerusalem  I 
slept  under  warm  covei’s  every  night.  The  fleas  and  mosquitoes  did 
not  trouble'me.  I had  heard  much  of  these  pests,  and  expected  to 
be  devoured  by  them.  I thought  of  pennyroyal  and  insecticide  and 
nets  and  screens.  But  I did  not  suffer.  If  there  were  any  of  these 
noxious  creatures  about  they  left  me  alone.  It  is  said  that  the  king 
of  the  fleas  holds  his  court  in  Tiberias.  It  may  be  that  his  subjects 
were  there  in  attendance  upon  his  majesty.  In  any  event  I was 
thankful  to  be  relieved  of  their  presence  and  attention. 

What  of  the  future  of  this  land  hallowed  for  all  time  by  the  life 
and  death  and  resurrection  of  the  Son  of  God?  Some  are  looking 
for  the  return  of  the  Jews  precedent  to  the  coming  of  the  Christ  in 
power  to  cai'ry  on  to  completion  the  redemption  of  the  world. 
Meanwhile  other  nations  covet  Palestine.  Russia  wants  it.  She 
has  large  buildings  in  Jerusalem  and  elsewhere.  She  has  erected 
high  towers  for  military  purposes.  From  these  one  can  look  over 
the  whole  land.  France  wants  it  and  Syria  as  well.  The  govern- 
ment could  not  be  worse;  it  would  be  better  under  any  other  power. 
Palestine  is  still  the  Holy  Land.  To  it  pilgrims  come  from  all  parts 
of  the  earth  and  read  the  Divine  Book  on  the  ground  where  it  was 
written  with  such  sidelights  as  they  can  get  from  the  geography  and 
climate. 


LIV. 


FROM  JAFFA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Leaving  Jaffa,  the  first  place  of  importance  passed  was  Caesarea. 
This  was  the  home  of  Cornelius.  Here  Peter  preached  and  opened 
the  door  of  faith  to  the  Gentiles.  Here  Philip  the  evangelist  and 
his  four  daughters  that  prophesied  lived.  Before  the  fall  of  Jeru- 
salem Caesarea  was  the  chief  political  city  in  Palestine.  It  was  the 
residence  of  the  Roman  procurators.  Here  Paul  was  kept  in  prison 
for  two  years.  Here  he  reasoned  with  Felix  of  righteousness,  tem- 
perance and  the  judgment  to  come.  Here  he  spoke  before  Festus 
and  Agrippa  and  Bernice.  Caesarea  is  now  in  ruins.  Our  first  call 
was  made  at  Haifa,  at  the  base  of  Carmel.  Leaving  Haifa,  we  pro- 
ceeded to  Beirut,  and  spent  part  of  the  day  there.  Between  these 
points  are  Acre  and  Tyre  and  Sidon.  Before  Acre  three  hundred 
thousand  Crusaders  perished.  Tyre  was  mistress  of  the  sea.  This 
was  once  the  crowning  city,  whose  merchants  were  princes,  whose 
traffickers  were  the  honorable  of  the  earth.  Tyre  said  of  herself, 
“ I am  a God,  and  sit  in  the  seat  of  God,  in  the  midst  of  the  seas;  I 
am  of  perfect  beauty.”  By  her  wisdom  and  understanding  she  got 
riches,  and  because  of  her  riches  she  lifted  up  her  heart  and  forgot 
God.  We  are  told  that  from  Arabia  and  Abyssinia  on  the  south  to 
Armenia  and  Georgia  on  the  north,  and  from  the  frontiers  of  India 
to  the  utmost  isles  of  Greece,  and  far  beyond,  caravans  by  land  and 
ships  by  sea  carried  a commerce  rarely  excelled  in  extent  or  variety 
by  any  city  of  any  age  or  country.  To  this  proud  and  voluptuous 
city  God  said,  “ I will  make  thee  like  the  top  of  a rock;  thou  shalt 
be  a place  to  spread  nets  upon.”  Tyre  was  destroyed  by  Nebuchad- 
nezzar, by  Alexander  and  by  the  Saracens. 

“ Dim  is  her  glory,  gone  her  fame, 

Her  boasted  wealth  has  fled ; 

On  her  proud  rock,  alas!  her  shame, 

The  fisher’s  net  is  spread. 

“ The  Tyrian  harp  has  slumbered  long, 

And  Tvria’s  mirth  is  low  ; 

The  timbrel,  dulcimer  and  song 
Are  hushed,  or  wake  to  woe.” 

At  one  time  great  nations  were  found  around  the  Mediterranean. 

From  all  these  the  glory  has  departed.  This  is  true  of  Syria,  Phoe- 

338 


ARMENIAN  PATRIARCH.  LEO  XIII. 


FROM  JAFFA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE 


329 


nicia,  Palestine,  Philistia,  Egypt,  Carthage,  Rome,  and  Greece. 
The  commercial  supremacy  enjoyed  by  Tyre,  Alexandria,  and 
Venice  has  passed  to  London  and  Liverpool,  to  New  York,  Chicago, 
and  San  Francisco.  Only  the  sea  remains  as  it  was.  “Time  writes 
no  wrinkles  on  thy  azure  brow;  such  as  creation’s  dawn  beheld, 
thou  rollest  now.”  Its  beauty  remains,  but  its  relative  importance 
is  much  less  now  than  it  was  two  thousand  years  ago. 

From  Beirut  we  went  on  to  Tripoli  and  spent  several  hours 
there,  taking  on  and  putting  off  cargo  and  passengers.  From  there 
we  steamed  on  to  Latakia  and  Alexandretta.  This  last  place  is  the 
port  of  Aleppo.  On  the  way  we  passed  Selucia  and  Antioch  with- 
out calling.  At  one  time  Antioch  was  the  third  city  on  the  globe. 
It  was  “ The  Eye  of  the  East.”  In  the  history  of  the  church  it  is 
second  only  to  Jerusalem.  Some  men  from  Cyprus  and  Cyrene 
preached  in  this  city  to  the  Greeks.  The  hand  of  the  Lord  was  with 
them,  and  a great  number  that  believed  turned  to  the  Lord.  Barna- 
bas was  sent  to  Antioch  by  the  mother  church.  He  found  the  work 
so  great  that  he  needed  an  associate,  and  went  to  Tarsus  and  brought 
Saul  back  with  him.  They  labored  here  a whole  year.  In  Antioch 
the  disciples  were  first  called  Christians.  Here  the  Holy  Spirit  said, 
“Separate  me  Barnabas  and  Saul  for  the  work  whereunto  I have 
called  them.”  From  this  point  they  started  on  their  first  mission- 
ary tour.  From  Selucia  they  sailed  to  Cyprus.  As  we  crossed  their 
course  I read  the  account  given  in  the  Acts.  Though  Antioch  has 
fallen,  and  though  Mohammedanism  has  displaced  Christianity  as 
the  dominant  faith,  it  is  pleasant  to  know  that  a little  group  of 
Disciples  of  Christ  meet  there  week  by  week  to  break  bread  and  to 
exhort  one  another  to  cleave  to  the  Lord  with  purpose  of  heart. 
Our  next  stop  was  at  Mersina,  the  port  of  Tarsus  in  Cilicia,  the 
birthplace  of  Paul,  the  grandest  man  of  the  ages.  Mersina  is  a 
flourishing  place.  The  Reformed  Presbyterians  are  at  work  here. 
We  left  in  the  evening.  The  next  morning  we  were  in  Larnaka, 
Cyprus.  I went  ashore  and  called  at  the  Presbyterian  mission.  The 
man  in  charge  can  speak  a little  English.  He  explained  that  an 
American  was  coming  to  take  charge  of  the  work.  Paul  and  Bar- 
nabas and  John  landed  at  Salamis,  and  went  through  the  whole 
island  to  Paphos.  There  they  met  Elymas,  the  sorcerer,  and  Ser- 
gius Paulus,  the  proconsul.  Because  of  his  opposition  the  sorcerer 
was  smitten  with  blindness.  The  proconsul,  seeing  what  was  done, 
believed,  being  astonished  at  the  teaching  of  the  Lord.  Cyprus  is 
now  a British  colony,  and  is  increasing  in  wealth  and  in  population. 
Missionaries  are  free  to  enter  and  preach  and  teach  Christ.  From 


330 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


Cyprus  we  proceeded  to  Rhodes.  After  a few  hours  we  continued 
our  voyage.  We  saw  land  all  day.  The  isles  of  Greece  were  on 
the  left  and  Asia  Minor  on  the  right.  One  of  the  seamen  pointed 
out  Patmos,  the  scene  of  John’s  splendid  visions.  Our  last  call 
before  reaching  Smyrna  was  at  Chios,  the  birthplace  of  Homer. 

Every  Turkish  village  and  city  has  its  mosques.  From  the  min- 
aret the  muezzin  calls  the  people  to  prayer  five  times  a day.  Once 
all  Asia  Minor  was  Christian  soil.  Paul  reasoned  and  persuaded  as 
to  the  things  concerning  the  kingdom  of  God.  “And  this  continued 
for  a space  of  two  years;  so  that  all  they  who  dwelt  in  Asia  heard 
the  word  of  the  Lord,  both  Jews  and  Greeks.”  The  apostasy  fore- 
told took  place.  The  people  became  engrossed  in  the  discussions 
about  dogmas  and  pictures,  and  the  enemy  came  in  like  a flood  and 
swept  them  all  away. 

On  going  ashore  at  Smyrna  I got  a guide  and  started  to  find  the 
Isaac  Errett  Memorial  Chapel.  On  the  way  we  met  one  of  the 
brethren.  He  could  speak  a few  words  of  English.  The  building 
is  in  a good  part  of  the  city,  and  is  well  suited  to  the  purpose.  For 
five  years  there  has  been  no  pastoral  oversight.  As  a result,  some 
have  gone  back  to  the  world.  Those  that  remain  are  anxious  that 
some  one  should  be  sent  to  aid  them.  Smyrna  is  a thriving  city. 
The  population  numbers  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  The 
American  Board  has  a large  work  here.  Besides  preaching,  it  has  a 
number  of  schools.  In  those  schools  English,  Arabic,  Turkish  and 
Armenian  are  taught.  All  these  languages  are  needed  in  this  city. 
Mr.  McLachlan,  formerly  of  Toronto,  explained  to  me  the  nature 
and  extent  of  the  work.  The  German  Baptists  have  one  man  here. 
He  was  born  in  the  East,  and  speaks  many  tongues.  He  came  from 
America  a year  or  two  ago.  I was  told  that  there  are  no  Turks  in 
business  in  Smyrna.  The  Turks  cannot  compete  with  Greeks,  Syri- 
ans and  Armenians.  In  every  case  they  go  to  the  wall.  This  is  one 
reason  why  the  Turks  hate  the  Christians.  Their  daily  prayer  is 
that  the  lives  and  possessions  of  the  “ infidels  ” should  be  given  to 
the  “faithful.”  Col.  Madden,  of  Danville,  111.,  is  the  American 
Consul  in  Smyrna.  He  is  proud  of  the  fact  that  he  is  an  American, 
and  is  pleased  to  see  Americans.  In  the  touring  season  he  goes  out 
in  a boat  with  the  American  flag  flying  to  meet  his  countrymen,  and 
to  render  them  any  assistance  in  his  power.  The  Customs  officer 
searched  my  pockets  and  felt  me  all  over  from  head  to  foot.  I 
asked  him  if  that  was  right.  He  got  his  hat  and  cane  and  went 
with  me  to  the  Customs  house.  He  spoke  to  the  official  in  a way 
that  alarmed  him.  He  confessed  his  fault,  apologized,  and  pledged 


FROM  JAFFA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE 


331 


himself  not  to  do  so  again.  This  was  not  the  first  time  that  an 
American  citizen  had  been  subjected  to  this  indignity,  but  the  Con- 
sul is  determined  that  it  shall  be  the  last.  Praise  God  for  such 
consuls  as  T.  R.  Gibson,  of  Beirut,  and  Col.  Madden,  of  Smyrna. 
The  Turks  have  not  dined  and  wined  and  flattered  their  American- 
ism out  of  them.  They  are  Americans  first  and  last  and  always, 
and  they  take  delight  in  assisting  and  protecting  Americans  when- 
ever they  can  do  so.  Smyrna  was  the  seat  of  one  of  the  seven 
churches  of  Asia.  The  others  were  in  Ephesus,  Pergamos,  Thya- 
tira,  Sardis,  Philadelphia,  and  Laodicea.  None  of  the  seven  now 
exists.  When  the  Turks  took  possession  of  Asia  Minor  their  only 
conception  of  land  was  that  it  could  be  only  profitably  used  as  pas- 
ture. Cities  were  destroyed  that  their  sites  might  be  used  to  raise 
grass  to  feed  flocks  and  herds.  Smyrna  was  the  home  of  Polycarp. 
When  he  was  called  upon  to  deny  his  Lord  he  said : “Eighty-six 
years  have  I served  him,  and  he  has  done  me  good  and  not  evil; 
how  then  can  I deny  him?  ” He  did  not  renounce  his  Loi’d. 

Our  first  call  after  leaving  Smyrna  was  made  at  Mitylene.  After 
a little  we  rounded  the  cape  of  the  Troad  and  caught  our  first 
glimpse  of  Europe.  We  saw  the  plain  where  the  long  duel  between 
the  Greeks  and  the  Trojans  was  fought.  Homer  has  immortalized 
the  place  and  the  contestants.  We  know  Achilles  and  Agamemnon 
and  Ajax  and  Diomede  and  Ulysses  and  Nestor  and  Hector  and  Paris 
and  Priam  as  well  as  we  know  the  heroes  of  the  Revolution.  We 
saw  Mt.  Ida  and  the  Scamander.  Here  it  was  that  Paul  “saw  in  a 
vision  a man  of  Macedonia,”  and  heard  him  say,  “Come  over  into 
Macedonia  and  help  us.”  In  answer  to  that  call  he  carried  the 
Gospel  to  Europe.  We  were  obliged  to  stop  at  the  Dardanelles 
and  show  our  papers.  Here  are  strong  forts  armed  with  Krupp 
guns.  A little  further  on  we  came  to  the  place  where  Xerxes  built 
his  bridges.  The  sea  swept  away  his  work.  In  anger  he  scourged 
the  sea  and  threw  fetters  into  it.  Here  the  Ottoman  Turks  crossed 
and  set  up  their  standard  in  Europe.  Here  Leander  and  Byron 
swam  across  the  stream.  Further  on  still  is  Gallipoli,  the  first 
European  town  taken  by  the  Turks.  This  is  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Sea  of  Marmora.  The  Hellespont  is  thirty-three  miles  long;  the 
Marmora  is  one  hundred  and  ten  miles.  We  fell  asleep  soon  after 
entering  the  Marmora.  The  next  morning  we  dropped  anchor  in 
the  Golden  Horn. 


LV. 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  GIOL  DAGH  AND  BARDEZAG. 

We  had  scarcely  dropped  anchor  when  G.  N.  Shishmanian 
and  his  son  John  came  to  the  boat  to  help  me  through  the 
Customs  Office  and  to  take  me  to  their  own  home.  Enter- 
ing a civilized  country  is  a simple  matter;  but  Turkey  is  not 
that.  Turkey  is  the  only  country  that  required  me  to  show  my 
passport  before  allowing  me  to  land.  The  guide  books  say  that 
if  one  will  give  the  official  a franc,  one’s  baggage  will  be  exam- 
ined at  once  and  very  slightly.  I was  in  favor  of  doing  this,  but 
Mr.  Shishmanian  is  opposed  on  principle  to  bribing  officials.  He 
has  lost  thousands  of  pounds  because  he  would  not  bribe  Turkish 
officers  to  do  their  duty.  For  this  reason  the  bulk  of  his  patrimony 
has  been  tied  up  in  the  courts  for  years,  and  is  likely  to  remain 
there  for  all  time.  I could  not  but  admire  his  conscience,  though 
it  cost  me  four  times  as  much  in  the  end  as  if  I had  followed  the 
guide  books.  Because  I did  not  hand  the  official  a franc,  my  bag- 
gage was  detained,  that  my  books  and  papers  might  be  scrutinized. 
Only  one  objectionable  paper  was  found.  The  Turks  are  very  care- 
ful as  to  the  books  and  papers  they  admit.  An  Englishman  had  his 
copy  of  Milton  seized.  The  reason  assigned  was  that  Milton  had 
spoken  disrespectfully  of  Adam.  They  consider  Adam  a distant 
relative,  and  they  will  brook  no  reflections  upon  him.  Leaving  the 
baggage  in  the  Customs  Office  we  went  to  the  Mission  House.  The 
whole  family  united  in  giving  me  a genuine  Kentucky  welcome.  I 
was  at  home  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye. 

The  Mission  home  is  in  the  Armenian  quarter.  The  services  are 
held  in  a part  of  the  house.  I spoke  twice  through  Mr.  Shish- 
manian. These  were  seasons  of  refreshing  from  the  presence  of 
the  Lord.  The  day  school  has  eighty-five  pupils;  it  could  have 
three  hundred  if  there  was  room.  For  five  years  Mr.  Shishmanian 
has  been  trying  to  get  a permit  to  carry  on  this  work.  He  has  sub- 
mitted the  text-books  used  and  the  certificates  of  the  teachers  and 
the  programme  of  the  school.  He  has  been  promised  a permit,  but 
has  not  received  it.  When  we  called  at  the  Legation  the  interpre- 
ter said  that  the  Minister  of  Education  told  him  the  permit  was 

332 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  GIOL,  DAGH  AND  BAEDEZAG 


333 


ready,  and  to  ask  Mr.  Shishmanian  to  call  and  get  it.  We  called 
that  very  day.  The  Minister  was  delighted  to  see  us,  and  treated 
us  to  cigarettes,  and  asked  what  he  could  do  for  us.  The  business 
was  explained  in  a few  words.  He  said  that  the  clerk  that  had  the 
matter  in  hand  was  not  in,  but  he  would  attend  to  it  and  let  him 
know  when  he  could  call  and  get  it.  He  will  hear  no  more  until  it 
is  necessary  to  harass  him  again.  As  the  case  stands,  the  police 
can  close  the  school  at  any  time.  When  the  property  was  damaged 
with  the  earthquake  he  asked  for  a permit  to  make  repairs.  He 
was  put  off  from  time  to  time  with  plausible  excuses.  Then  he 
employed  men  and  put  them  to  work.  The  police  called  and  for- 
bade him  to  proceed.  He  locked  the  doors  and  went  on.  The 
police  called  to  the  workers  through  the  key-hole  to  stop,  but  they 
were  as  deaf  as  adders,  and  kept  right  on  till  the  work  was  done. 

The  second  morning  after  my  arrival  we  started  to  visit  the 
brethren  at  Giol  Dagh  and  Bardezag.  We  left  home  before  day 
and  reached  the  railway  terminus  in  the  evening.  The  next  day  we 
took  horses,  and,  after  a ride  of  six  hours,  reached  Giol  Dagh. 
There  are  no  roads  most  of  the  way.  Our  guide  had  never  been  to 
the  place,  and  we  got  lost.  After  wandering  about  like  babes  in 
the  woods,  we  found  the  trail  and  soon  reached  the  village.  The 
people  poured  out  to  see  us,  and  made  every  provision  for  our  com- 
fort. They  gave  us  the  best  rooms,  and  killed  and  cooked  their 
tenderest  chickens.  We  had  two  public  services.  In  the  evening 
they  filled  the  house,  and  we  had  singing,  Scripture  reading  and 
prayer.  One  woman  was  pointed  out  to  me.  Her  husband  used  to 
threaten  to  kill  her  if  she  did  not  cease  coming  to  these  meetings. 
She  manifested  the  wisdom  of  the  serpent  and  the  harmlessness  of 
the  dove  and  the  amiable  obstinacy  of  her  delightful  sex,  and  gained 
her  husband.  Now  he  is  as  devoted  as  she  is.  One  man  threat- 
ened to  kill  Mr.  Shishmanian.  Now  he  is  one  of  the  most  active 
men  in  the  place.  There  are  thirty-five  believers  in  all.  Eleven  of 
these  have  been  added  recently.  They  need  a house  which  they 
can  use  as  a school  and  a chapel.  They  have  a lot  and  the  timber 
and  the  stones;  they  need  $125  to  pay  the  carpenters  and  masons 
for  their  work.  The  people  are  very  poor.  They, live  in  the  sim- 
plest style.  Their  raiment  and  homes  are  of  the  most  primitive 
character.  They  are  far  from  markets  and  are  heavily  taxed. 
They  are  afraid  to  raise  fruits  for  themselves.  If  they  did  the 
Turks  would  rob  them.  They  are  so  situated  that  they  cannot 
prosper.  Children  are  as  plentiful  as  blackberries.  If  the  saying, 
“ Happy  is  the  man  whose  quiver  is  full  of  them,”  applies  here, 


334 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


these  people  must  be  unspeakably  happy.  The  village  is  sur- 
rounded with  Turks.  In  the  past  winter  men  were  on  guard  every 
night.  One  night  was  fixed  upon  for  an  attack.  That  evening  the 
Turks  heard  that  the  Armenians  were  l’ising,  and  that  it  behooved 
them  to  be  on  their  guard.  Because  of  this  rumor  there  was  no 
massacre.  Giol  Dagh  is  high  up  on  the  mountain  side.  The 
believers  meet  to  sing  and  pray  and  to  celebrate  the  Lord’s  death 
and  to  exhort  one  another  to  hold  fast  the  beginning  of  their  confi- 
dence steadfast  unto  the  end. 

Leaving  Giol  Dagh  and  coming  down  into  the  valley,  we  took  a 
train  for  Nicomedia.  At  this  point  we  left  the  railway,  crossed  the 
bay,  and  took  a carriage  for  Bardezag.  We  found  the  people  busy 
with  their  silk  worms.  Most  of  the  men  were  away  at  work  in  the 
mountains.  Those  that  were  at  home  were  pleased  to  see  us,  and 
gathered  in  the  evening  for  a service.  Their  joy  and  gratitude  were 
very  touching.  Here,  as  everywhere,  the  people  are  extremely 
poor.  One  family  connected  with  the  church  is  in  fairly  good 
circumstances,  but  they  are  preparing  to  migrate  to  America. 
There  are  about  thirty  disciples  in  Bardezag.  They  need  a teacher 
and  preacher  and  a house  of  their  own.  We  returned  to  Nicome- 
dia the  next  day,  and  saw  the  brethren  there.  There  are  only  three 
in  all.  We  comforted  and  exhorted  them  and  departed.  Nicome- 
dia was  once  the  capital  of  the  Roman  Empire.  Here  Diocletian 
had  his  palace  and  throne.  Here  he  originated  and  superintended 
one  of  the  “ ten  persecutions,”  and  at  its  close  wrote  on  the  coins 
of  the  Empire,  “The  Christian  religion  has  been  destroyed.” 
Here,  after  his  abdication,  he  cultivated  cabbages  and  turnips. 
Nicomedia  is  now  a place  of  no  consequence.  That  afternoon  we 
took  a train  and  returned  to  Constantinople. 

One  is  not  in  Turkey  long  before  one  gets  some  practical  knowl- 
edge of  Turkish  officials  and  Turkish  misrule.  When  we  came  to 
the  end  of  our  journey  we  asked  the  Chief  of  Police  to  register  our 
passports.  He  said  that  was  not  necessary,  and  handed  them  back. 
No  sooner  had  we  reached  Nicomedia  than  the  police  asked  to  see 
our  passports.  They  said  that  they  had  not  been  registered  as  they 
should  have  been  at  the  end  of  the  journey,  and  that  we  must  pay  a 
fine  of  twenty-five  piasters  each.  Mr.  Shishmanian  told  him  what 
the  Chief  of  Police  had  said,  but  no  explanation  would  avail;  we 
must  pay  the  fine.  There  was  no  alternative.  On  our  way  down 
from  Giol  Dagh  our  guide  led  us  up  to  the  front  of  the  station, 
instead  of  making  a long  circuit  and  coming  up  from  the  rear. 
The  ticket  agent  would  not  sell  any  tickets  till  we  paid  a fine  of  two 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  GIOL,  DAGH  AND  BAEDEZAG  335 

hundred  piasters.  We  had  no  choice.  We  could  not  ride  on  the 
train  without  tickets,  and  we  could  not  get  the  tickets  without 
paying  the  fine. 

Mr.  Shishmanian’s  history  and  work  are  full  of  interest.  He 
was  born  in  Asia  Minor,  and  took  a course  in  Dr.  Hamlin’s 
Academy  on  the  Bosporus.  He  spent  some  time  in  Egypt  as  an 
interpreter,  and  then  went  to  America.  At  that  time  he  hated  the 
Disciples  with  a perfect  hatred.  He  made  the  acquaintance  of  John 
Tomline  Walsh,  but  when  he  heard  that  he  was  a Disciple  he  would 
neither  visit  nor  eat  with  him.  In  Dallas,  Texas,  a quiet  business 
man  asked  him  to  go  to  church  with  him,  without  saying  anything 
to  him  about  the  church.  Kirk  Baxter  was  the  preacher.  He 
presented  some  truths  in  a new  light.  The  hearer  was  interested 
and  went  again.  It  was  not  long  till  he  was  baptized.  Soon  after 
he  was  in  Lexington  preparing  himself  for  the  work  of  the  minis- 
try. God  led  him  back  to  Turkey,  and  has  protected  and'  guided 
him  ever  since.  He  can  eat  anything  and  sleep  anywhere.  He 
sings  and  talks  all  day.  He  enters  into  all  the  trials  and  sorrows  of 
his  flock.  They  come  to  him  for  counsel  and  assistance.  He  is  a 
father  to  the  poor.  His  house  is  a castle.  American  flags  hang  on 
the  wall.  The  people  feel  secure  under  his  roof.  I was  reminded 
constantly  of  the  words,  “ The  name  of  the  Lord  is  a strong  tower; 
the  righteous  run  into  it  and  are  safe.”  No  wonder  the  people 
love  him  and  confide  in  him.  No  wonder  there  are  faces  that  watch 
for  his  coming,  and  look  brighter  when  he  comes.  Mrs.  Shish- 
manian  was  born  in  Lexington.  She  has  the  pluck  of  her  race. 
Should  the  Sultan  order  a massacre  in  Constantinople,  she  will  give 
a good  account  of  herself.  Of  her  it  can  be  said  that  she  has 
labored  much  in  the  Lord,  and  “ has  been  a succorer  of  many,  and 
of  mine  own  self.”  John  is  a young  man  nearly  grown.  He  is  a 
fine  lad,  and  will  make  his  mark.  He  is  a student  in  Robert  Col- 
lege. His  mind  inclines  to  architecture.  I feel  sure  he  will  yet 
find  his  way  into  the  ministry.  He  and  his  sister,  Orienta,  aid  in 
the  music  and  in  many  other  ways.  They  sing  and  play  well. 
Lucy  is  the  youngest,  and  is  the  pride  and  joy  of  the  family.  May 
the  blessings  of  the  Most  High  God  be  upon  her  and  all  dear  to  her. 
One  cannot  be  in  that  family  very  long  without  feeling,  “ Surely 
the  Lord  is  in  this  place;  this  is  none  other  than  a house  of  God 
and  a gate  of  heaven.” 


LVI. 


MISSIONS  IN  TURKEY. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Shishmanian  reached  Constantinople  and  began 
work  in  1879.  The  Gospel  was  preached  publicly  and  from  house 
to  house.  Schools  were  opened  and  children  taught.  Tracts  were 
published.  These  were  carried  far  and  near.  The  converts  were 
scattered  throughout  the  Empire.  Dr.  Kevorkian  joined  the  mis- 
sion later.  He  made  Marsivan  the  center  of  his  operations. 
Besides  preaching  and  teaching  he  carries  on  a medical  work. 
Hohannes  Karagiozian  was  employed  for  a time  in  Marash.  Other 
helpers  have  been  raised  up  from  time  to  time.  As  a result  of  this 
diversified  activity,  many  heard,  believed,  and  were  baptized.  The 
converts  from  the  first,  so  far  as  they  are  known,  number  about  one 
thousand. 

Owing  to  sickness,  the  missionary  family  moved  to  Bardezag  and 
lived  there  for  a season.  Mrs.  Shishmanian  gave  me  a graphic 
account  of  the  first  baptism.  The  house  was  full,  and  hundreds 
were  without.  They  were  eager  to  see  and  hear.  They  crowded 
about  the  door  and  tried  to  force  an  entrance.  The  wife  of  the 
owner  of  the  building  seized  a club  and  stood  at  the  door  and  said, 
“I  am  not  a Baptist,  but  if  any  man  comes  in  here  he  will  get  his 
head  smashed.”  One  lad  hid  himself  in  the  ladies’  robing  room 
and  watched  the  proceedings  and  listened  to  the  preaching  through 
a hole  in  the  floor.  The  women  discovered  him  and  squealed  as 
usual,  and  called  for  help.  Mr.  Shishmanian  came  to  the  rescue, 
and  led  the  lad  out  by  the  ear.  About  midnight  many  left  and  the 
others  became  so  quiet  that  the  baptisms  could  proceed.  Seventeen 
were  buried  with  Christ  on  a confession  of  their  faith  in  him.  The 
woman  that  stood  guard  at  the  door  was  baptized  subsequently,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  faithful  of  the  flock. 

Those  who  read  the  tracts  sent  out  by  Mr.  Shishmanian  wanted 
fuller  information  concerning  the  matters  treated  in  the  tracts. 
They  sent  him  urgent  invitations  to  visit  them.  He  has  visited 
Smyrna,  Adana,  Biridjik  on  the  Euphrates,  Zarah,  Sevas,  Erzeroum, 
Bitlis  on  the  Lake  of  Van,  and  many  other  places.  When  he  was 
in  Adana,  Cilicia,  a young  man  named  Leon  Lilian  came  from  Tar- 

336 


SCHOOL  IN  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


MISSIONS  IN  TURKEY 


337 


sus,  bringing  a letter  from  Moses  Filian,  his  father,  asking  him  to 
visit  Tarsus,  if  possible,  on  his  way  to  Marsivan.  He  had  read 
some  of  the  tracts,  and  desired  an  interview.  Two  days  later  he 
visited  Tarsus.  They  talked  till  midnight,  and  spent  all  the  follow- 
ing day  discussing  and  searching  the  Scriptures.  Late  in  the  even- 
ing father  and  son  were  fully  convinced  of  the  truth,  and  expressed 
a desire  to  be  baptized.  The  next  morning  they  were  baptized  in 
the  River  Cydnus.  The  father  returned  to  Antioch  and  preached 
the  Gospel  there.  There  is  now  a church  of  thirty  souls  in  that 
place.  In  June  last,  Mr.  Shishmanian  received  a letter  from  a man 
who  said:  “Six  years  ago  one  of  your  tracts  came  into  my  hands 
and  became  the  means  of  the  salvation  of  my  soul.”  He  did  not 
know  the  writer  or  the  place  of  his  abode.  The  letter  went  on  to 
say  that  when  he  made  known  his  convictions,  the  church  of  which 
he  was  a member  thrust  him  out.  He  remained  aloof  from  them 
for  two  years.  When  he  heard  of  Azariah  Paul  he  sent  for  him  and 
was  baptized.  Since  then  he  has  preached  to  the  best  of  his  ability, 
and  has  baptized  quite  a number.  At  his  preaching  there  are  some- 
times twenty-five,  and  sometimes  more,  present.  Malkhas  Melco- 
nian,  a blind  beggar,  preached  in  Russia.  He  knew  the  Bible  by 
heart.  On  his  travels  he  fell  in  with  one  of  the  brethren  and  was 
baptized.  He  preached  in  Nachtiven  and  Shushee,  and  baptized 
seventeen.  The  Russian  authorities  arrested  him  and  kept  him  in 
prison  for  three  months,  and  took  away  his  blind  books.  After  he 
was  let  go  he  preached  in  Russia  and  in  Turkey.  Dr.  Kevorkian 
lives  in  Marsivan,  but  he  has  opened  a number  of  stations  in  that 
part  of  the  country. 

The  work  is  carried  on  in  the  face  of  many  difficulties  aud  dis- 
coui'agements.  Nothing  can  be  done  among  the  Moslems.  They 
will  not  permit  any  book  or  paper  attacking  Mohammedanism  to  be 
published.  No  new  school  can  be  opened  without  the  consent  of 
the  Sultan.  That  means  that  it  cannot  be  opened  at  all.  No  per- 
mit to  erect  a school  or  a church  can  be  obtained.  Old  laws  are 
stringently  enforced,  aud  new  laws,  more  severe  than  the  old,  are 
enacted.  Officials  are  suspicious,  and  scent  mischief  wThere  no  mis- 
chief exists.  Mr.  Shishmanian  took  me  to  see  a brother  who  had 
been  in  exile  for  seven  years.  He  had  been  a school  teacher  in  Sevas, 
and  was  respected  by  all  who  knew  him.  One  day  a brother  asked 
him  to  write  some  words  for  him  in  Armenian  and  Turkish.  These 
words  were  stuck  on  a board  and  carried  through  the  streets.  The 
words  ran  thus:  “O  men  and  brethren,  perhaps  this  is  our  last 

day,  and  who  knows  whether  we  shall  be  alive  to-morrow ! There- 
22 


338 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


fore  let  us  repent  and  leave  off  all  our  sins,  and  pray  to  God  that 
lie  may  teach  us  the  way  of  truth,  for  the  fearful  day  of  judgment 
is  at  hand.”  This  man  preached  some,  and  wanted  to  get  an  audi- 
ence. For  this  act  they  were  arrested  and  sent  to  Africa.  After 
reaching  the  coast  they  were  supplied  with  a camel  and  some  bread, 
and  given  to  some  Arabs  to  escort  them  to  Fezzan.  The  Arabs 
would  not  let  them  ride  the  camel  or  eat  the  bread.  With  some 
money  they  bought  a kid.  The  Arabs  used  to  say,  “ Pigs,  become 
Mohammedans,  or  we  will  cut  your  throats.”  They  drew  their 
swords  across  their  necks  to  give  emphasis  to  their  threats.  They 
took  them  by  force  and  circumcised  them.  They  were  allowed 
three  loaves  a day,  and  nothing  else.  They  sold  one  and  got  some 
fuel  to  warm  their  drinking  water  or  to  get  some  vegetables. 
One  died  soon  after  reaching  Fezzan,  the  other  is  in  Constanti- 
nople, but  he  is  afraid  to  go  to  church  lest  he  should  be  arrested  on 
the  way.  Last  winter  some  fifteen  or  twenty  of  the  brethren  were 
massacred.  Among  the  number  was  the  blind  beggar  who  had 
preached  in  Russia.  He  was  asked  to  become  a Mohammedan.  He 
refused,  and  was  murdered. 

The  Armenians  are  living  in  such  dread  that  they  do  not  dare 
to  attend  the  services.  Not  only  so,  but  they  are  afraid  to  sleep  at 
night.  In  the  morning  they  say,  “ Would  God  it  were  evening;  ” 
and  in  the  evening  they  say,  “Would  God  it  were  morning.”  There 
are  rumors  of  all  kinds  in  the  air;  it  is  impossible  to  verify  them. 
If  the  Sultan  orders  a massacre,  all  who  can  are  to  make  a bee-line 
for  the  mission  premises.  As  many  as  can  get  in  will  be  safe. 
There  they  will  be  under  the  protection  of  the  American  flag.  But 
what  of  the  thousands  that  cannot  get  in?  They  will  fare  as  Arme- 
nians fared  elsewhere.  We  know  what  their  fate  was.  In  one 
place  the  eyes  of  four  hundred  men  were  gouged  out  and  strung 
like  beads  on  a string.  Three  hundred  girls  and  women  were 
stripped  and  made  to  parade  the  streets.  A hundred  choice  Arme- 
nian youths  were  bound  like  sheep  for  the  slaughter.  Sheikhs, 
reciting  verses  from  the  Koran,  went  along  and  cut  their  throats. 
In  one  place  the  people  took  refuge  in  the  cathedral,  expecting  to 
find  it  a sanctuary.  Soldiers  went  into  the  pulpit,  and  after  the 
doors  were  locked  began  to  shoot.  This  process  being  too  slow  they 
used  the  sword.  Their  arms  growing  weary,  they  saturated  the 
building  and  people  with  coal  oil  and  applied  the  torch.  Mrs. 
Shishmanian  told  me  how  the  son  of  her  washerwoman  was  treated. 
He  was  arrested  and  asked  what  he  knew  about  some  secret  society. 
He  was  a simple  lad,  and  carried  the  clothes  his  mother  washed 


MISSION'S  IX  TURKEY 


339 


backward  and  forward.  He  knew  nothing  and  could  tell  nothing. 
They  tortured  him  by  rolling  him  in  hot  ashes,  and  then  asked  him 
to  tell  what  he  knew.  He  could  tell  nothing.  Then  they  poured 
alcohol  on  the  back  of  his  hands  and  set  the  alcohol  on  fire  and 
burned  off  the  cords.  The  poor  boy  is  a cripple  for  life.  Old 
women  were  stripped  to  the  waist,  and  boiling  water  poured  over 
them  to  extort  confessions.  We  hear  of  the  meekness  of  Moses 
and  the  patience  of  Job,  but  these  ancient  worthies  lived  in  better 
times  and  among  civilized  people.  The  Pharaohs  were  very  decent 
fellows  compared  with  the  Sultan  and  his  underlings.  And  as  for 
dear  old  Job  sitting  on  a dung-hill  and  scraping  his  boils  with  a 
potsherd,  that  was  positive  recreation  compared  with  what  mis- 
sionaries in  Turkey  undergo  every  day.  In  the  midst  of  it  all  our 
missionaries  never  forget  that  they  are  Christian  gentlemen,  and 
never  cease  to  exhibit  the  gentleness  and  patience  of  Christ.  Talk 
of  heroism!  This  is  the  genuine  article  in  a concrete  form  and 
of  the  purest  and  highest  type.  In  no  part  of  the  world,  not  in 
Africa  or  China,  is  mission  work  so  perilous  and  discouraging  as 
in  Turkey. 

We  called  on  the  workers  of  the  American  Board.  This  Board 
has  been  in  Turkey  for  many  years,  and  has  done  a great  work.  It 
has  twenty-six  central  stations  and  over  three  hundred  out-stations. 
In  these  are  one  hundred  and  seventy-six  American  missionaries. 
The  Board  has  property  worth  $650,000.  The  work  has  five  depart- 
ments, namely,  the  Publication,  the  Educational,  the  Evangelistic, 
the  Medical,  and  the  Relief.  In  times  of  famine,  pestilence,  or  per- 
secution, the  last  is  the  most  important.  There  are  fiftj'-one  col- 
leges and  high  schools,  and  four  theological  seminaries,  and  many 
common  schools.  The  whole  number  of  schools  is  20,496;  the 
whole  number  of  native  teachers,  564.  Medical  work  is  carried 
on  in  Aintab,  Csesarea,  Mardin  and  Van.  The  evangelistic  work 
is  considered  of  supreme  importance.  The  present  number  of 
churches  is  125;  of  members,  12,787.  The  places  for  stated 
preaching  are  327 ; average  congregations,  34,370;  ordained  native 
preachers,  100;  unordained  preachers,  128. 

In  the  recent  massacres  the  American  Board  suffered  greatly. 
The  property  destroyed  is  estimated  at  $125,000.  Twenty  preachers 
and  teachers  were  murdered.  One  teacher  was  sent  to  prison  for 
ten  years.  His  offense  was  this:  A copy  of  the  London  Times 

containing  Lord  Salisbury’s  speech  wras  found  in  his  house.  The 
prisons  are  full  of  people.  They  are  not  brought  to  trial;  no 
charge  is  made  against  them;  their  crime  is  this:  They  are  Chris- 


340 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


tians.  The  missionaries  have  acted  a noble  part,  they  have  stood 
by  their  flocks  and  rendered  such  assistance  as  they  could.  There 
is  no  doubt  that  their  presence  awed  the  Turks  and  kept  them  from 
doing  many  things  that  they  had  it  in  their  hearts  to  do.  In  Har- 
poot  the  American  missionaries  and  three  hundred  Christians  were 
in  one  building.  A committee  of  Mollahs  came  and  called  Dr.  Bar- 
num  out  and  said,  “ Your  only  hope  is  in  becoming  Moham- 
medans.” Dr.  Barnum  said  that  that  was  impossible.  The  Mollahs 
went  back  to  the  others.  The  people  within  sang  a hymn,  prayed 
and  pledged  each  other  to  die  rather  than  deny  the  faith.  The 
building  was  set  on  fire,  but  the  Mollahs  did  not  wish  to  kill  so 
many  Americans  and  drew  off.  Some  boys  went  down  and  put  out 
the  fire.  At  one  point  the  friends  of  the  missionaries  used  their 
rifles  and  saved  the  girls’  school  from  outrages  worse  than  death. 
The  Board  was  able  to  forward  thousands  of  dollars,  and  to  success- 
fully intervene  when  all  other  help  failed.  Hundi'eds  of  thousands 
of  destitute  persons  were  fed  and  clothed,  and,  while  overwhelmed 
by  unexampled  and  immeasurable  calamity,  were  pointed  to  the 
consolations  of  the  Gospel.  The  work  done  by  the  agents  of  the 
Board  during  the  past  year  is  deserving  of  world-wide  recognition 
and  honor.  They  shall  have  their  recompense  at  the  resurrection 
of  the  just. 

Those  who  know  most  about  the  condition  of  the  country  urged 
me  not  to  go  to  Marsivan  to  see  Dr.  Kevorkian.  Brigands  of  all 
kinds  abound.  Recently  two  women  connected  with  the  legations 
were  seized  and  carried  off  to  the  mountains.  The  government 
paid  $50,000  for  their  release.  I reluctantly  gave  up  all  thought  of 
going  to  Marsivan.  Dr.  Kevorkian  is  there  alone.  In  the  time  of 
the  massacres  his  school  was  closed  for  a little  while.  The  wife 
of  the  Governor  was  ver}’  sick.  He  was  called  in,  and  by  the  bless- 
ing of  God  healed  her.  The  Governor  said  to  him,  “You  are  a 
good  man;  go  on  with  your  school;  no  one  shall  molest  you.” 
This  promise  has  been  kept.  Last  year,  when  he  was  in  Constan- 
tinople, his  papers  wrere  seized  and  he  was  detained  there  for 
months.  The  American  Minister  said  to  him,  “ You  are  a fool  to 
go  back.  The  Turks  will  surely  kill  you.”  He  said,  “Get  my 
papers,  and  I will  go  back  at  once;  they  can  kill  me  if  they  wish.” 

Lew  Wallace  said:  “I  have  often  been  asked,  ‘What  of  the 
missionaries  of  the  East?  Are  they  true,  and  do  they  serve  their 
Master?  ’ And  I have  always  been  a swift  witness  to  say,  and  I say 
it  solemnly  and  emphatically,  that  if  anywhere  on  the  face  of  the 
earth  there  exists  a band  of  devout  Christian  men  and  women,  it  is 


1.  Greek  Patriarch.  2.  Armenian  Catholicos.  3.  Armenian  Patriarch. 


EASTERN  PATRIARCHS. 


MISSIONS  IN  TURKEY 


341 


these.  They  live  and  die  in  their  work;  their  work  is  of  that  kind 
which  will  be  productive  of  the  greatest  good.”  This  evidence  is 
all  the  stronger  when  it  is  remembered  that  its  author  is  a Turko- 
phile.  Lord  Shaftsbury  spoke  of  the  American  missionaries  as  a 
happy  combination  of  piety  and  common  sense.  And  we  know  that 
this  testimony  is  true. 


LVII. 

CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  THE  TURKS. 


Constantinople  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Bosporus  and 
the  Sea  of  Marmora*  It  consists  of  three  divisions:  Stanibul  and 
Pera-Galata  in  Europe,  and  Scutari  in  Asia.  The  European  divi- 
sions are  separated  by  an  arm  of  the  sea  called  the  Golden  Horn. 
It  was  so  named  because  it  resembled  a stag’s  horn  and  because  it 
supplied  the  people  with  an  inexhaustible  quantity  of  fish.  The 
Golden  Horn  is  about  a thousand  yards  wide  at  its  mouth  and  about 
four  miles  long.  There  is  room  in  it  for  twelve  hundred  ships. 
Its  watei’s  are  so  deep  that  the  largest  war  ships  can  moor  close  to 
the.  shore.  More  than  six  hundred  years  before  Christ  a colony  of 
Greeks  settled  on  what  is  now  called  Stambul.  They  called  their 
city  Byzantium.  Constantine  took  this  city,  doubled  its  size,  built 
a wall  ai’ound  it,  made  it  the  capital  of  the  world,  and  called  it 
Constantinople.  He  invited  ancient  and  wealthy  families  from 
Rome  to  make  it  their  home.  Artists,  and  scholars,  and  merchants 
were  drawn  thither  by  the  hope  of  gain. 

A glance  at  the  map  of  the  Roman  Empire  will  show  that  Con- 
stantinople occupies  an  unrivaled  position.  It  is  in  Europe,  but 
within  easy  reach  of  Asia.  It  lies  between  the  Black  Sea  and  the 
Mediterranean.  All  ships  going  and  coming  paid  her  tribute.  The 
provinces  adjacent  were  populous  and  opulent.  Under  Constan- 
tine and  his  successors  the  New  Rome  became  the  center  and  source 
of  good  government  and  the  teacher  of  law  and  civilization.  Gib- 
bon tells  us  that  whatever  was  manufactured  by  the  skill  of  Europe 
or  Asia,  the  commerce  of  Egypt,  and  the  gems  and  spices  of 
farthest  India,  were  brought  to  her  for  many  ages.  There  was  a 
prospect  of  security  for  life  and  property  and  increase  in  wealth. 

Constantinople  has  a great  history.  The  part  she  has  played 
entitles  her  to  be  regarded  with  feelings  akin  to  those  we  cherish 
towards  Jerusalem,  Athens,  and  Rome.  In  the  year  668  the  Arabs 
made  their  first  attack.  They  were  beaten  back,  but  they  were  not 
dismayed.  Mohammedanism  never  gave  up  the  hope  of  ultimate 
conquest.  One  writer  says  that  there  is  nothing  in  the  history  of 

the  West  to  compare  with  the  tenacity  and  continuity  of  the  strug- 

342 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  THE  TURKS 


343 


gle  in  the  East.  In  the  West  two  or  three  great  battles  were 
fought.  Charles  Martel  at  Tours,  and  John  Sobieski  under  the 
walls  of  Vienna,  broke  and  beat  back  the  armies  of  the  Prophet  of 
Arabia;  but  in  the  East  there  were  ceaseless  struggles  for  centu- 
ries. Constantinople  was  assailed  by  the  Huns  and  other  savages 
from  the  north  of  the  Black  Sea,  and  by  the  Arabs  and  Turks  from 
the  south.  Army  after  army  was  annihilated,  but  others  took  their 
place,  and  the  work  had  to  be  done  over  again.  Constantinople 
spent  her  strength  fighting  the  battle  of  Europe  against  Asia,  of 
Christianity  against  Mohammedanism.  And  though  she  fell  at  last, 
time  was  gained  in  which  the  West  grew  strong  enough  to  drive 
back  the  invader  in  1683,  and  to  say,  “ Here  shall  thy  proud  waves 
be  stayed.”  Constantinople  was  the  citadel  against  which  the 
hitherto  irresistible  wave  of  Moslem  invasion  had  beaten  and  had 
been  broken.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  perfidy  and  ambition  of 
Venice  it  is  very  probable  that  this  great  city  would  never  have 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  Turk.  Venice  prevailed  on  the  leaders 
of  the  Fourth  Crusade  to  turn  aside  from  the  mission  in  which  they 
were  engaged  to  conquer  and  punish  their  great  commercial  rival. 
The  city  was  taken  and  sacked.  It  is  a sad  and  shameful  story. 
Never,  we  are  told,  was  there  a more  barbarous  sack  of  a city  than 
that  perpetrated  by  those  soldiers  of  Christ,  sworn  to  chastity, 
pledged  before  God  not  to  shed  innocent  blood,  and  having  on  them 
the  emblems  of  the  Prince  of  Peace.  The  lust  of  the  army  spared 
neither  the  maiden  nor  the  virgin  dedicated  to  God.  Violence  and 
debauchery  were  everywhere.  Pillage  was  unrestrained,  lust 
unbridled.  Soldiers  acted  as  if  they  had  been  trained  to  commit 
every  crime.  They  made  the  chief  church  in  the  city  the  scene  of 
their  profanity.  A prostitute  was  seated  in  the  Patriarchal  chair, 
who  danced  and  sang  ribald  songs  for  the  amusement  of  the  specta- 
tors. Because  of  this  the  Balkan  Peninsula  has  been  in  the  hands 
of  barbarians  for  four  centuries  and  a half,  and  all  attempts  to 
expel  the  Turks  from  Asia  Minor  have  failed. 

One  historian  says:  “Under  the  Emperors  of  the  East,  Constan- 
tinople preserved  the  treasures  of  ancient  thought  and  learning, 
whilst  the  rest  of  Europe  was  plunged  in  barbarism,  and  became 
the  greatest  commercial  city  in  the  world.  She  sent  missionaries 
who  gave  to  the  Sclavs  their  alphabets,  and  imparted  to  them  some 
rudiments  of  civilization,  and  most  of  the  Gi’eek  manuscripts  we 
possess  were  at  one  time  stored  in  her  libraries.  The  capture  by 
the  Turks  scattered  Greek  learning  among  the  Latin  and  Teutonic 
races;  and  Greek  manuscripts  of  the  Bible  conveyed  to  Western 


344 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Europe  were  one  of  the  principal  causes  of  the  revival  of  learning.” 
Out  of  the  revival  of  learning  came  the  German  Reformation.  In 
this  city  Justinian’s  legal  reforms  were  made.  The  Code,  the 
Institutes  and  Pandects  were  prepared  by  his  agents. 

Mohammed  II.  took  Constantinople  in  1453.  Since  that  time  it 
has  been  the  seat  of  Turkish  Government,  religious  and  secular. 
Saint  Sophia  has  been  changed  into  a mosque.  This  great  church 
was  built  by  Justinian.  Columns  were  taken  from  the  temple  of 
Diana  in  Ephesus,  from  Aurelian’s  temple  of  the  Sun,  and  from 
Egypt.  When  the  building  was  completed,  the  Emperor  said: 
‘‘Glory  to  God,  who  hath  thought  me  worthy  to  accomplish  so 
great  a work  ! I have  vanquished  thee,  O Solomon  ! ” A good 
judge  pronounces  it  the  fairest  and  noblest  church  in  the  world. 
The  Greeks  said  to  the  Russian  envoys:  “ What  ! do  you  not  know 
that  the  angels  come  down  from  heaven  to  mingle  in  our  services?” 
This  noble  structure  was  defaced  and  defiled.  Minarets  were 
erected  and  other  additions  made  to  adapt  it  to  Mohammedan  wor- 
ship. But  Saint  Sophia  was  a church,  and,  please  God,  it  shall  be 
a church  again.  Mosques  have  been  built  in  all  parts  of  the  city. 
They  are  by  far  the  most  conspicuous  objects  in  the  whole  land- 
scape. There  can  be  no  doubt  as  to  the  dominant  faith  in  Constan- 
tinople. The  city”  of  Constantine  and  Theodosius  and  Justinian 
and  Chrysostom  is  the  most  thoroughly  Mohammedan  city  in 
Europe  or  Asia,  with  the  exception  of  Mecca.  The  Sultan  is  not 
only  an  absolute  monarch,  but  Khaliff  as  well.  The  whole  Moham- 
medan world,  with  the  single  exception  of  Persia,  look  to  him  as 
their  spiritual  guide.  Not  only  so,  but  the  Greek  and  Armenian 
Patriarchs  and  the  chief  Rabbi  of  the  Jews  live  there. 

While  I was  in  Constantinople,  I could  not  but  deplore  that  the 
feuds  of  Christian  people  enabled  the  Turk  to  enter  Europe.  For 
the  Turk  in  Europe  is  as  much  out  of  place  as  a pig  in  a parlor. 
The  Turks  were  converted  to  Islam  while  they  were  savages. 
Islam  arrests  development;  consequently  the  Turks  are  where  they 
were  a thousand  years  ago.  They  have  a thin  veneer  of  civilization, 
and  by  courtesy  they  are  called  civilized,  but  they  are  not.  In 
policy  and  in  practice  the  Turk  is  a savage.  He  is  not  a builder; 
he  is  a destroyer.  Asia  Minor  has  been  desolated.  Ephesus  is  a 
ruin.  Nicea  is  a village.  Hundreds  of  towns  and  cities  have  dis- 
appeared; mines  have  been  deserted.  People  do  not  raise  more 
than  enough  to  support  life.  The  nerve  of  endeavor  has  been  cut. 
All  incentives  to  enterprise  and  economy  have  been  done  away. 
The  countries  under  Turkish  control  are  capable  of  supporting  ten 


Mrs.  Shishmanian.  G.  N.  Shishmanian.  Dr.  Garabed  Kevorkian. 


MISSIONARIES  IN  TURKEY. 


COXSTAXTIXOPLE  AXD  THE  TUBES 


345 


times  their  present  population.  Mesopotamia  is  naturally  one  of 
the  most  fertile  countries  on  the  globe;  Mesopotamia  is  occupied 
by  nomads.  Turkey  ought  to  be  as  prosperous  as  the  United  States 
or  England.  There  is  there  the  natural  basis  of  a populous  and 
wealthy  empire.  But  the  people  are  indescribably  poor.  There 
are  almost  no  roads.  Agriculture  is  in  a very  backward  state. 
Labor-saving  machinery  is  all  but  unknown.  The  women  spin  and 
weave  as  their  ancestors  did  three  thousand  years  ago. 

I was  told  by  several  that  the  Turkish  government  is  not  a gov- 
ernment in  any  true  sense  of  the  word.  It  is  a machine  to  tax  and 
oppress  and  exterminate  the  people  These  are  words  of  truth  and 
soberness.  The  first  duty  of  a government  is  to  maintain  peace, 
and  to  protect  the  lives  and  property  of  the  people,  and  to  foster 
industry.  A great  statesman  has  said:  “What  we  wish  is  that 
where  there  has  been  despondency  there  shall  be  hope ; where  there 
has  been  mistrust  there  shall  be  confidence;  where  there  has  been 
alienation  and  hate  there  shall  be  woven  the  ties  of  a strong  attach- 
ment between  man  and  man.”  Nothing  could  be  more  foreign  to 
the  Turkish  mind.  There  is  no  sense  of  security.  The  safeguards 
that  Christian  nations  place  around  the  individual,  so  that  he  can 
not  be  deprived  of  life,  or  liberty,  or  property,  except  for  cause  and 
by  due  process  of  law,  are  unknown  in  this  empire.  In  former 
times  the  Armenians  were  the  bankers  of  Constantinople.  It  is  so 
no  longer.  They  were  accused,  imprisoned,  and  their  property 
confiscated.  There  are  only  a few  left;  soon  there  will  be  none. 
If  the  Turks  covet  the  lands  or  homes  of  the  subject  races,  nothing 
is  easier  than  to  get  possession.  The  owner  is  arrested  and  tortured 
till  he  is  willing  to  assign  all  his  rights  to  his  accuser.  The  streets 
swarm  with  police  and  soldiers.  They  parade  the  streets  mounted 
and  afoot.  Spies  are  abroad  in  all  sorts  of  disguises.  Innocent 
men  are  sent  to  prison,  or  into  exile,  or  to  the  gallows.  They  have 
no  trial  in  which  reliable  witnesses  are  called  to  testify.  The 
courts  afford  the  accused  no  protection  and  no  redress.  Justice  is 
bought  and  sold  like  any  other  commodity.  If  the  Palace  demands 
a man’s  condemnation  he  may  as  well  abandon  hope.  I heard  a 
court  official  tell  of  a man  who  was  brought  to  trial.  His  inno- 
cence was  demonstrated.  One  judge  refused  to  condemn  him. 
Another  was  called  in,  and  the  man  was  sentenced  to  fifteen  years 
of  hard  labor.  The  Palace  demanded  that  he  be  condemned.  Men 
are  hung  on  the  streets,  not  because  they  have  done  any  wrong,  but 
to  warn  others. 

Improvements  are  prohibited  or  discouraged.  The  telephone 


346 


A CIRCUIT  OF  TEE  GLOBE 


and  the  electric  light  are  forbidden.  There  is  no  local  post  in  Con- 
stantinople. There  is  no  such  thing  as  rapid  transit.  These  things 
might  enable  the  people  to  concoct  a revolution.  An  officer  is  in 
every  newspaper  office  to  see  that  no  obnoxious  words  or  senti- 
ments appear.  He  reads  the  articles  before  they  are  printed.  No 
criticism  of  any  officer  or  of  any  action  is  allowed.  Whatever  is 
done  must  be  praised.  If  any  additional  proof  was  needed  that  the 
Turk  is  a savage,  the  recent  massacres  supply  it.  Every  intelligent 
man  in  Turkey  believes  that  the  Sultan  planned  and  superintended 
these  atrocities.  The  people  did  not  rise  of  their  own  accord  and 
kill  and  ravish;  they  acted  under  orders.  The  Sultan  is  responsi- 
ble for  the  massacres  and  their  attendant  outrages.  One  proof  is 
this:  No  foreigner  ivas  killed.  Mobs  do  not  discriminate  so  care- 
fully. Not  less  than  eighty  thousand  Armenians  pei'ished,  and 
thousands  of  others  were  subjected  to  unspeakable  outrages.  This 
massacre  was  a blunder  as  well  as  a crime.  The  Turk  does  not 
work;  he  is  a leech  on  the  body  politic;  he  expects  to  fill  an  office 
or  serve  in  the  army.  The  people  put  to  death  were  among  the 
most  industrious  in  the  nation.  They  created  the  wealth  and  paid 
the  taxes.  They  supported  the  Turks.  To  kill  them  was  to  kill 
the  goose  that  laid  the  golden  egg.  What  is  the  result  ? The 
nation  is  on  the  verge  of  bankruptcy.  No  business  is  done.  The 
custom  house  does  not  take  in  enough  to  pay  the  officials.  Money 
has  to  be  sent  to  the  Asiatic  provinces  to  support  the  Government. 
Police  and  soldiers  and  other  officers  are  unpaid.  The  army  is 
ready  to  mutiny.  The  interest  on  the  public  debt  can  not  be  paid. 
The  Armenians  have  been  decimated,  bankers  and  traders  have 
been  plundered — but  to  what  purpose  ? The  savage  has  over- 
reached himself.  There  is  nothing  in  history  to  be  compared  with 
the  Armenian  massacres.  Herod,  and  Nero,  and  Domitian,  and 
Jack  the  Ripper  were  mere  tyros  in  butchery  when  their  deeds  are 
placed  beside  those  of  the  present  Sultan.  The  Turk  would  not 
allow  the  name  of  Armenia  to  appear  on  the  maps  or  to  occur  in 
any  school  book  or  to  be  published  in  any  paper.  He  would  blot 
the  name  from  the  records  and  minds  of  men.  Meanwhile  the 
world  was  ringing  with  “Armenia”  and  “Armenian  atrocities.” 
And  if  the  Sultan  shall  find  any  place  in  history  it  will  be  as  the 
destroyer  of  the  Armenians. 

Speaking  to  Mr.  Shishmanian  about  those  who  had  turned 
Mohammedans  through  fear,  he  said,  “I  wonder  they  do  not  all  go 
over  in  a body.  If  a man  says,  ‘ I am  a Mohammedan,’  all  persecu- 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  THE  TURKS 


347 


tion  creases.  He  is  protected,  provided  for,  and  promoted  to 
honor.”  But  tens  of  thousands  preferred  death  to  apostasy. 

We  paid  a visit  to  Robert  College.  Dr.  Hamlin  founded  an 
academy;  that  grew  into  the  present  institution.  Its  property  is 
worth  $450,000.  The  pupils  for  the  current  year  number  two  hun- 
dred and  twenty-two.  Thei’e  are  eight  professors  and  fifteen  other 
instructors.  The  pupils  are  from  the  Greeks,  Armenians,  Bulga- 
rians, Protestants,  Maronites  and  Nestorians.  Robert  College  is 
built  on  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots  in  the  world,  and  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  Turkey.  It  overlooks  the  Bosporus.  From  its 
tower  one  can  see  the  Black  Sea  and  Constantinople  and  the  Mar- 
mora. It  stands  near  the  fortress  built  by  the  Turks  before  taking 
Constantinople.  On  the  same  place  Darius  crossed  on  his  way  to 
fight  the  Scythians.  The  Turks  hate  this  school,  and  would  be  glad 
to  buy  and  close  it.  They  do  all  they  can  to  hinder  its  progress. 
It  took  three  years  to  get  a permit  to  build  a house  for  the  Presi- 
dent. They  have  difficulty  in  getting  books  and  maps  through  the 
customs.  Turkish  boys  are  taken  away  from  the  school.  Robert 
College  helped  to  make  Bulgaria.  It  trained  its  Prime  Minister 
and  other  leading  men.  It  has  profoundly  influenced  Turkish 
politics.  One  Professor  spoke  hopefully  of  the  future.  He  has 
seen  the  Turkish  dominion  curtailed.  Persia,  Hungary,  Georgia, 
Greece,  Algeria,  Tunis,  Cyprus,  Egypt,  Thessaly,  Routnania,  Ser- 
via,  Montenegro,  Bulgaria,  Eastern  Rumelia,  Bosnia  and  Herzego- 
vinia,  and  the  strip  of  Eastern  Anatolia  containing  Batoum  and 
Kars : all  these  are  either  wholly  or  partly  free  from  Turkish  con- 
trol. Because  God  reigns  and  his  purposes  can  not  be  defeated, 
the  day  of  Turkey’s  dissolution  can  not  be  very  far  distant.  The 
Turk  entered  Europe  because  Christians  did  not  keep  the  unity  of 
the  Spirit;  the  Turk  is  in  Europe  because  of  international  jeal- 
ousies. If  these  could  be  adjusted,  he  would  leave  Europe,  bag 
and  baggage,  never  to  return.  May  God  hasten  his  departure  ! 

Mr.  Shishmanian  took  me  to  see  the  Great  Church  and  the  Hip- 
podrome. The  Green  and  Blue  factions  used  to  contend  there  for 
the  mastery.  The  seats  have  been  used  in  building  mosques.  Half 
the  site  has  been  occupied  by  a mosque,  the  remainder  is  used  as  a 
parade  ground.  We  went  to  see  the  old  walls  and  the  Seven 
Towers  and  the  Golden  Gate.  Through  this  Belisarius  and  other 
successful  generals  marched  in  triumph.  John  took  me  to  the  top 
of  one  of  the  fire  towers.  The  city  has  no  fire  engines  or  adequate 
fire  department.  There  are  two  fire  towers,  and  watchmen  are 
there  day  and  night.  If  a fire  is  seen,  runners  are  sent  to  warn  the 


348 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


people.  Some  firemen  carry  a machine  on  their  shoulders  and  save 
the  buildings  of  such  as  pay  them  for  their  services.  Sometimes  as 
many  as  two  thousand  buildings  perish  in  a few  hours.  Mr.  Shish- 
manian  and  John  came  with  me  to  the  ship.  I had  to  show  my 
passport  to  leave  the  country.  A detective  told  the  boatman  that 
took  us  out  to  the  ship  that  he  took  out  two  men  without  passports 
and  he  would  hold  him  responsible  for  their  return.  I felt  safer 
and  breathed  more  freely  after  our ’ship  got  outside  of  Turkish 
waters.  Turkey  was  the  only  country  in  my  trip  in  which  I felt  any 
concern  about  safety.  The  first  thing  I did  when  I awoke  in  the 
morning  was  to  feel  whether  my  head  was  on  or  off.  Then  I looked 
around  to  see  if  the  building  had  been  burned  during  the  night. 
Then  I looked  under  the  bed  and  searched  the  closets  to  see  if  any 
detectives  were  concealed  thei’e.  I left  with  the  highest  admiration 
of  those  who  remain  and  carry  on  the  Lord’s  work  in  the  face  of 
manifold  discouragements  and  dangers. 


LVIII. 


FROM  CONSTANTINOPLE  TO  COPENHAGEN. 

We  left  Constantinople  as  the  sun  was  setting.  As  our  ship 
steamed  out  of  the  Golden  Horn  and  entered  the  Sea  of  Marmora 
we  got  our  last  view  of  this  illustrious  and  picturesque  city.  The 
next  morning  we  passed  out  through  the  Hellespont  into  the  iEgean. 
During  the  day  we  saw  the  coast  of  Asia  and  Europe  and  many  of 
the  isles  of  Gi'eece.  We  crossed  Paul’s  course  as  he  went  from 
Troas  to  Samothrace,  Neapolis  and  Philippi,  bearing  the  Gospel  to 
Europe.  The  second  morning  we  dropped  anchor  in  the  Pirteus. 
Going  ashore,  we  took  a carriage  and  drove  to  Athens.  We  felt  at 
once  that  we  were  in  a different  atmosphere.  Greece  is  as  unlike 
Turkey  as  the  sweet  air  of  heaven  is  unlike  a dungeon.  Before  one 
is  through  the  custom  house  he  feels  that  he  is  in  a civilized  land 
again. 

After  breakfast  I went  out  to  see  the  city.  The  center  of  inter- 
est to  me  was  Mars’  Hill.  Standing  where  the  High  Court  of 
Athens  used  to  sit,  I read  Paul’s  address.  Rejected  at  Philippi,  he 
came  to  Thessalonica  and  Berea,  and  thence  to  Athens.  In  the 
synagogue  he  reasoned  with  the  Jews  and  devout  persons,  and  in 
the  market-place  every  day  with  them  that  met  him.  Certain  of 
the  Epicurean  and  Stoic  philosophers  encountered  him.  They  took 
him  to  the  Areopagus,  saying,  “ May  we  know  what  this  new  teach- 
ing is?”  Athens  then  was  the  chief  seat  of  Greek  learning  and 
civilization.  She  was,  what  Milton  called  her,  “ the  eye  of  Greece, 
mother  of  arts  and  eloquence.”  No  other  city  on  the  globe  has 
produced  so  many  great  men.  On  all  sides  of  Paul  were  master- 
pieces of  genius.  On  the  Acropolis  were  the  Parthenon  and  the 
Temple  of  Victory.  Over  the  most  perfect  building  in  the  world 
stood  the  colossal  statue  of  Minerva.  Her  shield  and  spear  glitter- 
ing in  the  sun,  were  seen  by  the  sailors  far  out  at  sea,  and  served  to 
guide  them  into  port.  The  Agora  was  the  center  of  a glorious  pub- 
lic life.  Here  orators,  poets,  statesmen,  philosophers,  and  artists 
found  incentives  of  their  noblest  enthusiasms.  Here  the  populace 
came  together  to  hear  or  tell  of  some  new  thing.  The  place  was 
adorned  with  temples,  altars  and  other  sacred  buildings. 

349 


350 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


It  is  very  different  now.  Athens  is  a modern  city;  there  is  little 
of  the  city  of  Pericles  and  Paul  left.  The  Apostle’s  soul  was  pro- 
voked when  he  saw  the  whole  city  given  to  idolatry.  It  was  easier 
to  find  a god  than  a man.  They  worshiped  all  the  gods  they  knew 
and  erected  an  altar  to  the  unknown  God.  It  is  not  so  at  the  present 
time.  These  temples  and  altars  have  for  the  most  part  disappeared. 
The  Temple  of  Theseus  has  escaped  the  hand  of  the  vandal.  Some 
columns  of  the  great  temple  of  Jupiter  still  stand.  The  Parthenon 
has  been  a church  and  a mosque;  it  is  now  a ruin.  The  Turks  used 
it  as  a powder  magazine.  The  Venetians  bombarded  it  and  fired 
the  magazine  and  destroyed  the  building.  Lord  Elgin  carried  away 
most  of  the  treasures  that  remained  and  gave  them  to  the  British 
Museum.  The  theater  of  Dionysos,  the  cradle  of  dramatic  art 
in  Greece,  the  place  where  the  masterpieces  of  iEschylus,  Sopho- 
cles, Euripides,  and  Aristophanes  first  excited  admiration  and 
delight,  are  silent  and  tenantless.  The  Pnyx  was  the  place  where 
the  political  assemblies  were  held.  Here  Demosthenes  and  others 
almost  as  eloquent  were  heard.  This  hill  is  deserted  by  all  save 
tourists.  The  Athens  of  to-day  has  street  cars,  electric  light,  sew- 
ers, a palace  for  the  king,  schools,  a university  and  a museum.  It 
is  now  a crime  to  carry  away  any  antiquities.  I ran  a race  through 
the  museum.  Hurried  as  my  visit  was,  it  was  sufficient  to  give  a 
conception  of  its  treasures.  A month  could  be  profitably  spent 
within  its  walls.  Some  public-spirited  men  are  endeavoring  to 
reproduce  as  much  of  the  old  life  and  spirit  as  possible.  The 
Olympic  games  are  revived.  A magnificent  amphitheater  of  white 
marble  is  being  erected.  A new  day  has  dawned  on  Greece. 

One  afternoon  we  drove  out  to  Marathon.  It  was  a long  drive. 
The  plain  where  the  battle  was  fought  is  bounded  by  the  sea  and  by 
a chain  of  high  hills.  Here  ten  thousand  Greeks  under  Miltiades 
vanquished  a Persian  army  twelve  times  as  numerous.  The  Per- 
sians thought  they  were  mad  to  attempt  such  an  impossible  enter- 
prise. While  they  were  musing  the  Greeks  swept  down  upon  them 
with  incredible  velocity  and  power  and  swept  them  into  the  sea.  A 
large  mound  was  built  over  the  fallen  Athenians;  there  is  no  other 
monument.  As  one  stands  on  this  plain  he  feels  that  “ ’tis  haunted, 
holy  ground.”  At  Thermopylae,  Leonidas  and  his  three  hundred 
held  the  whole  Persian  army  in  check  till  he  was  betrayed  and  his 
force  annihilated.  Soon  after,  at  Salamis  and  Platea,  the  Persians 
were  crushed  and  driven  back  from  Greece  forever. 

As  I walked  through  the  streets  of  Athens,  and  as  I met  the  peo- 
ple, I could  not  but  ask:  “What  of  the  future?  Is  the  golden  age 


FROM  CONSTANTINOPLE  TO  COPENHAGEN 


351 


of  this  beautiful  land  in  the  past?  Shall  the  race  that  gave  to  the 
world  such  men  as  Pericles,  Themistocles,  Socrates,  Plato, Aristotle, 
Zeno,  Phidias,  Apelles,  Praxiteles,  not  give  many  more  of  equal  or 
greater  ability?  It  should  be  so.  In  any  case  the  past  is  secure. 
The  whole  world  is  thinking  Greek  thoughts  and  using  Greek 
methods.  The  great  names  of  Greece  can  never  die. 

“Their  spirits  wrap  the  dusky  mountain, 

Their  memory  sparkles  o’er  the  fountain  ; 

The  meanest  rill,  the  mightiest  river, 

Goes  murmuring  with  their  fame  forever.” 

We  crossed  Greece  from  Athens  to  Patras  by  train.  On  the  way 
we  passed  through  many  places;  the  most  important  of  these  is 
Corinth.  In  the  New  Testament  time  this  city  was  noted  for  its 
wealth,  its  luxury  and  its  profligacy.  Aphrodite  was  its  patron. 
In  her  temple  a thousand  priestesses  ministered.  In  this  city  Paul 
came,  after  his  apparent  failure  in  Athens.  Here  he  lived  and 
worked  with  Aquila  and  Priscilla.  Every  Sabbath  he  reasoned  in 
the  synagogue  and  persuaded  Jews  and  Greeks.  When  the  Jews 
opposed  and  blasphemed  he  shook  out  his  raiment  and  said,  “ I am 
clean;  from  henceforth  I will  go  unto  the  Gentiles.”  He  went 
into  the  house  of  Titus  Justus.  Crispus,  the  ruler  of  the  syna- 
gogue, believed,  and  many  Corinthians  hearing,  believed,  and  were 
baptized.  The  Lord  appeared  to  him  in  a vision  and  said,  “ Be  not 
afraid,  but  speak,  and  hold  not  thy  peace;  for  I am  with  thee,  and 
no  man  shall  set  on  thee  to  harm  thee;  for  I have  much  people  in 
this  city.”  Here  he  spent  a year  and  six  months.  Here  he  reaped 
“the  largest  and  noblest  harvest  ever  given  to  ministerial  toil.” 
Corinth  now  is  a small  place.  Most  of  the  houses  I saw  are  of  mud, 
and  are  occupied  by  poor  people.  I met  no  missionary  and  heard 
of  none.  In  Athens  the  American  Minister  told  me  that  the  Chris- 
tians of  the  West  evidently  think  the  Greeks  as  good  as  them- 
selves. Perhaps  this  remark  applies  to  Corint  h as  well. 

At  Patras  we  boarded  the  ship  which  we  left  at  Athens,  and 
started  towards  Brindisi.  Our  course  was  through  the  Ionian  and 
Adriatic  Seas.  We  touched  at  Corfu  and  another  small  place.  A 
ride  of  fourteen  hours  took  us  from  Brindisi  to  Rome.  The  coun- 
try is  level  much  of  the  way.  The  fields  are  covered  with  vines  and 
grain.  The  houses  are  small  and  poor.  The  people  are  meanly 
clad.  The  grain  is  cut  and  threshed  in  the  most  primitive  way. 
Women  work  in  the  fields  with  the  men.  There  are  no  signs  of 
enterprise  or  prosperity.  Towards  evening  we  reached  and  crossed 
the  Apennines.  There  are  villages  on  the  tops  or  far  up  the  sides. 


352 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


They  were  built  there  for  defense.  The  peasants  are  grouped  in 
villages,  and  seldom  live  on  their  farms.  Long  before  reaching  the 
city  we  saw  the  arches  on  which  aqueducts  rested  for  ages.  Far 
against  the  sky  we  saw  the  mighty  dome  of  St.  Peter’s. 

Most  of  the  buildings  in  Rome  are  modern.  At  the  same  time 
there  are  more  buildings  and  ruins  belonging  to  antiquity  than  in 
any  city  I visited.  I saw  the  ruins  of  the  palace  of  Caligula,  the 
wall  built  by  Romulus,  the  house  of  Germanicus,  the  church  which 
Michael  Angelo  made  out  of  the  baths  of  Diocletian,  the  Coliseum, 
the  church  of  St.  John  Lateran,  the  church  of  the  Chains,  the 
Forum,  the  Baths  of  Caracalla,  the  Pantheon,  St.  Peter’s,  the 
Forum  and  Pillar  of  Trajan,  the  Catacombs,  the  Vatican  Museum 
and  Gallery,  the  Tiber,  the  Cloaca  Maxima,  and  St.  Paul’s  Outside 
the  Walls.  The  Coliseum  is  the  most  impressive  ruin  in  the 
world.  It  held  one  hundred  thousand  spectators.  On  the  arena 
gladiators  fought,  and  Christians  fought  with  wild  beasts.  The 
sports  of  that  time  were  bloody  and  barbarous.  The  walls  are 
standing;  the  seats  and  fixtures  are  gone  or  are  broken  down.  The 
church  of  St.  John  Lateran  claims  to  be  the  mother  of  all  the 
churches  in  the  city  and  in  the  world.  It  is  the  Pope’s  church.  He 
lived  in  the  palace  adjoining  before  removing  to  the  Vatican.  St. 
Peter’s  cost  fifty  millions,  and  is  the  largest  church  in  existence. 
It  is  built  on  the  site  of  Nero’s  circus.  Here  Christians  were  clad 
in  coats  of  pitch  and  burned  like  candles,  while  the  Emperor  acted 
as  a charioteer.  In  the  Vatican  I saw  the  Laocoon,  the  Apollo 
Belvidere,  the  torso  Michael  Angelo  so  much  admired,  and  all  the 
other  great  works  in  that  marvelous  collection.  In  the  Sistine 
Chapel  I saw  the  celebrated  frescoes  representing  the  Creation  and 
the  Judgment.  In  Raphael’s  room  I saw  the  Transfiguration  and 
his  other  famous  paintings.  The  earliest  pictures  of  Christ  made 
him  as  ugly  as  possible.  The  prophet  had  said,  “ His  visage  was  so 
marred  more  than  any  man.”  Raphael  and  the  latest  painters 
represent  him  as  the  perfection  of  beauty.  St.  Paul’s  Outside  the 
Walls  has  portraits  of  all  the  Popes,  beginning  with  Peter  and  com- 
ing down  to  Leo  XIII.  This  building  claims  to  have  the  body  of 
Paul  under  its  altar.  The  Pantheon  is  the  most  perfect  of  all  the 
buildings  of  antiquity.  It  is  now  a church.  Iu  it  Raphael  and 
Victor  Immanuel  are  buried. 

I called  on  the  Methodist  missionaries  in  their  fine  building. 
They  gave  me  an  account  of  their  work  in  Rome  and  Italy. 
They  have  twenty-seven  churches,  property  worth  $160,000, 
twenty-four  ministers,  1,083  members,  583  scholars  in  their  Sun- 


/ tm 


THE  PARTHENON. 


THE  COLISEUM. 


FROM  COXSTAXTIKOPLE  TO  COPEXHAGEX 


353 


day-schools,  ten  boys  in  their  Theological  Seminary,  while  their 
publishing  house  sends  out  a million  pages  a year.  The  Wal- 
denses,  the  Baptists,  and  several  other  bodies  are  operating  in  this 
field.  In  all,  about  250  missionaries,  pastors  and  evangelists 
are  at  work.  The  Congregation  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Faith 
has  its  home  here.  Its  aim  is  to  propagate  the  religion  of  Rome 
in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Its  funds  are  adequate  to  the  most 
expensive  and  magnificent  undertakings.  By  it  a vast  number  of 
missionaries  are  sent  to  the  remotest  corners  of  the  globe,  books  of 
various  kinds  are  published  to  facilitate  the  study  of  foreign  and 
barbarous  languages,  houses  are  erected  for  the  instruction  and 
support  of  youths  from  pagan  lands  who  are  being  prepared  to 
return  and  work  among  their  own  people.  It  maintains  charitable 
institutions  for  the  relief  of  those  who  have  suffered  banishment  or 
other  calamities  on  account  of  their  faith.  Its  revenues  are  vast, 
and  its  exploits  incredible.  Near  by  is  the  Seminary  for  the  Propa- 
gation of  the  Faith.  This  institution  is  set  apart  for  the  education 
of  those  designed  for  the  foreign  field.  Here  they  are  brought  up 
with  the  greatest  care,  in  the  knowledge  of  the  languages  and  sci- 
ences that  are  necessary  to  prepare  them  for  the  most  effective 
service.  I called  at  the  American  Catholic  College.  The  rector 
told  me  that  sixty  young  men  are  there  under  instruction.  The 
course  is  as  high  as  that  of  the  Catholic  University  in  Washington. 
Rome  is  full  of  churches;  the  buildings  are  vast,  and  costly,  and 
superb.  At  the  same  time  they  are  of  little  value.  The  people 
are  ignorant,  and  superstitious,  and  poor.  It  is  with  a sad  heart 
one  contemplates  all  this  material  grandeur  and  the  condition  of  the 
bulk  of  the  population. 

Leaving  Rome  I passed  through  Pisa,  Milan,  Zurich,  Schaff- 
hausen,  Heidelberg,  and  in  due  time  came  to  Hamburg.  In  Switz- 
erland I saw  the  Alps  and  several  lakes,  the  St.  Gothard  Tunnel, 
and  the  Falls  of  the  Rhine.  North  of  the  mountains  the  country 
appears  more  prosperous.  Most  of  the  workers  in  the  field  are 
women;  the  men  are  in  the  army  keeping  the  peace.  From  Ham- 
burg I went  to  Kiel.  There  we  took  a ship  and  crossed  an  arm  of 
the  Baltic  to  Korsor.  From  Korsor  I went  to  Copenhagen  by  rail. 

23 


LIX. 

IN  SCANDINAVIA. 


On  reaching  Copenhagen  I found  O.  C.  Mikkelsen  and  Julius 
Cramer  waiting  for  me  at  the  station.  They  took  me  to  the  pleas- 
ant home  of  Dr.  Hoick.  I was  surprised  to  learn  that  Mrs.  Hoick 
is  an  American.  She  was  born  and  reared  and  married  near  Pitts- 
burg. She  has  a good  cook  and  a soft  bed.  The  stranger  within 
her  gates  feels  thankful  that  he  is  alive  to  partake  of  such  hospi- 
tality. Winsome  little  Maggie  and  John  make  the  joy  of  the  family 
complete.  An  American  flag  flies  from  a tall  pole  in  front  of  the 
house.  While  I was  their  guest  I slept  under  the  shining  folds  of 
this  banner  of  glory  and  of  beauty. 

It  was  on  Saturday  evening  that  I arrived.  The  next  day  I 
spoke  twice  to  the  church.  Dr.  Hoick  interpreted  for  me.  The 
house  was  full.  The  people  could  not  have  been  more  cordial. 
They  shook  my  hand  till  my  arm  was  lame.  The  congregations 
were  made  up  of  intelligent  and  neatly  dressed  people.  They  are 
all  poor;  no  member  is  worth  as  much  as  one  thousand  dollars.  In 
view  of  their  limited  incomes  they  are  very  liberal.  Persons  earn- 
ing four  crowns  a week  give  half  a crown  to  the  church.  The  build- 
ing is  the  best  Dissenting  house  in  the  city.  It  is  well  located  and 
well  arranged.  It  cost  $22,000,  and  is  worth  more  to-day  than  it 
cost.  The  work  here  began  in  1876.  Dr.  Hoick,  the  pioneer,  was 
born  and  educated  in  Jutland.  He  came  to  America  and  practiced 
medicine.  After  uniting  with  the  Central  Chui-ch  in  Cincinnati,  he 
was  asked  to  go  to  Denmark  as  a missionary.  He  gave  up  a growing 
and  lucrative  practice  and  went.  He  has  built  a good  church  in 
Copenhagen,  and  has  done  a fine  work  in  Norway.  He  has  had  to 
face  much  bitter  and  persistent  opposition.  Denmark  has  a state 
church.  Dissenters  have  some  difficulties  relating  to  marriage, 
funerals,  and  baptisms.  The  people  regard  rebaptism  as  the  sin 
against  the  Holy  Spirit.  For  this  sin  there  is  no  forgiveness,  either 
in  the  present  or  coming  age.  If  children  are  not  christened,  they 
are  heathen;  in  case  they  die,  they  are  damned.  His  own  mother 
said  to  Dr.  Hoick:  “ If  you  had  a child  I would  steal  it  and  have  it 
christened.  I could  not  sleep  till  this  was  done.”  According  to 

354 


IX  SCANDINAVIA 


355 


their  views,  people  are  regenerated  in  baptism,  and  are  kept  in  a 
saved  state  by  the  sacraments.  Dr.  Hoick  was  taken  before  the 
courts  for  baptizing  a minor.  Some  rough  fellows  threatened  to 
throw  him  out  of  the  window.  The  court  decided  in  his  favor. 
Some  years  ago  his  health  began  to  fail.  Knowing  that  he  would 
not  be  able  to  preach  much  longer,  he  began  to  publish  a paper  for 
children.  This  venture  has  succeeded  far  beyond  his  most  sanguine 
expectations.  For  ten  years  he  has  had  no  salary  from  the  Society. 
Not  only  so,  but  he  has  given  a thousand  dollars  a year  to  carry  on 
the  work.  His  pi’esence  in  any  church  is  a joy  and  an  inspiration. 
He  has  preached  in  Denmark  and  in  Norway,  and  wishes  to  enter 
Sweden.  He  regards  Sweden  as  the  most  fruitful  field  of  the  three. 
With  ten  thousand  dollars  a j7ear,  he  could  take  the  whole  of  Scan- 
dinavia. This  is  less  than  the  annual  grant  of  the  Methodist  Epis- 
copal Society  for  thirty  years.  In  addition  to  his  other  good  works, 
Dr.  Hoick  supports  a young  man  in  college  who  is  preparing  to 
enter  the  ministry. 

O.  C.  Mikkelsen  and  Julius  Cramer  are  at  work  in  Copenhagen. 
They  are  directed  and  assisted  by  Dr.  Hoick  as  Timothy  and  Titus 
were  by  Paul.  One  preaches  at  the  church,  the  other  preaches  at 
the  mission.  Besides  preaching  they  conduct  a little  church  paper. 
Mr.  Mikkelsen  is  a Dane.  He  was  led  to  Christ  by  his  sister  and 
baptized  by  his  brother.  In  1878  he  l’emoved  to  Copenhagen.  Here 
he  met  Dr.  Hoick  and  united  with  the  Disciples.  Two  }rears  later 
he  came  to  America.  He  attended  Oskaloosa  College  for  two  terms 
and  the  College  of  the  Bible  for  two  years,  returned  to  Denmark  in 
1885,  and  has  aided  in  the  mission  ever  since.  He  has  a wife  and 
three  children.  Mr.  Cramer  was  born  in  Schleswig,  went  through 
the  schools  of  Denmark,  learned  photography,  and  worked  on  a 
newspaper  for  three  years.  At  the  age  of  twenty-one  he  became  a 
Christian  and  soon  began  to  preach.  In  1891  he  came  to  America 
and  attended  Drake  University.  He  was  graduated  from  the 
English  Bible  Course,  and  returned  to  Copenhagen  to  preach  the 
Gospel  to  his  kindred  and  countrymen.  They  are  both  good  and 
faithful  servants. 

On  Monday  morning  Dr.  Hoick  and  I left  to  visit  the  churches 
in  Norway.  Before  taking  the  train  we  drove  around  Copenhagen, 
and  saw  the  principal  buildings  and  places  of  general  interest.  We 
saw  the  royal  palace,  the  museum  of  Thorwaldsen,  many  schools 
and  churches,  factories  and  stores,  the  docks  and  shipping.  After 
an  hour’s  ride  on  the  train  we  crossed  over  on  a boat  to  Sweden. 
On  the  way  we  saw  the  castle  in  which  Hamlet  lived,  and  near 


356 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


which  he  was  buried.  In  Sweden  we  took  a train  for  Fredericks- 
hald.  All  day  we  saw  signs  that  the  people  are  religious.  The 
churches  are  numerous.  Lutheranism  is  the  predominant  faith, 
but  the  Catholics,  Methodists,  Baptists  and  Presbyterians  ai’e  also 
represented.  The  country  most  of  the  Avay  is  poor.  We  were  in 
sight  of  the  sea  all  the  time.  We  spent  a night  at  Gothenburg. 
This  city  has  given  its  name  to  one  method  of  dealing  with  the 
liquor  traffic.  In  the  evening  we  went  out  into  the  park  to  hear  the 
music  and  to  see  the  people.  We  saw  much  drinking,  but  the  peo- 
ple were  quiet  and  orderly.  Men  had  their  wives  and  children  with 
them.  They  drank  deliberately.  We  saw  no  drunkenness  and  no 
rowdyism.  In  England  and  Scotland,  so  travelers  say,  there  is  far 
more  drunkenness  than  in  Norway.  The  public  houses  are  closed  on 
Sunday.  The  topers  get  gloriously  drunk  on  Saturday.  They  take 
enough  to  last  them  till  Monday.  The  next  afternoon  we  reached 
Frederickshald.  That  evening  we  had  a service  in  the  church. 
The  building  seats  four  hundred.  Though  they  had  short  notice 
they  had  a line  audience.  Dr.  Hoick  gave  them  an  address  on  his 
own  account  and  then  interpreted  my  thoughts.  Frederickshald 
has  a population  of  ten  thousand.  The  church  has  two  hundred 
and  twenty  members.  A.  Johnson  is  the  preacher.  He  spent  some 
time  in  Drake  University,  and  will  be  remembered  by  many  in 
America.  The  next  day  I went  to  Christiana,  the  capital  of  Nor- 
way. Niels  Devoid  and  Harald  Wester  went  with  me.  A good 
beginning  has  been  made  in  Christiana.  The  people  propose  to  buy 
a building  and  repair  it.  They  propose  to  rent  the  lower  floors,  and 
use  the  top  story  as  a place  of  meeting.  The  service  lasted  two 
hours.  No  one  was  weary  or  in  a hurry  to  get  home.  All  seemed 
pleased.  The  “Amens  ” were  frequent  and  fervent.  The  Norwe- 
gians are  peerless  listeners.  I was  told  that  if  six  men  would  speak 
in  succession,  each  speaking  an  hour,  the  people  would  be  as  fresh 
at  the  end  as  at  the  beginning.  Here  an  address  an  hour  long  is  a 
weariness  to  the  flesh;  there  an  hour’s  address  is  only  an  appetizer. 
There  are  twenty  of  our  churches  in  Norway.  They  are  at  the  fol- 
lowing places:  Frederickshald,  Christiana,  Frederickstad,  Horten, 
Moss,  Holmsbo,  Sande,  Berger,  Svelvig  Naersnaes,  Eidsvold,  Risor, 
Ivragero,  Gjeithus,  Naesodden,  Onso,  Thorsnaes,  Sarpsburg,  Skibt- 
vedt,  Aremark,  Lillestrom,  Vaaler,  Holmestrand,  Bogen.  Ten  of 
these  churches  have  houses  of  worship.  These  houses  are  not  large 
nor  splendid,  but  they  are  sufficient  for  all  purposes.  The  names 
of  the  preachers  are  as  follows:  Edvard  Neilsen,  Niels  Devoid, 

Harald  Wester,  A.  Johnson,  Henrik  Nevland.  The  people  are  lib- 


1.  H.  N.  Wester.  2.  Niels  Devoid. 

4.  K.  Larsen.  3.  Edw.  Nilsen.  5.  A.  Johnson. 


WORKERS  IN  SCANDINAVIA. 


IN  SCANDINAVIA 


357 


eral.  Most  of  them  do  not  earn  over  four  or  five  dollars  a week. 
When  they  give  a thousand  crowns  for  Christian  work  it  means  con- 
siderable self-sacrifice.  The  membership  is  intelligent.  They  sup- 
port three  papers.  One  is  called  The  Bible  Friend,  one  Things 
New  and  Old,  and  one  The  Sword  and  Trowel. 

The  Norwegians  are  very  much  like  the  Scotch,  as  Norway  and 
Scotland  are  very  much  alike.  Both  are  mountainous.  The  lakes 
of  the  one  correspond  to  the  fiords  of  the  other.  The  Norwegians 
are  serious  and  deeply  religious.  The  Danes  live  in  a level  country, 
and  are  a light-hearted  people.  Norway  is  a much  more  hopeful 
field  than  Denmark.  The  Danes  are  addicted  to  pleasure.  With 
them  Sunday  is  a day  of  recreation.  The  Gospel  is  making  its  way 
in  Norway.  Every  Christian  carries  his  New  Testament  in  his 
pocket,  and  is  ready  to  give  a reason  for  his  hope  and  faith.  There 
is  no  opposition  from  the  State  church.  At  the  first  baptism  thou- 
sands came  out  to  see.  They  got  boats,  and  climbed  upon  every 
“coigne  of  vantage.”  They  sang  hallelujahs  and  praised  God. 
The  Norwegians  are  a polite  people.  They  , salute  men  whether 
they  are  acquainted  or  not.  Men  take  off  their  hats  to  each  other 
on  the  street.  I was  told  that  in  Germany  men  take  off  their  hats 
to  men,  but  not  to  women. 

The  Norwegians  are  an  amphibious  race  now  as  their  fathers 
were.  They  live  as  much  on  sea  as  on  land.  They  catch  cod, 
mackerel,  salmon  and  flounders.  They  fish  in  winter  as  well  as  in 
summer.  They  are  true  descendants  of  the  old  Vikings.  These 
men  issued  from  their  bays  and  creeks  and  pillaged  every  part  of 
Europe.  They  were  found  as  far  east  as  the  Black  Sea  and  as  far 
west  as  Labrador  and  Rhode  Island.  Charlemagne  shortly  before 
his  death  saw  their  strange  boats  and  burst  into  passionate  tears. 
His  courtiers  said,  “These  ships  must  be  from  the  coast  of  Africa, 
or  Jewish  merchantmen,  or  British  traders.”  The  great  king  said, 
“ No;  these  are  not  the  ships  of  commerce;  I know  by  their  light- 
ness of  movement,  they  are  the  galleys  of  the  Norsemen;  and 
though  I know  such  miserable  pirates  can  do  me  no  harm,  I cannot 
help  weeping  when  I think  of  the  miseries  they  will  inflict  on  my 
descendants  and  the  lands  they  shall  rule.”  They  became  the 
scourge  of  every  land  and  the  terror  of  every  sea. 

After  speaking  in  Christiana  we  took  the  train  for  Gothenburg 
and  Copenhagen.  Mrs.  Hoick  and  the  children,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  S. 
Von  Leimback,  Messrs.  Mikkelsen  and  Cramer  and  several  others 
met  us  at  the  train.  We  had  supper  in  the  station.  Then  I took 
the  train  for  Hamburg  and  Paris  and  London.  Before  leaving,  Dr. 


358 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


and  Mrs.  Hoick  supplied  me  with  such  things  as  I needed  on  the 
journey,  and  some  things  that  will  serve  me  well  for  years  to  come. 
On  our  trip  to  Norway  Dr.  Hoick  insisted  on  paying  all  bills.  He 
did  far  more  for  me  than  I wished.  He  is  a princely  soul,  and  I 
had  no  choice  but  to  submit.  After  such  delightful  comradeship, 
my  ride  that  night  was  inexpressibly  dreary,  and  made  me  realize 
anew  that  it  is  not  good  for  man  to  be  alone. 


LX. 


FROM  COPENHAGEN  TO  LONDON. 

We  left  Copenhagen  in  the  evening  aud  reached  Hamburg  the 
next  morning.  This  city  on  the  Elbe  is  interesting  to  the  student 
of  missions,  for  it  was  from  here  that  the  Gospel  was  carried  into 
Scandinavia.  Charlemagne  undertook  to  Christianize  all  the  tribes 
about  the  Baltic,  and  failed.  Louis  the  Pious  founded  a bishopric 
at  Hamburg  and  secured  the  appointment  of  Anskar  as  bishop  and 
apostolic  vicar  over  all  the  North.  Anskar  built  a cathedral  and 
monastery;  he  bought  Danish  boys  and  trained  them  for  the  priest- 
hood, and  sent  many  laborers  into  Sweden.  When  Louis  died  the 
Danish  king  apostatized,  the  Swedish  missionaries  were  driven  out, 
the  Norse  swept  down  on  Hamburg  and  utterly  destroyed  the  city 
and  church  and  monastery  and  library.  Anskar  was  reduced  to  the 
verge  of  starvation.  Coveting  the  martyr’s  crown,  he  would  not 
give  up  the  task  to  which  he  felt  called  of  God.  In  course  of  time 
Hamburg  was  rebuilt  and  elevated  into  a metropolitan  see,  and 
Anskar  was  made  archbishop.  He  sent  out  new  men  into  Sweden, 
and  the  work  proceeded  without  further  hindrance.  Canute  the 
Great  and  Olaf  the  Saint  materially  assisted  the  evangelization  of 
Denmark.  Norway  was  won  to  the  faith  by  workers  from  Nor- 
mandy and  England.  In  the  tenth  century  Hamburg  was  an  out- 
post of  civilization  and  was  surrounded  by  savage  tribes.  Hamburg 
is  now  a great  seaport.  From  this  city  ships  go  to  all  parts  of  the 
world. 

At  this  point  I took  a train  for  Cologne.  The  principal  object 
of  interest  in  this  city  on  the  Rhine  is  the  cathedral.  This  great 
building  was  seven  hundred  years  in  course  of  erection.  As  we  had 
to  spend  three  hours  in  Cologne,  I walked  about  the  cathedral  and 
studied  it  from  every  side.  I attended  a vesper  service.  There 
were  thousands  present.  Incense  filled  the  house.  The  priests  and 
acolytes  went  through  their  parts  with  precision,  but  I went  away  as 
hungry  as  I came.  Better  five  words  in  a known  tongue  than  ten 
thousand  iu  an  unknown.  The  rumbling  echoes  kept  me  from 
understanding  a word  that  was  said  or  sung.  The  priests  were  as 

barbarians  to  me,  and  I was  as  a barbarian  to  them.  It  was  in 

359 


300 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


Cologne  that  Coleridge  said  he  “counted  two  and  seventy  stenches, 
all  well  defined,  and  several  stinks.”  Since  that  time  this  city  has 
been  cleansed,  and  now  is  as  free  from  bad  odors  as  any  other  place 
in  Europe. 

The  next  stop  was  made  in  Paris.  As  my  stay  was  necessarily 
brief  every  hour  was  precious.  Securing  a guide,  I went  to  the 
Eiffel  Tower,  the  Luxembourg  Palace,  the  Hotel  des  Invalides  and 
Tomb  of  Napoleon,  the  Gardens  of  the  Tuileries,  the  Pantheon, 
the  Arch  of  Triumph,  the  Place  of  Concord,  the  Column  Vendome, 
the  Champs  Elysees,  the  site  of  the  Bastile,  Notre  Dame  Cathedral, 
the  Madeline  Church,  and  the  Louvre.  Paris  has  in  the  Louvre  the 
most  extensive  and  valuable  art  collection  on  the  Continent.  There 
are  works  of  such  masters  as  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Correggio, 
Raphael,  Holbein,  Fra  Bartolommeo,  Titian,  Murillo,  Durer,  Rem- 
brandt, Van  Dyck,  Rubens,  and  Teniers,  not  to  mention  many  oth- 
ers almost  equally  renowned.  The  most  famous  piece  of  statuary 
is  the  Venus  of  Milo.  Paris  is  the  gayest  and  most  beautiful  city 
in  the  Old  World.  The  French  people  have  taste  and  genius,  and 
they  have  spared  neither  money  nor  labor  in  making  their  capital 
attractive. 

While  in  Paris  I called  at  the  Bible  House  and  at  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  McAll  Mission.  There  are  one  hundred  and  thirty-six 
halls  in  which  services  are  held.  There  are  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
two  meetings  a year  in  each  hall.  The  Gospel  is  preached  about 
twenty-two  thousand  times  a year.  In  all  the  large  cities  of  France 
there  are  agents  of  this  mission  at  work.  A map  of  the  mission  is 
a map  of  France.  The  Gospel  has  been  carried  into  Corsica,  Algiers 
and  Tunis.  Mr.  McAll  was  past  middle  life  when  he  went  to  Paris. 
The  passions  of  the  people,  excited  bj'  the  German  Siege  and  the 
Commune,  had  not  subsided.  People  regarded  each  other  with  dis- 
trust. The  church  was  identified  with  an  oppressive  social  order. 
Clericalism  was  the  foe  of  the  Republic.  Priests  had  been  mur- 
dered. Dr.  McAll  came  from  without.  He  belonged  to  no  party. 
He  came  to  preach  a religion  of  freedom  and  reality.  The  French 
pastors  assisted  him  in  every  way  possible.  Dr.  McAll  was  pecu- 
liarly qualified  for  such  a work.  He  had  private  means.  He  did 
not  ask  for  anything  for  himself.  He  fancied  that  he  was  the  hap- 
piest man  on  earth.  His  was  a wonderful  wealth  of  joy.  He  found 
that  complete  consecration  of  every  energy  to  do  what  the  Master 
requires  is  the  secret  of  a quiet,  unmingled  and  perennial  joy  of 
heart.  He  had  that  priceless  gift,  a sense  of  humor.  The  owner  of 
a shop  went  to  him  and  told  him  her  terms.  She  had  heard  of  the 


DR.  HOLCK  AND  FAMILY,  COPENHAGEN,  DENMARK. 


FROM  COPEXHAGEX  TO  LOXDOX 


361 


meetings  and  inquired  about  them.  Being  told  that  they  were  not 
Jewish  nor  Catholic,  she  seemed  puzzled.  Then  light  dawned  on 
her,  and  she  told  him  that  he  was  like  herself,  “ a person  of  no 
religion  whatever.”  As  the  staff  of  workers  increased  the  munici- 
pal authorities  reduced  the  police  f-orce.  The  government  honored 
itself  in  making  him  a Chevalier  of  the  Legion  of  Honor.  The 
illustrious  founder  of  the  mission  is  dead,  but  God  carries  on  his 
own  work. 

I left  Paris  for  London  by  way  of  Rouen  and  Dieppe.  I had 
heard  so  much  about  the  Channel  that  I expected  to  be  sick,  but  I 
was  disappointed.  I fell  asleep  before  the  boat  started,  and  did  not 
know  that  we  were  on  the  way  till  we  reached  England.  I was  glad 
to  be  among  people  who  speak  the  English  language.  From  there 
on  I had  no  need  of  guides  or  interpreters.  England  is  the  chief 
missionary  country  on  the  globe.  Her  people  give  more  money  to 
evangelize  the  non-Christian  nations  than  all  other  peoples  com- 
bined. England  is  the  great  world  power.  Her  colonies  and  ships 
are  everywhere.  Her  colonial  expansion  has  fostered  the  mission- 
ary spirit.  The  English  people  not  only  give  liberally,  but  they  go 
out  to  preach  Christ  to  those  who  never  heard  the  joyful  sound. 
Many  go  at  their  own  charges  or  are  supported  by  their  family. 
Some  have  gone  from  castle  and  palace  and  hall  to  take  part  in 
this  the  greatest  of  all  enterprises.  England  is  unquestionably  the 
greatest  country  of  the  Old  World.  The  average  Englishman  is  a 
higher  type  of  man  than  the  average  man  of  any  other  European 
nation.  Well  did  her  great  bard  speak  of  England  as 

“ This  royal  throne  of  kings,  this  sceptered  isle, 

This  earth  of  majesty,  this  seat  of  Mars, 

This  other  Eden,  demi-paradise ; 

This  fortress  built  by  nature  for  herself, 

Against  infection,  and  the  hand  of  war ; 

This  happy  breed  of  men,  this  little  world, 

This  precious  stone  set  in  a silver  sea, 

This  blessed  plot,  this  earth,  this  realm,  this  England.’' 

Reaching  London,  I drove  to  the  home  of  Dr.  J.  A.  Brooks.  The 
Doctor  and  Mrs.  Brooks  received  me  gladly.  I was  expected,  and 
announced  to  preach  at  the  Tabernacle.  From  this  church  mission- 
aries have  gone  out  to  China,  India  and  Jamaica.  The  people  were 
deeply  interested  in  all  that  I had  to  say.  There  is  a debt  of  ten 
thousand  dollars  on  the  property.  The  congregation  is  far  from 
wealthy.  They  are  doing  well,  but  they  cannot  meet  their  exjDenses 
and  carry  on  all  departments  of  the  work  without  aid.  In  time  the 
debt  will  be  paid.  Then  the  Tabernacle  will  be  self-supporting. 


362 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


This  church  has  been  served  by  Henry  Varley,  W.  T.  Moore  and  G. 
T.  Walden.  At  the  home  of  Dr.  Brooks  I met  W.  J.  Hunnex,  of 
China.  He  has  spent  seventeen  years  in  that  field  and  knows  our 
men  there.  He  took  me  to  Hornsey  Chapel.  This  is  where 
William  Durban  preaches.  The  house  was  packed  with  eager  and 
magnetic  listeners.  Mr.  Durban  was  born  in  London  and  brought 
up  in  the  Church  of  England.  He  studied  in  King’s  College,  and 
was  graduated  from  the  London  University.  While  reading  Spur- 
geon’s sermons  his  views  of  baptism  were  revolutionized.  He 
taught  in  Hereford  and  in  Spurgeon’s  College.  Afterwards  he 
preached  on  the  Isle  of  Wight  and  in  Chester.  In  Chester  he  met 
M.  D.  Todd  and  accepted  the  principles  of  the  Disciples  of  Christ. 
After  returning  to  London  and  serving  as  Secretary  of  the  Monthly 
Tract  Society,  he  was  engaged  by  the  Foreign  Christian  Missionary 
Society.  He  has  preached  at  Tasso  and  at  Hornsey.  Meanwhile  he 
has  helped  to  edit  the  Christian  Commonwealth.  I am  under  many 
obligations  to  him  and  Mrs.  Durban  for  hospitality  and  for  many 
other  kindnesses.  On  the  way  to  the  Commonwealth  office  he  took 
me  to  see  the  grave  of  John  Wesley.  We  went  into  the  church  and 
stood  in  Wesley’s  pulpit.  Across  the  street  is  the  Bunhill  grave- 
yard. Here  Susanna  Wesley,  the  mother  of  Methodism,  John  Bun- 
yan,  Daniel  Defoe,  and  many  other  worthies,  sleep. 

In  the  Commonwealth  office  we  found  Paul  Moore,  R.  G.  Porter 
and  C.  C.  Hetherington.  Paul  Moore  is  the  managing  editor.  He 
is  a worthy  son  of  his  parents.  Though  possessed  of  unusual  lit- 
erary ability,  he  rarely  refers  to  himself.  He  puts  his  life  into  the 
paper,  and  allows  that  to  speak  for  him.  Dr.  Porter  has  been  help- 
ing in  the  office  all  summer.  With  him  this  has  been  a labor  of 
love.  Mr.  Hetherington  is  the  business  manager  of  the  Common- 
loealth.  He  has  been  with  the  paper  from  the  beginning,  and  is  a 
trusted  friend  and  adviser  of  the  proprietors.  The  Commonwealth 
was  founded  sixteen  years  ago  by  W.  T.  Moore  and  Timothy  Coop. 
It  is  one  of  the  few  really  able  papers  published  in  London.  It  is 
read  by  Baptists,  Episcopalians,  Congregationalists,  and  by  believ- 
ers of  all  names  and  creeds.  It  has  exerted,  and  is  exerting,  a 
mighty  influence.  Many  of  the  strongest  and  best  men  in  England 
are  among  its  contributors. 

Jesse  Stockford  is  in  charge  of  the  work  at  Fulham.  He  was 
born  among  the  Primitive  Methodists.  When  he  came  to  years  of 
discretion  he  was  associated  with  Henry  Varley  at  the  West  London 
Tabernacle.  He  served  as  deacon  and  elder  for  twenty  and  as  the 
pastor  for  two  years.  Then  he  was  called  to  succeed  Mr.  Durban. 


FROM  COPENHAGEN  TO  LONDON 


363 


la  four  years,  between  seventy  and  eighty  have  been  brought  into 
the  Church.  In  addition  to  those  already  mentioned,  I met  in  Lon- 
don George  Rapkin  and  L.  H.  Gow.  Mr.  Rapkin  was  born  a 
Roman  Catholic.  While  yet  a youth  he  united  with  the  Baptists, 
and  entered  the  Salvation  Army.  He  traveled  all  over  the  British 
Islands  and  in  seventeen  other  countries.  He  was  on  the  staff. 
General  Booth  told  him  that  if  he  was  baptized  he  would  have  to 
get  out.  He  fell  in  with  G.  T.  Walden  and  was  baptized,  and  left 
the  army.  Thirteen  months  ago  he  opened  a work  in  Margate. 
For  two  seasons  he  preached  every  night  on  the  beach.  He  baptized 
twenty-one  and  received  six  others.  Mr.  Gow  labored  in  Jamaica 
for  some  time.  After  his  return  he  took  charge  of  the  work  in 
Southampton.  This  is  the  church  that  II.  S.  Earl  organized.  Mr. 
Gow  reports  good  audiences  and  frequent  additions.  The  church  is 
preparing  to  erect  a building  for  the  Sunday-school.  On  a previous 
visit,  I saw  Parliament  Buildings,  Westminster  Abbey,  St.  Paul’s, 
the  British  Museum,  and  Spurgeon’s  Tabernacle. 


LXI. 


FROM  LONDON  TO  CINCINNATI. 

From  London  I went  to  Gloucester.  E.  H.  Spring,  the  minister 
in  charge,  met  me  at  the  station.  The  people  were  excited.  Glou- 
cester had  an  epidemic  of  smallpox.  Vaccination  was  on  trial. 
Out  of  fifty-two  that  had  been  vaccinated  twice,  fifty  died.  A new 
method  was  tried  and  success  reported.  The  physicians  were  said 
to  be  determined  to  maintain  their  creed  and  practice  at  any  cost. 
Mr.  Spring  was  the  foremost  champion  of  the  new  treatment.  He 
and  the  church  did  what  they  could  to  aid  the  poor.  He  was  fined 
ten  pounds  for  some  technical  violation  of  the  law.  The  citizens 
felt  that  he  was  persecuted  and  paid  the  fine.  Mr.  Spring  is  a most 
energetic  man.  He  has  gotten  himself  and  his  work  before  the 
public  as  never  before,  and  expects  to  reap  a great  harvest.  We 
had  a service  in  the  Tabernacle,  at  which  I spoke.  I spent  the 
evening  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Arthur  Mitchell.  He  is  a telegraph 
operator  and  a preacher  of  the  Gospel. 

T.  H.  Bates  came  down  from  Cheltenham  to  the  meeting.  He 
gave  a good  account  of  the  work  at  that  point.  Mr.  Bates  is  an 
Australian,  and  is  known  to  many  in  America.  He  was  educated  in 
Lexington,  being  graduated  in  1872,  in  the  same  class  as  C.  P. 
Williamson  and  J.  Z.  Tyler.  He  has  preached  in  Australia  and 
New  Zealand.  When  the  panic  struck  Melbourne  he  walked  four 
hundred  miles  to  Coolgardie  and  spent  four  months  there  in  the 
gold  mines.  Then  he  sailed  for  England.  Some  time  after  his 
arrival  he  took  the  work  at  Cheltenham.  He  reports  frequent 
additions.  The  church  needs  a building  of  its  own. 

Gloucester  has  quite  a history.  Here  Robert  Raikes  opened  the 
first  Sunday-school  in  a small  building  still  standing.  Here  the  elo- 
quent George  Whitfield  was  a bell-boy  in  a tavern.  Dr.  Jenner 
lived  in  this  county  and  his  statue  is  in  the  cathedral.  Here  Bishop 
Hooper  was  burned.  John  Long,  a blind  solicitor,  and  a remark- 
ably intelligent  man,  took  me  in  his  carriage  to  see  the  places  of 
renown.  He  is  a charming  conversationalist.  It  is  a delight  to 
listen  to  his  glowing  descriptions  of  things  that  interest  him.  He  is 
a genuine  Disciple,  and  is  acquainted  with  our  history  and  work. 

364 


1.  Jesse  Stockford,  Loudon.  2.  H.  L.  Gow.  Southampton. 

3.  J.  A.  Brooks.  London.  4.  T.  H.  Bates,  Cheltenham.  5.  E.  M.  Todd,  Chester. 
~.  George  Rapkin,  Margate.  6.  H.  M.  Black,  Liverpool. 

AN  ENGLISH  GROUP. 


FROM  LONDON  TO  CINCINNATI 


3G5 


He  is  collecting  all  the  versions  of  the  Bible  that  he  can  find.  He 
has  some  rare  and  valuable  works,  and  some  curious  ones  on  his 
shelves.  In  one  version  a familiar  passage  runs  thus:  “ Peter  said 

to  them,  repent  with  unfeigned  contrition,  and  let  every  one  of  you 
be  baptized  into  the  profession  that  Jesus  is  the  true  Messiah.  If 
you  do  this  your  former  sins  will  be  expunged,  and  you  also  will  be 
favored  with  the  gifts  of  the  Holy  Spirit.  For  this  supernatural 
donation  which  you  now  see  conferred  upon  us  is  also  to  extend  to 
you  and  yours,  and  to  all  persons  in  the  remotest  parts  of  the  world 
who  shall  comply  with  this  divine  invitation.”  What  a mercy  that 
the  Bible  was  not  always  translated  in  this  stilted  style!  Mr.  Long 
gave  me  a copy  of  Erasmus’  Greek  New  Testament,  and  an  armful 
of  other  books  to  read  on  the  voyage. 

From  Gloucester  I went  by  way  of  Birmingham,  Wolverhamp- 
ton, Crewe  and  Liverpool  to  Southport.  Here  the  sainted  Timothy 
Coop  lived  for  many  years,  and  here  his  two  sons,  Joe  and  Frank, 
have  their  homes.  Timothy  Coop  was  the  first  man  among  the  Dis- 
ciples of  Christ  to  give  on  a large  scale.  His  sons  follow  in  his 
steps.  They  give  as  much  time  to  the  work  of  the  church  as  to 
their  own  business.  Joe  is  Treasurer  of  the  English  Committee. 
Since  Geo.  T.  Walden  left  for  Australia,  Frank  has  been  serving  as 
Secretary.  Their  wives  are  as  deeply  interested  and  as  active  in 
church  and  missionary  work  as  their  husbands.  Here  I met  W.  T. 
Moore.  He  was  rejoicing  over  the  success  of  the  Bible  College  in 
Columbia.  J.  H.  Versey  and  E.  M.  Todd  happened  to  be  in  South- 
port  at  that  time.  They  came  to  attend  a meeting  of  the  Commit- 
tee. The  church  here  has  been  enlarged  and  refui'nished.  Alfred 
Johnson  is  the  preacher  in  charge.  The  evening  I spoke  the  house 
was  comfortably  filled. 

After  a day  spent  in  Southport  I ran  down  to  Birkenhead.  Eli 
Brearley  and  wife  are  in  charge  of  the  work  here.  Mr.  Brearley 
has  spent  some  time  in  India  as  a missionary.  Since  he  came  to 
Birkenhead  the  church  has  taken  on  new  life.  The  audiences  are 
large  and  conversions  are  frequent.  We  had  a fine  service  in  this 
church.  Mrs.  Brearley  preaches,  and  preaches  as  well  as  her  hus- 
band, and  is  most  active  and  efficient  in  all  departments  of  the 
work.  Mr.  Versey  accompanied  me  to  Birkenhead.  He  preaches 
in  Lancaster  and  Ingleton.  The  work  at  these  points  is  not  with- 
out its  difficulties  and  perplexities,  but  he  works  right  on  in  the 
assurance  that  his  labor  is  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord.  He  spent  some 
time  in  Jamaica,  and  told  me  some  amusing  incidents  illustrating 


366 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


the  way  the  humble  people  there  get  the  Scriptures  confused  in 
their  minds.  One  prayed  for  the  pastor  in  charge,  and  added,  “ He 
is  young  in  years,  but  old  in  sin,  and  desperately  wicked.”  Another 
prayed  for  “ our  pastor,  as  he  walks  to  and  fro  in  the  eai’th  seeking 
whom  he  may  devour.”  Another  still  referred  “ to  Moses  in  the 
whale’s  belly,  crying  out,  ‘Almost  thou  persuadest  me  to  be  a 
Christian.’  ” 

My  next  appointment  was  with  the  church  at  Chester.  This  is 
one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  England,  and  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque. Here  Julius  Caesar  had  his  camp  before  Christ  was  born. 
The  many  friends  of  Earl  M.  Todd  will  be  glad  to  know  that  he  is 
doing  a good  work  here.  He  believes  that  wise,  patient,  and  persist- 
ent effort  will  win  the  day.  He  is  studious,  prudent,  and  consecrated. 
He  is  a man  of  God,  and  his  influence  is  telling  on  Chester.  He  is 
held  in  as  high  esteem  as  was  his  sainted  father  in  his  day.  Mrs.  M. 
D.  Todd  is  editor  of  the  Gleaner ; she  is  a valuable  helper  in  the 
work.  Flora  is  the  sunshine  of  the  home,  and  gives  promise  of  a 
life  of  great  usefulness  and  nobleness.  England  is  nothing  if  not 
conservative.  Caste  obtains  here  as  in  India.  The  lines  are  not  so 
clearly  drawn,  but  they  are  clear  enough.  The  upper  classes  have 
their  church  connections,  and  will  not  listen  to  any  new  thing.  Dis- 
sent is  odious  and  vulgar.  Even  among  the  Dissenters  there  are 
strong  prejudices.  Earl  Todd  was  not  admitted  to  the  Ministerial 
Fraternal.  There  is  some  talk  now  of  admitting  him.  As  long  as 
there  was  any  chance  of  his  failing,  he  was  heterodox;  now  that 
success  is  assured,  he  is  becoming  orthodox.  A preacher  must  live 
in  a certain  way  to  be  respected.  If  his  wife  should  wash  her  own 
windows  or  scrub  her  own  floors  or  answer  the  door-bell,  she  and 
her  husband  would  exert  no  influence.  Snobbery  is  still  a power  in 
the  land,  whatever  may  be  said  about  the  nobility  of  service. 

My  last  visit  in  England  was  made  with  H.  M.  Black.  He  was 
in  charge  of  the  church  in  Liverpool.  He  preached  in  Australia 
and  in  Kansas  before  taking  this  work  in  England.  His  father  and 
brothers  are  all  preachers.  Mr.  Black  has  spoken  to  the  Y.  M.  C. 
A.  on  the  missionary  work  of  the  Disciples  of  Christ.  On  the 
streets  he  has  spoken  on  the  sin  of  sectism,  the  need  of  union,  and 
kindred  topics.  He  is  a chemist,  and  goes  back  to  his  profession. 
He  expects  to  preach  nearly  as  much  as  ever.  I met  his  brother 
Arthur.  He  is  a successful  dentist  and  an  effective  preacher. 

Having  seen  the  brethren  in  England,  I left  Liverpool  on  one  of 
the  largest  and  fastest  ships  afloat.  We  had  a quick  and  safe  trip 


FROM  LONDON  TO  CINCINNATI 


367 


across  the  Atlantic.  Had  it  not  been  for  a dense  fog  the  last  night 
we  would  have  broken  all  records.  Among  the  passengers  were  two 
ferocious  Americans  of  Celtic  birth.  A concert  was  given  for  the 
benefit  of  the  sailors’  orphans.  One  of  the  two  paid  six  pence  for 
a ticket.  When  he  saw  on  the  programme  that  the  last  number  was 
“ God  Save  the  Queen,”  he  went  and  demanded  his  six  pence  back. 
The  other  was  a woman.  When  the  audience  rose  to  sing  the 
national  anthem,  she  kept  her  seat  as  if  she  had  been  glued  to  it. 
She  would  not  rise  in  honor  of  any  “ furrin  queen.”  Such  oddities 
add  to  the  enjoyment  of  an  ocean  voyage.  They  supply  something 
to  smile  at.  Anyone  who  causes  two  persons  to  laugh  where  only 
one  laughed  before  is  a public  benefactor.  The  great  ship  is  ele- 
gant in  all  its  appointments,  but  eighty-six  stewards  sleep  in  one 
room.  When  they  get  up  in  the  morning  they  sometimes  faint. 
Some  bleed  at  the  lungs,  and  others  suffer  from  blood  poisoning. 
It  is  the  duty  of  the  Board  of  Trade  to  prevent  this  abuse.  When 
the  inspector  comes  on  board  he  is  invited  to  a royal  feast,  and 
supplied  with  champagne,  and  forgets  the  business  on  which  he 
came.  Once  in  a while  one  steward  will  sacrifice  himself  in  the 
interest  of  the  others.  He  is  dismissed,  and  in  a few  days  things  go 
on  as  usual. 

One  is  not  on  American  soil  ten  seconds  before  he  feels  that  he 
is  in  a new  world.  The  atmosphere  is  different:  there  is  more 
ozone  in  it;  the  people  are  different:  there  is  more  life  and  push  in 
them.  New  York  is  the  greatest  city  I saw  on  my  trip.  London  is 
larger,  but  London  is  an  agglomeration  of  villages.  London  does 
not  have  an  electric  or  cable  car  within  her  borders.  The  omnibus 
moves  along  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five  miles  an  hour.  No  one  in 
London  is  in  a hurry.  The  waiters  in  the  restaurants  are  delight- 
fully deliberate;  one  course  is  eaten  and  digested  before  the  next 
appears.  You  leave  about  as  hungry  as  you  entered.  In  New  York 
every  one  is  alive  and  active;  steam  and  electricity  are  the  principal 
moving  causes.  The  train  brought  me  to  Cincinnati  in  twenty-four 
hours.  On  the  platform  were  F.  M.  Rains,  C.  W.  Paris,  J.  M. 
Hoffner,  A.  L.  Chapman,  S.  M.  Cooper,  N.  P.  Runyan,  John  and 
Edward  Dorman,  and  the  preachers  in  and  about  Cincinnati  in  a 
body.  It  was  pleasant  to  see  their  friendly  faces  and  to  grasp  their 
friendly  hands.  That  evening  I went  to  Mt.  Healthy  and  slept  in 
my  own  room.  In  my  absence,  the  good  woman  who  cared  for  me 
so  many  years  entered  into  rest.  She  and  several  other  members  of 
the  congregation  which  I served  were  not  at  the  reception  held  in 


368 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


honor  of  my  return.  They  have  joined  the  choir  invisible  whose 
music  is  the  gladness  of  the  world. 

So  ended  my  circuit  of  the  globe.  I was  gone  a year  and  two 
weeks,  and  traveled  about  forty  thousand  miles.  In  all  that  time  I 
met  no  accident  and  missed  no  connection  or  appointment.  The 
prayers  of  many  thousands  went  up  to  God  in  my  behalf,  and  he 
brought  me  back  home  in  health  and  safety. 


E.  E.  F;iris. 


Dr.  H.  N.  Biddle. 


MISSIONARIES  TO  AFRICA. 


LXII. 


SOME  IMPRESSIONS— CONCLUSION. 

A tour  of  the  world  increases  one’s  respect  for  the  peoples  of 
all  lands.  God  has  made  of  one  blood  every  nation  of  men.  The 
most  backward  people  have  all  the  elements  possessed  by  the  most 
advanced.  Let  them  have  the  Gospel  for  a reasonable  time,  and  we 
will  not  be  ashamed  to  call  them  brethren. 

“Children,  we  are  all 
Of  one  great  Father,  in  whatever  clime 
His  providence  hath  cast  the  seed  of  life ; 

All  tongues,  all  colors.” 

All  nations  need  the  Gospel.  Many  think  of  non-Christian  peo- 
ple as  objects  of  pity,  and  feel  that  they  should  be  evangelized  on 
that  account.  These  peoples  are  not  conscious  of  need ; they  are 
not  calling  for  help ; it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  they  need  the 
Gospel  apart  from  all  considerations  of  poverty  and  misery.  They 
would  need  it  if  they  were  clothed  in  purple  and  fine  linen  and 
fared  sumptuously  every  day.  The  Brahman  and  Mandarin  need 
the  Gospel  as  much  as  the  pariah  and  leper.  The  old  faiths  are 
not  sufficient.  God  made  the  soul  for  himself,  and  it  can  find  no 
rest  till  it  rests  in  him.  All  peoples  are  capable  of  receiving  the 
Gospel.  I have  seen  Hawaiians,  Japanese,  Chinese,  Malays,  Tamils, 
Hindus,  Singhalese,  Eurasians  and  Arabs  whose  faces  were  made 
bright  and  beautiful  by  the  truth  and  by  the  Spirit  of  God. 

The  Gospel  has  taken  a firm  hold  of  the  non-Christian  nations. 
In  the  nature  of  the  case  it  could  hardly  be  otherwise.  The  work- 
ers have  opened  chapels,  schools,  hospitals  and  orphanages.  Every 
day  in  the  year  the  truth  is  pressed  home  to  the  hearts  and  con- 
sciences of  the  people.  In  times  of  famine  and  pestilence  the 
afflicted  are  relieved.  The  Scriptures  have  been  translated,  and 
Christian  literature  has  been  scattered  far  and  near.  The  great 
inventions  that  are  the  glory  of  our  civilization  have  been  intro- 
duced. If  the  continual  dropping  of  water  wears  the  rock,  the 
perpetual  and  varied  efforts  of  the  missionaries  must  accomplish 
much.  If  all  the  foreigners  were  driven  out  the  native  Christians 
would  take  up  and  carry  on  the  work  to  completion. 

(24)  369 


370 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


The  work  of  missions  is  now  more  widespread  than  most  people 
know.  It  is  not  confined,  as  is  sometimes  said,  to  treaty  ports  and 
foreign  concessions  and  well-known  lines  of  travel.  In  all  the 
Provinces  of  China,  save  one,  there  are  missionaries  at  work.  Not 
only  so,  they  are  in  Mongolia  and  Manchuria,  and  are  waiting  for 
the  doors  of  Thibet  to  open.  They  are  in  all  parts  of  Japan.  In 
India  they  are  as  far  south  as  Ceylon  and  as  far  north  as  the  Hima- 
layas. If  one  would  visit  every  mission  station  he  would  have  to 
visit  every  part  of  the  globe.  True,  the  fields  are  not  fully  occu- 
pied. Every  mission  is  terribly  undermanned.  Now,  as  of  old,  the 
harvest  is  plenteous,  and  the  laborers  are  few.  But  in  every  land 
and  in  most  of  the  large  centers  of  population  there  are  some  wit- 
nesses for  Christ.  It  may  be  a single  family  in  a great  province  or 
a solitary  man  or  woman  in  a great  city,  but  there  is  some  one  there 
preaching  the  Gospel  of  salvation. 

The  results  are  great,  even  greater  than  we  have  a right  to 
expect.  In  view  of  the  facts  that  the  fields  have  been  open  for 
so  short  a time,  that  the  churches  have  sent  out  such  a small  num- 
ber of  workers  and  afforded  them  such  a half-hearted  support,  and 
that  the  non-Christian  nations  are  proverbially  conceited  and  con- 
servative, the  marvel  is,  not  that  there  are  so  few  converts,  but  that 
there  are  so  many.  A century  ago  India  had  no  Christian  com- 
munity, now  the  adherents  number  600,000.  Fifty  years  ago  there 
were  six  Christians  in  all  China,  now  the  number  is  about  85,000. 
In  1872  the  first  church  was  organized  in  Japan;  now  the  communi- 
cants exceed  40,000,  and  the  churches  number  364.  Most  of  the 
converts  walk  worthily  of  that  holy  Name  by  which  they  have  been 
called.  Doubtless  some  are  in  the  churches  for  the  loaves  and 
fishes.  This  need  surprise  no  one.  Of  the  majority  it  can  be  said 
that  they  have  been  born  of  God  and  know  God. 

As  a class  the  missionaries  are  possessed  of  ability,  culture  and 
consecration.  The  same  men  and  women  at  home  would  fill  high 
positions  and  would  command  much  larger  salaries  than  they  now 
receive.  They  are  diligent  and  earnest.  If  any  lead  easy-going 
lives,  they  are  careful  to  conceal  the  fact.  The  tendency  is  to  work 
beyond  their  strength.  Heber  was  not  the  only  one  that  died  of 
overwork.  With  so  many  things  to  do  and  so  small  a staff,  they 
could  not  avoid  this  even  if  they  were  so  inclined.  They  live  much 
as  at  home.  One  sees  comfort,  but  no  luxury.  They  need  good 
food  and  comfortable  homes  and  suitable  clothing.  They  live  in  a 
hostile  climate.  The  demands  on  their  physical  nature  and  on  their 
sympathies  are  far  greater  than  at  home.  By  taking  proper  care  of 


SOME  IMPRESSIONS— CONCLUSION 


371 


themselves  they  live  longer  and  do  more  than  if  they  stinted  and 
starved  themselves.  It  is  claimed  by  some  that  missionaries  get 
closer  to  the  people  when  they  eat  the  same  food  and  dress  in  the 
same  way  and  live  in  their  houses.  It  may  be  that  some  Americans 
could  do  this  and  have  good  health  and  long  life,  but  it  is  plain  that 
most  could  not.  Missionaries  must  live  in  comfort  if  they  are  to  do 
their  best  work.  It  is  poor  economy  to  send  out  a man  and  starve 
him,  and  so  reduce  his  usefulness  one-half.  The  poorest  use  a 
Society  can  mak$  of  a man  is  to  allow  him  to  die,  when  with  a good 
home  and  wholesome  food  he  might  be  in  his  glorious  prime.  If  a 
living  dog  is  better  than  a dead  lion,  much  more  is  a living  mis- 
sionary better  than  a dead  one. 

One  missionary  said  to  me,  “We  live  very  much  as  we  do  at 
home;  our  trials  do  not  pertain  to  food  and  clothing.”  They  are 
of  another  sort.  What  are  some  of  these?  They  are  exiles,  and  so 
are  deprived  of  the  sunshine  and  strength  they  would  find  in  the 
companionship  of  kindred  spirits.  I attended  a farewell  reception 
in  Peking.  The  veteran  in  whose  honor  it  was  given  said  that  it  was 
a thousand  days  since  his  wife  and  daughter  left  for  America.  Iso- 
lation depresses  the  soul.  Speaking  to  one  man  about  the  beauty 
of  his  surroundings  he  said:  “ There  is  no  salubrity  of  climate,  or 
beauty  of  scenery,  or  historical  associations  that  can  compensate  in 
any  degree  for  the  loss  of  the  intellectual  and  social  and  religious 
privileges  one  enjoys  at  home.”  He  and  others  are  where  they  are 
because  God  needs  them  there.  The  people  are  degraded.  Lying 
and  pilfering  are  almost  universal.  Cruelty  abounds.  Our  workers 
found  a living  child  in  a coffin.  Men  die  on  the  streets,  and  no  one 
lays  it  to  heart.  China  is  unmistakably  filthy.  Stenches  are  omni- 
present. Before  you  are  out  of  one  you  are  into  two  more.  One 
sees  beggars  and  lepers  everywhere.  Thousands  are  brutalized  so 
that  the  Gospel  makes  no  impression  upon  them.  The  woi'k  is 
opposed  by  the  priests,  and  the  converts  are  persecuted.  The  per- 
plexities and  annoyances  are  a thousandfold  greater  there  than  here. 
These  all  tell  on  the  nerves  and  on  the  spirits.  After  a hard  day’s 
work  it  is  right  that  the  worker  should  have  a comfortable  chair 
and  bed.  Cut  off  as  he  is  from  friends  at  home,  he  should  have  the 
best  books  and  periodicals.  As  a representative  of  Christendom,  it 
is  right  that  he  should  have  a pleasant  home.  This  is  an  object 
lesson  to  the  natives.  They  see  that  the  Gospel  gives  those  who 
receive  it  something  better  than  a mud  hut  paved  with  dirt  and 
frescoed  with  cow  dung. 

On  the  way  out  and  in  the  hotels  and  in  newspapers  and  maga- 


372 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


zincs  one  can  hear  or  read  of  the  failure  of  missions;  that  there  are 
no  genuine  converts;  and  that  the  missionaries  live  in  ease  and 
affluence  and  accomplish  nothing.  Travelers  visit  the  clubs  and 
take  up  the  gossip  current  in  these  places.  If  they  were  to  visit  the 
missions  and  see  the  work  that  is  being  done  and  know  the  spirit 
and  service  of  the  workers,  they  would  tell  a very  different  tale. 
The  men  that  compose  the  clubs,  for  the  most  part,  are  men  of 
unclean  lives.  The  Gospel  condemns  them,  and  they  resent  its 
condemnation  and  revile  its  advocates.  Men  live  in  Shanghai  and 
Tokio  and  Calcutta  all  their  lives  and  know  nothing  at  all  about 
what  the  Lord  is  doing  through  his  servants  in  these  cities.  The 
truth  is,  the  lives  of  these  men  constitute  the  most  serious  obstacle 
to  the  spread  and  triumph  of  the  Gospel.  They  drink,  they  curse, 
they  have  wives  on  the  European  plan,  they  abuse  the  natives  and 
treat  them  like  dogs,  that  they  may  know  their  place.  A steamboat 
was  going  up  the  Yangtsze.  A junk  loaded  with  brick  was  crossing 
the  river,  and  came  in  front  of  the  steamboat.  The  pilot  said  to  the 
captain,  “ Shall  we  turn  aside?”  He  said,  “No.”  The  junk  was 
cut  in  twain,  and  all  on  board  perished.  No  effort  was  made  to 
save  the  crew.  Opium  was  forced  on  the  Chinese.  When  the 
Emperor  protested,  he  was  urged  to  tax  it  and  make  it  a source  of 
revenue.  He  said  he  would  not  use  as  a means  of  revenue  that 
which  brought  suffering  and  misery  upon  his  people.  There  are 
notable  exceptions.  I met  a missionary  in  Singapore:  he  left  the 
Royal  Engineers  to  engage  in  the  work.  I met  another  who  had 
been  a surgeon  in  the  Army.  Some  of  the  most  devout  men  in  the 
East  belong  to  the  Military  or  Civil  Service.  The  opposition  of  the 
others  is  complimentary  to  the  missionaries.  Whatever  may  be  said 
to  the  contrary,  the  Gospel  is  making  progress.  There  are  converts, 
and  many  of  them  are  of  a high  standard.  It  should  be  borne  in 
mind  that  spiritual  results,  like  spiritual  truths,  are  spiritually  dis- 
cerned. To  the  natural  man  they  are  foolishness,  and  he  cannot 
know  them.  The  missionaries  are  living  lives  of  usefulness  and 
nobleness  and  self-sacrifice.  They  represent  the  hei'oic  element  in 
modern  Christianity.  Praise  God,  from  whom  all  blessings  flow, 
for  their  lives  and  labors!  One  could  sail  over  the  earth  in  a bal- 
loon and  tell  at  once  whether  he  was  over  a Christian  or  a non- 
Christian  land  by  the  sights  and  sounds  and  smells.  He  could  tell 
in  the  same  way  whether  he  was  over  a Protestant  or  a Roman  Cath- 
olic country.  And  one  could  go  through  China  or  India  or  Japan 
and  pick  out  the  Christians  by  their  bright  and  joyous  faces. 

The  evangelization  of  the  world  is  a tremendous  enterprise.  It 


SOME  IMPRESSIONS— CONCLUSION 


373 


is  the  most  colossal  task  ever  undertaken  by  men.  More  workers 
should  be  sent  out  and  thoroughly  furnished  for  the  work.  All  the 
energies  of  the  church  should  be  devoted  to  it.  Hundreds  should 
go  at  their  own  charges.  Nearly  one-half  the  workers  connected 
with  the  China  Inland  Mission  are  self-supporting.  Some  should 
undertake  to  support  one  or  more  workers.  The  task  is  great,  but 
not  impossible.  God  has  sworn  by  himself  that  the  whole  earth 
shall  be  filled  with  his  glory.  Every  plant  which  he  has  not  planted 
shall  be  rooted  up.  All  the  signs  of  the  times  point  to  the  fulfill- 
ment of  these  promises.  The  Gospel  is  running  and  being  glorified. 
People  are  forsaking  dumb  idols  and  evil  practices  and  are  serving 
the  living  God  and  are  walking  in  his  ways.  Temples  and  shrines 
and  altars  are  being  deserted.  The  number  of  the  saved  is  being 
increased  daily.  Those  that  have  been  longest  on  the  field  and 
know  most  of  the  power  and  methods  of  the  foroes  arrayed  against 
the  faith  of  Christ,  are  most  confident  of  the  final  victory.  All  that 
they  have  seen  strengthens  their  confidence.  They  have  no  thought 
of  leaving  the  field.  They  praise  God  that  to  them  was  this  grace 
given,  that  they  are  permitted  to  preach  among  the  nations  the 
unsearchable  riches  of  Christ.  The  non-Christian  faiths  feel  that 
they  are  doomed.  On  every  field  they  are  making  a last  desperate 
stand.  The  effort  is  in  vain;  the  Gospel  will  triumph  and  fill  the 
earth  as  the  waters  fill  the  sea. 

Missions  are  drawing  Christian  people  closer  together.  In 
Shanghai,  Nankin,  Peking  and  Tientsin  the  workers  have  union 
services  every  Aveek.  They  feel  the  need  of  combining  that  they 
may  present  a solid  front  to  the  foe.  They  are  closer  to  one  another 
than  at  home,  for  their  preaching  is  more  scriptural  and  more  sim- 
ple. Baptism  is  seen  in  its  true  relations  on  the  mission  field. 
People  may  believe  anything  and  do  anything,  provided  they  are 
not  baptized.  That  one  act  severs  every  tie  that  binds  one  to  the 
old  faith.  It  was  so  in  the  early  church. 

One  rejoices  to  see  that  the  English  language  is  so  widely  spread. 
In  Japan  English  is  taught  in  the  public  schools.  The  youth  of 
China  and  India  are  anxious  to  speak  and  read  English.  This  is  a 
hopeful  sign.  The  English  language  is  full  of  great  ideas  respect- 
ing the  Avorth  of  man  as  man,  the  dignity  of  woman,  the  sanctity  of 
marriage,  of  liberty  and  progress.  Wherever  the  English  language 
goes  these  ideas  go  and  bear  fruit.  One  rejoices,  too,  to  find  the 
English  power  so  widespread.  This  is  no  accident.  Why  is  it  that 
Portugal,  or  Spain,  or  France,  or  Holland,  is  not  the  world-power? 
Because  English  civilization  is  of  a higher  type,  and  because  it  is 


374 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


God’s  purpose  that  the  fittest  should  survive.  These  other  nations 
were  in  the  field  first,  but  they  were  all  driven  out.  Wherever 
England  goes  there  the  Bible  goes.  There,  too,  you  find  roads  and 
bridges  and  free  schools  and  just  laws  and  equal  advantages  for  all. 
There  you  find  peace  and  prosperity. 

The  Gospel  gives  woman  her  rightful  place  in  society.  Heathen- 
ism degrades  her  with  an  infinite  degradation.  This  is  character- 
istic of  all  the  non-Christian  faiths.  In  all  pagan  and  Moslem  lands 
polygamy  and  concubinage  obtain.  In  India  a woman  is  taught 
that  her  husband,  however  worthless,  must  be  worshiped  as  a god. 
Her  chief  business  is  to  minister  to  his  comfort.  The  Japanese 
think  ignorant  woman  more  easily  managed.  A Chinese  poet  ex- 
pressed the  feeling  of  the  nation — 

“The  serpent’s  mouth  in  the  green  bamboo, 

The  yellow  hornet’s  caudal  dart, 

Little  the  injury  they  can  do  ; 

More  venomous  far  is  a woman’s  heart.” 

One  thinks  more  of  America  after  seeing  other  nations.  A 
friend  said,  “If  you  would  foster  your  patriotism,  make  a trip 
abroad.”  The  average  American  is  better  fed  and  clothed  and 
housed  and  taught  than  the  average  man  of  any  other  nation.  I 
am  persuaded  that  the  typical  American  is  a broader  and  a better 
man  than  the  typical  man  of  any  other  country.  This  is  Immanuel’s 
land  in  a very  peculiar  sense.  Let  it  not  be  forgotten  that  where 
much  has  been  given,  there  much  shall  be  required.  On  a foreign 
tour  one  sees  America  from  the  standpoint  of  foreigners.  This 
keeps  him  from  being  exalted  above  measure.  One  Orieutal  spent 
some  years  within  our  borders  and  wrote  his  experience.  His  idea 
of  Christian  America  was  lofty,  religious,  and  Puritanic.  He 
dreamed  of  its  templed  hills,  and  rocks  that  rang  with  hymns  and 
praises.  Hebraisms,  he  thought,  to  be  the  prevailing  speech  of  the 
people,  and  cherub  and  cherubim,  hallelujahs  and  amens,  the  com- 
mon language  of  the  streets.  He  heard  some  Hebraisms,  but  they 
were  more  suggestive  of  the  imprecatory  Psalms  than  of  the  Beati- 
tudes. His  pocket  was  picked  and  his  umbrella  stoleu.  He  saw 
burglar-proof  safes  and  cemented  cellars,  stone-cut  vaults,  watched 
by  bulldogs  and  battalions  of  police.  Every  housewife  had  a bun- 
dle of  keys  at  her  girdle.  At  home  the  houses  are  open;  things 
dropped  in  the  street  are  safe.  He  thought  Christendom  a beastly 
land!  We  have  the  worst  and  the  best.  Christendom  alone  pro- 
duces such  people  as  John  Howard,  Lord  Shaftesbury,  Abraham 
Lincoln,  Chinese  Gordon,  David  Livingstone,  Florence  Nightingale, 


SOME  IMPRESSIOXS — CONCL  VSION 


375 


Grace  Darling,  Frances  E.  Willard,  and  Clara  Barton.  Christen- 
dom needs  to  be  Christianized. 

One  word  of  testimony  I must  bear.  On  board  ship  and  in 
hotels  men  urged  me  not  to  drink  water,  but  to  drink  champagne, 
wine,  beer,  or  brandy  and  soda.  I did  not  like  to  abandon  my  prin- 
ciples and  determined  I would  not.  I drank  water  everywhere,  and 
refused  to  taste  brandy  and  soda,  beer,  wine,  or  champagne,  and 
came  home  in  perfect  health.  Water  is  the  most  wholesome  of 
beverages.  The  idea  that  in  Europe  or  Asia  and  Africa  we  must 
drink  some  alcoholic  beverage  is  a delusion  and  a snare.  One 
Scotchman  said  to  another : “Whiskey  is  a bad  thing.”  His  friend 
cautiously  replied:  “Yes,  bad  whiskey  is.”  It’s  all  bad,  and  always 
bad. 

It  would  be  a good  thing  if  some  representatives  were  sent  out 
every  two  or  three  years.  They  would  do  the  workers  good.  They 
would  cheer  and  bless  the  native  helpers  and  converts.  They  would 
widen  their  own  vision  and  stimulate  the  work  at  home.  Many  are 
able  to  go  at  their  own  charges.  Yokohama  is  only  two  weeks  from 
San  Francisco.  Bombay  is  only  four  weeks  from  New  York.  In  a 
month  or  two  one  could  visit  all  the  stations.  This  would  not  cost 
any  more  than  a summer  in  Europe,  if  so  much.  Europe  is  modern. 
One  can  see  as  good  cities  at  home  as  there.  In  Asia  one  sees 
different  races,  religions,  civilizations.  He  is  in  a different  world. 
J.  W.  Foster  says:  “ I advise  a larger  visitation  of  the  missions  and 
closer  personal  supervision.  There  should  be  one  Secretary  on  the 
field  every  year.”  Dr.  Blodgett,  a veteran  missionary,  indorses  this 
view. 

I was  sent  out  partly  to  rest  and  partly  to  see  the  work.  I saw 
the  work;  I trust  I shall  get  the  rest  in  the  sweet  by  and  by.  Sev- 
eral men  talked  of  going  with  me,  but  all  decided  to  remain  at 
home.  The  decision  was  a wise  one  for  themselves.  Seeing  mis- 
sions is  exhaustive  work.  Editing  a paper,  managing  a loan  agency, 
conducting  a large  medical  practice,  presiding  over  a college : all 
these  are  a picnic  in  comparison.  If  the  men  who  talked  of  going 
had  gone  the  visit  would  have  been  immeasurably  more  dignified 
and  impressive.  The  people  would  have  come  out  and  worshiped 
us.  They  would  have  said:  “The  gods  are  come  down  in  the  like- 
ness of  men.”  But  when  they  saw  one  foreign  devil  wearing  a 
Chinese  petticoat  they  smiled  and  went  back  to  their  business. 

To  those  who  made  this  trip  possible  and  actual,  and  followed 
me  all  the  way,  I extend  my  heartfelt  thanks.  First  and  foremost 
among  these  is  my  associate,  F.  M.  Rains.  In  my  absence  he  did 


37C 


A CIRCUIT  OF  THE  GLOBE 


double  duty.  The  clerks  in  the  office  caught  his  spirit  and  went 
without  their  vacation  that  the  work  might  not  suffer.  He  and  they 
had  the  supreme  joy  of  being  able  to  report  a year  of  unprecedented 
prosperity.  Above  all  are  thanks  and  praise  due  to  Him  who  put  it 
into  their  hearts  and  power  to  do  this,  and  who  watched  over  me 
every  step  of  the  way  and  brought  me  back  in  peace  and  safety. 
“Blessed  be  the  Lord  God,  the  God  of  Israel,  who  only  doeth 
wondrous  things.  And  blessed  be  his  glorious  name  for  ever:  and 
let  the  whole  earth  be  filled  with  his  glory.” 


INDEX, 


_Aj>bott,  Pastor,  286. 

Adams,  Dr.,  150. 

Adams,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  M.  D.,  217. 
Adelaide,  266. 

Aden,  295. 

Adriatic,  the,  351. 
iEgean,  the,  349. 

Agora,  the,  349. 

Agra,  238. 

Agra  College,  240. 

Akbar,  204,  238. 

Akita,  69,  90,  91. 

Albatross,  the,  264. 

Albrecht,  Prof.,  115. 

Alexandria,  301,  304,  305, 

Allen,  Dr.  Y.  J.,  161. 

All  men  brothers,  369. 

America,  17. 

America,  evils  in,  374. 

America:  a new  world,  367. 

America,  talk  on,  294. 

American  Bible  Society,  23. 

Amei’iean  Christian  Missionary  Society,  10. 
American  Mission,  309. 

American  Board  in  Turkey,  339. 

American  Catholic  College,  353. 

American  preachers  in  Australia,  286. 
Americans,  the,  319. 

Americans  discounted,  248. 

Amoy,  162. 

Ancestor  worship,  190 
Anecdote  of  Dr.  Beebe,  142. 
Anglo-Chinese  College,  128. 

Anskar,  359. 

Antioch,  329. 

Archibald,  John,  151. 

Arcot  Mission,  the,  249. 

Archipelago,  the,  195. 

Armenians,  merchants  and  bankers,  345; 
living  in  dread,  338;  decimated,  346;  in 
exile,  337 ; outrages,  338,  339 ; Sultan 
responsible,  346. 

Arnold,  T.  J.,  172,  176. 

Ashmore,  Dr.,  119. 

Asia  Minor  desolated,  344. 

Athens,  349. 

Athens,  modem,  350. 

Australians  in  America,  287 ; Australian 
churches,  288;  members  all  pay,  288; 
trains,  285. 

Azbill,  W.  K.,  67,  76,  93,  94. 


EJaby  Guy,  63,  64. 

Backsheesh,  324. 

Bad  government,  147. 

Ballarat,  284. 

Baptisms  in  Shanghai,  127. 

Baptist  work  among  Telugus,  252. 

Barclay,  Dr.,  120,  316. 

Bardezag,  334. 

Bardsley,  John,  271. 

Bates,  T.  H,  364. 

Bathing  in  Ganges,  230. 

Bay  of  Tokyo,  50. 

Bedouins,  301. 

Beebe,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  141,  152. 

Beirut,  309. 

Believers  in  Peking,  157. 

Benares,  228. 

Ben-Oliel,  Mr.,  317. 

Bernard  sisters,  244. 

“Beside  the  Bonnie  Brier  Bush,”  47. 
Bentley,  W.  P.,  127,  132,  176,  320. 
Bethany,  320. 

Bethlehem,  322. 

Bible,  the,  47 ; among  soldiers  and  sailors, 
121 ; best  of  missionaries,  216 ; classes, 
86;  distribution,  87;  houses,  113;  in 
Japan,  96,  113;  Readers’  Union,  113; 
societies,  121. 

Bilaspur,  217. 

Bina,  222. 

Bingham,  Hiram,  31,  39. 

Birkenhead,  365. 

Bishop,  Mrs.,  121. 

Bitter  Lakes,  298. 

Black,  H.  M.,  366. 

Bliss,  Dr.,  320. 

Black  Hole,  the,  208. 

Boating  population.  164. 

Boardman,  Mrs.,  198. 

Bombay,  241. 

Boone,  Dr.,  129. 

Booth,  General,  294. 

Borneo,  41. 

Boston  and  San  Francisco,  14. 

Botany  Bay,  271. 

Boyd,  Miss,  217. 

Breakfast  in  Melbourne,  270 
Brearley,  Eli,  365. 

Brigands,  340. 

Brindisi,  351. 

British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society,  308. 


378  INDEX 


British  rule,  193,  239. 

Brooks,  Dr.,  361. 

Buddha,  the,  66,  112,  228. 

Buddhism,  89. 

Buddhism  in  China,  166. 

Buddhist  orphanage,  a,  114. 

Buildings  in  Bilaspur,  219. 

Buildings  in  Paris,  360. 

Burmese,  197. 

Butchart,  Dr.,  112,  131,  172,  174. 

Bungalows,  259. 

Burford,  Mr.,  267,  268. 

Burgess,  Miss,  223. 

Burning  the  dead,  230. 

Cairo,  300. 

Calcutta,  200,  207. 

Cambridge  Brotherhood,  237. 

Canton,  163. 

Carey,  William,  208,  214,  215. 

Carrie  Loos  Williams’  Memorial,  173. 

Cashmere  Gate,  237. 

Caste,  260. 

Caste  in  England,  366. 

Catholics  in  South  Seas,  38. 

Cawnpore,  232. 

Ceylon,  41,  262;  British  in,  263;  Dutch 
and  Portuguese.  262,  263;  missions  in, 
263. 

Chalmers,  Dr.,  163. 

Chandler,  Mr.,  247. 

Charity  schools,  79,  85. 

Cheltenham,  280. 

Chester,  366. 

Chewing  gum,  269. 

Chicago,  14. 

Children,  292. 

Children,  desire  for,  219. 

China,  186;  age  of,  187;  Chinese,  19; 
age  revered,  182;  begging,  182;  bind- 
ing feel,  179;  books  in,  184;  Buddhism 
in,  190;  Catholics,  165;  climate  of,  151; 
conceit,  169 ; conservatism,  191 ; Chris- 
tianity making  progress,  171;  Confu- 
cianism, 166;  converts,  169;  converts 
lose,  170;  dirt,  183;  disputes  among 
Catholics,  167 ; dress  hair  peculiarly, 
179;  dress,  180;  economical,  189;  given 
to  lying,  191 ; fertilizers,  186 ; finger- 
nails, 179,  180;  government,  187;  hos- 
pitals in  China,  170;  ignorance  of  peo- 
ple, 139,  192;  China  Inland  Mission, 
124;  intellect  located  in  stomach,  183; 
Jesuits  in,  165;  Chinese  know  all  things, 
184;  lay  up  merits,  181;  literature  pure, 
191;  make  no  progress,  192;  maps,  139; 
moves,  148;  no  national  postal  system, 
192 ; opposed  to  missions,  169 ; polygamy, 
191;  poor,  134;  prefer  one  another,  182 ; 
prize  learning,  187 ; products,  186;  peo- 
ple proud,  185;  regard  printed  paper, 
180;  religious,  189 ; rivers  in,  186;  peo- 
ple starve,  192;  suicide  in,  181;  Chi- 


nese a superior  race,  189 ; superstitions, 
189;  Taoism  in,  183;  women  in,  171; 
wronged,  171. 

Chinese  learning,  188. 

Chinese  mission  school,  277. 

Cholera,  60. 

Christ  as  a pig,  151, 

Christian  College,  245. 

Christian  Commonwealth,  362. 

Christian- Evangelist,  11. 

Christian  Standard,  10. 

Christianity  in  Japan,  61,  96. 

Chu  Cheo,  143,  145,  173. 

Church  Missionary  Society,  316. 

Church,  first  in  Japan,  97. 

Churches  of  Christ,  100. 

Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  315,  323. 
Churches  in  Norway,  356. 

Churches  in  South  Australia,  269. 
Cincinnati,  9,  367. 

City  of  Peking,  12,  17,  18. 

Clay,  B.  F.,  12. 

Cleveland,  Captain,  30. 

Clive,  205. 

Clough,  Dr.,  253. 

Coan,  Titus,  25,  26. 

Coleridge,  quoted,  264. 

Coliseum,  352. 

Collingwood,  281. 

Cologne,  359. 

Competitive  Examinations,  187,  188. 
Conference  in  Hurda,  226. 

Conference  in  Melbourne,  289. 

Conference  in  Nankin,  152. 

Conference  Sermon,  278. 

Conference  in  Sydney,  272. 

Confucius,  84,  147  154,  189. 

Confucianism,  89. 

Congregation  of  the  Propagation  of  the 
Faith,  353. 

Constantinople,  342 ; has  a great  history, 
342,  343;  improvements  forbidden,  346; 
sacked,  1543 ; taken  by  the  Turks,  344. 
Consular  Courts,  63. 

Cook,  Captain,  30. 

Coop,  Messrs.,  365. 

Copenhagen,  354. 

Copts,  the,  300. 

Corinth,  351. 

Course  of  Study  in  Girls’  Home,  76. 
Cow-protector,  226. 

Cow  temple,  229. 

Curious  things  in  China,  179. 

Curious  things  in  Japan,  107. 

Cyprus,  329. 

Damoh,  220. 

Dana,  R.  H.,  28. 

Danes,  the,  213,  357. 

Dardanelles,  the,  331. 

Davies,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  270,  283. 

Dawson,  Sir  William,  307. 

Dead  Sea,  the,  321. 


INDEX 


379 


Death  at  Sea,  296. 

Delhi,  236 ; and  the  mutiny,  237 ; taken, 
237. 

Delta,  the,  302. 

Denver,  11,  12. 

Departments  of  work  in  India,  217. 
Dialects  in  China,  127. 

Disciples  of  Christ  in  Australasia,  290 ; in 
India,  217 ; in  Japan,  90;  in  New  South 
Wales,  273. 

Discouragements  in  Turkey,  337. 
Doncaster,  280. 

Doshisha,  the,  115,  116,  117. 

Drinking  away  from  home,  375. 

Drinking  on  board  ship,  45. 

Duff,  Dr.,  208. 

Dunn,  H.  G.,  277. 

Durand,  Dr.,  225. 

Durban,  W.,  362. 

Dutch  Missionary  Societies,  196. 

Dyer,  Mr.,  241. 

!Ear  Monument,  the,  115. 

East  India  Company,  205. 

Edkins,  Dr.,  126. 

Egypt,  306,  307. 

Egypt,  population  of,  306,  307. 

Emperor  of  China  favorable  to  the  Gospel, 
106. 

Empress  of  China,  119. 

Empress  of  Japan,  162. 

England,  361 ; the  great  missionary  nation, 
361 ; English  in  Japan,  97 ; English 
roads,  163 ; language  widespread,  373. 
Ephesus,  344. 

Errett,  Isaac,  10. 

Eschol,  25. 

Eta,  72. 

"Evangelist,”  not  "pastor,”  288. 
Evangelization  of  the  world  a great  un- 
dertaking, 373. 

Eurasians,  199. 

Ewers,  D.  A.,  265,  275,  280. 

Exodus,  the,  298. 

F' aber,  49. 

Faber,  Dr.  E.,  125. 

"Failure  of  Missions,”  372. 

Fair  Sex,  the,  310. 

Famine,  222. 

Farewell,  285. 

Faris,  E.  E.,  10. 

Farrar,  Miss,  227. 

Ferguson,  Mr.,  153. 

Ferntree  Gully,  281. 

Fishing  with  cormorants,  134. 

Fiji,  40. 

Filth  in  Nankin,  137. 

Forbidden  City,  the,  157. 

Foochow,  162. 

Food  of  Chinese,  20. 

Food  on  ship,  20. 

Foreign  concessions,  63. 

Foreign  devils,  134. 


Foreign  Missions  in  Melbourne,  277. 
Formosa,  41,  120,  163. 

Forscutt,  C.  F.,  271. 

Fort,  the,  236. 

Foulk,  Lieut.,  117. 

Franklin,  Miss  Josepha,  221. 

Franklin,  Miss  Stella,  222. 
Frederickshald,  356. 

French  in  India,  205. 

Friendly  Islands,  41. 

Frost,  Miss,  227. 

Fujiyama,  113. 

Fulham,  362. 

Fumigating  passengers,  310. 

Gambling,  19,  134. 

Ganesh,  229. 

Garvin,  T.  D.,  29,  36. 

Garst,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  74,  90,  112. 

Germans  in  the  East,  77,  193. 

Gethsemane,  320. 

Gibson,  T.  R.,  312,  331. 

Gilbert  Islands,  26,  39. 

Giol  Dagh,  333. 

Girls’  Home,  75. 

Girls’  School,  118. 

Gloucester,  364. 

Gobat,  Bishop,  316. 

God  of  War,  112. 

Goddess  of  Mercy,  66,  112. 

Gold  in  Victoria,  284. 

Golden  Gate,  12,  13. 

Golden  Temple,  229. 

Golden  Horn,  342. 

Gole,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  273. 

Golgotha,  320. 

Gordon’s  Calvary,  317. 

Gordon,  Dr.,  87,  117. 

Gordon,  E.  M.,  217,  220. 

Gore,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  265,  266,  267,  286. 
Goshen,  299. 

Gospel,  the,  and  progress,  162. 

Gospel,  the,  taking  hold  of  the  nations, 
369. 

Gospel,  the,  in  India,  216. 

Gospel  Village,  the,  154. 

Gossner  Mission,  the,  249. 

Gothenburg,  356. 

Gow,  L.  H.,  363. 

Graves,  Dr.,  164. 

Graves  everywhere  in  China,  131. 
Graybiel,  Miss,  217,  227. 

Great  Australian  Bight,  295. 

Great  Mosque,  236. 

Great  Wall,  158. 

Greece,  349,  350. 

Greek  Church,  99. 

Green,  Dr.,  77,  111. 

Green,  M.  W.,  265. 

Griffis,  Dr.,  86. 

Grote  St.  Church,  266. 

Gulick  family,  the,  118. 

Guy,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  50,  56,  63,  93. 


380 


INDEX 


Hamburg,  359. 

Hanchow,  162. 

Hankow,  148. 

Hanlin  Academy,  157. 

Hanobuehi,  67. 

Hardy,  Alpheus,  116. 

Harrison,  Miss,  91. 

Havelock,  233,  234. 

Hawaii:  Bibles  in  Museum,  34;  Bishop 
Museum,  32;  building  a house,  32;  com- 
merce of,  35 ; Constitution  of,  34 ; Evan- 
gelical Association,  36;  evangelization 
of,  23;  Ex-Queen,  34;  flowers,  43; 
Japanese  in,  43;  Jubilee  motto,  32; 
lepers,  35;  legislature,  34;  missiona- 
ries, 30,  31;  people  dying  out,  27,  35; 
population  of,  35;  President  Dole,  34; 
triumphs  of  the  Gospel,  26,  28 ; vice  in, 
27. 

Hawk,  Jeu,  18. 

Hearnden,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  144,  172. 

Heber,  209,  246. 

Hebron,  321. 

Hepburn,  Dr.,  97. 

Hideyoshi,  102. 

Hill,  David,  149. 

Hilo,  25,  26. 

Himalaya,  the,  263. 

Himalayas,  the  201. 

Hindmarsh,  267. 

Hippodrome,  347. 

Hoick,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  354,  357. 

Hong  Kong,  41,  163. 

Honjo,  69,  92. 

Honolulu,  12,  22;  cosmopolitan,  36;  Dis- 
ciples of  Christ  in,  36 ; in  1820  and  1896, 
37. 

Hoogly,  the,  207. 

Hopper,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  37,  43. 

Hornsey,  362. 

Horses  and  oxen  in  Japan,  51. 

Hospital,  the  Memorial,  138. 

Hospital  in  Hong  Kong,  163. 

Hospital  in  Singapore,  195. 

Hostetter,  Miss,  79,  94. 

Hunt,  John,  40. 

Hunt,  Mabel,  146. 

Hunt,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  138,  144,  172,  175, 
177. 

Humavun,  204,  237. 

Hurda,  217,  224. 

Hyacinth,  the,  36. 

Hykes,  Dr.,  127. 

Idols,  72. 

Idolatry  overthrown,  24. 

Imperial  Museum,  79. 

India,  201;  and  Christianity,  212;  and 
commerce,  204 ; extent  of,  201 ; is  poor, 
259 ; outline  of,  201 ; aborigines  of,  202  ; 
Alexander  in,  203 ; Aryans  in,  202 ; 
British  India  Proper,  205;  buildings, 


255;  Catholics  in,  212;  children  wear 
little  clothing,  255;  drinking  in,  211; 
Feudatory  States,  205 ; hours  of  eating, 
258 ; idols  in,  258 ; languages,  202 ; Max 
Muller  on,  206;  mechanics  sit,  256; 
Methodist  Missions  in,  250 ; Mohamme- 
dans in,  203;  Nestorians  in,  212;  Pan- 
taenus  in,  212;  people  delight  in  jewels, 
256 ; people  dark  in  skin,  255 ; prize  of 
the  East,  203;  roads  are  good,  259; 
servants,  257 ; tools,  256 ; washing,  257 ; 
women,  259,  260;  work  on  buildings, 
257. 

Industrial  Missions,  80. 

Infant  baptism,  354. 

Ingle,  Mr.,  149. 

Inland  Sea,  122. 

Innai,  68. 

Ion  Keith-Falconer,  295,  296. 

Islands  of  the  Sea,  38. 

Ismailia,  298. 

Isthmus  of  Suez,  298. 

Iwamoto,  Pres.,  76. 


Jackson,  Mrs.,  225. 

Jaffa,  308,  312. 

Japan,  52;  audiences,  58;  baby  car- 
riages, 110;  bath,  65;  beds,  65;  black 
teeth,  59;  books,  110;  bowing,  109; 
bright  faces,  59;  chopsticks,  64,  65; 
Christianity  banned,  96;  Chui'ch  of 
Christ,  100;  clogs,  109;  destined  to  be- 
come Christian,  62;  dress,  108;  Dutch 
in,  105;  earthquakes,  78;  Embassies  to 
America,  98 ; first  convert,  80 ; food,  64 ; 
Fox-god,  170;  government,  53;  horses, 
107;  hotels,  64;  houses,  65,  71,  107; 
Imperial  University,  77 ; jinrickshas, 
67 ; labor-saving  machines,  107 ; live  in 
villages,  71;  money,  71;  not  yet  Chris- 
tian, 61;  opened,  54,  96;  people,  52; 
persecution,  103,  104;  police,  108; 

progress,  77 ; progress  of  Gospel,  71,  99, 
106;  Catholics  in,  99;  shoes  removed, 
110;  sitting  posture,  107;  smoking,  64; 
Sunday  in,  56;  tea-drinking,  64;  a 
Western  nation,  111 ; women  grow  old 
young,  59;  Y.  M.  C.  A.  in,  81. 

Java,  41. 

Jericho,  321. 

Jerusalem,  315,  321. 

Jesuits,  102,  158. 

Jewett,  Dr.,  252. 

Jewish  opposition  to  the  Gospel,  318. 

Jinricksha,  51. 

John,  Dr.,  148,  149. 

Johnson,  John,  304,  305. 

Johnson,  Miss  Kate,  91. 

John  of  Mount  Corvin,  167. 

Judson,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  197. 

Judson,  Miss  Hattie  L.,  225. 


INDEX 


381 


Kiaiserwerth  Deaconesses,  311,  317. 
Kali,  207,  228. 

Kamakura,  112. 

Kamehameha,  33. 

Kanakas,  277. 

Kedron,  320. 

Kerr,  Dr.,  120,  164. 

Kevorkian,  Dr.,  336,  340. 

Kiernander,  208. 

Kindness  to  missionaries,  130. 
Kingsbury,  Dr.,  271,  273. 

Kingsbury,  Miss,  218. 

King’s  Daughters,  99. 

Kinsey,  Miss,  223. 

Kissing,  325. 

Kobe,  112,  118. 

Kodak  feared,  147. 

Korea,  115. 

Kozaki,  Pres.,  99,  117. 

Kublai  Khan,  167. 

Kutub-Minar,  236. 

Kyoto,  98,  114. 


Large  ingatherings,  249. 
Lawrence,  Sir  Henry,  234. 
Lawrence,  Lord,  216. 

Life  on  a ship,  48. 

Lohr,  Mrs.,  218. 

Lone  Star  Mission,  252. 
Loomis,  Mr.,  90,  121. 
Lord’s  Supper,  289,  290. 
Louvre,  the,  360. 

Love,  the,  131. 

Losing  a day,  45. 

Lowry,  Dr.,  155. 

Lucknow,  233. 

Ludbrook,  Dr.,  282. 

Lu  Hoh,  143,  146. 

Luke,  40. 

Lyon,  D.  W.,  120. 

Lyon,  Miss,  141,  176. 


!Maeao,  163. 

Macklin,  Dr.  W.  E.,  91,  137,  144,  172. 
Madagascar,  41. 

Madden,  Col.,  330. 

Madras,  245. 

Madura,  247,  251. 

Magarey,  A.  T.,  268. 

Magarey,  Dr.  S.  J.,  268. 

Magarey,  Thomas,  268. 

Mahoba,  227. 

Main,  Dr.,  120,  162. 

Mandarins,  160,  161,  192. 

Mangan,  Miss,  313. 

Mansell,  Pres.,  234. 

Marathon,  350. 

Martyn,  Henry,  214. 

Mars’  Hill,  349. 

Maston,  A.  B.,  281. 

McAll,  Dr.,  83,  360. 


McCaleb,  J.  M.,  75,  93. 

McClean,  F.,  280. 

McDonald,  Mr.,  209, 

McGavrau,  Mi’,  and  Mrs.,  221. 

McGregor,  Dr.,  120. 

McKenzie,  Dr.,  159. 

Medical  School  in  Agra,  239. 

Medical  Missions  in  India,  215. 

Medical  work  in  Nankin,  173. 

Medical  work  conciliates,  138. 
Mediterranean,  the,  308. 

Meigs,  Pres.,  139,  172,  177. 
Meiji-Jo-Gakko,  94. 

Melbourne,  270,  283. 

Memorials  in  Cawnpore,  233. 

Memorial  chapel,  69. 

Memorial  hospital,  173. 

Mesopotamia,  345. 

Methodists  in  Italy,  352. 

Middle  Kingdom,  the,  161. 

Mikado,  the,  53,  115. 

Mikkelsen,  O.  C.,  354. 

Miller,  Drs.,  218. 

Miller,  Miss  Alice,  67,  76,  94. 

Miller,  Principal,  245. 

Ming  Tombs,  159. 

Ministry,  an  educated,  274,  291. 

Mission  Press,  235,  311. 

Missionary  Conference,  78,  79;  mission- 
ary methods,  83. 

Missionaries:  character  of,  122,  178,  370; 
cursed,  311;  in  China,  169;  joyous,  19; 
on  all  ships,  17;  trials  of,  371;  way 
they  live,  377. 

Missionary  Eevieiv,  175. 

Missions  drawing  people  together,  373. 
Missions  in  America,  13. 

Missions  in  Benares,  231. 

Missions  in  Palestine  difficult,  318. 
Mississippi,  the,  13. 

Mitchell,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  222,  223. 
Mohammedan  University,  304. 

Mahmud  of  Ghazni,  203. 

Moghuls,  the,  204,  239. 

Molland,  C.  E.,  152,  172,  176. 

Monkey  Temple,  228. 

Moore,  Paul,  362. 

Moore,  W.  T.,  10,  365. 

Moravian  Leper  Asylum,  317. 

Morris,  John,  281. 

Morrison,  Robert,  163,  168. 

Moslem  opposition  to  the  Gospel,  318 
Mosque  of  Omar,  317,  319. 

Mott,  J.  R.,  245,  264. 

Mount  Healthy,  9,  367. 

Mount  of  Olives,  326. 

Mungeli,  220. 

Murdock,  Dr.,  245. 

Murray,  William,  157. 

Museum  in  Gizeh,  304. 

Mutiny,  the  Sepoy,  205. 

“ My  Indian  Bird,”  199. 


382 


INDEX 


Nagasaki,  104. 

Nagasaki  Bay,  123. 

Nana  Sahib,  232. 

Nankin,  136,  172;  College,  174;  Treaty, 
169;  University,  152. 

Nara,  118. 

Narbadda,  226. 

Nations  about  the  Mediterranean,  328. 
Native  feast  in  Bilaspur,  a,  219. 

Need  the  Gospel:  all  do,  369. 

Neesima,  88,  115,  116. 

Nellore,  244. 

Nestorian  Monument,  166. 

Nevius,  Dr.,  154. 

New  Guinea,  41. 

New  Hebrides,  40. 

Ni,  Pastor,  127. 

Nicholson,  Gen.,  234. 

Nicomedia,  334. 

Night  in  a temple,  140. 

Nikko,  64,  65,  66. 

Nile,  the,  301,  306. 

North  African  Mission,  305. 

North  of  Japan,  63. 

Norway,  trip  to,  355 ; Norwegians,  357 ; 
religion  of,  356 ; peerless  listeners,  356. 

Oldham,  Miss,  93. 

Obookiah,  23,  26. 

"Oceana,”  47. 

Opium,  132,  171. 

Orphanage  in  Damoh,  221. 

Osaka,  117. 

“ Our  Position  and  Mission,”  277. 

Our  Young  Folks,  11. 

Outram,  Gen.,  234. 

IParis,  360. 

Pacific  Christian,  12. 

Palestine:  all  events  located,  323;  Expo- 
sition Fund,  320;  Jews  in  poor,  324; 
many  races  in,  325;  population  of,  326. 
Pappenburg,  123. 

“ Paradise  of  the  Pacific,”  37. 

Parker,  E.  W.,  250. 

Parsees,  242. 

Parthenon,  350. 

Passports,  63,  67. 

Paton,  Dr.,  40. 

Patriarch  of  Maronites,  311. 

Patterson,  Dr.,  322. 

Peacock  Throne,  the,  204,  236. 

Pearl  Mosque,  238. 

Peiho,  the,  154. 

Peking,  157 ; University,  155. 

Penang,  196. 

Perry,  Com.,  50,  54. 

Persecution  in  China,  166. 

Pharaoh,  299. 

Pharos,  the,  305. 

Place  of  Wailing,  319. 

Pnyx,  the,  350. 


Poona,  242,  243. 

Pope  and  Emperor,  168. 

Population  of  the  West,  14. 

Port  Said,  308. 

Post,  Dr.,  311. 

Portugal,  205;  Portuguese,  the,  102,  196. 
Preaching,  83,  134. 

Preachers  in  Norway,  356. 

Presbyterian  College,  78;  missionaries, 
311;  press,  128. 

Preussen,  the,  193. 

Princess  Ruth,  33. 

Prison,  117. 

Property  destroyed  in  Turkey,  339. 
Protestants  in  Japan,  99. 

Public  domain,  271. 

Pyramids,  the,  300,  301. 

Quarantine,  310. 

!Rajah  of  Tanjore,  213. 

Railways:  in  China,  154;  in  Japan,  51; 

in  Palestine,  314. 

Ramabai,  Pandita,  242. 

Rambo,  W.  E.,  221. 

Rameses,  299. 

Rangoon,  197. 

Raphael's  room,  352. 

Rapkin,  Geo.,  263. 

Rats  eaten  in  Canton,  164. 

Reception  in  Shanghai,  128. 

Reciprocity,  189. 

Red  Sea,  the,  296. 

Reid  College,  235. 

Reid,  Gilbert,  156. 

Religious  establishment  in  Jerusalem,  315. 
Republic  of  Formosa,  120. 

Residency,  the,  234. 

Results  of  missions,  370 
Review  of  the  Times,  the,  161,  175. 

Ricci,  Matteo,  167. 

Richard,  Timothy,  154,  156. 

Rioch,  Miss,  75,  93. 

Riot,  a,  150,  151. 

Ritualism,  318. 

Road  to  Peking,  155. 

Robert  College,  335,  347. 

Roberts,  Dr.,  160. 

Robinson,  Miss  Sue’s  grave,  226. 

Rome,  mostly  modem,  352 ; famous  build- 
ings in,  352. 

Rosetta  Stone,  304. 

Salt  Lake,  11,  14. 

Salvation  Army,  292,  314. 

Sandwich  Islands,  30. 

San  Francisco,  14,  17. 

Santa  Cruz,  12. 

Sargent,  Bishop,  247. 

Savage  Island,  40. 

Saw,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  119,  140,  146,  147, 
172,  175. 


INDEX 


383 


St  John's  College,  129,  240. 

St.  John  Lateran,  352. 

St.  Louis,  10,  11. 

St.  Peter’s,  352. 

St.  Sophia,  344. 

Schools  in  Alexandria,  305. 

School  in  Peking  for  the  blind,  157. 
Schools  in  Egypt,  382. 

Schools  in  India,  215. 

Schools  in  Japan,  85. 

School  of  Mines,  284. 

School  in  Nankin,  138. 

Schwartz,  C.  F.,  246,  313. 

Scott,  Miss,  79,  93. 

Seudder,  Dr.  H.  M.,  250. 

Scudder,  Dr.  John,  249. 

Sea  of  Japan,  69. 

Sea  of  Marmora,  331. 

Selby,  Isaac,  278. 

Self-support  in  Egypt,  303. 

Sepoy  Mutiny,  232. 

Serampore,  210. 

Services,  aboard  ship,  45,  293;  in  Bilas- 
pur,  219 ; in  Delhi,  237. 

Shakespeare,  quoted,  361. 

Shah  Jehan,  239. 

Shanghai,  123,  172 ; influence  of,  173. 
Shantung,  154. 

Sheffield,  Dr.,  159. 

Shinto  temple,  67. 

Shintoism,  89. 

Shishmanian,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  332,  335. 
Shiva,  emblems  of,  230 
Shogun,  the,  53,  115. 

Shonai,  70,  92. 

Siam,  196. 

Sicawei,  129. 

Sikandra,  238. 

Sistine  Chapel,  352. 

Singapore,  193. 

“Slowly,  slowly  go,”  143. 

Smith,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  G.  T.,  69,  90. 
Smither,  A.  C.,  12. 

Smith,  A.  D.,  263,  267. 

Smith,  Dr.  S.  F.,  252. 

Smyrna,  330. 

Socotra,  295. 

Southport,  365. 

South  Seas,  societies  in,  40. 

Southern  Cross,  264. 

Sphinx,  the,  301. 

Spies  in  Constantinople,  345. 

Spring,  E.  H.,  364. 

Squeezing,  73. 

Stanley,  Mr.,  155. 

Statistics,  of  Catholics  in  China,  168;  of 
work  in  India,  215. 

Stevens,  Dr.,  93. 

Stevens,  E.  S.,  75,  93. 

Stileman,  Lieut.,  36. 

Suez  Canal,  297. 

Sultan  of  Johore’s  palace,  195. 

Sunday,  none  in  the  pagan  world,  59. 


Sunday-schools,  in  Japan,  57 ; and  wo- 
man’s meetings,  84. 

Superstitions  in  China,  135. 

Sydney,  270. 

Sydney  Harbor,  272. 

Syrian  Christians,  212;  Protestant  Col- 
lege, 311. 

Syria,  stations  in,  311. 

Swan,  Dr.  J.  M.,  120,  162,  164. 
Switzerland,  353. 

Taj  Mahal,  204,  238. 

Talitha  Kumi,  317. 

Talking  with  the  people,  87. 

Tanjore,  246. 

Taoism,  166. 

Tartars,  186. 

Taylor,  J.  Hudson,  124. 

Tea,  184. 

Tea  houses,  134. 

Tel-El-Kebir,  299. 

Temperance  meeting,  275. 

Temple  area,  319. 

Temples  in  Nankin,  141;  in  Southern 
India,  246. 

Thaddeus,  23. 

Thoburn,  Bishop,  249. 

Tlioburn,  Miss,  235. 

Thomas,  the  Apostle,  166. 

Thompson,  Miss,  225. 

Tibet,  153. 

Tientsin,  154,  159;  treaty  of,  169. 

Timour,  204. 

Tinnevelly,  247,  251. 

Todd,  E.  M.,  366. 

Tokyo,  93,  112. 

Tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  304. 

Trampling  on  the  Cross,  101,  105. 
Triehinopoly,  246. 

Troas,  331. 

Tsungming,  131. 

Tungcliau,  135. 

Tung-eho,  159. 

Turk,  the,  a leech,  346;  a savage,  344; 
in  Europe,  344. 

Turkish  missions,  336;  first  baptism,  336; 
tracts  in,  336. 

Turkish  government,  326,  327. 

Turkish  officials,  332;  misrule,  334;  oppo- 
sition to  missions,  332. 

Tyre,  328. 

United  Presbyterians,  301,  302,  311. 
Unley  Church,  266. 

Utah,  12. 

'Valentine,  Dr.,  238. 

Vancouver,  George,  30. 

Vatican,  the,  352. 

Verbeek,  Dr.,  80,  97. 

Verco,  Dr.,  269,  287. 

Versey,  J.  II.,  365. 


384 


INDEX 


Victoria  Bible  School,  276. 

Victoria  Missionary  Conference,  275. 
Visiting  the  fields  expedient,  375. 

'W aldenses,  the,  353. 

Wallace,  Lew,  testimony  of,  340. 

Ware,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  123,  131,  172,  176. 
Warren,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  282. 

Washburn,  Dr.,  247. 

Watchmen  in  China,  135. 

Watson,  Dr.,  302. 

Wedding  feast,  a,  141. 

Weedon,  W.  C.,  29,  37,  43. 

Well  of  the  Ear-ring,  229. 

Well  of  Knowledge,  229. 

West,  the,  13. 

West  London  Tabernacle,  361. 

Western  men  in  the  East,  372. 
Whangpoo  River,  123. 

Wharton,  Mr.,  224,  254. 

Whateley,  Miss,  303. 

Wheelbarrows,  133. 

Wheeler,  Dr.,  316. 

Wheeler,  Gen.,  232. 

White,  J.  C.,  209. 

Whittier  quoted,  234. 


Wilder,  R.  P.,  243. 

Williams,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  E.  T.,  139,  140, 
172,  175,  176. 

Williams’,  Came  Loos,  memorial,  172. 
Women  and  the  Gospel,  374;  in  heathen 
lands,  374;  in  Egypt,  300;  inferior, 
325;  in  Japan,  88. 

Woosung,  131. 

Workers  needed,  373. 

World’s  Student  Christian  Federation, 
264. 

Wu,  Empress,  166. 

Wuchang,  148. 

Wuhu,  152,  173. 


^Xavier,  Francis,  101,  167,  196,  212,  213. 

^Vangtsze,  the,  123. 

Yokohama,  49,  90,  113. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.,  99. 

Yu-Ho-Tsz,  144,  173,  175. 

Ziegenbalg,  213. 

Zoan,  299. 

Zoological  Gardens,  281. 


